Italy and Egypt 2022

September - October 2022
We will spend 2 weeks in Italy - Rome, Venice and Bologna - before joining friends in Cairo for a tour of
Egyptian wonders and a boat trip down the Nile. On the way home we will spend a few days in Kuala Lumpur.
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  • Getting ready to leave tomorrow!

    September 21, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I’m just setting up the blog to get started tomorrow when we fly off to Rome! So excited. Nothing to say yet, but packing up and all systems go. We’ll be in Italy till October 10 when we fly to Cairo and meet our friends for the Egyptian segment….first a 10 day tour - a couple of days seeing sights in Cairo, then we fly down to Aswan and see many amazing temples and structures as we float down the Nile to Luxor. Then we will spend several more days not on an organised tour when we will be free to do and see things with the help of Amr and his sister Omnia…Should all be wonderful!Read more

  • Day 2

    We are in Rome!

    September 23, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After the usual 24 hour travelling we are now in Rome, and SO happy. The flights weren’t actually too bad, specially the second long 11 hour one as we had all 3 seats beside the window and could spread out. Arrived about 8am to a beautiful cloudless autumn day, even pleasantly cool. Painless passport procedure - just put through machine, bag out quickly and on to the train.

    Our hotel is in via Cavour, close to Termini the central train station, and we got there about 10. Friendly place on the 4th floor of a building, and we left our bags as too early for the room, and set off wandering. It was just lovely as we wandered the familiar streets. And not as desperately crowded as I have sometimes remembered. Found our way to the Pantheon and had a coffee in our favourite caffe nearby - perfect of course and invigorating, and we also indulged with cannoli. Wended back to the hotel via the Trevi fountain, piazza Barberini and Quattro Fontane as we were ready to shed some of the clothes we have worn for more than a day…

    Now in the room and it is exactly what we love. Spotless and perfect, and we will try and book for the 2 nights when we return to Rome before flying to Cairo. Am delighted to see that quite a few people have already found this blog without me sending a link!!

    We will set off again soon, but suspect that when we return after an early-ish dinner will be too spaced to write any more. Just wanted to check in now that we have arrived in Italy!! Yay!
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  • Day 2

    Next Rome report

    September 23, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    It’s now 4 pm Saturday, and we are back in our room having a little break. So I’ll write up about yesterday afternoon and evening, and this morning as again tonight I think I will be ready for bed. Already I have been falling asleep just now….I think yesterday we were pumping adrenaline, but today has been a bit slower…

    After settling into the hotel we set off again, spotting more famous Roman sights. Along via Sistina to the church Trinita dei Monti at the top of the Spanish Steps, along via Condotti and the Corso, found the Campo di Fiori by a rather circuitous route and then wended back to the Piazza Venezia to our favourite bar and had a drink watching the chaos of traffic and people….perfect!

    Walked back, rather tired by then, but decided to have dinner at our very favourite restaurant, where Amr first discovered in 1982, and where have been on every visit to Rome. Last visit to Italy was 2011, but the waiter - who is one of the brothers who own it - remembered us (Amr actually, everyone recognises Amr!!) and we felt royally welcome. We showed him photos of us there, and with him, over the years! Lovely food as usual - grilled radicchio, salad, pasta and grilled calves liver, followed by tiramisu and with a half litre of house red. We were revived after that.

    But quite an early night - in bed by 9.30 and slept fairly well. Breakfast in hotel - perfectly fine, but Italian pastries don’t match French ones (now I am being picky)…had a hot chocolate there, as was saving my coffee experience for the best coffee shop near the pantheon - La Tazza d’oro. So we set off to conquer Rome again, but this morning have to admit was feeling rather spaced. First we walked down Cavour and up a huge staircase to St Pietro in Vincoli where there is the magnificent Michelangelo sculpture of Moses. Then we continued down, past the Colosseum and lots of wonderful rubble on our way to the coffee shop…more pep after that and we continued on to Piazza Navona via a church St Louis dei Francesi where there is a wonderful Caravaggio painting - the calling of St Matthew.

    Ended up at the Campo di Fiori again which now was filled with markets (last night it was totally cleared, no sign of markets, just the restaurants round the edge) and lots of activity. Sat down for a little lunch to revive and give us strength to walk back here. It has been quite crowded today, quite busy dodging people and managing the cobbled roads. Realise it is Saturday, so lots of weekend visitors to Rome, and we’ve seen quite a lot of tour groups being guided along, and bicycle tours careering through the crowds!! We love it!
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  • Day 3

    Addendum to Saturday

    September 24, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Back from our post siesta outing, and will add it now so that we can be up to date, and not always starting with yesterday’s events! I have to say that I didn’t feel like going out , would rather have curled up and rested, but we knew the predictions for tomorrow and Monday are 100% rain and thunderstorms, so that gave some impetus for enjoying the pleasant weather while it lasted….

    So we set off, and in the spirit of the coming bad weather decided to walk to the Piazza del Popolo via Trinità dei Monti and the Spanish Steps. Fun as the passegiata time was starting, and lots of people walking and socialising. Went to the church in the piazza which has 2 Caravaggio paintings, but Saturday evening mass was on, so we will return another day. Sat in a bar to watch the passing parade - and with my Campari and Amr’s aperol came very generous nibbles, so we indulged and enjoyed and almost didn’t need any dinner. We finally set off back along the Corso joining the continuing passegiata to Victor Emmanuel and along past the Trajan forum to via Cavour where we did stop for a light dinner - salads, and now back and ready to crash…hope weather warnings are exaggerated!
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  • Day 4

    Another busy Roman day

    September 25, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I feel that this blog is rather more mundane than Camino days - I seem to just report on walking round and eating! But walking round of European cities, particularly one like Rome, is walking surrounded by history, and that is what makes it so magic and special….and we do clock up many kilometres….almost as much as some Camino days!

    So today we set off around 9am. The dire weather alerts (as so often happens) did not eventuate. The 100% rain and thunderstorms happened during the night, and this morning was very pleasant, working up to quite warm and sunny by midday. Walked down via Cavour to the area of all the fora ruins, climbed up Victor Emmanuel to the tomb of unknown soldier, up the hill to Marcus Aurelius on his bronze horse, then along to our favourite coffee shop for our morning fix.

    Then we walked via Piazza Navona to the river which we walked alongside, in the shade of the plane trees which are starting to shed their leaves…very peaceful. Being Sunday morning, the huge crowds not yet out, but there were many tour groups being herded along. So we went along to Castel St Angelo and turned in towards St Peter’s. Now there were crowds of course, but that is what happens when you want to enter the basilica. We found the queue and snaked along for about 45 minutes in line, but it is always worth it - such a huge amazing building, peaceful and overwhelming - and big enough not to feel crowded at all.

    Next we returned back along the river, past where we had come out before and walked as far as the Piazza del Popolo where we walked in and had a break at a caffe, a very welcome sit down! Amr had a glass of house wine which he said was Hartley or Paul worthy. I was not yet ready for wine and had a coffee…By this time the wind blew and the clouds gathered and a very light rain fell. When we set off again it was still slightly sprinkling and we actually used our umbrellas..walked up the path to the Borghese gardens above the Piazza, lovely view down and we walked a bit there, but not the day to spend hours in the wet. So we walked in a direct line from there - to Trinità dei Monti, along via sistina, quattro fontane, and the street that continues along after via nazionale but I’ve forgotten the name - till we got to our via Cavour…such a direct route home! We have already walked about 14 kms today, and that doesn’t count going out to dinner soon…

    Well now back from dinner and it is quite a story…Amr had read about an interesting good restaurant he wanted us to try…said it was quite a long walk, so that was ok - we do walking…so we set off, following the Google instructions on Amr’s phone, walking in a direction we’d never been before….we walked and walked, through unknown parts, not terribly upmarket, and I was wondering how it would be returning later in the dark, though most was ok..we passed important looking ruins and wondered where on earth we were…finally we came to the restaurant - quite small - to find it was fully booked and no chance for tonight…annoyingly they wouldn’t even take a booking for another day - said we needed to do it online (Amr had tried before and had difficulty)…so we trudged back, the upside being that we knew the way and it wasn’t late enough to be spooky! And after all that we ate at a little trattoria down the road from our hotel. And with great difficulty we did manage to book online for Sunday Oct 9 when we are back in Rome and the last night before we fly to Cairo. It had better be good!! One last thing - I looked on the map and found that we were out beyond S Giovanni Laterano, and some of the ruins were the porta s Giovanni and the city walls. This evening stroll took up our day’s total to 20 kms!!
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  • Day 5

    Wet Monday

    September 26, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    We can finally say it is a rainy day - except even then not all day. I think I’ll give up looking at the predictions…looking ahead it says our 5 days in Venice will be rainy, but we will just see what comes and be optimistic! We set off this morning in very light sprinkling rain, but it did get stronger and we had to put up our umbrellas - very annoying negotiating them along the narrow streets and bumping into everyone else’s - almost tempted to buy one of those cheap ponchos that are now being touted on the streets just for ease of walking!

    So this morning we went to a wonderful art gallery which we had been saving for a rainy day. It is a private collection in a palazzo just off the via del Corso - Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. The building itself is amazing, and the art collection stunning…it has been in the family for many generations (centuries) - the Caravaggio works were acquired before they were special and he was looked on as an outcast! So a great morning, and it was almost sunny by the time we emerged.

    I felt ready for a break of blobbing, but with the improved day we walked along to the piazza del Popolo again to see if the church with 2 Caravaggio paintings was open - but it wasn’t! Must check its hours…so we had a rectangle of pizza each to tide us till dinner, and I meandered back to the hotel, while Amr checked out some shops…..by the time he arrived back it was wet again.

    We have booked to eat at a Hartley recommended restaurant in an alley behind the Piazza di Navona. Should be good.

    Well we are now back from dinner, abluted and ready for bed. The restaurant was called Cul de Sac, and was in a little street with many eateries, and obviously a place for tourists in that location. But it was great! A small place, with a wall decor of wines, and good food. Not many Italians…we heard English English, Canadian English, French…that was just the people round us. I had marinated eggplant and ravioli with citrus flavours, and Amr had a lentil soup and a cod dish…we were both happy! It was totally clear sky with stars…and Amr thought he spotted Jupiter…off to sleep…
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  • Day 6

    Last full day in Rome

    September 27, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Not quite the last day, as we have another one before flying off to Cairo in a couple of weeks. But it has been beautiful. Set off this morning without an umbrella, that is how optimistic I felt, even though they did predict a shower between 3 and 4!! It was sunny and cool and perfect. We had our coffee at the usual place (which is 3 kms from hotel) - always need the pep after the walk, then again set off to Popolo to have a last try to see the Caravaggio paintings in the church there.

    Half way there a crisis as I realised I had dropped my trusted and very favourite and useful cardigan - had just slung it over my shoulder bag when I got hot and of course it slipped off…was rather devastated as it is so useful and we retraced our tracks right back to the Pantheon (Amr was very patient with my stupidity!) …no sighting, so sadly walked back still looking just in case….and there it was!! Someone had kindly picked it up and put it on a sign, like on a coat hanger, and I spotted it waiting for me…there is a god!

    Our good fortune continued as the church Santa Maria del Popolo was open, and we had a beautiful visit there and saw the paintings….very happy. Then we climbed up the path to the Borghese gardens, had a lovely wander there, had a sandwich, sat on a bench under the trees and read kindles…so pleasant.

    Walked back again past Trinità dei Monti, and deviated along past the Quirinale Palace and back. The rain at 3 pm turned out to be literally 2 drops - Amr felt one and I felt one - and then the cloud passed. Soon off to dinner at our favourite place of the first night. We call it Abruzzese because that is the region of the food - but think the actual name is Antica Boheme.

    …Now just back from dinner. We left the hotel early, walked up to piazza Republica and down the Via Veneto where all the very posh hotels are, and the American embassy. Ended up in piazza Barberini and had a drink watching the passing parade and crazy traffic - almost as mad as piazza Venezia! Then we walked to our restaurant on via Napoli. It was about 7.30 by then, and we were lucky to get in without a booking. They were busy and it is always so good. We had a wonderful meal - started with marinated anchovies, then Amr had a cod pasta, topped with a zucchini flower, and I had sautéed kidneys, and we had a salad and a half litre of wine. One thing that amazes us is that it is cheaper than 20 years ago. In 2002 we were happy to have dinner for under €80, and these days our dinners are often under €60! And this is comparing euros, not thinking of exchange rates….Anyway, another lovely evening. Tomorrow morning we take a train to Venice at 9.55am…nice and leisurely!
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  • Day 7

    Arrival in Venice

    September 28, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A very smooth 4 hour train trip to Venice, and we are enchanted as arrival here always makes you feel! We took a vaporetto to Ca’ d’Oro near our hotel as Amr’s bag would be rather hard to drag far…found our little hotel tucked in a small corner. Our room is in a separate building nearby, and thankfully our man carried the big bag up the 2 flights of stairs!! Charming room, looking over a little campo and we are in heaven…

    Set off straightaway as we needed to walk after such a long sit, and wandered and got a bit lost, and found ourselves, walked to S. Marco piazza and along the riva Schiavoni, beyond where the thickest crowds are…it is milling with people in the main popular areas, and very slow moving along the narrow streets…just have to be patient and enjoy. We realise we have only been here in winter when crowds are definitely limited. But it is fun and gorgeous. We found and booked our favourite restaurant - still going strong - where we used to come frequently…asked for an 8pm booking, but could only get 8.30 (glad we thought to book!)…but we will never starve - there are so many eateries everywhere, and specially round where we are staying. It is not raining, and in fact there is high cloud with small blue patches and brightness shining through, making a magic light. Just lovely.

    Now back from a perfect dinner at A La Rivetta…Amr first went there in 1983 and we have been there every visit since and it never disappoints. We have booked again for Saturday. (Paul you will have been there with us in 1991 if you can remember!)…after a bit of a break in our room we set off at 7.30 and walked back to S Marco and through and on past the very expensive upmarket shops and found the route to La Fenice where we have a concert booked on Friday. Then walked further towards the Accademia, before turning back to the restaurant. The Piazza S Marco looked much better at night - less people, and the scaffolding on part of the basilica hardly shows at night…we took some art photos, and Amr did some art canal night photos.

    Got to the restaurant at 8.30 and it was bustling…such fun. To my delight I spotted baby cuttlefish a la griglia on the menu - I guessed it was the Venetian equivalent of my Spanish favourite - chiperones a la plancha, and it was…perfect…Amr had bacalao with polenta, and we had buttered spinach and bean and onion salad…SOO good. And even ended with an amazing panna cotta, with caramel crunchiness scattered over - MasterChef worthy! I think we are going to enjoy our time in Venice.
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  • Day 8

    Beautiful Venice

    September 29, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We love our room here, with the very Italian decor and enormous four-poster bed…and we feel totally independent - we come and go with no interaction with reception as they are on the other side of the campo…there is a perfect pasticceria just below us with juice squeezed, coffee and delicious pastries. We couldn’t find satisfactory pastries in Rome, but Venice has redeemed the standard of Italy…

    After breakfast we walked to the station along the main route, just to test how far, and how difficult it would be to wheel bags! Venice is not amenable for cripples! Anyway, we decided it wasn’t too bad, and walked back and on to the Accademia where we had booked entry for 10.30. Had a lovely time there, there was a glass exhibit, but all the old works by Venetian masters were what we really loved - lots of Bellini, Tintoretto, Titian and our very favourite enormous painting by Veronese of Feast at the House of Levi…just wonderful with so much funny detail…once we had found that we were satisfied.

    It was a cool morning when we set off, and clear and blue sky…(I don’t think I’ll ever check the weather app again)…!! After the gallery we wandered along to Santa Maria della Salute. Bought a sandwich and ate them on a park bench….we noticed the water is quite high, and walking along to Salute, where the water is the lagoon and not an inside canal, it was lapping over the edge when boats went past…a bit tricky walking…sat and admired the view from Salute and gondolas floated past, with gondoliers singing “funiculi funicula” …only in Venice!…and when we finally got back to S Marco the piazza actually was flooded and they had put up the walkways to walk above the water…it wasn’t very bad, but Amr and I have never experienced the acqua alta before, so it is an experience…just hope it doesn’t get too drastic in the next few days!

    Tomorrow is Amr’s birthday, and we have decided to have his birthday dinner tonight (and that will be his birthday in Oz) as tomorrow night we go to a concert in La Fenice, the famous opera house which was destroyed by fire a while ago, and I have never been inside…so tomorrow we will have a small early dinner before that, and tonight we can enjoy dinner at leisure.

    We have booked a restaurant right near our hotel and right on a canal. Before that we are going to walk along the Fondamente Nuove, and to the Jewish quarter. Just looked out the window and see that it is in fact raining!!! Clouds seem to come and go quickly here - it did sprinkle slightly a while ago, then I saw sun and shadows…we’ll still venture out, maybe with umbrellas.

    …well we did venture out and had a lovely walk to the Jewish quarter, and then along the Fondamente Nuove with a wonderful view over to San Michele, the cemetery island, and with a cloud view showing the very fickle weather here…it rained and it was sunny during our walk…We passed the hospital, with the dock for ambulance boats (as in the Donna León detective books) then we walked back, stopping at a little square near the huge church of S Giovanni and S Paolo for a pre dinner drink…we have noticed that EVERYONE is drinking aperol spritz…it is THE cocktail…wherever we go..! I usually have Campari (which is also de rigueur) and Amr does have an Aperol! So we fit in! Arriving back in S Marco the high tide had receded and the alta acqua boards had been taken down (till the next high tide)..then went to the restaurant for dinner…lovely special birthday dinner, right near our hotel.

    We walk a lot…usually around 20 kms a day…today Amr’s Apple Watch said 20 and mine said 18, but we had been walking together…so who knows…but we are keeping fit and active!
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  • Day 9

    Amr’s birthday in Venice

    September 30, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I had just finished writing up today and it was uploading and somehow it has totally disappeared…don’t know what sensitive part of my iPad I touched, but I have to start from scratch, and am very frustrated as it is after midnight and I just had to add our evening as I had written all the early part of the day in mid afternoon….so now I must try and remember all…GRRRR

    Well, in a nutshell, we had a lovely breakfast in the place that is the ground floor of our building…fabulous eatery that has pastries, yogurt, fruit, granola in the morning and then transforms to pizza, focaccia, bruschetta, paninis by lunchtime and for the rest of the day. Also great coffee, juice (and beer, wine and the eternal Aperol!).

    So after that we set off and walked…this time over the Rialto and into the markets - lovely fish, fruit, veg, cheese etc…then on to the station across that different route, via churches and beautiful buildings. We picked up some figs and buffala mozzarella in a supermarket which is in an ex theatre…a gorgeous building, still with decorated ceiling and beams, with the supermarket plonked inside…very amazing!

    The tide was again up when we returned to S Marco and the boards were up to walk over, but it recedes after a while…we had a drink in the square on the dry side, and waited for our visit inside the basilica. Amr had with great agony managed to get tickets online, as we had observed the chaos and long lines of people waiting…we thought even the people with tickets also had a line - shorted but still a queue…but when we showed up we went straight in to our joy…no waiting at all (and there was an enormous queue of non ticket holders), so it was all worthwhile. Wonderful visit…never ceases to amaze - the mosaics, the gold…we even paid extra to see the Pala d’oro which we hadn’t seen before - a huge ornate sheet of gold and jewels, with enamel pictures…impossible to describe…made as an altar cover…

    Afterwards we walked a bit up the riva Schiavoni, but it was raining by then so we went back to the room for some downtime. The weather pattern seems to be fine mornings and then showery afternoons…(but Amr says the prediction for the next 2 days is fine)…we’ll see!

    Set off for our concert in La Fenice, with a bit of a walk first…the building is beautifully renovated after the fire…very light - white ceilings with peach coloured walls and trim and chandeliers…our concert was in a smaller hall as it was a chamber group - a sextet from Belgium…lovely music - Wagner, Brahms and Schoenberg. We think we may take a tour of the building if we can fit it in to see all the halls.

    Concert finished at a bit after 9.30 and we hoped there would be restaurants still open willing to take new diners..but no problem..a little place just round the corner from the hotel was open and happy and we had a delicious simple meal of pasta (gnocchi for me) and grilled vegetables…Perfect end to the evening.
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