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South America 2023
  • Bob Scott
Okt – Nov 2023

South America 2023

We are off travelling again, this time to South America. Over the next four weeks we will visit four countries Peru, Chile, Argentina and Brazil staying in thirteen different hotels and differing methods of transport. Baca lagi
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    11 Oktober 2023
    Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    The late plane to Lima!
    A welcome sight!

    We’re off!

    11 Oktober 2023, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We had an early start and were picked up at 4.30 for the journey to Heathrow. Check in was unnecessarily long and Lima seemed to cause lots of problems as we are transiting through Madrid. The BA flight took off on time and arrived in Madrid only to find our Lima flight which was due to leave at 13.40 is now scheduled for 15.00.!!!
    Flight over was long, 11 hours and we were delighted to touch down in Lima and be greeted in the Arrivals Hall by Audley’s local rep Daniel who took us to the waiting car and driver Frankie and on to our hotel. This was about a fifty minute drive but we were very impressed with the warm welcome from Daniel and his enthusiastic descriptions of the city and Peruvian food and drink..
    The hotel is in the Miraflores area of the city and is very comfortable and 22 hours after leaving home a very welcome sight!    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Two go to Lima!
    I predict a riot!Frankie, our guideThe Old CityThe Pacific Ocean, a typical grey dayThis is a chocolate fruit at the market1Originally an orphanage then a station now a college

    Lima

    12 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Following a long day of travel yesterday, unsurprisingly we were quite early to bed. However, as is often the case when flying West, with a 6 hour time difference and our bodies time clock not adjusted, we were awake very early this morning.

    Today, Audley had booked a half day Culinary and Cultural tour of Lima. We were collected promptly at 9am by our guide Frankie, and driver Rolando. Frankie was very knowledgeable about Lima and I think it is fair to say that prior to this visit we knew little about Lima and indeed Peru.

    A few pieces of information that Frankie enlightened us on are:

    - Lima is allegedly the driest capital city in the world. There are no drains in the road and most of the properties have a flat roof. The temperature never drops below 12C and never rises above 30C. This leads to almost permanent overcast days. The rationale given is that the city is caught between the Andes on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other.
    A very bland weather pattern.

    - 100 years ago the population of the old city where all the inhabitants lived was 300,000. Then it was decided to expand the city and as of today the population is in excess of 11 million.

    - The expanding population has created 2 problems- traffic and crime. There is no metro system and the public transport, ie buses and trains is erratic. Driving is a nightmare. On the crime front there are more police on the streets than we have seen in any other city, some with riot shields. We have though felt safe and have adhered to the warnings about not wearing jewellery and being careful with cameras and phones.

    - There is a lot of corruption at the top of government which seems endemic in South America. Despite all the advantages of agriculture and mining (Peru is a significant exporter of copper and lithium) the Peruvians are generally poor. There is no state help. There are many street food vendors, and others trying to make a living, for here, if you don’t work you don’t eat. Anybody can buy a cheap taxi sign, display it on their car and become a taxi driver. There is no licencing or regulation.

    - Peru is very closely attached to China. 25% of all exports go to China. There are quite a few Chinese manufactured cars the makes of which we have never heard of.

    - Peru has the same problem that many other countries around the world have, immigration. In recent years over 1.4m Venezuelans have come to Peru. This country struggles to look after its own leave alone 1.4m more.

    We had an interesting tour with Frankie who took us round the old city. We visited the catacombs beneath the cathedral, and a fascinating market selling all sorts of produce. One thing that Peru is renowned for is its cuisine. We finished the tour at a typical Peruvian restaurant where we had ceviches, fried fish and Causa which is a dish of mashed potato topped with fish or meat and then more potato. It was delicious.

    Had a quiet afternoon catching up on the travelling in advance of going out tonight. We found a craft beer bar near us selling 18 different varieties of beer and watched a bit of the World Cup qualifier between Argentina and Paraguay before moving on for dinner at Alfresco a seafood restaurant which was quite excellent. One of the many highlights of South America is the quality and presentation of its food.

    Tomorrow we fly down to Arequipa a ninety minute flight, here we may start to see the effects of altitude as we are going higher.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Happy birthday at Zig Zag
    The Eifell stairsView from the hotel rooftop, note the volcanoesFounders House garden and shany townWith GerardoPotatoes and more potatoesWith Patricia at the conventCathedralThe White City

    Arequipa

    14 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We left our hotel at 7:30 to drive to the airport but once again the skies were overcast. Driving in Peru makes driving in Italy a “walk in the park”! Traffic is solid, pretty much all the way with horns blaring continuously, there is no courtesy of letting somebody in - very selfish driving.

    Anyhow we arrived at the airport in one piece and found our terminal rammed with people either checking in or waiting around seeing people off. Surprisingly though we found the check in process to be quite slick and were soon at our gate waiting for the flight to be called. There were people everywhere but once again the system worked OK and we took off exactly on time.

    On arrival in Arequipa we were met by Gerardo, our guide, and our driver Washington. The drive into town to our hotel took about 50 minutes due to traffic and en route Gerardo gave us information on Arequipa. The city is overshadowed by volcanoes, not all of which are dormant. It has suffered with a number of earthquakes over the years and regular tremors are commonplace.

    Once we had checked into our hotel which is very centrally located in the main square, we had a walk around the city. It is a most attractive city and has been termed the White City. This is particularly evident early evening when the sun is going down and the buildings almost glow white. It has many of its old buildings built with volcanic stone (Sillar) which is white and very strong. The stone absorbs the heat during the day to keep buildings cool and then the warmth comes out in the evening.

    The weather here, unlike Lima, is splendid - clear blue skies and temperature in early 20’s which is similar all year round except during the rainy season which is their summer - December to February. It gets chilly in the evening when the sun goes down.

    Before leaving England we had booked a restaurant, ZigZag, for dinner this evening. It had a number of excellent reviews. The food and presentation exceeded our expectations. The main courses are served on a very hot volcanic stone with sauces and vegetables alongside. We had to wear paper bibs to stop splatters from the sizzling meat. I had told them in advance that it was Jane’s birthday and they very kindly provided a plate with 2 chocolate brownies and candles before our dessert. A feature of this restaurant is the spiral staircase which was designed by Gustav Eiffel (of tower fame).

    Today, Saturday, we awoke again to blue skies and a lovely temperature. Breakfast at our hotel is served on the rooftop giving lovely views over the city to the volcanoes beyond. After breakfast we met with Gerardo again for our guided tour. First of all we visited the cathedral which was most impressive and then got into the car to drive through the city to the Founder’s House. There are areas of the city which are like a shanty town built on volcanic rock and again, like Lima, driving here is an experience. The Founder’s House was lovely. It is a little way out of the city and as the name suggests, was originally built by the founder of Arequipa. It has a lovely garden but now looks out on to the shanty town.

    We drove back into the city and visited the market where you could buy everything and anything. Very very busy. The food market was very impressive and is where all the city restaurants get their supplies. Peru grows many varieties of potatoes at different heights around the country and by the volume of potatoes on sale Peruvians clearly enjoy a spud!

    Last but not least on today’s tour was the Santa Catalina convent where we said our goodbyes to Gerardo and hello to Patricia who took us round. She was great fun. The convent is still occupied by nuns who are cloistered but not silent. Whilst at the convent Patricia mentioned that there would be a partial eclipse of the sun at 2.14. It was amazing to see a reflection on the floor of the moon partially covering the sun.
    We have been hugely impressed with Peru and the Peruvian people. Everybody, without exception, has been friendly, smiley and happy to help. We have felt very welcome and safe.

    So far we have been okay with the altitude. Arequipa is 2,300 metres above sea level but tomorrow we drive to Colca Canyon where we go through an area in excess of 5,000 metres before dropping down to just over 3,000 metres.

    We have been told to keep well hydrated with water and snacks to keep glucose levels up. An excellent excuse to have coffee and cake for health reasons. All to cope with altitude.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Laura, always cheerful
    Tornado!5000 metres high, note the volcanoesAlpacasAt the head of Colca Valley where the condors are seenAncient terracing in the valleyTime for a Pisco SourLaura and Alfonso

    Altitude, Volcanoes and Condors!

    15 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Sunday morning at breakfast we heard music blaring outside the hotel so being curious had to find out what was going on. The main square where our hotel is was filling up with people and some small groups of military people and a band. This happens every Sunday when the Peruvian flag is raised in the square. Fun to watch for a few minutes but we were becoming a bit concerned as our guide for the next two days was collecting us at 8:30 and there was no way a vehicle was going to get close to the hotel. Anyhow Laura, our guide arrived on time and we had to walk a few blocks to meet our driver, Alfonso, who was going to take us high into the Andes.
    Driving through the suburbs of Arequipa was an eye opener to see the conditions that so many people have to live in. Very difficult to describe but buildings are falling apart the roads are bad but the people generally appear happy.
    We could tell early on that we were going to get on well with Laura and Alfonso though he spoke no English. Laura , until last year, had been mayor of her town on the outskirts of Arequipa for four years and was quite outspoken about the political state of the country. Peru has so much wealth with minerals including copper,, lithium, cobalt, gold and silver and huge fruit and vegetable production yet so many people are poor.
    Shortly after leaving Arequipa we started coming across convoys of trucks coming in the opposite direction. They were bringing copper from the mines down to the coast and onward for export principally to China.
    Once we had cleared them the landscape started to change . We saw many wild llama, alpaca and vicuña and on the horizon volcanoes, a number of which were smoking. They are not particularly active but a sight to see. We reached 5000 metres high and all around we could see even more volcanoes. The picture below will not do it justice. Another highlight of the journey was seeing some small tornadoes, see photo below.
    Tonight and Monday night we are staying at the Colca Lodge hotel in the Colca Valley where we arrived early afternoon. Marvellous hotel in a very remote location with its major attraction being hot pools by the river in front of the hotel. A truly relaxing experience!
    Today, Monday, Laura and Alfonso picked us up at 7am for our drive through the Colca Valley to the Colca Canyon to hopefully see condors. The drive was incredible. The weather was great with clear blue skies and the landscape here in the Andes was indescribable. There is so much history with what the Incas did here and the people before them. As you can imagine there are many steep sides to the landscape but this has been terraced over hundreds of years to enable agriculture.
    We arrived at the view point to see the condors. This is only possible first thing in the morning when the thermals are suitable to enable them to glide. What a sight it is to see these large birds gliding through the air,
    Driving through the valley it is clear to see how hard the local people have to work on the land and understandable why the younger people choose to leave and seek their fortunes in the cities for what they might consider an easier life.
    Tomorrow we are off to our next destination Puno which is on the banks of Lake Titicaca. This will be a six hour coach trip.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    1Condor
    CondorA hummingbirdOff to the hot poolHot poolsWill Leicester get promoted this year?

    On to Puno and Lake Titicaca

    17 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    This morning, Tuesday, is the first morning that we haven’t had to get up promptly either to catch a flight or meet our guide. We are being collected by taxi at 12:15 and driven to the nearby town of Chivay where we will catch the bus to Puno, about a six hour journey.
    We have then taken the opportunity to have a leisurely breakfast and enjoy the hot water pools in the hotel garden.
    Since leaving Lima the weather has settled into a familiar pattern, warm in the morning with clear blue skies, then it clouds over mid afternoon with sometimes a few spots of rain and then cooler in the evening.
    We have mentioned before the quality of the food and drink here but what we have not mentioned is the fact that the prices are a lot lower than the UK. For example the birthday meal for Jane in Arequipa at one of the better restaurants came to £60 for exceptional food and drink.
    Laura, our guide yesterday, was commenting about tourism in Peru. Obviously they were affected by the pandemic but since then civil unrest in the country has put people off coming which is such a shame as it is a lovely country and well worth visiting.
    A few more photos from yesterday and today.
    It was an interesting journey to Puno. The taxi delivered us to where the bus was leaving from but it was deserted! The taxi driver made a call and assured us that all will be OK and suggested we went and had a sandwich which we did and on our return lo and behold people were starting to gather. We were on a 12 seater minibus plus driver and guide. We were the only English on board others being German, French and a number of Spanish speakers.
    The route took us through the Andes initially on the route we had taken from Arequipa on Sunday. Soon though the scenery changed and became very desolate and quite grim. We would go through areas where there were buildings for a settlement which looked derelict and deserted but on closer inspection it was evident that people were living here. It was quite an eye opener. The journey was fine, we made three stops and arrived in Puno just before 7 where we were met and taken to our hotel in good time to watch the Peru v Argentina World Cup qualifier.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Approaching the Uros island
    The traditional boatRonald, our guideRoxanna, a very friendly ladyInside Roxanna's, 4 sleep hereSmallholdingsQuite high hereShooting the breeze!Inside the "restaurant", the owner and cookDescription of the families activities in Llachon

    Wonderful Lake Titicaca

    18 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We were collected at the hotel just before 8am this morning by our new guide, Ronald. We drove to the port to join our boat that was to take us on the lake today. Seeing Puno in daylight confirmed what we had heard about this place, a bit grim. Our hotel is on the edge of town overlooking the lake but we have no plans to venture into Puno on our own!
    Lake Titicaca is the largest navigable lake in the world and is 3800 metres above sea level, though the depth of the water has fallen by several metres in recent years due to lack of rainfall in the area. It is 100 miles long and 50 miles wide bordered on one side by Peru and the other by Bolivia. We set off on a very pleasant morning with blue skies and the temperature rising. Our first stop was to be one of the Uros islands. These islands are inhabited by the Uros people and have been here for hundreds of years though their numbers are falling as once again the younger people are being lured away by the apparent riches of city life.
    The islands are built entirely on reeds which grow on the banks of the lake. Unfortunately the reduction in water level has meant a reduction in the height of the reeds they can harvest by 2 to 3 metres. When you step off the boat on to the island it is like stepping on to a mattress for it is very springy. The reeds have to be continually replaced as they rot in the water. The houses on the island are also made of reed. On this island 6 families made up of 35 people of all ages live - a strange existence. They were pleased to see us though and happy to show us their wares which were for sale. This was mainly embroidered work, blankets, pillow cases. We also took a brief trip on one of their traditional boats which was also made of reed.
    On leaving the Uros people we sailed on for another hour to a small community named Llachon on the mainland but some way from Puno and this was like going back in time a hundred years or so. There was only one road which when it reached the centre ceased being tarmac. Everywhere else was dusty rocky paths. The people here are largely self sufficient and have a small holding where they may have a few pigs, grow their own vegetables and maybe help with the few number of trout farms that are dotted around. All the ladies wear traditional costumes and work hard. The married ladies wear distinctive embroidered hats which vary depending on where they come from. It was a tradition that the man would make a hat for his new wife and she would embroider a poncho for him to be presented on their wedding day. Nowadays the intricate embroidery can be done by machine.
    Ronald took us for lunch at the only “restaurant”. This appeared quite primitive but the lady in there provided an excellent lunch of a large bowl of quinoa vegetable soup followed by trout with potatoes, rice and vegetables . Ashamed to say we could not eat it all.
    This has been an excellent day seeing yet another side to Peru. As always everyone was so friendly and welcoming and Ronald was an excellent guide. He put into context Peru’s problem with tourism. Prior to Covid the country attracted 4m visitors a year and this was growing however last year this had reduced to 600,000 due to Covid and the civil unrest in the country.
    Another early start tomorrow as we leave Puno at 7:30 taking the train to Cusco arriving there at 17:50. Looking forward to it.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Inside our carriage
    The observation carriageThe trainJuliacaThe train going through JuliacaA view from the observation carriage

    Train to Cusco

    19 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We had a relaxing evening in the hotel bar with some cocktails followed by pizza and wine. The pizza plus 2 glasses of wine came to £15 approx. Such good value.
    We were picked up at 6.40 this morning to go to the station. We had to be there for 7 in order to check in luggage prior to boarding. There was a band playing on the platform.
    The train is very comfortable - a bit like the Pullman we have at home. We had 2 comfortable armchairs and could move around carriage as not very busy. There are three passenger coaches, an observation coach at the back and a coach for the kitchen.
    The train departed at 7.30. Breakfast was available to buy but after that lunch and tea were included along with water, tea and coffee.
    The countryside around Puno was rather bleak but after a while the views improved. It is such a vast country but so much is uninhabitable. There is a lot of poverty and very basic housing. It is strange to see llamas and alpacas roaming freely. Shortly after leaving Puno we went through Juliaca a city of over 1m people and what a grim place this was! The train literally goes through the city centre with market traders almost on the track as the train crawls through.
    On the train we were treated to a display of dancing followed by a fashion show of local alpaca clothing whilst drinking Pisco Sours - obviously in the hope of making a sale,!
    We had a drink before our 3 course lunch which was excellent and beautifully served. The lunch was included in our train ticket. We had soup to start plus three types of bread - tomato, cheese and fruit. This was followed by steak for Bob and Risotto made from quinoa with mushrooms and asparagus for Jane. Dessert was a chocolate slice with strawberry coulis. The meal was served with wine plus coffee and petit fours. Peruvian food continues to impress.
    After lunch we reached the highest point of the journey and stopped for about 10 minutes. Unfortunately it was pouring with rain which will be very welcome to the locals.
    On this journey we have seen overcast skies, sleet, rain and brilliant sunshine. We also had an unfortunate incident that when we left the highest point a passenger was left behind. A bus took him to a town further down the line where the train waited delaying our arrival in to Cusco.
    The scenery is beautiful as we near Cusco. Much greener and more fertile and we pass miles of fields with various crops growing and on the evidence of what we could see little mechanical assistance for the people working in the fields.
    We arrived in to Cusco at 7:45, throughout the journey the train went at a very sedate pace and we were pleased to see our new guide Alejandro waiting at the station to take us on to our hotel.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Cusco
    CuscoInca stoneworkCusco market, you will get a few sausages out of these!An Inca wallSacred ValleyView of the Andes247 steps to the top!247 steps laterViews from the hotel garden

    Cusco, Sacred Valley and the Incas.

    22 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a busy few days it is good to have some downtime this morning, Friday. First impressions of Cusco were great. To give a bit of background of the city we took the following from our guidebook.

    According to legend, in the 12th century, the first Inca (King), Manco Capac, was ordered by the ancestral sun god Inti to find the spot where he could plunge a golden rod into the ground until it disappeared. At this spot, deemed the navel of the earth, he founded Cusco, the city that would become the thriving capital of the Americas’ greatest empire.

    We wandered around the mainly cobbled streets, found the market which as ever was very interesting and sold everything. It is by far the busiest place for tourism we have visited to date. A lot of people, similar to us, arrive in Cusco to go on to Machu Picchu.

    We sat in upstairs cafe on the square and had a front seat view of a parade with dancers and music. These happen all the time.

    In the afternoon we joined a small party for a tour of the city and the mountains surrounding it. Firstly, we visited the Cathedral, the construction of which started in 1559 and took almost a century to build. There was an abundance of gold and silver which are mined locally. The statues had ornate costumes and these are changed regularly. The local football team had sponsored one outfit.

    We then went to Qorikancha. This is renowned for some of the best examples of Inca stonework. The Inca stonework is remarkable and we have seen a number of examples of it, both in Cusco and the following day. Enormous blocks of stone form walls. These blocks are joined like Lego with no mortar to hold them together. They are built at a slight angle and despite the number of earthquakes over the centuries they have withstood all of them. Considering they were built so long ago in the 16th century it is a staggering achievement.

    We then boarded a minibus to go up into the mountains and visited Saqsaywaman, Q’Enqo, and Tambomachay. On the way up the mountain we saw their version of Christo Redentor which is called Christo Blanca and is much smaller but still impressive.

    Saqsaywaman (pronounced as Sexy Woman by tourists) was incredible. The photos don’t do it justice so it is hard to appreciate how immense the stones are.

    In the evening we had dinner at Cicciolina’s a highly rated restaurant in Cusco. Audley, our travel agent, had booked this for us with their compliments for being regular customers. The food was amazing, as always in Peru. We had a good conversation with an American couple at the next table who were from Wisconsin. As always, when talking to Americans, interesting to hear their view on Trump and American politics.

    We had an early start Saturday morning and joined a small group tour through the Sacred Valley. We saw several familiar faces from our tour the previous day. Our luggage came with us as we are staying in the Sacred Valley prior to going to Machu Picchu tomorrow.

    The Sacred Valley which runs through the Andes was held very dearly by the Incas. The fertile land alongside the river Urubamba is home to vast fields of crops, including potatoes, barley, and maize. This river, unusually flows from south to north, starting in Chile and flowing, eventually into the Amazon. We took many photos but these, once again,do not do justice to the enormity of the valley and it’s beauty. Our first stop was in Pisac where we saw the Inca terraces above the town. Incredible. The town itself is quickly becoming a Mecca for tourism. Pisac was famous for its market but has now been taken over with many stalls selling fake alpaca clothing.

    Since arriving in this area we have been more harassed by local women and young children trying to sell bits and also photos of them with baby alpacas. This is so cruel as the baby alpacas are taken from their mothers at 2 weeks old and not fed properly. In some areas the bigger alpacas and llamas are dressed up with silly hats and sunglasses. Not good.

    On leaving Pisac we headed to Ollantaytambo. We stopped about 20 minutes from town for an excellent buffet lunch in a beautiful setting. There were many other tour groups here but didn’t feel crowded.

    After lunch we headed to Ollantaytambo to see the amazing Inca ruins here. Each time they get more impressive. We walked up 247 steps of the terraces to near the top. The views were amazing. You could see examples of earlier settlements, pre Inca. The Incas didn’t like to destroy previous settlements because they could learn and develop from it, unlike the Spanish who destroyed everything when they arrived here.

    We checked into our hotel about 5 and are here for two nights prior to our train journey to Machu Picchu on Monday. We are very close to station and hear the trains hooter regularly. Fortunately, it is quiet overnight.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Preparing lunch
    Coming on nicely!A good Sunday lunchDowntown Machu PicchuWalter, our brilliant guide

    Machu Picchu

    23 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Yesterday, Sunday, was our first quiet, relaxing day. After a leisurely breakfast we wandered into Ollantaytambo which has been maintained as a typical Inca town with narrow, cobbled side streets laid out in a grid formation. It is a funny little town with not a lot to commend it. It’s main purpose these days is a stepping off point to take the train to and from Machu Picchu.
    Lunch however was a real treat. Tom, through his contacts at AudleyTravel, had organised lunch at a local restaurant located virtually on the station platform. We arrived at 12 noon and along with four others, two ladies from Montana and a couple from Calgary, initially had a tour of their garden and vegetable area. Everything here is grown organically. They also have a pen for guinea pigs which are eaten a lot in Peru and lambs.
    Lunch was a pachamanca. This involved a hole in the ground to which were added hot coals, then a pineapple, potatoes (there are 6000 different varieties in Peru), pieces of chicken, pork and lamb, more hot coals then all covered with cabbage leaves. On top of this was placed tarpaulin and soil to completely enclose the food cooking beneath. The cooking time was around 15 minutes during which time we were shown another area where they blend coffee.
    Lunch was excellent, and so much of it - a truly unique experience.
    After lunch we saw their distillery and did some tasting of the local hooch before wandering around the garden which also included a primary school.
    In the evening, not being very hungry (surprise) we wandered back into Ollantaytambo for drinks and tacos and were joined at a bar by a couple from California who were travelling around Peru very much on the hoof booking hotels and transport as they went. Interesting couple to talk to, very much Bible bashers!

    Today was an early start to catch the 7.45 train for the 90 minute journey to Machu Picchu. This was in a vistadome train. It was a spectacular journey alongside the Urubamba river. The vegetation got more lush and jungle like as we neared Machu Picchu and the Aquas Calientes station. We were met by an employee from the Sanctuary Lodge hotel who took our luggage directly to the hotel. We met up with our guide Walter who took us to the bus queue. It is a 30 minute bus journey up very winding roads to the entrance to Machu Picchu.

    We thought we were going to be in a group but had the guide to ourselves. He was excellent. There was no rush and lots of photo stops. The ruins are amazing but the surrounding countryside is more impressive with all the mountains and steep peaks. Very magical.

    After about 2 1/2 hours we arrived at the exit to the site and our hotel which is the only hotel adjacent to Machu Picchu, all the others are down in the town near the station. A welcome sight as it was very hot but not humid. We said farewell to Walter and went into the hotel to be greeted with a welcome drink and the news our room had been upgraded. Result. Our stay here is all inclusive so we had a lovely lunch and drinks prior to seeing our room. Whilst eating lunch we watched the hummingbirds flying around just outside the window. The views here are amazing and it is so lovely to relax on our terrace looking at mountains.

    It is currently pouring with rain and some thunder. There are complimentary raincoats in the room as this is normal for this area. You usually have very hot sunshine in the morning followed by rain in the afternoon. Also you have to beware of sandflies and mosquitoes.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Sanctuary LodgeOn the train back to Ollantaytambo

    Farewell Peru, it’s been great….

    23 Oktober 2023, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Our hotel, Sanctuary Lodge, is extremely comfortable and is right next to the entrance to Machu Picchu the only hotel so close. To get to Machu Picchu you have to take a thirty minute bus ride up the steep, zig zag road from the town below where there are many hotels and restaurants. The hotel is not full, it has just 31 rooms and probably only around 10 are occupied. In the bar prior to dinner we met up with another English couple from Preston. They were travelling on from here to the Galápagos Islands on a Silverseas cruise.
    This morning we were up early to go again into Machu Picchu, this time without a guide. Whilst it is high up it is in fact lower than Lake Titicaca and Cusco and thankfully we are still coping well with the altitude.
    We are booked on the 1:37 train back to Ollantaytambo where our guide Alejandro is there to meet us and drive us back to Cusco, a ninety minute drive.
    This is our final night in Peru for we are on the 8:10 flight in the morning down to Santiago.
    We have been hugely impressed with Peru. The people and food are wonderful. The sights we have seen such as Lake Titicaca, Machu Picchu, condors, great cities such as Arequipa and Cusco have all been underpinned by the magnificent Andes which we look forward to seeing more of in Chile.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Hotel Le Reve
    The flower marketThe National StadiumJane and TaniaIew from the Sky Tower with the Andes looming

    Santiago

    26 Oktober 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We were collected just after 6.00 am by Alejandro who drove us the 20 minute journey to Cusco airport. He was super efficient having printed off boarding cards and luggage labels. He helped us into the airport and checked in bags before leaving.

    The flight to Santiago was just over 3 hours and the landscape was quite extraordinary. A mix of barren, desolate and amazing over the Andes. We were warned that entry into Chile can be a bit daunting and to beware of taxi drivers but we got through immigration very quickly and were met by our driver Carolina and guide Tania. The drive to our hotel in central Santiago took about 30 minutes.

    We are staying at a small hotel named Le Reve in a quiet side street in the Providencia area of the city and it is quite delightful. Very French in style. You feel like you are staying in someone’s home. There is an attractive garden, honesty bar and snacks/tea/coffee available until midnight. We are staying here for 3 nights so this is a good opportunity to catch up on washing. The hotel prices for laundry are as usual exorbitant so we enquired of a local laundry. Albert, a young Venezuelan working at the hotel offered to walk us 3 blocks down the road to a laundry. This was a very shabby area but the man at laundry assured us that our big bag of socks, pants etc would be ready next day for just £7, and it was.

    Having had an early start this morning we had an early dinner and early to bed. There is a 2 hour time difference between Peru and Chile. We are now only 4 hours behind the UK.

    This morning, Thursday, Tania and Carolina met us in reception at 9.00am for a full day tour of Santiago. Our first impression of Chile yesterday were that it is a much wealthier country than Peru. There are many European cars which weren’t in evidence in Peru. The volume of traffic and driving style are still as bad. Tania was very keen to stress that street crime is rife in Santiago so be very careful.

    We did a lot of walking through markets, parks and various districts which are called Parillas and all have their own uniqueness. We also went on the metro which seems easy, just like London. Carolina would drop us off at various points and then Tania would call her to collect us.

    We visited the National Stadium which is hosting the Pan-American games for the first time in Chile. It is the same stadium that held the 1962 World Cup Final.

    We visited the Sky Tower which is the tallest building in South America at 62 storeys high or 980 feet. The views were incredible. It is amazing to see the snow capped Andes as the backdrop to the city.

    The past 50 years in Santiago and Chile have been challenging. In 1973 a military coup led by the airforce and General Pinochet seized power. There were tanks on the streets and over 2000 people were detained at the national stadium. Democracy was not restored until 1990. In 2010 an 8.5 earthquake hit the city.

    Overall Santiago is not a city we would rush back to. It is a capital city with a strong American influence.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    San. Cristobal shrouded in mist.
    Barillo ItaliaBarrio ItaliaOur hotel garden

    Santiago Day 2

    27 Oktober 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We had a free day today with nothing planned nor organised for us. I had though, for the past 24 hours, been feeling a bit under the weather which apparently is not unusual after spending a lot of time at high altitude and then returning to sea level. We had a meal booked at a local restaurant last night but cancelled and just had a light snack.

    This morning,,Friday,,after a leisurely breakfast we walked from our hotel to a very large park, Parque Metropolitano which is set on a hill, in the middle of the city which had been recommended to us. Today is a public holiday in Chile so there were a number of families enjoying time together. There were a lot of serious cyclists and runners going up the hill. The weather has changed today and was quite chilly. The park though was fun. To give an impression of its size there is a cable car and a funicular railway which we went on. At the highest point there is a statue of San Cristobal which seems quite popular in South American cities. The views over the city were disappointing as it was quite misty as well as cold.
    We left the park and took the metro to the Barillo Italia that we visited briefly yesterday . The metro is quite extensive throughout the city but easy to use. The Italian area was quiet due to the public holiday but we had a very good pizza lunch. There were several artisan market stalls set up so interesting to wander around.
    Santiago is an interesting city, Tania our guide from yesterday was very protective towards us ensuring we did not carry a camera but use our phones for photos. Hold on to your phone and wallet in your pocket. Despite this we never really felt under threat but obviously crime must be rife.
    Tomorrow, Saturday, we are being collected at 9am for our flight south to Punta Natales and then a three hour coach journey to Puerto Arenas, where the temperature is likely to be only a few degrees above freezing. Packing for this trip has been challenging having to cater for these temperatures and the likely 30 degrees plus to come in Rio.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    The CuernosThe TorresTo the end of the world!

    Patagonia

    29 Oktober 2023, Chile ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Well, what a contrast Santiago to Patagonia! Warm, noisy and busy to cold, quiet and at times desolate.
    Yesterday, Saturday, we were collected from our hotel in Santiago for our 11:30 flight down to Punta Arenas in the deep south of Chile, Patagonia. It was cloudy all the way so saw no land until our descent into the airport. The landscape was raw and barren. We were joined by two other couples also travelling with Audley and met by the local representative Francesca who gave us details for the next few days.
    First off we had to wait a couple of hours at the airport for a bus to take us to Puerto Natales where we are staying. This gave us an opportunity to grab something to eat. We then stood outside for a short while waiting for the bus. It was cold! Apparently just two days ago they had 125kph winds here.
    Anyhow the bus arrived OK and off we went. My word the landscape was bleak with the occasional tree virtually bent double. To cap it all before long it started to snow, with the snow coming in sideways! Very little traffic on the road and after nearly three hours travelling arrived at Puerto Natales and checked in to our hotel. The hotel is a bit quirky, quite modern and good fun. Had a couple of drinks and a good meal in the hotel restaurant before stepping outside for a breath of air. It was bitter so within ten minutes we were back inside for coffee and brandy.
    This morning we were to be collected between 7 and 7:30 for a day long tour of the Lakes and Mountains, Torres del Paine National Park and what a glorious day. We woke up to clear blue skies but obviously still cold so we were dressed appropriately with plenty of layers.
    Fabulous day with a number of stopping off points to either take photos or go for a walk into the countryside. We were so lucky to see the famous Cuernos (horns) and Torres (towers). They are often obscured by cloud and this did happen but then they would appear. We also saw various sheep and cattle plus condors and eagles. Now we are experienced condor watchers we can recognise them as they do not flap their wings, they just glide.
    The colour of the lakes with the snow capped mountains behind was magical and had a memorable stop seeing a waterfall. Photos cannot do justice to what we have seen today.
    We arrived back at our hotel about 5 and were amazed to see a load of people in the water kayaking and swimming. Madness.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Lamb being barbecued at the parilla
    At the Argentine borderOur bus to El CalafateView from the coach window.

    Last days in Chile

    31 Oktober 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 0 °C

    Our second day in Puerto Natales was a free day for us to explore the town and surrounding area. The weather first thing was overcast and the mountains that we had seen so clearly yesterday were nowhere.to be seen. After a leisurely breakfast we donned our coats, hats, gloves and scarves and stepped outside. To coin a phrase, “it’s chilly in Chile “!.
    Had a walk along the waterfront stopping for a hot chocolate and then into the town and realising there was more to Puerto Natales than we had originally thought. Many shops were geared up for the outdoor life but there were a number of hotels and restaurants. As we have seen in other parts of South America there are quite a lot of empty shops and bars , a result of the pandemic..
    As the morning went on the cloud lifted and the mountains reappeared so after lunch we walked the other way along the waterfront and the views across the water were glorious. Patagonia really is quite spectacular!
    Dinner for the last two evenings here have been at a parilla, a barbecue restaurant where inside the restaurant a whole lamb is being barbecued. The first night we had the lamb which was excellent, the best lamb we have tasted in a long time. We went again the following night and had ribeye steaks which were huge and again quite excellent.
    We were up early this morning, Tuesday to catch the 7am bus to El Calafate in Argentina about a five hour drive. The road between the Chilean checkpoint and the Argentinian one was a dirt track and this continued for a fair distance until we rejoined a proper road. There was very little traffic. The immediate scenery from the bus and side of the road was somewhat bland but in the distance on both sides were the snow capped mountains and there was a clear blue sky - magnificent!
    Arrived in El Calafate around midday where we were met and taken to our hotel. This is our eleventh hotel in three weeks, just two to go!    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Unlike the Titanic we avoded the iceberg!Our guide. He was great!With Sue and Hubert, fellow travellers.

    Glacier Perito Moreno

    1 November 2023, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    El Calafate is a pleasant, small town on the banks of Lake Argentino and has grown a lot in recent years due to its relative close proximity to the glacier., Perito Moreno.
    This afternoon, Tuesday, we had a good walk around the town and the lake in beautiful sunshine and it is a lot warmer than Puerto Natales was. We continue to be so lucky with the weather.
    Currency in Argentina is already proving to be a challenge. In recent years they have experienced raging inflation and before we left UK we were unable to secure any Argentinian pesos and advised to take US dollars. Some fellow travellers told us of a place (not a bank) where we could change dollars into pesos. This turned out to be a small office above a restaurant, all very cloak and dagger. We received 675,000 pesos to 90 dollars; it’s like Monopoly money. We are though finding it difficult relating pesos to dollars to pounds!
    Had a very good meal last night. Having had a lot of meat in recent days settled on salmon.
    We were collected this morning at 9am for our tour to the glacier. There were about a dozen of us. The hour long drive was excellent driving by the lake with snow capped mountains in the distance. The Andes continue to be a real highlight.
    We arrived at the glacier and what a sight it is. Spectacular doesn’t do it justice, neither do photos. We spent a couple of hours admiring it from different levels . From time to time you hear what sounds like thunder as pieces break off and crash into the water.
    In the afternoon we took a one hour boat trip to get even closer to the glacier. The trip took us past some small icebergs which demonstrate how cold the water obviously is. This glacier is one of about ten in Patagonia and is the one that is most accessible. Truly amazing.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Ready to tango
    Typical Buenos AiresBuenos Aires, similar to Paris perhaps?ObeliskEva PeronCasa Rosada, the Pink PalaceIdeal Cafe

    Buenos Aires

    2 November 2023, Argentina ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We were collected promptly at 7am yesterday morning for our flight north from El Calafate to Buenos Aires. It was a lovely drive out to the airport and the signs were that the weather was set fair, for here at least. Small, but modern airport and we set off on time for the three hour flight.
    Shortly after take off the cloud cover thickened and we saw nothing until close to BA where the rain was torrential. This will be a first for us on this trip. We were met at the airport by the local guide Julieta who remarkably had been our guide ten years ago on our previous visit to BA. Our hotel is in the Palermo district of the city and took about twenty minutes to get there through the pouring rain!
    Very comfortable hotel with only about twenty rooms. First of all we had to find our waterproof clothes and go out to lunch. The rest of the afternoon was spent in the hotel for the rain never stopped.
    In the evening we had booked a dinner and tango evening which was excellent. We were driven to the other side of the city for dinner at 9:15 followed by a tango show at 10:30. Dinner was good, massive steaks as is so often the case in Argentina. The show chronicled the evolution of tango through the ages. There was a four piece band, piano, double bass, accordion and violin. We had seats on the front row so had an excellent view of the dancing and singing. The dancing was really good, dare I say it, better than Strictly!. The show finished shortly before midnight and we were met outside to return to our hotel.
    We woke up this morning and were thankful that the rain had stopped. It was overcast but dry and about 16c.
    We set off from the hotel to walk into the city centre. BA is a fascinating city. The architecture, boulevards and trees are not unlike Paris. It is a very busy and vibrant city. After about an hour’s walk we arrived in 9 Julio Avenue which is reputedly the widest boulevard in the world. In its centre there is a large obelisk and at the far end a skyscraper with a huge image of Eva Peron on it. Allegedly, last December, in celebration of Argentina winning the World Cup there were 5 million people in this boulevard.
    From here we continued to walk down to Plaza de Mayo where the Pink Palace (Casa Rosada) home to the President is, together with the Cathedral, whose past Cardinal is the current Pope Francis.
    Our guide had recommended a good coffee house called Ideal and it certainly was. It is reminiscent of Betty’s tearooms in Yorkshire. We had an excellent lunch here - empanadas and cake.
    We then got a taxi back to Palermo and our hotel. It started to drizzle a bit so we stayed inside for a while until it cleared. We then went out again to explore Palermo which is very upmarket with boutiques, shops and restaurants.
    BA like other South American cities does have its share of poverty and we have seen a number of instances around the city which is sad and quite upsetting.
    We have another early start tomorrow as we leave BA to fly to Rio and Copacana Beach. Caipirinhas here we come.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Copacabana from our hotel rooftop
    CopacabanaFavelaCpacabana at nightExcited Boca fans!

    Football in South America

    5 November 2023, Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Early start Saturday morning to catch 9 am flight to Rio. It took about 40 minutes to reach smart new terminal which only opened in April this year. Our flight was on time but at the boarding gate we were joined by scores of travelling Boca Juniors fans.
    Today is the Libertadores final. The biggest club match in South America - their equivalent of the Champions League Final. The match is between Boca Juniors of Buenos Aires and Fluminense of Rio and is being played at the iconic Maracana stadium. There was a lot of chanting both before and on the flight from the Boca fans - a sea of blue and yellow, the colours of Boca Juniors.
    On arrival in Rio we were met by our guide, Rayol, an excitable gentleman who took us to our hotel on Copacabana beach. The weather today has been a bit overcast but still very warm.
    Copacabana is a huge, huge beach and we walked along the promenade behind the beach which was very busy with competing football supporters. The beach is marvellous with the waves crashing in and many hundreds either sunbathing or swimming.
    In the evening for the match we ventured out to a bar near our hotel which was crowded with supporters from both clubs. We were sitting with 2 men from BA who had tickets for match but the police refused them entry. They were not happy.
    We enjoyed watching the match with them, though they quickly left at the end as Boca lost. It was a good evening for us as neutrals to see the emotional South Americans reacting to football. A typical South American match, two sendings off, VAR controversy and plenty of play acting! Not a very high standard of football though.    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara

    Rio de Janeiro

    5 November 2023, Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Rio is a wonderful city, so full of life and vibrancy. Being on the coast gives it a big advantage and as well as Copacabana there are many other glorious sandy beaches.
    After a leisurely breakfast Rayol collected us and our first stop today is Christo Redentor, Christ the Redeemer, sitting proudly up high overlooking the city. There are three ways of seeing him up close. You can hike, you can drive halfway and then a minibus or take the train - we took the train. When we were here ten years ago it was busy but it was even busier than we remember. The views though are marvellous looking across the city on a day like today, clear and sunny. The statue is really impressive and stands about thirty metres high.
    We left here to see another famous Rio landmark, Sugarloaf Mountain. To reach the summit involves taking two cable car rides but it is certainly worthwhile. At the top there are not only excellent viewpoints but also a number of shops and cafes. We were lucky today for recently there have been days when it has been too windy for the cable car to operate.
    From here we moved on to see another well known Rio landmark. Some years ago a Chilean named Selaron moved to Rio and saw some steep steps close to his home. He felt they needed livening up so started to cover them with bright tiles. Soon other people started to give him other tiles and before long people from around the world were sending him tiles. It was a remarkable sight, but so very busy with tourists.
    Returned to our hotel for lunch then afterwards for a swim on Copacabana. The beach was packed despite its enormous size and the waves were crashing in. You cannot swim due to the ferocity of the waves, you can barely stand up. Quite exhilarating but a little dangerous if you are not careful.
    Late afternoon we took a walk out towards the next beach along and did people watching. Guess it’s a lot busier tonight being Sunday. Fun to watch the people though, most men seem to wear football shirts whilst the girls as little as possible!!    Baca lagi

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  • Bob ScottSouth America 2023Pengembara
    Thiago our boat man
    Thiago's boatGarota cafeGirl from Ipanema lyricsView from the boatFinal shot of Copacabana

    Ipanema

    7 November 2023, Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Rio is a fascinating city, a real party city. It is divided into a number of neighbourhoods Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, Flamenco, Botafago to name but a few. It is not the cleanest city we have ever visited for it is not unusual to see cockroaches scurrying across the pavement. Early evening the locals put out their bags of rubbish to be collected overnight but this attracts the poorer people to scavenge through them, a sad sight. Contrary to the city the beaches are very clean. There is no plastic, no seaweed so it is a pleasure to walk along the beach or go in the water. Also you see people with large plastic bags collecting tin cans in order to keep the beach tidy.
    Yesterday Monday, we went on a two hour boat trip with our boat man, Thiago. He was a great guy and took us all round the bay and inlets. It was too rough to go too far into the open sea. It really is a huge sprawling city.
    For lunch we went to Ipanema which is the next neighbourhood along from Copacabana. We went to the Garota de Ipanema bar where the song Girl from Ipanema was written. The background to the song is that two friends Tom Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes were admiring a 17 year old girl everyday as she went to the beach at Ipanema and they sat in this bar and wrote the song.
    In the evening we returned to Ipanema for dinner at a restaurant we had read good reviews about, PICI and it was excellent.
    So later today we fly home after a truly memorable four weeks where we have seen so much and done so much. South America sometimes gets a bad press - it’s dangerous, it’s corrupt, it’s dirty. We found it to be welcoming, dramatic, lovely people and inexpensive.    Baca lagi

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    Tamat perjalanan
    8 November 2023
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