The Wild Atlantic Way

May - June 2024
A 25-day adventure by Jane Read more
  • 24footprints
  • 4countries
  • 25days
  • 225photos
  • 17videos
  • 1.6kkilometers
  • Day 1

    First stop Fishguard

    May 12 in England ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Six and half hours to get down to the lovely Fishguard in Wales. Where we will stay until Tuesday when we hit the ferry to Rosslare, Ireland. First trip in the Moho across the water and with the pooch, Molly.Read more

  • Day 2

    Monday Club in Fishguard

    May 13 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Paul checked the weather today, and basically it showed it was pissing down all day. For once, they got the weather right ✅️ So off for a wet walk we all went. It would have been stupid not to shelter in a pub or two and chat to the locals 🍻 oh and we realised Paul had but the bikes on wrong and very unsafe 🫣 and spent the day trying to work it out! 43 000 YouTube tutorials later, and the instructions, he managed to still be perplexed by this simple frame 😆 Molly was a dream and even found a new friend Oz who lived in one of the local pubs, The Globe Inn.Read more

  • Day 3

    Moho and Molly get their sea legs

    May 14 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After finally sorting the bike rack out first thing this morning (well, the guy in the camper van next to us did!), Paul then split his head open on the bloody rack 🙄. We finally headed off to the ferry terminal. Molly had to stay in the van whilst we travelled 😔 3.5 hours across the Irish sea, we hit the Emerald Isle ☘️.
    A quick overnight stop at St Magaret's Campsite, 5 minutes walk from the beach. Molly had her first experience of the sea and sand. She loved it, so many new smells, sniff central 🌊🐚🐾🐕
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  • Day 4

    The Allens party in Cobh

    May 15 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We have not started the 'official' Wild Atlantic Way (WAW) yet. But we always decided we were going to do the adventure at our own pace and see where the journey takes us. We managed to bag an overnight stop on Cobh (pronounced Cove) Harbour. 🙌
    The weather was beautiful, and it coincided with a cruise ship coming into port from America. Lots of guiness and Irish music later we headed home high on life helped with a couple of guinesses (or 3 or 4 or 5.....) to an amazing room with a view for the evening ✨️
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  • Day 5

    💋 the stone & start of WAW

    May 16 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We set off from Cobh , inland to Blarney Castle, and the famous Blarney Stone. Apparently, kissing the stone endows the kisser with the gift of the gab (great eloquence or skill at flattery)!! I was happy with myself, having kissed it 3 times. Only to find Paul kissed it 5 times!!! How greedy!! We then headed to Kinsale, the 'official' start of WAW. Paul was insistent he wanted a guiness and food at the famous Bulmans Bar. So with sat nav on we trot. Only to find it a 30-minute very, very hilly walk and warm walk out of the harbour centre. Arrived hot and sweaty at 4.10 to find they stopped serving at 4pm. We are both rather hangry at this point, so a quick guiness and some photos we head back into town to find food. After a bite to eat, we headed off to Garretstown Campsite for the night🌙. Paul emerged from checking us in a good 25 minutes later, very disgruntled. (But we won't mention that 🤫), Just say the word 'hurling' to him and I am sure he will tell you himself 🤣Read more

  • Day 6

    Beautiful, busy, but bloody bushed!!

    May 17 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    First stop, Inchydoney Beach (recommended by Kimbles). Wow. Molly had a bloody good run on the beach playing chase with a new friend 🧡. Next, we had a quick stop at Skibbereen, but there was not much to report on. It was really just to show Peter (from our local pub we had been!). It does have some history with the famous Irish 'Potato Famine' Next stop Crookhaven to have a pint of the black stuff (obvs) in Ireland's most Southerly Pub!! Paul has been going on about this for weeks. Anyway, they didn't serve Guiness only Murphy's 😲. Although the mural on the pub should have been a good giveaway! 🤣 Paul managed to squeeze in a fish pie, whilst the vegan watched on 😤. Off again to Mizen Head, Ireland's most South-westerly point. It was just closing as we got there, so we had no other option but to park for the night and do a spot of whale and sea lion watching. With a warning from one of the locals to watch out for the ravens 😳 👀 . The most entertaining part of the evening was watching Paul work out how to plug 🔌 into the 12v socket. 5 minutes later, with a lot of profanities, he finally gave up!! Slammed it down and let the wife do it 😆 (we have only had the motorhome 4yrs). Apparently, it's an 'inside job', which means that's one of mine!! You stick to the 'outside jobs' Paul 👍.Read more

  • Day 7

    Molly's Cable Car Ride

    May 18 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Early(ish) start at Mizen Head. We then headed off into Bantry. I left Paul eating fish 'n' chips and a sausage for Molly, whilst I went to do some shopping in peace. It's always best to leave him fueling up and not looking over my shoulder at the cost of everything 'spending my money again'. That's been a popular quote this holiday. Anyway, in his absence, I treat myself to a Claddagh ring. I have always known them called 'Irish Wedding Ring'. They remind me of my Grandma and Grandad, who once gifted me this ring when I was a young child. The two hands on the Claddagh ring represent friendship. The heart signifies love, and the crown is a symbol of loyalty. Some say it’s bad luck to buy a Claddagh ring for yourself. I will take my chances, although technically, as Paul says, it's his money, so he bought it for me🤣.
    Belly full for Paul & Molly (the vegan starves again) , we head off to Dursey Island via the only cable car in Ireland. People still live there, but there are no shops, and only access is via the cable car 😬 Chatting to a local gentleman, who said there did used to be a school there and his wife grew up on the Island. Apparently, there were previously 95 habitants, but now only 2!. We go to the ticket office, buy the tickets. This guy comes out from the office and says, "Where are you from?" . "Blackburn," says Paul. "So am I," he says 🤨. So it turns out Paul knows his son-in-law and daughter who live in Oswaldtwistle, and yes, he did their roof a couple of months ago. A photo and phone call to said son-in-law we finally get on the cable car 🚡 with Molly.
    Then to Allihies for the night in a farmers field, right on Ballydonegan Beach. And off to find O'Neills Bar in Allihies to sink a couple of Guiness. Another one of Paul's 'must see' sites! Finished off with supper (for Paul) at the local food shack. Recommended by a shop owner in Bantry.
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  • Day 8

    Pops found his feminine voice

    May 19 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We had said we would have a dip in the Atlantic, seen as we didn't do it in Wales last year. It was a beautiful morning, so we took the plunge 🥶. You know when they say 'it takes your breath away' that's exactly what it means!! Cold is an understatement. Paul dived right in, and when he surfaced, his voice had gone up 100 decibels sounding like Pauline 🤣. So much so that Molly didn't know what to do as she thought he was being murdered and the sea was dangerous. I took the coldness with a bit more decoram (obvs) and more lady like. Molly preferred the sand and had a good dig instead. I think Pauline has put her off water for life!! Once his normal voice returned, Paul headed off to the breakfast shack for a waffle feast before heading off on our travels again. We drove through the colourful village of Eyeries (pronounced Iris) . It was a glorious day, so we stopped at Glenbig Beach (or O'Carrolls Cove). What a beautiful place with a pub on the beach. We had half a guiness, it would be rude not to. It was swarming with people, and we got chatting with an Australian lady touring the United Kingdom for 6 weeks. I'd like to say she came over chatting because we looked friendly and approachable, but no, it was Molly. She missed her dogs at home and wanted a stroke. Talking about strokes (said in jest!). The next planned stop was Derrynane Beach. I must say that prior to heading there, we have had numerous conversations on how Google Maps directions are not always appropriate for a 7-foot Motorhome 🤨 and should we download an alternative app, so as not to get stuck on single path roads!! Hence, to say we it was decided against (by Paul). So we follow the directions 3km on a single track road with very few passing places and Paul voicing all the different scenarios that could potentially happen. We get to a 'T' junction......🤔. Beach signposted one way (on a tiny track), or we could go the opposite way on a slightly wider road. I suggest the wider road, whilst Paul is deciding, a car drives past heading towards the beach. "Fuck it" he says, "that car has made my mind up" . We had not gone 100 metres and carnage broke out. Paul had a meltdown, and I didn't dare say,'I told you so' (at that point anyway, although I did tell him later). It was everybody else's fault for using the same road as him and wanting to turn when he was trying to reverse! 😚
    Enough said, we headed off to Ballinskelligs Beach for a quick stop and then to Kerry Cliffs, 1000 feet above the water. With a quick stop at Skelligs Chocolate 🍫 on the way (on my to-do-list). Yes, the chocolate shop was closed!
    We had run out of time, so we decided to camp in the field on Cliffs of Kerry and see them the following morning. As luck would have it, we had exclusive views of the once all the visitors had disappeared and the place was shut for the night. A couple of drinks later, we headed up to the Cliffs to watch the sunset 🌇 Feeling grateful and very happy 🙏
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  • Day 9

    Portmagee & Skellig Islands Experience

    May 20 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We always have to do a boat trip, so we opted for the two islands, Little Skellig and Skellig Michael. Skellig Michael was made famous due to its appearance in Star Wars ( I've never seen it myself, not my cup of tea). It also has an ancient monastery where some monks were sent there as punishment, whilst others chose to live there. Little Skellig is closed to the public, but home huge colony of birds (about 30 000) of gannets and puffins.
    We thought it was time for a bit of a break and headed off to Inch Strand Campsite for TWO nights. Paul said it was a good site with lots of amenities, the first one I hadn't checked out before booking (big mistake🫣). We pulled into a field. The mens showers were outside, so I wasn't too fussed about that 😅. The shower was 1 euro for 3 minutes, which took 90 seconds to warm up, leaving the remaining 90 seconds for the quickest wash ever 🚿🧼. On a positive note, Kitty's food shack was a stones throw away and served the most delicious vegan burger 🍔 (I wasn't watching Paul eat for once!). The sun was shining, so we got the chairs and table out for the first time on the trip and a couple of drinkies 🍻. I even set the TV and managed to get reception, so I started watching Kin 👌. Ironically set in Dublin, Ireland 🇮🇪
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  • Day 10

    Drinking in Dingle (no, not Burnley 🤣)

    May 21 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We had a day to kill at Inch Beach, Campsite. So what better way to spend the day in Dingle. It was on our 'must see' list anyway. So, instead of driving through and stopping off for a couple of hours, we decided to spend the day drinking and shopping 🛍 (or at least I did). The only option to get to Dingle was on the bus, so bus w*****s it was. I checked the bus times, every 4 hours!!! To which Paul reminded me 43 million times we needed to catch the 10.43, or we were ******. And crossed our fingers 🤞 that they let dogs on the bus. The bus arrived bang on time. The bus driver had only been working a couple of weeks, so he didn't know if dogs were allowed on the bus, but let us on anyway (phew!). Our first stop in Dingle was Long Johns on the harbour front for some brunch. A lovely vegan salad 🥗 for me and fish 'n' chips for Paul , sneaking sime of his fish to Molly under the table. Only in Ireland can you go to the local hardware shop and get a pint. We bought some Bungees we needed (for the bikes) and two pints of guiness 🤔. I left Paul at this point to do a bit of shopping. I needed to stock up on a few essentials, and they had a Supervalu shop in Dingle (this is my new favourite food shop). Got myself some wine (the first time I have stocked up, and I only brought two bottles with me). The last bus back to Inch was at 4.15, so I headed off to Dick Macs (which was also a cobblers shop) pub to meet Paul. In I walked, searching for Paul. One of the bar staff said, "Can I help you?"I'm am looking for my husband." Some guy sat at the bar says "is he with Molly the dog?" Erm, yes, that's him 😳.
    We got on the last bus, it was the same driver as earlier in the day. He says, "I checked if dogs are allowed on the bus, and they are not" 😮. Pause.... but you are OK to travel back 🙏.
    Had Kitty's again for dinner, falafel wrap this time 😋 and settled in for another round of Kin. Only disturbed by Paul's very, very loud drinking snores 💤😫💤😫💤😫
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