• Brad and Mandy Pearce
Jul – Sep 2017

Three months in Europe

A 88-day adventure by Brad and Mandy Pearce Read more
  • Ancient fortress
    The rock???Walkway to the craterView from topWaterfall...... and again!

    Iceland - Day 3

    August 5, 2017 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - North West Iceland - Borgarnes
    Weather - cloudy, about 18°C
    Distance - 430km
    Steps - 11500 or 7.3km and 54 storeys

    Mainly a driving day today getting us from central Northern Iceland to the North East. We didn't do a great deal of sightseeing, saw an ancient rock fortress; a rock sticking out of the ocean; another volcano crater; and, of course, another waterfall (did I mention that there are plenty of waterfalls in Iceland)

    The fortress was at the end of a dirt road, great view from the top, then onto the rock, again along a dirt road. I'm sure there was some story about the rock but don't really have a clue - we probably could have missed this one, especially because I had to endure Brad's whinging about travelling on the rough roads. The volcano crater meant climbing lots of steps (again) but at least it was a easy staircase.

    (I'm running a few days behind in my blog so the next few entries may be posted all at once when we get back to Germany- leave on the car ferry in the morning and won't really have WiFi until Sunday)
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  • Boat sculpture
    CathedralCairns in front of the Harpa building (theatre/arts centre)The grassy knoll - don't know what the building isOn or whale watching tourIcelandic ponies

    Iceland - Day 4 - Reykjavik

    August 6, 2017 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - South West Iceland - the Capital Reykjavik
    Weather - fine, max 18°C
    Distance - 200km
    Steps - 15250 or 9.7km and 16 storeys

    Today we visited the capital of Iceland - Reykjavik. We were really only interested in visiting a couple of sights and decided to go on a whale watching cruise. The cruise was abit of a fizzer - did see a couple of minke whales which the guide became overly enthusiastic about - but we had a nice chat to an American couple that made the time quite pleasant.

    When we came back we walked to the cathedral - met up with a girl from Sydney who was travelling solo, about to embark on an Intrepid tour of Iceland. She was horrified at how expensive Iceland is (citing $50 for a lobster sandwich - and she is not far wrong). Anyway, the cathedral is pretty impressive from the outside. We could not go in because there was a concert going on. Finally we took a photo of the boat sculpture and made our way to the night's accommodation. We were supposed to go to the Blue Lagoon but as we had not booked a ticket we decided to give this a miss. Our accommodation was at a horse stud and we got the photos of Icelandic ponies but did not go for a ride (Brad is not so keen on horses)
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  • Mandy behind the waterfall
    Another shotGeysir eruptingNational park area - walkway down large fissureView from topGullfoss waterfall

    Iceland - Day 5 - Waterfall and Geysirs

    August 7, 2017 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - South West Iceland
    Weather - fine
    Distance - 280km
    Steps - 19500 or 12.4km and 52 storeys

    A great day today. First we visited a national park which was where there first parliament was held - no buildings but it was where the rocks had large fissures and were moving apart. Some perry views from the top.

    Next we went to the original Geysir- after which all other geysirs are named. This one erupts every 5 minutes or so, sometimes only 2m , sometimes 30- 40 metres. After that was Iceland's most famous waterfall Gullfoss which we viewed from top and bottom . Very nice waterfall but the highlight of the day was the waterfall known as Seljalandsfoss which is a waterfall you can walk behind. Got a bit wet and the path climbing back up was quite rocky and slippery but it was very pretty!
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  • Cute puffin
    Don't they look like they have a nose mask onThe waterfall - note the people climbing steps to the sideGoing down much easierIceberg lagoonA small chunk of ice

    Iceland - Day 6 - Puffins and Icebergs

    August 8, 2017 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Southern Iceland
    Weather - Cool, no rain
    Distance - 310km
    Steps - 14600 or 9.5km and 56 storeys

    Ok, today was another great day... even if it did start with another waterfall. For some reason they decide we need to view a waterfall from both the top and the bottom so they build a staircase to climb and Brad's philosophy is we have come all this way so we are going to see what is up there. So 407 steps later (I know, because I counted them), we arrived at the top and there was another pretty waterfall so it was probably worth it.

    We drove to to an area with bird nesting cliffs, hoping to see some puffins and to our delight we saw lots. Really cute fat bodied birds with short little wings that flap really fast when they are flying. They must get exhausted.... perhaps that is why they are called puffins...hahaha!

    We skipped driving to see glaciers as we have already seen them before and moved onto a glacier lagoon - fantastic sight! Great icebergs floating in a lake and there were even seals swimming around. This capped off another great day.
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  • Strange line of mist
    Black sand beachGlacier from a distanceUnusual lichen covered lava rocks

    Iceland - Day 7 - The last day

    August 11, 2017 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - South East Iceland
    Weather - Still wearing warm clothes - this is summer?

    Or last full day in Iceland was not a particular scenic day. We came across the unusual sight of a line of mist rising from the sea. Not sure what it was... perhaps it was an area were there was volcanic activity and the water was warm meeting the cold air. Saw some black sand beaches where I commented that I would hate to walk across that in bare feet in the middle of summer and then I realised we were in the middle of summer and you are more likely to suffer frostbite than burn your tootie-toes. Took a photo of the massive glacier that covers a large area of SE Iceland. There were also some unusual landscapes with lichen covered lava rocks that covered huge areas. Very strange. So that's about it for Iceland as we leave on the ferry the next morning for Denmark (2 days) and then making our way to France to make our way across to England (another 2 days)

    As we don't have any photos for these travelling days, l shall record our enjoyment (NOT!) of the past few days in this footprint. First the ferry crossing. On the way over the crossing was really smooth so we foolishly did not pack any motion sickness tablets with us. The first day/night was OK but when we got up for breakfast we decided Nope! No food! Managed half a sandwich at lunchtime then spent the next 8 hours having a close relationship with the bathroom. NOT FUN!

    Then we had about a 5 hour drive from Denmark to Hamburg in Germany. First it rained pretty much all the way through Denmark, then in Germany there were the crazy no speed limit drivers. They really put you on edge. Made it to Hamburg ok - the next day we were driving to Belgium (near Bruges) about 700km. Now the autobahns work ok, however there is roadworks been done on them every 20km or so. This creates huge bottlenecks as 3 lanes are merged into 2. In one place close to the Dutch border they had closed off a road completely and we could not understand the detour directions and ended up going around in circles twice. Other people were equally confused. In the end we drove to a different area with the GPS going nuts at us (in 100m turn right; when possible do a
    u-turn ...blah, blah ,blah). Anyway, we got there and we were glad to be not driving in Germany anymore.
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  • Menin gate
    Wreaths line the stepsThe lions on loan from the Australian War MemorialInside the gate - names engraved on every surfaceAn Australian wreath

    Belgium - Ypres

    August 14, 2017 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Ypres, Belgium
    Weather - nice

    We have been underestimating not so much the distance but more the time it takes to get from point A to point B, mainly due to the sheer volume of traffic on the roads (and the amount of roadworks, but the funny thing is, we never actually see any work being done? ). Brad thought we would have time to visit Bruges the afternoon that we arrived in Belgium but I thought we would be pushing it so we have put that off until we come back into France from the UK. So we booked a 2pm ferry from Dunkirk giving us time in the morning to head for Ypres, an area of the Western Front where Australian soldiers fought (and died) during WW1.

    The Menin Gate was where the troops passed through to go to the front, and it now stands as a memorial to all the soldiers that died in that area. There are over 54,000 names on the gate with over 9,000 of these being Australian. The statues of lions were originally in front of the Menin Gate and were gifted to the Australian War Memorial in 1936 and they are currently on loan from Australia as it is the centenary of the Ypres Salient Battle.

    We also visited In Flanders Fields Museum which contains a lot of artifacts in the area and they are still finding them today. It was very interesting but Brad did not seem to take any photos.

    Only a 45 minute drive to Dunkirk to catch the ferry (so we thought) but the traffic was horrendous and Brad is panicking thinking we were going to miss the ferry. We got to Dunkirk OK but finding the port was like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Tiny little signs indicating 'Car ferry' - not great big street signs like we expected. It will be good to get to England where at least we will understand the road signs. However, we found the ferry in plenty of time so all is well. Next stop...England!
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  • White cliffs of Dover- Hello England
    Bletchley Park mansionThe Bombe (replica) - the Enigma decoderOffice inside mansionThe Major Oak in Sherwood ForestRobin Hood and Little John fighting on bridge

    Welcome to England

    August 15, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Bletchley Park
    Weather - sunny 25°C
    Steps - 11250 or 7km

    The 2 hour ferry crossing and to see the white cliffs of Dover was amazing- they really are spectacular. Even though the steering wheel is on the wrong side (for this country) the actual driving is strangely familiar . We drove to the Cambridge area which was a bit slower than anticipated (traffic heading north out of London) and stayed in a little country village - just lovely.

    We had decided to visit Bletchley Park, which, if you have seen The Imitation Game movie about the code breakers during WWII you will know what I'm talking about. Very interesting- we did a free guided talk which added some fascinating tidbits of information. We only spent a few hours there but could have stayed all day. However, we had to get to York by evening (about 4 hours drive).

    On the way we passed through Nottingham so bad to check out Sherwood Forest on the way. The Major Oak (perhaps the one where Robin Hood hung out?) was an impressive 1,150 year old tree. The branches are being supported by props.

    All in all, a very nice day.
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  • Walking around the walls at York
    York Minster in the backgroundClifford towerStephenson's Rocket (replica)Brad beside a Chinese locomotive- look at the size of itFlying Scotsman

    York

    August 16, 2017 in England ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - York
    Weather - fine
    Distance - 16400 step or 10.4km and 35 floors

    Had a great Airbnb in the little village called Upper Poppleton (doesn't that sound delightful!) which was located just outside York. It was easier to use the Park and Ride system which seems quite common in many places in Europe. Park your car and catch the bus into the city - saves congestion and you don't have to worry about finding a park.

    York is a beautiful city and the original part is surrounded by (most of it) an old stone wall. One of the touristy things to do is to walk the wall and it was such a nice day that it was a very enjoyable activity. It's about 5km and takes around 2 hours (plenty of steps). There are sections where the wall no longer exists but that just gives you the opportunity to visit other things.

    Our host recommended we visit the National Railway Museum and that was quite interesting. It had a replica of Stevenson's Rocket as well as The Flying Scotsman - both engines I had heard about. After walking the wall we visited the York Castle Museum which had a section looking at fashion through the ages and the reason why some styles came in and out of fashion. For example, back when men and women wore wigs, the wealthy and more important had larger wigs, hence the term 'Big Wig'. They used to powder them heavily to make them white but when the government put a tax on powder, wigs went out of fashion. It was all fascinating.

    We could have spent more time in York but we had to be in Edinburgh for the Tattoo the next day so drove from York, seemed to take ages and practicallt rained all the way. A lovely Scottish summer day!
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  • Looking down the Royal Mile
    Edinburgh Castle wall with parade ground in frontLooking back to the Roal Box seating (red seats)About to fire the 1 o'clock cannonView over EdinburghInside the castle is more like a village

    The Scottish Capital - Edinburgh

    August 17, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Edinburgh
    Weather - warm and windy - no rain☺
    Steps - 10,500 or 6.7km and 37 floors

    After driving to Edinburgh in mostly rain, we were pleasantly surprised to wake to a fine, sunny morning. We had to go into the city to collect our tickets for the Edinburgh Military Tattoo that we had purchased at least 6 months prior. While there we did a tour of the Edinburgh Castle. We joined a guided tour which is usually great because there are often some fascinating bits of information that you may not get otherwise. There is a tradition that is still carried out at Edinburgh Castle that they fire the 1 o'clock cannon. The original purpose of this was so that all the ships in the harbour could synchronise their clocks as they knew the cannon was fired at 1pm.

    Super busy in Edinburgh because it is festival season - not only the Military Tattoo but also the Edinburgh Fringe Festival with people busking, putting on various performances, dressed up mimes etc. The place was a hive of activity. I think the number of visitors to the castle every day was around 10,000 - 12,000. We didn't have time to see anything more than the castle as we had to get ready for the Tattoo which I will cover in a separate footprint.
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  • Edinburgh Military Tattoo

    August 17, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We have always wanted to watch the Tattoo after watching it on TV for years and years (usually around Christmas time) so when we were planning this trip we booked our tickets about 8 months ago. To make it a little special we thought we would splurge a little and have the Amber package which included a 4 course meal plus good seats to watch the Tattoo. However, when Brad booked it with the travel agent he did not realise there was the standard Amber package and there was the super duper Amber package which had all this plus a souvenir plus wine, plus whisky, plus a seat in the Royal box for the best views for the performance (...plus extra $). Anyway, what was done, was done, and I must say it was worth every cent.

    So we had to get dressed in our glad rags because we were sitting in the Royal box and you never know who we might be sitting next to. (Actually, Prince William and Kate were in Edinburgh the previous day and guests at the place we were staying at saw them in town). The meal we had was excellent and we were then escorted to our seats where we were even provided with a blanket. The weather was fine which was a bonus because it has been raining a lot this summer.

    The performance itself was excellent, the precision marching, drummers and bagpipes, Highland dancers plus special performances from India and Japan and representations of all the Scottish Clans and a reenactment of the Jacobite Rebellion . The time went so quickly that we were sorry it was over. I'm sure the photos do not do it justice. I would certainly recommend this to anyone.
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  • Dundee
    Discovery - Scott of the Antarctic shipOnboardScott's cabinStonehaven clifftop walkAnd again...shame about the rain

    Edinburgh to Inverness

    August 18, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Dundee and Stonehaven
    Weather - rain
    Steps - 10500 or 6.7km and 37 floors

    Basically a driving day as we left Edinburgh and made our way to Inverness. We called into Dundee to go to the exhibition on the sailing ship Discovery that Capt. Scott used to explore Antarctica. It was quite a good exhibit and I found out some interesting bits of information which may come in handy if I ever get a trivia question about it.

    Moving on from there we drove to Stonehaven to do a cliff walk where birds nested. Ordinarily this would have been lovely but it was drizzling rain and while I had my jacket on, I foolishly decided not to put on the waterproof pants. I didn't realise the track had tall grass and was somewhat muddy underfoot and by the time we got back my pants were saturated. There were heaps of birds though and the area was pretty despite the rain.

    Rained all the way to Inverness where it suddenly stopped and the sun came out. Inverness looks very nice but we were not staying here, but a bit further out of town where the Airbnb's are a bit cheaper (expensive around Loch Ness country where we had tomorrow.
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  • Urquhart Castle
    Urquhart Castle from another angleThere's Nessie! Apparently I missed herOminous hills shrouded in mist. Purple stuff is heatherInveraray castle (as seen from the road)Looking back at Inveraray (near our overnight accommodation)

    Lochs and Highlands

    August 19, 2017 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Loch Ness to Loch Lomand
    Weather - some showers

    Getting a bit behind in my blogging so the next few entries may be a bit brief.

    Today was an interesting day, from Lochs to the Scottish Highlands, and there is no doubt that that this part of Scotland is both beautiful and dramatic.

    We started early with a visit to the Loch Ness Exhibition Centre... in search of the elusive Loch Ness monster. It offered many theories on whether the sea monster does or does not exist (and in all likelihood all the supposed sightings can be explained) but I doubt you would convince the 1000 odd people who claim to have seen Nessie.

    After that it was just a short drive to Urquhart Castle, right on the shore of Loch Ness. A beautiful location and Brad was convinced he saw Nessie pop her head up (hahaha! ). It was quite interesting about the history of the castle which is well over 1000 years old.

    Continued down along the Lochs to Fort William and then, as it was on the way, we thought we would have a look at Skyfall (the house from the James Bond movie). It was down a bit of a a goat track, single lane only, and when we got there I think it was the place but quite a lot of movie magic has occurred so I'm not really sure. This is in the area of Loch Lomand where the hills/ mountains are massive and spectacular.

    Scotland is known for their Highland Cows (insert Scottish accent and say 'Heilan coos') and we did see a couple which would have made a lovely photo but unfortunately there was no where to pull over and take a picture.

    We leave Scotland tomorrow to catch the ferry to Northern Ireland for a few days before returning to Scotland/Wales/England again.
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  • Carrickfergus Castle
    The Gobbins walkGobbins walk - end of the trailView from Torr Head...and looking the other directionThe Dark Hedges

    The Coastal Route, Northern Ireland

    August 21, 2017 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Larne to Ballymoney
    Weather - some showers
    Steps - 14800 or 9.5km and 91 floors

    So we are now in beautiful Northern Ireland after a 2 hour ferry crossing from Scotland. We had planned to visit The Gobbins in the afternoon (a walk around the base of the cliffs), however when we turned up we were told the guided tours are totally booked out until 30th August....at 3pm. Well that was no good to us and a lesson learned - if you want to see something it pays to book in advance. When we arrived at our Airbnb accommodation we told the host of our disappointment who mentioned he happened to know the owner (lived just a few houses away) and the next thing we know he has organised a time for us to go the next day. (These hosts were really wonderful people - we actually felt like old friends)

    The next morning we had a few hours to kill before our Gobbins tour so checked out Carrickfergus Castle, a 900 year old castle that was still in use in some form up until WWII - now just used as a tourist attraction. From there the Gobbins tour was enjoyable - even if the trek back up to the road was quite steep. Towards the end of our walk the misty rain started to come in and I'm sure it would have been miserable for the next groups that were starting the walk.

    After that we took a leisurely drive up along the Coastal Route - very scenic - until we got to Torr Head where the road turned into a one lane goat track with either stone walls or fuchsia hedges lining the road, plus, as we got higher in elevation we drove into the misty rain which further hampered our view. Another steep hill to climb but at least it had stopped raining.

    Finally we passed by The Dark Hedges, a strange avenue where the trees appear somewhat twisted. I think it has been used in The Games of Thrones (not sure as I don't watch the series - but a lot of filming was done in Northern Ireland ). Overall it was a busy day, but very enjoyable.
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  • Carrick-a-Rede
    Crossing the bridgeGiants CausewayLooking downPart of the long climb back upView from Giants Causeway walk

    Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede

    August 22, 2017 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Coastal Route Northern Ireland
    Weather - fine
    Steps - almost 19,000 or 12km and a massive 101 floors

    Finishing off our journey along the Coastal route of Northern Ireland saw us taking in the sights of Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge and the well known Giants Causeway. We thought that each place would only require about an hour to explore each place... but we were Oh so wrong! Even though they are only a few miles apart, the crowds meant we had to purchase a ticket and wait for our time slot to cross the bridge, and also for the Giants Causeway we really found it difficult to find a park.

    Both places also required a lot of walking including a lot of steps, hence the 101 floor equivalent we climbed today. However, despite all this, the scenic beauty was magnificent and well worth the effort (even if I did lose my balance on the causeway steps and ended up in a little puddle, hurting only my pride). Some of these places are also used in the filming of Game of Thrones, but as I don't watch this show, I'm not really sure.

    It started raining so we decided to give Londonderry a miss and headed to our accommodation. Heading towards Belfast in the morning.
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  • The Titanic exhibition building
    Belfast gates - locked dailyMural of Civil Rights leadersInside Crumlin Road GaolBelfast CastleBelfast Castle gardens

    Ships and Walls, Prisons and Castles

    August 24, 2017 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Belfast, Capital of Northern Ireland
    Weather - fine
    Steps - 12700 or 8km and 11 floors

    We did not know very much about Belfast but after our visit we found out some rather surprising things. We knew the Titanic was built in Belfast and consequently they built a whole exhibition around it which really draws in the crowds. It is a rather impressive building and the display was quite good.

    We took a Black Taxi tour around the Belfast murals. We were aware of the "troubles " that existed in Northern Ireland and particularly Belfast in the past but did not realise that there still exists a wall that separates the Loyalists (those that support the British flag - Protestant), from the Catholics , and the gates are locked every day at 7.30pm (3.30pm on Sunday). It is this wall that has murals on it that are ever changing depending on what they want to emphasise at the time. For example there is a mural depicting Civil Rights leaders such as Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King.
    The troubles still exist, although not in the sense of the IRA (Catholics) killing Loyalists (Protestants) and vice versa; but more in gangs and drug related problems.

    The next day we visited Crumlin Road Gaol which was still in operation up until about 20 years ago and it was a very interesting tour about what it would have been like to be imprisoned here. When it went out of service as a prison, it was reopened as a tourist attraction by some former inmates (one of whom was the First Minister - like a Premier).

    We had time to look around the gardens of Belfast Castle before catching the ferry back to Scotland and onto the southern area of the UK.
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  • Lakes District - nice colours
    Lakes district- a large rock propped up on its edgeCardiff - overlooking Mermaid QuayDr Who - the TARDIS film set (as I remember it)Remember this car driven by the 3rd Dr (Jon Pertwee)Part of Cardiff Castle

    The Lakes District to Cardiff

    August 27, 2017 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Scotland to Wales via The Lakes District
    Weather - wet and dry

    We arrived back in Scotland and stayed overnight in a quirky little village called Wigtown which is known as Scotlands book town and there were bookshops everywhere (and not much else). From there we drove through the Lakes District which is a very pretty area and we would have enjoyed it except for 2 things. First, the weather was pretty lousy and misty rain spoilt the views. Secondly, we struck the August Bank Holiday long weekend and every man and his dog had left London to spend it camping, hiking etc. Combine this with the atrociously narrow roads and it really was not a pleasant experience. To top it off, there was nowhere to just pull over and take a photo and any parking places were controlled by the National Trust and there were parking fees (usually around £3). Consequently there were not many photos taken in this area.

    The following day we headed to the capital of Wales - Cardiff. We had a great time in Cardiff, partly because the weather was glorious, but mostly because our Airbnb hosts were the loveliest couple and we all got on like a house on fire. Back in Cardiff we visited the Dr Who Experience (Cardiff is where Dr Who is filmed). It was pretty good but they concentrated mainly on the more recent Doctors, not the ones I remember from my childhood like Tom Baker and Jon Pertwee. We didn't do Cardiff Castle but we did go to the Cardiff museum. We are finding that one activity a day is probably enough - two at the most. Must be getting old!

    The next couple of days are spent in the Devon / Cornwall region of South West England.
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  • View over Port Isaac
    Port IsaacThe Doc's houseCheck out this chocolate box cottage in the village we syayed in

    Cornwall and Devon - Part 1

    August 28, 2017 in England ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - South West England
    Weather - beautiful

    After leaving Cardiff we drove south, basing ourselves in a small village in Devon while we explored the coastal area of Cornwall. The first place was Port Isaac which many people would recognise as Port Wenn from Doc Martin TV series. An absolutely stunning day and the place looked magnificent (even if it was seething with people - still the long weekend )

    We also stopped by Tintagel where some of Poldark was filmed (not sure as never watched the show) and also possibly the site of King Arthur's Castle??? This is after driving down some insanely narrow roads where you have to edge your way past oncoming traffic. I think the GPS thinks it is funny to take on all these "short cuts".

    I've got to tell you about our Airbnb accommodation. The village was tiny with a few houses and shops around a market square. One pub where we had dinner was entertaining. The locals turn up with an assortment of dogs that just lie around (except for a young springer spaniel that ran around like a mad thing). One lady had a pair of bunny rabbits on leads. Our host was lovely- around 70 and looked 50 and her husband was 80 and still worked as a pharmacist. We had a fantastic time here.
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  • Land's End signpost
    Some of the rocky coastline at Land's EndMount St Michael - low tideAbout to get wet feetLooking down on the gardens from the castleThe causeway from the castle

    Land's End and St Michael's Mount

    August 29, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Cornwall (SW England)
    Weather - Started with rain but fine afternoon
    Steps - 15600 or 10km and 48 floors

    Our second day in the Cornwall area and we headed to Land's End, the bottom tip of England. As we approached Penzance the traffic slowed to almost a halt. We reckon it is because the weekend saw Penzance trying to break the record for the most pirates to gather in one place (Pirates of Penzance - get it!). Apparently the record is 17,000 pirates and they fell short of this by about 23 pirates. Can you imagine almost 17,000 people dressed as Capt. Hook or Capt. Jack Sparrow etc. with hook hands, peg-legs, eye patches and parrots wandering the streets and saying Ahrrrr! So the traffic was probably the pirates leaving and the locals returning to their homes. This may not be the reason but it seems plausible to me.

    So we arrived at Land's End- nice area and we took the usual photos. If you wanted to wait in a queue and pay £ you could get your photo taken under the signpost with your hometown and distance displayed. We didn't bother! After Land's End we headed to St Michael's Mount near Penzance. There is an almost identical Mont St Michel in France which we intend to visit later. St Michael's Mount is a castle (that is still occupied) located on a rocky sea mountain that is accessed by a causeway at low tide or by boat when the sea covers the route. When we crossed we had to remove shoes and socks as the middle section was still covered by about 6 inches of water.

    It was quite a hike to visit the castle, up steep rocky steps but the views were worth it. There was not a great deal of information in the castle about what we were looking at, but I suppose if you have seen one castle, you've seen them all. Overall it was a good day. We really enjoyed our time in Cornwall but now we had back towards Dover.
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  • Portsmouth to Dover

    August 31, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Southern England
    Weather - can't remember, some rain, some sun

    Leaving Devon we drove to Portsmouth where Brad wanted to see HMS Victory which is still commissioned by the Royal Navy and was Admiral Nelson's flagship. The audio commentary took us through what it would have been like to serve on this ship and also the last moments and was killed at the Battle of Waterloo by the French. Nelson did not want to be buried at sea as most people at battle were, so his body was placed in a barrel of brandy (or it may have been rum - cant remember the details) to be transported back to England. Not sure where he is buried but they made a statue of him and stuck him on a pillar in the middle of Trafalgar Square.

    We stayed at Chichester, visiting Arundel Castle which was a pleasant couple of hours but Brad forgot to bring the camera so we don't have any photos. I did take some on my phone but they are not that good. Arundel Castle had lovely gardens and expensive furnishings (dozens od Chippendale chairs, elaborate Wedgewood dining sets etc) and there is still a family living in one wing of the castle.

    The next day we headed to Dover where we walked around the top of the White Cliffs of Dover before boarding the ferry to Dunkirk. Goodbye England, Hello France!
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  • Various views of Bruges
    Market squareMadonna and Child sculpture

    In Bruges

    September 2, 2017 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Bruges, Belgium
    Weather - fine

    We arrived in France and drove to Belgium specifically to see the city of Bruges. Up until a few years ago I had never heard of Bruges until we saw a couple of movies. One of those - In Bruges - was a rather black comedy about a hitman who was sent to do a job in Bruges when really he was the hit and the boss wanted him to experience a good time before he was knocked off. The other movie was 'The Monument Men' where art historians were commissioned to recover artworks stolen by Hitler during WWII. One of those artworks was a sculpture by Michaelangelo called Madonna and Child which was stolen from the cathedral in Bruges and was discovered hidden in a saltmine in Germany. The sculpture was returned to the cathedral in Bruges and apparently it is the only sculpture of Michaelangelo's that is displayed outside of Italy.

    So, apart from the sculpture, Bruges is a very attractive city (not sure if it is big enough to be called a city). There are waterways that run through the city and the best way to explore was on a short boat cruise (half an hour). Many buildings are around 500 years old. It was a very pleasant day.

    We had another fantastic host and it was sad to say goodbye. The next day we start to explore France.
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  • War memorial at Villers Bretonneux
    Commemorated in 1938 there a bullet holes from WWIIGrave attended by soldiers grandson 99 years to the dayThe ladder stair to the loft in our cottage

    Battlefields of France

    September 3, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Normandy Region of France
    Weather - mixture, some showers, some sun

    Leaving Belgium we headed to France and have spent the next few days in Brad's element - visiting the area where significant war time battles were held. It is not really high on my list of interests but I must admit I have a greater understanding of what happened here during WWII.

    Before we went to Normandy, we drove to Villers Bretonneux - a village in northern France that was totally devastated during WWI - and has special ties to Australia because Australian soldiers stopped a counter attack by the Germans (with significant loss of life.) Apparently, most of the soldiers came from Victoria and when the returned they asked all the schoolchildren to donate a penny to go towards rebuilding the school in Villers Bretonneux. They raised around £12,000 (a lot of money back then) and to this day the school is called The Victoria School and the sign above the school says " Never Forget Australia". There is a Franco-Australian Museum in the town (where the school is ) and just outside the town is the war memorial located on the site where the battle was fought. It is hard to believe that 100 years ago (next year, coincidentally on 25th April), the surrounding land was battle scarred when to look at it today it is peaceful farmland.

    We are staying for 3 nights in a little old fisherman's cottage in the town of Ouisterham (pronounced Wee Strum). We have the place to ourselves which is good for a change, even if it is a rather odd little place on three levels with narrow spiral stairs to the 2nd level and a kind of step ladder stair to the bedroom. Very quirky but it was fine for exploring the Normandy area.
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  • Pegasus Bridge
    Point du HocPoint du Hoc shell cratersStatue at Omaha beachAmerican war cemeteryParatrooper caught on the church tower (effigy) at Sainte-Marie-Eglise

    D-day beaches

    September 5, 2017 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Pegasus Bridge and Normandy beaches
    Weather - fine

    This was Brad's day, visiting the war related sites he has read, and watched movies and documentaries about. First we visited Pegasus Bridge where British glider bourne troops were the first troops to see action on D-day and they had to capture the bridges crossing the Orne River and hold them intact so that the allies coming from the beaches could cross. It was an incredible feat of flying in WWII as troops landed pnly 50m from the bridge and captured in in a matter of minutes. A replacement bridge now crosses the river and the original forms part of the museum outlining the events that occurred in that area. The original was too narrow to cope with modern day traffic, but the replacement looks much the same.

    From there we headed to Point du Hoc which was an area overlooking Omaha and Utah beaches and was occupied by the Germans with large guns. The job of the American Rangers was to capture and disable the guns so that the American troops could land on the beaches without being fired upon (D-day, June 6, 1944). After heavy fighting and the Rangers had to scale the cliffs only to find the large guns they thought were there were actually tree trunks as the Germans had stored the guns as they were afraid they may have been destroyed by the shelling that was happening. As it turned out, the Rangers found the store of guns and managed to disable them by putting thermite grenades in that melted the firing breech. (See, look at how much I have learned about D-day)

    After some lunch overlooking Omaha beach, we went to the American War Cemetery - over 9000 graves of the American soldiers killed during the battle for Normandy. It is located above Omaha beach and all the headstones are arranged in perfectly straight lines , regardless of which direction you look at them. Beautifully maintained.

    We also visited the Airborne Museum which was to do with the 82nd and 101st airborne which landed inland of Utah and Omaha Beaches in the early hours of D-day. One of the paratroopers was entangled on the church tower and was lucky not to be killed by the Germans. They stll have an effigy of him hanging from the church tower in the town of Sainte-Marie-Eglise where the museum is. We did visit another museum, but frankly I have just about exhausted the amount of information I can take in about war and battles etc. that I cannot even remember what it was about.

    These activities were done over 2 days - next we move away from the battlefields and look at some things I am more interested in - next post.
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  • View of Mont Saint Michel
    Looking down at the causewayLow tide around the MountShops surrounding the AbbeyPart of Bayeux Tapestry

    Tapestries and Monasteries

    September 7, 2017 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Bayeux and Mont Saint Michel
    Weather - fine

    Finally we have a day doing things that I am more interested in. One of them was to have a look at the Bayeux Tapestry (in Bayeux of course). I remember hearing about this tapestry when I was in school - two things stuck in my mind: 1/ It was really long - it is almost 70 metres long and about 50cm wide, and 2/ Part of the embroidery (it is technically not a tapastry), depicts Halley's comet. That was about the extent of my knowledge so when we visited we were given an audio tour which outlined what each scene of the tapestry was about. So the Bayeux Tapestry is about William the Conquerer and the Battle of Hastings 1066 - Halley's comet supposedly made an appearance in 1066 just prior to the Battle of Hastings and was seen as a sign of William 's success. Both Brad and I found the exhibit interesting - couldn't take any photos so I have included a stock photo.

    The other place we visited was Mont Saint Michel which is practically a carbon copy of St Michael's Mount in Penzance (England) but it was more impressive in my opinion. We joined a guided tour regarding the history of the monastery and abbey and parts of the complex are undergoing renovation. Unlike the one in England, this one is uninhabited but it certainly serves as a great tourist attraction.

    So, we leave the Normandy area and head for the Loire Valley - place that has many Chateaux.
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  • Gypsy caravan
    Chateau de ChambordThe gardens viewed from aboveOne of the bedrooms

    Loire Valley

    September 8, 2017 in France ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - Chateau de Chambord
    Weather - can't remember - not raining

    We stayed in a place in the Loire Valley, where all the Chateaux are. I mention this because the host had a genuine gypsy caravan in her front yard that they had restored. (She rents it out too if there was a third person in the group). Very colourful!

    There are many Chateaux in the Loire Valley but we decided we would only visit one - Chateau de Chambord - mainly because of you have seen one chateau, you have seen them all. We also had to get to the accommodation in the Bordeaux area by 6pm as the host had to go to work.

    The chateau, like most of these large old buildings, rely on being open to the public to help pay for the upkeep on the property. This one had beautiful manicured gardens, a central double helix staircase, and enormous rooms that would have been almost impossible to heat. It was nice, but I think one was enough.

    We are deciding to slow things down a bit now as we have been on the go for two months now and can't keep up the pace. I got a bit of a sore throat but didn't really eventuate into anything much, but Brad got more of a heavy head cold and sinus making him feel a miserable. On top of that he desperately needed a haircut so he managed to get that as well as the necessary medications to make him feel a bit better. For the next little while at least, we shall just be doing scenic drives as we head to the Pyrennes.
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  • We stayed in a village just up the mountain from here
    One of the little villagesBrad near top of one of the mountain passes - note cyclistsLook closely - sheep on the hillsideComing down the other side - cyclist again

    Pyrennes

    September 10, 2017 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Snapshot
    Where - The Pyrennes National Park
    Weather - overcast

    We spent a couple of days travelling through the Pyrennes - some narrow, winding roads as we travel up into the snow line, through mountain passes. It was all quite exciting really.

    We really didn't go anywhere in particular, just visited some of the little villages nestled high in the mountains. We stayed in one of these villages overnight where the church bells rang every hour (fortunately they stopped at about 9pm - starting again at 7am). You begin to wonder what the people do in these little villages?

    One mountain pass rose to around 2400m and near the top there was a man shouting instructions to his dog who was busy rounding up sheep. Look closely at one of the snow pictures. There were also crazy people riding pushbikes up. Indeed, this is one of the notorious mountain passes that frequently is used in the Tour de France. Not my idea of fun.

    After the Pyrennes our intention was to travel along the French Riviera (Monaco, Nice etc.) and then into Italy to Florence, Venice etc., however the thought of negotiating our way through city traffic is just too stressful that we have changed our minds and are now going to go through Switzerland. Besides, we figured the Italian cities and French Riviera could be picked up on a cruise ( now that sounds like a good excuse to go on another cruise, doesn't it)
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