Reset search
Speak, World
Speak, World

Speak, World

On this platform, my “footprints” are postcards to my friends. My home is the country I am in! I am committed to learning its language, and as much as possible about it, while maintaining great curiosity, a sense of humor and increasing acceptance. Read more🇺🇸Alexandria
FollowMessageStatistics
  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    Al Azhar Mosque
    Hussein MosqueMint tea!Falafel and Egyptian breadDown from Damietta for the dayNational Museum of Islamic ArtAn old stately home contrasted with a modern apartment blockTahrir StreetAhmed Amin Street (mine)

    Old Cairo: Fondly Remembered Mosques

    November 13 in Egypt ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    En ingles y español:
    I began a nostalgic exploration of my Cairo of 39 years ago on November 9. I went to the holiest mosque, that of El Azhar, in the great complex of El Azhar University, a world center for Islamic studies. It has a stunning internal square, paved with pure white marble tiles, which are replaced every year. Then, nearby, was Al Hussein Mosque, where I went to the women’s prayer area. This is a particular favorite for foreign Muslim women, who were hard to match for pure piety.

    I rested afterwards in a small street restaurant, with mint tea and falafel. So delicious! There I had a friendly meeting with two friends down to Cairo for the day from Damietta, a large city in the Nile Delta. Khan El Khalili is a giant market maze nearby, and I skirted the edges. The salespeople were so tenacious in their invitations to enter their small shops that I didn’t dare take any pictures!

    My final stop was the National Museum of Islamic Art, which I didn’t visit 39 years ago. A lovely place with rooms of lanterns, ceramics, calligraphy, arms, etc., which also showed the history of each category, though briefly. I was with a guided tour in English given by a museum volunteer, along with a family from India. Afterwards, I went back to look at my favorite works.

    The two videos at the end show the ultra-busy Tahrir Street (note the couple crossing lanes of oncoming traffic) and my street, parallel to Tahrir, one block up: so serene and quiet.

    El Viejo Cairo: Mezquitas Queridas y Más
    Empecé una exploración nostálgica de mi Cairo de hace 39 años el 9 de noviembre. Fui a la mezquita más sagrada, la de El Azhar, dentro del gran complejo de la Universidad de El Azhar, un centro mundial de estudios islámicos. Tiene un patio interno impresionante, pavimentado con losas de mármol blanco puro, que se reemplazan cada año. Luego, muy cerca, estaba la Mezquita Al Hussein, donde entré al área de oración para mujeres. Es una favorita especial entre mujeres musulmanas extranjeras, que eran difíciles de igualar en pura piedad.
    Después descansé en un pequeño restaurante de calle, con un té de menta y falafel. ¡Deliciosísimo! Tuve un encuentro muy agradable con dos amigas que bajaron a El Cairo por el día desde Damietta, una ciudad grande en el Delta del Nilo. Khan El Khalili es un enorme laberinto de mercados cerca de ahí, y yo sólo bordeé los alrededores. Los vendedores eran tan tenaces en sus invitaciones a entrar a sus tienditas que ¡ni me atreví a tomar fotos!
    Mi última parada fue el Museo Nacional de Arte Islámico, que no visité hace 39 años. Es un lugar encantador, con salas de linternas, cerámica, caligrafía, armas, etc., que también mostraban la historia de cada categoría, aunque brevemente. Fui con una visita guiada en inglés ofrecida por una voluntaria del museo, junto con una familia de la India. Después, regresé para ver mis piezas favoritas.
    Los dos videos al final muestran la ultra concurrida calle Tahrir (fíjate en la pareja cruzando los carriles del tráfico que viene de frente) y mi calle, paralela a Tahrir, a una cuadra: ¡tan serena y tranquila!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World

    Cairo after 39 Years

    November 8 in Egypt ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    An Apartment in Dokki (written Nov. 7-8)
    En inglés y español
    I arrived in Cairo five days ago, on November 3rd, and settled into a “desirable” part of the city called “Dokki.” Kathy Kamphoefner, my friend from 39 years ago, came to Cairo International Airport at 6:30 pm to meet me. In the hour-long nighttime drive to Dokki, I saw a different Cairo: gleaming, shining, huge, inviting—with enormous buildings covered in neon. When we arrived at 4 Ahmed Amin Street, we took the elevator to my 5th floor efficiency apartment, I put the luggage on the bed, and we kept our reunion catch-up going until 1 am!

    In the daytime of November 4th, I ventured out in the afternoon along Tahrir Street, a main thoroughfare, to buy food. I passed the Dokki metro station; 40 years ago, the very first station was being built, and now there are 3 lines with 84 stations! I soon found the neighborhood market street, 10 blocks long, and I could buy all needed household and personal supplies, plus my staple vegetables, fruits, salt, and cooking oil. It was the Cairo of 40 years ago, but the street was paved, and the garbage was swept up neatly for the daily collection, instead of being strewn in the street.

    In the following four days, I did the daily food shopping, ventured out alone one mere kilometer toward the city center (I was afraid and intimidated to go out at first!) studied Arabic like crazy in my apartment, and got mentally and physically settled. I also met Kathy and her husband Paul for breakfast one day, earsYears
    in which I received a gentle orientation to present-day Cairo.

    November 8, I joined Kathy for a luncheon meeting of a recently-formed ex-pat group of ladies in their 60’s and 70’s in beautiful Azhar Park, bordering on the famed Islamic University of El Azhar, and the heart of Old Cairo. Somehow I couldn’t relate what I saw to the Cairo of 40 years ago. At all. I wondered how I could possibly have felt it all so familiar way back then. And how could I get re-acquainted? That will be in the next blog post!

    Please enjoy the photos. The one video shows what it’s like to be surrounded by adolescents who were all dying to talk to us and have their photo taken with us. They had to be chased away by park security, eventually…

    Llegué a El Cairo hace cinco días, el 3 de noviembre, y me instalé en una zona “deseable” de la ciudad llamada Dokki. Kathy Kamphoefner, mi amiga de hace 39 años, vino a buscarme al Aeropuerto Internacional de El Cairo a las seis y media de la tarde. En el trayecto nocturno de una hora hacia Dokki, vi un Cairo diferente: brillante, reluciente, enorme, atractivo… con edificios gigantes cubiertos de luces de neón. Cuando llegamos al número 4 de la calle Ahmed Amin, subimos en el ascensor hasta mi pequeño apartamento en el quinto piso. Puse el equipaje sobre la cama y seguimos poniéndonos al día hasta la una de la madrugada.

    Durante el día, el 4 de noviembre, salí por la tarde a la calle Tahrir, una avenida principal, para comprar comida. Pasé por la estación de metro de Dokki; hace 40 años estaban construyendo la primera estación, ¡y ahora hay tres líneas con 84 estaciones! Pronto encontré la calle del mercado del barrio, de unas diez cuadras, donde pude comprar todo lo necesario para la casa y para mí, además de mis básicos: verduras, frutas, sal y aceite de cocina. Era el Cairo de hace 40 años, pero ahora la calle estaba pavimentada, y la basura se recogía ordenadamente para la limpieza diaria, en vez de estar tirada por todas partes.

    En los cuatro días siguientes, hice las compras diarias de comida, me aventuré sola apenas un kilómetro hacia el centro (¡al principio tenía miedo y me sentía intimidada al salir!), estudié árabe como loca en mi apartamento, y logré establecerme mental y físicamente. También me reuní con Kathy y su esposo Paul para desayunar un día, y recibí de ellos una amable orientación sobre el Cairo actual.

    El 8 de noviembre me uní a Kathy para un almuerzo con un grupo de recién formadas expatriadas, todas mujeres de entre sesenta y setenta años, en el precioso Parque Azhar, que bordea la famosa Universidad Islámica de El Azhar y el corazón del Viejo Cairo. De alguna manera, no podía relacionar lo que veía con el Cairo de hace cuarenta años. En absoluto. Me preguntaba cómo era posible que todo me hubiera resultado tan familiar en aquel entonces. ¿Y cómo podría volver a reencontrarme con esa ciudad? ¡Eso lo contaré en el próximo blog!

    Disfruta las fotos. En el video se puede ver cómo es estar rodeada de adolescentes que morían por hablar con nosotras y tomarse fotos con nosotras. Al final, el personal de seguridad del parque tuvo que dispersarlos…    Read more

  • Speak, WorldEgypt Revisited After 39 YearsSpeak, World
    1The terrace on the 6th floor of my Cairo apartment
    1Egyptian cats are pharaonic! Note the tall ears and triangular faces1My standard vegetable mix, with local traditional breadThe Nile, facing north, at the tip of the island of ZamalekThe Cairo Opera house, built by the Japanese during my stay 39 years agoIn beautiful Al Azhar ParkI started speaking VERY ELEMENTARY Arabic from the start, trying to stick with only ladiesA group of young students who wanted to speak with us--small at first, but grew alarmingly!With my friend from long ago, Kathy Kamphoefner3Setting up Arabic study in a cafe overlooking the Nile

    An apartment in Dokki

    November 3 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I arrived in Cairo five days ago, on November 3rd, and settled into a “desirable” part of the city called “Dokki.” Kathy Kamphoefner, my friend from 39 years ago, came to Cairo International Airport at 6:30 pm to meet me. In the hour-long nighttime drive to Dokki, I saw a different Cairo: gleaming, shining, huge, inviting—with enormous buildings covered in neon. When we arrived at 4 Ahmed Amin Street, we took the elevator to my 5th floor efficiency apartment, I put the luggage on the bed, and we kept our reunion catch-up going until 1 am!

    In the daytime of November 4th, I ventured out in the afternoon along Tahrir Street, a main thoroughfare, to buy food. I passed the Dokki Metro Station; 40 years ago, the very first station was being built, and now there are 3 lines with 84 stations! I soon found the neighborhood market street, 10 blocks long, and I could buy all needed household and personal supplies, plus my staple vegetables, fruits, salt, and cooking oil. It was the Cairo of 40 years ago, but the street was paved, and the garbage was swept up neatly for the daily collection, instead of being strewn in the street.

    In the following four days, I did the daily food shopping, ventured out alone one mere kilometer toward the city center (I was afraid and intimidated to go out at first!) studied Arabic like crazy in my apartment, and got mentally and physically settled. I also met Kathy and her husband Paul for breakfast one day,
    in which I received a first gentle orientation to present-day Cairo.

    November 8, I joined Kathy for a luncheon meeting of a recently-formed group of ex-pat ladies in their 60’s and 70’s in beautiful Azhar Park, bordering on the famed Islamic University of El Azhar, and the heart of Old Cairo. Somehow I couldn’t relate what I saw to the Cairo of 40 years ago. At all. I wondered how I could possibly have felt it all so familiar way back then. And how could I get re-acquainted? That will be in the next blog post!

    Please enjoy the photos. The one video shows what it’s like to be surrounded by adolescents who were all dying to talk to us and have their photo taken with us. They had to be chased away by park security, eventually…    Read more

  • Speak, WorldItaliano a Roma 2025Speak, World

    A Drawing Gallery of Italians

    November 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    En inglés y español
    ITALIANI: DRAWINGS OF ITALIANS!
    In a small piazza in Trastevere, Piazza San Egidio, I saw an arresting portrait of Sofia Loren, publicizing an exhibit inside. I passed by several times on my way to other places, thinking it would be very expensive. One day, I stopped, went inside, and was told that it was free.

    The NYC Culture Club organized it, so that the artist, Salvatore Catalano, could have an exhibit there. He is a multi-faceted artist, living both in
    Florence and in the United States, very busy, and very inventive. I like drawings, so I spent a pleasant hour with these portraits. I especially liked how Mr. Catalano found a quote from most of his subjects, which you can see at the bottom of their portraits. Here is his website, if you’re interested: https://www.salvatorejcatalano.com/about

    ITALIANOS: ¡DIBUJOS DE ITALIANOS!
    En una placita chiquita en Trastevere, la Piazza San Egidio, vi un retrato impresionante de Sofía Loren que anunciaba una exposición adentro. Pasé por ahí varias veces camino a otros lugares, pensando que seguramente era muy cara. Un día me detuve, entré, y me dijeron que era gratis.

    La exposición la organizó el NYC Culture Club, para que el artista Salvatore Catalano pudiera exhibir su trabajo ahí. Es un artista muy versátil, que vive entre Florencia y Estados Unidos —súper ocupado y muy creativo. A mí me encantan los dibujos, así que pasé una hora muy agradable viendo esos retratos. Me gustó especialmente cómo el señor Catalano encontró una frase de la mayoría de las personas retratadas, que aparece al pie de sus retratos.

    Aquí está su sitio web, por si te interesa:
    https://www.salvatorejcatalano.com/about    Read more

  • Speak, WorldItaliano a Roma 2025Speak, World
    A Roman crow--oh so intelligent!
    Another of my delicious "meal of the day" with fine ingredientsLooking fine for HalloweenA fine building in Trastevere, a ministry of something that I forgot to noteMiddle school girls on their way homeMy BEST CONVERSATION OF THE MONTH. The two ladies are sisters, 92 and 93, accompanied by a friendMY CAFÈ, the Camerino. Pastries made in situ. The begging dog eventually gets a pieceMy other cafe, better for studyingThe foam topping a cappuccino is ultra creamyTripas a la romana. Ultra tender, with an excellent crushed tomato sauce1Such lovely parmigiano reggiano at my local grocery store. 29.50 euros a kilo.

    Rome Agrees With Me

    November 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    En inglés y español
    (Nov. 2, 2025)
    I must say that I was contented nearly all the time I’ve been in Rome. The October weather was lovely, the city streets were walkable, and always interesting. People I met along the way were courteous, friendly, and interested. I was happy with what I was doing with my language studies and explorations, I was pleased by the generally purposeful yet relaxed atmosphere, and I was happy that I was in Europe!

    The last time I was in Europe was in 2018, in Portugal, and before that, in 2012, in England and Spain. My greatest and longest stay was 1980-86, in London. So it has been very agreeable to be back. Here in Rome, I notice that (through listening around) there is an openness to communication and congeniality. Friends meet up in the cafes, chat animatedly, eat a lot of pastries, and drink many aperitifs. There is an air of culture on the streets, with many poles papered with schedules for seasons of theaters, of opera, and of concerts in the park. Men meet with men friends. Older people are on the arms of younger family members. Once a nearly blind woman asked to take my arm to cross a massive street. It was a sweet and companionable moment.

    Enjoy the photos!


    (escrito el 2 de noviembre de 2025)
    Debo decir que estaba contenta casi todo el tiempo que estuve en Roma. El clima de octubre fue encantador, las calles de la ciudad eran caminables y siempre interesantes. La gente que conocí por el camino era amable, simpática y curiosa. Estaba feliz con lo que estaba haciendo con mis estudios de idiomas y mis exploraciones, me complacía la atmósfera generalmente intencionada pero relajada, ¡y me alegraba estar en Europa!
    La última vez que estuve en Europa fue en 2018, en Portugal, y antes de eso, en 2012, en Inglaterra y España. Mi estancia más larga y significativa fue de 1980 a 1986, en Londres. Así que ha sido muy agradable estar de vuelta. Aquí en Roma, noto (al escuchar a mi alrededor) que hay una apertura a la comunicación y la cordialidad. Los amigos se encuentran en los cafés, charlan animadamente, comen muchos pasteles y beben muchos aperitivos. Hay un aire de cultura en las calles, con muchos postes cubiertos con horarios de temporadas de teatros, de ópera y de conciertos en el parque. Los hombres se juntan con amigos hombres. Las personas mayores van del brazo de familiares más jóvenes. Una vez, una mujer casi ciega me pidió que le tomara del brazo para cruzar una calle enorme. Fue un momento dulce y de compañía.
    ¡Disfruta las fotos!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldItaliano a Roma 2025Speak, World
    The Roman Museum in Trastevere: photos of town festivals
    The National Roman Museum, sepulcher of a battle against the barbariansExplanationTwo views of "Hermaphrodite"The Tiber River looking south to the industrial area of OstienseThe Centrale Montemartini: excavated art and early 20th century steam power plantThis artist/archaeologist drew and painted the excavations extensivelyCentrale Montemartini

    ROME WEEK 3: EXPLORING ROME MY OWN WAY

    October 20 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    En inglés y español

    This trip, I had a definite repugnant reaction against going sightseeing. Part of it was a reaction to an adulthood (55 years) of constant museums, excavations, (formerly known as “ruins”) galleries, and historic places in and outside of cities. Another part was the frantic crowding, lining up, trillions of selfies, and monotonous bucket lists of the phalanxes of tourists that are every day in Rome—especially in the particularly lovely October weather.

    So, for more than half of my stay, I went out walking every day, binoculars around my neck, exploring some of Rome’s “riones,” historic administrative districts. Streets and sections of Monteverde, my neighborhood, Trastevere, Borgo, Colonna, Testaccio, Ostiense, and Flaminio. These walks were filled with centuries of architecture, in the midst of modern Rome.

    Then, I decided to go to offbeat, off the desperate tourist list, to a few very beautiful places, and one definitely weird one. The Museum of Rome in Trastevere had dioramas from the 1930’s, depicting the 1850’s, with giant papier mâché figures: in a post office, a wine shop, etc.—all quite dusty and cracking with age. Neapolitan presepe techniques did not stretch to Rome. But it did have a series of lovely watercolors of Trastevere on the walls opposite the dioramas, painted by a German artist. On the ground floor were four photographers’ exhipits, capturing various Italian village festivals

    The National Roman Museum in the Palazzo Massimo gave me the breathtaking Greek-influenced sculptural art of Rome before Christ. The Centrale Montemartini had equally astonishing sculptures, that were from various centuries, found under the grounds of a huge steam power plant. The museum incorporates both the art and the industrial works in the same space, which was extremely odd, but beautiful and geographically truthful.

    The MAXXI, National Museum of Contemporary Art and Architecture, was designed by Zaha Hadid. The building itself was the main attraction for me, and the current exhibit showing the world history of stadium building was my favorite show.
    I hope you enjoy the photos!

    EXPLORANDO ROMA A MI MANERA

    En este viaje, sentí un rechazo total hacia la idea de hacer turismo tradicional. En parte fue una reacción a toda una vida adulta (¡55 años!) llena de museos, excavaciones (antes llamadas “ruinas”), galerías y lugares históricos dentro y fuera de las ciudades. Y en parte también fue por el agobio de las multitudes, las filas interminables, los trillones de selfies, y las listas aburridas de “cosas que ver” que siguen en masa los turistas que invaden Roma todos los días—sobre todo con este clima tan lindo de octubre.

    Así que, durante más de la mitad de mi estancia, salí a caminar todos los días, con los binoculares colgados al cuello, explorando algunos de los “rioni” de Roma, los antiguos barrios administrativos. Calles y zonas de Monteverde, mi vecindario, Trastevere, Borgo, Colonna, Testaccio, Ostiense y Flaminio. En esas caminatas me rodeaban siglos de arquitectura, mezclados con la Roma moderna.

    Después decidí ir a lugares raros, fuera de las rutas turísticas desesperadas, a unos sitios realmente hermosos y a uno definitivamente extraño. El Museo de Roma en Trastevere tenía dioramas de los años 30 que mostraban escenas de los 1850s, con figuras gigantes de papel maché: en una oficina de correos, en una taberna, etc.—todo bastante polvoriento y resquebrajado por la edad. Las técnicas napolitanas de los “presepi” no se extendieron a Roma. Pero en frente de esos dioramas había una serie preciosa de acuarelas de Trastevere, pintadas por un artista alemán. En la planta baja, cuatro exposiciones de fotografía mostraban distintas fiestas de pueblos italianos.

    El Museo Nacional Romano, en el Palazzo Massimo, me dejó sin aliento con su arte escultórico romano influenciado por los griegos, de la época anterior a Cristo. El Centrale Montemartini también me impresionó: tenía esculturas asombrosas de varios siglos, descubiertas bajo los terrenos de una enorme planta de energía a vapor. El museo combina las obras de arte y las máquinas industriales en el mismo espacio—una mezcla rarísima, pero hermosa y muy fiel al lugar.

    El MAXXI, el Museo Nacional de Arte y Arquitectura Contemporánea, fue diseñado por Zaha Hadid. El edificio en sí fue lo que más me atrajo, y la exposición actual, que mostraba la historia mundial de la construcción de estadios, fue mi favorita.

    ¡Espero que disfruten las fotos!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldItaliano a Roma 2025Speak, World
    This photo is for my leather worker friend in Oaxaca to copy
    The title: How to Become Assholes and Be Loved"With Luca LamparielloWith Andrea Lise and her dog ArchieLuca's post in Smart Language Learning AcademyAt Caffè Letterario for the couch surfing event1How gelato is made!!Why I'm not a tourist: Trevi Fountain in central Rome

    Rome Week 2: Breakthroughs!

    October 15 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    (En español e inglés)
    In the course of long walks and intense cafe study sessions, the awaited breakthroughs occurred. The first was the surrender on the part of my Spanish to finally not interfering with my Italian. The second was hearing Italian in my head as I passed through my day outside of my apartment. These breakthroughs happened simultaneously on October 13, a very significant day.

    On this day, Andrea Lise, my Italian-learning friend from California, and I, met with Luca Lampariello for dinner. Luca is a world-famous polyglot (14 languages and counting) and language-study coach. Andrea and I met on his internet platform, “Smart Language Learning Academy.”

    Dinner was at a local well-loved restaurant, “L’antica Roma.” In the course of several hours, we spoke only Italian, with Luca never slowing down his zippy Roman-accented speech. It was at times utterly hilarious—and a literal banquet of Italian!

    The next day Luca posted a description of our meeting with a very complimentary post on his Smart Language platform (see photos) which received many comments from other members of the Academy. Also, he invited me to accompany him and his roommate to a “Couch Surfing” event at “Libreria Letteraria,” a bookstore/event place located not far from our apartments. After “language teaching sessions” at 5-6 tables—including French, Italian, Spanish, etc.—there was just a group of 35-40 people milling around, being sociable, and speaking different languages with each other. It was similar to language Meet-Ups in the States I used to go to, but much warmer and friendlier.

    After this, I was able to engage in much longer and deeper conversations with the people I met.

    Enjoy the photos! The one with the book cover let me start a conversation with two gentlemen who were also puzzling over the book’s title. (See the photo)

    ROMA SEMANA 2: ¡AVANCES!
    Durante mis largas caminatas y mis intensas sesiones de estudio en los cafés, ¡llegaron por fin los avances esperados!
    El primero fue que mi español, al fin, dejó de interferir con mi italiano.
    El segundo fue que empecé a escuchar el italiano en mi cabeza mientras pasaba el día fuera de mi apartamento.
    Estos dos avances ocurrieron al mismo tiempo, el 13 de octubre, un día muy significativo.

    Ese día, mi amiga californiana que también está aprendiendo italiano, Andrea Lise, y yo cenamos con Luca Lampariello.
    Luca es un políglota mundialmente famoso (habla 14 idiomas) y un profesor de aprendizaje de lenguas.
    Andrea y yo nos conocimos en su plataforma en línea “Smart Language Learning Academy”.

    Cenamos en un restaurante local muy querido, “L’antica Roma”. Durante varias horas hablamos solo en italiano, y Luca nunca bajó la velocidad de su rapidísimo italiano con acento romano. A veces fue absolutamente desternillante… ¡y un auténtico banquete de italiano!

    Al día siguiente, Luca publicó una descripción de nuestro encuentro en su plataforma Smart Language, con un mensaje muy halagador (ver fotos), que recibió muchos comentarios de otros miembros de la Academia.
    Además, me invitó a acompañarlo a un evento de “Couch Surfing” en “Libreria Letteraria”, una librería con espacio para eventos que queda cerca de nuestros apartamentos.

    Después de unas “sesiones de intercambio de idiomas” en 5 o 6 mesas —francés, italiano, español, etc.— el resto fue simplemente un grupo de 35 o 40 personas charlando, siendo sociables y hablando distintos idiomas entre sí. Era parecido a los “Meet-Ups” de idiomas a los que solía ir en Estados Unidos, pero mucho más cálido y amistoso.

    Después de eso, pude tener conversaciones mucho más largas y profundas con la gente que conocía.

    ¡Disfrutan las fotos! En una de ellas se ve la portada de un libro que me sirvió para empezar una conversación con dos señores que también estaban tratando de entender el título. (Ver la foto)    Read more

  • Speak, WorldItaliano a Roma 2025Speak, World
    A rare sight--a reader! Outside Bellas Artes
    A young man stopped to read the juvenile books he was sellingA common sight of wreckage and renovationProtection of historic buildings from city-wide protestsPre-Columbian rular whose name adorns many places all over MexicoTHE food of Mexican Independence, eaten the entire month of September: chiles en nogadaA block from my apartment: a used book store on Calle Donceles

    Prelude in Mexico City

    October 4 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    It was fun to spend a few days in Mexico City before going to Rome. It is vastly different from Oaxaca, in terms of area, population density, automobiles, and big-city atmosphere. It was my first time to stay in the Historic Center, only a few blocks from beautiful Bellas Artes, the lavish art nouveau/art deco performing arts center.

    Logically enough, I bought a concert ticket for the Sinfonica Nacional for my first night, which featured Shostokovich’s Eighth Symphony. It was beautifully performed, and quite moving. The second night I saw a Jean Genet play, “The Maids,” performed in Spanish at a small cultural center nearby. It was culturally enriching, as I read the play in English the next evening!

    During the four days I was there,, I wandered about, seeing interesting slices of Mexico City life, and relaxing before my trip to Europe.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldItaliano a Roma 2025Speak, World
    View of Rome from Trastevere, a neighborhood to the north of Monteverde, whwere I stayAlong the Tiber/Tevere River, heading northTypical statuary in Roman piazzasJews taken to concentration campsUpdatedRome has great public transportation!A concert hall made from a palazzo where I attended a cello concertShe was on her way to a wedding, with a leather coat! La Bella figura!The Botanical GardensA cactus from Mexico!A simple old rose, origin of all roses to comeAndrea from Luca Lampariello's Smart Language Learning AcademyIn front of St. Peter's SquareStudying in the afternoonVegetable pasta concoction for dinner

    Rome Week 1: Getting Situated

    October 2 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    (En español e inglés)My initial plan in coming to Rome for a month was to practice Italian. In 2024, I reviewed Italian for around 3 months, and went to Naples in December, for a month. Unfortunately I ended up not speaking much Italian at all, as I was speaking Spanish all the time with the Mexican archaeologist friend who accompanied me. So, after my surgery in late March of this year, I decided to spend the next 5 months reviewing and learning Italian and try again, in October 2025. The plan is working well: I am speaking Italian during my days here. BUT not so much. And there are many hours in the day.

    So I had to find an interesting approach to my days in this beautiful city. Every day after breakfast, I pick an important place to visit. I usually take public transportation halfway there, and walk the rest of the way. I always have my being alone, my binoculars at the ready, and my constant curiosity accompanying me, and voilà! I also find interesting people to talk to.

    The long walks become exhausting, so I stop for snacks and coffee in cafes along the way. There, I take out my Italian and Egyptian Arabic materials to study. When I get home to my Airbnb in the relaxed neighborhood of Monteverde, I cook a simple vegetable pasta, watch a film, read, and go to sleep. And so has passed my first week.
    Enjoy the photos!

    En español:
    ROMA SEMANA 1: ¡ADAPTÁNDOME!
    Mi plan inicial al venir a Roma por un mes era practicar italiano. En 2024 repasé italiano durante unos tres meses y en diciembre fui a Nápoles por un mes.

    Lamentablemente, terminé sin hablar casi nada de italiano, porque todo el tiempo hablaba en español con mi amiga arqueóloga mexicana que me acompañó.

    Así que, después de mi cirugía a finales de marzo de este año, decidí pasar los siguientes cinco meses repasando y aprendiendo italiano para intentarlo de nuevo en octubre de 2025.
    Y el plan va bastante bien: estoy hablando italiano durante mis días aquí… PERO no tanto como quisiera. Y el día tiene muchas horas.

    Así que tuve que buscar una forma interesante de pasar mis días en esta hermosa ciudad. Cada mañana después del desayuno, elijo un lugar importante para visitar.
    Normalmente tomo el transporte público hasta la mitad del camino y el resto lo hago caminando. Siempre voy con mi soledad, mis binoculares listos y mi curiosidad constante, ¡y voilà! También termino encontrando gente interesante con quien charlar.

    Las caminatas largas son agotadoras, así que me detengo para picar algo o tomar un café en los bares por el camino.
    Allí saco mis materiales de italiano y árabe egipcio para estudiar.
    Cuando vuelvo a mi Airbnb, en el tranquilo barrio de Monteverde, cocino una pasta sencilla con verduras, veo una peli, leo un rato y me voy a dormir.
    Y así ha pasado mi primera semana.

    ¡Disfrutan las fotos!    Read more

  • Speak, World1. Beginning to Draw AgainSpeak, World
    2

    #3. April 21 to June 14, 2023

    June 14, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    In this latest part of this Udemy course, “The Complete Drawing Masterclass,” I’m drawing “portrait parts,” i.e., eyes, ears, noses, mouths, and hair. Then there are a few subjects of my own: a little dog, a stuffed goat head, and “souvenirs” of my left knee injury: a crutch and my knee injury, as seen from a view of the ligaments.

    Dates and explanations are on each picture.    Read more

  • Speak, World1. Beginning to Draw AgainSpeak, World
    2One of my own drawings outside of the course. I didn't know how to do perspective.2

    #2. March 28 to May 3, 2023

    May 3, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    This is what I’ve studied in my online “Complete Drawing Masterclass, lectures 56 to 100
    1. Applying value: hatching, cross-hatching and the “reductive method.”
    2. Drawing in one- and two-point perspective.
    3. The blocking-in method of drawing
    4. A few drawings of my own

    Dates and explanations are on each picture.    Read more

  • Speak, World1. Beginning to Draw AgainSpeak, World

    #1 February 19 to March 26, 2023

    March 26, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    I am definitely doing a different kind of “trip” here: after a 24-year hiatus, I decided to start drawing again, and I wanted to keep a “diary” of my progress. Therefore, every “trip” here is a course or a topic, and every “footprint” in the trip will be my drawings. All will be in chronological order so I can keep track of my progress, and so can you.

    This first class of “Beginning to Draw Again” is called “The Complete Drawing Masterclass: From Beginning to Advanced” taught by Jonathan Simon. It is a course on a very well-thought-out platform called “Udemy.” In this footprint, I covered Lectures 17-22, doing gesture, contour, and structural drawings, This is the usual way drawing instruction starts for beginners.

    Although I’m not an actual “beginner” in this footprint, 24 years is a long time to not do something! Also, in 1998-99 as a true beginner, it somehow didn’t occur to me to practice every day. So my progress wasn’t good. This time around, at age 72, I’m practicing almost every day.

    Dates and explanations are on each picture.

    Cheers to all!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldAt Home in OaxacaSpeak, World
    The Ex-Monastery of Culiápam
    Center of CuliápamA field of black bean plantsOCOTLÁN A mural of Rudolfo Morales in the City HallThe town market is the second largest in Oaxaca's Central Valley. Poor turkeys and chickens!Such delicious chile rellenos in a market eatery!VALENTINE'S DAY!CARNIVAL! A parade--this village had turkey dancersWith "Zancudo" (mosquito) Dancers from the town of ZaachilaI was embraced by a devil! Observe the black dye on my arms. And yes, it washed out.ENRIQUE'S HOUSE: Time to commission bookcases from Maestro Fernando José Santibáñez GruhlA new sofabed for the living roomMITLA: Zapotec ruinsAnd the desecration that followedI'm posing with the landscaper of the gardens surrounding the ruins

    FEBRUARY 2023: Outings and Carnival!

    February 28, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    OUTINGS AND CARNIVAL! FEBRUARY 2023

    First, a moment of memory and affection for my friend and neighbor Roger Bobo. I call him the Jascha Heifetz of tuba players. He also also taught the world through his many distinguished students that the tuba is a beautiful instrument. Please listen!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1txIgL8-2xY

    We started February with a Sunday excursion to the town of Cuilápam to see the ex-convento there. Twenty years after Spain’s conquest of Mexico in 1521, it is astonishing how many such gargantuan religious edifices were built. (Or maybe not “astonishing,” as the Mesoamerican peoples were forced to tear down their own buildings and use the same stones to build the Spaniards’ religious edifices.)

    At the ex-convent it was not only the day of a marriage, a baptism, and a quinceañera, but also Culiápam’s saint’s day, so there was much action in this ancient place. Enrique and I went for a walk in the surrounding farmed areas, and bought just-harvested black beans and peanuts from a local owner. And as always, there was a delicious meal in the market. Since we arrived late, we were served the last remaining dish: beef “panzita” in a tomato-y broth. It’s the only kind of tripe that Enrique can stomach.

     The following Sunday we went to the town of Ocotlán, home of the artist Rodolfo Morales. We visited the museum which his family’s Foundation is running to display his works in rotation. There are murals of his in churches in the Central Valley of Oaxaca, and in other places as well. Search for “Roberto Morales Ocotlán” for beautiful images. The market was quite a highlight—full of activity, color, noise, and so much to buy!

    Our third outing was to Mitla, which is famous for its Zapotec ruins and beautiful weavings. We saw the ruins first (of course all buildings were devastated by the conquering Spaniards, who forced the rightful owners to destroy their own buildings etc., etc.) Then we our market lunch, and a fascinating conversation with our hostess. She lived and worked as far north as Baja California, but made her way home south to Oaxaca twenty-odd years later. Finally, we bought lovely tablecloth “clothing” for Enrique’s and my dining tables.

     Carnival! It is a time for happy pre-Lenten celebrations, with many many devils. The highlight was a parade of the best of carnival from neighboring villages here in the Valle Central de Oaxaca.

    And oh! Of course there was Valentine’s Day.

    Please enjoy the photos.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldAt Home in OaxacaSpeak, World
    Flying over the Panama Canal on my way home to Oaxaca
    Rafael, Enrique, and Lina Suárez at Family Court, getting things doneAt the old railway station in Oaxaca. Mr. Suárez Senior worked for the national railroadEnriqueThe two brothers on the Mixteca animal merry-go-roundA trip to the Northern Sierra: Ixtlán's scary viewpointJanuary is the bromeliad blooming month.Ixtlán ChurchEnrique, me, Lina (who lives in Cancún, state of Quintana RooThe Oaxaca artist Raúl Herrera at the beginning of his careerAnd in his primeOaxaca artist Crispin Vayadares in 1995And in 2019My friend Elisabeth on José Lopez Alavés, one block from my homeThere are always flowering trees in Oaxaca!1Sunset over the Basilica of La SoledadEnrique and I took a walk in the hills. It's the dry season, and the oak leaves will soon be gone.1Poor old William. At 12 years old, a newborn is hard to cope with.

    JANUARY 2023: The Family Pays a Visit

    January 18, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    In my previous blog about my trip to northern Chile, I frequently received remarks like, “How wonderful that you’re traveling again!” This was strange to me, because every single day I’m in Oaxaca, I feel that I’m in the midst of a different kind of “travel:” that of traveling into the depths of a culture and my own soul. This is the fourth time in my life I’ve taken such a trip. The first was 1969-71 in Matsumoto, Japan; the second from 1980-86 in London, England, and the third from 1986-87 in Cairo, Egypt. But now, since August 2020, I’ve been on the journey of a lifetime—combining and using all of the knowledge of my 71 years, and learning utterly new things in depth as well.

    So I have decided to take you along on a monthly blog of this deeper-than-touristic voyage so you can see what it means to me. We’ll start with January.

    My pareja Enrique Suárez Murcio is one of four siblings: oldest brother Marco Antonio, deceased from COVID; older sister Rosalina—“Lina,” and younger brother Rafael. Lina and Rafael came to Oaxaca for the first time since their childhood visits: 36 years later! The purpose was to help out with a legal issue regarding the family home (write your wills NOW, everyone!) but it was also celebratory. After a day in Family Court, we spent the rest of the time enjoying each other’s company in various places. I am thrilled to be in the midst of Family, and equally grateful to be warmly accepted by them.

    The month rounds out with a few other bits and pieces: scenes from Oaxaca, two Oaxacan artists, some street scenes, a Sunday “dry season” outing in the hills to the north of the city, and the stressed-out neighbor’s cat sleeping off his relegation to “decidedly not so important” after the birth of his family’s first child.

    January!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldNorthern ChileSpeak, World
    On a red rock by a salt flat
    Inca Trail on the right, and an Andean fox on the leftWater and wind carved these circlesMany vicuñas were seen. Smallest member of the camel family.Vicuñas eat only a part of ths grass, so the "retoño," regrowth, is there when they return.At a salt flat with my van seatmate from BrazilAltiplano lichenA collection of altiplano flora--at 14,000 feetFlamingos love salt flats because there a tiny shrimp is their food.They eat more than 8 hours a day. This is an Andean flamingoA perfectly camouflaged lizardThis is the specific kind of grass the vicuñas eat, along with flamingos.Into a land of rock formationsThese are privately owned guanacos, decorated to show ownershipSantiago Airport, outside the check-in center

    Atacama Desert: Red Rocks and Salt Flats

    January 14, 2023 in Chile

    Atacama Desert: Red Rocks and Salt Flats

    This is a combination of my last two days’ tours on January 14 and 15, with photos so you can see the desert scenery. More explanations are given in the photo captions.

     Most of the area is up near the Bolivian border. In fact, in the salt flats tour, our guide was actually an English and Spanish teacher from La Paz, Bolivia. A few times we were above 4500 meters (14,700 feet) altitude! When I breathed, I couldn’t feel any result of being oxygenated. This resulted in my walking slowly and not talking to anyone— to try to get my breath back!

    On the last day, I shared the tour with the Bolivian guide, a doctor from Santiago specializing in geriatrics, and a retired Taiwanese chemical engineer. The four of us bonded immediately, and enjoyed each others’ company the whole day. A jackpot!

    And this concludes my trip to northern Chile.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldNorthern ChileSpeak, World
    3In town before the tour: a purebred criollo horse, my favorite breed of mine!
    A prickly Altiplano tree during the dayAnd at sunsetVolcano that hovers above the town from Valle de la LunaSalt in situExamining a salt mine.Our guide was a Likanataí. He is explaining about the salt mine

    Atacama Desert: Valle de la Luna

    January 13, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    It seems that the tourism industry in each country I visit picks two or three major sights to fly visitors who have only a week to explore. The two places in Chile are Torres del Paine National Park and the Atacama Desert. Missing are a slew of gentler, lesser-known places that I have loved, such as the island of Chiloe. (I wrote about it in my first trip to Chile.)

    The Atacama Desert is a wild and beautiful place, with little water, high altitudes, and a variety of interesting altiplano plants and animals. The indigenous people who live there are the Likanantaí. They are the stewards of the lands that I visited with my tours, charging admission to each major stop, and watching over the innumerable visitors.

     Remember the NY Times article a few months ago about huge lithium deposits that were found in northern Chile? Well, this is where they were found—in the fragile reserves in the region. The rights to mine were sold by the Chilean government to a U.S. company, and all hell will break loose in 2030. You need must get to the Atacama soon, as much will be lost—especially in the salt flats you’ll see in my upcoming posts.

    These pictures show my first excursion.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldNorthern ChileSpeak, World
    2Leaving the bus station in La Serena. Find a funny object in this picture.Please observe the desert in the morningPlease observe the deser in the afternoonPlease observe the desert at sunsetThe view along the road where the mining happens

    A 13-Hour Ride: La Serena to Calama

    January 11, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I was so curious to see the deserts in northern Chile! After the green of Patagonia, I needed some contrast. So, I offer these photos of what my ride mostly looked like, to satisfy YOUR curiosity.

  • Speak, WorldNorthern ChileSpeak, World
    21. People on this boat! A challenge to see when everyone stands up to take their own pictures.
    21. People on this boat observing wildlife. Not so easy when everyone stands up to take their own pi1Humboldt penguins. Description of proposed mining depredations.In the very middle of this picture are two sea lionsLos Choros church2I had a store in Los Choros selling olive oilDried seaweed with the suckers that attach it to the rocksThe surrounding countryside around Los Choros13Paula and me at our last evening-- taken by a professional photographer!

    Penguins at Isla Damas

    January 8, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    My second tour involved traveling north to see the endangered Humboldt penguins. I have to reveal at this point that taking tours was more of a necessity than just getting to see places I wouldn’t ordinarily be able to visit alone. It was also because cities in Chile are at this time extremely dangerous—especially for a solo traveler like me. Not only am I spotted in an instant as a foreigner, but will also obviously be carrying a phone, money, and other valuables. An easy target. Tours are the answer for staying in a group, and so far this has worked out quite well: great guides and pleasant company. The only sacrifice is my 50-year tradition of fascinating solo traveling. At least in Chile.

    Back to the penguins. There are now 12,000 mating pairs up and down the coasts of Chile and Peru, and their habitat is disappearing rapidly. We drove north for a little over an hour to the town of Los Choros to board a boat for Isla Damas. On the two-hour ride to and around the island, we saw a fabulous show of wildlife: sea lions, many sorts of terns, two types of cormorants, and—the penguins. The guide on the boat was excellent and could answer any questions. He was commenting on a non-penguin topic—the dangers of a new mining venture trying to start up in the area—as I took a video of the penguins. You can hear Chilean Spanish and watch the lovely creatures at the same time.

    To learn more about the penguins, here is a link:

    https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/species/bir…

    To honor my own wishes, our guide in the van made a stop so we could get out to examine the coastal flora at close range. I found that quite thrilling.

    To celebrate my final night in La Serena a few days later, I invited my always kind and affectionate landlady Paula out for mariscos, sea food, in a favorite restaurant of hers.

    Please enjoy the photos.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldNorthern ChileSpeak, World
    The damn of the Elqui River
    Looking toward the lower Elqui ValleyThe ReservoirThe Pisco distillery entranceView of the Vineyards from the distilleryClose-up of the white grapes (with skins) Houston used in making PiscoCopper distilleriesOur samples of blackberry, lemon, and mango flavored Pisco. We also got a bit ofthe real thing.I can't quite identify the crop here, but look at the surrounding, totally dry landscape!The house and school room of Gabriela MistralHere is a lovely poem by Gabriela. See if you can find a good translation, or in Google translate

    From La Serena: Valle del Elqui

    January 7, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I had the great fortune of being a kilometer away from an A+ tour agency, so I booked tours for the 2nd and 3rd of January there. I used to be a “tour snob,” trying to find places by myself. This is a good process in large cities where a map and a guidebook are enough, but to see what’s OUT of town, a tour delivers. Both of mine included 14-15 people, we rode in vans, and the drivers were also quite excellent guides who spoke extensively and knowledgeably throughout via a microphone on board.

    The Elqui River empties into the Pacific Ocean two kilometers north of where I was staying. But its origins are in the west Andes, from which it flows into a fertile valley to the west of La Serena. Here a good portion of Chile’s vegetables are grown—especially lettuces, avocados, and olives for olive oil.

    Our first stop was a dam of the river, and we dutifully walked over the top of it. Actually, the first stop of day-long tours is for breakfast—a kind of prize for the night owls who actually got up in time to catch the van.

    To wake us up further, the second stop was at a pisco distillery. Pisco is an unaged brandy made from Chilean (or Peruvian) white grapes, and is distilled (without water) at 38-48 proof. Our tour guide also had extensive knowledge of the process, so we did our thinking before our drinking, to paraphrase a Spanish saying. (“Primero el deber, luego el placer.”) The classic South American cocktail is a “Pisco Sour,” which is pisco with lemon juice and shaken a great deal. We sampled it without the shake-up.

    Other stops were at Vicuña, the birthplace of Gabriela Mistral (Nobel Prize winning poet), lunch in a nearby town, and on the way back, a place to buy goods produced in the valley.

    You can see from the photos that it was quite a lovely trip. I wasn’t my usual chatty self with the other tour members, but stayed quiet and observant for a change. (A big change.)
    Cheers!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldNorthern ChileSpeak, World
    The exact location of my Airbnb property, one bedroom and private bath in a nice condoGabriela Mistral depicted in a mural right across from my condoNo commentEntrance to the Museum of ArchaeologyThe creation of a Diaguita couple based on their bones

    La Serena, second oldest city in Chile

    January 6, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    La Serena is a medium-sized city of 250,000, located 248 miles north of Santiago. It is ChiIe’s second-oldest city, with many things of interest to me.

    As it turned out, there was a very nice surprise right across from my Airbnb property: a historic house where the poet Gabriela Mistral lived with her sister, and just behind it, a public library dedicated to her memory. I explored the house with a very knowledgeable guide, and got acquainted with “Gabriela,” as she is known in Chile: the first Latin American author to win the Nobel Prize in literature in 1945, and also an educator, diplomat, and public intellectual. The area of La Serena is full of places where she lived and worked.

    I also walked the short kilometer to the “Faro,” lighthouse for my view of the ocean, back to town to book sightseeing, tours and just. walk around. I headed to the small and excellently arranged Archeological Museum, where I learned about the local indigenous people, the Diaguita, who settled in the area (and also in northern Argentina) from around 900 CE. Such wonderful pottery they produced! There are still 88,474 Diaguitas living in Chile today.

    The city center was given a “Haussmann treatment” 1948-52 to make it homogenously neocolonial, or Spanish Colonial Revival style. It is pleasant enough, and there seems to be enough money in the city coffers to keep the “historical” buildings freshly painted. This is necessary, because there is a plague of graffiti writing and murals on every available wall in the city. Indeed, this graffiti plague (my opinion) is sanctioned by city governments now all over Chile.

    I finally ended my first day in a coffee shop studying Spanish. A wonderful surprise: I found out that José Vasconcelos, the author of our Oaxaca reading circle’s current book, invited Gabriela Mistral to Mexico when he was Minister of Education (1922-24) to establish educational programs. A perfect connection!

    Please enjoy the photos.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldNorthern ChileSpeak, World
    Flying west over the Andes on New Year's Day, 2023
    Former City Hall, 1910, now operated by the Chilean NavyIt's summer down in the southern hemisphere!On my 5 mile coastal walkThis young man and his dog accompanied me on my way back. "Too dangerous," he said.This is my eel! With boiled potatoes, and mayonnaise.The coastline as interpreted by a Valparaiso artist in the Museum of Fine ArtsMuseo Palacio Baburizza, of Fine ArtsGraffiti it, covers everything, and seems to be accepted as an art form. My opinion differs.Cats minding the store!A very old elevator, no longer in useDefinitely not for people with vertigoTwo of my Airbnb companions, looking for pigeons and dogsThe view from one of my windows

    VALPARAISO

    January 4, 2023 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    My first trip to Chile was in 2019, when I explored from Cochran in North Patagonia up to Santiago. Now I’m finally back, to explore another section of this oddly shaped country. (From north to south, Chile extends 4,270 km, 2,653 mi, yet is only 350 km, 217 mi at its widest point, and averages just 177 km, 110 mi east to west.) This time I’m planning to go north from Santiago (near the middle) and my first stop is in historic Valparaiso.

    I had a truly rough time getting to this, my first destination, due to the domino effect of a 4-hour delay of my first flight from Oaxaca to Mexico City. You will be spared the details, but I missed two flights and arrived a day late, and the culprit was the airlines, AEROMEXICO. Be warned!

    I chose to stay in Valparaiso’s Historic Center (a UNESCO World Heritage Site from 2003) to explore the two cities: the lower town full of official government buildings and banks, and the upper town of steep hills, reached by 140-year-old 10-person elevators. Up on the hills are historic houses and other lavish buildings from Valparaiso’s heyday as a major port—before the Panama Canal was built in 1914. The Museum of Fine Arts is in a former palace; the Museum of Engravings is in a stately home. The hills are truly interesting and beautiful, though some parts are very rundown, filthy, and dangerous.

    The first day I walked along the coast for the entire day. With my binoculars I spied flocks of terns, cormorants, and pelicans, as well as a little sea otter. There was edible tubular kelp called “cochayuyo,” which I ate in Castro, on the island of Chiloe on my first trip to Chile. There were two lighthouses, native cacti and succulents on the hillsides, and even a very long public beach. There was celebration in the air, as January 2nd is also a holiday in Chile. By the time I was ready for lunch, the restaurants were all out of the standard fish, so I had eel! It arrived fried, and quite delicious.

    The second day I visited the Museum of Fine Arts, which is in the art nouveau/deco Palacio Baburizza. They have a collection European art, as well as the Valparaiso art for which I was searching. (See photos) And then to the Natural History Museum for descriptions of flora and fauna of here, Central Chile.

    The third day I visited the Valparaiso Museum of Engraving, which displayed great artistry and variety of techniques. But because of a blooming cold, I rested most of the rest of the day, and felt better on my last morning.

    The prices here are much more than those of Mexico, so I’ve felt some shock. But how pleasant to see cats minding many businesses along the main streets, and a few nice places to drink coffee and study Spanish in the late afternoon. It’s not difficult to be a short-term resident.

    And here, as usual, is a link for further information about the city:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valparaíso

    Please enjoy the pictures.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldMexico City BirthdaySpeak, World
    Just outside the Nat'l Museum of Anthropology. Click on the link to the museum website for photos
    All of the Oaxacan indigenous peoplesLos Danzantes: actually warriors captured for later sacrificesBall player. Use of hands and feet was forbidden. The winners were also used for human sacrifices.Music: On the right, water was sloshed in the cup to change the pitch as the head was blownMixtec pieces followThis and following: pieces from the northern deserts1Re-enactment of an Aztec featEntrance to Chapultepec Castle, the National History Museum, with modern Mexico City in the backgrouSor Juana Ines De la Cruz (1651-95), a young women who became a nun so she could write and THINK

    Two Museums I Love in Mexico City

    November 13, 2022 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The National Museum of Anthropology is a place of pilgrimage for me. I visited it as a child just after its creation, then in my twenties, my forties, and now in my seventies. It is a world-class museum, but more importantly, a moving and eloquent homage to the incredible indigenous heritage of Mexico, from thousands of years before the conquest. And it goes much further: it also documents ethnologically the lives and traditions still alive in the indigenous towns of today.

    Enrique and I started off our tour in the Oaxaca section of the museum, where we had left off in April of our previous visit to Mexico City. The ethnology rooms are still under renovation, but the anthropology rooms are resplendent. Although there are 16 indigenous groups in the state of Oaxaca, the museum highlights the Zapotec and Mixtec cultures. We spent two hours there! And, Enrique’s mother being Mixteca, we examined each case with wonder and admiration for his ancestors.

    And then, we skipped many rooms to go to the very last rooms, the Western Desert. The marvelous cases there demand another visit, and soon!

    Here is a link to the museum’s site for your enjoyment:

    https://www.mna.inah.gob.mx

     After a rest and a snack outside, we went to the Museo Nacional de Historia in Chapultepec Castle, in Chapultepec Park. The historical importance of the Cerro del Chapulín, “The Hill of the Chapulín” (grasshopper) goes back thousands of years to the first peoples in the Valley of Mexico, and in many prominent ways, continues to this day. The Castle—originally a church in the 1500’s, briefly became the dwelling of Emperor Maximiliano, then a military college, and then home of Mexican presidents until it was decreed a museum in 1939 by Lázaro Cárdenas.

    Such museum staying power we had! The history of Mexico was presented in chronological order in many rooms, with neutral explanations throughout (or I suspect—they could have been quite radical for many—but what do I know at this point?) Anyway, along with the beautifully mounted historical artifacts, I think it’s an adequate introduction to a complicated subject, and I enjoyed it.

    Such a stimulating and unforgettable day!

    Please enjoy the photos.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldMexico City BirthdaySpeak, World
    Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve from the bus window
    A model of the museum "El Chopo"Part of the museum showing its structureJosé Luis Sánchez Rull: "The silence of the flooded houses" oil on canvas1Mastadon in the UNAM Museum of GeologyA room of fossils1The museum staircaseThe party planners! Im with Alejandra Fierros1Rafael, Ñeni, Dani, Enrique, me, Alejandra and Persy.2The CAKE! Made to order!After the meal, in the "Moorish Kiosk" in the Alameda of Santa María la RiberaThe dome of the kioskA view of the Alameda from the kiosk

    Happy Birthday in Santa Maria la Ribera!

    November 12, 2022 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    For this year’s celebration of Enrique’s birthday, we decided to go to CDMX—Ciudad de México, Mexico City.

    We took the 7-hour bus ride to experience the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve, which stretches from the states of Oaxaca to Puebla. Although we obviously couldn’t jump out of the bus to explore, the views of the columnar cacti forest in the matorral and the Sierra Madre sub-ranges were stunning. The reserve was created in 2012, and it received UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2018. Is it protected? Supposedly. Let’s hope so. For very interesting information, here is a link:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tehuacán-C…

    We quickly set ourselves up in our minimalist AirBnb property on Calle Quetzalcóatl in the neighborhood of Tlaxpana, and almost immediately walked three blocks to Enrique’s neighborhood, Santa María la Ribera to eat “huaraches,” fried tortillas in the shape of a sandal, with anything you want on the top. We chose “carne del pastor,” which is a variety of grilled meats cut from a kebab rotisserie. There is much delicious rich food to be had at all times, but we restrain ourselves. Mostly.

    For the next two days, we explored parts of Santa María we couldn’t see on a previous visit, due to COVID. A note: Santa María la Ribera is a very old part of Mexico City, close to the Historic Center.
    Here you can get a bit more information:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colonia_Santa_Mar…

    “El Chopo” is an architectural marvel, built in Germany in 1902 as a an exhibition hall. It was dismantled and rebuilt on “Poplar Street,” Calle Chopo, to also be an exhibition center. It was bought by UNAM, National Autonomous University of Mexico in 1975, and after much expansion and renovation, was set out as a modern art museum. We saw all of the three exhibits before meeting Enrique’s brother, Rafael, for lunch.
    More information!
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museo_Universitar…

    The following day, we inched through another UNAM-owned museum, the Museum of Geology. I particularly loved the display cases from 1905, along with the eclectic collections of minerals, gems, volcanic rocks, dinosaur bones, etc. Fascinating.

    And then the Big Day, November 12. Enrique’s niece and I coordinated to have a birthday lunch in “María138,” an Italian restaurant just south of the beautiful neighborhood “alameda.” It is one of my great treasures and joys to be a part of a Mexican family. And birthday celebrations are extremely important! So much fun and congeniality.

    Please enjoy the photos.    Read more

  • Speak, WorldTrip to La MixtecaSpeak, World
    On the suspension bridge
    La Sierra del Sur, southern mountain rangeOn a hike with our wonderful guide, EdilbertoAn oak "tree garden"An amalgam of many small rocks. Does anyone know how it is formed?Edilberto is in the background.On our tour with Professor LorenzoA new kind of bromeliaBromelias and other plants grow on both trees and rocksWith the family deer and biology student AketzaliA blooming bromelia at the edge of a cliff1Enrique at the edge, tied to a palm by AketzaliLa Sierra del SurElection Day in the Municipio of YasondúaThe election winners: officers and adjunctsEdilberto and his mother with us in front of Doña Sebas's CafeThe original town church from the 1700's, La Capilla del CalvarioA record of its restorationThe new chrch, built in the 1800'sIn Tlaxiaco, a prize-winning youth band plays for Fiesta de la Virgen Asunción

    Down to Yosondúa

    October 13, 2022 in Mexico ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We left Tlaxiaco, a small city (population 18,900), for Yosondúa, a small town (8,800), on the fourth day of our trip. Our main interest was to get out in the countryside to explore it.

    We arrived by taxi at Yosondúa Natural Park, a narrow canyon with a dramatic waterfall, “La Esmeralda,” and a 140 meter (460 feet) suspension bridge right in front of the falls. We left our luggage in the park office, which is right at the falls, and got ourselves on that spectacular swinging-in-space bridge. And then: how could we NOT spend an inordinate amount of time looking at everything below and above us: the falls, bromeliad-laden “garden trees,” the Sierra del Sur, sun, the roiling rapids at the base of the falls, birds, each other. Binoculars are our great “eye extenders,” well-used as always. From the bridge, we could walk right up to the falls, which was terrifyingly good.

    Walking to our cabaña on a steep and rocky dirt road, I stumbled and fell with all my weight on to my right knee, which bled and swelled to twice its size—still hurting even 24 days after the fall. Never mind, Ibuprophen rescued me to be able to keep walking through the rest of the trip.

    The following day we witnessed the town’s triennial elections. Although voting isn’t mandatory, people are brought in from outlying areas by volunteer drivers of various sizes of trucks, so the total number of votes was 6500 (out of 8500). The first 11 people with the greatest number of votes filled all the town government offices, and the second 11 people with the greatest number of votes were assigned as assistants to each of the officers. (Please see the photo section for the names of the offices, as well as the winners.) The requirement for anyone to run for office was to have a record of public service to the town—with or without having been elected. The new officers have 3 months to prepare for their posts: to confer with former officers, to read the last 3 years’ records of proceedings, and to bone up on all the laws connected to their new jobs.

     Of note: half of the town’s officers had to be women.

     Our guide to all things Yosondúa were residents Edilberto Martínez Sánchez and his good friend Profesor Lorenzo---(Alas, I didn’t write down his last name). They were excellently informative.

     We were guided to “Doña Sebas Café,” which had a long table with plastic stools, a wood fire under three comals, and Doña Sebas (short for “Sebastiana) and her daughter cooking and serving the customers. Under such communal circumstances, the talk of the town flourished day and night. Enrique and I were there several times a day to eat and listen. One man’s comment on the urge to run for office in the election: “It’s said that being elected is like marriage: you want it—oh, how you really crave and want it so much, with all your heart. And then when you get elected, oh, you want so so badly to leave—to just get out!” (He was refering to how difficult it actually was, to my understanding.) A middle-aged nurse came early for breakfast, dressed in pretty local garments and bright red low pumps. When she finished, she jumped up to help Doña Sebas to clean up the café after election day’s total overuse. Such is the town spirit of community service.

     There is also no private farming property. All is communal land, parceled out to people applying to the proper town authority. It is similar to the egido system of Meso-America.

     After the excitement of election day, and resting my poor knee, we went on a long afternoon hike with Edilberto up to 2400 meters (7400 feet) for splendid views of the Sierra Sur, and the valley below. And the following day was spent with Profesor Lorenzo, visiting viewpoints, and a home harboring a herd of domesticated small native deer—raised by a family to interest visitors. It wasn’t just a tourist attraction, but an opportunity for the eldest daughter Aketzali, studying wildlife biology at university in Oaxaca de Juarez, to explain the region’s biodiversity and ecology.

     We returned to Tlaxiaco the next day, to attend a few hours of fiesta before returning home from our idyll to our big city home.

     Please enjoy the photos and videos!    Read more

  • Speak, WorldTrip to La MixtecaSpeak, World
    Tlaxiaco's main church: La Virgin de la Asunción
    The Virgin's yearly celebration, celebrated by massive floral displaysEnrique admiring the view of a cornfield in our Airbnb propertyHualmelúlpam Mixtec ruinsAt Santa Caterina TayakaChurch renovations skillfully madeMirador of valley of San Miguel AchútlaEx-Convent of San Miguel AchútlaA wall back in the city of TlaxiacoA park benchDance lesson of the Mixtecan "El torito" one of 10+ sections

    Part One: Tlaxiaco, the Heroic City

    October 10, 2022 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We planned a trip to Tlaxiaco (pronounced “tla-hee-AH-ko”) because Enrique was interested in visiting his mother’s birthplace for the first time since he was a not-so-observant 8-year-old. I was interested in everything about it, as I’d never been to in La Mixteca—one of the eight regions in the State of Oaxaca. It is a 3-hour van drive from Oaxaca de Juarez (capital of the state) where we live. We settled into an AirBnb property in the still-rural north of town, amidst cornfields and baa-ing sheep.
    Here you can find out basic information about Tlaxiaco:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tlaxiaco


    We explored the town center, with its newly renovated Clock Tower (it took a year) and the Cultural Center, where a charismatic young man taught a large class of young girls to dance “El torito,” (“Little Bull”) famous in La Mixteca. We began our quest to find some of Enrique’s mother’s relatives, members of the Murcio family. We were steered to two sections of the city where this family of business people and ironmongers lived, and in one of them we found a woman who knew all about them. On the following night, she arranged that we spend time with a Señor Carlos Emiliano Murcio Santos, who gave Enrique a run-down of every single Murcio he knew. When they parted in an affectionate embrace, Carlos called Enrique “cousin.”

    For the next two days, we took local “tours.” First we went to the magnificent Hualmelúlpam Arqueological site, with its pavilions and ball courts in the midst of native plant meadows. You have to understand that the flowers, shrubs, trees, and insects are just as important to us as the Mixtec ruins, so we poked around for hours. Unfortunately, the museum was locked up, and the key bearer nowhere to be found.

    The next day we took a taxi—first to the village of Santa Catarina Tayaka, home of our driver/guide, Pablo. In the village we ate breakfast, and then inspected the renovation of the local church-- of great interest, as the renovation of Enrique’s house in Oaxaca of the same period proceeds. (Early 19th century.) Our second stop was a “mirador,” outlook view of the countryside, which was quite impressive—but all the plants, trees and flowers were also stunning: a Garden of Eden! Finally we came to the partially-restored Ex-Convent of Achutla, on the “Route of the Dominicans.” In case you’re not aware, it took the Spaniards only a short time after the Conquest (1521) to cover the Mesoamerican lands south of Mexico City with three-story high and 1-2 block long churches and monasteries. They were built by forcing the conquered peoples to use the same hewn stones of their own cities to build the churches right on top. A sickeningly devastating ruin of a civilization.

    I love the poke-around explorations that we did. My old “motto,” “The bear went over the mountain to see what she could see,” is still in operation, but expanded with a second: “You never know…”

    Please enjoy the photos and videos.    Read more

Get your own travel profile

Free

QR code

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android

  • 2025© FindPenguins
  • Home
  • About us
  • Group Tracking
  • Press
  • Terms
  • Privacy Policy & Cookies
  • Help Center
  • Legal notice