• Marilyn Kennedy

Marilyn’s Lithuanian Adventure

After years of planning, I am finally traveling to Lithuania, home to many of my ancestors. I am joined by Scott Slykas and Joanne Zrenda Moore. This is the first time since my Grandfather left Lithuania in 1913 that anyone in his family has visited. Read more
  • Ventė Cape

    August 10, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Ventė Cape, sometimes referred to as Ventė Horn or Ventė Peninsula, is a headland in the Nemunas Delta, in the Šilutė district, Lithuania.

    The Cape, being in the former Memel Territory, was part of Germany until 1919. The Teutonic Knights erected a castle here, called Windenburg, but it no longer exists. There is an 11-meter-high lighthouse, built in 1863 during the Prussian period, though it is not currently in use.Read more

  • Klaipėda

    August 10, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Klaipėda is a city in Lithuania on the Baltic Sea coast. The capital of the county of the same name, it is the third largest city and the only major seaport in Lithuania.

    The city has a complex recorded history, partially due to the combined regional importance of the usually ice-free Port of Klaipėda at the mouth of the river Akmena-Danë.

    Klaipėda's Old Town is notable among other towns in Lithuania for its abundance of German and Scandinavian architecture. Klaipėda's Old Town is unique with its timber-framed architectural style and the planned street structure, which is uncharacteristic of any other old town in Lithuania. Its streets are geometrically configured very correctly, and the angle of intersection is always straight.

    One of the most popular places in Klaipėda's old town is The Theatre Square. An important focus of Theatre Square is the Taravos Anikė sculpture depicting a youthful barefoot girl. The sculpture was erected in the memory of the poet Simonas Dachas and perpetuates one of the poet's described heroes.

    Built in Finland in 1948, the Meridianas sailed the seas for twenty years as a training sailing ship and served to educate future sailors and captains. Her voyages have taken her to the shores of West Africa, the Azores, and the many ports of Western Europe. In 1968, the ship was decommissioned, yet its story did not end at that point but took a new turn, which led to the Meridianas becoming an integral part of the Klaipėda cityscape and a symbol of the port city. In 1971, the sailing ship was moored at the quay of the River Dangė and the legendary restaurant was opened there. Reconstructed in 2012-2014, Meridianas continues a 50-year tradition and invites you on a never-ending cruise of tastes and flavors.
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  • Shopping Mall in Klaipėda

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We visited a shopping mall briefly in Klaipėda because Joanne left her tennis shoes in Kaunas. This day was the day that she was scheduled to take a lengthy bike ride and she did not want to attempt it in sandals.

    Took these photos to show that Lithuania is just like home in many ways.
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  • Cormorants

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    One of Europe's largest colonies of cormorants is amassed in the forest 1km south of Juodkrantė. Wooden steps lead from the road to a viewing platform where the panorama of thousands of nests amid pine trees – not to mention the noise of the 6500-strong colony – is astonishing. Cormorants arrive in early February to pick and rebuild their nests. By May chicks are screaming for food.

    Cormorants are regarded as invaders that take over herons' nests. Fishers blame the cormorants in particular for reduced catches, but the species is protected.
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  • Parnidis Dune and Sundial – Calendar

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    With a height of 52 m, the Parnidis dune is one of the tallest in the whole Curonian Spit and the tallest in the Nida city region. It is guessed that the name “Parnidis” came from the Lithuanian phrase “perėjusi per Nidą” (walked through Nida) as the dune with the help of the wind had covered the old Nida settlements a few times.

    In the year 1995 on the top of the Parnidis dune a sundial – calendar was built. Its crown jewel – the obelisk is 12 m tall with 2 m beneath the ground, with a weight of 200 tons it was transported from Vyborg pits in Russia. It is decorated with symbols copied from the 17th-century old wooden rune calendar.

    The whole area is covered with granite plates at 16 different heights marking 12 months and 4 solstice and equinox lines. Curonian Spit is the only suitable place for such a complex construction, actually, the conditions here are perfect – it is the only place in Lithuania where the sun rises and sets into the water which opens the absolute mathematical horizon.
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  • Nida, Lithuania

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Nida is a resort town in Lithuania. Located on the Curonian Spit between the Curonian Lagoon and the Baltic Sea, it is the westernmost point of Lithuania and the Baltic states, close to the border with the Russian Kaliningrad Oblast exclave.

    Nida is the location of a fisherman's ethnographic homestead built in 1927 and was restored in 1973 as a symbol of the old way of life of the local fishermen.

    Since ancient times, the fishermen of the Curonian Lagoon had unique sailing boats crafted to handle the waves of the Curonian Lagoon. These vessels were buoyant, shallow draught boats constructed of oak boards and called Kurenai, bradinine, or venterine, depending on the types of nets they used.

    From a distance, all these boats looked alike. As each village controlled its own fishing areas, a system of identification through uniquely shaped weathercocks at the top of each mast was developed. The earliest record of this system dates from 1844, but the folk art seems much older.

    Each weathercock had to be of a minimum size and decorated in colors and with shapes that would clearly denote the village from which it had come. The creation of weathercocks developed into a folk art form with symbols from the lives of the fishermen and their villages.
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  • Thomas Mann Memorial Museum

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Captivated by the romantic landscape, Thomas Mann, a German writer and winner of the Nobel Prize, built a summer house on the Curonian Spit. It took just a few days in the summer of 1929 for him to be struck by the uniqueness and beauty of the natural surroundings. So, the writer (1875-1955) had a summer house built in the Lithuanian fishing village of Nida. But Mann and his family were able to spend only three summers in their holiday home on the Baltic Sea. The Nazis' seizure of power forced them into exile.

    The museum now houses old photos, memoirs, books, and documents mirroring the poet’s work.
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  • Baltic Sea Beach near Nida

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The Baltic Sea is within easy reach through a beautiful forest. You can either drive there on the main road, cycle, or walk through the woods.

    Lithuanians love and respect their nearly 100 km stretch of golden sandy coast, therefore the wide beaches are kept clean at all times by the locals. Notice that there are no hotels or restaurants on the beach. They are not allowed. The beach is kept in its natural state.Read more

  • The Hill of Witches Part 1

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The Hill of Witches is a fun outdoors sculpture park located in Juodkrante. A gigantic sign by the main road will lead you into a wondrous world of witches and devils hiding in the woods.

    There are around 80 wooden sculptures in the park some of them dating back to 1979. The carvings are based on pagan traditions and the Midsummer Night’s Eve festivities on the hill, still widely celebrated in Lithuania.

    Each year on June 24, people across Lithuania dance, sing, and bring in the midsummer with the older folk traditions of the country. After Christianity came to Lithuania, the celebration was renamed Saint Jonas’ Festival, but many of the practices still have pagan roots, as is echoed by the fantastic world of the Hill of Witches sculptures.
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  • The Hill of Witches Part 2

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Assembled from all over Lithuania in 1979, the authors of sculptures of the Hill of Witches, wood carvers and blacksmiths, were inspired by the beauty of the landscape and mystical atmosphere of the parabolic dune slopes overgrown with centenary pine and fir trees that gave an impetus to embody the characters of fairy tales and legends in wood.Read more

  • Dinner in Klaipėda with Family

    August 11, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    We met Joanne and Scott's Lithuanian family members for dinner at a restaurant in Klaipėda. They were so warm and welcoming to us.

    Standing L to R: Marilyn, Scott, Linas, Aurelija, and Raimonda.
    Seated L to R: Birutė, Joanne, Aldona, and Danguolė.

    Birutė is Aurelija's mother. Aldona and Danguolė are Birutė's sisters.
    Danguolė is Raimonda's mother. Linas is Raimonda's husband.

    They are related to Scott and Joanne through my Aunt Lorraine's side of the family. Even though I was not related to these beautiful people, they treated me as if I were. We had a wonderful time!
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  • Palanga Amber Museum

    August 12, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The Palanga Amber Museum, near the Baltic Sea in Palanga, Lithuania, is housed in the restored 19th-century Tiškevičiai Palace and is surrounded by the Palanga Botanical Garden. The museum's collection of amber comprises about 28,000 pieces, of which about 15,000 contain inclusions of insects, spiders, or plants. About 4,500 pieces of amber are exhibited; many of these are items of artwork and jewelry.Read more

  • Birutė Hill

    August 12, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    One of the most beautiful locations in Palanga is Birutė Park. Here, the centuries-old sacred Birutė pine forest still thrives in the territory of the former Tiškevičiai Manor. It surrounds the legendary Birute Hill.Read more

  • Palanga Beach

    August 12, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Palanga Beach is a stretch of about 10km of sandy beach backed up by small dune coves and pine trees. The water in the Baltic Sea is clean and the temperature of the water is comfortable to swim in.

    The Baltic Sea's salinity is much lower than that of ocean water, as a result of abundant freshwater runoff from the surrounding land (rivers, streams, and alike), combined with the shallowness of the sea itself. The Baltic Sea is only 177 feet deep on average, which makes it a very shallow sea. For example, the average depth of the Mediterranean Sea is around 5000 feet, while the great oceans average 12000 feet.
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  • Dinner at Home of Darius and Aurelija

    August 12, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ 🌙 70 °F

    We had a wonderful dinner. When we first sat down the table was filled with two lettuce salads, small garlic toasts topped with cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, skewers of smoked shrimp, cheese cubes, fruit, and more. There was so much food that I thought it was dinner. Then, Darius, Linas, and Scott went outside to tend the big green egg grill. A short time later, Darius brought in two perfectly cooked slabs of ribs. Aurelija added roasted baby potatoes and a very large bowl of roasted vegetables. It was all so delicious!! The men had bourbon to drink. I even tried one glass. However, my favorite was the alcohol-free wine that Aurelija offered to me. It was a Lithuanian alcohol-free wine and it was really good!

    The baby in the last two photos is 6-month-old Ignė who is 8-year-old Kamilė's sister.
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  • A Park in Klaipėda

    August 12, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    After dinner on the way back to our hotel in Klaipėda, Aurelija stopped at a park that had dancing waters. In the first picture where Joanne and I are walking, the dancing waters appear purple in the distance. The park was beautiful at night and the dancing water display was well attended.

    This was the last evening that Joanne was with us on our adventure. She chose to leave the tour and spend time with her newly found family members.
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  • Hill of Crosses

    August 13, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Hill of Crosses is a site of pilgrimage about 7.5 miles north of the city of Šiauliai, in northern Lithuania. The precise origin of the practice of leaving crosses on the hill is uncertain, but it is believed that the first crosses were placed on the former Jurgaičiai or Domantai hill fort after the 1831 Uprising. Over the generations, not only crosses and crucifixes, but statues of the Virgin Mary, carvings of Lithuanian patriots, and thousands of tiny effigies and rosaries have been brought here by pilgrims.

    On September 7, 1993, Pope John Paul II visited the Hill of Crosses, declaring it a place for hope, peace, love, and sacrifice. He said Mass in the open outside chapel.

    Scott and I brought crosses representing our families. I wrote the surnames of the Slykas, Klonis, Zibutis, and Perkauskaus families on my cross. Scott wrote the first names of many of his family members. We planted the crosses part way up the main hill and to the right side. I hope that we will return someday to find them again.

    This was also the day our "official" tour ended. Our guide, Gintas, returned us to the Artis Hotel in Vilnius. We both told Gintas how much we would miss him. He was a terrific guide!
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  • A Free Morning in Vilnius

    August 14, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Scott and I had a free morning in Vilnius before our driver, Igor would take us to Kaunas to begin our "family history" part of the trip.

    The plan originally was to meet our distant Slykas-related cousin Eglė. Unfortunately, she was not available to meet with us, so Scott and I revisited a few sites in Vilnius.

    First, we had breakfast at the hotel which was fantastic!! As you can see from the photos, the breakfast bar went down the middle of a very large room, Both sides of the bar were filled with food - 3 kinds of meat, 3 kinds of fish, potatoes, pancakes, blinis stuffed with bananas, 6 different kinds of fruit, hot and cold cereals, numerous fresh loaves of bread and rolls, 4 kinds of fruit preserves, sour cream, 3 kinds of juices, and a coffee bar which served coffee, tea, hot chocolate, espresso, and cappuccino.

    Next, we went to Sunday Mass at the cathedral.

    Scott and I then wandered the streets of Vilnius. We looked down a random arch into a courtyard that had a jewelry shop. As we walked we also saw a wedding party. In fact, all during our trip, we saw a number of brides and grooms on their special days.

    We then enjoyed some Kugelis for lunch. Our driver picked us up in the early afternoon and drove us to Kaunas.
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  • Kaunas Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul

    August 14, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Cathedral Basilica of apostles St. Peter and St. Paul of Kaunas (known then as only the Kaunas parish church) is mentioned for the first time in historical sources in 1413. April 22 in the letter by which Bishop Mikalojus of Vilnius grants her the privilege of indulgences. It is believed that it was built between 1408 and 1413. The presumed founder is Grand Duke Vytautas of Lithuania. At that time, this sanctuary was probably the only parish church in Kaunas and belonged to the Vilnius diocese.

    The present-day shape of the building results from a renovation in 1800. The church was promoted to cathedral status by Pope Leo XIII in 1895. It received the Basilica title in 1926 when the Diocese of Samogitia was reorganized into the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Kaunas by Pope Pius XI. Pope Francis visited the cathedral on 23. September 2018.
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  • Kaltinėnai

    August 15, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Scott and I started the "family history" portion of our trip to Lithuania by meeting with Vincas Bundza, the man I hired to research the Slykas family in Lithuania. We started in Kaunas which is where Vincas lives. Our driver, Igor, took us to the first stop in Kaltinėnai. This is where Scott's relatives from his Grandmother Lorraine's side of the family lived.

    Kaltinėnai is a small town in the west of Lithuania, located in the Šilalė district municipality, Tauragė County. Kaltinėnai has around 728 inhabitants.

    Since Vytautas the Great built the first wooden church in 1416, there have been about six wooden churches in Kaltinėnai. Some of these churches burned down and others simply collapsed. The current church, known as the church of St. John the Baptist, was completed in 1995.

    Unfortunately, the church was locked so we were not able to photograph the interior. We also did not visit the graveyard because it was so large that it would have been impossible to locate a particular grave in a short time.
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  • Pavandenė - St. Anne's Church

    August 15, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Pavandenė is a town in Telšiai County, Lithuania. The settlement dates back to the 14th century. It is known from 1596 that there was a manor in Pavanden.

    The first church in Pavandenė was built in the early 17th c. There is no data on what the old church used to look like, but it is believed that it changed little up until the early 19th c., when, already slightly damaged, it was reconstructed. The church was reconstructed from the old church walls up to its windows, which means that the plan of the church did not change. The reconstruction was completed in 1802 and was dedicated to St Anne. Other major renovation works took place in 1912-1913 when the building acquired the looks that we can see today.

    This is the church at which my Great-Grandfather Slykas played the organ and rang the church bells. It is likely that this was the last church where my Grandfather Slykas attended Mass before he left Lithuania.
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  • St. Anne's Church Cemetery in Pavandenė

    August 15, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    When we first arrived at St. Anne's Church in Pavandenė, the church was locked. While we waited for someone that Vincas contacted to unlock the church for us, we visited the adjacent cemetery to look for family grave sites. Unfortunately, we only found one - the grave of Vytautas Rekasius (1928 - 1942). He was the son of my Grandfather Slykas' sister. Vytautas was also the twin brother of Antanas Rekasius, the composer who once visited our family in Illinois.

    The photograph of the wooden cross may show why we were unable to find additional family markers. If our family was poor, they may have only had wooden markers that would have deteriorated over time. In addition, we saw many stone markers that were worn with age. If the family did have stone markers, they may still be there but unable to be read.
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  • Inside St. Anne's Church in Pavandenė

    August 15, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Our guide Vincas contacted a woman living in a nearby village and asked her to unlock the church for us. About 20 minutes later, a cheerful elderly lady named Anastacija arrived on her bicycle. She did not speak a word of English but Vincas helped with communication. When I told her the reason Scott and I were there, she started hugging and kissing us both as if we were her long-lost relatives. She told us that the day we visited was also her 80th birthday and that there would be a party later in the day and she planned on dancing. So she started singing and dancing with me. Anastacija was delightful!

    The inside of St. Anne's Church was beautiful! Although the current building has been there for about 200 years, it has been well cared for by the parishioners.

    Anastacija turned on the organ so that Vincas could play it for us. This was the same organ that my Great-Grandfather Šlikas played in the early 1900s before he died. We were also allowed to go into the bell tower and Scott was able to ring the church bell which was the same bell that my Great-Grandfather Šlikas rang. This experience was wonderful!
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  • Holy Trinity Church in Tauragė

    August 15, 2022 in Lithuania ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Tauragė is an industrial city in Lithuania and the capital of Tauragė County. Tauragė is situated on the Jūra River, close to the border with the Kaliningrad Oblast, and not far from the Baltic Sea coast. It is a "family history" town for Scott and Joanne. First mentioned in 1507, the town has been a center of Lutheranism in Lithuania.

    Holy Trinity Church, a Catholic Church, was a significant church for the Pilipas Family (My Aunt Lorraine's Phillips Family).

    The Church of the Holy Trinity stands on a high embankment of the Jūra river. The first catholic house of prayer in Tauragė, just like the city itself, was first mentioned in 1507. The church was severely damaged during both world wars. During the years of World War I, the Russians used the belfry for intelligence, while the Germans later demolished it. After World War II the church building was rebuilt in 1955.

    The decoration of Holy Trinity Church is a stained-glass window in the form of flowers with eight petals. The bell tower of the church stands near the banks of the river Jura and stands out from the other buildings of the ancient city.

    The monument For the Victims of Stalinism, to commemorate the painful historical events, was opened in 1989. It is a composition of three wooden crosses. Two of them are broken as if symbolizing the fate of those, to whom the monument is dedicated. The monument was made by the folk artists from Tauragė.
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