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Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Comfy in a short-sleeved t-shirt in the morning ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.
    Comfy in a short-sleeved t-shirt in the morning ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.With the wind picking up as a rain storm moves in, need a fleece blanket to stay warm.That's it as far as a rainbow ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.The rain starts to lift and the mountains begin to reappear ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.1As night falls, this is all the color we get ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: All’s Quiet on the Central Front

    11 juli, Italië

    After yesterday’s twisty-turny drive through the mountains, we were both happy to have a quiet day at the chalet.

    The apartment gets the sun in the morning, so I sat out for just a short time before it felt downright hot … despite the light, cool breeze. No A/C here, so we pulled some of the drapes closed and kept the balcony doors open. Kept us comfy for the rest of the morning.

    Once the sun moved off the balcony, I split my time between photo processing indoors and reading outside. Although we are quite close to two fairly large towns, it’s beautifully quiet up here on the outskirts.

    A light snack for dinner on the balcony tonight. And then I wrapped myself up in a fleece blanket to continue sitting out … watching the daylight dim as it began thundering in the distance. Rain began to fall around 9:00p … right on schedule. The twinkling lights of the houses in the mountain valley below us are now veiled by the steady rain. The eaves afford enough protection to continue sitting outside … which I will do until the evening chill drives me inside.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to Colfosco in the central Dolomiti region.
    On our way to Colfosco in the central Dolomiti region.The one stop we made was at the ubiquitous big letters — Dolomiti, Italy.Photo point on Passo Campolongo; the Sassongher massif (R) and the Puez Group (L) looms behind.Mui's entrecôte with gravy; crispy onions, and roasted potatoes — Hotel Jägerhof, Colfosco.Welcome to Chalet Cogolara ... we're on the top floor in the building on the right — Colfosco, ItalyTofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Second bedroom ... perfect for Mui's daytime naps ... Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco.Balcony ... looking south (L) and north; Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.View down to Colfosco and the ski runs and mountains in the distance — Tofano Apartment.View from the balcony down to Colfosco and the mountains — Tofano apartment @ the chalet.Glimpse of Sassongher (L) looking north from the balcony — Tofano apartment @ the chalet.

    Colfosco: Our New Digs @ Chalet Cogolara

    10 juli, Italië

    The route we followed from Pieve to our new digs was all new.

    Having decided to see if we could check-in early, we didn’t dally along the way … we knew we’d be driving along the same twisty-turny, two-way mountain roads again. One photo stop at the ubiquitous big letters for Corvara was it.

    As we were driving through Corvara and Colfosco we began wondering if we had made a mistake with this booking. Both towns were very crowded; the streets a hub-bub of activity. Of course, as late as we were to planning our Dolomiti ‘escape the heat’ trip, choices for accommodations that fit our budget were limited, so nothing to do but grin and bear it.

    Turns out that Chalet Cogolara, an apart-hotel, is on the outskirts of Colfosco, far from the madding crowd … but still convenient to grocery shopping, several trails, and such. Built in 1970, the property was renovated into apartments around 2018-2019. It is operated alongside Lüch da Rönn, a historic farmstead. The first mention of the high-elevation farm dates back to 1273. Today, the farm is dedicated to breeding sheep.

    We were greeted by Manuela, who apologized that our apartment wasn’t ready. No apology necessary … we were three hours ahead of schedule. She suggested we have lunch and return around 2:00p … and made a couple of recommendations for our meal. We settled on the restaurant at Hotel Jägerhof down the road a bit and enjoyed a nice lunch on the terrace where an umbrella provided plenty of shade from the bright, hot sun.

    Our apartment was ready when we returned around 2:00p. Before taking us up to our top floor apartment for the next 7 nights, Manuela gave us a tour of the facilities, including the garage, the ski/bike room where she pointed out a locker for our use, the laundry room, and more. Then up to our luxurious apartment … named Tofana for some of the peaks visible from the balcony.

    Once we got the lay of the land and unpacked, Mui drove back to Colfosco to supplement our groceries. I took advantage of the balcony — now in the shade — to read for a while. A delightful light meal — wine and snacks with a view down toward Colfosco and the mountains behind — wrapped up our moving day.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    An "it was great to get to know you" selfie w/Raffaella in the Villagrande town square.
    An "it was great to get to know you" selfie w/Raffaella in the Villagrande town square.Parking lot with a view — Pieve, Italy.Heading to the museum (only to find it closed) — Pieve, Italy.1Love all the colorful blooms in planters along roads and in the windows — Pieve, Italy.Colorful blooms and wood carvings — Pieve, ItalyPainted shutters — Pieve, Italy.Decorative trim around a window — Pieve, Italy.WWI & WWII Memorial outside the church — Pieve, Italy.Memorial to Katharine Lanz; a Tyrolean patriot; considered a sort of Joan of Arch of Tyrol — Pieve.The Church of San Giacomo — Pieve, Italy.The Church of San Giacomo — Pieve, Italy.In the town square — Pieve, Italy.Detail from the fountain in the town square — Pieve, Italy.1Collection of colorful blooms — Pieve, Italy.Ladin flag in Pieve, Italy.

    Moving Day … With A Detour to Pieve

    10 juli, Italië

    After a 10-night stay in Colle Santa Lucia (actually, in the hamlet of Villagrande), today was moving day for us. Raffaella, our host, came to see us off … asking if we could take a selfie together before we left. We were off around 10:00a … after bidding “a s’odëi” (= see you later … in Ladin).

    With check-in at our new place set for 3:00p, our plan was to take a roundabout route to Colfosco … in the central region of the Dolomiti. To that end, we decided to try going to one of the places we were hoping to visit yesterday … Plan A. Alas, that did not prove possible. Hope springs eternal, however, so we’ll try again if we can fit it in.

    Thus, we jiggled our plans, deciding to try an alternate route to another place we had hoped to visit yesterday … Plan B. No problem getting to Pieve, the main town in the commune of Livinallongo del Col di Lana. We even found parking … with a view no less. But the museum that we wanted to check out was not scheduled to open until 2:30p.

    We debated wandering around for a while to kill time, have lunch, and then go to the museum. It didn’t take long, however, to realize that there wasn’t enough to keep us occupied until 2:30p. Instead, we settled on just doing a wander around Pieve and then continued on to our new digs.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Mural at the entrance to the Paleontology exhibits — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.
    Mural at the entrance to the Paleontology exhibits — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Map of Val Fiorentina showing the important sites in the valley — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Schematic showing the geology of the Dolomites — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Mural at the entrance to the exhibits about Italy's first dinosaur tracks — Museo Vittorino CazzettaDiorama showing a dinosaur leaving tracks in the ground — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Photos and information about the dinosaur tracks of Monte Pelmetto — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Cast of the Monte Pelmetto dinosaur tracks; lower right of previous photo shows the cast being made.Diorama of two herbivores and one carnivore leaving tracks — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Fossils from the Dolomites — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural at the entrance to last hunter-gatherers of Europe exhibits — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Diorama of a shelter of Mesolithic hunter-gatherers — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Skeleton of the 8,000 year-old Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Information about the burial find of the Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural depicting the burial of the Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural depicting the Mandriz rock shelter — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.3D model of the Mandriz rock shelter built against an erratic boulder — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.3D elevation depiction of the Dolomiti — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Inscriptions of Monte Pore; stele with characters of the extinct Indo-European Venetic language.Inscriptions of Monte Civetta from the Roman Period — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Lion of St Mark ... on a marble border stone — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Carved and painted wooden box from 1576; used to store accounting entries.Book of statutes of the Brotherhood of Santa Maria dei Battuti of Selva and Pescul (16th century).Episode of the Martyrdom of San Lorenzo; 1490 ... from the Church of San Lorenzo in Selva di Cadore.Banner of the Comune of Selva di Cadore — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Could this be the precious Rajetta? The question remains unanswered.

    Selva di Cadore: Museo Vittorino Cazzetta

    9 juli, Italië

    The main activity of Plan C today was a visit to the Vittorino Cazzetta Museum.

    Founded in 1982 as the Val Fiorentina Civic Museum, it features exhibits on paleontology, archaeology, and history. In 1997, it was dedicated to Vittorino Cazzetta, described as “… a passionate, self-taught scholar and author of the area’s most significant scientific discoveries.” Cazzetta disappeared during a trip into his beloved mountains 30 years ago.

    We paid the 65+ admission — €7pp … with a discount part of the deal for another museum we hope to visit.

    The museum is not very big, but it has interesting, well-planned exhibits. Information panels are in Italian and English … though the labels for items in the display cases are in Italian only (thank goodness for translation apps).

    The focus of the museum is the history of the area … from the oldest geological periods to the Middle Ages. Two of the exhibits are of great importance to the region.

    One is the actual skeletal remains from the mesolithic burial find of “L’Uomo di Mondeval” … the 8,000 year old Mondeval Man. The other is a cast of the first traces of dinosaur footprints discovered in Italy … found on a boulder that fell from Mount Pelmetto (one of the mountains we can see from our apartment).

    We started out by watching a multimedia presentation explaining how the Dolomiti (aka the Pale Mountains) — which are inscribed on the UNESCO WHS list — were formed over 250 million years ago. Originating as vast coral reefs in a shallow tropical sea, tectonic collisions later pushed these ancient seafloor deposits thousands of feet up. The rock was then transformed by magnesium-rich waters and sculpted into jagged peaks by ice and erosion.

    (That’s the short story … for more detail, you can start with this link: https://www.dolomites.org/dolomites-history/.)

    We then wandered through the different sections of the museum, starting with the paleontology and geology exhibits where we saw a collection of fossils; the cast of the dinosaur tracks I mentioned earlier; displays and information about Mesolithic hunter-gatherers, including a diorama of a shelter; and of course the skeletal remains and artifacts from the Mondeval Man burial find.

    The second floor had more archaeological finds, including finds from the Mandriz Shelter and the Bronze Age Mondeval de Sora. It was interesting to see how people used huge erratic boulders as part of their rustic shelters.

    On this floor, we also found more ‘recent’ archaeological finds … time being relative and all that. Photo displays of the valley’s most significant historical and artistic sites — such as the ones that inspired us to visit Chiesa di Santa Fosca — rounded out our visit to the museum.

    Even though this museum was not on our radar, I’m glad we had a chance to visit it and learn a bit more about the Dolomiti and the Valley of Fiorentina.

    Tomorrow is moving day … we’ll be heading to the central part of the mountains.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to implement Plan A (and Plan B), we go through one of the tunnels of the Dolomiti.
    On our way to implement Plan A (and Plan B), we go through one of the tunnels of the Dolomiti.Plan A and Plan B both foiled by the road closure — Dolomiti, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.St Christopher with baby Jesus ... Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.1Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Monument honoring the 150th anniversary of mountaineering in memory of ancestors ... @ Santa Fosca.View from behind Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca from the path to the cemetery — Selva di Cadore, Italy.The cemetery is behind and separate from Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.

    Selva di Cadore: Today’s Plan C

    9 juli, Italië

    Plan A for today was a bust. So was Plan B.

    The reason? Construction work on the road we needed to drive to get to both places. Sure, the road would be open for two hours between noon and 2:00p … during siesta. But neither place we wanted to visit would be open during that time frame.

    We’re going to try dropping down to those places from the north later during this trip, so I’ll keep them a secret for now.

    Thus, we moved on to Plan C … which took us to a museum in Selva di Cadore, down the road a bit from Colle Santa Lucia. I’ll leave the museum to another footprint.

    After visiting the museum, inspired by a photo I saw at one of the exhibits, we programmed Chiesa di Santa Fosca into the GPS. Short drive up the road from the museum.

    The church, constructed in Alpine Gothic style, was founded in the 13th century; underwent rebuilding in the first quarter of the 15th century … a bell tower with a characteristic onion dome added in the mid-15th century. Sitting by itself on a small plateau, it is considered one of the iconic views of the Val Fiorentina (val = valley).

    What drew me to the church was a mural … pictured on the front façade in the photograph at the museum. The description indicated that the oversized fresco was painted in the 15th century and depicts Saint Christopher with baby Jesus sitting on his shoulder. Considering the considerably deteriorated condition of the mural of Saint Fosca (over the door), I’m thinking St Kit has been ‘touched up’ over the years.

    The door to the church was locked. But the info panel indicated it would be open between 4:30p-6:00p.

    So, under the guise of getting ourselves some gelato in Selva di Cadore, we later returned to take a peek inside the church. Still locked up tight.

    Oh well! At least we got to enjoy some good gelato.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Ra Gusela Pond Reflection ... hike #1 trail in the distance — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.
    2Ra Gusela Pond Reflection ... hike #1 trail in the distance — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Ra Gusela Pond Reflection ... the two peaks on the right are Tofana di Rozes & Tofana di Mezzo.Cows on the way back to the car — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View of Ra Gusela and many more mountains from the parking area — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View from the parking area for hike #2 — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Ra Gusela and the Tofanas ... on the wall behind our bed at Cesa dele Angele.

    Dolomiti: Giau Pass … Hike #2

    8 juli, Italië

    Our second hike of the afternoon was just a short ways down SP638. Technically, we could have left the car where it was and walked to the trailhead. But what goes down, must come back up. So, we decided to save our energy and drove to the small roadside parking area instead.

    The reason we wanted to do the hike was simple … it was marked on Google Maps as “Ra Gusela Pond Reflection.” Can you say double the pleasure?

    There was no real trail per se. We essentially looked ahead to where the grass seemed to have been trampled through an area where cows graze and followed it. Today our bovine friends were resting on the next hill over.

    When Google Maps said that we had arrived, we looked around for a body of water. What we found was more of a mud pit … with some water. A couple seated on a nearby rock confirmed that this was the spot. Hmmm!

    Disappointing? That was our first reaction. However, our initial grimace at what we found, quickly turned into wide smiles when we realized that we could still get a reflection of Ra Gusela. We just had to walk around to the other side of the mud pit. Even the clouds cooperated and the light brightened to match our grins. Best of all … the wind that came out of nowhere, waited to do so after we completed our photo ops.

    Here’s the funny thing about the Ra Gusela Pond Reflection. We didn’t know it at the time we decided to do the short hike, but what we’d be seeing was the same view that is on the wall behind our bed at Cesa dele Angele!    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    View from where we parked the car on the side of the road — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.
    View from where we parked the car on the side of the road — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Ra Gusela behind us ... from where we parked the car — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Panorama with Ra Gusela (R) and road down to Da Aurelio (L) — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo (L) and Monte Cristallo (R) — from the Giau Pass, Dolomiti.A closer look at Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo (10,322 feet/3,126m asl) — from Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Bladder Campion ... along the trail at Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View of the mountains from our turnaround point on the trail at Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Heading down ... (L to R) Torre Dusso, Cima Loschiesuoi, Monte Cernera — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Panorama from our turnaround point — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.1Interesting hanging sculpture at the Berghotel — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Chiesetta Alpina di Passo Giau is a cabin-like wooden chapel — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.

    Dolomiti: Giau Pass … Hike #1

    8 juli, Italië

    After lunch, we drove the short distance on SP638 — a regional road that is part of the Veneto Strade system — to the highest point of Passo di Giau (7,335 feet/2,236m asl).

    The plan was to hike the short trail that starts near Berghotel Passo Giau … in the direction of one of the famous peaks of the area … Ra Gusela. No real parking lots in the vicinity, so we did what all the other cars had done … when we found an open spot on the shoulder, Mui pulled off the road and maneuvered into it.

    The hike wasn’t difficult per se … wide steps pretty much all the way up to a radio link antenna at our turnaround point. Beyond that it was a rock scramble that continued deeper into the mountains and refuge huts. Not taking on that part of the trail.

    Spectacular scenery … despite the overhead clouds.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Ristorante da Aurelio ... we dined on the terrace on the left — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.
    Ristorante da Aurelio ... we dined on the terrace on the left — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.View at Da Aurelio ... the peak on the right is Ra Gusela (8,514 ft/2,595m) — Passo di Giau.View @ Ristorante da Aurelio ... Averau (R) is 8,688 feet/2,648m — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.View from our table ... Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.Piz Boé ... 10,341 feet/3,152m (center back) & Col di Lana (center front) ... from Da Aurelio.Delicious lunch @ Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.An espresso to wrap up lunch @ Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.1At Ristorante da Aurelio ... we dined on the terrace on the left — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.

    Dolomiti: Lunch at Da Aurelio

    8 juli, Italië

    When we first arrived in Colle Santa Lucia, Raffaella — our host at Cesa dele Angele — texted me recommendations … what to do, where to eat, etc. Amogst the suggestions was what she described as a ‘chic restaurant’ … Ristorante Da Aurelio overlooking the Giau Pass (7,335 feet/2,236m asl).

    We drove through the pass early on during our stay … it connects Colle Santa Lucia with Cortina d’Ampezzo. We passed the restaurant at the time, but other plans were calling us, so we postponed our lunch to another day. That day turned out to be today.

    The plan was to have lunch first, and then do two easy hikes in the immediate area. It all worked out beautifully — with the weather cooperating … comfy temps and sunshine … with ‘sun-ray-filter-clouds’ eventually giving way to puffy clouds as the afternoon progressed.

    The road to get to the pass is twisty-turny. Coming from Colle Santa Lucia, one has to drive through 3 tunnels … easy peasy; and tight, hairpin bends … 29 of them to be exact. No, I didn’t count them myself … each one was clearly numbered with a sign.

    Da Aurelio is at the rifugio by the same name … located at 7,135 feet/2,175m asl. We had no reservation for lunch. But that actually worked out in our favor as we were invited to dine at one of the tables on the deck instead of the dining room inside. Perfect. (Soon after we were seated, the remaining tables on the deck were filled by others who had not made reservations.)

    What can I say! It was a wonderful dining experience. Not surprising since the restaurant bills itself as “A gourmet’s paradise at 2,175 meters in the heart of the Dolomites.” The menu is inspired by nature and features traditional Alpine fare … with a twist — meaning that the chef adds his own interpretation to the recipes. Products are sourced locally and wild herbs and high-altitude edible Alpine flowers are used for flavor and color.

    A delightful meal. And now to hike-off some of the calories.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    A Ladin couple at the entrance to the Ladin Institute at Cesa de Jan — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.
    A Ladin couple at the entrance to the Ladin Institute at Cesa de Jan — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.A mural at the entrance to the Ladin Institute at Cesa de Jan — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.17th century map of the Tyrol by M. Burglechner; in the shape of the heraldic eagle of the county.Foyer of Cesa de Jan where the Ladin Institute is housed — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Upstairs bay window @ Cesa de Jan where the Ladin Institute is housed — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Cesa de Jan (1612) where the Ladin Institute is housed — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.At the start of the trail that turned into the Way of the Cross — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Looking back to the start of the trail that runs by where we are staying — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.The arrows point to our balconies at Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.View from the trail where is turned into the Way of the Cross — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.One of the stations on the Way of the Cross — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Chiesa di Colle Santa lucia from the Way of the Cross — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Selfie from the Way of the Cross (valley view behind us) — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Chiosco Bar da Silver — Pian-Fossal, Italy.Chiesa di San Lorenzo & Selva di Cadore ... the view that was hidden from us by the rain on 1 July.Mui got a macchiato; then jealous of my hot chocolate, he got one for himself (with panna [right]).Mural in the square with symbols of the village — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Weather vane at Casa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.

    Colle Santa Lucia: Plan B

    7 juli, Italië

    When we visited the tourist office a few days ago, the woman at the desk mentioned the Ladin Museum. That fit in with our desire for an easy day today.

    The Ladins are an ancient ethnolinguistic group that traces its roots back to 15 BCE when the Roman soldiers conquering the region integrated with the Rhaetian and Celtic Tribes. Today there are some 30,000 people who are of Ladin descent … they live in five valleys in the Dolomites. Their culture blends Latin and Alpine-Germanic traditions. Their language is not an Italian dialect. Rather, it is an independent and actively protected Rhaeto-Romance language.

    You might think that I learned all that when we went to Cesa de Jan — which dates back to 1612, and where we understood the museum to be located. Well, you would be wrong. The building is apparently just the headquarters (admin offices) of the Institut Cultural Ladin and the museum is in another town.

    The building was open; the offices locked up. There wasn’t anything to see really, so we were in and out in about five minutes.

    On to Plan B.

    We were curious about the trail/path we could see from our balcony at the apartment. Might as well check it out. Turns out the trail heads down at a steep angle and splits at a hairpin turn. We decided to go left … where the path continues up a steep, slightly-overgrown path that goes around to the other side of the church. At regular intervals there were what looked like votive shrines with numbers on them. That’s when we realized that the path was really a “Way of the Cross.” Good exercise; nice views.

    Once we got off the trail in the village, we decided to head down to the Chiosco Bar da Silver for hot beverages. When we had dinner there the day we arrived, it was raining so hard that we couldn’t see anything. Today, with the sun out, we were able to enjoy our beverages with a view of the towns and villages in the valley.

    Eventually returning to the apartment, we designated the rest of the day for R&R … lunch at home; afternoon tea and evening wine & snacks on the balcony.

    The weather looks like it is going to cooperate for another day, so we’re planning to head up to one of the passes tomorrow for a couple of short hikes. While we’re at it, we’ll check out a restaurant recommended by our host.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena — Rocca Piétore, Italy.
    Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena — Rocca Piétore, Italy.1Colorful flowers in Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Baptismal fount ... Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.1Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Tabernacle @ Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Chiesa di San Bartolomeo — Caprile, Italy.Sottoguda, Italy.

    On the Way Back

    6 juli, Italië

    On our way back from Alleghe to Colle Santa Lucia, we drove in and out of several small villages to see what we could see. Some were quiet; others were more popular and hopping … nowhere to park, however, so we quickly moved on.

    Where we spent the longest time was in the quiet commune of Rocca Piétore … so quiet, in fact, that we did not see another soul around. What drew us to drive across the bridge was a small church — Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena — that dates back to the 16th century. Turns out the door was locked. Instead, we went to the Marian Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie … where we enjoyed seeing the lovely stained glass windows.

    We were home by 5:00p … in time for wine and snacks on the balcony.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Greeted by a welcome mural at the start of the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.
    Greeted by a welcome mural at the start of the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.1Looking towards the Masaré end of Lago di Alleghe — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.Mural on the side of the Mountain & Cave Rescue Corps building — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade; Col di Lana in the center — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.1Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.View of Lago di Alleghe & Col di Lana from the terrace of the restaurant — Alleghe, Italy.Town view from our table at the restaurant — Alleghe, Italy.2A delicious lunch — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.Town view; the restaurant where we ate is at the Sporthotel Europa — Alleghe, Italy.Polenta is a specialty of the region ... it is cooked when it doesn't stick to the pan anymore.Mural in Alleghe, Italy.Looks like a re-purposed chicken coop — Alleghe, Italy.Mural in Alleghe, Italy.Chiesa di San Biagio — Alleghe, Italy.Chiesa di San Biagio — Alleghe, Italy.Chapel of the Black Madonna ... Chiesa di San Biagio — Alleghe, Italy.Mural in Alleghe, Italy.

    Dolomiti: A-Wander in Alleghe

    6 juli, Italië

    Once we got off the cableway, we made our way to the promenade that follows the shoreline of Lago di Alleghe … which was formed in 1771 when a landslide detached from Monte Piz and blocked the flow of the Cordevole River.

    The scenery was fantastic … all the more so because it was reflected on the lake. We even had sunshine again. A light breeze kept us comfortable.

    Although there were restaurants with better star ratings away from the lake, we opted for a table on the terrace at Lavoi Ristorante Sul Lago to enjoy a quiet meal with a delightful view. Arriving about 15 minutes before the kitchen closed, we had the terrace to ourselves.

    The service was not rushed. The food was excellent … pappardelle with deer ragù for me (a regional specialty); a pulled pork sandwich for Mui. We wrapped up with gelato made in-house … highly recommended by our server. He definitely did not steer us wrong.

    After lunch, we made our way to the upper neighborhood, stopping at Chiesa di San Biagio along the way. Dating back to the 12th century, it is believed that what is today the Chapel of the Black Madonna was the church back then. Our stroll continued via narrow streets to the stairs that took us down to the parking lot where we had left the car.

    A lovely town … much larger than Colle Santa Lucia. I imagine that there are times when the town is hopping. Today wasn’t one of those days … something for which we were grateful.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Pop of color on the way to the funivia station — Alleghe, Italy.
    2Pop of color on the way to the funivia station — Alleghe, Italy.The village from the funivia — Alleghe, Italy.The village and Lago di Alleghe — Alleghe, Italy.At the end of the first ride; the next cableway station is ahead of us — Civetta Ski Area.The family park is quiet today — Piani di Pezzè ... Civetta Ski Area.Gondolas heading up on the next part of the funivia — Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.Chiesetta Alpina — Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.Panorama from Chiesetta Alpina — Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.L to R: Piz Zorlet 2,379m; Sasso Bianca 2,407m; Marmolada-Punta Penia 3,343m from Piani di Pezzé.Cableway to Col dei Baldi from Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.2Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.Lago di Alleghe from Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.On our way up to Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.On our way up to Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.The chalet and Cima di Coldai and Monte Coldai (middle and right peak) — Col dei Baldi.Scenery at Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.L to R: Cime di Forca Rossa, Monte Pelmo & Monte Pelmetto ... which we see from the apartment, too.Scenery at Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.Delightful scenery at Col dei Baldi despite the clouds — Civetta Ski Area.Hot beverages @ Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.Enjoying a great cup of hot chocolate @ Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.Column decoration inside the chalet @ Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.Monte Civetta (center) from the cableway on the way down to Alleghe.The red arrows are the two funivia lines we rode today from Alleghe.

    Dolomiti: Alleghe Funivie

    6 juli, Italië

    When we asked the woman at the tourist information office to recommend a mountain village to visit nearby, she didn’t hesitate in suggesting Alleghe. Thus, that is where we headed today.

    Alleghe is settled on the shores of Lago di Alleghe … in the foothills of Monte Civetta, which rises to 10,565 feet (3,220m) above sea level. Many consider it the geographical heart of the Dolomites (which, if I haven’t mentioned it before, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site).

    When we left the apartment, the plan was to park the car, walk around Lago di Alleghe, and find a place for lunch with a view. We ended up skipping most of the middle part of that plan, replacing it with a funivia (cableway) ride up to the largest ski area in the Veneto Region.

    We had no expectation of snow at the top, but we did find the cooler temperatures that were missing in the valley. So much so that, when the wind picked up, we had to break out the jackets we had tucked into Mui’s backpack. That was the good news. The not so good? We lost the sun the further up we went. Oh well.

    The funivia consists of two separate lines. The first one goes up from Alleghe at 3,182 feet asl (970m) to Piani di Pezzè at 4,763 feet asl (1,452m). The second line goes up a further 1,542 feet (470m) to Col dei Baldi at 6,305 feet asl (1,922m). One can buy tickets for one line or both; one way or round trip. We opted for the latter in both cases.

    On a weekday, there were no lines at all. In fact, our entire time on the mountain was quiet with very few people around. Those we encountered were either heading off on a hike or returning from one of the trails.

    Within a minute or two of purchasing our tickets, we were on our way up. Getting off the first line, we walked in the direction of the station for the second line, dallying along the way to check out the views, and the Chiesetta Alpina, the tiny church near the chalet where Mui grabbed an espresso.

    Pressing onward with our second gondola ride, we spent more time at the top, enjoying the scenery despite the wind and the increasing cloud cover. At the chalet, we grabbed hot beverages — espresso for Mui, and a thick, gooey hot chocolate for me that left Mui salivating. We found seats on the terrace, out of the wind, and enjoyed our beverages with a view.

    We debated doing a hike. The one that went to Lago di Coldai promised a lake with reflections. But we had not come prepared for a three-hour, high-elevation hike. Instead, we decided to head back down to the village for lunch.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Maratona dles Dolomiti-Enel riders coming through Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.
    Maratona dles Dolomiti-Enel riders coming through Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Maratona dles Dolomiti-Enel riders coming through Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.

    Colle Santa Lucia: Bike Marathon

    5 juli, Italië

    Driving the twisty-turny two-way mountain roads require the driver’s full attention. Thus it can be quite draining … physically and mentally.

    So, after yesterday’s outing, today was planned as a ‘staycation day’ at the apartment. That worked out well as there was a bike race through the mountains today … which meant road closures.

    According to the information I found on the web, the race is the “Maratona dles Dolomiti-Enel,” a single-day granfondo that winds through seven major passes. One of the three routes covers 85+ miles (138 km) with an elevation gain of just under 14,000 feet (4,230m). The others are shorter with less gain. More power to those who participated.

    This year’s motto for the marathon was “Pax” (peace), with focus on “… a message of solidarity, mindful riding, and communal sustainability.”    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Challenge ... by Valentino Moro — Belvedere Overlook.
    Challenge ... by Valentino Moro — Belvedere Overlook.Scenery from the Belvedere Overlook."Here lizard, lizard." — Belvedere Overlook.A small mural on the side of a votive shrine at the Belvedere Overlook.A votive shrine at the Belvedere Overlook.A small mural on the side of a votive shrine at the Belvedere Overlook.A more expansive view of one of the mountains we enjoy from our apartment.

    On the Way Back

    4 juli, Italië

    Leaving Lago di Misurina, we planned to take an entirely different route back to Colle Santa Lucia.

    Unfortunately, we got turned around as we were leaving the parking lot. So, we followed the route from this morning through Cortina d’Ampezzo (OMG the traffic!). But then, at the junction with SP638, we stayed on SR48 for a change of scenery.

    It was well worth the few additional minutes that this detour added to our drive. As well as getting to enjoy another area of the Dolomiti — on a road that had fewer crazy hairpin turns — we came across an interesting iron and stone sculpture at the overlook near the Belvedere Grill-Bar. A plaque nearby provided an explanation about the Valentino Moro sculpture, entitled “Challenge” …

    “Poised between the earth and the sky, a severed trunk, sturdy and gnarled, stretches out into the void. A new life, a larch, rises from the branch of the stunned stem, symbolizing the triumph of the instinct to survive in every condition and circumstance. The sculpture attests the will to resist, to overcome the pain of the appalling tragedy brought on by the Vaia Storm that, in October 2018, caused the crashing of millions of trees and the destruction of thousands of hectares of forest in the alpine region of the Triveneto.”

    We had not heard of this storm … or if we did, we did not associate it with this region. Curious, when we got back to the apartment I looked up the storm. Devastating by any measure, the description I found on the “Guide Dolomiti” website was shocking to say the least. I’m adding the link here for anyone interested (you may have to translate it using your device app) … https://www.guidedolomiti.com/varie/tempesta-vaia/.

    And on that note, it’s time to call it a day and wrap up today’s outing.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    A quick snapshot of Lake Misurina as we passed through earlier in the day.
    A quick snapshot of Lake Misurina as we passed through earlier in the day.Lago di Misurina — Dolomiti, Italy.1View from our table at Quinz Locanda al Lago — Lago di Misurina, Italy.From the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.From the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.From the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.Quinz Locanda al Lago ... our lunch spot — Lago di Misurina, Italy.From the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.From the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.Mama and her ducklings ... from the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.Mama and her ducklings ... from the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.From the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.From the trail around the lake — Lago di Misurina, Italy.

    Dolomiti: Lago di Misurina

    4 juli, Italië

    With the crowds around Rifugio Lavaredo growing in leaps and bounds, it was time for us to leave. Retracing our steps, we felt like salmon swimming upstream as we hiked back to Rifugio Auronzo.

    We were on the 11:30a bus back down to the parking lot. We debated leaving the car where it was and walking to one of the restaurants overlooking Lake Misurina. After a brief discussion, however, we decided to drive the short distance, find a place for lunch, and then walk the trail that circumnavigates the lake afterwards.

    Lake Misurina — referred to as the Pearl of the Dolomites — is the largest natural lake of the Cadore … a historical region of the Province of Belluno. Sitting at 5,755 feet (1,754m) above sea level, not only is it quite scenic, but also affords comfortable temps. If there is a residential neighborhood, we did not see it. Instead, we found several hotels and restaurants along one side of the lakeshore, and a lovely forest on the other side.

    We expected that Lake Misurina would be very crowded, but it was rather quiet when we arrived. Finding a table with a lake view at Quinz Locanda al Lago turned out to be quite easy. We enjoyed cold beverages and a light meal … entertained by ducks and other waterfowl swimming about, and a couple of pedal boats moving lazily on the water.

    After lunch, we headed off to walk around the lake … a 1.7-mile easy loop that returned us to the car. Along the way, we considered taking the Col de Varda Chairlift to see the lake from a higher vantage point. But the wind was picking up and swinging about on a chairlift didn’t seem like a good idea.

    Besides, the crowds were increasing … tour buses dropping off people as they vied for parking spots. Time to leave and head back to our tranquil village.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    1View from the parking lot where we left the car to ride Dolomiti Bus.
    1View from the parking lot where we left the car to ride Dolomiti Bus.2Find Mui in the Dolomiti Bus queue near the parking lot.Panorama of the view from where Dolomiti Bus drops off passengers.That's Lake Misurina down there ... our car is somewhere near there.Looking down to the valley from Refugio Auronzo near the Tre Cime di Lavaredo trailhead.Hiking to Refugio Lavaredo ... Refugio Auronzo is the white building on the right.Tre Cime di Lavaredo trail ... this section is flat and easySmall church built by the 12th Battalion of the Bersaglieri in 1917.Memorial plaques near the church with Tre Cime in the background.'Rock graffiti' just off the Tre Cime di Lavaredo trail.Tre Cime and the Refugio Lavaredo.That's me in the coral jacket — Tre Cime and the Refugio Lavaredo.4Tre Cime and the Refugio Lavaredo.Near the Refugio Lavaredo.Near the Refugio Lavaredo.Near the Refugio Lavaredo.2Hikers continuing onto one of many long hikes in the area.

    Dolomiti: Tre Cime di Lavaredo

    4 juli, Italië

    The popular sites of the Dolomiti get very crowded during the summer season. To control the numbers, restrictions are put in place … requiring parking reservations, advance ticket purchases for gondolas, etc.

    We didn’t want to constrain ourselves, so our plan was to wing it. We’d visit these places when the mood struck … and the weather cooperated. If we could get in … great. If not, well so be it.

    Today’s destination was Tre Cime di Lavaredo (the Three Summits of Lavaredo) … part of the Dolomiti di Sesto group. They are apparently some of the most famous mountains in the world of mountaineering. I’ll admit I had not heard of them until we started planning our ‘escape the heat’ trip.

    Yesterday, with the forecast for today promising nothing but sunshine, Mui checked to see if there were any cancelations for parking reservations. None showed up. So, we proceeded with plan B … park near Lake Misurina and take the Dolomiti Bus up to Rifugio Auronzo at 7,654 feet (2,333m).

    Using the EasyPark app, we paid for the parking and joined the bus queue. Long though the queue seemed, we found ourselves on the next bus at 8:40a … standing all the way up.

    When we got off the bus, we were greeted by expansive views, a crisp breeze, and a temperature of 50F (10C). It felt very refreshing. Nonetheless, we were happy that we had our rain jackets with us … they served as good wind breaks.

    From Rifugio Auronzo, we found the trailhead to Refugio Lavaredo and joined everyone else heading to the Tre Cime. With an elevation gain of merely 46 feet (14m), the trail was flat and easy … at least the section we hiked.

    The hike to go around to the other side of the Tre Cime was a whole different matter. No problem … the long hike, going up scree slopes to continue around to the other side, was not on our agenda today. Especially not after seeing people hiking up single column, one after another in close formation.

    To get away from the crowd around the refugio, we followed a narrow path before going off trail for some of the best views of the Tre Cime. With everyone else left behind, it was nice and peaceful.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On the way up to Passo di Giau — Dolomiti, Italy.
    On the way up to Passo di Giau — Dolomiti, Italy.2On the way up to Passo di Giau — Dolomiti, Italy.2The mountains are dotted with refuge huts ... on the way up to Passo di Giau — Dolomiti, Italy.On the way up to Passo di Giau — Dolomiti, Italy.From Passo di Giau (elev. 7,336 ft [2,236m])— Dolomiti, Italy.On the way down from Passo di Giau — Dolomiti, Italy.On the way down from Passo di Giau — Dolomiti, Italy.On the way down from Passo di Giau — Dolomiti, Italy.2Minor Basilica of Saints Philip and James (founded 1769) — Cortina d'Ampezzo, Italy.On SR48 after leaving Cortina d'Ampezzo — Dolomiti, Italy.

    Off to Explore the Dolomiti

    4 juli, Italië

    At least a small part of it.

    Our day started early … out the door at 6:30a for drive of just under 30 miles, which Google said would take a little over an hour. That should tell you how twisty-curvy the two-way mountain roads we drove were… with some serious hairpin turns.

    We went through tunnels that hid the views until they opened up to spectacular scenery at the other end. We drove up to go through mountain passes. We drove down to meadows where goats, sheep, and cows were having munching on fresh, green grass. Despite the early hour, there was quite a bit of traffic … cars, vans, motor homes, motorcycles, and bicycles … more power to the latter climbing the steep roads.

    No stops along the way … except for a quick one at Passo de Giau so Mui could secure whatever was rolling around in the trunk.

    Here are a few quick drive-by shots of the scenery as we made our way to Cortina d’Ampezzo and beyond.

    PS. Cortina d’Ampezzo is the major city in the area, and one that is a popular base for most visitors. Having now seen the crowds, traffic, and hustle-and-bustle, so glad we opted to stay in Colle Santa Lucia.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Heading off to find AdBlue for our rental car — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.
    Heading off to find AdBlue for our rental car — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.1View of the village as we head up to the trail — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Old wooden buildings are interspersed with modern structures — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Looking down the valley as we make our way to the trail — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Sculpture on the way to the trail — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.An "edicole votive" (votive shrine) on the way to the trail — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.We've already gained 220 feet from where we started @ 4,767 feet — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.3Fireweed ... tradition has it that when the flowers reach the top, winter is around the corner.2A peek down to the village from the trail — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.2The church bells echo all the way up to trail — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Signs along the trail tell a story — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Poppies on the trail — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.4I love this view of the village church and the scenic background — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.A cute wind vane in a garden in the village — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.This is where we had lunch — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.A delicious lunch @ Fursil — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.

    Colle Santa Lucia: A Hike & A Meal

    3 juli, Italië

    Another relaxing day at the apartment … at least in the morning and afternoon. In between, we went for a hike and then grabbed a bite for lunch here in the village.

    After breakfast, Mui drove to a nearby village … larger than Colle Santa Lucia. His aim was to find a gas station that sold AdBlue, an additive required for diesel vehicles … which our rental car is. Success.

    By the time he returned, I was ready for our outing.

    Our first stop was the small tourist office in the square … to ask about hikes in the area. We walked out with a map and a recommendation to tackle the 4.5-mile Alta Via dell’Orso hike.

    “It starts out steep but levels out” was the way the woman at the counter described it! Hah!!! She must not have done the hike herself. It was up, up, and up! So, we cobbled together our own trail by taking a spur that returned us to the village by way of another route. Sure, we hiked less distance, but still got in plenty of steps … and enjoyed the occasional views peeking out from behind the trees lining the trail.

    Back down in the village nearly two hours later, we headed to Fursil, the local pizzeria recommended by our hosts. The tables outside were already full — too much cigarette smoke anyway — so we sat indoors. The food was delicious — pasta with mushrooms; pork Milanese (surprisingly reasonable portion); mixed salad with crisp greens; profiteroles … all to share.

    Back at the apartment … we had a quiet afternoon … the noise from the jackhammers at the retaining wall repair site not nearly as intrusive as they were yesterday. I did laundry while Mui napped. Later, we planned tomorrow’s outing, which will take us further afield.

    Tea — and later, wine & snacks — on the balcony to wrap up our day.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Though the clouds move in for a while, the light is bright today — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.
    Though the clouds move in for a while, the light is bright today — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Main street in Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Residential street on the way up to the church — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Building on the right is Cesa de Jan ... it dates to 1612 — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Residential street on the way up to the church — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Residential street on the way up to the church — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Residential street on the way up to the church — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Residential street on the way up to the church — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colorful flowers are everywhere — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Struck by lightning in 1753, which melted the bells, a new tower was built the following year.First built in the 13th century, the church underwent restorations and changes over the centuries.Chiesa di Colle Santa Lucia ... the high altar dates to the 17th century.A mural and a stained glass window from Chiesa di Colle Santa Lucia.Cemetery with a view ... Chiesa di Colle Santa Lucia.From the grounds of Chiesa di Colle Santa Lucia.1Center: Monte Cernera Cima Nord (2,664m) & Sud (2,657m) and Monte Mondeval (2,455m) next to it.L to R: Monte Mondeval (2,455m) & Cime di Forca Rossa (2,724m) & Monte Pelmo & Pelmetto.A closer look at some of the villages in the valley — from Chiesa di Colle Santa Lucia.Cime di Forca Rossa (2,724m) and Monte Pelmo (3,172m) & Monte Pelmetto 2,996m) — from the church.In the cemetery at Chiesa di Colle Santa Lucia.In the cemetery at Chiesa di Colle Santa Lucia.The cemetery at Chiesa di Colle Santa Lucia.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.It's time for wine on the balcony — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.1Monte Pelmo (3,172m) & Monte Pelmetto 2,996m) ... the setting sun warming the color of the rocks.

    Exploring Colle Santa Lucia

    2 juli, Italië

    This day was always going to be a quiet one … to rest after our train ride and drive through the mountains.

    And that’s exactly what we did. So, there is no long story for today.

    Mui napped … twice. I read and caught up on writing yesterday’s FindPenguins footprints on the balcony … putting on a light jacket when the cool breeze warranted doing so. Though there was rain in the forecast, nary a drop fell … despite the clouds moving in occasionally.

    Absolutely loving the comfy temps.

    With our larder stocked after yesterday’s shopping trip — and another one for a few essentials this morning from the village “negozio” (shop) that was closed yesterday — we ate all of our meals at home … afternoon tea and wine & snacks on the balcony off the dining room where there is a cute little table that folds down from the wall.

    We did go out in the late afternoon for a look-see around the village. Our explorations took us up to the church. We later learned that the cemetery that wraps around three sides of the church is the oldest in the region.

    We were back at the apartment in time to catch the changing colors on the mountains across the way as the sun set.

    A perfectly relaxing day.    Meer informatie

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  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Our ship ... our itinerary.
    Our ship ... our itinerary.

    BKB: 12 Days … How Many Ports!?

    1 juli, Italië

    BKB, in the vernacular of Havila passengers, refers to the Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen roundtrip coastal voyage. It’s the itinerary we booked.

    Over the 12-days it will take M/S Havila Castor to complete the route, we will be stopping at 34 different ports.

    No, that’s not a typo.

    There will be 34 ports of call on the way up north. And 34 again on the way down south.

    How is this possible?

    Well, remember, m/s Havila Castor is not a cruise ship. Rather, it is better described as a ferry that conveys everything from mail to people from one place to another.

    While there are stops of 3-4 hours in some ports … and occasional 1- to 2-hour stops as well, most are just long enough to drop off or pick up mail and goods, and embark or disembark passengers … 10 minutes, 15 minutes, 20 minutes. Also, stops are made at all hours of the day and night. The ports you miss while you’re sleeping in one direction you stop at during daylight in the other direction.

    You get the idea. Essentially, we will be passengers on a working ship.    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Welcome to Colle Santa Lucia ... iconic view as we drive to Cesa dele Angele.
    Welcome to Colle Santa Lucia ... iconic view as we drive to Cesa dele Angele.Cesa dele Angele (the stairs go up to the owner's apartment) — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Our apartment @ Cesa dele Angele is named BEC (deer) — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Living room; dining area behind the divider ... Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Dining area (like the living room, there is a balcony here) ... Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa LuciaKitchen — compact but with all the amenities ... Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.2Welcome gift ... including homemade jams and eggs from their own chickens ... Cesa dele Angele.Bedroom ... with its own balcony ... Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.From each of the three balconies we have a lovely view ... Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia.Panorama from the bedroom balcony ... Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Bathroom ... with sauna ... Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Aperol spritz for me ... lemonade for the driver (Mui) @ Chiosco Bar da Silver — Colle Santa Lucia.Würstel sandwiches and crispy patatine (potato fries) @ Chiosco Bar da Silver — Colle Santa Lucia.Loving these temps in Colle Santa Lucia ... it's cooled down some in Bologna, but still hot.

    Welcome to Colle Santa Lucia

    1 juli, Italië

    Colle Santa Lucia (Santa Lucia Hill) is the first of two base of operations for our ‘escape the heat’ trip into the mountains.

    This Italian municipality of just 338 permanent inhabitants is located in the Fodom Valley, one of five valleys in the territory of Ladinia. It is a quiet and peaceful place … away from the hub-bub of the popular locations of the Dolomiti. That it sits at an elevation ranging from 4,200 to 4,900 feet (1,300-1,500m) guarantees comfy temps. Scenic and cool = perfect in our book.

    Our home away from home for the next nine nights is the family-operated Cesa dele Angele, a boutique property in a building that dates back to the 17th century. The name comes from a previous family that lived in the building — Angela and her three unmarried daughters … hence “Le Angele.”

    We were greeted by Raffaella, the owner, who apologized profusely for the construction work across the road — repairing the retaining wall that is in danger of collapsing. The work meant that we’d have to park in the square — a two-minute walk … if that. No worries. We did so after unloading the bags at the door.

    Raffaella escorted us down to BEC (deer), the second floor apartment … below the street level … and overlooking a beautiful, green-clad valley with mountains across the way. Beautiful setting … even under skies portending rain.

    After settling in, we decided to drive back about a mile to the slightly larger hamlet of Selva di Cadore to grab a bite to eat and supply our kitchen with the necessities to self-cater some of our meals. We didn’t get far. The sprinkling rain and the increasing chill had us returning to the apartment for rain gear. A smart move, as it turns out. It was raining cats and dogs as we pulled out of the parking lot.

    From the limited dining venues in the immediate area, we decided to go to Chiosco Bar da Silver — a tiny roadside kiosk on our way to Selva di Cadore. On a clear day, it probably has an amazing view. This evening, the scenery was hidden behind a heavy sheet of rain. That did not stop us, however, from enjoying our drinks and grilled würstel (frankfurter) sandwiches and crispy fries.

    Continuing on to Selva di Cadore, we made short work of our shopping at Margherita Conad … after stopping at Val Fiorentina first for a delicious gelato. Then back to the apartment.

    An admittedly soggy start to our escape in the mountains. But not a single word of complaint from us. We’re loving the cooler temps … even if the rain storm added an additional chill factor.

    We’re both tired from our travel day and plan to turn in early tonight … in a bedroom where we don’t have to rely on the A/C to get relief from the heat. Such a relief!    Meer informatie

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    A storm brewing at the higher elevations — on the way to Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.
    A storm brewing at the higher elevations — on the way to Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Receding glacier — on the way to Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Driving in the Dolomiti — on the way to Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.1Driving in the Dolomiti — on the way to Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Sheep on the slopes of a mountain ... driving in the Dolomiti — on the way to Colle Santa Lucia.Sheep on the slopes of a mountain ... driving in the Dolomiti — on the way to Colle Santa Lucia.1Luckily, we didn't have to follow this tractor for long ... driving in the Dolomiti.Monte Pelmo & Monte Pelmetto ... right around 10,000 feet (3,172-2,996 m) — Dolomiti, Italy.2Almost at Colle Santa Lucia — Dolomiti, Italy.

    On Our Way to Colle Santa Lucia

    1 juli, Italië

    Our 2-hour and 50 minute train ride didn’t seem to take that long. With just three stops before we reached Bolzano — Verona, Rovereto, and Trento — the time flew by.

    Leaving Verona, the train reversed direction, which meant traveling backwards for the rest of the way to Bolzano. It also meant that the sun was now on our side. So much for the careful seat selection. Not that it really mattered. The tinted windows kept the heat at bay, and there was a pull down screen to cut down the glare. The A/C on the train kept us comfortable without freezing us.

    We pulled into the Bolzano Station two minutes late … no big deal. The train had become increasingly crowded with each passing stop … passengers wandering from one car to the other in search of open seats (red lights and digital displays above the seats indicated which ones were pre-reserved and for which segment of the ride). We hadn’t even detrained yet when our seats were grabbed up by someone. Definitely worth it to us to pay the €3pp to be able to select seats in advance and not go through the hassle once on board.

    From the station we walked to the Sixt office a short distance away to pick up our rental car. Paperwork signed, we walked to the parking structure at the other end of the street to collect the car. By this time, a bit overheated, we couldn’t wait to get out of the city.

    The GPS showed the distance to Colle Santa Lucia as 55 miles … the driving time as a little over 2 hours … via narrow, twisty-turny, undivided two-way roads. The speed limits ranged between 18 mph to 55 mph … though there were some sections where we didn’t feel comfortable driving at the high end of the range. No matter. We were not in a hurry. About 30-40 minutes into the drive, we pretty much had the road to ourselves … except when driving through some of the larger towns.

    It didn’t take long for the low-altitude temps to disappear when we got into the mountains. Clouds moved in and we had some sprinkles of rain. A misty veil in the higher elevations signified that the wet stuff was falling steadily there. The lowest temp we saw on the gauge during the drive was 58F … otherwise a fairly steady 68-70F. YAY!

    The owner of the property we booked for this part of our trip kindly arranged an early check-in for us — instead of the usual 5:00p. So, we did not dally along the way. We enjoyed the scenery from the car … with some drive-by photography.

    By 2:20p, we were driving the last bit of the road to Colle Santa Lucia.    Meer informatie

    Zie vertaling
  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Our 4-stop route highlighted — Onboard ÖBB's RailJet from Bologna to Bolzano.
    Our 4-stop route highlighted — Onboard ÖBB's RailJet from Bologna to Bolzano.All settled in and at work already — Onboard ÖBB's RailJet from Bologna to Bolzano.Looking down car 265 — Onboard ÖBB's RailJet from Bologna to Bolzano.

    On Our Way to Bolzano

    1 juli, Italië

    Bolzano — known as Bozen in German … the area is officially bi-lingual Italian/German — is in the South Tyrol province in northern Italy.

    A gateway to the Dolomiti — Dolomites in English — Bolzano is where we will begin our 18-day ‘escape the heat’ trip. We’ll be in the city just long enough to pick up a rental car to head up into the mountains.

    Our day commenced early … out the door at 6:30a. Although the recent heat dome finally broke with a seriously strong wind-rain-thunder-lightning storm Monday night, it was still quite warm at that hour … humid, too. Instead of walking or taking the bus, we opted to take a taxi for an easy start … which gave us time for a cappuccino & cornetto breakfast at Bologna Centrale.

    The Austrian ÖBB RailJet train — eventual destination München, Germany — pulled into platform 9 a few minutes ahead of the scheduled 7:45a departure. There were no signs indicating where to stand on the platform for the specific train car for which we had tickets. Lucky us … car 265 stopped right in front of us!

    We were initially assigned seats in a quadruple-booth, which we later changed to two-together seats. This newer model of the RailJet trains is quite comfy. There is a table in the seat back; a narrow ledge where you can set your devices upright to watch a movie or what have you … with a built-in magnetic charger and a USB outlet. There’s also a power point for charging. Wi-fi is complimentary.

    As we head to our first stop — Verona — the scenery is rural for the most part … lots of greenhouses and agricultural fields … some green; some lying fallow; others dotted with rolls of hay bales. We passed an amazing field of brilliant yellow sunflowers … alas, my phone was off, so no photo. Occasional small towns.

    It’s been a pleasant ride thus far … almost 45-minutes into the ride already. Less than two hours left to go.    Meer informatie

    Zie vertaling

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