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  • Karen Cotton

Europe May 18

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  • Road Trip Day 3 - Tuscany

    22 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A relaxing drive in the Tuscan countryside are not the words I would use to describe today's journey. Graham is now officially an Italian driver. He was getting annoyed with a tourist who had the nerve to do the speed limit. To add to the excitement level we had a bit of rain as we were weaving our way down the highway,
    The countryside is spectacular; well I think so from what I could see when I was brave enough to look away from the road.
    Stopped in Cortona for morning tea (gelato) and a wander. Lots of middle aged men in lycra making the most of the hills.
    Then off to Siena for lunch, limoncello and a look at the town. They have an annual bare back horserace in the piazza which is madness. The cathedral here is spectacular - black and white striped marble. It took 150 years to build and I see why. We only planned to have lunch and a quick look at the town but before we knew it, it was 6.30pm and we still had a two hour drive to Calcinaia. Oh well, we are on Italian time. Once again eating at 10.30pm.
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  • Assissi to Poggioleone

    22 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Assissi is the prettiest town we have seen so far. It is medieval but as lots of tourists go there it is very well maintained. Lots of quaint shops. Stefano wanted to buy his monk a pair of leather sandals. People go to Assissi to pay homage to St Francis, the patron saint of animals and the environment, so I think he must have been a good guy.
    The highlight of our day, by far, was when Stefano decided it would be a good idea to stand Ernie on the wall above the fountain. That was mistake number one. Mistake number two was to turn his back. There was a splash and a scream and one wet Ernie. Ernie was crying but we couldn’t help ourselves and were in stitches. We are horrible people.
    Back into the car for some more mad Italian driving and off to Poggioleone for the night, which is on the border of Umbria and Tuscany. Once again the rain set in so off to a wine bar to wait for it to stop, which it didn’t. We had a wet Ernie for the second time today.
    Graham is up to over 1,200 photos.
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  • Road Trip Day 2

    21 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We spent the night at the Hotel of 100 Cats. At least I think that is what it is called. It was very remote but there were a lot of hikers passing through Monteluco on their pilgrimage from Rome to Assissi. It is very hilly. Good luck to them.
    After breakfast we wandered to the small monastery, where monks still live today. I’ve added a photo of a room that a monk had lived in, and they were still being used up until the 1960s. I’m not sure if the photo will show the size of the rooms but they are tiny.
    As the monastery is a place of reverence you have to whisper in there. Stefano made a donation to the monastery and then picked up a leaflet and said “Oh look Debbie, we can adopt a monk. I wonder if we will get to name him”. Debbie and I lost it and rushed out of the monastery as quick as we could. We headed down the hill and then laughed for about ten minutes. Strangely enough I think he is seriously considering it. He hasn’t stopped talking about it all day and wants to know if he will get an annual photo and update.
    Hopped in the car and headed off to Assissi. The Italians are mad drivers and Graham doesn’t need any encouragement to drive like them, but I think Stefano is providing it. The scenery was, like every day, spectacular. Every couple of minutes there is a little town on the hill and they have three things in common – at least one church, a castle and a great big wall around the town to keep out invaders. Our word of the day is “wow”.
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  • Road Trip Day 1

    20 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Let me start by saying you shouldn't let Graham and Stefano drive a mountain crossing together. More on that later.
    Had a last minute stroll (and gelato for Stefano/Ernie) before heading off on our road trip. As we headed into the mountains we witnessed first hand the devastation caused by the 2016 earthquake where 299 people died. Whole towns were completely decimated and left as a pile of rubble with the odd wall or two standing.
    We stopped for lunch in the town of Amatrice which was near the epicentre of the earthquake and where 234 lost their lives. It was like a war zone and so sad to see. After the original earthquake there were over 2,500 aftershocks so it must have been terrifying for those that survived.
    They are rebuilding the town and have created a centre where all the local restaurants were relocated to, so it is good to see there is still employment and business in the town. The restaurants were packed as people come from far and wide to eat the local pasta. It was worth the trip!
    We continued on our road trip and headed up to cross a mountain - at one point we were over 1,100 metres above sea level. On a positive note, the view was spectacular; all these beautiful towns sitting on the side of the hillside. Lots of postcard moments. On the downside, the drive was terrifying (well for Debbie and I anyway). Graham and Stefano thought they were driving Formula 1 race cars. The road was very thin and incredibly winding - I don't think the steering wheel was in the forward position very often and our poor little Yaris was getting thrown around the corners like our lives depended on it. Actually they did. I could see Deb holding on to the roof for dear life in the car in front.
    We stopped for a breather and the boys jumped out the car giggling and saying how much fun they had had. Yeah, right.
    Just as the sun was going down we arrived in Monteluco, which is of course situated up another winding hillside road above Spoleto. You would not want to drive these roads if you suffer motion sickness.
    There is a photo in the town with the snow capped mountains in the distance. In the foreground you can see Ernie running and Stefano chasing him. I have just noticed there are two photos featuring Ernie being chased by Stefano. This is pretty much our view all day.
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  • Family Time Ascoli Style

    19 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We are really lucky to be spending this part of the holiday with Stefano, Debbie and pocket rocket Ernie, and for Stefano to show us around his home town. We have learnt a lot about Stefano that we didn't know, seeing him on his home turf. For example.,he likes gelato. So much so that he (and Ernie) had four gelato each yesterday. Ernie has two speeds; stop and running. We have seen a lot of Stefano's back as he is always running after Ernie - maybe that's why he needs all that gelato.
    We were lucky enough to walk out of our hotel straight into the weekend market. I was very happy. Graham not so much. He just handed over his wallet and walked away.
    Stefano's parents had us over for an Italian feast. No one cooks like the Italians, do they. And to top off the fantastic food Ada (Stefano's mum) makes four different flavours of limoncello. It was really lovey meeting and spending some time with them. Even though we didn't speak the same language we worked it out.
    Headed back to the piazza for some people watching (and probably more gelato for Stefano and Ernie). Everyone was so dressed up I was sure they were going to a wedding but apparently that's what they do - dress up and walk laps. We saw a lady all dressed up in a suit and incredibly high stilettos riding a pushbike. Something you don't see every day.
    Met a few of Stefano's childhood friends and they are all characters. Ascoli is lovely and even though it has a population of around 50k it still feels like a small town. A small town with a lot of gelato stores and we have visited every one.
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  • Ascoli - Watch out the Cottons are Here

    18 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We managed to survive our castle visit without meeting the resident ghost. I tried to keep that bit of info from Graham (I didn't realise when I booked that is was haunted) but it was the main topic of discussion at breakfast so the secret was out. Lucky she must have been having a holiday. Headed up from Ascoli and had a fabulous lunch with Stefano's family. They are so lovely and Graham and Stefano's brother swapped police stories.
    Deb was lucky enough to go in the car with Graham to Ascoli and apparently he hit a pedestrian. He seemed pretty happy about it so I assume they were ok. I don't think I want to ask.
    Warning - bad language to follow.
    Stefano took us to a soccer match. It was so entertaining, on so many levels - you didn't know where to look. There were the cheap seats (where you don't get a seat) and all the diehard supporters were there, and then we must have been VIP cause we actually had a seat. The crowd were singing and chanting, setting of flares, jumping up and down for the whole match. "What are they singing Deb?" "Fuck off". "Oh that's nice."
    "What are they singing now?" "Still fuck off."
    So there seems to be a recurring theme.
    The Italian language is very beautiful and colourful. There are about fifty different words for whore and we heard most of them tonight.
    Anyway back to the soccer. It was such a spectacle; we weren't sure where to look. The riot police were called in to separate the fans after they had a bit of a punch up between the fence, There were punch ups on the field. Firemen were running around putting out the flares and our old mate in front of us who got very drunk and got his penis out to wave at the opposition fans. That'll tell them!
    Unfortunately the game was a nil all draw, so to make us feel better we had gelati at 11pm and pizza at midnight. As you do.
    Ernesto is keeping us all on our toes. He's such a character, but I think Ernie and Graham together spells trouble!
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  • Loreto Aprutino

    17 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This is the Italy we came to see!! Here we are staying in our castle suite like Lord & Lady Muck. I checked this morning how much we were paying a night - $220. Can't compare it to what you get in Perth for that price.
    Loreto Aprutino is a medieval town surrounded by olive groves and with other similar towns on nearby hills. Last night we had the best meal we have had by far - a six course Abruzzo (the area we are in) traditional feast. There was one guy in there doing it all - he was waiter, chef, the lot. But he was just cruising around with not a care in the world and every course was superb.
    Unfortunately a lot of the old town is in poor condition and there are a lot of properties for sale in this area. I've attached a photo of me outside the apartment we purchased for $50k.
    Walked into town and low and behold it was street market day. Here we go I thought. But time has stood still here and everything for sale was what you would imagine an old Italian momma wearing 40 years ago. I still managed to buy something :) . Now I understand why everyone was looking at me like I had two heads in my ripped jeans yesterday.
    Had street food Italian style for lunch today - pancetta rolls which we shared with one of the local stray cats. I think it had more than I did - although I didn't let it have any pork crackle!
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  • Castle on the Hill part 2

    16 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    More castle photos. Our room is huge! We have our own private sitting area outside of the room, as if we needed more chairs to sit on.
    There are also photos of the atrium dining room, whose roof is the full four stories of the castle.Baca selengkapnya

  • Castle on the Hill

    16 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Collected our hire car in Sorrento and drove across the Appenino Mountains to Lopreto Aprutino. Despite the signs warning of snow, deer, moose and even a bear (really?) our trip was uneventful, apart from the terrible drivers. If you are doing 20km over the limit you need to be in the slow lane.
    The scenery on the way was superb; lots of villages perched on the side of the hills. It was just like a postcard.
    We are staying at Castello Chiola; which dates back to 846AD but now is converted to a magnificent hotel sitting over the village. Photos show the view from the castle, which we can see from our room.
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  • Testing Waterproof Jackets - Positano

    15 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Woke up in Positano to a morning rain shower, but we wouldn’t let that deter us. Headed up the hill in our waterproof jackets to catch the bus to Amalfi. Halfway up the hill the heavens really opened. There was rain of biblical portions. The streets turned into a river. Cars were going by splashing us with water. You know how funny that is on tv, well it is not funny in real life. Our shoes, jeans, backpacks, face, in fact everything outside of the waterproof jacket was saturated. So A+ for the jacket.
    Went back to the room to change and regroup. Bought some umbrellas. Decided this time to try heading down the hill to the ferry to Amalfi. Much easier. Amalfi looked very pretty coming in from the ocean as you get a great view of all the homes and hotels up the hill.
    Caught the bus to Ravello, which is a lovely little town but very cold today. Not as touristy as others on the coast. Were going to do the 1,700 stair Ravello climb but as luck would have it the climb is to Ravello, not from Ravello, so we got to do the downhill version. Halfway down got lost, like we always do, so took the main road which winds around all the Amalfi Coast towns. Surprisingly we only passed two others walking this route, but were passed by many other tourists whizzing past in their coaches. There is no footpath, so we were on the road with all the cars and buses, squashed up against the wall as the buses screamed past. Or maybe that screaming was me.
    Graham did ask if I had seen a no pedestrian sign before we headed off. How would I know?
    Anyway we survived to tell the tale and eventually arrived in Amalfi just as it started to rain again. Celebrated making it alive by having gelato in the main town. There were four gelato stores directly opposite the one we were at. How do they all survive? There must be whole dynasties built around the gelato industry. Caught the ferry back to Positano in rough seas; one of my favourite activities – NOT.
    So now the rain has set in for the evening so we will have to sit in this restaurant overlooking the ocean drinking vino.
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  • Washing Day and Positano

    14 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Whenever we travel laundry day is always very entertaining, and today was no exception. We were sitting waiting for our wash to finish when a couple came in. They were looking at the instructions, looking at the machines, looking at the coin operated soap dispenser, back to the washing machine. They said something to Graham so he jumped up and asked where they were from and they were from Argentina and spoke Spanish. Not a word of English. And we, not a word of Spanish. So thanks to google translate Graham was able to show them what all the products on the soap dispenser where and how to use the machine. He hadn't quite finished when the next lot came in and started asking him in Italian how to use the machines. He was jumping from one to the other getting their powder and working the machines for them. He should have been paid by the laundromat commission.
    Wash finished, we left our new friends to work out the driers for themselves and caught a very expensive taxi to Positano. The views here are spectacular but unfortunately the weather is not. Our room has a balcony looking out onto the ocean - pretty special.
    Spent a lazy afternoon drinking limoncello and vino down by the waterfront and playing fetch with the owner's poodle. You would be disappointed if you came here for a sunbathing holiday as it is quite cold. Apparently next week will be warm (or so the locals keep telling us). We are rugged up like we are in Antarctica and people were swimming!
    Had a lovely dinner and a four piece roving Italian jazz band came and played for a while. They were so fabulous that we bought two of their cds. Look out everyone!!
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  • Ischia

    13 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Headed over to Ischia, the sister island of Capri. Much less crowded and bigger than Capri, we preferred it actually.
    Spent quite a few hours at Castello Aragonese, which was built on a rock off the mainland of Ischia in 474BC as a fortress. Has had many uses and upgrades since then. You'll see a photo of what looks like toilets, but when the nuns at the monastery died they would be propped up on these with a bucket underneath to decompose.
    Would have like to have gone to the thermal spas but ran out of time. Caught the last ferry home. Won the battle of the couple trying to push in front of the line (we won't mention their nationality). With a large backpack and elbows you can repel any attack.
    And once again we were eating after 9pm. This was our last night in Sorrento and we really enjoyed it and were sad to leave.
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  • Sorrento at Night

    12 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The best thing about Sorrento is the evenings. Restaurants, shopping, gelato until late at night. And then a homemade limoncello when we get back to the room.
    Went to a fantastic new pasta restaurant last night. Loved the food and also loved that we felt like we were in an episode of Fawlty Towers. Graham ordered a glass of white wine - out came a red. Sent it back - out came a glass of sparkling wine. Third time was a charm. Meals were delivered to the wrong table, meals weren't delivered. It was hilarious. But the food was amazing and free entertainment! And best of all - dessert pasta. Graham had chocolate spaghetti, I had mini canelloni filled with cream and the weeniest little strawberries you have ever seen. I wanted to lick the plate but hadn't had enough to drink. :)Baca selengkapnya

  • Herculaneum and a tour of Napoli Rail

    12 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After Pompeii we headed off the Herculaneum, which was hit but the same eruption as Pompeii but the inhabitants died from being burnt alive by the lava and volcanic ash.
    Caught the train to Herculaneum but missed our stop. No problem, we will get off the next stop. Except our train is now express. Finally got off. Crossed to the other platform and boarded the next train, which was heading in the same direction as the one we just got off. Got off another train and waited, and waited and waited and eventually a train came. We must have looked pathetic as an old Italian man with no English made sure we made it to the right stop this time.
    Herulaneum is smaller but much better preserved than Pompeii so you get a much better insight into how colourful their homes and businesses (there were many pubs) were.
    You are given a map and an audio guide. Follow the numbers 1, 2, 3 all easy and then it turned into a treasure hunt. Down one road back up the road you were on then backtrack back to where you just came from. They must have got bored after 3 and decided the next 38 will be allocated at random.
    The most interesting thing we learnt is we went to an ancient laundry and they used urine as bleach. So you send off your dirty clothes to be weed on.
    Today was a huge day. Got home at 7.30 pm just in time to get ready for dinner. Lucky the restaurants here don't close on Perth times!
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  • Pompeii

    12 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Toured Pompeii this morning. Our guide was sorting out free entry for under 18s and Graham put his hand up and said "I'm 16". "Sorry sir" she replied - "no senior discount". I lost it!
    Pompeii was incredibly interesting. It was buried under metres of volcanic ash in 79AD and then forgotten about until a farmer above fell down a well and discovered a city underneath. History lesson over.
    Really enjoyed seeing the fast food outlet, bar and of course the brothel, with the menu painted above the rooms. It is amazing to see what they were able to build, like the sauna room in the public baths with under floor heating. And not an engineer in sight.
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  • Mt Solaro, Capri

    11 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Whilst in Capri we caught the chairlift up Mt Solaro. There is a photo of me on the chairlift. That is not a smile, it is a look of sheer terror. Graham said the view was beautiful. I'll take his word. The gardens up the hill were a mix of vegetables, lemon trees, wildflowers and weeds all growing happily together and they really are lovely. That's the look we're going for at home.
    There's a photo of us at the top with nothing behind us. There would be a beautiful view behind us but we were in the clouds. Weirdest thing ever.
    We had read that you can hike back down the mountain to Ana Capri so thought that sounds nice. Found the stairs and headed off. After about a dozen stairs it becomes an incredibly steep track of mud, rocks and pebbles that only a mountain goat, serious hiker or us would attempt to walk down. How we didn't roll an ankle I don't know, and there were some muscle groups used today that have not been used for a very long time. But the view half way down over the bay (still with the odd cloud) was spectacular.
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  • Wildflowers of Capri

    11 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    So today Graham decided he liked taking photos of wildflowers.
    Here is a selection. I told him I'm going to enter him in the photo section of the Royal Show along with his chilli jam.
    Anyone who is invited to slide night of our holiday have been warned.Baca selengkapnya

  • Sorrento & Capri

    11 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We are staying in a lovely BnB in Sorrento slightly above (more hills) the town but ever so peaceful. It is lovely to wake up in the morning to the sound of the chickens clucking away at the back door, as opposed to waking up at my house to my girls screeching the house down for worms or to get let out. And to top it off they have five cats.
    Had a lovely seafood dinner at the marina last night. It is a very popular restaurant so they have chairs lined up in twos so you start standing at the back of the bus and eventually you move forward until you are in the front chairs and win the table lottery. It was a bit like a game of musical chairs and everyone was having a great laugh. The food was worth it.
    Headed over to Capri today. Caught the chairlift to Mt Solaro (will do a separate post) and then headed to Ana Capri for a wander around the smaller town. Caught the funicular down to the marina. We were packed in like sardines so couldn't see a thing. Capri was very busy in the towns and really touristy but out of the main towns was lovely.
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  • Captain Obvious

    10 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    An hour and a half in a train station feels like five.
    If you pack a big suitcase you are going to have to lift it up train steps.
    When the train attendant helps you with your case expect a dirty look if it's incredibly heavy.
    Sorrento is beautiful.
    If you book accommodation at the top of the hill you will be climbing an awful lot of stairs.
    Only the brave would drive in Italy. Or an idiot.
    The idiot has six days to learn the road rules.
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  • Ultimo Giorno a Roma

    9 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Our last day in Rome so we crammed in a tour of Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palantine Hill in the morning. Walked off last night's pasta. Roman history is fascinating (although I think the kids on our tour would disagree after 3 hours of it).
    Got lost again. Bought some leather bags. I know - you will all be shocked to hear that!
    Finally learnt how to use the crosswalks. Find a local and ghost them. If they run - you run.
    Went to a small underground archaelogical dig, where they have uncovered a house from the 1st century. Best kept secret in Rome - we had the place to ourselves.
    Finished with an evening catacomb tour. Unfortunately you can't take photos. The Capuchin Crypt is where the skeletal remains of 3,700 friars are stored. Not just stored - but used to make art work on the wall, a light fitting, some pretty decorations on the ceiling. If you were lucky you were left mumified and on display in one piece, rather than becoming part of a chandeliar. Catacomb Priscilla is where the local Christians were buried in the 2nd - 4th centuries and has the oldest known painting of Mary and Jesus. Tiny weeny, not much bigger than a postage stamp but interesting nonetheless.
    Still can't get over turning a corner and seeing ancient ruins.
    And so we say a sad goodbye to Rome. Our feet will never be the same.
    Sorrento here we come!
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  • Vatican and the second coming of Moses

    8 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    This morning we headed off to the Vatican. We thought if we do the very first morning tour it won't be so busy. Wrong. We both hated the Vatican Museum. Actually we didn't hate the Vatican Museum, we hated the pushing and shoving and feeling like we were in the Hunger Games. Luckily we survived and then headed to the Sistine Chapel, which was wonderful to see and then to St Peter's Basilica. I can't even describe how amazing it was, so I won't try. Headed down beneath the Basilica to see where past popes were buried, which was pretty interesting.
    We were going to climb the 500 plus stairs to the dome at the top of the Basilica but we were all peopled out by then so hightailed it off to wander the streets and get lost again. We have found some really interesting sites that aren't on the tourist map just by wandering around - today's find was the Supreme Court (photo attached), which Graham loved, guarded by a cute guard who winked at me, which I loved.
    And then the rain set in. Found a café for a wine to sit out the rain. The rain didn't stop, so Graham drank two bottles. Made a new best friend with an Ecuadorian waiter who spoke 2 words of English and next thing they are swapping family photos of their children. I think they may now be penpals.
    So the best thing that happened today was while we were having dinner at the same café we'd been in since 2pm (cause it was still raining!). A pair of young men came from the back of the restaurant with their Labrador puppy (dogs are allowed everywhere) and as they walked past a table the dog jumped up on the table and grabbed a lady's dinner off her plate and dropped it on the floor and ate it. The owner was mortified, and was trying to pull the dog away but it was not going until it had finished. Remember, Graham has by now drunk two bottles of wine and we all know how loud he laughs when he drinks (or even sober). He must have laughed for 10 minutes before I could shut him up.
    Walked home and there was police tape across the road and police everywhere, which had been there since earlier today, so we crossed the road with everyone else, only to realise we were WITHIN the taped off area and had just walked through a crime scene.
    It is still raining heavily and I wouldn't be surprised to see a pair of giraffes going past our window.
    Today's lesson:
    If you are at a pedestrian crossing and see a police car coming don't assume they will stop for you. They won't.
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  • The day Graham tried to kill me

    7 Mei 2018, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Ooh where to start. How about the touristy bits. Started the day at the Campo de Fiori markets. Not very large but they had some amazing produce on sale. Tiny weeny little strawberries, pasta in every colour of the rainbow and of course limoncello and oil.
    Went to the Trevi Fountain with 5000 of our closest friends to watch the man scrub off pigeon shit. Then we followed our 5000 friends up to the Spanish Steps. We decided to leave our new found friends and wandered up the hill to Villa Borghese Gardens.
    Some idiot decided the two person bike would be a fun way to get around the 80 hectares. The problem was a) only one side had a working steering wheel b) only one side had a brake and c) the side with the steering wheel and brake was not my side.
    So off we headed, full of enthusiasm and ready for an adventure. Ride along and next thing we come to a roundabout on a main road and Graham would like to cross this main road. Karen would not. But Karen does not have control of the brake or the steering wheel so is a hostage on a bike. He had one go at getting across but cars were wizzing up the hill so fast that Graham had a better idea. Let's get a run up. So next thing we are crossing a main road with me frantically turning my steering wheel to no affect. In fact I spent the whole hour frantically turning my steering wheel to no affect, because after this Graham had got a bit of courage and decided not only would we cross a main road, lets go up and down a few hills in the traffic, with cars coming at us from all directions and my steering wheel getting a workout. There were a number of times I had to shout at him to stop as we were about to be hit by an oncoming car. And you can only imagine how popular we were on our stupid two person bike hogging the lane.
    And that, people, is the story of how my husband tried to kill me.
    We are loving our flat - it is so quiet but then you open the door to see a 50 person tour pass by. The photo of all the people in the alleyway is the 10am tour going past.
    The lesson of today:
    Graham is a shit navigator and once again walked me for an hour in the wrong direction.
    We can't get over how much you can see and do in Rome for free. Every day is tight ass Tuesday.
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