• Port Augusta SA

    March 26, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    An interesting travel day today as we zig-zagged our way to Port Augusta via a string of little towns, some quaint and historically charming, others lucky to warrant a dot on the map.

    We stopped just outside the town of Burra at a worn out old homestead made famous on the cover of Midnight Oil’s Diesel & Dust album.

    We learned about Goyder's Line as we crossed it - a line that runs roughly east-west across South Australia and, in effect, joins places with an average annual rainfall of 10 inches. North of Goyder's Line, annual rainfall is usually too low to support cropping, with the land being suitable only for grazing. Who knew?

    We also navigated past our first quadruple road train. Yikes!

    South Australia is clearly leading our nation in renewable energy as we passed two giant solar farms and multiple wind turbines. Plus we discovered Port Augusta has our only SunDrop which uses solar energy to desalinate water.

    Tonight’s accommodation is at Discovery Park Port Augusta, which I’m pleased to say is punching above its weight for this town. It’s pretty full too and we’ve met some fellow travellers from all states. Wish us luck with the ‘locals’ tonight…

    Fun fact: Port Augusta is known as the Crossroads of Australia. If you head north on the Stuart Highway, some 2,722 km later you will be driving into Darwin. Head west on the Eyre Highway and 2,390 km (after you have crossed the Nullarbor Plain) you will reach Perth. Head east, via Broken Hill, and 1,561 km later you’ll be in Sydney and, almost as an afterthought, you can head south and in a mere 310 km you’ll reach Adelaide. Port Augusta really does sit at a crossroads and, by strange serendipity, the roads really do head to the primary points of the compass – north, south, east and west.
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  • Renmark SA

    March 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Three states in one day - NSW, VIC and SA!

    We cruised through Hay, Balranald (where we stopped for lunch by the
    Murrumbidgee River) and Mildura, passed inspection at the SA Quarantine Checkpoint, then onto Renmark for the night, where we stayed at the magnificent BIG4 Riverfront Caravan Park. Dusk overlooking the river was magic.

    We will definitely remember Renmark for the nail-bitingly narrow bridge into town. With a total width allowance of just 3m, there’s not much wiggle room either side for the caravan. I’m proud to say our driver handled it like a pro.

    Dinner at Club Renmark was also spectacular overlooking the mighty Murray River. Interesting to hear the December 2022 flood peaked at just below the height of the balcony where we were dining, which itself is about 4-5 meters above normal river level.

    Morning coffee and a quick dip of our toes in the Murray River and we’re off again towards Port Augusta.
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  • Narrandera NSW

    March 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    It’s good to be in our happy place on the road again.

    We had a smooth run through Yass and Wagga Wagga to Narrandera for the night, staying at Lake Talbot Caravan Park where we scored a beautiful grassy (drive-through) slab site overlooking the lake.

    Our reception couldn’t have been better. At check-in we were greeted with a surprise gift (and I dare say preferential treatment) courtesy of our amazing neighbours who call Narrandera home. Happy hour was sorted for night one and we couldn’t be off to a better start to our holiday!

    Our new mate Chris at reception then gave us a hot tip for dinner at the Ex-Serviceman’s Club and even sorted us a courtesy bus. The steak was delicious. It just keeps getting better.

    Sadly just a short overnight stop in this lovely country town before we head west again in the morning.

    Already we’re missing Josh and Ryan but take comfort in knowing they’re in good hands and look forward to reuniting with them in Perth in a couple of weeks time.
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  • Ready to Roll

    March 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    After 12 months of planning and anticipation, tomorrow is finally D-Day!

    Our home for the next (nearly) 8 weeks is packed and ready to go - not to mention probably the most organised it will ever be.

    Featuring:
    * 4 ‘bedrooms’ with built in wardrobes
    * Combined bath/laundry
    * Open plan kitchen & dining
    * Expansive outdoor living
    All in an easy to maintain layout offering comfort and versatility in convenient locations with ever-changing views.

    Let the adventure begin!
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  • The Journey starts here

    September 7, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today is an exciting day as we take possession of our new home away from home. The faithful old ‘Panda’ (Expanda) has been sold to make way for our shiny new ‘Journey’.

    We will no doubt miss the generous space and versatility of the tardis-like Expanda, but it’s time to go longer and further and to more remote places, so we’ve gone all-in and upgraded to full travel luxury, comparatively speaking of course. With no pop-outs or build-it-yourself parts (even the awning is automatic!) we hope that even less time and effort spent setting up the caravan means more time enjoying our trip – although our travel buddies may miss the spectacle of a good domestic during the setting-up-of the-campsite process. 😉

    There’s a few things that are new to us with this van that we’ll need to get used to and figure out as we go – like how many pies will fit in the oven at once, how many socks and undies can we squeeze into a single washing machine cycle, how do we empty the grey water tank and most importantly how to avoid splashback at the dump point!

    The challenge now is to pack and figure out where everything goes. It’s more involved than it first appears. This van is heavier than our last, so we’re necessarily more conscious of weight and the need to pack appropriately. Its easy to do and we’re all a little bit guilty of packing more than needed ‘just in case’. I was amazed how much stuff we had accumulated in the Expanda! There will definitely be a cull as we re-pack the Journey in favour of the pragmatic ‘less-is-more’ philosophy.

    To the boys’ amusement, I have channelled my inner nerd and created a spreadsheet to calculate the weight of each item that goes back in – from BBQ (16 kg) to 5 x toothbrushes (0.02 kg) and everything in between. Of course, a few things are non-negotiable like coffee machine (9 kg) and case of wine (14 kg) – ok maybe two cases, we are going to Margaret River!

    So far, we’re theoretically under our ATM with full water tanks and gas bottles, but with food and clothes still to come… I’ve also calculated our GVM and GCM with all five of us in the car. Again, we’re looking good and dare I say even have capacity to put on weight, which I’m pretty sure is inevitable. Regardless, a quick roll over a weighbridge is on the agenda before we head off, just to be sure.

    It’s not for everyone, but we’re excited for where our ‘Journey’ will take us. Now it’s off to K-Mart to ‘Marie Kondo’ it with storage solutions.
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  • Siding Springs Observatory

    April 15, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Known as the ‘Gateway to the Warrumbungles’ and the ‘Astronomy Capital of Australia’, Coonabarabran is a mix of natural beauty and science.

    The Solar System Drive, a scale model of the solar system that stretches for over 200 km, was a fun and unexpected way to track our journey through the cosmos as we made our way up the mountain to the Siding Spring Observatory. Starting from the Sun in town and ending at Pluto near the observatory, each planet has its own roadside sign and model, scaled both in size and distance.

    We explored the Visitor Centre, with its interactive displays and a short film, before joining a guided tour of the 3.9m Anglo-Australian Telescope, Australia’s largest optical telescope. The view from the top was fantastic, a full 360° panorama of the surrounding countryside, albeit deceptively chilly.
    An impromptu selfie in the car park with my own real-life superstar Liz Ellis, was definitely a highlight!

    As the sun set, we visited the Dark Sky Observatory for a 90-minute stargazing session, including a live astronomy presentation and the chance to look through up to six telescopes, including a 20-inch scope. The sky was perfectly clear, making the Milky Way feel close enough to touch.
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  • Green Car Door Tour

    April 13, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    This afternoon we completed the Green Car Door Tour, with highlights including the iconic Opal Tree, Stone Labyrinth (reportedly made by just four people in six hours) and Beer Can House (look us up in the guest book in the fridge inside).

    It was at the Opal Tree that we stumbled upon Richard, an English-born eccentric (aka madman) who’s made this wacky corner of the outback home for more than 17 years. Next to his roadside Love Shack ‘Enlightning Ridge’, Richard’s pièce de résistance would have to be his towering milk crate robot covered in teddy bears, built as a tribute to his emotionally repressed great-grandfather - actually creepier than it sounds. Richard was equal parts fascinating, amusing and unsettling. But either way, a true character who fit right in with the wonderfully weird vibe of Lightning Ridge.

    As the sky faded into dusk, we headed to Nettleton's First Shaft Lookout for a magnificent sunset happy hour overlooking the vast desert plains of outback NSW. We all agreed you don’t just visit Lightning Ridge, you experience it.

    Fun fact: Lightning supposedly never strikes twice but one fateful evening in the 1870s, a beleaguered shepherd, his dog and a flock of more than 200 sheep were peppered with lightning strikes as they sheltered among trees, charring like minute steaks on a piping-hot barbecue. Folklore says this is how Lightning Ridge earned its name.
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  • Blue & Red Car Door Tours

    April 13, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    This morning, we completed the Blue and Red Car Door Tours.

    First up - Blue Tour. We headed out through the opal mine fields, locally known as 'the suburbs', before stopping briefly to explore Bevan's Cactus Garden with over 2,500 cactus varieties and 48 Bougainvillea varieties. Interesting, but not really our thing.

    Next up was the Walk-in Mine Tour. This was pretty cool and being self-guided meant we could move at our own pace.

    Being one of the shorter Car Door Tours, we quickly moved on to the Red Tour. We passed the plaque sharing information on the first settlement in 1906 called Wallangulla or 'Old Town', which is where the first Opal Rush boomed. We then stopped to marvel at the Stone & Bottle House - an interestingly constructed private home made entirely of, would you believe, stones and bottles, and filled with collectables!

    Just a bit further along the road we stopped to explore the Ridge Castle. It was in fact an Airbnb property, but as with most things in Lightning Ridge, it wasn't your typical lodging.

    Moving on, we noted some other interesting sights including Sim’s Hill - the highest point in the district, astronomers' monument - a very cool homemade observatory, and a KFC Drive-thru (although it never seems to be open LOL).

    But the highlight of this tour was definitely Amigos Castle - a unique and fascinating private home. The castle was built by Vittorio Stefanato, also known as Amigo, who was born in Italy and moved to Australia in 1970. The castle is built with stones and planks quarried on site, and Amigo has been expanding it since 1982. The castle sits atop dinosaur bones that are millions of years old - not officially catalogued but locally known as 'Amigosaurus'.

    The underground tunnels and secrets of the Castle were closed the day we were there as it turns out Amigo had been sentenced to at least 13 years and seven months in jail for murdering a local woman in January 2020. He shot her point blank with a rifle after she asked him for money and then hid her body in the bushland. He pleaded guilty to the murder in October 2021. I think I'm glad we missed his 'private' tour!
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  • Grawin NSW

    April 12, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Today we conquered the Orange Car Door Tour which took us an hour's drive west of town to the famous Grawin, Glengary and Sheepyard opal fields. If you thought Lightning Ridge was in the middle of nowhere, you haven't been to Grawin!

    Unlike the native bush environment around Lightning Ridge, the landscape out here is comparable to the surface of the moon.

    First stop - Club in the Scrub, a fantastically quirky and authentic Miners Sports Bar, complete with 'Beer & Bullsh*t' area. Who would believe it's an actual RSL club, and you’ve got to sign in!

    Next up, the Glengarry Hilton. Apparently, the outback pub was built to satisfy the thirsty needs of those who came to try their luck on the ever-popular opal fields in the 1970s. With very low expectations we braved lunch from the shipping-container kitchen, only to be served perhaps the most succulently delicious burgers ever - even if there's a high possibility the patties were mouse meat!

    Moving on the boys indulged their noodling fever in the many piles of white dirt alongside buildings and the sides of roads. Unfortunately, the giant mullock heaps that have been known to present surprise pieces of opal are now off-limits to the general public for safety reasons.

    Last on the tourist trail was Sheepyard Inn (jokingly referred to as ‘the best baaaaa in the outback’) with its eclectic collection of historical memorabilia, including an old train carriage that came from Sydney’s Taronga Zoo. And who could forget the impressive 'bra-tree'. I'll leave it to the imagination as to whether I made a donation ;)

    Finally, we stopped at the War Memorial, built by local miners, many of whom are Vietnam Veterans.

    Grawin was definitely a highlight and worth the day-trip for a glimpse of how Lightning Ridge itself probably would have been in the early days.
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  • Yellow Car Door Tour

    April 11, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Today we followed the Yellow Car Door Tour, a self-guided driving trail that took us through some of Lightning Ridge’s quirkiest and most iconic sights.

    First stop was the Big Opal Mine and Jewellery Store where we braved the self-guided underground tour – let’s just say the rusty spiral staircase made things feel very authentic! Interesting, though not exactly WHS approved.

    We also stopped at Lunatic Lookout, where you can gaze out across the mining fields and spot the air vents that lead down into the maze of mines below. This is also the spot where the legendary (and never found) “Halley’s Comet” black opal is said to be buried.

    A definite highlight was the Chambers of the Black Hand, where we followed a guided tour through an old opal mine filled with amazing wall carvings. From Egyptian gods to superheroes, the art carved straight into the sandstone is impressive, weird and wonderful. Many say it's the best attraction in Lightning Ridge, and we can see why.

    We also visited the under-construction Australian Opal Centre, a two-storey building built entirely underground, with big plans to become a world-class opal museum. Nearby, the Black Opal Heritage Shed and the Graveyard of Rusty Treasures gave us even more glimpses into Ridge history and mining life, with a collection of vintage trucks and machinery slowly returning to the earth.

    And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any more random, we posed for a 'selfie' with Stanley the Emu – a towering 18-metre sculpture made entirely from recycled materials, standing proudly by the Castlereagh Highway.

    A day of dust, underground adventures and one very tall bird. Classic Lightning Ridge.
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  • Lightning Ridge NSW

    April 10, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We came the long way, but we've made it to Lightning Ridge!

    We're staying the Opal Caravan Park, just 200m from the hot bore baths, and it's fabulous. We have a huge drive through site with our own ensuite.

    'The Ridge' is unlike anywhere else. As a town, it is a bizarre and compelling combination of rural sophistication vs wildly eccentric. On one hand, the main street is sealed, curbed and guttered and has rows of regular shops - and evidently there is a lot of money around. On the other hand, it seems perfectly normal that there's a house made from bottles and a rough cement 'castle' casually referred to as the Astronomer's Monument. And it's all surrounded by a moonscape of mullock heaps under which literally hundreds of obsessed miners search and dig for the black opals which have made the town famous.

    We love all the quirkiness that Lightning Ridge has to offer. Everywhere you look there's a little joke or dig at conformity to be found if you open your eyes.

    But perhaps the best part of the Lightning Ridge experience for me is sous-viding ourselves in the famous hot pool. The Lightning Ridge Bore Baths, which are the result of an artesian bore sunk by local graziers in the 1960s, provide a permanent supply of warm (more accurately described as HOT) mineralised waters bubbling up from 900m below the surface.

    It is definitely a special experience to sit in the hot pool, especially on a cool April night, and gaze up at the vast outback skies. I've never been so completely relaxed, nor slept better. I could do this every night ☺️
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  • Cunnamulla QLD

    April 9, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 32 °C

    Given the direct route from Bourke to Lightning Ridge is closed at Brewarrina/Walgett due to flooding, we decided the best way around would be via Cunnumulla. And that's how we find ourselves in Outback Queensland!

    It does mean we've departed Bourke a day ahead of schedule, but that's no great loss. Sadly the last paddle boat ride was the day before we arrived. Today the river is too high and the boat won’t fit under the power lines.

    I think we are all comfortable we've seen enough of Bourke!

    I have to say there's not much at Cunnumulla, except of course the great Cunnumulla Fella - the fictional stockman immortalised in song by Slim Dusty, whose eponymous statue now sits proudly in the town centre.

    We set up in the Cunnumulla Tourist Park and after scraping the copious number of splatted bugs off the front of the car and caravan, retreated for a quiet night.
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  • Bourke NSW

    April 8, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We’ve made it to Bourke and I can officially now tick off two bucket list items:
    *The longest straight road in NSW
    *Being able to say I’ve been out ‘Back-O’Bourke’.

    At the Back O’ Bourke Discovery Centre we learned about the first inhabitants of the area alongside some of the resilient pioneers, through storytelling, multimedia exhibits and a wraparound theatre experience.

    The centre highlighted the significance of the river, reminding us that water is life, and as Henry Lawson once famously said, “If you know Bourke, you know Australia” we did feel connected to the cultural and environmental roots of this landscape.

    Tonight we’re staying at Kidman’s Camp on the northern side of town and we’re very pleased with this selection. It’s like a little oasis in the middle of nowhere and thankfully punching well above its weight for the area.

    We explored around town and down by the river with its huge multi- story wharf - a hangover from when the river was the main form of transportation and trade.

    The mighty Darling River was in flood and we nervously watched on as some local kids backflipped from the top deck into the very swiftly flowing water. That was our cue to the heck get out of there before we became key witnesses in a sad misadventure story.
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  • The Dish

    April 7, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Today we visited the iconic CSIRO Radio Telescope on the outskirts of Parkes (affectionally known as 'The Dish' thanks to the 2000 Australian historical comedy-drama film of the same name). Towering above the surrounding fields it’s hard to fathom that this enormous structure has been listening to the universe since the 1960s.

    The boys were amazed to learn that The Dish helped beam the Apollo 11 moon landing to Earth 52 years ago. Even more incredible, that most of the historic footage we’ve seen over the years was transmitted via this telescope right here in rural NSW.

    Inside the Visitor Discovery Centre, we explored interactive exhibits explaining how radio astronomy works and learned about how scientists use the dish to study galaxies billions of light years away. The boys particularly enjoyed 'listening' to space and contemplating whether aliens might be out there trying to contact us.

    After wandering around the grounds, we relaxed at the cafe where we watched on in awe every few minutes as the dish slowly turned and repositioned. An amazing piece of engineering! It is a must-see when travelling through this part of the country.

    P.S. The Dish remains a part of NASA missions to this day. And it's still in the middle of a sheep paddock.
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  • Condobolin NSW

    April 6, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    After setting up camp in Parkes, we made the hour or so long trip to check out Condobolin’s Utes in the Paddock - a unique and quirky display of Australian art on the iconic Holden Ute. There are currently nearly 20 Utes on display painted by some of the best outback artists.

    The story goes... While travelling Route 66 on a trip across the United States, Graham Pickles and his wife Jana were drawn to an unusually popular attraction named “Cadillac Ranch”, located in west Texas near Amarillo. Intrigued by the ranch’s popularity, the 'Utes in the Paddock' concept grew from a whimsical ‘what if’ and in August 2007 the Utes team began working on the project. Utes were donated by residents from the area who caught the ‘utes bug’ after learning that many of Australia’s most gifted outback artists were donating their time and talent to create this unique tribute to life in the bush.

    It was fabulous, I love this sort of outback quirk and ingenuity. Must say though, the trusty charcoal Hilux has to win best Ute in the paddock on the day, right? 😉
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  • Parkes NSW

    April 6, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    On the road again, heading north-west.

    After a delightful bakery brunch in beautiful Forbes, we rolled into Parkes soon after lunch and quickly set up at the Spicer Caravan Park on a handy drive-through ensuite site. Without delay, we jumped back in the car and continued heading west to check out the Utes in the Paddock installation at Condobolin. More on that to come...

    Back in town, we explored the Henry Parkes Museum - named after Sir Henry Parkes, often referred to as the Father of Federation - showcasing a treasure trove of national and local heritage, and checked out the King’s Castle Elvis Exhibit, boasting the largest collection of Elvis Presley memorabilia in the Southern Hemisphere. Full of sequins, jumpsuits, vintage vinyl, and even a pink Cadillac, this was clearly a highlight. We'll have to come back one January for the iconic Elvis Festival!

    Fun fact: In 1981 Parkes locals, Bob and Anne Steel, opened a restaurant and reception centre, which they named Graceland in honour of 'The King'. In 1992 an Elvis themed party was held at Graceland for the editor of the local paper. Someone came up with the idea of turning the party into an annual event and so, in 1993, 200 people came to a festival which comprised Elvis movies, a Tribute Concert, Elvis Lookalike and Soundalike competitions, and a street parade. It has just kept on growing from those humble origins. Today it attracts over 18,000 people to the town for a 5-day festival celebrating all things Elvis.
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  • Japanese Gardens & POW Camp

    April 5, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Today we were moved by the essential decency of the country people who in 1944 were (and still are today) capable of reaching beyond racism and hatred and seeing the humanity and cultural differences which define Japan.

    First up, we stopped at the Visitor Information Centre to watch the story of the Prisoners of War (POW) outbreak as told by the hologram of a small girl, a resident of Cowra, who describes the events of 5 August 1944 when 378 Japanese POWs escaped from the camp over the hill from the town. The display is beautifully executed and well worth the time.

    Next up, we explored the actual site of the Cowra POW Camp and the Cowra Breakout. With four compounds of just six hectares each, it was hard to imagine how over 4,000 prisoners - mostly Italians, Germans and Japanese - once fitted in. A solemn but tranquil resting place.

    But the highlight of our visit to Cowra was the superb Japanese Garden and Cultural Centre, established with the aid of the Japanese Government in 1978-79 to honour both Australian and Japanese dead.

    Last but not least, we gave the World Peace Bell (a replica of the original which hangs in the United Nations Building in New York) a loud and proud ring to acknowledge how the dramatic trauma in the history of the district has led the town to focus on and promote the values of pacifism and internationalism.
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  • Cowra NSW

    April 4, 2021 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Today we headed out over the Blue Mountains, detouring to complete a lap of Mount Panorama (caravan in tow!) to the charming country town of Cowra, where we’ll be staying at the Cowra Caravan Park for the next couple of nights. We have a lovely big site along the banks of the Lachlan River, complete with a family of curious possums.

    We ended the day with a stunning sunset happy hour and picnic dinner at Bellevue Hill Lookout and Fauna Reserve, with its panoramic views over the Lachlan Valley and town.
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