Our search for K-pop and Kimchi in the Land of Morning Calm Weiterlesen
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  • Tag 14

    Airplane pt. 2

    3. Juli 2022 in den USA ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We left Seoul this morning sad and exhausted. At least I did. Even though we left on time, it still felt like a frantic race to the airport by direct subway. We got to the departure gate literally as we were being called to board. As the plane took off, I took one last glance out the window and felt that rush of both excitement and sadness.

    It’s been a wonderful trip, an experience of a lifetime and I’m so glad I got to spend it with Nia. We came to South Korea with eyes, minds and hearts wide open and it did not disappoint. For us, the only thing that would have enhanced the trip would be if we knew more of the language — and that’s not on South Korea, that rests squarely on our own shoulders! In truth, the people of Seoul and Busan tried harder to effectively communicate than we did. People who helped us or welcomed us were abundant and sincere, heartfelt hospitality was shown without regard.

    Seoul was fast-paced, sultry and hectic and a combination of contemporary and ancient within a city block. Seoul was beautiful. And it’s also a place where I left a tiny piece of my heart today ❤️
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  • Tag 14

    Home

    3. Juli 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Right now, I feel like RM — “I’m exhausted, I just wanna go home!” Today was a big day in a couple of ways; first, we visited the Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ and second, it marked our very last full day in South Korea.

    We were picked up right on time from outside the hotel and driven to a larger coach which would then take us as close to North Korea as is humanely possible without basically becoming a victim of Kim Jong-un’s trigger-ready military. As we approached the DMZ area, there was a noticeable shift in the sky, becoming greyer with clouds hanging low. We were advised that South Korean military would board our bus to check our passports and minutes later, two young men in uniform appeared. They eyed each passport, glancing up from the photo to the face before moving on and then they were gone.

    Since the number of tour buses are regulated, we had to arrive early to buy tickets. Two buses at a time can enter and right now, only 400 people a day. We waited for the ticket office to open, taking it in shifts to look around Imjingak park which was built in the ‘70’s as a reunification memorial for the people who had been separated from loved ones torn between North and South Korea. There’s a sadness that hangs in the air when you see the bronze statues of two women, sitting at a station who symbolize the women who were sacrificed as “comfort women” for soldiers, or the abandoned train riddled with bullet holes and left to rust.

    We watched a short movie on the Korean War, telling of the secret tunnels that had been found under ground from North to South Korea, before donning hard hats to enter the third tunnel. It was a cold, steep decline with warnings given for folks with various ailments. I wanted to go but didn’t want to go at the same time, so decided to venture half way as a compromise. We ended up going almost all of the way in but once a sliver of panic set in, it was time to turn around. The climb back up was not for the faint-hearted, literally and figuratively and thankfully I made it to the top with breath to spare.

    The Dora observatory was one of my favorite stops on the tour — from there, you can use the viewers to actually look across into North Korea. As luck would have it, some of the clouds had lifted and we could get a distant view of apartments, hills, little to no people anywhere and the tallest North Korean flagpole there ever could be. At some point, South Korea had installed a flagpole and, not to be outdone, North Korea installed a taller one. Through the looking glass, North Korea was greener, smaller and emptier than I’d imagined. We thought about the people that lived there and how they lived. We thought about the people who had escaped there and how they escaped. We thought about Kim Jung-Un.

    A soldier hung around downstairs, indicating our time at the observatory was over; regulated because of the size of the road and the non- ability for tour buses to pass. Nia greeted the young bespectacled guy who readily responded and asked her where she was from. He fist-bumped her, saying “ah, Boston — very good, very good!” forcing a reminder that behind the uniform lies a regular kid practically, performing a duty he’s had since birth.

    It was an exciting morning and an experience I’m so glad we were able to have! We were dropped off in the Hongdae heat and made our way back. The first order of the afternoon was Seoul Station food! Nia went back for what she says are the best dumplings she’s ever tasted and I had a sizzling Bulgogi hotpot which was out of this world and definitely comfort food. We ended the evening with magnificent shaved ice desserts and complained about how tired we both were. Exhausted, without question. And now, sadly it’s time to go home.
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  • Tag 12

    O!RUL8,2?

    1. Juli 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Busan has been complex. While I’m so glad we were able to come down, it’s most definitely been the most challenging part of the trip. People speak English here, yet lots of people don’t speak English here which means that lots of food choices, for instance are a stab in the dark because they are written in the local language— as they should be!

    We set out this morning for Gamcheon Culture village, which I’ve often seen tagged as the “Santorini of Korea.” We opted for a taxi because of its somewhat awkward location and tried to walk up and secure one outside the hotel. The elder taxi guy smiled but clear his English was non existent and he beckoned the next guy who all but shoved us into another empty cab and threw “Gamcheon!” at the driver. I spent the entire journey hoping we’d actually get to our destination and not some other Gamcheon, miles out of our way. Luck was on our side and we arrived at the bright and colorful village in one piece.

    Gamcheon was delightful and humble. Set up in a mountain, the tiny homes are painted in colorful hues, perhaps to make up for the fact that it’s clearly in the older, poorer part of town. In the afternoon sun, the painted walls are blinding and yes, reminiscent of Santorini, Greece! We strolled, looked at handmade treasures, took pictures and ate ice cream before bidding farewell.

    We got savvy and took another cab to Songdo beach which surprised me with its beauty. As much as I like Haeundai yesterday, I think I liked this one more! A beach is a beach is a beach, but this one has more of an artistic flair to it, with sculptures out in the ocean and an enormous “cloud walk” bridge leading out into the water. Above, cable cars float by, transporting sightseers from one side of the beach to another. It’s a small slice of heaven.

    It was hard to leave Busan, I wish we could’ve stayed longer to explore more — maybe next time…Trying to get a train back to Seoul was a nightmare though! We were in the dark as to why all the trains were delayed because the led information screens were, well, actually dark. Workers made announcements with megaphones, while commuters strained to hear what was being said. There were crowd surges and obvious annoyance with people becoming louder and angrier. And hotter. An hour and a half into the delay, it was pandemonium. Hands waving, people pushing, voices yelling — it felt eerily like being in one of those apocalypse movies where the main character has to board the only bus out of town and it’s a fight to get on. And here I am holding a ticket, with zero knowledge of what’s being said or where I should go.

    I noticed a short woman looking intently at the tickets in my hand and we made eye contact. She began pointing at my ticket and showing me hers. Although I couldn’t make out everything she was saying, I could understand that her train was delayed too and her attempt at help us. And within moments she was gesturing to follow her. I didn’t even question it and took off after her. Every now and then she’s glance behind, making sure we were keeping up with her quick pace and not being lost to the crowd. We reached the platform and she verified with two separate workers before telling us, “Go straight! Go straight!” Making sure I knew where, I repeated her direction and she simply said, “have a nice day.” She turned and rushed off to her own waiting train.

    We trotted straight down the platform and the train was pulling in, moments later we were on our way back to Seoul. Once again, a Korean angel appeared right when we needed one and I truly wish I could thank her again.
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  • Tag 11

    If I ruled the world

    30. Juni 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    If I ruled the world, everyone would be able to wake up on their birthday in a room with a view, new city, new country at least once in their lives. The very first thing I did on my special day was to walk over to the huge window and look out. Out onto the city spread beneath me and the mountains ahead. I couldn’t help but smile and be thankful. (New) Hotel Asti for the win!

    My birthday wish was to go to the cafe, Magnate owned by the father of Jimin from BTS and it was easier said than done. When we arrived at Jigegol station the sun was already high and the thought of climbing a mountainside hill was somewhat unbearable. There were no taxis to whisk us off, so we set on our way. When I say “uphill” I don’t mean it lightly — this was practically a vertical climb where, if you stop you’d worry about rolling back down the hill!!! We fought our way through winding streets and alleys. stopping to catch our breath or rest weary legs. There were tiny homes on top of tiny homes, a sleepy dog here, a cat there. Every now and then we’d see a local emerge, then disappear from the heat. Of all the places I needed my phone to work and guide us, this was the time it couldn’t fail and surprisingly, the Wi-Fi stayed strong and led us to our destination. Maybe it was because we were so high up, maybe it was just pure luck…maybe it was another one of our guardians but we got there, deep into the belly of Busan.

    The cafe was unassuming on the outside and a hive of quiet activity inside. A stylish mix of old and new, with unique tables dotted throughout. We each picked a large slice of cake from a mouth watering selection and found a table to enjoy it. We likely saw Jimin’s father, milling around behind the counter but unfortunately he didn’t serve us. Before we left, we made sure to look around since the cafe in itself is a work of art. In the farthest corner there are shelves filled with Jimin’s hats and Nia was (strangely) able to tell me which episode of which show Jimin had worn the hat. It was quite the skill 🤣

    After being waves off by a gnarly bus driver, were somehow able to find our way back to the station based on my memory. It was also quite the skill. We headed over to Haeundai beach and delighted in walking on the sandy beach (at least I did, Nia didn’t want to destroy her new Jordans…) It reenergized me, being in the sun, walking on the beach, smelling the sea air and it was exactly what was needed for my birthday. It was actually hard to leave and I made sure to take one last look, until next time…
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  • Tag 11

    Moving On (Train to Busan)

    30. Juni 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    It was touch and go as to whether we would move on from Hongdae, because Nia wasn’t feeling well, but we were able to cancel our tickets and rebook for a time later in the day.

    Seoul station was a sprawling hotpot of locals and foreigners alike, trotting along to and from their destinations. After a while we were able to secure our excess luggage in lockers and move much freer. Lunch at a train station food court has never been more delicious; all the menus are posted in one location and your order whichever delicacy and pay for it. Take your receipt to the corresponding restaurant counter and pick up your freshly made to order meal. I made my way to my counter and handed the server my receipt, which he handed back as he pointed to the numbers on it. “2-4-8! 2-4-8! Ding, ding!!!” I understood I was to wait for my number and a bell when the food was ready, so I ‘kamsahabnida’d’ both servers as I backed away. The female server smiled…actually she laughed at me. It was in an emphatic and kind way, but she laughed at me and I could tell what she was thinking; “ah, bless her — the foreigner who only knows one word in Korean!”

    The cross country train to Busan took two and a half hours; a bullet that raced at around 190 miles per hour through cityscapes, mountains and rice fields. We arrived at Busan station and even though Busan is the second largest city, I didn’t think the station would look as futuristic for some reason. We got lost a couple of times trying to find the hotel and were standing in the rain trying to pull up navigation on a phone that didn’t want to cooperate. The realization that ‘Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore,” hit hard. Then once again, he appeared — our most valuable asset in Korea…the helpful stranger! Grocery store guy helped point us in the right direction and we were soon on our way, blood pressure lowered.

    We still couldn’t find the hotel, even when we knew where it was supposed to be. We wandered up and down street, finally asking again in a convenience store. We went from excitement to hesitation when we finally arrived. We pushed open the door and walked up a couple of creaky stairs to the musty lobby. A man was sitting behind a wooden ‘reception desk’ and looked at us, before grabbing a piece of paper. “Phillips?” “Yes! Yes, that’s us.” He handed me a worn room key card, “this your room, 205.” And waited for us to go. “Um, so….where?” “Elevator, elevator!” He said and gestured towards the wooden box that was to transport us upwards.

    The door opened outwards and we went in. It seemed dark, maybe because of the poor lighting or maybe because of the teeny tiny window that likely opened to a wall. There was an ancient desktop computer on a table and a double bed to the side. We sat down on it and felt sure that Fred Flintstone would’ve been quite happy sleeping on it. “Is there a sheet on the bed?!!” Nia shrugged, and on closer inspection we realized there didn’t appear to be and that it was a mattress liner or pad. I looked for the Wi-Fi password and thankfully was able to connect and went right to Booking.com. We picked up our belongings and walked right back out into the Busan evening and didn’t look back.
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  • Tag 9

    So What?

    28. Juni 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ 🌧 77 °F

    Rainy day tour of Nami Island and the Garden of Morning Calm.

    Rain, mist, rain, mist. But, so what? It was still beautiful and Nia got to zip line her way over to Nami! We saw filming locations for k-dramas, lamp lined paths…and ostriches?! Pine nut ice cream to send us on our way 😊Weiterlesen

  • Tag 8

    That That, I like it!

    27. Juni 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ 🌧 77 °F

    Mondays appear to be slow days, so it seemed like a great choice for a cooking class! We met up with our teacher for the morning at a subway stop nearby and she charmed us immediately with her mix of California-Korean-English. As a group of eight, we strolled through Mangwon market with ‘Sarah’ as our guide. Every few stalls, she’d stop and explain whatever it was we needed to know along with some things we didn’t. The market was a mix of sounds and smells, food and fish and every now and then Sarah would invite us to sample one dish or another, most of us obliging happily.

    Within about an hour, we had left the market and arrived at Sarah’s home to cook, where everything was laid out for us and waiting for action. Over the next couple of hours, we chopped, pounded, fried and tossed, finally producing the most gorgeous spread which included Bipimbap, Pajeon (seafood pancakes) and Dakgalbi which’s are like bite sized tacos made with leaves instead of the actual taco! Sarah added a few sides she’d already prepared along with makgeli, rice wine. We ate literally until we were full, enjoying each delicious flavor and marveling at the apparent simplicity of all we’d made. It was a great experience!
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  • Tag 7

    Serendipity, part 2

    26. Juni 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    We packed up early and went to find breakfast before leaving for Hongdae. As luck would have it, the same place we had our first meal was open early. When we walked up to the counter one of the women smiled to her colleague and said, “mashisoyo!” remembering us from our previous visit. Our dumplings were equally delicious the second time around and the perfect start to our day.

    There was a mist in the air, the threat of rain for the day and to pass time, we strolled stopping here and there to look at city art work or to stop in the store for an early morning pistachio and cherry ice cream. There are some things you get away with while on vacation and this was one of them.

    We arrived in Hongdae to immediate hustle and bustle. An immediate influx of young people. Immediate confusion. We walked from one end of the street to the other in search of the “close by” hotel and, frustration bubbling, wanted to give up. Even with a map, even with directions, the Mercure hotel remained elusive. We were standing, right in the middle of the sidewalk just about feeling ready to cry when he appeared; “you need help?” “I’m trying to find this hotel!” I told him as I showed him the map. He looked down at it, then “okay! Let’s go!” We trotted after him, chatting as we went and I thought he would simply point us in the direction of the hotel — he did, but continued with us until we got there! The entrance was not easily accessible and definitely not obvious so our new friend whipped out his phone and called *someone* to find out how we can enter. He beckoned us to a storefront door which then led to the hotel whose lobby was on the fourth floor. We were escorted by him upstairs to the lobby where we breathed a sigh of absolute relief. I couldn’t thank this stranger enough because my thank you’s just didn’t feel sufficient… but I guess they were to him. I honestly don’t remember seeing him get back into the elevator, maybe I was just distracted — but as if by magic, he was gone. Nia says that the guy was a guardian angel, much like the man yesterday, two empty seats down; an angel whose job it is to keep you safe. I’m inclined to agree with her because they sure showed up when we needed them!

    We literally dropped off our bags and ran over to the HYBE Insight building to look at the BTS exhibit which we thoroughly enjoyed, before returning to the sensory overload that is Hongdae!
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  • Tag 6

    Serendipity

    25. Juni 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    The forecasted rain disappeared so we were lucky to fit in the N. Seoul Tower earlier in the day. The meandering mountaintop street leading to the cable car was a brutal climb in the heat and humidity, even though we thought we’d set out earlyish. We rode the cable car to the top, but there’s something about being suspended in the air in a steel and glass capsule that makes my stomach lurch and my head spin now — the brief views I dared to have were of a city dressed in haze for miles. The observation tower itself was much of the same, a fun experience but not nearly as exciting as our Lotte tower experience.

    Our feet safely on the ground, we ambled through a maze of Myeongdong streets packed with weekend visitors in search of bargains. Lined with local vendors, there were indeed many bargains to be had and Nia was delighted to have the sweatshirt she wanted haggled down to a price that made her smile.

    Since the weather was unexpectedly on our side, we decided to leave and find our way to Jamsil Stadium for a baseball game. The local Doosan Bears were playing this weekend and since my resident baller is also in town, it seemed like fate. We met a friendly Korean-New Zealander on the subway who chatted freely and helped us navigate our destination. We had no idea just how packed it would be, with families and friends alike gathering for the game. We were able to get two seats together for 18,000 won which seemed like a bargain and in we went. The stadium was filled with loud, dedicated fans singing and waving team and country flags, each side with their own team chants and ‘fight songs.’ It took asking two people along the way before we found our seats and Nia said, “yeah but I’m scared that a ball is gonna come right to me if we sit here!!!” Two empty seats away from her was a man with a blue and red baseball glove. I nodded over towards him, “at least he can save you if a ball comes your way!” I joked. An array of food and drinks were available, including the Korean ballpark staples of Fried chicken and beer, which is happily and freely chugged while watching. We opted for ballpark dumplings instead, so we were a couple of Chocolate Chips with Chopsticks…at Jamsil Stadium!

    With the crowd cheering him on, Kim Jae-Hwan, the Bears’ lefty power hitter pounded the ball into the stands — to right field…and headed our way! We could see it coming, the leather projectile aiming right. for. us. This is not a drill, people! Instinctively, Nia and I darted to the side, phones dropping to the floor and our neighbor with the blue and red glove reached across those two empty seats with one calm and unbothered motion — to snag the ball!!! The crowd erupted and #32 made it back to home base amid chants, claps and silver streamers exploding and celebrating a Doosan home run!

    Thank you, random stranger, for saving my daughter from being drilled in the head with a baseball 😊
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  • Tag 5

    No More Dream

    24. Juni 2022 in Südkorea ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    There were two things I dreamed of doing while in Seoul and today was the day to do them! After the torrential rain yesterday, we were forecast a dry day so we set out early to Deoksugung Palace for the Changing of the Guard ceremony. Every day, multiple times the ceremony is held outside the palace and represents the shift change of the palace guards, or the "Wanggung Sumunjang.” Back in the Joseon Dynasty, eons ago the guards were in place to patrol the premises and protect the King — the original CCTV, if you will. There’s heavy drumming, marching and yelling in the display and the only problem was that we couldn’t understand what was being said. Not *really* a problem though because the visuals are grand enough to make up for it. After a twenty minute performance, the guards changed clothes and returned as civilians, while Nia and I finished an on the go breakfast.

    As close as it is, Gyeongbokgung Palace was not a straightforward venture for us and we somehow lost our way. Thankfully, more kind strangers rescued us and we emerged from the station to an ancient palace set in a mountain vista. It’s every bit as grand as my mind had imagined. Even though it looked threatening, the rain was holding back as if it knew we had longed to be here. We found our way to a Hanbok rental and honestly, it was the first one we came across. It didn’t matter that it was likely overpriced at 40,000 won for the two of us — we picked the premium Hanbok anyway and stepped into the dressing area to have it put on. And I mean ‘have it put on,’ because it’s definitely a process! I’m actually surprised by how excited I was just to see it in person and seriously, it was way more beautiful than imagined! Today was the day, no more dreaming about it!

    We left the store and floated back to the palace, rimmed skirts swaying as we walked, sleeves itching as we moved. I kept worrying about how naked my bottom half felt under the huge skirt and marveling at the same time how airy and free it felt! There were hundreds of visitors dressed up; tourists, families, locals — each stopping to immortalize themselves on film with selfie sticks, and video on tow. Almost as soon as we arrived two Korean elder women found us (we were easy to spot 😊) and it happened; one of them reached out and yanked a loc of my hair. They were WAY more intrigued by Nia’s though and we heard the words “ohhhhhhh, beautiful!” She touched, she admired and she also spoke with Nia in her own language. I learned that the woman was curious as to whether Nia had gotten her hair braided like that in Korea and of course, Nia told her, no. The second woman was more reserved about the interaction and even though she smiled through it, she didn’t touch — rather just made braiding gestures with her fingers. There were wide beaming smiles from both though.

    We found a quiet and pretty spot and set the camera down to try to take a picture when a man came, out of nowhere and gestured he’d take the picture for us. We didn’t realize it would be quite the photo shoot until we looked back at his work after he’d disappeared!

    A bunch of school children on a field trip bustled by, chatting and stopping to take group shots so I offered my hand to take their whole groups’ photo too. The little photographer girl, about eleven didn’t want to hand over her camera but al the other kids urged her to. She wasn’t budging so, seeing a boy with a cell phone I gestured to hand it to me. He couldn’t give it quick enough, saying “Photo! Photo!” And as if by magic, photographer guy appeared again to take the picture and I handed him the cell phone. No sooner did I do so, one of the girls in the group started beckoning me to join their photo shoot and all the kids followed. So Nia and I had photo shoot number two, with the kids telling Nia how to pose with her hands in true young-people fashion! When we were done, there was a chorus of “thank you’s” and “see you tomorrow’s!” And then one boy exclaimed, “see you in America! Have a nice day!” He was thrilled when I returned the sentiment and looked like he’d just hit the jackpot! I’m sure his teachers would be equally thrilled by him testing out his English skills on a native speaker!

    We crashed super early back at the hotel and slept for hours. Guard ceremony, check. Wear Hanbok, double check. Life is good.
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