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Mexico City 2018

January 2018
A 11-day adventure by Laurie Read more
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  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 11

    Last day in Mexico

    January 28, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Today was one of those low key but very enjoyable days. No rushing around, no major sites, but a really nice way to end the visit. First off -- no more horrible coffee, so we headed to Starbucks to start the day. I would have preferred a good local shop but none presented itself. Then to the Arte Popular museum, and then off to the market, where we were shocked to find that we saw not one other foreign tourist.

    Our one visit was to the Borda Gardens, with a nice little museum of contemporary artist exhibits off to the side. The one I liked the best was the Mexican "still life" that added an unusual element to the normal array of things to eat that you find in a still life. As we were sitting in the garden, a man about our age came up and started talking. Turns out he is a poet, and as we were having a nice chat and as he began reading his poems, a young aspiring poet heard one of the poems and came up to join the group. A half hour later, with many poems having been read by both, we went back to the main square for a great lunch up on a balcony overlooking the Square and all its activities. Really one of the best meals I have had on this trip.

    After lunch, we enjoyed watching the crowd as the local police put on a comedy routine for kids and adults alike. There is surely no political correctness here, but everyone seemed to be enjoying it. I assume this is good PR for the police, whose reputation in Mexico is pretty bad.

    On the way home, I was sorely tempted by the mango on a stick sprinkled with chili pepper, but my guts have been fine so far, so why tempt fate?

    Now back to chill out and exercise before our last foray into Cuernavaca.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 10

    Xochicalco saves the day!

    January 27, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The weekend getaway to Cuernavaca took a definite uptick today. At 10 am, Enrique showed up in his car to whisk us away to the ruins at Xochicalco, dating from about 700 AD. They had some earthquake damage, and some parts of the vast city were closed, but all in all it was pretty well open for business. Great museum, really well designed, but of course it's walking around that is the most fun. Lots of ruins to climb, and one particularly beautiful pyramid that had four walls of carvings of the Plumed Serpant and other deities. Really something.

    After that, Enrique took us to a 17th century hacienda, now fancy restaurant and hotel complex, for a good lunch of local specialties. We are not used to traveling around this way, kind of fancy for us, but it was a nice treat and felt very luxurious.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 9

    To Cuernavaca

    January 26, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Well, we were wrong. Cuernavaca is not some beautiful little town in a valley of eternal spring. It is a chaotic, congested, haphazard amalgam of people and way too many cars, bikes, and buses of all sizes. Totally not what we were expecting. Bad planning. I would not recommend coming here unless you are interested in just seeing what life here looks like. It gives new meaning to what urban planners mean when they talk about the perils of a lack of planning.

    Cuernavaca does have a few things to visit, but unfortunately our weekend trip planner neglected to research the extent of earthquake damage. Most of the main sights in town are closed to visitors (like the palace where Hernán Cortes lived after he conquered Mexico City and a cathedral that looks interesting from the outside) but one museum was open. It was the house of Robert Brady, a rich American painter who lived in Cuernavaca and jammed a million items into his very nice house. One Frida self-portrait and a few other notable paintings crammed in between figurines, paintings, plates, wall hangings, and random other collectibles of all types.

    At least it looks like the ruins at Xochicalco are open, so we will head there tomorrow. Sunday's plan looks like a mariachi mass (I am serious) and some waterfall that may be dry because there has been no rain. I would not say this has been the best choice of places to go, but the beer is good.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 9

    Quick morning trip

    January 26, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Before heading out for our weekend in Cuernavaca, we decided to take a quick trip over to the National Palace for the Rivera murals and the Cathedral, neither of which Joe had seen this time. The murals were as amazing as ever, and the cathedral as over-opulent as ever. But I did see two interesting little things on our walk back to check out from the hotel.

    First was a "voluntary arms surrender", where the military will render your firearm inoperable. Though no one thinks it would ever work in US, I read that the people most responsible are the women, who turn in the guns belonging to the men in the family. Seems worth a try if we could ever get the political will.

    Second was a shoe shine stand only for police. Bye to Mexico City, it has been a wonderful visit. Off to Cuernavaca.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 9

    Last full day in Mexico City

    January 26, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    Well, of all the things to do in Mexico City, the one place that seems most appropriate for a return visit is the Museo de Antropología. Joe wanted to go, understandably, so we took the morning to see it. Once again, I left without a real clear idea of the difference between the Toltecas, the Olmecas, the Mexicas, etc, but in awe of all the beautiful things they made and built. It is just an amazing museum.

    For the afternoon, we walked up to the Castle of Chapultapec, where we saw the living quarters of the Emperor Maximilian and Empress Carlota. Plus we got a good dose of the history of the US storming of the castle and the bravery of the cadets (Child Heroes they are called) who tried to defend the castle in vain. Mexico gave up half of its total territory to end the hostilities -- I wonder if they would like to take Texas back? There was a quote from Ulysses Grant describing the American invasion as the most unjust action our military had ever undertaken.

    I just realized this is the only time I have been in a major city in any country and have not taken ANY public transportation. Only Uber. We were going to take a bus to Cuernavaca this afternoon, but Uber is so cheap and so quick, I have totally sold out my principles.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 7

    South to Coyoacan

    January 24, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Trotsky, Frida Kahlo, and Diego de Rivera, the trio we focused on today. First stop, the house where Trotsky was living in exile when the Stalinists killed him. Really learned a lot in the video, and it was sad to see how the family had to live in what was essentially a bunker, only to have an insider take an ice pick to Trotsky's head.

    From there, it was a short 5 or 6 blocks to Frida Kahlo's house. Beautiful place, with lots of her things (including her wheel chairs, back braces and many dresses. Many of her personal effects have only been seen recently, because of Rivera's wishes that rooms be kept sealed for 50 (?) years. The house has a beautiful garden, and there was a special exhibit of many of the traditional dresses she wore. It's one of the most visited sites in Mexico City!

    Since Coyoacán used to be its own little town, it comes complete with square, markets, and a really peaceful vibe. We had a great lunch at a place recommended to me, Danzantes. Their terrace abuts one of the tree-filled squares. If you go, by all means eat an Hoja Santa, made with some sort of local leaves, stuffed with queso blanco and green sauce and a terrific spice combination. Joe had a Mexican style risotto, also very good. Too much food but we are loving it.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 7

    Another day in the Centro

    January 24, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    Joe's plane arrived late on Monday night, due to delays and cancellations, but he was in the hotel by 11 or thereabouts. Yesterday we spent in the Centro Histórico, visiting some of the main places I had saved till his arrival. First was the trip through the Templo Mayor, whose excavation took a big jump in the 80s when some buildings had to be destroyed because of earthquake damage. Though you can see a lot of the ruins by walking on public paths, paying the 70 pesos is definitely worth it. The walk is much more up close and personal and through parts not visible from above, and then there is also the museum. Great museum.

    After that we headed over to the Palacio de Bellas Artes (art deco inside with an indigenous twist!) where we went to a special exhibit on major painters' use of a special Mexican red paint pigment, called the grana cochinilla. Velazquez, Rubens, Joshua Reynolds, Van Gogh, Titian, all had works exhibited. But the main point was the murals, with all three of the triumverate represented. The most famous is Rivera's mural that went up in Rockefeller Center and then was destroyed because Rockefeller didn't like it. Theories as to why he did it include the fact that his father was a tea-totaller and is shown with a martini, but the more likely explanation seems to be the overwhelming marxist message. Rivera painted it again back in Mexico and there it is for all to see.

    After our gym/rest routine, we spent a few hours visiting churches, plazas, the usual tourist routine. Dinner in Azul Histórico, where we both had excellent fish, was a good way to end the day.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 5

    Pyramids!!!

    January 22, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Yesterday, I asked my Uber driver if he would be interested in driving me out to the Pyramids and back. Promptly at 7:30, his VW Passat was outside the hotel. By 8:45, I was walking through the enormous site at Teotihuacán. 5 hours was just barely enough, and I am a pretty fast walker! In addition to the temple of the Plumed Serpent, the Pyramid to the Moon, and the Pyramid to the Sun, there are tons more things to see and do, including a museum with the best frescoes from the site, another museum with artifacts and a model of the entire city as it existed when 85,000 people lived there, several palaces with more frescoes, altars, and underground caverns. It is truly overwhelming. The day was cloudless, not too hot, and the grounds were not too crowded. Just perfect.

    On the way out in the morning, I learned that Arturo is a law student, and that gave us plenty to talk about during the trip. This guy has a lot of drive and character, a 35 year old going back to school at age 32, and now just two years away from being a lawyer. Driving Uber is the best job he could hope for, he says, because it gives him all the flexibility he needs. When we got to the gate, Arturo confessed that he hadn't been to the Pyramids since he was 12, so I bought him a ticket too. We both went our own way and compared notes on the way home. Based on this sample of 2, I would say most people come away slack-jawed.

    So if anyone needs a driver in Mexico City, let me know because I have Arturo's email and phone numbers -- much better for him if you set it up privately, like I did for the pyramids.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 4

    Moving to the Centro Historico

    January 21, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    My three amigas had to head home, so I had the day to myself. First a couple of hours walking around the Condesa neighborhood. Seems that every single person in Mexico City is out and about on Sunday. In parks, on bikes, in playgrounds, eating street food. It was pretty lively!

    Around noon I got an Uber up to the Centro Histórico hotel -- had to move to a place with a gym, since I'll be here another week. Joe will arrive tomorrow early evening, and this place is really well located and comfortable in an old building. Hampton Inn, believe it or not!

    So, for the afternoon, I went to a few places that wouldn't necessarily be on the top of Joe's list. San Ildefonso, the first Jesuit school in Mexico, till they got kicked out of the country by Carlos III. There are some great murals in here (Rivera's first), and there was also an exhibit on Che's 7 months in Africa. Who knew?!

    Walking towards my next destination, I passed an open air Dali sculpture exhibit. I am not much of a Dali fan, but it was fun. In the Diego Rivera museum (built just to house one of his really beautiful murals when the building it was in collapsed), there was a Sunday afternoon piano concert in the mural room. Other rooms have photos and paintings from his trip to Russia. So I am getting my dose of lefties today. I guess Dalí balances that out.

    Last stop, Museo de Arte Popular, really super. Free on Sunday (as was the previous place) and though it's small, it has great displays, all really nicely done.

    Time to get a bite to eat and into bed early. I'm leaving for the pyramids at 7:30 in the morning.    Read more

  • Laurie ReynoldsMexico City 2018
    Day 3

    Chapultapec Park

    January 20, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Today we slept a little later, having gotten back from our foodie dinner extravaganza in Pujol around 1 am. We decided to spend the day in Chapultapec Park. First stop, the Archaeological Museum. ABSOLUTELY amazing. We wound up spending about 3 1/2 hours there, which is way above my normal museum saturation point. Since the museum is right in the park, we spent several hours there. It was a very lively spot, lots of families, groups of friends, young and old. We just soaked it in and were surprised at how few foreigners seemed to be enjoying this place. Late lunch at the taquería recommended by our B and B -- El Califa. Excellent tacos, and they have a few spots around the city, so I may be back!

    What a great city. I guess we will have to find a way to fit another meal in our bellies, but it is going to be a tight squeeze.    Read more

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