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Walking in Europe 2023
  • Boxer

Walking in Europe 2023

West Highland Way, Paris, the Danube, Switzerland and the Dolomites of the northern Italy and south Tyrol Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    25. juni 2023
    BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Family photo, may have been since Sun Valley in '06 since we had a picture of just the four of us
    This is the family now...sans the 'littles' and WavesMimi and Boxer at PDX departureWaverly...aka Waves saying good bye...miss you Boxer

    Walking my way

    25. juni 2023, Forente stater ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Day one, PDX to Amsterdam to Manchester UK to Glasgow Scotland. Great send off will be missing the littles, Waves and Mimi. Giving up those for my PCT section hiking companion Joe Hoppe. West Highland Way or bust. We celebrated both Joe's and Boxer's birthday at Stave 'n Stone winery on the June 24th without the 'littles' before heading to Blue Ridge Ranch for a bon voyage barbecue.
    Mimi drove Boxer to the airport for the first leg of this European excursion with an emphasis on walking/hiking. Train travel will be an integral part, as well. It did not take long for Boxer to cross paths with a familial person...Linda Soulanet, a flight attendant on Delta for the Amsterdam leg.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Lancaster, England my first rail transfer was successful
    downtown Glasgow

    Rebooked

    26. juni 2023, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    After a somewhat rocky start from PDX when the plane experienced mechanical issues, I arrived in Amsterdam (two hours late) with a rebooked connecting flight to Manchester, England. The challenges of traveling.
    A three hour train trip to Glasgow, Scotland and a rendezvous with Joe Hoppe was in front of me...but not before going through customs where I was asked where it was headed, "West Highland Way in Scotland, I replied," to which the customs agent said, "oh, I'm sorry." to which I queried, "because the of the walk or because it is Scotland?" He answered, "both with a smile."
    After arriving at Glasgow Central rail station hours behind schedule it took Boxer nearly an hour to find the Premier Inn he had booked, with a phone that was nearly out of battery.
    After checking in Joe and I found the Hootenanny Pub...Finished off a double burger with chips and washed it down with a beer to call it an eventful and successful day.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Originally the official start of the West Highland Way the railway station in MilngavieBear's den....aka Bearsden

    Christening a street in Glasgow

    27. juni 2023, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    The day before starting the West Highland Way kicked off with a bottle of fine Bordeaux falling from a sleeve in my travel pack on the walk to the train station on a busy street in Glasgow. Thankfully Joe was there to help me pick up the chards...
    I felt better on the short train ride to Milngavie ( moo-guy) when the next to last stop was in Bearsden (reminded me of Bridger.) Didn’t let the rain bother me too much…very reminiscent of a late winter day at home…chilly and wet. Reminded us that the weather is going to be a challenge…
    We walked to our accommodations for the night and received a brief orientation as to what to expect tomorrow. We then retired to the bar to find other wayfarers.
    It was all Boxer could do in not starting a conversation with these other walkers..possibly because they were not communicating in English. Reminder #2 this walking holiday in Scotland is an international affair.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Our luggage was transferred daily, quite convenient
    Boxer at the granite obelisk, at the start of the WayJoe at the obeliskGlengoyne Distillery, tempted us with a wee dram of Scotland's most famous exportCottages along the Wayhaggis bon-bons appitiser (UK)Clachan Inn est 1734Braeside Inn, our B&B, Fiona was our hostess

    Familiar with a dash of peculiar

    28. juni 2023, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    The first rule of walking in Scotland or anywhere in the UK is understanding that cars are coming towards you in a different lane. And making eye contact with the driver often times has you looking at at an empty seat. Why drivers in the United Kingdom sit in the right seat and operate their vehicles in the left lane speaks volumes about their culture.
    Walked from Milngavie (moo-guy) to Dryman (dre-ma) 12 miles. The tread was a mixture of a trail in forested land ( or “wood”) if you remember your Winnie the Pooh and country roads. There was a smidgen of converted railroad bed, too.
    About 3 hours into our walk we made a detour to the Glengoyne Distillery for a looksee. Glengoyne means “valley of the wild white geese” and distillery in this case means single malt scotch.
    After the brief interlude we continued north on a converted railway bed and a country road to the Braeside Inn located in the middle of the town square of Drymen.
    We ended our day with a pint or two and dinner at the oldest licensed pub in Scotland, the Clachan Inn est 1734. If by chance you are wondering what is on our plate it is ‘haggis bon bons’, a blend of heart, liver and lungs of sheep, minced with onion and oatmeal, encased in the the stomach lining of sheep...this day it was served in a breaded encasement...go figure    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Joe with Loch Lomond in the background
    Scottish breakfast, no need for a big lunchthe transition to a forested path before opening up in grazing landmiles of hand-placed rock fencethe stone path descending from Conic Hill toward BalmahaThe afternoon path adjacent to Loch LomondThe Rowardennan Hotel, on the eastern shore of Loch Lomond est 1696from the shores of the loch looking north to Ben Lomond in backgrounddinner in the Clansman Room of the hotelhaggis appetizer

    Arduous with a dash of spicy

    29. juni 2023, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The second day on the West Highland Way began with a typical Scottish breakfast. Atypical might be a fairer description.
    We walked (and hiked) 15 miles from Drymen to Rowardennan (row-War-da-n). The tread was a stew of forested road (not all that different from what we see on the PCT), sheep trails, a magnificent stepping stone path and a footpath along Loch Lomond.
    Our walk transitioned to hike early on as we headed up Conic Hill sharing the walk with sheep corralled in only by the miles and miles of rock fence. The walk off Conic provided us with a marvel of hand place (and large) stepping stones down the steep descent to Balmaha on the shores of Loch (Lake) Lomond.
    The rest of the walk was along the shores of this beautiful loch (the largest in the UK,) until we reached the remote Rowardennan Hotel.
    Again, we called it a day on the Way with with a pint and fine dinner (in my case Steak and Ale Pie.) Joe had a side of haggis fritters with his meal.

    An aside: We were joined for a brief period, in the morning by a young man and his two black labs. As we marveled at his pace and the distance he was going to cover in the out and back from Drymen we realized that his mother was our hostess at the Clachan Inn, who was instrumental in finding us a table at the popular pub.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Path to Rowchoish Bothy (a simple shelter) like one might encounter in the Columbia River Gorge
    Buffet style continental breakfastfields of fernsfirst meeting by chance with a slug (black not brown)creek crossing as the weather was worsenedThe trail required your complete attentionEven with that it was challengingThe path became more trekker friendly heading toward InveronanDrover's Inn - Inveroran

    The gauntlet with Sriracha hot sauce

    30. juni 2023, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    A gym membership, long walks and a positive attitude did nothing to prepare us for day 3 of our walking holiday on the West Highland Way.
    14 miles walked, hiked and scrambled. The book on the WHW when describing the walk between Rowardennan and Inverarnan as “demanding even for strong walkers” and “by far” the hardest if done in its entirety. If Boxer had edited the book those words would be highlighted, bolded and a appropriate emoji added.
    The tread included drop offs in narrow chutes on damp dirt with large rocks. To be fair there were parts of the day that had us feeling like it was a stroll on trail in the Columbia River gorge….pines and moss covered rocks. We had occasion to see a mountain biker or two who took alternate routes so as to avoid having to deal with what was mentioned earlier.
    The trail included slugs (black not brown,) heather with its magenta blooms just getting ready to explode and nice views above the shores of Loch Lomond. All and all there was a sense of accomplishment and adventure when we completed the day.
    Upon arriving at the Rose Cottage we were greeted by our hosts Stephen and Sher ( Sherryn) who dryed our shoes and washed our soiled clothes.
    We capped off day with pint (and good meal) at the Drovers Inn.,,.built centuries ago and not updated since.

    Addendum: We had a nice respite at the Inversnaid Hotel around noon. We were able to dry out a bit and have a snack. Upon leaving we encountered a visual I would have never thought possible. The sign read "Invasive species removal - Rhododendrons"...on the hill above us were the skeletal remains of one of my favorite woody shrubs.
    Note: with a little research I have found that it is one species- Rhododendron ponticum that is the culprit, together with its fertility and tolerance for shade it has choked out native flora.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Hills along the Strath Fallin
    Rose Cottage Bed and Breakfast with all the trappingsAnother hearty breakfast that have not gotten stalePath north along River FallochRiver Falloch along Glen FallochGlen Falloch FallsLunched above Crianlarich for a short time before the midges arrivedRailroad bridge at the end of a steep descent from our lunch spotWildflowers similar to Columbia GorgeTyndrum Inn Pub

    Blissful with sprinkling of more bliss

    1. juli 2023, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    This day began with a basket full of laundered hiking clothes and dried shoes and backpacks. That in itself would have been nice, but a wonderful breakfast served by our hosts with all the accoutrements of a fine B&B followed.
    14 miles walked along the River Falloch and on Strath Fallin. An occasional downpour did not dampen our spirits. We gazed at the large hills and monros (peaks above 3000’) around us. The drainages were distinctive in the vibrant green grasses dotted with white sheep.
    What is readily apparent is the diversity of geography we have experienced since leaving Milngavie Wednesday last. Wooded parks and forests, rivers and streams cutting gorges in the large rock formations they flow through and the wide straths and narrower glens we walked across.
    We reached the half way point of our “walking holiday” today near Crianlarich and have found our hiking legs.
    Forgive me for including pictures of food (blog might be called ‘Eating through Scotland’.) The breakfasts are delicious and tonight I had a soup Steph would have loved …sweet potato and carrot…along with a pint and burger at the Tyndrum Inn.

    Note: a strath is considered a wide valley between hills and a glen is characterized as a narrow (deep) valley    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Boxer's Ben Franklin T...which side of the T would be the outfit today?
    Glengarry HouseRiver Lochy crossing in TyndrumMassive rock edifice above Tyndrumbridge design shows its ageMilitary road between Tyndrum village and Bridge of Orchy villageSimon who we first met on the trail from Inversnaid and InveranenBridge of Orchy Hotel in backgroundRiver Orchysmall stream in Rannoch MoorRannoch Moor (no shelter for seven miles)this weather did not last shortly after this pictureIsle of Glencoe restaurant

    Apprehension to anticipation

    2. juli 2023, England ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    As I prepared for this walking holiday in Scotland I had in mind that day 5 was going to be a long, desolate trek in the highlands. The weather conditions added a another layer to the challenge of walking 19 miles. My mind’s eye has never been so wrong. The day began as usual with a wonderful breakfast served by Andrew and Ellen our hosts at the Glengarry House in Tyndrum (tine-drum). Similar to yesterday’s walk much of the tread will be on a military road constructed in the middle of the 18th century (more than 350 years ago) and has not been upgraded since. Picture if you can cobblestones firmly embedded, but not flush in the ground they were laid upon. No scrambling over tree roots or boulders today…just an uneven surface. I exaggerated a bit, actually the first 6 miles was easy walk on a crushed granite type tread which made for quick walking with our battle tested legs. The weather was our friend for this two hours as well. As we walked into the small outpost Bridge of Orchy the weather changed. The next seven hours with be mixtures of driving rainfall, a brief respite at the secluded Inveroran Hotel. And a 7 mile hike across the Rannoch Moor. As we left the uncultivated land of the moor for the next outpost of Kinghouse we had a “drenching to the bone” rain and wind storm. The only thing I could think about was the hot coffee I was going to drink in the hotel at this one building remote station.
    At the time of my planning this walk the hotel was fully booked, requiring us to make alternate plans...

    A taxi ride 12 miles to Ballachulish for our accommodations at the Dalcraig B&B. Thankfully with a drying room and a hostess able to launder our wet clothes.
    Even after walking 19 miles we were able to walk the mile or so to a well earned dinner. Soup, fish and chips were the fare (and a pint or two) at the Isle of Glencoe restaurant.

    Note: Yesterday we first met Simon running on at the trail from north to south. Unbeknownst to us was that he had dropped his wife off at Inversnaid Hotel trailhead and driven to Inveranen/Beinglas Farm and was running back to meet her and their dog Billie. Shortly after, they passed us, in the difficult stretch of trail. We met again at Beinglas Farm Pub and had a pint together as we dried out. Today we met again on the military road about two hours north of Tyndrum. My Altra trail shoes got his attention initially...he is a fan...so much so that he used a pair to run the Boston Marathon in April. He and his wife live north of London and she is doing section hiking on the Way.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Dalcraig House in Ballachulish our B&B
    Breakfast prepared by AnnMarie our hostessBuachaille Etive Mor (3,351')steam coming off the top of the Devil's StaircaseTop of the Devil's StaircaseRiver Leven before it reaches Loch LevennTailrace Inn...short day meant late lunchHideaway Inn - Kenlochleven

    Novel with a sprinkle of familiarity

    3. juli 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    The penultimate day on the walking holiday on the West Highland Way began with a return to the Kinghouse Hotel. This trip we shared the ride with a couple of fellow walkers whose homes bookend Joe and I. One from the Bay Area and the other from Seattle. They were section hiking the WHW and were interested in bagging the Devils Staircase the highest point. The views back to the south of the Glen Coe were stunning even on a dreary day weather wise.
    The ‘Staircase’ is more a set of switchbacks as you ascend to the cairn that marks the top. This walk very much reminds me of a the hikes up the steep trails in the Columbia River Gorge without the drop-offs.
    The majority of the trail for the rest of the way to Kenlochleven was a descent with just a touch of traversing. The number of miles walked on the Way today was nine, allowing us to join a big group at the Tailrace Inn (pub) for a light meal.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Leaving Tigh na Cheo (Gaelic -The Guest House)
    Looking down to Kinlochleven and across toward Tigh na Cleo on hillHigh above Kinlochleven (in background)Beinn na Caillich (764m) -mountain of the old woman (Gaelic)Tigh-na-sleubhaicg - House by the gullied slope- We will attest to that!Ben Nevis the highest munro in the UK (1344m)96+ miles of the West Highland Way completedThe two 'Wayers' join 'Sore foot man' after dinner in Fort William

    Wet feet for the Webfoots

    4. juli 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    A reason for seeing the area between the lowlands and highlands of Scotland on foot are readily apparent on the last
    day of our walk. Munros above glens with fast streams running down their vibrant green slopes. So much so that the tread was covered in large puddles. In many cases we could not dance across them. Wet feet did not deter us. We had our last snack near the base of Ben Nevis before we walked into Fort William and the statue of ‘Sore Foot Man’
    The 96 and 1/2 miles walked from the outskirts of Glasgow to Fort William is considered (and listed) one of the top ten walks by National Geographic.

    I can say (with complete satisfaction,) I savored every step    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Guisachen Guest House - bidding goodbye to Joe and Alice
    Fort WilliamThe Highlands between Fort William and Bridge of Orchy from the coach of trainFirst glimpse of Loch Lomond from trainThe Rowardennan Hotel in the foregroundGlasgow Central, the Clydesdale Singers - and Boxer's travel angelGetting more than work done on the trainLondon near Essex stationFirst impression of Paris from cabParisian cafePeople gazing in ParisGrand Hotel Leveque on Rue Cler, Paris

    Remoteness to public…searingly

    5. juli 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    The morning following the completion of the West Highland Way I caught the train from Fort William to London. It was surreal to see the highlands from the coach of the train. I have heard it said, “the train ride through Switzerland is one of a kind”… I (and Mimi) will be there in a couple of weeks to make the comparison.
    After a brief visit to London, I am now in Paris, a very short distance from the Eiffel Tower, that and other venues.
    People gazing from the Parisian cafes may be a bit more to my liking.... The dichotomy between the vastness of Scotland highlands and the bustling city of Paris is striking…squared.

    The picture of the Clydesdale Singers has special meaning to Boxer…karma… I will share the story if asked, but only in person    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Every morning in Paris begins with Americano and croissantSeine RiverArc de TriompheJardin de la RoseraieJardin de la RoseraieJardin de LuxembourghJardin de LuxembourgJardin du LuxembourgHappy HourFound this vendor just up the street from Grand Hôtel Lévêque

    Marinating in Paris

    7. juli 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The first full day in Paris was spent figuring the ‘lay of the land’ as it were. Unlike New York City with its boroughs, (e.g.Manhattan, Harlem and the Bronx), I am staying in the 7th (of 20) arrondissement or districts (7th ARR). Home to many foreign government buildings and residences. Most of which were built by the aristocrats of Paris in the 18th century and seized by the government after the French Revolution. The Eiffel Tower is in this district as well as museums and large gardens. I was able to take three rather long walks to visit some of places of interest and even ventured out to the 8th ARR and the Champs-Elysees and Arc de Triomphe. The afternoon was spent at the Jardin de la Luxembourg (Gardens of Luxembourg.) A very relaxing spot (park like) to have lunch. Boxer must say that Paris is an expensive place to stay, but Happy Hour is universal.Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Alexander III Bridge the most ornate in Paris
    Grand Palais in Jardin de la NouvelleJardin de la Nouvellemorning AmericanoJardin des TuileriesPistachio pudding from my favorite street vendorHappy HourArtisan Boulanger Patissier...the bakery...another favorite

    Sa souvenir du cours de francais,

    8. juli 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    With a pinch of a ‘une peu’, translated: remembering some French class, a little. Some take aways from three days in Paris: don’t sell your stock in Phillip Morris, find an old pair of Levi’s- cut off legs and roll the denim over to make shorts; trail shoes aren’t a fashion statement; never in a hurry except when walking; or on e-bikes, scooters and motorcycles (mostly electric) - therefore Boxer is long Lime stock; old fashioned (non-cheaters) bikes are still being used by ‘boomers’ many looking like the ones they got as a birthday present from their parents; And Boxer feels a connection to those who shop for groceries every day…First coffee every morning (after an earlier walk) is a treat; lunchtime in a park (peaceful); and an abundance of people watching because Boxer only remembers “un peu francais”Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Gare de l'Est in Paris - trains depart from here
    1Apricot tart..breakfast on the train...from the Paris bakeryThe Saar...river is the border between France and GermanyMunich train station and my coach to PassauProductive fields between Munich and PassauFirst glimpse of the Danube on outskirts of PassauHeilig Geist Stiftschenke - the Holy Spirit Restaurant...great German cuisineWeiner SchnitzelPassau town square

    Adieu Paris...Hello Passau

    9. juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    As I bid farewell to the respite the ‘city of lights’ provided, to start the journey to Germany I am feeling a bit anxious. Traveling by train between two countries in which Boxer speaks neither (or reads) language was a challenge. Layer that with fluctuating train schedules and…the small consolation is I allowed myself an extra day to get to Passau, Germany and the Danube River. The trip included 2 transfers, both in Germany, both with short layovers. One delay in Stuttgart forces Boxer to find a different train from Munich to Passau. With some assistance from a railway official and a fellow traveler whom spoke a little English I was able to complete the final leg of the journey.
    Boxer sampled some fine German cuisine at the restaurant adjacent to his hotel….pared with a German beer.

    Breakfast was as apricot tart pared with sparkling water    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende

    A rendezvous at the confluence

    10. juli 2023, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Waking up in Germany was a great relief, I had solace in knowing Mimi was flying over the Atlantic Ocean to meet me in Passau, Pittsburgh's geographical doppelgänger, being at the confluence of three rivers.
    Our rendezvous would be an achievement in more ways than just the actual journey we both took to Passau, but a realization of something we had talked about for years…sometimes it was just small talk and other times it was dreaming out loud.
    Being a guest on a floating hotel, not spending much time planning our day or meals allowed us to reconnect and the opportunity to develop relationships with other guests. Tom and Pam from Florida, Tom and Rachel from Melbourne, Sue from Idaho, Wayne and Jane from Iowa and the program director Marek from Slovakia. Long walks, sitting on the upper deck as we motor downriver toward the Black Sea and enjoying a snifter of Drambuie with coffee. What could be better?    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Linz Hauptplatz
    Most dangerous street in Linz...actually where all the bars areHauptplatz by morning's lightPostlingbergThe moat surrounding PostlingbergLinz with the Danube in the background300+ miles on this pair of Altra Olympus 4

    Act III scene 2 - Linz AT

    12. juli 2023, Østerrike ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Even an early early morning lightning storm would not spoil the backdrop on the Danube. The thunder did provide a different type of wake up call…the plan was to make the the ten minute walk to the town square called the Hauptplatz with its 20-meter-high column made of white marble. Completed in 1723 (do the math) as a symbol of gratitude for having survived the ‘big 3’….fire, war and the plague. We would return to this main square with a group of folks who were traveling with us on the river journey after breakfast. It is hard to emphasize enough the influence the Catholic Church has on this region, but is bifurcated with the changes that are occurring…fewer people attending church on a regular basis according to our guide…the baroque influence as given way to the impatient style the millennium has wrought. We did however find time in the afternoon to take the steepest train in Austria to the Postlingberg, the twin spires of the church were only trumped by the moat that protected it from those who which would like to invade. Sitting well above the city and the Danube it provided a great opportunity for see the future (literally and figuratively.)

    The (red) Altra’s now have 300 miles + on them.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Early morning on the Danube
    The Wacau Valley along the DanubePort of Krems...albeit two miles from the actual city..Aldstadt Krems - where the Viking Embla portedView toward toward the city of Krems, ATadjacent to Gottweig Abbeyder Kremser Stadtparka taste of the region...

    Act III scene 3 - Krems & Gottweig Abbey

    13. juli 2023, Østerrike ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The beauty of river cruising was readily evident to Boxer on day 3 as we travelled through numerous locks while we slept. The process is interesting and educational the first time through, but…
    As the early risers witnessed, we entered the Wacau Valley with a mixture of buildings dating back centuries to a modern age wine producing region with grapes grown on the north and east slopes (mainly.) The villages were small and I am sure that B&B’s are a staple of the towns.
    I can share unequivocally that producing wine while absolving sins is the modus operandi of the Gottweig Abbey. Seriously they produce apricot wines (and jam)…tasty.
    Boxer enjoyed a mid afternoon walk to the city of Krems to visit der Kremser Stadtpark...he is convinced that parks and gardens tells one much about the culture and more revealing the folks who live there.
    The daily bread this evening was a taste of Bavaria… Boxer’s plate doesn’t do justice to the amount of sausage, kraut and veal he consumed. It wasn’t quite to the level of the ‘Genghis Khan’ at the Sapporo Brewery but close.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    DC II the tallest building in Austria
    Nordbahnviertel - across the Danube the antithesis of Vienna (Altstadt)Opernviertel - opera districtHofburg Palace - former imperial palace of the Habsburg dynastyVolksgarten2Handelskai along the Danube...before a late night departure for Bratislava

    Act III scene 4 - Vienna

    14. juli 2023, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Since leaving Passau on Tuesday last, we have ported in rather small, but quaint towns…not so today. We left Krems late last night and ported on west side of the Danube in Vienna early in the morning. Boxer’s first view of this was across the Danube at DC2 (tallest building in Austria) with the crescent moon winking at it.
    Our morning tour began in the middle Vienna, once the capital the Austria-Hungarian Empire..now the cultural center of this region. Some of the buildings (and streets) in this part of Vienna pre-dated A.C.
    After the guided tour Mimi and I left our group to explore this cultural center on our own.
    The Volksgarten was the first gem we found, with its 4000 rose bushes and 800 long stem roses. We found a bench with shade to enjoy the flavor and color of this beautiful garden. We wondered through the manicured lawns carefully staying on the paths. It provided a good opportunity to see what a rose garden on June St in Hood River might become.
    Boxer’s edification when he uses Google maps to find his way back to home base has steadily improved in the last couple of weeks. Even in old cities. We did find that smoking is widespread.,.but not only cigarettes…we slipped out of Vienna late in the evening but not before I had an opportunity for a late night walk on the Handelskai (walkway along the Danube) and a chance meeting with a pair of swans.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Earth - planet of peace at Hodzova Namestie with Presidential Palace in background
    1Grassalkovich Palace

    Act III Scene 5 - Bratislava, Slovakia

    15. juli 2023, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    The majority of our travels on the Danube have been either in Germany (un peu) or Austria. Today we dip our toes into Slovakia, a country which was behind the ‘Iron Curtain’ in my youth. Millennials or those of us who were not paying attention in 1989 may not be familiar with this political metaphor, it describes that after World War Two the imaginary line that separated countries under Soviet rule (and occupation) from those is that were not. Slovakia from 1945 until the early 1990’s was occupied by Soviet troops and rule.
    Today Slovakia and its capital Bratislava looks much different…a vibrant city with modern architecture and amenities…although it has not forgotten its past.
    Enough history for now, the Bratislava Castle perched above the town proper provided a unique place to wander about its gorgeous landscape. Mimi especially loved Bratislava and would have been happy to spend more time there. And the Grassalkovich Palace was spectacular for its beauty although Boxer was unable to prowl around. By noon we were off to Budapest.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    The first of many bridges illuminated for our arrival
    1ParliamentBuda PalaceTom and Pam (FL) - Tom and Rachel (AUS)Liberty Statue aka Freedom StatueBoxer on the Freedom BridgeMichelle dipping her toes in the Danube

    Act III Scene 6 - Budapest

    16. juli 2023, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    We reached Budapest after dusk on Saturday evening and that was the captain’s intention…for the lights of the city are a sight unlike any Boxer has ever seen. Was it the fact that one is seeing bridges, parliamentary buildings, statues, museums brightly illuminated from the deck of a ship in the middle of the Danube? Unequivocally yes.yes and hell yes. But the city turns out the lights at 11pm so don’t be late.
    The Danube separates the city of Budapest into a Buda (side) and a Pest (side) not all that dissimilar to Kansas City (MO and KS). The Pest side is east of the river, flat visually, with much of the history of this area going back centuries. The Parliament is on this side and Hero Square. Hungary like Slovakia yesterday was occupied by the Soviets and the Nazi before that.
    Mimi and Boxer toured the area by motor coach while guided by Oliver who sprinkled some anecdotes, his own personal story.
    Again we slipped away to visit the Fishermen’s Bastion with a group of new friends. Our river cruise voyage is a petri dish of the USA, Great Britain, Australia and New Zealand.
    Note: some context on the statue with lady holding the palm leaf (behind barbed wire) is called the Freedom Statue .
    The last photo is the night before we disembark on the ship’s deck below the Freedom Bridge    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Salzach River - Salz (salt) ache (river) - the river was the avenue to transport saltSalzach River eventually dumps in the Inn River in Passau, GermanyMaribel PalaceBuildings attached to the stone walls of cliffsSki country on the way to ZurichZurich AltstadtLimmett River

    From croissant to kaiser

    18. juli 2023, Sveits ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    An early morning walk to The Salzach, the river that flows out of the Kitzbuhl Alps through and dividing Salzburg between the old town and the folks who live (and work) there…or so it seems.
    If that wasn't enough we decided to venture to the lovely gardens of the Maribel Palace to contrast yesterday’s pictures with morning's light.
    The itinerary for today was to hop on the train headed for Zurich. To get there was a treat, traveling into the area that has many high mountain ski resorts…Boxer is feeling right at home…(This trip is morphing from a summer journey to a winter destination fact finding adventure.)
    Joe Dawkins's good friend Andy once shared with Boxer that Austria is shaped like a ‘frying pan’, as we get closer to the handle (in western Austria) the landscape changes to rolling hills of green and houses adorned with window boxes filled with color.
    In Zurich Mimi and Boxer are forced to our Google Maps app to find our hotel for the evening. We did not need an app to locate a restaurant exclusively serving fondue…now Boxer is sure that he is at home…    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Celebrating our 40th at our hotel in Geneva
    Swimming in the Limmat as it leaves Lake ZurichMother and som taking their mountain bikes on trainThe train station in ZurichLake GenevaA gabion and metal container feature that was a conversation starter

    40 years…nearly…dearly…sincerely

    19. juli 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    On 22July1983 Boxer + Mimi, then Chris and Michelle committed to a life together. It provided them with an abundance of memorable moments, two wonderful children and children of children.
    On the last full day Mimi and Boxer will be together until early August we celebrated our 40th…albeit three days early!!
    The early morning ritual of a walk continued in Zurich, our train does not leave for Geneva until midday, thus we can take a longer look at this cosmopolitan city with the aldstadt (Old Town) ranging to pre-medieval times.
    At breakfast we met a couple from New Jersey, after finding a common denominator (in pumping gas) Mimi found out that the gal was a school psychologist (and the husband retired) we went for the quinella with skiing. Unfortunately we didn’t get the answer, but they we’re headed to Zermatt, if Boxer were betting, they are skiers headed to do some hiking…
    The train ride to Geneva was filled with views of the Alps to the south, then Lake Geneva with the small towns and vineyards dotting the shores.
    The last stop on our three hour journey was the Geneva International Airport and a shuttle to our hotel.
    Fairly sure that 40 years ago we did not know that we would celebrate our ‘ruby’ anniversary in Geneva, Switzerland.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Nice buffet at the hotel in Geneva before catching train from airport to ZurichMore fields of sunflowersLimmat the river that commences at the outfall of Lake Zurichdrought tolerant garden in Zurich

    Bon Voyage mon ami…mon amour

    20. juli 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    It was with sadness Boxer bid adieu to Mimi they were going in different directions. Mimi flying west to PDX via London Heathrow and Boxer heading east by southeast to Castelrotto in the South Tyrol.
    That is just the beginning… Mimi will with the help of Nana and Opa (Alice and Joe) watch the ‘littles’ while their parents join me in the Dolomite’s.
    The area we will be hiking is near where the Winter Olympics will be held in 2026. But I progress, the plan was to take the train back to Zurich and early Friday complete the trip to Castelrotto. I did have an opportunity to explore Zurich in the late afternoon. Zurich, like Salzburg has an ‘aldstadt’ with contemporary shops dotting the walkway. After a light meal Boxer was ready to go to bed and dream about all the trekking trails in the Dolomites.    Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Garni Hotel Melissa down below Castelrotto (Kastelruth)Sciliar the icon of the area near CastelrottoAt Saalstuben - fine way to finish a long travel day

    He who rests rusts...finding Castelrotto

    21. juli 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    The penultimate leg of ‘Walking in Europe’ began today in Zurich…if all goes to plan I will leave Switzerland travel through Austria and take a hard right into northern Italy.
    On the train between Zurich, Switzerland and Innsbruck, Austria a rather large number of tourists boarded. It was utter chaos as they tried to find their seats. I share this anecdote because the last gal to board looked rather confused and as fate would have it the last empty seat was next to me. I could tell she was just trying to find a spot as the train started to move. Shortly thereafter the ticket collector came by and said she was in the wrong coach that she would have to upgrade her ticket to stay... after a rather heated conversation she paid for the upgraded seat. I share this because the conversation was in German so I was unable to understand. After the collector left I reached on my bag and pulled out a piece of chocolate that Mimi had left with me to hand to the septuagenarian. We shared, she smiled and we chatted using ‘Goggle translate’, although she knew more English than I knew German. As Boxer is inclined to do finding common denominators…she skis and has children and grandchildren…and that her daughter turned 40 yesterday, “well you know we have that in common as our son had a birthday yesterday as well,” We shared pictures of our families and chatted about my travels, she went to her phone and began to type and when she was done she said, “my mother has a saying, he who rests rusts.”Les mer

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Reisende
    Garni Hotel Melissa and Christian the proprietor
    view down to Suisi the base of the gondola to Alpi di SuisiAlpi di Suisi, the vast high alpine meadowsTschotsch Alm hutteOrtisei (St. Ulrich) from Croce FillnCastelrotto from high aboveCastelrotto in backgroundThe trail descending off the Alpi di Suisi toward Castelrottotrail under the Marinzen chairlift that originates in CastelrottoDinner at Zur Alten Schmiede

    46°33’44”N 11°33’14” E - elevation 3310’

    22. juli 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    45°18’15”N 121°45’24”W - elevation 3984’ Govy There is 8820 km (5480 miles) between Castelrotto (Kastelruth) and Government Camp. Note that the latitude is nearly identical, elevation is similar but finding other commonalities is difficult. More on that in later posts…more importantly when it comes to navigating around the area I am staying for the next couple of weeks is that all information is in both German and Italian. Although located in Italy we are very close to Austria and the German culture is prevalent…maybe. Once I realized that trail markers were in both languages it became easier to figure out where I am…more importantly where I want to go.
    Today I walked to Suisi to take the gondola to Alpe di Suisi where there are an abundance on trails to choose from. Earlier I said finding similarities between Castelrotto and Govy is hard…when hiking in this area you are on a high plateau, grassland with cliffs and trees below and the Dolomites rising above. No dormant volcano just a mountain range that forms
    part of the Southern Limestone Alps.
    The trail Boxer took had four huttes where he could have a coffee, glass of wine and even a light meal. Miles walk today more than nine…including a steep descent off the plateau through the trees back to Castelrotto and a pizza and beer.    Les mer

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