Italy and Egypt 2022

September - October 2022
We will spend 2 weeks in Italy - Rome, Venice and Bologna - before joining friends in Cairo for a tour of
Egyptian wonders and a boat trip down the Nile. On the way home we will spend a few days in Kuala Lumpur.
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  • Day 9

    Amr’s birthday in Venice

    September 30, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Another lovely day! Had breakfast at our little place right under us…a fabulous eatery, and very popular…in the morning there is an array of pastries, and yogurt, fruit, granola, and by lunchtime it has transformed to pizza, bruschetta, focaccia, panini - all fresh and very appealing. And wonderful coffee, fresh juice (and wine, beer and the eternal Aperol!)…so we are well placed for food. Then we set off walking - this time over the Rialto and into the markets there (saw the baby calamari that I would love to buy in Oz)…then on to the station via the different route..all very lovely along the endless streets, canals, bridges and campos. I totally depend on Amr as a guide…totally lose my sense of direction in these streets..now learning some of the landmarks on the route to S Marco…!

    The high tide came up again and the walking boards came up in the piazza S Marco…it was receding by the time we got there and we sat on the dry side and had a drink watching the scene till our allotted time to visit the basilica. With great agony Amr had managed to book tickets online as we knew it reduced queuing time to get in, and we had watched the chaos of people trying to enter….so we went early thinking we’d have wait a bit, but to our delight we had immediate access, and were blown away yet again by the magnificence of the building, the gold mosaics just everywhere - quite dazzling. We even paid extra to see the Pala d’Oro which is an elaborate slab of gold and jewels, with enamel pictures…impossible to describe…created as an altar cover (instead of cloth)…altogether a beautiful visit.

    We are starting to understand the weather…it is fine in the morning, and in the afternoon it clouds over, and today it did rain - needed umbrellas - and was more than passing clouds! But never pouring rain. Amr has just told me that tomorrow and Sunday will be fine in Venice! We’ll see.

    Tonight we go to the concert in La Fenice, and we think we’ll have a little late dinner after. Tomorrow we plan to take a train to Vicenza, to have a look round there, and maybe stop off at Padua on the way back. It will be a bit of a break to walk along normal streets for a change - much as we love the alleys of Venice!

    Now back from our evening…the concert was lovely..it was a Belgian sextet (the Phoenix Sextet) playing Wagner, Brahms and Schoenberg…not in the big opera theatre but in a smaller room suitable for chamber music…I think there are 3 halls - the opera hall, the concert hall and the chamber hall…we think we’ll do a tour if we can fit in to see it all. The renovation since the fire is beautiful…very light - white ceilings, peach coloured walls and trim, chandeliers.

    The concert finished soon after 9.30, and I hoped there would still be restaurants willing to feed us…but no problem - a small place just round the corner from the hotel was open (and a few more came after us)…we had a delicious meal - Amr had a veg pasta, I had gnocchi, and we had grilled vegetables…perfect. A good birthday I think!
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  • Day 10

    Perfect day in Vicenza

    October 1, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    I hope today’s entry doesn’t disappear, and then appear in both forms twice…the mysteries of the internet…anyway, here’s hoping! We have had a lovely time today - the weather prediction was correct and we didn’t even take umbrellas with us for the day excursion to Vicenza. Got a train at 10.10am…we had to skip breakfast at our favourite place downstairs as it was so busy and the train only goes every hour, so we hotfooted it to the station and had a 45 min train ride to Vicenza. We haven’t been there together since our very first trip in 1987. It is a lovely town with a Roman history and very famous for the wonderful buildings designed by Palladio, the famous architect of the 1700s…full of arches, columns and huge palaces. We bought a ticket which would take us to 4 sites…the first and probably most impressive was the Teatro Olimpico - an absolute amazing theatre designed by Palladio (but finished after his death) and built in the shape of an amphitheatre which had originally been there…it has a permanent set made for the original play performed - Oedipus Rex - with intricate buildings, streets and statues - and perspective…

    Then we went into several galleries, all in these enormous buildings (we got plenty of exercise ascending to the upper floors - each level the equivalent of about 3 normal ones!).. so it was all good and fun…when we were galleried out we sat in the main piazza and had a break. We had had coffee, and I had juice and a croissant when we first arrived, so the chips and nuts they always provide with drinks were welcome, and on the way to the station we had another break while waiting for the train.

    Lovely arriving back in Venice after a day trip, with no baggage! The train both ways was full of people lugging bags and we felt carefree. The train just goes from Venice to Verona, via Padua and Vicenza, and back, but being Saturday there were so many people…

    Now back and relaxed. Amr has gone off to the laundromat to do our accumulated washing as we have time before our booking at a La Rivetta at 9 o’clock. So I am relaxing with my feet up and looking forward to dinner (where we went on the first night - our favourite)!
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  • Day 11

    Sunday, last day in Venice

    October 2, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    First I have to mention the most amazing thing that happened last night…we were standing on a bridge outside our restaurant waiting to be called in, when a couple came up and she said “I don’t believe it….” I gazed at them blankly, who could know us in Venice?? Anyway it slowly dawned that is was Cassandra Farrell (my ex-niece!) with her husband Henrik who I had never met!!! Of course, they do live in Europe - in Denmark - but what a coincidence…they were in Venice for the weekend, but to be at the same spot in Venice on the same day!!! So that was exciting and fun, and we hope to see them when they come to Oz at Christmas.

    This morning we got going leisurely as no time constraints. A beautiful day as promised - cool to start, and almost hot in the sun by afternoon. First we went to La Fenice to take a tour to see the whole building. Fabulous…you pay to enter and then download an audio guide on your phone (with their wifi) and we went right through the whole magnificent building. It is huge, and much larger then looks from the front, and in fact, if you walk round the little lanes to the canal at the back there is what was originally the main entrance as the nobility would always arrive by water (they would not walk!!)…the main concert hall is stunning…they were working on the stage, presumably setting up for Daughter of the Regiment which is on in about a week…we could view it from the boxes…very rococo and ornate, but somehow not overpowering. It has twice been destroyed by fire, but like its name, it has twice risen from the ashes. (I had not realised that Fenice means Phoenix).

    After that we walked along the riva Schiavoni, through the slow-moving milling throngs, towards the park at the pointy end of the island. Paused for a juice, coffee and pizza slab to keep us going, and then sat in the park with kindles. That was the plan, but Amr decided to look at the Biennale exhibits which are right there. So he happily did that and I happily sat in the beautiful park. Amr says to report that the Australian exhibit had a welcome to country…Wandered back, absolutely stunning light on the sparkling water, and being Sunday it was difficult walking as everyone was out and there were people traffic jams in all the narrow streets.

    Tonight we go to an opera in a palazzo! Meg and Stephen recommended it so that is good for us, and it will be fun…it is the Barber of Seville….what can go wrong! ….and it was fun! We are now back from the opera. Really intimate, about 70 or so people, and a piano, violin and cello provided the music…very spirited and funny. The barber of Seville is a comic opera so they spoofed it up and involved the audience in a fun way, and modified the story to accommodate fewer characters, but it is such a silly and complicated story that even a purist wouldn’t care, and they sang all the good bits!! A great evening. And it was lovely in the palazzo - each act we moved into another room…hard to describe the whole experience, but we are really happy that we went.

    Now all packed up and ready for an early start to get the 9.42am train to Bologna.
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  • Day 12

    Settled into Bologna

    October 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Up early to get to the station taking bags up and over all the canal bridges. But not too bad, and when we were nearby we stopped and had yum juice, coffee and croissant. Sorry to say goodbye to the magic of Venice, but I do find now that we are in Bologna it is good to have a bit more space walking the streets! An easy ride on a fast regional train, and a waste of money buying tickets as no one ever checked them (likewise on our trip to Vicenza)! Oh well…we are honest people…and no masks on these trains, though I believe you are meant to on PT…we were told to put them on on the high speed train from Rome….

    Arrived at Bologna just before 12 and staying at the Mercure right near the station, so handy, where we have stayed before. Though early, our room was ready and we were upgraded to a high level with balcony and quite swish! Treated like platinum Accor people, and were given our welcome drink voucher!!

    It is another fine and perfect day, and we walked out in short sleeves, though will probably cool off deliciously in the evening. We walked along the long main street into the old historic centre. Such a lovely city, with colonnades along all the streets - shade from the sun and protection from rain…the colonnades are varied and just delightful - kilometres of them. Wandered round the old part and went into the building which was part of the very old university of Bologna famous for its medical school and went into the old anatomy theatre and the old law lecture theatre. All decorated rooms, and one sculpture is of a cherub handing what looks like a flower to a lady, but on close inspection it is a femur! And inspected several enormous cathedrals, churches.

    The biggest and main one, on the Piazza maggiore is S Petronius …very interesting facade - the bottom half pink marble, and the top is brown bricks. I overheard a guide telling a group that tomorrow is the feast day of S Petronius and everything will be closed (schools etc, not shops) and we saw that tomorrow there is a tortellini festival with 20 chefs each demonstrating their tortellini skills!

    Tomorrow we also plan to go to Modena where Amr wants to visit the Ferrari museum…not my choice, and I will explore the streets and read my kindle while he does the Ferrari bit.
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  • Day 13

    What a day to be in Bologna!

    October 4, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Actually we spent most of the day in Modena. We leisurely went to the station and took a regional train, half an hour’s trip, to Modena. Amr’s first priority was to check out the Enzo Ferrari museum which was a short walk, not in the heart of the city. To see this museum was about an hour’s duration and I happily read my kindle in the garden outside…Amr enjoyed it, and then we set out to see the sights of Modena. It is a small city, and very much quieter than either Rome, Venice or Bologna. No crowds, and no bustle, though a good feeling. They also do arcades along the streets which is attractive…we went to the Piazza Grande where there is the Duomo di Modena - one of the most beautiful we have ever seen (and we’ve seen many along our Caminos!)…the outside is the pink marble of this region and inside it is soft brown brick (I read that it was terracotta in an Italian description - but was a brick effect). It is Romanesque, built in the 11th century, and just lovely. A UNESCO world heritage site. Then we found the markets and loved wandering there (Balsamic vinegar di Modena of course is a specialty, but also tortellini seem to be special…). We chatted with a man at a stall and have found that tortellini are the tiny ones, tortelloni are the medium size ones (like the ones we have in Oz I would say) and the very big ones are tortellacci! Anyway, we had fun there, had some bread and cheese and a coffee/chocolate in a caffe and then headed back to the station, as we remembered the tortellini festival in Bologna, and the festival of San Petronio, the patron Saint of Bologna.

    We got back at about 4.15pm, and had about an hour or so of downtime and then set off to see what was happening. Well, that was when the fun started…we walked down the main street - via dell’independenza - that goes right down from the station to the main square…and found that it had been closed off as a pedestrian area, with side streets leading into it, and it felt as if the whole of Bologna was out and about and celebrating the holiday. Such fun. We made our way to the tortellini area, and found that for €5 you could have tortellini OR a glass of wine, or a gelato, or cheese….and there was a long queue waiting for the experience, so we abandoned that idea, and went into the main square opposite the cathedral where many were gathering, found a table at a bar (you had to be quick, as soon as someone stood up the table was again occupied)…and we found we had a ringside seat for all the festivities, as soon there was singing from the cathedral, and a procession came right round the square. From time to time there was a very noisy banging and percussion din from a nearby building - at first I thought it was part of the action, but we decided it was protests against the religious traditions (in the recent elections Bologna was a centre of left wing sentiment!)…anyway, the church singing continued, and the din continued and it gradually got dark, with very lovely pink clouds…quite magic. Then we set off to find dinner and went down a nearby side street - all the eateries in this central area were buzzing - we again were lucky to get a table in the centre of it all and had a perfect meal (tortellini!), while watching the masses - young, old, families - all out and about!
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  • Day 14

    Wednesday in Florence

    October 5, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today we went to Florence. Got a train - splurged on a Frecciarossa - and sped down to Florence in 37 minutes! It seemed to be 90% in tunnels, and not a train ride watching the countryside (I don’t remember such long tunnels when we went north from Rome to Venice on the same route. Anyway, a perfect way to get to the destination. At first we wandered our way to the duomo which is as gorgeous as ever - it is always amazing to behold - and then walked on to the Piazza della Signoria, located where our favourite gelatoria is, along to the Ponte Vecchio before making our way back to the Uffizi.

    Amr had booked entry to the Uffizzi galleries for 11.45…it was a bit tricky booking online, but it was recommended to streamline entry…but it sounded as if it was a guided tour (which we wouldn’t normally do)..but on arrival at the meeting point it turned out that they “guide” met us and gave us tickets so that we could go straight in and not line up…so very good. We spent several hours there, well organised so that you follow on and don’t miss rooms…lovely old masters, and scatterings of the very famous.

    Once finished with our dose of culture, we had a gelato and went and relaxed at another favourite bar on Piazza de la Republica, had a sandwich and tea/wine and relaxed and enjoyed. It was fairly hot by then - another wonderful cloudless day! Wandered round some more, via Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella and went back to the station to see about trains back to Bologna.

    This time, with no time constraints, we bought cheap tickets (about a third cost of the Frecciarossa) which took us back in about an hour and a half…regional trains, packed full at that time of day and rather fun…we had to change trains at Prato, and ended back at Bologna at just before 7pm. But it was via lovely Tuscan countryside and not nearly so many tunnels!

    Had a little meal at one of the many restaurants here (yum meatballs and salad). A good day.
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  • Day 15

    Lovely relaxed day in Bologna

    October 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A relaxed start, and we had breakfast in a caffe at the station - right near us, and wonderful coffee, juice and pastries. Then we made our way into the centre as we had a 10.30 appointment to go up the famous tower. Bologna is famous for towers (like San Gimignano?) and there are 2 famous remaining ones - the due torri - and you had to make an appointment online to go up. We love towers, so we signed up…I must say I assumed that there was a lift as there was no warning for cripples or people with heart problems as there normally is, but when our time came and we started up it was obvious that we had to climb and climb and climb up narrow stairs!!! That is why the timing is strict, as you can’t pass people coming the opposite direction…anyway, once I had my head around it I plodded on! And made it!! It did seem endless, but we knew it would be breathtaking looking down from the top. And it was just amazing…once up there you could take as long as you wanted gazing down at the red roofs of Bologna, and in the distance to the surrounding hills and the Santuario di San Luca. Fabulous, and well worth climbing up the 498 stairs. It was built in the 12th century, has survived all that time. It looks straight, but definitely the smaller tower near it is at an angle…they are a famous Bologna landmark.

    After that we wanted to explore the city along the side streets and places we hadn’t been. I lose my sense of direction very swiftly in all the little streets but Amr is pretty good and we had a map. We have stayed here twice before - in 1991 and 2011 - and it felt rather different and we realised that both those times were in January which is cold and grey (and thank goodness for all the arcades)! So at this time of year it has been cloudless and warm, and all the eateries have outdoor seating and at lunchtime and especially in the evening are crowded and pulsating with life.

    We also came across another wonderful basilica - San Stefano. We usually pop into churches to look as they usually are good, but this turned out to be sensational (found it is one of the highlights of Bologna)…it has a complex of many churches and chapels, and cloisters. Beautiful and looks Romanesque. After more wandering, and a snack we had kindle time in a pretty park…the leaves are starting to colour.

    Dinner tonight in the hubbub of restaurants - we always choose a different one. Good meal. I started with ratatouille and Amr a salad. Perfect as I wanted a veg fix, then we shared a lasagne verde, with mortadella and pistachio! Different and yum! And we got chatting to the couple at the next table (always rather intimately close) - they were Swiss, live in Bern, and she is Japanese.

    We are loving our time here…Bologna is not a tourist destination, though of course there are always some tourists, but basically it is a busy bustling city filled with people going about their business. And its university is famous, and the oldest in Europe. As we walked today we went through the university area and realised it was orientation week - just buzzing, welcome signs, clubs advertising for members and lots of activity…tomorrow is the last full day here…we think we will have a visit to Ferrara, a short train ride away.
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  • Day 16

    A visit to Ferrara

    October 7, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    After a leisurely breakfast at the station cafe we hopped on a local train to Ferrara. We have fond memories of doing this from Bologna 11 years ago in early February. It is a very nice town, but we were a bit disappointed that the beautiful pink and white striped marble cathedral is closed for renovation and even the facade all blocked off in the centre…I found the photo from 2011 and it looked so different on a winter afternoon, everyone rugged up (and no scaffolding) - very contrasting from the bright sunlight of today. Also today was market day and there were stalls along every street in the centre (these were clothes stalls, not fruit and veg) so hard to see any building properly. But lots of hustle and bustle and very pleasant.

    We meandered round - there are lots of old old buildings - and when we decided to wander back to the station it was end of school time and happy chaos in the streets as they all headed to buses and trains….and quite a lot of people heading off for the weekend.

    Now back relaxing …we have taken advantage of our spacious room here to do lots of washing - we can hang it invisibly in the open on our balcony, and it all dries very quickly. So a clean start tomorrow when we get the train back to Rome for 2 nights. We had hoped to stay in the same hotel Argentina in Rome once we discovered how handy and nice it was, but when we asked 2 weeks ago for the extra days they were booked out…so we have booked another place, also on via Cavour, just opposite Argentina. It is (dubiously) called Audrey’s Roman Holiday!!! But it sounded nice, so will report on that tomorrow. Tonight we have actually booked a restaurant called Diana where we have been many years ago, and being Friday, and judging by the many people eating out each night, we thought it wise to book. Will report on that too.

    Just have to add that we are now back from Diana (where we had lunch in 1991 with Paul and Omnia) and what a great night! It is now quite a posh upmarket restaurant (maybe it was then, but we don’t remember it like that!)…anyway, it was wonderful. A change from the places we have dined in the last few days, which though fun, were not elegant. Tonight was relaxed enough, but a real restaurant, and the food was fab and it was fun watching the whole place throb! (And it wasn’t much more expensive than the other places, even including a Sangiovese riserva ….we were treated to a Prosecco and amuse bouche on arrival, and then Amr had a bollito misto with a salsa verde (a selection of boiled meat - divine for Amr!) and I had veal with porcini mushroom sauce, and we had grilled vegetables…SOOO good. We prolonged the experience as long as possible, with dessert and coffee (Amr)…an excellent night.
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  • Day 17

    Back in Rome

    October 8, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After a last walk in Bologna, we had breakfast and went leisurely to the train station. We now know that the very fast trains have secret platforms way underground at Bologna station which we discovered the day we went to Florence. So we zoomed back to Rome, mostly in tunnels till Florence, and then through very pretty countryside (passing Orvieto up on the hill) and got to Rome just after 3pm.

    Went to via Cavour and rang the bell for Audrey’s Roman holidays and no response (a sinking feeling, as we had emailed Giorgio our time of arrival etc)…anyway, all was well, Amr phoned and a minion of Giorgio soon arrived and let us in…there is no actual reception which is why we had told him - and he had asked - exactly when we would be arriving!! So now that we have the keys to all the doors to go through to get to our room we are happy! We have a very nice room - light, spotless and with all that we need, and when we leave on Monday we just leave the keys and close the doors!! Perfect…we will probably never meet Giorgio who also owns other places in Rome, but we are totally independent.

    So we had a walk to stretch after the train, and a drink watching the chaos in Piazza Barberini. It is Saturday, and the whole city is of course so busy. Walking along the Corso was just a sea of people (they turn it into an area pedonale on the weekend), also the Spanish steps area…and there was something on - we think it was a communist or leftist rally as endless numbers of people kept walking by with red t-shirts and banners…all quite friendly and not confrontational!

    Then we have just had dinner at our favourite place for the last time. Have to confess that I wasn’t feeling 100% (a nerve ache in a SI joint area, and general vapours…). Anyway, we enjoyed dinner - I got Amr to eat most of mine which he liked more than his choice, and with fizzy water, wine, a dessert sugar hit and as many pills as seemed useful I hope I will be revived in the morning. Will also do some yoga to stretch the muscles..
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  • Day 18

    Last full day in Rome, and in Italy

    October 9, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We had a reasonably busy day which was good, as I still had the vapours and didn’t feel like doing anything! But once up and doing we had a very peasant day - set off on one of our usual walks along Quattro fontane and sistina to the top of the Spanish steps…then aiming to go to the Borghese gardens, we were sidetracked as the Medici villa was open, and we joined a tour of the garden and palace…huge and lovely, but it almost felt as if we walked up as many stairs as the tower (not 498, but many)…those old buildings don’t do lifts.

    After that we did sit in the Borghese gardens with kindles for quite a while. Then walked back along the Corso to piazza Venezia where we sat in a favourite bar and watched the chaos of traffic and people all out on a Sunday afternoon. There used to be a policeman standing on a stand in the middle of the piazza, with white gloves and a whistle…but they have obviously abandoned that and the traffic miraculously works itself out!

    Back to our room and relaxed till we left for the dinner at the restaurant we couldn’t get into 2 weeks ago, and Amr booked online with great difficulty! It had been recommended I think by a friend of Hartley and it was very good - though I didn’t do justice to it, but Amr did and had a wonderful frittata with chicken livers (I did have some of that) and he had a pasta with pork neck, which I also had tastes, and I had ordered marinated eggplant…all good, and we could easily find it this time, and the walk didn’t seem so long when you know where you are going. On the way we passed a group of dancers doing the tango…

    Now back and ready to leave early in the morning to get the flight to Cairo. Peter and Louise already there, and I think all the others will be arriving tomorrow too!!
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