Camino

April - June 2023
France to Spain pilgrimage Read more
  • 58footprints
  • 3countries
  • 47days
  • 422photos
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  • 12.5kkilometers
  • 11.7kkilometers
  • Day 40

    Day 41 Santiago (Photos)

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 23 °C
  • Day 40

    Day 41 Santiago (written)

    June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    We made it! Arrived in Santiago at 1:00 pm after a steady, pleasant 5-hour walk. The past few nights I’ve been wide awake at about 2:00 am, then read a bit before falling asleep again, usually by 3:30. The 6:00 alarm wakes me up to prepare for the day’s walk. At 2:00 am last night the thunder, lightning, and torrential rain was so loud and severe that I wondered if anyone would even attempt to walk through it. But, at 7:00 am, the rain had subsided, and the skies, once again started to open up.
    By 9:00, the sun was coming out, and despite the large crowds, especially with pilgrims joining us from other routes, there was a quiet sense of peace and purpose among all of us. One criticism the Camino has acquired these past few years, is that it is becoming too commercialized, and certainly there are shops everywhere selling tourists trinkets, but it was easy for us to avoid them. The first part of today’s walk was puddly, muddy as we navigated through the dense eucalyptus trees. Even though it was raining the lingering rain water from the night before prompted some to wear raincoats. As we got closer to Santiago, looking for the cathedral, the asphalt path was welcoming as we took our time to savour these last few steps of our journey.
    I had expected the Cathedral to be evident from a distance, but that was not the case. We went up and down through the city before eventually reaching Praza Obradoiro Cathedral among the hundreds of pilgrims who were there with us. We were grateful we had reached our destination, free from injury, unlike many others. After a half hour of savouring our accomplishment with others around us, we tracked down our hotel, showered, napped, then went back to the Cathedral square to get our Compostela, the certificate that goes to those who have completed the journey. We had been told that there may be as much as a three- hour lineup to get it, but we had ours in 20 minutes. After that, we toured the Cathedral, Cathy lit a few candles, then we returned to our hotel, just before, true to form, we evaded another thunder and lightning storm.
    As I ponder the lessons from this journey, there is the challenge of trying to find the specific words that accurately reflect my feelings, bearing in mind that these journeys are highly personal, and that what one person gets out of it is not the same as another. In fact, that’s the beauty of this experience-we can tailor it to our own needs. Many of those who have come multiple times have indicated that the allure of this trip is the peace and calm it leaves you with afterwards, while others others have commented on the fact that it’s impossible to explain it to someone who hasn’t been here. From my perspective, any journey requires taking a first step, often the most difficult one to take. For those os us who are on the Camino, the first step was taken at whatever point we decided to start. However, at that point, the journey only really starts. Continuing that journey requires stamina and there is a new word associated with that challenge that I’ve learned from this experience- “Ultreia.” Ultreia, derived from the Latin word “ultra,” meaning “beyond” or “farther “ is a rallying cry for the pilgrims. The journey may require you to push yourself beyond what what you thought you could do, it may require you to seek help along the way from other pilgrims, or it may require you to adapt your journey to suit your reality. At the end, it is a spiritual journey in the sense that it challenges the power of the human spirit. Also, the power of journey lies in the stories and experiences we have shared and continue to share with one another, without moralizing or judging, recognizing that everyone’s journey has merit. And we do not need to be in Spain to experience that.
    Today, we are planning to visit Santiago, taking in the museums and history this city has to offer. Ten minutes ago, Cathy looked outside and commented,”It looks like a beautiful day.” Five seconds ago, she said, “It’s pouring out there, now what are we going to do?” Ultreia!
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  • Day 39

    Day 40. Pedrouzo (Written)

    June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    The operative word for today is “mud.” For the first time since I’ve been here, over a month, we had to deal with rain all day. At first, it was just a drizzle, but there were a number of downpours, prompting many people to run for cover. As a result, much of the walk required having our heads down, evading puddles and slick muddy terrain. Luckily, it was not too cold, but my raincoat did not breathe well, so when we finished at 2:00pm I was drenched from perspiration. We walked about 20 km from Santiago, so it all ends tomorrow.
    The wet weather and cloudy skies were great for self reflection; even those travelling in groups were quiet and mechanical. Cathy and I usually start off walking together but I generally move on at a faster pace for two hours, then I stop at a café where I wait for her to catch up, then we meet to have coffee or water together. Then the cycle begins again for the next two hours. Cathy met up with Sandy and Diane, the other Kathy and Laurel again today, while I chatted with a couple, Adele and Mark, from Coquitlam, BC who have a son presently working in Whitehorse as a geologist, but will be in Yellowknife this summer exploring for lithium. Adele and Mark shared an umbrella, so while one was uncover the other was getting drenched.
    Much of our talk these last few days have focused on getting together in Santiago with the friends we have made along the way. Some of us plan to bus or walk to Finisterre, 90 km further, taking us to the ocean. At this point we plan on staying in Santiago two nights, then leave for Porto, Portugal on the afternoon of the 10th, but that is still subject to change.
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  • Day 38

    Day 39.

    June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today’s section of the Camino was a 29.5 km walk from Plalas de Rai , through a town called Melide, eventually to Arzúa. Our hottest day so far with temperatures reaching 29 degrees made the occasional gentle breeze inviting and the shaded trees momentary stays against heat exhaustion. Yellowknifers can adapt to cold weather much better than excessive heat. It seems the night before each walk we get a weather report forecasting a 70% chance of rain, but the rain does not come until after 3:00 pm, after we’ve finished our walk, then we get a big downpour lasting 1-2 hours. Last night, we also had prolonged thunderstorms and lightning.
    We were on the trail by 7:30 again this morning with large groups everywhere, but they eased off in the afternoon. There are some towns and many villages along this route catering to pilgrims, so I suspect many of them did not go as far as we did today. Cathy and I started off together, but I moved on, momentarily connecting with Jim from New Zealand and Sandy from Arizona. Cathy chatted with Diane from San Diego for a while, then Sandy joined them. The longest conversation I had today was with Moises from Florida, but originally from Cuba. He shared interesting stories of attempts to defect from Cuba, time spent in forced - labour camps, and two years spent in Spain while awaiting his acceptance to the US. He values freedom above all else, and despite not liking Trump, Moises supports him. At that point, I thought it best not to push the political talk too much further.
    The Spanish province that we are now hiking through, Galicia, has Celtic origins, so the music, especially the bagpipes are similar to Celtic traditions. We were treated to a bagpiper and a drummer on today’s walk including some of the pilgrims who danced along. Despite the long distance, today’s walk was generally enjoyable and scenic. We reached our destination by 3:30, then showered, had a short nap, then headed out to explore the town and find a place to eat.
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  • Day 37

    Day 38. Palas del Rei

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The operative word for this morning’s walk was “fog,” a heavy fog that lingered for three hours. Our 7::00 am breakfast was two blocks away from the “pension “ we stayed at last night, so we left from the cafe at 7:40 with Jim from New Zealand. Today’s 25 km trek had us going through a variety of terrain, climbing 400 m for the first 15 km, then descending 100 m to Palas del Rei. Once again, we were presented with two options: the longer, more scenic route or the shorter one along the highway. We chose the former.
    I spent a bit of time with the guy who lost his wife five years ago while on the Camino, and his spirit has improved measurably the last few days. The medication he is taking for ankle pain is working, and he is much more positive; in fact, he commented, “ I can’t see how anybody could see this Camino as anything but a positive experience.” He continues to talk about his wife, and how much he misses her, but he’s generally happy, sharing jokes, and getting stronger. I, also, connected with Tony, an Australian fireman, who began planning this trip immediately after seeing “The Way.” Tony revealed that 12 years ago he was diagnosed with prostate cancer and had robotic laparoscopic surgery, just like I did 16 years ago. He has also been dealing, more recently, with seizures. I also met Michelle from Germany and Dubrogo from Croatia, chatting with them for over an hour.
    Cathy and I just returned from a 6:00 pm dinner where we had the unfortunate encounter with two Canadians from Toronto who came up against bedbugs ( the female did but not the guy) , so Cathy is now in full-blown alert for bedbugs, researching them on the Internet and checking every nook and cranny in our bedroom. Cathy does have ONE bite from last night’s stay, has scrutinized it thoroughly, comparing it with the 55 or bites on this other lady, nervously wondering if we may have had a bedbug visitor.
    As we near the end of our Camino, many of us are making plans to reconnect in Santiago with people who have shared their journey with us in open, honest, and meaningful ways. We’re already sensing that while we’ll have a sense of accomplishment, there will be much sadness as we go our different ways.
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  • Day 37

    Day 38 Palas del Rei (Photos)

    June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C