• Coral Coast WA

    April 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    While Dan, Helen and Claire departed early to scuba dive the outer reef, we enjoyed a much needed sleep-in and ‘down day’.

    We explored the town centre, including an obligatory visit to the bakery and coffee shop, and necessary stock up at the IGA. Ten minutes later, we drove out to Town Beach and through the impressive marina housing estate where a single block of land was selling for $750k!

    What was interesting to see is all the temporary infrastructure and event planning that is being set up around town in preparation for the solar eclipse and anticipated influx of some 20,000 visitors.

    There’s food trucks everywhere and live performance stages at key locations in town and down at the beach. They’ve also installed a giant water bladder to boost supply to the town. Plus we learned today that 40 extra police have arrived in town for the 4 day event - we’ve already been waved through two RBTs in a day!

    We checked out the Welch Street temporary overflow campground on the outskirts of town where the Shire is literally selling an unserviced patch of desert for $320 for 4 nights! We’re very grateful to be in the premier caravan park in town with lovely manicured sites and a full range of amenities. Thanks Dan for being on the case more than 12 months ago to secure our bookings.

    It’s been getting busier by the day but so far the town seems well prepared.
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  • Whale Sharks WA

    April 16, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Today was exactly what this trip was all about. The catalyst for being here. A bucket list dream years in the planning. We swam with Whale Sharks at Ningaloo Reef and it was fantastic. And to top it off we were joined by a pod of dolphins for the experience!

    Our vessel for the day was called ‘Blue Strike’ operated by Exmouth Dive & Whalesharks. After a short practice snorkel at the inner reef, we headed out to begin our search for the big fish. It took only half an hour or so for the spotter plane to find our first Whale Shark and we were quickly into the water. We got a glimpse, but this guy was a juvenile with a case of the zoomies and just too quick to keep up with. So back on the boat and off to find a slower one.

    After not too long we found a big Whale Shark (approx. 7m long) that was happily cruising near the surface - the perfect candidate for us to swim along with. We spent quite some time getting up close and personal with this magnificent creature as it casually swam by only a few short metres away. Immersed in the water alongside it we could see every detail of its spotted skin and truly appreciate the scale of this gentle giant as it cruised the crystal waters of Ningaloo Reef.

    Heading back to the wharf we dropped anchor in the calm waters of the inner reef to enjoy an on-board lunch and snorkel in the warm shallow waters off the back of the boat. The water was a stunning 26 degrees and the day-time temp was sitting at around 28 degrees. Just perfect.

    Another magical day in WA was topped off with woodfired pizzas and a tasting paddle at the Whalebone Brewery - an Exmouth institution.

    We all agreed that today has moved to the top of our highlights list. It's going to be hard to bump it from here, but we still have a few weeks and many adventures ahead so who knows...
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  • Exmouth WA

    April 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    We’ve made it to Exmouth, the half way turn-around point of our trip. We’re also officially in the tropics having crossed the Tropic of Capricorn somewhere along the way.

    It’s a bit surreal finally being here. Almost 18 years ago our besties and partners in travel crime, Dan and Helen, came to Exmouth for their honeymoon. They loved what it had to offer, especially the beaches and Ningaloo Reef, but the timing wasn’t right for Whale Sharks so they vowed one day to return when their kids (then not even conceived) were old enough to appreciate the experience. That just so happens to now coincide with Dan and Anthony’s 50th years and what better way to celebrate together! And so this epic trip evolved…

    Today was a long travel day. We stopped briefly in Carnarvon for groceries and fuel before once again hitting the open road. Fellow travellers had warned us that between towns there’s a whole lot of nothing. They weren’t wrong. However nothing can be interesting if you choose to see the beauty in it.

    As we left the main highway and headed out along the Minilya-Exmouth Road the landscape was scattered with giant termite mounds in all directions as far as the eye could see. Some of them were really tall, others really wide, and I read that they can last upwards of 100 years!

    As the road continued on (and on) we were teased by a sign saying ‘Welcome to Exmouth’ - a mere 90 kms away! I guess it’s all relative.

    We also saw the setting up of the ‘live site’ for viewing the solar eclipse out near Learmonth in the direct path of totality. Whilst we didn’t plan our trip to coincide with the eclipse, we’re embracing the experience and learning the lingo as this highly anticipated astronomical event draws near (we’ll be umbraphiles by the end of the week) 🤓

    The Exmouth Ningaloo Caravan and Holiday Resort will now be our home for the next week while we relax and explore this part of the Coral Coast. It’s a lovely park, predictably full with caravans and motorhomes but with a friendly and relaxed vibe.

    After a long day in the car we enjoyed dinner at the on-site Italian restaurant before retiring early in preparation for Whale Sharks in the morning!
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  • Wooramel River Retreat WA

    April 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Today as we continue to head north we crossed the 26th parallel officially welcoming us to the north west. Thankfully we’ve seen no signs of TC Ilsa which reportedly made landfall near Port Headland and is now dissipating inland.

    What we have seen today is a whole lot of nothing! The landscape out here is perhaps even more sparse than the Nullarbor. In contrast, the highway is quite busy with signs announcing ‘major event in progress’, which we understand to be the upcoming total solar eclipse. The Billabong and Overlander Roadhouses on route were doing a cracking trade with crazy long queues for fuel.

    Tonight we made camp at Wooramel River Retreat, a working cattle and goat station and outback station stay. Usually the Wooramel River flows upside down with water running on the surface only 2-3 times a year for a couple of weeks at a time after good inland rain. We were lucky enough to experience this phenomenon. It was beautiful wading through the cool water in the warm afternoon as the setting sun highlighted the big river gums.

    After a competitive thong float race down the river we retreated to the hot bore baths for a relaxing soak. Natural pressure pushes the artesian water some 240m to the surface with a constant temperature of around 33 degrees. The high mineral content of the water is said to have therapeutic qualities but all we got was a weird orange glow like a bad fake tan. But we were relaxed 😎

    After a campfire dinner we sat back with another Margaret River red to watch the stars (including the best shooting star we’ve ever seen) and appreciate just how small we are in the context of the universe. As it turns out, we also happened to be gazing upwards at the perfect moment to witness the fuel plume from the second stage of the Ariane 5 rocket carrying the European Space Agency's JUICE (JUpiter ICy moons Explorer) mission, beginning an ambitious voyage to uncover the secrets of the ocean worlds around giant planet Jupiter. Very cool!

    Sometimes life without power or internet is bliss xx
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  • Kalbarri WA

    April 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Watching the local news tonight we’re not sure if we’re heading north to Exmouth for a solar eclipse or WA’s biggest cyclone party! Either way it’ll be a cultural event to remember. But that’s for another day…

    Today we visited the outstanding Kalbarri National Park where the Murchison River has cut a magnificent 80km gorge through the red and white banded sandstone. I had been looking forward to this and it didn’t disappoint.

    First stop - Kalbarri Skywalk. Wow! Perched right on the cliff top two enormous platforms jut out over the gorge providing incredible views up and down the valley and of the river below.

    Just down the road, we climbed out to Nature’s Window, a natural rock arch formed from layers of Tumblagooda Sandstone. No wonder it’s one of WA’s most iconic natural attractions. It was truly spectacular!

    We also walked out to Z Bend overlooking a sharp bend in the gorge - us and a million flies! The boys inventively made swatters using fallen branches. The river was officially in flood and we could see and hear it rushing through the valley below.

    Back in town the kids enjoyed a swim and made themselves comfy in the camp kitchen with their beloved game of Settlers of Catan, while Dan, Helen, Anthony and I took ‘happy hour’ to Red Bluff. A perfect end to yet another great day.
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  • Batavia Coast WA

    April 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We’re not quite in the middle of nowhere but we can see it from here…

    Tonight we’re in Kalbarri at the Red Bluff Tourist Park, a fancy little place in a fabulous spot on the edge of the Kalbarri National Park and nearby the mouth of the Murchison River.

    Our journey here took us along the coast road through the towns of Jurien Bay, Dongara and Geraldton, past some curious sights (including a BIG lobster), and through a lot of nothingness, before cruising into Kalbarri just in time for ‘happy hour’.

    The iconic leaning tree on route at Greenough epitomised the southerly wind blown landscape of the region.

    But perhaps the most interesting stop today was the Hutt Lagoon, a remarkable pink lake which is mined both for its salt and for its food colouring properties. The colour of the lake changes from red to pink to lilac, depending on the time of day, time of year and the cloud cover. Happily for us it was blushing pink at the time.
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  • Pinnacles WA

    April 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The weathered limestone pillars known as the Pinnacles are definitely one of the great geological attractions in the country. Some of the tallest pinnacles reach heights of up to 3.5 m above the yellow sand base. The different types of formations include ones which are much taller than they are wide and resemble columns, while others are only a metre or so in height and width resembling short tombstones.Read more

  • Turquoise Coast WA

    April 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another cracking WA day!

    This morning we ticked off the second of our ‘swim with’ experiences - Sea Lions!

    A short jet boat ride from Cervantes wharf and we were snorkelling with a bunch of super friendly bubble-loving sea lions who seemed quite happy to share their natural environment, playfully performing for us both in and out of the water.

    Back at the wharf we indulged in our much anticipated lunch at the famed Lobster Shack. We even splurged to try abalone for the first (and last) time - an expensive taste of disappointment. The lobster and prawns on the other hand were amazing.

    Moving on, we checked out the Stromatolites at Lake Thetis. Apparently these rock-like formations are the oldest lifeforms on our planet and played an important role in the history of the earth by contributing oxygen to the atmosphere. You can see tiny bubbles on the surface of the lake from the living Stromatolites. Pretty cool.

    But the highlight of the day was definitely the lunar-like Pinnacles in Nambung National Park. These tall limestone spires are definitely one of the most unique and fascinating landscapes we’ve seen. We felt transported to another world as we drove the 4 km loop through the yellow dessert sands. And we timed it all perfectly to coincide with a beautiful west cost sunset.
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  • Cervantes WA

    April 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Travelling from Fremantle to Cervantes we now understand why they say WA stands for windy always!

    As we pulled into the RAC Cervantes Holiday Park we encountered the first real disruptive rain of our trip so far. We didn’t really have plans for the afternoon so retired to the camp kitchen for ‘happy hour’, which then rolled into dinner.

    On account of the weather, the camp kitchen was pumping. It was interesting seeing the different meals being created by our fellow travellers - everything from monster T-bone steaks with mushroom sauce and all the salad trimmings, to spaghetti marinara loaded with prawns and a side of garlic bread. My all-microwave version of butter chicken and rice was not the envy of the kitchen. Fortunately, we have boys who are not discerning and appreciate quantity over quality in these circumstances.

    Anthony and I, with Dan and Helen, were warmed by our first bottle of Margaret River red (a Xanadu special Cabernet Sauvignon). This definitely improved our meal 😋
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  • Rottnest Island WA

    April 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Happy Easter!

    Another early start in Fremantle to catch the ferry across to Rottnest Island. Mission: Selfie with a quokka.

    First up, we grabbed some hire bikes and pedalled around the island, stopping to cool down with a quick swim at Little Salmon Bay.

    Then, as we rode up to Wadjemup Lighthouse in the middle of the island, we found them - two cute little quokkas living their best life posing for selfies with excited tourists. Mission accomplished.

    We rode on through the lakes area and out to the stunning Pinkys Beach and Bathurst Lighthouse with its sweeping views back towards the Perth skyline.

    Back in the village precinct we sat down for a few minutes to eat some snacks when an opportunistic little quokka decided Anthony’s lap looked like a comfy spot for a sit down. It caused quite a spectacle as it made itself comfortable while we tried to coax it off (without touching or feeding it as per the rules).

    We ended a perfect day on 'Rotto' with happy hour overlooking Thompson Bay as we waited for our return ferry.
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  • Rockingham WA

    April 8, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today we were up super early and headed down to Rockingham to join Perth Wildlife Encounters for their swim with dolphins cruise, as featured on Travel Guides - move over Fren family, we got this!

    The uniqueness of this particular experience is that the dolphins are wild and at home in their natural environment. They don't perform tricks and they certainly don’t come on cue, as we found out!

    We cruised the waters of Cockburn Sound for over 5 hours looking for the cheeky creatures (apparently the average search time is around 1 hr). Fortunately the water was calm and the on-board lunch kept us going.

    Just when we thought it wasn’t going to be our day, a playful pod of 8 or so dolphins appeared alongside the boat and the game of hide and seek was over. We were treated to a truly magical experience swimming amongst them (including a mother and her calf) at just an arm’s length away.

    After finishing what turned out to be a very long day cruising on such such a high, we treated ourselves for dinner at Portorosa restaurant in Fremantle. And as it turned out, we were also treated to the Fremantle Street Arts Festival, an open-air theatre of the amazing, weird and wacky!
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  • Perth WA

    April 7, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    It’s Good Friday!

    This morning we enjoyed a relaxed start before heading to the airport to meet Josh and Ryan, with Dan, Helen, Claire and Michael. Josh had joked about wanting to be greeted with a sign… I think he was suitably impressed/embarrassed LOL.

    We spent the rest of the day exploring Perth and finishing with fish and chips down at Fremantle Harbour. I must say I’m feeling very short suddenly!

    After a very early (4 am) start for the boys, we retired early ready for tomorrow’s adventures.

    Thank you Nan and Pop for taking good care of Josh and Ryan the past two weeks and especially for getting them to the airport at sparrows this morning.

    We’re all a little cosier in the van tonight, but our family is complete again and we wouldn’t have it any other way xx
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  • Busselton WA

    April 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today, finally, after 12 days of heading west, we’ve dipped our toes in the Indian Ocean and are now heading north! Destination Fremantle for the Easter Weekend. We’re very much looking forward to reuniting with Josh and Ryan and will be waiting excitedly at the airport to welcome them tomorrow morning. Although he probably won’t admit it, Lachie is especially excited for their return. Mum and Dad are fun, but big bros are the best! The footy ball is already out and awaiting a good kick-around.

    When in Busselton, one must visit the longest wooden-piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Being such a glorious day we happily strolled the 1.8 km out to the Underwater Observatory, one of only six operating in the world. We saw some interesting sea life including a big Samson fish which can apparently grow to 6 feet long. We were lucky to jag some seats on the solar-powered Jetty Train for the way back, which also included interesting commentary about the history of the jetty.

    After checking in at the Discovery Park Woodman Point we headed into Fremantle for dinner at Gino’s Cafe - another great recommendation. As the story goes, Gino Saccone arrived in 1956 from Italy. He worked as a tailor in Freo for over 20 years, but he could never get a decent coffee. In 1983 he closed his tailor shop and with his family opened Ginos Café. Since then 3 generations of the Saccone family have run Gino's Cafe and still serve some of the best coffee in Perth – with Rosa’s home style Italian cooking.
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  • Margaret River WA

    April 5, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another on-the-go day packing in as many sights and activities as we could around Margaret River.

    We spent the morning in town fulfilling a special request from Josh for a Margaret River surf t-shirt from Hillzeez, along with West Coast Eagles caps for Anthony, Ryan and Lachie.

    Then it was off south to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, reportedly the tallest on mainland Australia, presiding over the treacherous seas where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet.

    As we made our way back up the coast road we stopped for a tour of Lake Cave, with the largest intact suspended table formation in the world! Although not a big cave (just 80m long) it had a number of interesting features that when lit up presented a rather spectacular scene.

    Next stop, Surfers Point and Southside surf breaks at the mouth of the Margaret River itself. They were in the process of setting up for the Margaret River Pro event later in the month. Pity we missed it by just a few weeks. The beach wasn’t what we’d expected. It truly is for surfers only. We were surprised it appeared to be a rock shelf. However, the break was interesting, apparently called an a-frame wave caused by opposing swells from the Southern and Indian oceans.

    And of course last but not least, no trip to Margaret River would be complete without visiting the wineries. Voyager Estate was by far our favourite and an excellent recommendation. We might need an ATM upgrade for the caravan before we leave! Looking forward to joining up with Daniel and Helen in a couple of days time to enjoy the bounty.
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  • Pemberton WA

    April 4, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was essentially a travel day between Albany and Margaret River, with a short detour to climb the Gloucester Tree at Pemberton.

    But first on the agenda was ‘breakfast’ at the Mount Barker Bakery (another great recommendation on Lou’s foodie tour of Albany). Possibly one of the best old school bakeries we’ve been to - so much choice! We opted for the recommended green curry chicken pie (the best!) and classic vanilla slice and were not disappointed. Plus a high-top loaf that was perfect for our sandwich lunch in the forest at Pemberton. I’d like to say we’ll be back, but we must keep moving on.

    The Gloucester Tree certainly was an experience. Originally a fire spotting tower, the enormous Karri tree is now open for visitors to climb the ladder to appreciate spectacular views over the forest. Anthony made it to the top, while Lachie and I went part way up before returning to take pics from below. Some poor planning on our part meant the big camera and zoom lens were locked in the van with the keys in Anthony’s pocket some 53m above. Look for a tiny little figure amongst the branches - that will be Anthony!

    Our pre-purchased WA Parks Pass is paying dividends. We have used it many times already and definitely recouped it’s value.

    After checking in at Margaret River Tourist Park, we made a quick dash to Xanadu Winery for essential supplies before checking out the town and retiring for dinner in the van.
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  • Rainbow Coast WA

    April 3, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning as we set out in a shower of rain, we thought we might see first hand why the region around Albany is known as the 'Rainbow Coast'. But true to our local guide’s word, the rain was short-lived and followed thereafter by patches of sun (sadly no rainbows).

    We headed along the South Coast Highway towards Denmark and Walpole. The Valley of the Giants famous Tree Top Walk was pretty cool, comprising a series of platforms and suspension bridges reaching 40m above the forest floor! Sadly my childhood memory of driving through the hollow of a giant Red Tingle tree wasn’t to be relived, as it turns out such activity (including by generations before us) ultimately played a part in killing the tree, with its surprisingly shallow root system destroyed by years of ground compaction. Fortunately, the WA Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions is now actively correcting the errors of the past and protecting these magnificent trees and forests so we may appreciate them for years to come.

    As the sun came out, we headed for William Bay National Park and another of my childhood memories - Greens Pool. We also checked out nearby Elephant Rocks and Waterfall Beach. They are each spectacular swimming spots in their own right, so it’s unfair to say we were underwhelmed. But we all agreed they just didn’t compare to Lucky Bay and Cape Le Grande NP. We’ve been ruined, no beach will compare!

    Returning to town we explored the Brig Amity to experience what life would have been like aboard one of the convict ships that came to the West Coast of Australia in 1826.

    We ended another great day with dinner at Due South, a funky casual restaurant down by the waterfront, to celebrate our last night in Albany and farewell Lou and Darcey (and Harry). It’s been so good to catch up xx
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  • Torndirrup NP

    April 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Next stop on the Albany adventure tour was Torndirrup NP, including The Gap and Natural Bridge with their outstanding views of the Southern Ocean and some of WA’s most exposed coastline 40m below! Then off to stunning Frenchman's Bay and the old historic Whaling Station.

    Fun Fact: The Cheynes Beach Whaling Company was the last whaling company to cease operations in Australia, closing in 1978.

    Interestingly, we've learned that 'up' - a suffix commonly found in place names in south-western Western Australia - means "place of" in the local Noongar dialect. Places tended to be named after their distinctive features, whereby the place names could be used to create a 'mental map' allowing Indigenous Australians to determine where water, food and other raw materials could be found. These sites were often located near sources of fresh water, leading to the common misconception that 'up' means "near water".

    In this case, Torndirrup - meaning ‘white sandy’ or 'place of white sand hills' - is a fitting description of this spectacular area of coastline, with its dazzling powder-fine (almost) pure quartz dunes and beaches.

    After returning to Albany and checking in at the BIG4 Middleton Beach we drove up to the National ANZAC Centre and Memorial with just enough time to absorb the stunning views over the town and port before heading back to the van for ‘happy hour’ with Lou, Harry and Darcey.
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  • Albany WA

    April 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Another spectacular WA day spent exploring the sights around Albany.

    First on the list of adventures was Granite SkyWalk at Castle Rock in the Porongurup NP. A challenging 2.2 km steep uphill climb with the last part being a literal scramble over big granite boulders and up a ladder to the top. But what a view - a complete 360 degree panorama of the surrounding countryside! It was definitely worth it but my legs are surely feeling it now.

    A quick detour back to Lou's place to pick up the caravan and we're off again to explore some more of beautiful Albany...
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  • Napier WA

    April 1, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Today’s drive from Esperance to Albany felt like the longest of our trip so far. We passed some picturesque farm lands and silo art, along with some large areas of burnt out bush. It was interesting to see the regrowth of the native ‘BlackBoys’ (grass trees).

    But the highlight for the day was our long awaited catch-up with Louise, Harry and Darcey who generously hosted us at their fabulous farm just 20 mins outside of Albany. Sadly we missed Matt by a few days, but his presence was nonetheless felt and certainly appreciated through his amazing beer fridge (we especially loved the ginger beer!). We spent a lovely evening exploring the farm and chatting over dinner.

    Absolutely Lachlan’s highlight of the stay was Harry taking him out for a spin on both the ‘side-by-side’ and quad bike, and bravely letting him drive! The smile on Lachie’s face was priceless. Big thanks Harry - you made his day. He’s still talking about it.

    To top it off, we’ve come away with some amazing fresh farm produce - crunchy red apples, delicious pears, free range eggs and the best figs I’ve ever tasted. So welcome after having to travel without fresh fruit and veges as we crossed the State borders.
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  • Cape Le Grande NP

    March 31, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Today was another superb bucket-list day exploring the many bays and beaches of beautiful Cape Le Grande National Park. With its super fine white sand and magical turquoise waters, it really is proof that Australia has the best beaches in the world. Highlights included:

    * Frenchman's Peak - A rocky mountain outcrop, the shape of which was thought to resemble the hats worn by French troops in the 1800s (debatable).

    * Lucky Bay - An absolute stunner! It was easy to see how it got its reputation as the best beach in Western Australia. Lachie's highlight here was driving onto the beach itself. I was disappointed not to see a kangaroo on the beach (something it's also famed for). We just weren't there are the right time.

    * Thistle Cove & Whistling Rock - An imposing rock formation that echoed the sound of the sea and waves crashing on the rugged coastline below.

    * Hellfire Bay - A beautiful surf beach, with impossibly white sand and crystal clear turquoise water.

    *Cape Le Grande - Again we were able to drive onto the beach where we ate our picnic lunch from the back of the car. A lovely couple driving past stopped and offered to take our photo. Turns out they were also originally from Sydney (Bella Vista of all places) and are staying in the same caravan park as us. Small world.

    After leaving the NP we checked out Esperance Stonehenge, a complete full-size replica of the original UK monument. Apparently, it was the brainchild of some crazy businessman who planned for it to be constructed in Margaret River. Not surprisingly, he went bankrupt but not before all 137 enormous granite stones had been quarried from a site near Esperance. Fortunately, there was another crazy entrepreneur who completed the project on his farm 'conveniently' located nearby to the quarry.

    Fun Fact: Lachlan calculated each stone to weigh roughly as much as 25 of our caravans. Home school 'tick' for today.

    Heading back into town we stopped for a tasting paddle at the Lucky Bay Brewery, all apparently made with their own distilled water.
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  • Esperance WA

    March 30, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today we officially left the Nullarbor and started our tour around the beautiful south of WA.

    First rest stop on-route was Norseman at the junction of the Eyre Highway and Coolgardie-Esperance Highway. It was a hive of road-train activity including a massive quadruple, the biggest we’ve seen. Fortunately they mostly headed north towards Kalgoorlie - we’ll encounter them on our way home no doubt.

    Today was an easy travel day and relatively uneventful compared to the previous few we’ve had, with nothing particular to report.

    We rolled into Esperance and checked in at the RAC Esperance Caravan Park. Wow! The facilities are spectacular, up there with some of the best we’ve experienced. Our site has its own ensuite bathroom with a huge double sized shower, while the camp kitchen is fully equipped to commercial standards and embarrassingly perhaps better than our own kitchen at home. Plus it’s right opposite the beach. Lucky we booked ahead (9 months ago!) as there’s a big sign stating no vacancies for caravans.

    We drove out to look at ‘Pink Lake’ just out of town. Unfortunately, the information boards at the lookout confirmed it hasn’t been pink since 2007. This intel would have been good before going out there. However, they say it may become pink again when the water temperature and salinity levels create the correct circumstances. I doubt we’ll be back.

    We explored around town and along the waterfront before retreating for the night. Looking forward to exploring Cape Le Grande NP tomorrow.
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  • Balladonia WA

    March 29, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we continued our crossing of the Nullarbor, including the iconic 90 Mile Straight – Australia’s longest straight road (146.6 km). Anyone who thinks this is a boring drive with nothing to see or do must be travelling with their eyes closed. We’ve loved every bit of it and could have even spent an extra day just hanging out at the cliffs! There’s just so much to appreciate about this beautiful country.

    The scenery has changed several times as the highway moved from within a few hundred metres of the coastline to alongside a small mountain range (something we didn’t expect), through pockets of green shrubbery (and dare I say trees) to the iconic treeless plains by which the Nullarbor gets its name. And it’s not entirely flat either, there’s some beautiful lookouts and views. Who knew?

    There’s also other interesting finds, like the emergency landing strips for the Royal Flying Doctor Service down the middle of the highway, random electric vehicle charging points, and all sorts of crazy travellers!

    It’s apparently been quite wet out here recently and puddles are aplenty. Consequently Lachlan is obsessed with driving through mud. He even draw a picture of his dream at dinner last night.

    Tonight we headed for Balladonia, made ‘famous’ as the crash site of NASA’s Skylab space station in 1979. We set up in the Caravan Park beside the roadhouse before exploring the museum and braving the ‘Skylab’ hole of the Nullarbor Links Golf Course. As we found out this is a genuinely challenging Par 3 where accuracy is everything! We were not accurate and spent the next 10 minutes looking for our ball while donating blood one giant mosquito at a time.

    Fun Fact: There was much hilarity when the local Shire Council sent a littering fine to NASA to clean up the fiery chunks of debris that had landed around Balladonia as Skylab re-entered the Earth’s atmosphere. It is also claimed that President Jimmy Carter subsequently rang the roadhouse to apologise for littering the local area.
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  • Eucla WA

    March 28, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    Today has been a real bucket list highlights package. Everything as good if not better than imagined. It was also a day of BIG things: Big Windmill, Big Whale and Big Rooey II.

    Just past the big windmill (Comet) at Penong we commenced our first epic crossing of the Nullarbor Plain. We are amazed at how busy the highway is. We’re continually passing and being passed by caravans, road trains and cyclists would you believe!

    We explored the Head of the Bight Visitor Centre where a series of boardwalks and viewing platforms hang out over the cliffs providing views in all directions. We then stopped at the iconic Nullarbor Roadhouse with the big whale.

    But the absolute highlight of the day was venturing out to the Bunda Cliffs (the longest uninterrupted line of sea cliffs in the world) where we pulled up literally metres from the edge of the continent. The coastline here is spectacular and we even spotted a pod of dolphins playing in the sparkling blue water below. Amazing!

    We pushed on through our second quarantine checkpoint to cross the border into WA. The WA inspection was very relaxed compared to SA. They took our word about no fresh food and were really only concerned about no honey entering WA, whereas at the SA border they literally checked every bag and cupboard in both car and caravan!

    Just beyond the WA border we quickly checked out the ruins of the Old Eucla Telegraph Station, once a pivotal link in cross-country communications now slowly being reclaimed by the sand dunes, before settling in at Eucla Caravan Park for the night.

    Who knows what time we’ll go to bed tonight - having passed through three different time zones today our devices are scrambling to keep up. But who cares - we’re on holidays. What a day! 😊
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  • Ceduna SA

    March 27, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A drizzly and frustrating morning stuck doing 60km/hr behind an oversized load - a train on a truck of all things (a literal road train) - between Iron Knob and Kimba, just outside of Port Augusta. On the plus side we had plenty of time to refine our car karaoke skills and to take in the practicality prehistoric landscape we were travelling through.

    We stopped in Kimba at the Big Gallah Bakery, marking the halfway point between the east and west coasts of Australia. The pies were good but we know for our return trip not to bother with the coffee.

    Meanwhile the oversized load crawled past and once again we were stuck behind doing 60 km/hr. However it was interesting listening to the chatter and guidance from the pilot vehicle on the UHF radio as we patiently waited for the all-clear to overtake.

    Tonight we’re staying at the BIG4 Ceduna ‘Classic’ Caravan Park. It’s neat and tidy and almost completely full. I’m glad we booked ahead as people were being turned away as we checked in.

    Ceduna is a lovely town. It’s like we popped out of the vast lands of SA to a little seaside oasis (all two streets worth at least).

    After a wander around town we indulged in a delicious SA seafood platter at the Ceduna Foreshore Hotel Motel. It did not disappoint. We will sleep well tonight ready to hit the Nullarbor tomorrow.

    Today’s lesson: Always fill up with diesel when you can as there’s no guarantee the next mapped fuel stop exists or even has supply!

    Fun Fact: Ceduna is known as the ‘Gateway to the Nullarbor’ (at least on approach from the east) and is somewhat famous as the opening hole of the ‘Nullarbor Links’ – the world’s longest golf course, where you definitely need a car to get across ‘the green’.
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  • Port Augusta SA

    March 26, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    An interesting travel day today as we zig-zagged our way to Port Augusta via a string of little towns, some quaint and historically charming, others lucky to warrant a dot on the map.

    We stopped just outside the town of Burra at a worn out old homestead made famous on the cover of Midnight Oil’s Diesel & Dust album.

    We learned about Goyder's Line as we crossed it - a line that runs roughly east-west across South Australia and, in effect, joins places with an average annual rainfall of 10 inches. North of Goyder's Line, annual rainfall is usually too low to support cropping, with the land being suitable only for grazing. Who knew?

    We also navigated past our first quadruple road train. Yikes!

    South Australia is clearly leading our nation in renewable energy as we passed two giant solar farms and multiple wind turbines. Plus we discovered Port Augusta has our only SunDrop which uses solar energy to desalinate water.

    Tonight’s accommodation is at Discovery Park Port Augusta, which I’m pleased to say is punching above its weight for this town. It’s pretty full too and we’ve met some fellow travellers from all states. Wish us luck with the ‘locals’ tonight…

    Fun fact: Port Augusta is known as the Crossroads of Australia. If you head north on the Stuart Highway, some 2,722 km later you will be driving into Darwin. Head west on the Eyre Highway and 2,390 km (after you have crossed the Nullarbor Plain) you will reach Perth. Head east, via Broken Hill, and 1,561 km later you’ll be in Sydney and, almost as an afterthought, you can head south and in a mere 310 km you’ll reach Adelaide. Port Augusta really does sit at a crossroads and, by strange serendipity, the roads really do head to the primary points of the compass – north, south, east and west.
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  • Renmark SA

    March 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Three states in one day - NSW, VIC and SA!

    We cruised through Hay, Balranald (where we stopped for lunch by the
    Murrumbidgee River) and Mildura, passed inspection at the SA Quarantine Checkpoint, then onto Renmark for the night, where we stayed at the magnificent BIG4 Riverfront Caravan Park. Dusk overlooking the river was magic.

    We will definitely remember Renmark for the nail-bitingly narrow bridge into town. With a total width allowance of just 3m, there’s not much wiggle room either side for the caravan. I’m proud to say our driver handled it like a pro.

    Dinner at Club Renmark was also spectacular overlooking the mighty Murray River. Interesting to hear the December 2022 flood peaked at just below the height of the balcony where we were dining, which itself is about 4-5 meters above normal river level.

    Morning coffee and a quick dip of our toes in the Murray River and we’re off again towards Port Augusta.
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