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The Broughton Archipelago

juin - juillet 2023
  • Janet Taylor
Trip by boat in a Cutwater 28 from Salt Spring Island to the Broughton Archipelago north of Vancouver Island. En savoir plus
  • Janet Taylor

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    1

    Salt Spring Island to Secret Cove

    15 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We spent the last week provisioning our Cutwater 28 for a trip up to the Broughton Archipelago north of Vancouver Island. We'll be joining up with two more, possibly three more, boats for this adventure.

    We were scheduled to leave tomorrow but the wind is predicted to pick up so we left this afternoon to get across the Strait of Georgia while it's still calm.

    We left Salt Spring Island at about 3:15 pm and set our course for Secret Cove Marina on the Sunshine Coast. We went out into the Strait through Porlier Pass. We chose to cross the Strait as quickly as we could and cruised over at about 16 knots. We can tell our boat is very loaded down and, once again, I may have packed too much!! The trip was uneventful and we arrived at Secret Cove at about 6:15 pm.

    The marina was quiet with many empty slips as it is still not high season. We got settled, had our supper, and then I had a very early night.    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    1

    Secret Cove to Pender Harbour

    16 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had a leisurely breakfast and left Secret Cove in time to meet up with Great Escape, another larger boat in our group that was just going by.

    We followed them into Pender Harbour but turned north before they did. We stayed at Pender Harbour Resort Marina, and they stayed at an outpost of the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club, of which they are members.

    Our marina was lovely. There were a few permanent RV sites, a couple of rental yurts, and several very nicely appointed cabins for rent. The property was very neat and well cared for, and the facilities were spotless.

    Our friends from Great Escape walked over to our marina for happy hour. The nine of us squeezed onto our little boat for a very intimate visit!!

    Our neighbours at the marina were a lovely young couple and her parents on a 1985 sailboat. The young couple had just spent the last couple of years completely gutting and renovating this boat. Every bolt and piece of hardware had been replaced, the hull refibreglassed, and all new electrics, including a new electric motor. They were a very impressive and hard-working couple!!

    We had another early night. I'd like to think it was just the fresh air and sun but it might be my age!!    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    Blind Channel
    Leaving Blind ChannelSeas dying down to 1 meter waves1Was even able to get some knitting done!!Entrance to Gorge Harbour1Tough Arbutus trees!!Yin & Yang and Scout

    Pender Harbour to Gorge Harbour

    17 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We left Pender Harbour at about 8:00 am. In hindsight, we should have waited a few hours before setting off. Once we left the shelter of Pender Harbour, we encountered at least 9 or 10 knot winds and waves of 2 meters. We were bouncing all over the place, and dishes were flying off shelves and breaking. It was a little too rough for us, so we decided to head into Blind Bay to wait out the wind. It is predicted to die down in a few hours.

    There were a few cabins dotted along the north side of Blind Bay, but it is not a heavily populated area. After about an hour, our wind app showed that things were settling down, so we ventured back out into Malaspina Strait.

    The waves had dropped to about 1 meter, so we carried on. Eventually, the wind died down so much that we were able to go to planing speed. We made it into Gorge Harbour by about 3:00 pm. We filled up with fuel, got settled in our slip in front of Scout, another boat in our group, and then met up for a lovely happy hour with them. Great Escape, chose to anchor at Teakerne Arm for the night. They are a large 30 meter boat and the entrance to Gorge Harbour is narrow for such a large boat.

    After supper, we discussed our strategy with Scout for our next day's travel. We will be going through some channels that get narrow in spots. When the tide rushes through big rapids and whirlpools form. You have to go through at slack to avoid trouble.

    Should be an interesting day.    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    Leaving Gorge Harbour
    Humpback whalesScout at Yuculta RapidsGreat Escape at Yuculta RapidsYin & Yang forest bathing!800 year old cedar with forest elf taking a picture!Forest bushwhacking!!Tree NymphsTeam ScoutGreat Escape Team MembersGreat Escape fearless leaders

    Gorge Harbour to Blind Channel

    18 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We were up early to shower and get at least one cup of coffee into us before we left at 7:00 am. We had three sets of rapids to go through before we got to Blind Channel, and we needed the early start to get to the rapids at slack.

    Our first challenge was to get through Uganda Passage. It's a squirrly, shallow, little passage, but it was high tide, and neither Scout nor Yin & Yang had any problems.

    At about 8:30 a.m., we were just heading into Whale Passage when, funnily enough, we encountered 3 humpback whales. We gave them lots of space, but I did manage to snap a few photos.

    We met up with A Great Escape just before Stuart Island to muster for our trip through the rapids. We were traveling with the current, and although we all had our engines mostly idling, we scooted through the Yuculta Rapids at about 7 knots. After that, we puttered slowly up to Dent Rapids. At flood or ebb, there is a large whirlpool that forms called Devil's Hole. The chart warns that "violent eddies and whirlpools form at Devil's Hole."

    In the end, the trip through the rapids turned out to be a non-event entirely because Jon had researched the area well. He knew exactly when we needed to go through the rapids so that it would just be a lot of swirling water rather than a dangerous and frightening experience. It would have been very cool to hang out there for a day just to see what happens during flooding and ebbing. I've heard it's wild, and now that I've been through, I'll check out the YouTube videos.

    We arrived at Blind Channel Marina at about 1:30 pm. The marina is on a channel that has quite a bit of current. A Great Escape had motored ahead to so they could get tied up before the maximum current rushed through there. Yin & Yang and Scout ended up safely tied up beside Great Escape.

    We all decided to go for a hike to see an old-growth cedar that had been left when the area was logged 100 years ago. This cedar is estimated to be about 800 years old. It was quite awe-inspiring. We carried on and somehow or other lost the trail. We went off script trying to find our way back to the marina and ended up bush-whacking back to the trail.

    We were definitely ready for some refreshments and thoroughly enjoyed appetizers and a bespoke cocktail, aptly named "The Stern Tie," provided by the lovely Cruisers on Great Escape.

    Scout and Yin & Yang finished the day with a very good meal at the marina restaurant in honor of Father's Day.    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    Scout
    Yin & YangVery calm waters!Vancouver Island snowcapsEvidence of logging everywhere.Entering Havannah ChannelHiking around Lagoon CoveChatting near the Blow HoleKnot cheat sheetHmmm!Marine artifactsBurgee collectionPerfect ending to a perfect day in Lagoon Cove

    Blind Channel to Lagoon Cove

    19 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We were woken by Jon's alarm at the ungodly hour of 3:30 am. This was actually intentional. We needed to get through some rapids at slack and then get into Johnstone Strait early before winds picked up as they usually do later in the day.

    When we left the dock at Blind Channel, it was barely light enough to see, and I looked back with envy at A Great Escape. Being a larger boat, the narrow channels we were heading into would not have been fun for them. They were all tucked up in bed and, at a more civilized hour, would cruise through Johnstone Strait to our next destination.

    From Blind Channel, we retraced our steps a short distance north and then turned northwest to go through Greene Point Rapids and then west into Chancellor Channel. The current was with us, so we made excellent time.

    We headed northwest at Wellbore Channel and carried on through Whirlpool Rapids, where we scuttled through at 11 knots with very little help from our engine! We turned to the southwest at Sunderland Channel and eventually connected up to Johnstone Strait. This is where I abandoned my post and had a lovely nap for an hour or so.

    We were pleasantly surprised to find that, although it was a gloomy, cloudy day, winds were very light, exactly as predicted. In hindsight, we could have slept in and taken A Great Escape's route up Johnstone Strait. But as they say, hindsight is 20/20 vision, and you just never know how accurate weather predictions are. After our experience in Malaspina Strait the other day, I was more than happy to play it safe! And the scenery was beautiful!!

    After 13 nautical miles in Johnstone Strait, we turned north and then northeast to get to Havannah Channel. The water was glassy calm, and I made us some tea to enjoy while we sat just at the entrance to Chatham Channel to wait for A Great Escape to catch up.

    We all went through Chatham Channel together and then split up at the Blow Hole, a shortcut past Minstral Island to Lagoon Cove. A Great Escape went around Minstral Island as the Blow Hole is a very narrow, shallow channel.

    We spent the afternoon kayaking, paddle boarding, and hiking, and then at 5:00 pm all the marina guests made their way to a large deck for Happy Hour. The marina provided delicious prawns and sauce, and guests brought their own drinks and appetizers to share. At one point during Happy Hour, Kelly, an amazing marina emplyee, spotted a grizzly bear and her cub on a far shore. It was the icing on the cake of a very pleasant hour spent visiting, and we were all charmed by the wonderful hospitality of Lagoon Cove Marina. We all agreed that we would definitely make this a stop on future cruises.

    We went our separate ways for supper, and then later, just when you thought the day couldn't be more perfect, the setting sun provided a specular sunset for us all.    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    Morning coffee with neighbours
    Knight InletKnight InletTribune ChannelTribune Channel2Rust stains

    Lagoon Cove to Kwatsi Bay

    20 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After sleeping in till 8:00 am, and after a leisurely morning, we left Lagoon Cove at about 11:30 am. Kwatsi Bay was not far, so we took our time cruising there.

    We left Lagoon Cove and went around the west side of Minstral Island to Knight Inlet. After two or three nautical miles along Knight Inlet, we turned northeast up into Tribune Channel. We wound through Tribune Channel past Thompson Sound and Bond Sound and into Kwatsi Bay.

    The trip was beautiful, and around every turn was another amazing vista. You almost want to pinch yourself to make sure you're not just dreaming up this magnificent place. Along the way, A Great Escape and Scout saw a pod of dolphins, and Scout and Yin & Yang saw a black bear.

    There is an abandoned marina in Kwatsi Bay. From the pictures in our guidebook, it looks like it was once a beautiful place. Now it is abandoned, and the docks are in complete disrepair.

    We all anchored at the end of Kwatsi Bay and hopped into A Great Escape's tender for a tour around the bay. We joined A Great Escape on their deck for appetizers, went back our own boats for supper, and then finished the evening with a game of dice with Scout.    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    Day started out cloudy
    Day ended up being beautifulWe found Billy enjoying the sunThere's not much to BillySelf explanatory1Billy's junk!!4000 to 6000 year old arrow headsJapanese glass net ballsSun setting on Echo Bay

    Kwatsi Bay to Echo Bay

    21 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had an uneventful but beautiful trip over to Echo Bay by going slightly southwest in Tribune Channel and then through Hornet's Passage.

    We had not planned to stay the night here as we had been told that the docks were not ready and that there was no one to man the store. When we arrived, we discovered that although there was no power, one of these docks had been anchored so we could actually tie up there. Also, there was a large enough dock for A Great Escape. We decided to stay here for two nights because it was such a beautiful place. There was a collection of floating houses, a store, a post office, laundry facilities, and fuel.

    The reason for stopping here in the first place was to see Billy Proctor's museum, and as it turned out, we got to see 88 year old Billy Proctor himself! A short walk on an excellent trail takes you over to Billy's property. As Billy describes it, his museum is a "collection of junk" he has collected throughout his life of living in the area. He built a small building to house and display all his treasures, and it's fascinating. Beside the museum building is a mini school room displaying items from the old school that used to be in Echo Bay, and there is also a replica of a logger's cabin. A small gift shop stands beside the museum, and here we purchased several books about Billy's life on the west coast as a fisherman and a logger.

    After visiting Billy, we joined A Great Escape on their deck for appetizers and then headed back to our own boats for supper. Later, Jon and I availed ourselves of A Great Escape's generous offer to shower on their boat and had a peaceful night in the protection of Echo Bay.    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    The mail plane arriving
    Mail plane leavingBeautiful day for a paddleWith Yvonne and a lovely print we bought.Our group leaving SeaRose StudioYvonne and Albert

    Echo Bay Day Two

    22 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    In the morning after breakfast, I wandered up to the marina store, and Darren was there getting ready for the mail airplane. Yvonne Maximchuk, a local artist, also arrived, and we all chit chatted for a bit. Other members of our group wandered in, and we all paid for our moorage, laundry, snacks, etc. Lisa from Scout knew of Yvonne and had wanted to visit her studio, so we decided to paddle over. Lisa was on her paddle board, and I was in my kayak, and we paddled around the corner to SeaRose Studio.

    The studio is on the lower level of Yvonne Maximchuk and her husband, Albert's home. Yvonne paints seascapes, landscapes, portraits, and wildlife in acrylic and watercolour and is also an accomplished potter. We had a lovely chat with Yvonne, and I bought a little vase. We thought the rest of the group was going to join us, but we saw no sign of them, so we paddled back to Echo Bay in slightly choppy seas.

    As we got back to Echo Bay, our fellow travelers were just getting ready to go to SeaRose Studio. We jumped in the tender with them and went back. We had another wonderful visit with Yvonne and Albert, and they ended up giving us a little tour of their property. Unfortunately, for health reasons, they are hoping to sell and move closer to medical facilities. It's a beautiful, tranquil spot, and I'm sure they will find it hard to leave.

    After leaving SeaRose Studios, we stopped off at Billy's place for another quick visit. We found Billy sitting outside his museum enjoying the sunny day. A Great Escape dropped off some treats for Billy, and we made our way back to Echo Bay.

    After Happy Hour on the dock, we went our separate ways for the evening.    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    Fledglings outside the laundry room
    Mainland mountainsSullivan Bay MarinaTwo reprobates in the brigIf you know what this is, you're likely a baby boomer!Chillin' in the sunVisiting with friendsAn evening paddleA quiet evening stroll

    Echo Bay to Sullivan Bay

    23 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We awoke to a cloudy chilly morning, but our experience of the last few days has taught us that the clouds eventually burn off to reveal a beautiful blue sky. Sure enough, by about 10:30 am, the sun was starting to shine through.

    We had a leisurely morning, and I did a load of laundry before we left Echo Bay. We cruised through Raleigh Passage to Penphrase Passage, then around Stackhouse Island into Sutlej Channel, finishing in Sullivan Bay. The water was glassy calm, and we had beautiful views behind us of snowcapped mountains.

    Sullivan Bay is a lovely marina and collection of float homes managed by Bill and Laura and a friendly, competent crew. They are slowly cleaning and repairing the marina after many years of neglect. The colourful pots and hanging baskets of flowers and plants are spectular. We were too early in the season to try out the restaurant, which will open on July 1, but the General Store was open and sold delicious cinnamon buns!

    Not long after we docked, Lady Gayle arrived. We all visited on A Great Escape for a couple of hours and then did our own thing for supper. We gathered on the flybridge of Scout to visit and watch the sun set. It was our last night with A Great Escape. We will all sorely miss their wonderful company and very generous hospitality.    En savoir plus

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  • Janet TaylorJanet TaylorThe Broughton Archipelago
    Entrance to Actress Passage
    Intrepid ScoutHappy Hour on ScoutHappy Hour on Scout

    Sullivan Bay to Bond Basin

    24 juin 2023, Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    It was another cloudy, misty morning that turned into another amazing day. We are thankful for all this amazing weather, but the forest is in desperate need of a drink.

    The lovely cruisers on A Great Escape brought us all freshly baked croissants before they cast off to start their return trip to home port. They have been so wonderful to travel with, and I was very sad to see them go. We enjoyed the croissants with our coffee, then packed up to carry on with our adventures.

    Lady Gayle decided to go back to Echo Bay to see Billy Proctor and the museum, and Scout and Yin & Yang made their way to Drury Inlet. At the mouth of the Inlet, we encountered humpback whales and orcas.

    We carried on into Drury Inlet to check out Jennis Bay Marina. It was quite "rustic" with very few services so we decided not to stay for the night. Instead, we carried on up Drury Inlet to Sutherland Inlet. From there, we backtracked a bit, went through a narrow channel into Actress Passage, and went as far as Bond Basin, where we all actually grabbed a weak cell signal. Go figure!

    We left Actress Passage and in Drury Inlet, met up with Sea Senor, a couple we had met at Sullivan Bay. We decided to all head back and anchor in Bond Basin for the night.

    We gathered for happy hour on Scout and enjoyed our time visiting and getting to know our new friends from Sea Senor. After supper on our boat, the wind calmed down, and we had a very peaceful night in Bond Basin.    En savoir plus

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