Kenny’s Aussie Adventures 2021

What a last day! Margret River was pumping, I’ve always said “when there are more people watching then surfing........ it is getting serious”!
We arrived early and I was hesitant about going out but I wanted to show the boys that I could do it. I suited up, grabbed the 6’1 DHD and hit the channel. It was a very long and nervous paddle out with what seemed like mountains of water pushing through. I hit the lineup and realised I was very under gunned, the 8 to 10 guys in the water had 9 foot plus boards and helmets, half were even wearing life vests which I thought would have been a great idea 😂 .
I was proud of myself for being out there, but I was there to catch waves. It was a cat and mouse game trying get onto the waves without copping a flogging. There was a lot of water moving and the wind was blowing off shore but as it hit the wave face it seemed to amplify creating chop and making the waves very difficult to paddle into. After many attempts, I finally paddled into a wave and it was incredible! The waves had so much power and I was ecstatic. I paddled back out ready for another but instead I got caught inside a BOM! And took a beating I will never forget, just as I was coming up it just ripped me down again, but I kept my cool and finally surfaced. It was strange, but I felt more exited I had survived a monster than actually catching and surfing the wave. I also realised I could manage a beating. I paddled out again and it took a while but I got 3 more waves relatively unscathed.
When I returned to the shore I had a sense of achievement and I received many nods from spectators, I think just paddling out there earned respect.
I had a great week at Margs with 3-5 foot swell and off shore winds all week, it was great! But experiencing it at 8 foot plus was an epic finale 😎.Leer más