A Thai Christmas & New Year

December 2019 - January 2020
Simon & Jackie’s 5 week trip taking in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Ayuthaya, Ko Lanta & beyond. Read more
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  • Day 12

    Day 11 - Heading South for Christmas

    December 21, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Dragged ourselves out of bed at 9.00am & I popped next door for 2 Americano Frappes. There is no such thing, so I ordered a hot & an iced Americano. We sat on our balcony & had some dry doughnuts with our coffee.

    It was boiling hot already so we returned to our air conditioned room to stay cool whilst we packed. At 11.50am we checked out of our Homestay & laden down with our rucksacks we ventured out into the midday sun.

    Luckily we only had to walk 400 metres to our van pick-up point & we had an hour and a half to get there. Halfway we stopped for a beer. At 1.10pm we arrived at the van pick-up point & got mobbed by Tuk Tuk 🛺 drivers. After explaining we had a pre-booked van, they herded us to a waiting van. It turned out to be a 9 seater luxury van & we were the only 2 passengers scheduled to travel on it, so we departed immediately. Not bad for just 300 Baht each, particularly when the driver had to pay 140 Baht at a toll!

    We were soon heading south towards Makkasan Station in Bangkok on the Super Highway. During the journey we explained to our driver that we were heading for Hua Lampthong Railway Station. He told us that he couldn’t take us, but we could get a taxi. Thank you, we hadn’t thought of that!

    As we made our through the outskirts of Bangkok, our driver suddenly pulled over at the side of the road outside a petrol station & said you pay 50 Baht toll. We didn’t really know what was going on, but a taxi pulled up behind & we jumped in.

    Ten minutes later we were delivered right outside Hua Lampthong Station for just 100 Baht & the 50 Baht toll. After Jackie had picked up our tickets from an office across the road, we set up camp in a Black Canyon Coffee cafe, where we treated ourselves to a sandwich, a croissant & a coffee.

    At 4.35pm we boarded our night train for the 15 hour journey down to Trang in the south of Thailand. We had a First Class sleeper cabin that resembled a prison cell, a grey metal box that contained a seat that doubled up as 2 bunk beds, a sink with a bar of soap & a floppy table. The toilet was a hole in the ground at the end of the carriage.

    We sorted all our bits & pieces out, then with less than 15 minutes to departure, Jackie shouted “Oh shit, they didn’t give me my passport back in the ticket office”. With a volley of expletives, to the effect she had better run back to get it & Jackie saying she didn’t have time, she frantically rummaged through her document folder & found it.

    Our hearts were still racing at ten to the dozen as our train pulled out of the station at 5.06pm. We settled back for the long haul, but at 7.20pm, the steward insisted on making up our beds. We finished our bottle of Hong Thong, ate our crisps & lay down on our beds.
    It was a jerky old train ride & at gone 2.00am, I was still awake.

    Song of the Day - Night Train by The Kills.
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  • Day 13

    Day 12 - Lanta Happy Hills Resort

    December 22, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I had a fitful night sleep of about 2 hours, Jackie had not much more. We had a scare at 5.00am, when the train stopped & loads of passengers got off, but it wasn’t our stop.

    At 7.00am we were forced out of bed by the steward insisting he come in turn the beds back to a seat. At 8.30am we pulled into Trang Railway Station & went to a travel agent opposite to arrange our onward travels. We purchased 2 tickets for the 9.30am mini van departing from
    Trang Bus Terminal costing just 350 Baht each.

    We left our rucksacks with the ladies in the travel agent & went in search of breakfast. We ended up in the same ‘1952 Cafe’ that we visited in similar circumstances about 10 years ago. We ordered coffee & a baguette each.

    Returning to the travel agent, we boarded a Tuk Tuk to take us to Trang Bus Terminal. Before we departed, the girls insisted on taking a photo of us in the back of the Tuk Tuk, whilst Jackie held their company sign!

    The Tuk Tuk delivered us to the Ko Lanta bound mini van & checked us in....all part of the service. Not long after 9.30am we departed in a virtually full mini van for the 2.5 plus hour drive, which included a ferry ride. It was an uncomfortable ride, particularly as we were tired.

    Not long after midday, we were dropped off at our Christmas destination, Lanta Happy Hills Resort. The girl who greeted us was so lovely & provided us with lots of useful information. She didn’t actually tell us, but we suspected she & her family were Muslims......the hijabs & burkas gave it away!!!

    She kindly recommended Yawee Restaurant for lunch, which we soon discovered didn’t sell alcohol. Yawee Restaurant was very popular & we now know why, the food was excellent. I had chicken in coconut sauce & Jackie had a crispy chicken salad. There was water on the table, but we ordered a Diet Coke each, which didn’t actually arrive with our meal. When Jackie informed them, the waitress insisted we have them free. Probably put a bit of Hong Thong in them!

    After we walked the couple of minutes down to our local beach, Relax Beach. As we walked out on to the beach, the nearest bar owner shouted over to visit his bar. One of our pet hates!!! We walked along to the southern end & found a tiny sandy cove called Bamboo Beach for a swim.

    The afternoon ended with us visiting 2 bars for a beer in each, unfortunately the 2nd belonged to the shouty man & guess what it was the most expensive!

    We returned to our room, got ready & then went straight out for dinner to the sounds of the call to prayer at the local mosque. Tonight was the Mushroom Restaurant where I had a Penang Chicken curry & Jackie had chicken & cashew nuts, followed by a naughty banana pancake each.

    We were back on our balcony by 9pm. After failing to get the television working to watch the Man Utd game, we called it a night.

    Despite Booking.com showing that Lanta Happy Hills Resort is fully booked in the days after we are scheduled to check out, Jackie has already sweet-talked the young girl at reception in to letting us stay longer & (a big AND) letting us keep our room. It is in the prime location.

    Song of the Day - Slow Train to Dawn by The The.
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  • Day 14

    Day 13 - Toe Stubbing Agony

    December 23, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    At 9.00am, we donned our trainers & went out for a pre-breakfast jog. We run a little way along the road, then took a side road down to a beach.

    It was a eureka moment, when at the end of the road we discovered our idea of a perfect beach, a Palm Tree encircled sandy cove. It was actually the other half of Bamboo Beach we had been to the previous day.

    We ran along the Beach & headed home. Unfortunately with the tide in, we had to cross a small river. We could have just removed our trainers & paddled through it, but that would have been too easy. I wasn’t confident about jumping it, but Jackie was. Ladies first.

    It wasn’t pretty, she managed to get one foot wet on the takeoff & then land with both feet in the water, but worst still she tumbled forward on to all fours. Ending up in a similar position to someone I went fishing with!

    I was not so brave or stupid, so I took one shoe off & triple jumped it. We jogged and squelched home

    After a cold shower, there was a power cut for 8 hours we went out to Yawee Restaurant for coffee, mango & sticky rice, whilst Jackie had an enormous Club Sandwich. The food was excellent again.

    We then walked to our new found beach for some serious sun. We had a liquid lunch & more sun. Nothing could ruin the day.

    Around 4pm, Jackie asked if I would go back to the beach shack to get a bottle of water. Being the dutiful husband, I did without too much moaning, but less than 10 yards later, I kicked a buried chunk of dead coral. Flesh was hanging off the end of my middle toe of my left foot. There was blood everywhere & I was hopping around like a lunatic in absolute agony. I looked back at Jackie, only to discover she was openly laughing at me. She insisted on taking me down to the sea to wash it & presumably get attacked by a shark.

    When the pain finally subsided a little, about 2 hours later, I put on my flip flops & limped home. I can’t walk in flip flops at the best of times!

    Back at our room, I pulled off my flip flop & hobbled to the shower leaving a trail of blood in my wake. Brilliant, I am now going to be eaten alive by mosquitoes 🦟.

    That evening, I struggled out to the beach & we had spring rolls, green curry & Penang curry washed down with beer & wine to numb the pain. It was a very pleasant setting & ambiance, but the food wasn’t to the standard we have had in other restaurants on this trip.

    Song of the Day - Coral Fang by The Distillers.
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  • Day 15

    Day 14 - Santa Hat Selfies

    December 24, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Who’d be so cliche’d & immature!

    Today we were awoken by an enormous gecko in our room squawking. We got up & hired a scooter from our lovely lady. She found us the best available bike & gave us a couple of ill-fitting helmets.

    The plan was go for a recce further a field & spend the day on the beach at the southern end of the island where the Same Same But Different Restaurant was situated. We recall that the beach was nice, but more importantly the restaurant did the best chicken & cashew nuts we had ever had.

    We set off on the coast road heading south, when after about 10 miles we found a French bakery that took our fancy. We got off the scooter & went to open up the seat under which was my bag & all our money. Hunting high & low, we couldn’t work it out, but a little old lady came over & showed us that it was the button next to the ignition. She tried it several times but still it didn’t work.

    In the end we had to get back on the bike & return to Lanta Happy Hills where our lady opened in a second, it was the switch next to the ignition, but the ignition key had to be at a certain position. So easy when you know how!

    We drove back again on the quite frankly terrible roads & stopped at our intended stop. We had half a homemade fresh baguette & coffee. Lovely, but naughty.

    On we continued to where I thought Same Same was. Every hundred yards or so, Jackie would pipe up ‘You sure we’ve not just gone past it’. Another 10 miles down the road, we arrived at Mu Ko Lanta National Park, where I thought Same Same was. Now there was an entry fee, 420 Baht (over £10). We paid it & very soon realised I was wrong. We had been here before when it was free & in-fact went for a jungle trek that turned into a nightmare for Jackie. She wasn’t wearing the correct footwear and fell over. Luckily Jackie didn’t say I told you so about a thousand times or say that it was a waste of money.

    Mu Ko Lanta National Park is a jungle swarming with monkeys & has a decent beach. We sat on the nice sandy beach for about an hour to try & justify the entrance fee, then we left. This was only after monkeys had raided another couple’s belongings whilst they were swimming and then returned a second time & actually opened their bag & stole a 100 Baht note & their wet wipes.

    We returned to the scooter & as we did on our previous visit, Jackie had to walk up the hill as it was too steep for both of us on the scooter. When Jackie finally reached me at the top of the hill, she got back on & we headed back the way we came. We stopped at another beach, thinking it was the one, it wasn’t, but we had a beer.

    Same Same turned out to be another 1.4 miles up the road. We stopped & both ordered the chicken & cashew nuts. It was nice, but not as fantastic as we remembered.

    After spending the rest of the day on the beach we returned home, not before stopping to buy a Santa hat & some reindeer ears for a selfie. That night we went out for a curry, then sat on our balcony & managed to stay up, just, to see Christmas morning in.

    Note the beaches & restaurants were full of tourists wearing Christmas headwear & taking selfies. I wouldn’t be lying if it was more than 50%.

    Song of the Day - We’re Not The Same by Wolf Alice.
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  • Day 16

    Day 15 - S̄uk̄hs̄ạnt̒ wạn khris̄t̒mās̄

    December 25, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    No presents to open on Christmas Day. We had already exchanged cards last night & Jackie’s was embarrassingly much better than mine to her.

    No one was up at our Lanta Happy Hills so we didn’t have the opportunity to say Merry Christmas to any fellow guests. We had breakfast at Yawee, then hit the beach.

    We had a few beers at lunchtime, then returned home at sunset for a shower & did the rounds of Christmas wishes by WhatsApp video calls & messages.

    Our big Christmas dinner was Pad Thai & Fried Chicken with garlic on the beach & a little bit of Christmas cake brought from home. It was nice, but not the Roast Turkey & all the trimmings that Chris & Angela had kindly laid on for us before we left.

    Song of the Day - All I Want For Christmas Is A Real Good Tan by Kenny Chesney.
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  • Day 17

    Day 16 - Mistaken for a Thug

    December 26, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Breakfast consisted of juice, coffee, toasted ciabatta bread, eggs & a salad complete with raw onion! It was then back to our beach for another day of reading, swimming & snoozing with a couple of beers at lunchtime. The raw onion kept repeating.

    That evening we were craving a bit of western food, so we headed to Ni Restaurant that did Cheeseburgers. It was busy & they had a new waitress, which caused a kerfuffle when we asked for homemade chips with the cheeseburgers, instead of the French fries that normally came with them. We also ordered one portion of onion rings, which blew her mind. The manager had to come over & take our order.

    The burgers were just what we needed but a bit on the salty side even for Jackie & our onion rings didn’t materialise. Later the manager of Ni restaurant asked if I was doorman from Irish Embassy Club. Apparently I was the spitting image! Jackie said “You mean thug like?” & he laughed, but didn’t deny it. He gave us a free beer for not serving us the onion rings!

    Song of the Day - Thug 4 Life by 2Pac.
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  • Day 19

    Day 18 - Ditto

    December 28, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    For the 1st time, we tried out breakfast in the canteen of our Lanta Happy Hills Resort. Bloomin’ good it was too. We had a huge bowl of muesli & pancakes to share.

    We returned to our spot on Beautiful Beach & stayed there all day apart from going to the
    shack for a lunchtime beer. We even stayed for sunset on the same spot.

    That night we went all Italian, when in Rome...... I had gnocchi & Jackie had mushroom tagliatelle. We even finished with a Tiramisu, which Jackie confirmed she still hates. We would have had wine, but they started at £25 a bottle!

    The end of the evening was spent on the balcony with a Hong Thong & watching Christmas telly on YouTube.

    Song of the Day - Sunset by Nitin Sawhney.
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  • Day 19

    Day 17 - Same Same But NOT so Different

    December 28, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    This morning we started off by visiting a Vegan Coffee Shop. I had a Matcha 🍵, Banana 🍌 & Cacao Healthy Smoothie, which was delicious. Jackie had an iced latte.

    It was another morning in our same spot on the beach. We went to the only beach shack on the beach at lunchtime for a beer AND food - a Pad Thai & a pineapple fried rice.

    It was exceptionally hot in the afternoon & so we took shelter under a palm tree. We saw sunset at a beach bar with a beer.

    That evening we went to a restaurant recommended on TripAdvisor, Malina’s Kitchen. I was excited & chose a Tom Kah Coconut Soup with chicken & Jackie had a red curry. Mine was as described - coconut soup & Jackie’s red curry was not spicy or ‘chickeny’ enough for her. Certainly not our best meal.

    The meal was made all the more awkward / disappointing by an English bloke who was the partner of Malina, who insisted on chatting with all the diners. I put on my best ‘Resting Bitch Face’ or the male equivalent, but eventually he approached us. We heard his ‘story’ for about the 5th time & gave little away about ourselves. Despite this, he invited us to join him & his partner & the restaurant staff for a big night out on his birthday, New Years Eve. I think we were the 1st diners of the night not to be elsewhere on that date!!

    Song of the Day - Resting Bitch Face by Boy George & Culture Club.
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  • Day 20

    Day 19 - Only Bloody Elvis Again

    December 29, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today we hired a scooter again for a reconnaissance mission. We asked our lovely lady, Ling, & her husband if they could recommend anywhere around Khlong Nin Beach. They offered up two. One too expensive & hotelly for our taste. The other similar to Lanta Happy Hills.

    Our first stop of the day was Khlong Khong Beach, which Mr Chatty Man from Malina’s Kitchen had tipped us off as the best place to be on New Years Eve. The beach was not much to shout about, but apparently the bars were good. It is 2.5 miles from where we live.

    We then scooted on to Khlong Nin Beach, for another breakfast at the French Bakery. I was all teed up for my own baguette & honey, but apparently we needed to share a ham & Brie baguette. Before which we had driven up & down a few times & identified a few possible places for our next stay.

    We then sat on the beach, which was a bit windy. It didn’t have the vibe we were looking for & we felt slightly deflated. After long walks up & down the long beach we felt that maybe we should consider other options for our final week or so in Thailand. We decided to take an early lunch & reflect.

    Walking back along the beach looking for somewhere for lunch we were instantly drawn to a beach bar/restaurant called Soul Kitchen. It was possibly their speakers blasting out ‘I Don’t Like Mondays’, the decor & seating arrangements or the offer of Indian & Thai food. The music playlist was right up my street from bands such as Nirvana, Leonard Cohen, Tom Petty, The Jam etc etc. But the best bit was the food, Jackie inexplicably had French Fries, but I had a garlic dhal plate consisting of a garlic naan, a pot of dhal & a pot of raita. It was bloody gorgeous, in fact so much so that we did a complete u-turn & booked 5 nights accommodation just up the road whilst still eating our lunch. Just so we could come back every day!

    The afternoon was spent in comfort on a cushioned mat & with a triangular pillow at the front of Soul Kitchen listening to great tunes finished off with cocktails at happy hour.

    After returning home we popped out for dinner for red curry & chicken & cashew nuts. Perfectly pleasant, but we were already fantasising about what we were going to eat at Soul Kitchen.

    After we stopped in 7-11 for some provisions & I espied Elvis in a red suit eating an egg sandwich. I clearly not so discreetly pointed him out to Jackie, because he turned round & said to me “Yes, I’ve just finished a show”. At least he didn’t chase me down the street!! After
    I was kicking myself for not getting a photo, so I sneaked back in to the shop & covertly took a photo of his back.

    Song of the Day - I Don’t Like Mondays by The Boomtown Rats.
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  • Day 21

    Day 20 - Rude & Disrespectful

    December 30, 2019 in Thailand ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    We had breakfast at the canteen, we both ordered muesli & coffee. It was then back to Beautiful Beach to secure our usual spot.

    Our usual route took us down to Relax Bay Beach, then across to Bamboo Beach & on to Beautiful Beach. As we passed Bamboo Beach, we saw a western man in his 70s walking stark bo£&%ck naked along the sand & enter the sea. Now we are not prudes, but there is absolutely no need for that behaviour, there are signs everywhere requesting that people dress modestly, including no topless sunbathing, let alone bottomless.

    By the time we reached Beautiful Beach we were all hot & bothered, it was an exceptionally hot day, so we chose to sit under the palm trees. At lunchtime we went liquid at the beach shack.

    In the afternoon we returned to the palm trees 🌴, but before long we had been invaded by ants, our mats were crawling with them. We vacated back to the sand, unfortunately taking a lot of the little buggers with us. Not the relaxing afternoon we had envisioned.

    That night we took a beach stroll & used my phone to identify the really bright star that from our location shines directly below the moon & half way between the moon & the horizon. It was the planet Venus.

    We ended up in Yawee Restaurant for dinner, which doesn’t serve alcohol. We were really hungry, which was bad news, because we started ordering comfort food. I had fried chicken for starters & main. Jackie had fried prawns. After we had finished our 2nd starter arrived, vegetable spring rolls which were also fried. We left feeling a bit sick.

    Song of the Day - Venus by the feelers.
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