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  • Day 7–9

    Isle of Skye

    June 16 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    After a full day of train and bus travel yesterday, going from Inverness to the Isle of Skye, today we went on a full day, guided minibus tour of Skye. The photos will speak for themselves, but in a nutshell, it was an amazing tour! The stops were all very scenic and we had a knowledgeable, Scottish guide who gave us lots of history and interesting facts as he took us from site to site.
    We were very lucky to have gotten on this tour. I tried booking it on line months ago, but there was only one spot available. I emailed the company and got a quick response from Bill (who turned out to be our tour guide today) who magically made two more spots available! There were no other touring companies with spots available and our only other option would have been to rent a car. Well that would have been a nightmare! Most of the roads we were on today were single lane, narrow and winding. All along the routes were very, very short sections that were slightly wider to allow two vehicles traveling in opposite directions to pass each other. They were all identified with a little sign, “Passing Place”. Our driver was constantly scanning the road ahead to see if he needed to use an upcoming passing place to allow oncoming traffic to pass. On more than one occasion we would be caught in between, and one or the other drivers would have to back up to the nearest passing place. Fine, if you’re not having to drive!
    The touring, day trip started at 9:15. Our first stop, after we left our home base of Portree, were the Fairy Pools. Here we hiked along a trail and saw a series of small waterfalls in a grassy meadow setting at the foot of a towering mountain. From there we drove to Neist Point and hiked along another trail to get a number of amazing views of the ocean and surrounding landscape. Soon after, it was time for lunch so we stopped at a cafe on the route. Our touring group of 16 were seated at a number of small tables. We got to know Kevin and Nancy, a couple from Virginia. After lunch, the tour continued with photo stops at Quiraing, Old Man of Storr, Cuillin Mountains, Kilt Rock as well as time to walk through Fairy Glen.
    Back in Portree we stopped in at our accommodation to drop off some things and headed straight to the church around the corner. Not to attend a service, but to eat dinner! It’s a church that’s been turned into a restaurant. Quite a cool setting. And we were able to watch a bit more EuroCup Soccer on their big TV screen while waiting for the food to be served. I had a big plate of fish and chips. Emma had a burger and Laura had scampi.
    We ended the day watching France beat Austria in EuroCup soccer back in our room.
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  • Day 5–7

    Inverness

    June 14 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Yesterday was a travel day. Our first of four train trips in Scotland. We went from our first stop, Edinburgh, to Inverness. About a three hour ride through the Scottish highlands. It was a comfortable ride with the three of us seated at a table.
    On arrival in Inverness we walked the short distance to our next home. It too is an AirBnB and, although its in a very old and somewhat run down building, our accommodation is very nice. Roomy, full kitchen and appears to be recently, beautifully renovated.
    After unloading our luggage and a short rest, we decided to tour the city centre on foot and pickup some food for dinner. We swung by the tourist information centre, got some helpful ideas on what to see, and picked up a map. Unfortunately, Inverness. Castle is a no go as its under renovation and closed to the public. We did tour an interesting historical museum before heading to the grocery store to pick up some food for dinner.
    It was the start of the European Cup soccer competition, and Scotland was scheduled to play the host country, Germany, in a few hours. We thought we might go back downtown to watch it with the fans in a pub, but decided instead to watch it on the TV in our room. Probably the better idea as Scotland played poorly and got whacked 5-1.
    We started off our one full day in Inverness with coffees and breakfast in town. It cost us $40 for three scones, a muffin and two coffees. Don’t know that we’ll do that again anytime soon.
    Following the meal we walked to the bus stop nearby and caught the bus to Culloden where we visited the historic battlefield and museum. We decided to sign up for a guided tour of the battlefield. It was a beautiful day weather wise and having the guide explain the story of the famous battle that occurred there in 1746 made for a very enjoyable experience. Following the tour we explored the museum on our own.
    After arriving back in Inverness we picked up food for lunch and dinner and walked home to eat lunch before heading out to explore some more of the sights in Inverness. Emma decided to go for a run. Laura and I headed down to the Ness River and walked along both sides following a pedestrian pathway. We met up later with Emma in the city centre and visited an historic church, a bookstore inside what once a church, the oldest home in Inverness and followed along a few streets we hadn’t yet seen.
    We ended the day back in our accommodation where we made dinner and then relaxed, watching shows on our devices afterwards.
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  • Day 4–7

    Edinburgh - Day 2

    June 13 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Another big walk about today. Close to 25K steps! What better way to see a city with so much of interest to see though, eh? Our plan for today had been to walk up the castle and tour inside. Unfortunately, we weren’t the only ones with that in mind. So, admission tickets were sold out for the day and we couldn’t get in! Everyone had bought them online beforehand. Now you not only have to book accommodations and transportation beforehand, you need to do that for popular tourist attractions as well, it seems.
    Sometimes things happen for a reason that isn’t always immediately apparent. After finding out that we couldn’t tour the castle, we walked back down the hill and came across the National Art Gallery. It is free of charge so we decided to check it out. Turns out that the museum contains a very large collection of paintings and art including from the likes of Rembrandt and Matisse. It was more than you could possibly appreciate in one visit, but it was enjoyable to take in a sampling for a few hours.
    From the museum we walked back to our place of stay for lunch and a rest before continuing the walk about. Our next destination was Dean’s Village, a picturesque area of town with a small river where there were once several mills for grinding grain to supply the city’s bakeries. We followed a path along the river all the way to our next destination, The Royal Botanical Gardens. That was also very enjoyable. There are several areas, organized into themes such as Chinese Medicinal garden, Rock Garden, Woodlands Garden … each with a huge collection of plant species, many we had never before seen.
    We had by now covered a lot of area and it was time to pick up some food and head back to our room to make dinner. I had a tasty East Indian curried chicken with rice meal. Laura and Emma had pasta.
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  • Day 3

    Edinburgh - Day 1

    June 12 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Did a whole lot of touring Edinburgh on foot today. Over 25,000 steps worth, in fact! The day started with me going across the street to Cafe Nero to pickup coffees for Laura and I to have in our room. Rather pricey. Might want to start looking at brewing our own though whenever we have a coffee maker in our kitchen. We’re already doing our own breakfast and lunches by picking up groceries in the local store. And last night, we even made a nice pasta with salad for dinner using our kitchen.
    We started the day’s touring by heading to the Royal Mile. So amazing to see all the historic buildings that have stood for twice as long as Canada has even been a country! Went inside the Giles and marvelled at the beautiful stained glass windows and massive pipe organ!
    Also, ventured inside a free history museum which focussed on the history of life for those who have lived in Edinburgh. So much that we have in our homes today that we all just take for granted never existed for many, years ago. No running water. No toilets or sewage treatment. No electricity. No heat. No A/C. Tiny rooms for entire families.
    Our tour de foot continued with a hike up Arthur’s Seat to get a great view of the city and surrounding landscape. It’s actually an ancient volcano turned into favourite hiking destination for locals and tourists. Lots of people. Looked liked a scene of hikers going up Everest except that there is not a single trail up. It’s quite wide open with many, well worn routes to the top. The panoramic view from the top made the effort well worthwhile!
    We took a slightly different route back to our room for lunch. Emma went via a route to a camera store so she could get her camera cleaned. Laura and I followed along a popular jogging and cycling route back to the Royal Mile and then to our room. Felt good to take a break and have some food to fuel up for the afternoon where we did a little more touring the sights and a bit of shopping. Laura’s suitcase fell apart on arrival yesterday so we needed to find a replacement!
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  • Day 3

    Edinburgh, Scotland

    June 12 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    And so, another overseas adventure has begun for Laura and I! Day 1 was a long, travel day beginning at 2:30 pm when I left Duncan to pick Laura up from work and drive down to Victoria to meet up with Marc and drive out to the Victoria airport. We had a bit of stress on the Malahat when we came to a sudden standstill just south of the Shawnigan Lake exit and saw traffic backed up for as far as the eye could see! There had been a vehicle accident, but luckily, it was just being cleared as we arrived, and soon traffic was flowing, albeit very slowly for quite a distance.
    The flight to Vancouver and then the connecting flight to London both left on time and we had seats together despite not having paid for seat selections when booking. We were also able to check in our carry-ons for free, which was nice. On arrival at Heathrow in London we made our way on foot and train to terminal 5 where we found a Cafe Costa and stopped for lattes. Emma arrived at Heathrow from Newquay, on the English coast, soon after, and we headed to section A9, where we arranged to meet, just inside the security zone for departures.
    It was great seeing her again! Emma had been traveling through Europe with her friend, Emma for 6 weeks. The “M&M’s” visited England, The Netherlands, France, Poland, Italy, Austria, Spain and Portugal together and now, Emma, would travel to Scotland and Ireland with us for the next three weeks before heading off on her own for an additional month of travel.
    We had to wait a few hours at Heathrow, but soon we were on our way to the final destination for the day, Edinburgh. Once there we made our way to the bus stop and caught the bus to town where we got off just a few hundred meters from our AirBNB accommodation. We were a little concerned on arrival when we couldn’t find the lock box with the key to get inside, but soon realized that the room was on Atholl Lane not Atholl Crescent!
    Shortly after dropping off our luggage in the room we walked a short distance to a local pub where we had dinner. Laura had a vegan chili, I had the meat version, and Emma had Mac ‘n Cheese. I also quenched my thirst with both an Ossian beer (a local beer with citrus added) and a Scottish lager. The pub was packed as it was open mic night. We left shortly after that started at 9 pm.
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  • Day 30

    Final Reflections

    September 30, 2023 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    On this month long trip, we have seen a lot of interesting and beautiful historical buildings and geographies. I have talked about many of these in my blog entries. I have also been intrigued by a number of technologies that we have seen. Here they are in random order:

    DOORS AND LOCKS
    As we travelled, I was fascinated by the endless designs of doors and locking mechanisms. Locking doors seem to be a technology that has been around for over a thousand years in an endless variety of designs to both the door itself and the locking mechanisms. I loved looking at the oldest wooden doors in the historical locations we visited as well as the most modern in the places we stayed. Many are quite different than those you find in our homes.

    FOOD DELIVERY SERVICES
    Just like we have Doordash and other food delivery services in Canada, so too there are many in all the countries we visited. What I found interesting is that often it is individuals on bicycles with large, insulated containers on their backs, not drivers in cars, picking up the food and delivering it to their customers.

    SMART BENCHES
    In a few spots, we saw benches with solar panels on their top surfaces and both wired and wireless charging available on their side panels. It seems to be a great idea in locations that get lots of sunshine.

    TRAIN TRAVEL
    We covered a lot of distance on a variety of trains on our trip. They make for a far more relaxing and enjoyable holiday than driving. Sometimes else is dealing with the traffic issues and the directions. It is also more enjoyable than flying because you see the countryside and you don’t have to go through the hassle of getting to and from an airport and through the security and screening process. You can waste the better part of a day for just a short flight between cities.

    I do have to say, however, that the trains are much busier than I’ve experienced on previous trips to Europe, So, I’d recommend reservations even for first class travel where they are offered. I also found trains to be a little less reliable so if you are planning a long trip with several connections, be sure to allow extra time between the connections in case your train runs late.

    STONEWORK
    All the houses and buildings that date back hundreds and even thousands of years are built of stone. The walls, the roofs, the fences around properties and the driveways are all made from stone. As well, cobblestone streets are everywhere and its fascinating to look at all the different types of stone used and the different patterns in which they are laid. To me, it is the amazing stonework that gives the cities and buildings much of their uniquely European character.

    TRUCK TRANSPORT
    Roads in Europe are somewhat narrower than those in North America. It seems that trucks make up for the lack of width by going higher. We passed a number in England while driving around in our rental car. I doubt they would fit under overpasses in Canada and the US. I also did not see any containers on trucks so I’m not sure what happens when they arrive by sea. They must all get loaded onto trains and then emptied in train yards and loaded onto trucks? Seems rather inefficient!

    BUILDING RESTORATION
    Historic buildings are being restored to their former glory all over Europe. Air pollution has taken a big toll on over the years, It is a massive undertaking. In some cases, it means completely rebuilding. Everywhere you see scaffolding. Entire buildings are wrapped in it. Fortunately, many of the most significant, historic buildings have been completely restored. Last time I was in London, Big Ben was wrapped in scaffolding. It has now been completely restored and looks amazing!

    OLD VEHICLES
    We spotted an old Porsche in Innsbruck, an MG in England and a Nissan 240x in Salzburg, but beyond that all you see are relatively new cars. It seems no one keeps their vehicles very long and any older than maybe ten years seem all but nonexistent.

    MEAL ORDERING
    We found several restaurants where you choose your meals and customize them using a touch screen. When you place the order it gets sent to the kitchen and a short time later your meal is ready to go for either eat in or take out. At a restaurant in Innsbruck you are given a plastic card as you enter. You choose a meal, and a chef makes it to your specifications while you watch and wait. He then enters the details of your meal and any beverages or other side items you have ordered onto a plastic card. You take the card to the cashier when you are ready to pay. The card appears to have no chip embedded so it’s a mystery to me as to how the information gets stored?

    WASHROOM FACILITIES
    In the bathrooms of the apartments and hotels we stayed, I was impressed by the tankless toilets. I’m not sure if there is a tank hidden in the wall behind the toilet or whether they use a different technology. As well, in one of the public washrooms I was surprised to find a Dyson hot air blower to dry your hands built right into the water faucet!

    Well, we’re back in Vancouver waiting for our connecting flight to Victoria. It’s 2:45 AM on out time so we’re feeling a bit sleepy! And, so ends our Europe Vacation 2023!
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  • Day 29

    Day Trip Into London

    September 29, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This is our last full day in Europe. We’ve arranged to take the train to London and spend the day taking in some of the highlights. First we had a short drive to get gas and return the car to the rental place. Boy did it feel good to be done with that! We were really looking forward to a relaxing train trip and walk about the city today. We boarded our commuter train shortly after dropping off the car.

    The plan was to start our day in London with an Uber Boat cruise on the Thames. Our train from Guildford took us to Waterloo Station. We took a metro train to the river at Canary Wharf where we boarded the boat. We stayed on the boat all the way to Battersea Power Station and back to Westminster where we got off to start a walking tour. We were able to see many London sights on the cruise, including Big Ben, Tower Bridge, Houses of Parliament … The Big Eye, Battersea Power Station.

    Once on foot, we walked on the promenade along the river from Westminster to the Millenium Bridge where we crossed over the Thames and walked up St. Paul’s Cathedral. From there we went past Big Ben, Westminster Abbey to Buckingham Palace. We followed Birdcage Walk and other streets to Smithfield Market then, for our final stop, we walked to Covent Gardens, a very busy, popular shopping area and market.

    From there it was quick and easy to make our way back to the metro, catch the train back to Waterloo Station and then a fast, direct commuter train back to Guildford. In Guildford, we walked to a restaurant where you can choose from a variety of noodle and rice dishes on a touchscreen and pay with your card. Your order is sent automatically to the kitchen and you soon get your meal.
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  • Day 28

    Drive to the Cotswolds

    September 28, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today we rented a car. Our first destination was Winchester. We got there in about an hour. We were able to find parking in a parkade close to the city center. As we started our walk we came across a very old grist mill. Inside was a coffee bar, where we stopped for a coffee and to pickup a bun for lunch. From there we found our way to the famous, Winchester Cathedral. A huge church with a history dating back over a thousand years. We paid our admission fee and joined a guide for a walking tour inside. Many famous bishops and others are buried here including the well known author, Jane Austin. After leaving the cathedral we walked along the main pedestrian street and worked our way back to the car. We saw the oldest house in Winchester dating back to 1450!

    The other destination we had planned for today is Northleach, a small town in the Cotswold area of England, about 1 1/2 hrs from Guildford, that has a place that rents bicycles. The town is located close to a number of other small, very old and very quaint English towns that can be accessed by bicycle along quiet, lightly travelled roads. There are several different bicycle routes possible with varying lengths and levels of difficulty. We picked one that is about 25 km in length and easy but would take us through several beautiful villages. It turned out to be a perfect bike trip for us. Lots of beautiful scenery, old and historic buildings. We got a bit lost towards the end but we sorted it out.

    Once we had dropped off the bikes we headed back to Guildford. Unfortunately, it started to rain a little and then it got dark as well. Normally, that wouldn’t bother me on a drive, except maybe the Malahat. But, we were finding the driving in England to be very stressful already. Way too many confusing traffic circles, careless drivers and the challenge of driving on the left hand side of the road. On the journey we narrowly missed getting hit head on by a driver passing too many cars; we almost sideswiped a car in my blind spot when having to quickly make a lane change; almost drove off the road when taking a wrong turn at a highway exit; and we added almost twentieth minutes to our trip home after missing turnoffs. We will never again rent a car in England. Much too stressful!

    By the time we finally got back to the hotel it was late and we were too tired to walk into town for dinner so we had dinner in our hotel restaurant. It was tasty and filling, but way above what we would have preferred to pay.
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  • Day 27

    Touring Guildford

    September 27, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After yesterday’s long journey, it was great to have an easy day with no travel. We have breakfast included at our hotel so that’s how we started the day. Afterwards we walked down the hill into town to find the tourist information office. It was not open yet so we went for cappuccinos at really nice, Italian coffee bar. Nearby we noticed a huge, final closing out sale with everything marked off by an additional 50%, at a department store. Had to check that out even though we really have no room to carry more. Still, I couldn’t resist buying a pair of Levis and a pair of shoes!

    The tourist information office was very helpful and we walked away with handfuls of maps and brochures. It also contained an art gallery inside the historic building so we decided to check that out. We then proceeded to follow “The Historic Trail” to see places of interest, old as well as new, around the heart of Guildford. We had a numbered map for a self-guided tour so that made it quite simple.

    Sights included Tungsgate Arch, built in 1818 and located on High Street, a pedestrian only street; Castle Square, the boundary of the medieval town; The Great Tower, built by the Normans in the early 12th Century; the remains of The Royal Palace, visited more than 100x by Henry III; Castle Arch, built in 1256 as the main entrance to Guildford Castle; Guildford Museum, with its display of artifacts and St. Mary’s Church, the only building in Guildford that dates from Saxon times.

    After all this touring, we had worked up a pretty good thirst and appetite for a British pub meal. We chose the historic “Three Pigeons Pub” on High Street. We ended our day with a stroll along the Wey River before walking back to the hotel.
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  • Day 26

    Innsbruck, Austria to Guildford, England

    September 26, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Well, it was a marathon, but it all went as planned and we made it to England last night. It was a 15 hr journey:

    6 am - start walking to the Innsbruck train station
    6:10 - board train to Kufstein
    7:02 - board train to Munich
    8:28 - board train to Stuttgart
    10:52 - board train to Paris
    14:05 - walk from Paris East train station to Paris North
    17:13 - buy London transit tickets and catch metro to London, St. Pancras International
    18:32 - arrive and walk to King’s Cross St. Pancras metro station
    18:36 - catch metro to Victoria stop and walk to Victoria Station
    18:41 - catch Southern train to Claphorn Junction
    18:52 - catch Southwestern Railway train to Guildford
    19:26 - arrive in Guildford and walk to hotel
    19:50 - arrive at destination

    By the time we arrived at the hotel we were pretty tired out. The icing on the cake was the final walk from the Guildford train station to the hotel. It was basically all up hill. I was really happy that the hotel has a fridge full of cold drinks in the lobby and you can help yourself. I picked a 1/2 l bottle of a locally brewed beer. As soon as we got to our room, after hauling our luggage up two flights of stairs, I had nice hot shower and enjoyed that 🍺!
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