Summer’21 Spanish Road Trip

August - September 2021
A 20-day adventure by Sarah Read more
  • 18footprints
  • 1countries
  • 20days
  • 97photos
  • 6videos
  • 808miles
  • Day 19

    Day 19- Last Day

    August 31, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    On a whim we looked at a house for sale in Frigiliana today. It was too good to be true- the noise from the motorway was ridiculous!

    We are enjoying the weather and ambiance here. We stomped around Nerja after our Covid tests (needed for travel tomorrow) discovering an English book store in the process. We also stumbled across a temporary glass exhibit in the art museum. Curt and Marilyn are planning to visit Nerja in January, we’re excited to show them around!

    We couldn’t leave without one last swim in the sea this afternoon. Fortunately we avoided the “medusas” (jellyfish) that several folks were shouting about while we were there.

    Beaches here would surprise the average American, 30% of the women are topless and thongs are still popular with the under 30’s. In general, Spain is very open to nudity https://english.elpais.com/spain/life/2021-08-3…

    We celebrated our last night here with Long Island Iced Teas at a local watering hole and then an incredible meal at No. 20 in La Herradura. Paul got a tour of the restaurant from the owner; Covid hit start-ups so hard! The food and service were excellent! We will definitely be back!
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  • Day 18

    Day 18- Beach Day

    August 30, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    A “chiringuito” is a small beach-side restaurant or bar selling mainly drinks, tapas, and seafood (and of course, the ubiquitous goat cheese salad). The decor is a cross between safari lodge and tiki hut; you might even see straw hats hanging upside down from the ceiling!

    They usually rent out lounge chairs under thatched umbrellas. In many places, chiringuitos are temporary structures that are collapsed in late October and don’t appear again until April, weather and tourism depending!

    We seem to be working our way through all of them here in La Herradura, whether for a “clara con limón” or a larger meal. The weather is fantastic and the water even better (the wind dropped and we were able to swim today). The gray stone pebble beach can’t compare to the white sand beaches we are used to in the States, but the view compensates. We are determined to squeeze the most of our last 36 hours!

    “Tinto de verano” is another summer drink we are also enjoying. It’s basically red wine and lemon soda (yes, there’s a reoccurring theme of adding lemon soda to drinks in the summer here in Spain!)
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  • Day 17

    Day 17- La Herradura

    August 29, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We’ve moved down to the coast for our remaining 3 days! It was hard to leave the magical La Posada Morisca but we wanted some beach days before heading to the States.

    The view from the top of the hotel is terrific (the inner courtyard is also pretty!) We had a late brunch, walked around the town, and then shared some tasty “almejas” in a fun chiringuito on the beach.

    We were spoiled by an incredible sunset view for tonight’s cribbage game. Life is good!
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  • Day 16

    Day 16- La Herradura and Almuńecar

    August 28, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    We were curious about the town of La Herradura so this was our first stop this morning even though we’ll be moving down there on Sunday.

    Earliest records show that the name “Jate” was used to refer to this small beach town; Jate meaning "shore". Records from 1526 show the current name, of Castilian origin, refers to the horseshoe shape of its bay (la herradura means horseshoe).

    La Herradura is part of the larger municipality of Almuñécar and we discovered why this is called the Costa Tropical! Beautiful palm-lined streets and beaches add to the charm of this small city.

    We had an early dinner back at our hotel again (the food is excellent - we split an avocado and shrimp salad, steak, and off-diet dessert of brownies with avocado ice cream!

    Not a bad view for coffee and cribbage!
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  • Day 15

    Day 15- Wandering Frigiliana

    August 27, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We stomped around Frigiliana today.
    Recognized as "Spain's most beautiful and well-preserved village”, this charming town of roughly 3,000 people is only 20 minutes from the beach. Note the mosaic stone carpets that serve as runners for the steep cobbled alleyways winding past the white village houses!

    During non-Covid times, Frigiliana hosts the Festival of the Three Cultures (Festival de las Tres Culturas), celebrating the region's historic confluence and co-existence of Christian, Muslim and Jewish traditions.

    We enjoyed a late dinner back at our hotel! The avocado theme works!
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  • Day 14

    Day 14- Out and about in Southern Spain

    August 26, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    We are taking it a bit slower now and enjoying the milder coastal weather. We are staying in a boutique avocado-themed hotel / restaurant with only eight rooms. The view of Frigiliana at night is magical!

    We are happy to be in Andalusia, and enjoying the best olive oil in Spain! There’s a huge difference in flavor depending on the olive… our favorite is the flavorful arbequina!

    Have we told you about Paul’s favorite shoes? Yes, these loafers are ten euros a pair and are super comfortable (after adding a foam insert). He now has at least six pairs in various colors!

    We have had a lot of excellent Spanish food and tapas over the past few weeks and today we were looking for something completely different! Frigiliana is large enough to support several different ethnic restaurants and tonight’s choice was Indian. (Sorry, no pics, we were too hungry!)
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  • Day 13

    Day 12 & 13- Gaucin to Frigiliana

    August 25, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    After a 4+ hour drive from Úbeda, Sarah dropped Brie off and we caught up with old friends in Gaucin for one night! It was hazy and then cloudy in Gaucín (with a surprise shower bringing dinner on an outdoor terrace to an abrupt end).

    Food plays an important part in Spanish life, with lunch (la comida) the biggest meal of the day, often lasting from 2 to 4pm. It is common for shops and whole villages to come to a standstill for the afternoon meal and siesta, especially in more out-of-the-way towns. Spanish lunch and dinner times are later than in many other countries. Lunch is typically a large meal, with a starter, a main dish, and dessert. Evening meals, which often start as late as 10pm, are usually a much lighter fare.

    We’re off to Frigiliana on Wednesday afternoon.

    The photo shows the view of Frigiliana from our hotel. We’ll investigate the town tomorrow.
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  • Day 11

    Day 11- Úbeda

    August 23, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    After 11 days of travel we needed to pause and do some laundry, planning, and office work this morning. It was also 95 degrees in the shade, so we didn’t venture out to nearby towns.

    One thing that has caught our attention here are the beautiful stone mosaic “carpets” everywhere. We are calling them carpets for want of a better word.

    After a wander to the top architectural sites, we had lunch at a shady gastrobar! We have a 4 hour drive to Gaucin tomorrow (Sarah is dropping Brie off in Tessorillo) so tonight will be an early one.
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  • Day 10

    Day 10- Back to Andalucia

    August 22, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Having circumnavigated Spain in the past year, it is great to be back in Andalucía, where we landed in 2015 after six years in Scotland. We write this from Úbeda, a white village north of Granada, where we have decided to spend two days. Sadly, we decided to pass on Cuenca for now just to slow down the pace a bit. We definitely want to visit Cuenca at some point in the future!

    Today was a travel day, the 3+ hour drive south from Cercedilla taking up a good portion of the day. On the way out of town this morning we stopped at an antique fair. Thankfully we were pressed for time or we would have rolled out of there like the Clampitts on their way to Beverley Hills!

    Arriving Úbeda on a Sunday afternoon, we had planned ahead (making a reservation 2 days in advance), and had a late lunch at Antique Restaurante, the top restaurant in town (making up for yesterday’s failure!) It was an A++ all around!

    Recent archaeological findings indicate a pre-Roman settlement in Úbeda. We have an apartment in the town center with a classic interior courtyard.

    After a brief hiccup with a lost apartment key, we settled in and enjoyed a late vermouth on a picturesque plaza around the corner from our rental. We are looking forward to exploring Úbeda and possibly nearby Baeza tomorrow!
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  • Day 9

    Day 9- A Day in Segovia

    August 21, 2021 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Segovia boasts the most impressive collection of historic buildings on this trip so far! The disneyesque Alcázar, the Segovia Cathedral, and the Roman aqueduct bridge (see video) are all jaw-dropping and it’s no surprise that the latter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s one of the best preserved aqueducts in the world; the date of construction is thought to be sometime between 86-117 AD. If you aren’t currently a fan of aqueducts, the sight of this one will change your mind!

    We planned ahead this time and had tickets to tour the Alcázar and climb the 152 steps to the top of the Torre de Juan II, named for the king who commissioned this impressive addition. Despite the 90 degree heat, it was well worth the effort for a panoramic view of the city!

    The story of this castle dates back to the beginning of Moorish rule. The Moors constructed their “Alcázars" or strongholds in a number of places in today's Spain and Portugal. It is unknown exactly when this castle or fortress was built, but it was sometime between the 7th and 9th century. The photo collage below showcases the throne room, a turret, the ornate wooden ceiling of a large ballroom, a Rapunzel-like view from the keep, and a stained glass window in the chapel.

    Segovia falls in one of Spain’s regions where regardless of what you order to drink, you will always receive a tapas with it. So our coffees this morning came with small Spanish omelette sandwiches. Later, when we stopped for two “Claras con limón” (one part Spanish beer and one part lemon soda), we received a plate of mini-mystery sausages. Lunch was a bit of a fail (saved by a mango sorbet) as we hadn’t made reservations (mandatory on a Saturday in Segovia in August).

    We’re off to Andalucía tomorrow!
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