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Lisbon to Brussel
  • Jim Cochran
  • Lisa DeShano
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  • Jim Cochran
  • Lisa DeShano

Lisbon to Brussel

Lisa and I are pedaling from Lisbon to Belgium, sharing two months of adventure, beautiful places, old friends, new friends, laughter, love, and the simple joy of traveling together. En savoir plus
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    Vu pour la dernière fois à
    Vega de Pas
    Lisbon to Brussel
    1

    Wrong Turns, Rock Music, and Two Passes

    24 septembre, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Day 24: Puente Viesgo to Vega de Pas (61 miles / 6265 ft.)

    Have you ever had one of those days when you kept making wrong turns? That was exactly how our morning started. It felt like we had never toured before and were just learning how to read a map. Maybe all the coastal traffic and crowds had thrown us off our game, but we finally shook it off once we reached the mountains and countryside.

    The route gradually carried us into the Valles Pasiegos, three green valleys shaped by the Miera, Pisueña, and Pas rivers. Cows grazed on steep hillsides among scattered stone cabins traditionally used by farming families as they moved their animals between seasonal pastures.

    The beautiful weather continued, and mushrooms were springing up along the damp roadsides. Autumn mushroom gathering is a popular tradition across northern Spain, where the cool temperatures, frequent rain, and forests create ideal conditions. We also encountered plenty of motorcycles enjoying the winding mountain roads.

    We knew our two biggest climbs were waiting late in the day. The first followed the Miera River deep into the narrowest and most rugged of the three valleys. Somewhere across the valley, a rock band was practicing. We never saw them, but their music echoed through the mountains and gave us an uplifting distraction from the climbing.

    The final section to Alto del Caracol gained roughly 1,150 feet in less than three miles at an average near 7%, topping out around 2,675 feet. From the summit, we could look back into the Miera Valley before enjoying a magnificent twisting descent into the Pisueña Valley.

    Then came La Braguía, our second mountain pass. It climbed for about five miles, gaining more than 1,500 feet at nearly 6%. Whenever we climb these mountains, the reward of looking back into the valley and seeing how far we have come makes every bit of tough riding worthwhile. This is the kind of touring we love, far more than fighting traffic through coastal cities.

    From La Braguía, we descended through open pastures, stone walls, and Pasiego cabins into the Pas Valley and Vega de Pas. Crossing two mountain passes late in the ride made it a tough day, but the descents into those valleys were some of the most beautiful riding we have ever experienced.

    We reached our rural accommodation around 5:30, completed our usual “chores,” and walked into town looking for dinner. We found the only place open, but naturally, they didn’t begin serving until 8:30. That gave us an hour to decipher the menu and talk about the day.

    With help from our very patient waitress, we ordered cocido montañés, Cantabria’s traditional mountain stew made with white beans, berza greens, and different cuts of pork. We also shared a pizza and a bottle of Spanish red wine. It was the perfect dinner after a long mountain day.

    Afterward, we enjoyed a quiet moonlit walk back to our hotel through the cool mountain air.

    Until mañana. ❤️

    P.S. A mile 39.1 we have 1000 miles for the trip so far.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1

    Sunrise, Shortcuts, and Spanish Tortilla

    23 septembre, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day 23: Llanes → Vargas (62 miles / 5,780 ft.)

    We woke early to catch the sunrise peeking over the Bay of Biscay, then started climbing. It became another beautifully picturesque day of climbing and descending through green mountains and river valleys.

    We passed through Colombres, known for its grand “Indiano” homes built by emigrants who returned wealthy from the Americas. After crossing from Asturias into Cantabria, we followed the Nansa River and stopped to watch the fish below.

    Of course, I found us another nice shortcut. It followed a trail that was almost rideable, which means it was mostly unrideable.

    Later we found a café where two coffees, a slice of tortilla española, and a chocolate croissant still cost about half what we would expect to pay in the United States.

    The route continued through Cabezón de la Sal, a town historically connected to salt production, and along parts of the old Camino Real through Riocorvo and Cartes. This centuries-old road once connected Spain’s northern coast with the Castilian plateau.

    A swarm of motorcycles added some extra excitement to our final descent into the Vargas area. We ended at a lovely guesthouse in the countryside, where we ate a tapas-style dinner on the terrace while watching the sunset. Afterward, the owner and another couple joined us for a long conversation about travel, kindness, politics, food, and nearly everything else. It was a wonderful mixture of Spanish and English, helped along by an owner who loved practicing his English.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1111

    Clouds, Blowholes, and a Dinosaur Egg

    22 septembre, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Day 22: Arriondas to Llanes (40 miles / ___ ft.)

    We woke in Arriondas with the town once again engulfed in clouds. After another beautiful breakfast spread, we started along the cool Sella River before climbing through Bode and Tresmonte into the hills between Monte Moru and the Sierra del Sueve.

    Eventually, we climbed above the clouds and caught our first view of the Bay of Biscay, something Lisa had dreamed of seeing since she was a little girl. We stopped near the top and looked toward the brilliant blue ocean while clouds still filled the valleys behind us. From that peaceful mountain viewpoint, it took only about five minutes of descending to reach the beach.

    We stopped for coffee and a snack, then walked along the shore searching for sea glass. Lisa found what may be the largest rock anyone has ever decided to carry on a bicycle tour. It resembles a dinosaur egg and it’s a perfect souvenir for Gopal!

    After passing through Ribadesella, where the Sella River reaches the sea, we continued east along sections of the Camino del Norte. Pilgrims normally walk west toward Santiago, so once again we had a steady stream of Camino walkers coming toward us.

    Before reaching the Bufones de Pría, we found a vending machine and bought two icy cold Cokes. Our hotel had encouraged us to pack sandwiches from breakfast, giving us everything we needed for a magnificent picnic near the cliffs.

    The bufones are blowholes created by waves entering caves beneath the limestone cliffs. The trapped water and air become pressurized and escape through openings in the ground, producing geyser-like sprays and a deep roaring or whistling sound. The ocean was fairly calm, so we didn’t see the giant sprays they can produce during rough weather, but hearing and feeling the air rushing through the rocks was still impressive.

    Then came the most adventurous part of the day. Our route became a narrow, rocky singletrack that was nearly impossible to ride. Sharp rose bushes and sticker bushes crowded both sides of the trail and large rocks from the singletrack. At one point Lisa disappeared behind me, and I later learned she had fallen directly into the stickers while being attached to her pedal!

    We finally escaped the craziness and reached a gravel road that felt as smooth as pavement. From there, we continued along the coast through small villages and past one beautiful beach after another. The water here is locally called the Cantabrian Sea, the southern portion of the Bay of Biscay. Its English name comes from Biscay, the Basque province farther east.

    Traffic increased as we approached Llanes, but so did the scenery. Limestone cliffs, hidden coves, green pastures, and blue water seemed to surround us. We arrived in Llanes, a medieval fishing and whaling town squeezed between the sea and the mountains.

    Our hotel check-in couldn’t have been easier. The woman was friendly and immediately helped us secure the bikes in the hotel garage, which always brings a huge sense of relief. After cleaning up, we ventured back out to find a laundromat and some dinner. Naturally, we found a kebab shop, because that is often what we do. It was good, easy, and perfectly timed while our laundry dried.

    We dropped everything back at the room and went out once more to enjoy the town and the sunset. Every day seems to get better, and the pictures will never fully capture this one. We took plenty of video too, so maybe another Instagram video will appear under Jimboyvw or JimC.

    What a day!    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    12

    Loving Asturias Riding!

    21 septembre, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Day 21: Oviedo to Arriondas (48 miles / 4610 ft.)

    Surprisingly, we slept well despite the late night bar scene outside our hostel. A full breakfast spread got us started, and we walked to the parking garage to find our bikes still safely hidden under the cardboard. We rode back to load them up, taking care on Oviedo’s slick stone streets while cleaning crews hosed away the remains of last night’s San Mateo festivities. We passed the cathedral, listened to its bells for a bit, and within three miles were out in the countryside.

    Then the fun began. Low clouds rested in the mountains, sunshine warmed us as we pushed east, and the roads wound past cows, horses, apple trees, vineyards, and green pastures. Farmers had been moving cattle between fields, leaving plenty of evidence on the road. We also saw about ten cyclists, mostly older gentlemen on road bikes. Then I remembered I probably fit that description myself.

    The hills gave us a ridiculous rhythm: descend at 30 or 40 mph, then immediately shift into our easiest gears and climb the next one at 4.5 mph, sometimes on a 14% grade. Some winding stretches reminded me of Kentucky. A few open views almost looked like Iowa, though the mountains quickly put an end to that thought.

    Around mile 30, we stopped to eat the croissants we’d saved from breakfast. By then the morning clouds were lifting, and we just kept enjoying the ride through the hills toward Arriondas. We were near the Sierra del Sueve, with the Picos de Europa farther east. The coast is close, too: the Sella River runs from Arriondas to the sea at Ribadesella.

    Rather than fight for a spot at a crowded café, we bought snacks and drinks at the grocery store and had a picnic in a park along the river before our 4:00 hotel check-in. Now we’re relaxing and planning a quiet evening, maybe with a stroll by the water when it cools down. It was chilly this morning but warmed to about 75°F, just about perfect.

    Lisa and I keep catching ourselves saying, “This is the best day.” Today really was some of the best riding we’ve ever had.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    11

    A Rest Day, Asturian Style

    20 septembre, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Day 20: Grado to Oviedo (26 miles / 3700 ft.)

    We went to bed under clear skies and woke with our hostel completely engulfed in fog. After breakfast, we hit the road for our “rest day,” which somehow became nearly 30 miles and and 3,700 feet of climbing.

    We began with an easy coast into Grado for its Sunday market. We wandered among booths filled with cheap shoes and clothing, produce, meats, honey, and local cheeses. We left with honeycomb, cured sausage, and a piece of four-month-aged Afuega’l Pitu blancu, one of Asturias’s oldest cow’s-milk cheeses. We chose the white variety without paprika.

    From Grado, we followed the Río Nalón valley before climbing away from the river toward Oviedo. We had discussed skipping Monte Naranco and having something closer to a real rest day, but the weather was beautiful and we were enjoying the ride, so up we went.

    The long climb led to the Monument to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, standing high above Oviedo with its arms stretched over the city. We weren’t alone. Tourists arrived by car, hikers walked up, and quite a few cyclists made the climb before bombing back down.

    At the top, we met a couple from Florida who had hiked up. Most of the other hikers looked like they had barely exercised, but these two were covered in dirt and looked as though they had been backpacking for days. They were ready to find a taxi for the trip down. We enjoyed our snack, the views, and then earned our reward with a fast descent into Oviedo.

    For more than 24 hours, we had been worrying about our hotel’s rule forbidding bicycles. Separating ourselves from the bikes is never our favorite thing. We rode first to the recommended parking garage, unsure whether they had received my email. The attendant greeted us kindly, led us to a tucked-away corner, and then said in his best English, “It’s free.” Once again, a small act of kindness nearly brought tears to my eyes.

    We unloaded everything at the hotel, rode back in our street shoes, locked the bikes deep inside the garage, and piled cardboard around them for a little extra camouflage. With security cameras watching, we decided they would be safe for the night.

    After showers, snacks, and some rest, we headed into Oviedo for the San Mateo Festival. Oviedo is now the capital of Asturias, but it was also the capital of the medieval Kingdom of Asturias. Each September, San Mateo transforms its historic streets into a huge celebration with live music, food stands, local vendors, children’s activities, street performers, and fireworks.

    We casually wandered through the crowds, listened to music, and eventually split a pizza. On our way back, we found a quieter live performance and stopped for a while. We were too tired to make it to the 10:00 p.m. fireworks, which may have been a wise decision. Our street was lined with pubs advertising hours from 11:30 p.m. until 5:00 a.m., so whether we actually got a restful night remained to be seen.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1
    1

    Grado! Downhill, Until It Wasn’t.

    19 septembre, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Day 19: El Puerto to Grado (45 miles / 1585 ft.)

    After so many days of climbing, this was a day we had been looking forward to. Since we were starting at the top of the mountain, we hoped for an easier ride and good weather for the descent. We were not disappointed.

    It was strange waking at 8:00 a.m. with the village still dark, the sun hidden behind the mountains. At least the restaurant didn’t back out on breakfast! We were the first ones downstairs, apparently still early by Spanish standards.

    For nearly the first 15 miles, we barely needed to pedal. We probably could have broken some speed records, but kept it between 25 and 30 mph, stopping frequently for pictures that could never capture the magnificent landscape. From El Puerto, we descended through Somiedo Natural Park, following the Río Somiedo between steep green mountains. We passed through tunnels cut directly into the rock, with the cool air and sound of rushing water echoing around us.

    The drivers here continue to impress us. Even on narrow mountain roads, they patiently waited until there was a safe place to pass.

    We stopped in Pola de Somiedo for a walk through the village and to refill our bottles, then continued through the river valley to Belmonte de Miranda, where we had coffee and chatted with a couple of bicycle tourists from England.

    Along the way, we saw countless hórreos and paneras, traditional Asturian granaries raised on stone supports to protect food from moisture and rodents. The larger paneras have six or more supports. Their wooden construction and overhanging roofs reminded us a little of Bavaria and Switzerland.

    Then came the “until it wasn’t” part. To avoid a road tunnel, we followed a section of the Camino Primitivo, the oldest Camino route, in reverse. The gravel climb reached 18% and became completely unrideable for a while. Near the top, we finally managed to pedal again, only to find the road nearly blocked by vehicles and men carrying guns. It appeared to be an organized hunt, most likely for wild boar.

    After passing a few Camino walkers coming toward us, we enjoyed another beautiful descent. With so much downhill, we finished with our highest average speed of the trip at 14.2 mph.

    In Grado, we split a snack at a kebab shop, picked up supplies at Lidl, and tackled one final short but steep climb to our hostel in Sestiello, a tiny village overlooking the city. The beautifully remodeled building was once the owner’s family farmhouse. He showed us where his grandparents had lived and where the cows had once been kept.

    We decided to support his business by eating dinner there and were rewarded with a beautiful salad and chicken stuffed with ham and cheese. Later, while walking through the village and listening to the cows moo, we met an older gentleman who had served in the Guardia Civil. We talked for about ten minutes and probably understood three to five percent of each other. Somehow, he convinced us to pick and taste some of his grapes.

    When we finally left, he gave me a hearty handshake and blew Lisa a kiss from his hand. A neighbor walking down the hill saw the whole exchange and smiled. These encounters can begin a little awkwardly, but they often become some of our favorite cultural exchanges and best memories from the road.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    11

    Austuria and No Chicken for You!

    18 septembre, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Coal Country to the Clouds

    Day 18: Ponferrada to El Puerto (55 miles / 5240 ft.)

    We got up around 7:00 and opted out of the hostel’s €7.50 breakfast, making our own instead. In hindsight, ours was probably better anyway. We ate in the common area with several Camino hikers, although they were packed and gone long before us.

    With the temperature around 49°F, we returned to our room, packed the bikes and added some warmer clothing. Another morning, another climb, but soon we were rewarded with beautiful riding alongside the Bárcena Reservoir.

    From there, we followed the Sil River upstream through Toreno, Páramo del Sil and Villablino. The road, river and old railway were squeezed together between steep, forested slopes, and the scenery seemed to improve around every corner. This was once major coal country, and the old Ponfeblino railway carried coal from the mines around Villablino down the valley to Ponferrada. The mining has mostly disappeared, but its history remains visible in the towns and along the hillsides.

    We knew the day would involve plenty of steady climbing, but riding through the tight curves of the river valley was breathtaking. After Villablino, we left the Sil and began our final climb into the jagged peaks of the Cantabrian Mountains. We crossed from Castilla y León into Asturias at Puerto de Somiedo before reaching El Puerto, a tiny livestock village sitting nearly 5,000 feet above sea level.

    Lisa and I had spent much of the day dreaming about our promised chicken dinner. We had confirmed that the restaurant would be serving, so we carried very little food. Unfortunately, shortly after arriving, we learned that dinner had been canceled. Check-in felt a little tense until I used ChatGPT to translate a message explaining that we were sorry if we had gotten off on the wrong foot, but we had been counting on dinner and had no other food.

    The woman helping us seemed upset with the owner on our behalf. After serving us a couple of cold drinks, she quietly disappeared into the kitchen and returned with two ham-and-cheese sandwiches and two apples. We both nearly teared up at her kindness. Then she came back again with two small cinnamon rolls for dessert.

    Our spirits lifted, we walked through the tiny village listening to the cows mooing and admiring the brilliant blue sky, streaked with clouds and jet trails. Later, while sitting on the terrace, clouds rolled over the mountains, swallowed the sunset and slowly enclosed the entire village. It was an incredible feeling to be sitting inside the clouds.

    Exhausted from both the climbing and the visual overload, we retired to our room with yet another magnificent mountain view. In the middle of the night, I woke and looked outside. The clouds had completely disappeared, leaving a dark sky filled with thousands, maybe millions, of stars. I stood quietly at the window for a while, simply absorbing the beauty.

    Another wonderful day.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    11

    The Cult (band), the Camino, and a Perfect Day.

    17 septembre, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Viana do Bolo to Ponferrada (60 miles / 5100 ft.)

    Some days are about exploring, and others are simply business on the bike. Yesterday we put our heads down and rode, but in between all that riding was honestly one of the most beautiful days we have ever had on bicycles.

    Román had already left for work, but Noelia prepared an awesome breakfast and visited with us before we departed. As usual, the day began with a three-mile climb, but this time we were rewarded with nearly 15 miles of descending, sometimes approaching 45 mph. The temperature was perfect, the sky was clear and everything just seemed to click.

    We left the mountains of Galicia’s Ourense province, descended through the Bibei valley and followed the Sil River through Valdeorras. Eventually we crossed into León province and the region of El Bierzo, part of Castilla y León. The mountains slowly opened into a greener and wider river valley as we approached Ponferrada.

    We also found ourselves traveling backward along the Camino de Invierno, one of the Camino de Santiago routes. We crossed paths with walkers, followed the familiar shell symbols and passed the beautiful Ponte de Éntoma, an old single-arch slate bridge traditionally linked to Roman times. Lisa and I continued our running joke: “We must be on the Camino de Santiago!” We have been saying it since Lisbon and will probably continue saying it anytime we see a hiker.

    Ponferrada felt like a town designed for fans of the rock band, The Cult. Red Templar crosses appeared on businesses and historic buildings throughout the city, while the massive Templar castle dominated the old town. The Knights Templar arrived here in the early 12th century to help protect pilgrims, and even the city’s name comes from an iron-reinforced bridge built across the Sil River for travelers.

    Near the castle, we found a place for a cold drink and a snack before checking into our hostel. We felt slightly out of place among the Camino walkers, but everyone was welcoming, and the hostel had secure bicycle parking, a repair area and even a bike wash. That is always a huge relief at the end of a long day.

    After showers and laundry, who could resist searching for a kebab? Lisa and I always say you cannot go wrong with pizza, a kebab or Indian food. We both had döner kebabs and french fries, then wandered around town until sunset.

    We also came across a rather creepy black-robed statue that looked unsettlingly familiar to American eyes. It represents the Lambrión Chupacandiles, a traditional Nazareno who walks through Ponferrada ringing a bell to announce the coming of Holy Week. The pointed hood is part of a Spanish religious tradition that is centuries older than anything it unfortunately resembles back home.

    Around 7:00 p.m., the city suddenly came alive. It was as if someone gave everyone an electric shock and said, “Get out of the house, walk around and have a cigarette!” We joined the evening crowd for a while before returning to the hostel and wrapping up another nearly perfect day.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1

    Portugal Behind Us, Galicia Ahead🇵🇹

    16 septembre, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Day 16: Bragança, Portugal to Viana do Bolo, Spain (52 miles / 7,000 ft.)

    The day began with another traffic jam of sheep. A farmer and his dogs led a large flock down the road, while a few more dogs followed behind keeping everyone in line. It was the beginning of one of our most picturesque days of the trip.

    Then came the climbing. Unlike Iowa, there was no “getting a run at it.” We simply settled in, pedaling steadily at 4 to 6 mph as the road carried us higher into the mountains, sometimes approaching a 20% grade. Cooler weather helped, and the views were magnificent.

    Naturally, one of my traditional “I think this is a shortcut” decisions led us down a crazy gravel descent followed by an even crazier gravel climb. We also rode through thousands of chestnut trees, from newly planted groves to enormous old trees that looked hundreds of years old. We wondered what anyone could possibly do with that many chestnuts. For centuries they were a staple food here, especially before potatoes arrived. Today they are roasted, dried, ground into flour, made into creams and desserts, or sold candied. Even so, it looked like there were far more than anyone could ever harvest.

    Somewhere along the way, we crossed into Spain. There was no welcome sign or border crossing, but when we looked behind us, there was the Portugal sign. Just like that, our Portugal chapter was complete, with Lisa and me both a little sad to see it end so quickly.

    Portugal by the numbers:
    594 miles, 13 riding days, 1 rest day and 10.81 vertical miles. Approximately 6,732 barking dogs, four dog chases, three sheep roadblocks, two rats, one deer, two flat tires, both Jim’s, no clouds, no rain and only a couple of bad decisions!

    Viana do Bolo was a hidden little gem tucked into the mountain valleys of Galicia. Our first Spanish meal was patatas bravas, crispy potatoes with paprika sauce and mayonnaise, and a nice change from our steady diet of batatas fritas.

    The best part of the day was our Warmshowers hosts, Román and Noelia. They welcomed us even while juggling work, children returning to school, and remodeling their home. Over dinner, we learned about Galicia’s close historical and linguistic relationship with Portugal, along with Viana do Bolo’s winter Entrudio festival. During the celebration, boteiros wearing towering, colorful masks dance and leap through the streets while groups called fulións create a thunderous rhythm using drums and even old farm tools.

    We also shared a Galician favorite, roasted pementos de Padrón with bread. As the traditional saying goes, “Os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non” (“Padrón peppers, some are hot and some are not”). Eating them becomes a game. We would each bite into one and then watch everyone’s face, waiting to see who got the hot pepper. If someone suddenly started stuffing bread into their mouth, we had our answer!

    Román also educated us on Portugal’s maritime reach into Africa and Asia, including the arrival of Portuguese traders in Japan in 1543. He mentioned the often-repeated connection between Portuguese obrigado and Japanese arigatō.

    We could have talked much later, but our legs were finished, Román had a 5:30 a.m. alarm and a two-and-a-half-hour drive for work, and Noelia had school in the morning. Another fabulous Warmshowers experience, and one of our favorite areas of the journey so far.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1
    111

    A Small Village to a University City

    15 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Day 15: Vila de Ala to Bragança (60 Miles / 4,390 ft.)

    Our final day in Portugal began with a full-service breakfast from Álvaro, Odette, and Mário at Casa de l’ Eigreija. After all their help, cold drinks, conversation, and hospitality, they deserve a big shout-out.

    We left a tiny village where sheep wandered through the streets and tractors outnumbered cars. The route carried us across the high plateaus of Trás-os-Montes, repeatedly dropping into deep river valleys before sending us up long, winding climbs, some more than four miles. The roads were quiet, scenic, and really fun to ride.

    In Vimioso, we stopped for a Coke, coffee, and a coconut-dusted pastry. Farther down the road, a small café appeared at exactly the right time. My Radler was so cold and refreshing that I immediately ordered another, while Lisa had juice and water.

    By afternoon, the landscape began shifting from scattered farms and nearly empty villages toward Bragança, a city being rejuvenated by the Instituto Politécnico de Bragança. Its School of Agriculture fits naturally into this deeply rural region, while international students bring younger energy to the city. Many come from Portuguese-speaking countries, including Cape Verde, which was connected to Portugal until gaining independence through peaceful negotiations in 1975. That shared language and educational connection remains visible here today.

    Our hostel is an older residence that Paulo remodeled during COVID. He was clearly proud of what he created, and he should be. It is a wonderful space overlooking Bragança’s medieval citadel. After pizza, groceries, and laundry, we walked up to the castle to watch the sunset.

    It feels strange and a little sad knowing this is our final night in Portugal. Tomorrow we cross into Spain, where another Warmshowers host and the next part of the adventure await us. Portugal gave us one final gift: a glowing castle outside our bedroom window.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel

    Scrambled Eggs, Big Hills and Little Things

    14 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Day 14: Vila Nova de Foz Côa to Vila de Ala (54 Miles / 5,300 ft.)

    On our fifth big bicycle tour, we finally reached an important milestone: we made scrambled eggs for breakfast.

    We rolled out around 8:30 into a sunny 58-degree morning. For once, the day began with a screaming two-mile descent, the cold air rushing over us. Of course, Portugal soon presented the bill and sent us climbing again.

    Part of our route followed the Ecopista do Sabor, built on the old narrow-gauge railway that once connected Pocinho with northeastern Portugal before closing in 1988. The smooth grade gave us enormous views over the Douro and toward the Sabor Valley. Vineyards and thousands of olive trees covered hillsides that looked too dry and rocky to support anything. The fractured schist actually allows roots to reach moisture deep below the surface, helping grapes and olives survive in one of Portugal’s hottest and driest regions.

    Just after joining the trail, we encountered a large group of goats and sheep blocking our path. A local farmer was tending them with the help of four dogs. It is always fun to stumble across something like that, although there is also that slightly nervous moment when you wonder how the dogs will react to two strange cyclists passing through.

    Most of the day was simply riding through massive, nearly empty hills. A gas station appeared at just the right time, providing cold Cokes, an apple turnover, and a ham-and-cheese pastry.

    In Mogadouro, we split a dürüm kebab, the kind wrapped in thin flatbread, along with fries and more cold drinks. The owner’s daughter came over from a nearby house to help translate. Her father’s pride as she confidently used her English required no translation.

    We finished in Vila de Ala, a village so quiet that we had not seen another person by evening. Álvaro, a young lawyer from Spain and friend of the owner, helped us through the check-in process. The owner, Odette, is a retired geography teacher who could not have been nicer and had cold drinks waiting for us. Our accommodations and swimming pool were completely ours. The church next door rings every 15 minutes, which for now we are calling charming.

    The landscapes were huge today, but the little things stayed with us: a friendly toot of a horn, a wave between bicycle travelers, a gas-station worker joking that “they” are usually wrong about the internet weather forecast, a cashier checking our eggs for cracks, and a grandmother making silly noises for her tiny granddaughter.

    Cultures can appear completely different, but these small moments feel familiar everywhere. Kindness rarely needs much translation.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel

    Goats, Granite, and Castle Glass

    13 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Day 13: Celorico da Beira to Vila Nova de Foz Côa (43 Miles / 4,050 ft.)

    Breakfast began with bread, yogurt, juice, ham, cheese, marmalade, and a cheerful conversation conducted through Portuguese, a little English, homemade sign language, and plenty of smiles.

    Less than a mile into the ride, we encountered one trail runner, then another, followed by a steady stream of them. It turned out to be the Trail do Cerco, with several races winding through the hills around Celorico da Beira. We repeatedly crossed their route, sometimes on another brutally bumpy old stone road, and received plenty of “bom dias” and smiles as we cheered them along.

    Eventually, the runners disappeared and we climbed into the quiet mountains on a narrow road we named Goat Road. The name was not very creative. We simply followed a small herd of goats for a while. Around us were enormous granite boulders, ripening red and yellow apples, and thousands of olive trees. High above the crumbling slate farm buildings, modern wind turbines turned along the rocky ridges. It was a striking mix of old and new.

    We explored the castle at Trancoso before continuing to Moreira de Rei, where we found an amazing wine press carved directly into a granite outcrop. Grapes were crushed in the upper basin, and the juice flowed through channels into a lower collection area. Rock presses like this preserve the region’s long winemaking history. Grapes are now processed in modern wineries, but vineyards, olives, and the autumn harvest still shape life here much as they have for centuries.

    At Marialva, we climbed through the castle ruins to the Torre do Relógio and started a new tradition by collecting a small piece of “castle glass.” At a nearby café, we cooled off with Cokes and a sonho de abóbora, a pumpkin fritter traditionally made around Christmas.

    After some fast descents approaching 40 mph, we skipped the final castle and continued toward Vila Nova de Foz Côa. A stop at Intermarché supplied everything needed for another famous pasta dinner.

    It was a wonderfully quiet Sunday of goats, runners, castles, giant rocks, and roads nearly empty of cars. Exactly the kind of day that keeps bicycle travel interesting.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    11

    The Romans Didn’t Have Bicycles

    12 septembre, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Day 12: Seia to Celorico da Beira (41 Miles / 5,900 ft.)

    On a long bicycle tour, the days can start to blend together: eat, ride, climb, sweat, repeat. But then you find yourself trying to push a loaded bicycle up an ancient Roman road and the day becomes memorable.

    Our morning with Adriana and Bernardo included fruit, toast, yogurt with grains and fruit, and possibly the best coffee of the trip. Conversation continued until nearly 9:30, when they needed to begin their bicycle-camping trip and we needed to face the mountains.

    Straight out the door came a seven-mile climb gaining more than 2,000 feet. We climbed into the dry, mostly treeless landscape of the Serra da Estrela, mainland Portugal’s highest mountain range. The scenery had changed dramatically, with huge granite slabs and rounded boulders shaped by millions of years of weathering and ancient ice.

    We unexpectedly found ourselves sharing the mountain road with competitors in the Estrela Xtreme Triathlon. We cheered as they passed, and they seemed surprised to hear encouragement coming from two loaded bicycle tourists in the middle of nowhere.

    In Gouveia, we found shade, ham-and-cheese toast, and a Coke while watching more racers pass. After another difficult climb, we reached Folgosinho. Its small pale-quartz castle, reconstructed on a much older defensive site, overlooks the village and the upper Mondego Valley. We spent half an hour enjoying the view before making our next questionable decision.

    The ancient Roman road looked interesting on the map. In reality, its giant stones, grades above 20 percent, and our loaded bikes made even walking difficult.

    “I guess the Romans didn’t have bicycles,” became the joke as we wrestled our bikes upward. The road was part of an ancient route across the mountains, built for feet, hooves, and carts, apparently without much consideration for future cyclist.

    Celorico da Beira was bustling with its market and evening festivities. We sampled cherry liqueur (Ginja), a shrimp pastry, and white wine while admiring displays of local produce. We hoped for pizza, but the shop had closed, so cheeseburgers and french fries won instead.

    The music was scheduled for 10:00 p.m. and the DJ for 2:00 a.m. The Romans may not have had bicycles, but apparently the Portuguese do not need sleep.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel

    Tiny Coffees, Mini Beers and New Friends

    11 septembre, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Day 11: Bordeiro to Seia (44 Miles / 4,730 ft.)

    It was a beautiful, cool morning in our little apartment. After our normal quiet breakfast together, we put on our jackets and headed straight back into the climbing. The mornings have been cool, but the bright sunshine and perfectly blue skies warm things up quickly.

    In Côja, workers were busy transforming the main square for the weekend’s medieval festival. We wandered through the streets looking for postcards, then joined everyone else with a baked treat and one of Portugal’s amazingly tiny coffees. The sugar packet was nearly as big as my espresso, and the whole thing was gone in about one sip.

    The landscape is becoming hotter, drier, and more rugged as we approach the Serra da Estrela, the highest mountain range in mainland Portugal. With temperatures heading into the mid-90s, we took our time because our Warmshowers hosts, Adrianna and Bernardo, suggested arriving around 5:30.

    In Lourosa, we visited the Church of São Pedro, a rare pre-Romanesque church dating to 912, along with ancient tombs carved into the surrounding stones. Later, we stopped in the shade among the Roman ruins of Bobadela for a snack, surrounded by the old forum, stone pillars, and monumental arch. Before leaving, we took a quick look at its Roman amphitheater.

    Oliveira do Hospital may have a hospital, but that is not where its name comes from. The town was once controlled by the Knights Hospitaller, a medieval religious and military order. We were not especially hungry, but we still could not pass up the local kebab shop. The friendly owner walked outside with us and said that if we ever needed help anywhere in Portugal, he would send one of his employees. That kindness seems to follow us everywhere here.

    In Seia, Adriana greeted us warmly with a table full of snacks and cold drinks. When Bernardo returned from his psychiatry practice, we shared soup, baked eggplant, fried eggs, and alheira, a poultry-and-bread sausage traditionally linked to Portuguese Jews who concealed their avoidance of pork during the Inquisition. We also enjoyed grapes, figs, passionfruit, and homemade marmalades from Adriana’s family.

    Before we knew it, it was after 11:00. Adriana teaches theater and Bernardo teaches psychology, and they were preparing for one final bicycle-camping trip before returning to teaching Monday.

    The craziest connection came late in the evening. Remember the gift we delivered from Al Hood to Professor Joaquim in Coimbra? Bernardo believes Joaquim sat on his dissertation committee and gave the final approval for his degree. Portugal suddenly felt like a very small place.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel

    Schist, Castles, and Sore Forearms

    10 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day 10: Coimbra to Bordeiro (54 Miles / 5,750 ft.)

    We woke up early, a little nervous about the predicted 7,000 feet of climbing. We left Coimbra at 7:30, rode through campus and down to the Mondego River, then fought our way through the morning traffic. The farther we got from the city, the quieter it became and the climbing began.

    Near Lousã, we made a short detour to Castelo da Lousã and spent nearly an hour exploring the castle and nearby chapels. The castle dates back to the 11th century and once helped guard the southern approaches to Coimbra.

    Next came the long climb to Candal, one of Portugal’s Aldeias do Xisto, old mountain villages built largely from the region’s dark schist stone. From there we continued high into the Serra da Lousã, riding along fire-scarred ridges with giant wind turbines humming beside us.

    Next was a five-mile descent over loose rocks and gravel. By the bottom, our forearms were aching from squeezing the brakes. Somewhere along the way, we also spotted a huge deer with antlers nearly three feet long.

    We gathered supplies in Góis for a Jim and Lisa specialty pasta dinner with mushrooms, arugula, green olives, and local cheese melted into the sauce. As the evening cooled, we sat outside near Bordeiro looking back at the television towers high on the mountains we had crossed earlier. Chocolate pudding cups finished off another great day on the road.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    22

    Chains, Coffee, and a Big Band

    9 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Day 9: Coimbra (Rest Day)

    Our rest day began with the rare luxury of sleeping late. I cleaned the bikes and waxed the chains while Lisa organized our things, made coffee, caught up with people at home, and did a little work.

    Once ready, we wandered through the university campus and down to the botanical gardens, finding a couple of small souvenirs along the way. We noticed preparations for an outdoor music festival and learned there would be a concert that evening.

    Lunch was at a kebab shop, followed by groceries for tomorrow’s breakfast and a little relaxation at the apartment. Later, we slowly wandered through the campus again, stopping for street music and people-watching before finding a Brazilian pizza place for dinner.

    We climbed back toward campus for the concert, which opened with the university’s big band. The students and faculty performed lively modern music, and it was plenty of entertainment us. The main event would have to continue without us!

    We were back in bed around 10:00, grateful for another beautiful-weather day and excited to return to the bikes tomorrow for a big ride into the mountains.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    112

    Capes, Cobblestones, and Chanfana

    8 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Day 8: Casconha to Coimbra (29 Miles / 2,700 ft.)

    After a casual morning at Amazônia, we hit the road for a short but still hilly ride. We climbed over the high hills approaching Coimbra, enjoyed an incredible view from above, and then descended toward the Mondego River running through the city.

    We arrived hours before check-in, so we did much of tomorrow’s planned sightseeing. Coimbra has about 140,000 residents, but its university has more than 31,000 students, giving the city a wonderfully young energy. Founded in 1290, the university is known for its black academic clothing, faculty colors, and historic student houses called repúblicas.

    Freshman orientation was underway, with chanting and groups marching through the streets. What we saw felt more like camaraderie-building than hazing. We accidentally filmed one group containing minors and were firmly instructed to delete the video. Our first lesson at one of Europe’s oldest universities was apparently privacy!

    We ate bifanas at a local sandwich shop, explored the botanical gardens, and delivered a gift to one of Al Hood’s former students at the psychology department. The steep cobbled streets often forced us to push our bikes, although riding along the river was wonderfully flat. Coimbra is definitely not a bicycling city.

    After settling into our cozy hotel, we walked out for chanfana, the regional dish of goat slowly cooked in red wine. A light sprinkle began, so the wonderfully attentive staff prepared a table beneath the awning for us. A sweet ending to our first day in Coimbra.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1

    Rocks, Castles, and Batatas Fritas

    7 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Day 7: Leiria to Casconha (61 Miles / 5,900 ft.)

    After a good night’s sleep, we woke early, ate breakfast, and hit the road. The countryside became rockier around Rabaçal and Penela, with limestone hills, stone walls, and olive trees. Some sections had such large, rough stones that we had to walk our bikes to avoid wrecking our wheels.

    We stopped at an old windmill and ate bread, potato chips, and a few other snacks from our panniers.

    Later, at Penela Castle, we enjoyed cold Cokes and french fries while talking with a friendly woman who told us about living in Amsterdam and her upcoming move to Angola. She had the same easy friendliness we have found in so many Portuguese people. The 11th-century castle once stood near the frontier between Christian and Muslim territory, helping defend Coimbra during the Reconquista.

    With 61 miles and 5,900 feet of climbing, it was another difficult day. We were thankful for the nice weather because rain or strong wind might have made parts of it nearly impossible.

    We arrived around 5:00 at Amazônia, a unique place created by a Brazilian family along a Camino de Santiago route. A creek flows beneath the building, visible through glass floors in our room and on the balconies. We cooked dinner in the outdoor kitchen and settled in beside the running water.

    A short day planned for tomorrow, but those often catch you off guard!    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    12

    Sand, A Steep Hill, and a Dog

    6 septembre, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Day 6: Alcobaça to Leiria (49 Miles / 3,320 ft.)

    We moved quickly toward Nazaré, but arrived a little early for the festival and found plenty of crowds anyway. We continued to the viewpoint above Praia do Norte, famous for some of the world’s largest waves. The official Guinness record is an incredible 86 feet! Giant-wave season is generally from October through March, but even today we could feel the ocean’s power during our short hike down to the beach.

    Then came the sand. And more sand. Our route followed dune-buggy trails where we pushed our loaded bikes for over a mile, filling our shoes and wondering whether any bicycle tourists had ever made this particular mistake before.

    We kept postponing lunch until reaching Porto de Mós, where we found shade near the castle and ate bread, hummus, and electrolyte drinks. The final 18 miles included possibly the steepest hill we have ever ridden. Just as it eased slightly, a large dog aggressively chased Lisa. Perhaps the extra adrenaline helped!

    After one final punch-in-the-face climb, we found a café and cold drinks. In Leiria, we changed rooms because of a broken bed, hung our laundry everywhere, and found Hawaiian pizza topped with Gorgonzola. A cool, quiet walk home beneath the castle glowing red above the city ended quite an adventurous day.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1

    Alcobaça, Portugal

    5 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Day 5: Caldas da Rainha to Alcobaça (36 Miles / 2,700 ft.)

    After yesterday’s 71-miles, today’s 36 miles sounded relaxing. It wasn’t exactly a rest day, though, as another 2,700 feet of climbing kept our legs awake. The route brought us past beautiful beaches tucked below steep coastal cliffs, with paragliders floating overhead, before we continued through Portugal’s rolling countryside.

    Arriving in Alcobaça, it was impossible to miss the enormous monastery dominating the center of town. The nearly 900-year-old monastery is one of Portugal’s great Gothic treasures. Inside are the beautifully carved tombs of King Pedro I and Inês de Castro, whose tragic love story has become a Portuguese legend.

    Having a shorter day gave us time to slow down, explore, and enjoy an actual local meal. Dinner was Portuguese chicken cooked in a clay pot (Frango na Púcara), rich, comforting, and exactly what two hungry cyclists needed.

    Still a solid day on the bikes, but enough energy left for some history, culture, and good food.    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    212

    A Long Day on the Bike

    4 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 4: Lisbon to Caldas da Rainha (71 Miles / 6,800 ft.)

    Our first full day on the road began by navigating Lisbon toward the coast. When we asked a man to photograph us, he carefully framed the shot. Then a woman walking to work jumped in front of us, struck a pose, and laughed. A perfect start!

    The coast led to mountain-bike trails, followed by hours of difficult climbing in the heat. Lunch was grocery-store sandwiches and chips. In one village, Lisa waved to a lively group of women, and one enthusiastically waved back. Their energy gave us a lift.

    The quiet countryside, changing scenery, and mysterious smells sometimes reminded us of Japan, Tanzania, or Italy. Farmers were busy harvesting grapes, apples, and pears, creating a familiar Iowa-like feeling of harvest season and the first slight buzz of autumn. We kept laughing and telling each other to “get a run at it” before hills where no run could possibly help.

    After 71 miles and 6,800 feet of climbing, we reached our Warmshowers hosts, Eric and Amaya. They welcomed us with Thai curry, fresh salad, baked cheese pastries, and salted-caramel ice cream.

    A very hard ride, but an exciting first day heading north!    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel

    Made it to Lisbon!

    2 septembre, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Day 2: The whole day is a bit of a blur. Four hours wandering Copenhagen’s airport after being bumped to a later Lisbon flight. SAS gave us food vouchers, so we found a kebab shop for chicken and french fries.

    Finally landed in Lisbon around 11:30 p.m., put the bikes together, and rolled out around 1 a.m. Our ride to the apartment was peaceful, with just a few people walking around. Much easier to navigate than a crowded city, though we still would’ve preferred arriving on time!

    No dinner or drinks, but we have water and Lisa’s snacks. And I mean A LOT of snacks. ❤️

    Tomorrow: fine-tune the bikes and hopefully explore Lisbon! 100° forecasted! 🥵    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1
    11

    O’Hare!

    1 septembre, États Unis ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Our adventure has begun… with an extended tour of O’Hare!

    Thanks to Doug for the airport ride, Randy and Sally for the wonderful good-luck sign, and everyone who helped us get ready. ❤️

    Our airplane took an unscheduled Wisconsin vacation, so our carefully planned timeline is now a rough suggestion. Hoping to reach our Lisbon hotel by 2 a.m. September 3.

    We’ve got each other and two months of adventure ahead. Portugal, we’re coming… eventually! 🚲🇵🇹    En savoir plus

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  • Lisbon to Brussel
    1
    11

    48 Hours until Departure !

    30 août, États Unis ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We’re planning to leave Iowa City at 10:30 AM on September 1. We fly from Chicago-Copenhagen-Lisbon. Our plan first day of riding is Friday, September 4.

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  • Début du voyage
    1 septembre 2026