• Janet Taylor
Jun – Jul 2023

The Broughton Archipelago

Trip by boat in a Cutwater 28 from Salt Spring Island to the Broughton Archipelago north of Vancouver Island. Read more
  • Trip start
    June 16, 2023

    Salt Spring Island to Secret Cove

    June 15, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We spent the last week provisioning our Cutwater 28 for a trip up to the Broughton Archipelago north of Vancouver Island. We'll be joining up with two more, possibly three more, boats for this adventure.

    We were scheduled to leave tomorrow but the wind is predicted to pick up so we left this afternoon to get across the Strait of Georgia while it's still calm.

    We left Salt Spring Island at about 3:15 pm and set our course for Secret Cove Marina on the Sunshine Coast. We went out into the Strait through Porlier Pass. We chose to cross the Strait as quickly as we could and cruised over at about 16 knots. We can tell our boat is very loaded down and, once again, I may have packed too much!! The trip was uneventful and we arrived at Secret Cove at about 6:15 pm.

    The marina was quiet with many empty slips as it is still not high season. We got settled, had our supper, and then I had a very early night.
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  • Secret Cove to Pender Harbour

    June 16, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had a leisurely breakfast and left Secret Cove in time to meet up with Great Escape, another larger boat in our group that was just going by.

    We followed them into Pender Harbour but turned north before they did. We stayed at Pender Harbour Resort Marina, and they stayed at an outpost of the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club, of which they are members.

    Our marina was lovely. There were a few permanent RV sites, a couple of rental yurts, and several very nicely appointed cabins for rent. The property was very neat and well cared for, and the facilities were spotless.

    Our friends from Great Escape walked over to our marina for happy hour. The nine of us squeezed onto our little boat for a very intimate visit!!

    Our neighbours at the marina were a lovely young couple and her parents on a 1985 sailboat. The young couple had just spent the last couple of years completely gutting and renovating this boat. Every bolt and piece of hardware had been replaced, the hull refibreglassed, and all new electrics, including a new electric motor. They were a very impressive and hard-working couple!!

    We had another early night. I'd like to think it was just the fresh air and sun but it might be my age!!
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  • Pender Harbour to Gorge Harbour

    June 17, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We left Pender Harbour at about 8:00 am. In hindsight, we should have waited a few hours before setting off. Once we left the shelter of Pender Harbour, we encountered at least 9 or 10 knot winds and waves of 2 meters. We were bouncing all over the place, and dishes were flying off shelves and breaking. It was a little too rough for us, so we decided to head into Blind Bay to wait out the wind. It is predicted to die down in a few hours.

    There were a few cabins dotted along the north side of Blind Bay, but it is not a heavily populated area. After about an hour, our wind app showed that things were settling down, so we ventured back out into Malaspina Strait.

    The waves had dropped to about 1 meter, so we carried on. Eventually, the wind died down so much that we were able to go to planing speed. We made it into Gorge Harbour by about 3:00 pm. We filled up with fuel, got settled in our slip in front of Scout, another boat in our group, and then met up for a lovely happy hour with them. Great Escape, chose to anchor at Teakerne Arm for the night. They are a large 30 meter boat and the entrance to Gorge Harbour is narrow for such a large boat.

    After supper, we discussed our strategy with Scout for our next day's travel. We will be going through some channels that get narrow in spots. When the tide rushes through big rapids and whirlpools form. You have to go through at slack to avoid trouble.

    Should be an interesting day.
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  • Gorge Harbour to Blind Channel

    June 18, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We were up early to shower and get at least one cup of coffee into us before we left at 7:00 am. We had three sets of rapids to go through before we got to Blind Channel, and we needed the early start to get to the rapids at slack.

    Our first challenge was to get through Uganda Passage. It's a squirrly, shallow, little passage, but it was high tide, and neither Scout nor Yin & Yang had any problems.

    At about 8:30 a.m., we were just heading into Whale Passage when, funnily enough, we encountered 3 humpback whales. We gave them lots of space, but I did manage to snap a few photos.

    We met up with A Great Escape just before Stuart Island to muster for our trip through the rapids. We were traveling with the current, and although we all had our engines mostly idling, we scooted through the Yuculta Rapids at about 7 knots. After that, we puttered slowly up to Dent Rapids. At flood or ebb, there is a large whirlpool that forms called Devil's Hole. The chart warns that "violent eddies and whirlpools form at Devil's Hole."

    In the end, the trip through the rapids turned out to be a non-event entirely because Jon had researched the area well. He knew exactly when we needed to go through the rapids so that it would just be a lot of swirling water rather than a dangerous and frightening experience. It would have been very cool to hang out there for a day just to see what happens during flooding and ebbing. I've heard it's wild, and now that I've been through, I'll check out the YouTube videos.

    We arrived at Blind Channel Marina at about 1:30 pm. The marina is on a channel that has quite a bit of current. A Great Escape had motored ahead to so they could get tied up before the maximum current rushed through there. Yin & Yang and Scout ended up safely tied up beside Great Escape.

    We all decided to go for a hike to see an old-growth cedar that had been left when the area was logged 100 years ago. This cedar is estimated to be about 800 years old. It was quite awe-inspiring. We carried on and somehow or other lost the trail. We went off script trying to find our way back to the marina and ended up bush-whacking back to the trail.

    We were definitely ready for some refreshments and thoroughly enjoyed appetizers and a bespoke cocktail, aptly named "The Stern Tie," provided by the lovely Cruisers on Great Escape.

    Scout and Yin & Yang finished the day with a very good meal at the marina restaurant in honor of Father's Day.
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  • Blind Channel to Lagoon Cove

    June 19, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We were woken by Jon's alarm at the ungodly hour of 3:30 am. This was actually intentional. We needed to get through some rapids at slack and then get into Johnstone Strait early before winds picked up as they usually do later in the day.

    When we left the dock at Blind Channel, it was barely light enough to see, and I looked back with envy at A Great Escape. Being a larger boat, the narrow channels we were heading into would not have been fun for them. They were all tucked up in bed and, at a more civilized hour, would cruise through Johnstone Strait to our next destination.

    From Blind Channel, we retraced our steps a short distance north and then turned northwest to go through Greene Point Rapids and then west into Chancellor Channel. The current was with us, so we made excellent time.

    We headed northwest at Wellbore Channel and carried on through Whirlpool Rapids, where we scuttled through at 11 knots with very little help from our engine! We turned to the southwest at Sunderland Channel and eventually connected up to Johnstone Strait. This is where I abandoned my post and had a lovely nap for an hour or so.

    We were pleasantly surprised to find that, although it was a gloomy, cloudy day, winds were very light, exactly as predicted. In hindsight, we could have slept in and taken A Great Escape's route up Johnstone Strait. But as they say, hindsight is 20/20 vision, and you just never know how accurate weather predictions are. After our experience in Malaspina Strait the other day, I was more than happy to play it safe! And the scenery was beautiful!!

    After 13 nautical miles in Johnstone Strait, we turned north and then northeast to get to Havannah Channel. The water was glassy calm, and I made us some tea to enjoy while we sat just at the entrance to Chatham Channel to wait for A Great Escape to catch up.

    We all went through Chatham Channel together and then split up at the Blow Hole, a shortcut past Minstral Island to Lagoon Cove. A Great Escape went around Minstral Island as the Blow Hole is a very narrow, shallow channel.

    We spent the afternoon kayaking, paddle boarding, and hiking, and then at 5:00 pm all the marina guests made their way to a large deck for Happy Hour. The marina provided delicious prawns and sauce, and guests brought their own drinks and appetizers to share. At one point during Happy Hour, Kelly, an amazing marina emplyee, spotted a grizzly bear and her cub on a far shore. It was the icing on the cake of a very pleasant hour spent visiting, and we were all charmed by the wonderful hospitality of Lagoon Cove Marina. We all agreed that we would definitely make this a stop on future cruises.

    We went our separate ways for supper, and then later, just when you thought the day couldn't be more perfect, the setting sun provided a specular sunset for us all.
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  • Lagoon Cove to Kwatsi Bay

    June 20, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    After sleeping in till 8:00 am, and after a leisurely morning, we left Lagoon Cove at about 11:30 am. Kwatsi Bay was not far, so we took our time cruising there.

    We left Lagoon Cove and went around the west side of Minstral Island to Knight Inlet. After two or three nautical miles along Knight Inlet, we turned northeast up into Tribune Channel. We wound through Tribune Channel past Thompson Sound and Bond Sound and into Kwatsi Bay.

    The trip was beautiful, and around every turn was another amazing vista. You almost want to pinch yourself to make sure you're not just dreaming up this magnificent place. Along the way, A Great Escape and Scout saw a pod of dolphins, and Scout and Yin & Yang saw a black bear.

    There is an abandoned marina in Kwatsi Bay. From the pictures in our guidebook, it looks like it was once a beautiful place. Now it is abandoned, and the docks are in complete disrepair.

    We all anchored at the end of Kwatsi Bay and hopped into A Great Escape's tender for a tour around the bay. We joined A Great Escape on their deck for appetizers, went back our own boats for supper, and then finished the evening with a game of dice with Scout.
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  • Kwatsi Bay to Echo Bay

    June 21, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had an uneventful but beautiful trip over to Echo Bay by going slightly southwest in Tribune Channel and then through Hornet's Passage.

    We had not planned to stay the night here as we had been told that the docks were not ready and that there was no one to man the store. When we arrived, we discovered that although there was no power, one of these docks had been anchored so we could actually tie up there. Also, there was a large enough dock for A Great Escape. We decided to stay here for two nights because it was such a beautiful place. There was a collection of floating houses, a store, a post office, laundry facilities, and fuel.

    The reason for stopping here in the first place was to see Billy Proctor's museum, and as it turned out, we got to see 88 year old Billy Proctor himself! A short walk on an excellent trail takes you over to Billy's property. As Billy describes it, his museum is a "collection of junk" he has collected throughout his life of living in the area. He built a small building to house and display all his treasures, and it's fascinating. Beside the museum building is a mini school room displaying items from the old school that used to be in Echo Bay, and there is also a replica of a logger's cabin. A small gift shop stands beside the museum, and here we purchased several books about Billy's life on the west coast as a fisherman and a logger.

    After visiting Billy, we joined A Great Escape on their deck for appetizers and then headed back to our own boats for supper. Later, Jon and I availed ourselves of A Great Escape's generous offer to shower on their boat and had a peaceful night in the protection of Echo Bay.
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  • Echo Bay Day Two

    June 22, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    In the morning after breakfast, I wandered up to the marina store, and Darren was there getting ready for the mail airplane. Yvonne Maximchuk, a local artist, also arrived, and we all chit chatted for a bit. Other members of our group wandered in, and we all paid for our moorage, laundry, snacks, etc. Lisa from Scout knew of Yvonne and had wanted to visit her studio, so we decided to paddle over. Lisa was on her paddle board, and I was in my kayak, and we paddled around the corner to SeaRose Studio.

    The studio is on the lower level of Yvonne Maximchuk and her husband, Albert's home. Yvonne paints seascapes, landscapes, portraits, and wildlife in acrylic and watercolour and is also an accomplished potter. We had a lovely chat with Yvonne, and I bought a little vase. We thought the rest of the group was going to join us, but we saw no sign of them, so we paddled back to Echo Bay in slightly choppy seas.

    As we got back to Echo Bay, our fellow travelers were just getting ready to go to SeaRose Studio. We jumped in the tender with them and went back. We had another wonderful visit with Yvonne and Albert, and they ended up giving us a little tour of their property. Unfortunately, for health reasons, they are hoping to sell and move closer to medical facilities. It's a beautiful, tranquil spot, and I'm sure they will find it hard to leave.

    After leaving SeaRose Studios, we stopped off at Billy's place for another quick visit. We found Billy sitting outside his museum enjoying the sunny day. A Great Escape dropped off some treats for Billy, and we made our way back to Echo Bay.

    After Happy Hour on the dock, we went our separate ways for the evening.
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  • Echo Bay to Sullivan Bay

    June 23, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We awoke to a cloudy chilly morning, but our experience of the last few days has taught us that the clouds eventually burn off to reveal a beautiful blue sky. Sure enough, by about 10:30 am, the sun was starting to shine through.

    We had a leisurely morning, and I did a load of laundry before we left Echo Bay. We cruised through Raleigh Passage to Penphrase Passage, then around Stackhouse Island into Sutlej Channel, finishing in Sullivan Bay. The water was glassy calm, and we had beautiful views behind us of snowcapped mountains.

    Sullivan Bay is a lovely marina and collection of float homes managed by Bill and Laura and a friendly, competent crew. They are slowly cleaning and repairing the marina after many years of neglect. The colourful pots and hanging baskets of flowers and plants are spectular. We were too early in the season to try out the restaurant, which will open on July 1, but the General Store was open and sold delicious cinnamon buns!

    Not long after we docked, Lady Gayle arrived. We all visited on A Great Escape for a couple of hours and then did our own thing for supper. We gathered on the flybridge of Scout to visit and watch the sun set. It was our last night with A Great Escape. We will all sorely miss their wonderful company and very generous hospitality.
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  • Sullivan Bay to Bond Basin

    June 24, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    It was another cloudy, misty morning that turned into another amazing day. We are thankful for all this amazing weather, but the forest is in desperate need of a drink.

    The lovely cruisers on A Great Escape brought us all freshly baked croissants before they cast off to start their return trip to home port. They have been so wonderful to travel with, and I was very sad to see them go. We enjoyed the croissants with our coffee, then packed up to carry on with our adventures.

    Lady Gayle decided to go back to Echo Bay to see Billy Proctor and the museum, and Scout and Yin & Yang made their way to Drury Inlet. At the mouth of the Inlet, we encountered humpback whales and orcas.

    We carried on into Drury Inlet to check out Jennis Bay Marina. It was quite "rustic" with very few services so we decided not to stay for the night. Instead, we carried on up Drury Inlet to Sutherland Inlet. From there, we backtracked a bit, went through a narrow channel into Actress Passage, and went as far as Bond Basin, where we all actually grabbed a weak cell signal. Go figure!

    We left Actress Passage and in Drury Inlet, met up with Sea Senor, a couple we had met at Sullivan Bay. We decided to all head back and anchor in Bond Basin for the night.

    We gathered for happy hour on Scout and enjoyed our time visiting and getting to know our new friends from Sea Senor. After supper on our boat, the wind calmed down, and we had a very peaceful night in Bond Basin.
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  • Bond Basin to Booker Lagoon

    June 25, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After breakfast, we left Bond Basin on glassy calm water. We motored ahead and went back to Sullivan Bay Marina to top up our fuel and water for another night at anchor.

    We met up with Scout in Wells Passage, where we saw a healthy black bear having his breakfast on the shore.

    After leaving Drury Inlet, we followed Wells Passage into Nowell Channel. Turning to the east, we made our way to Fife Sound.

    We decided to spend the night anchored at Booker Lagoon. Getting into the lagoon requires going through the very narrow Booker Passage. Once through, the Lagoon opens up and is actually quite large with several good places to anchor. It's a really lovely spot hidden away, and we had the whole place to ourselves.

    We had a quiet afternoon on our own boats. I went for a kayak around some shoals near where we had anchored. A very curious seal followed me for a bit, but he was too quick for me to snap his picture.

    Sea Senor invited us all to their boat for appetizers, and more than two hours went by in a flash. The temperature dropped significantly with the setting sun, so it was a chilly trip back to our boat in the tender. We fired up our diesel heater and spent a quiet evening reading books about Billy Proctor.
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  • Booker Lagoon to Telegraph Cove

    June 26, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Jon was up at 6:00 a.m., ever so slightly annoyingly cheerful! I was ever so slightly annoyingly grumpy but perked up a bit after a cup of coffee and some oatmeal. We had to be up early so that we could get through the narrow passage out of Booker Lagoon. The current would be a bit too much for our boat at any time other than slack.

    We waited on the other side of the passage, and Scout soon appeared out of the mist. We set a course across Queen Charlotte Strait toward Blackfish Sound. After about 25 minutes, Lady Gayle also appeared out of the mists, making its way to Sointula on Malcolm Island. They have a much faster boat than the rest of us, so they will join us at Telegraph Cove later.

    We arrived at Telegraph Cove at 9:30 a.m. and immediately made our way to the Sally's Cafe for some delicious lattes. While we were there, we met an interesting fellow, Robert Yourns, from Texas. He was traveling in a 16 foot Jon boat with a 40 hp outboard. This is essentially a little open aluminum skiff. He had trailered his boat from Texas to Port Townsend and then had traveled all the way to Ketchican, Alaska, in this tiny boat. At night, he would set up a tent on the boat and put a mattress in the narrow space between all his gas tanks. He was able to get into some very interesting places with his little boat but he had also been out in six foot waves in this thing. I was impressed because you couldn't pay me enough to travel that far on the ocean in something that small. If you want to look him up on Facebook, his account is Ageless Wanderer.

    We spent the rest of the day having showers, doing laundry, cleaning up the boat, and visiting all the little shops, art galleries, and the whale interpretive centre in the village.

    At about 4:30 p.m., Lady Gayle arrived, and eventually, we all made our way to the deck of the pub for drinks. Later, we shifted inside and had a very good meal at the restaurant. After wandering around the village a bit more, we settled down for a very peaceful evening tucked safely into Telegraph Cove.
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  • Telegraph Cove to Lagoon Cove

    June 27, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We were up early again to cross Johnstone Strait before winds picked up. Scout had been tied up in a very tight spot at Telegraph Cove. After helping them get out of their spot, we followed them into the Strait.

    It was very calm but also very foggy and slightly unnerving to be boating somewhat blind. We we made it over to Baronet Passage with no problems.

    Traveling along Baronet Passage was like traveling in a river, and at times, the current was quite strong.

    Scout and Yin & Yang arrived at Lagoon Cove at about 11:00 a.m. and Lady Gayle arrived about an hour later. Lady Gayle had generously offered to take us all to Glendale Cove, which is in Knight Inlet, in their very fast boat. At the end of this cove, there is a shallow grassy estuary that grizzly bears like to frequent. It was windy and wavy in Knight Inlet, so we had a lumpy ride to Glendale Cove.

    When we arrived, we radioed Glendale lodge, and a skiff came out to speak to us. The two fellows in the boat were with a First Nations group that work to protect the bears from too much stress from humans. They gave us a pamphlet with information on respectful viewing of the bears and left us to our viewing.

    There were three large bears on the shore, which we were able to see through our binoculars. We couldn't get any closer because the Cove was very shallow, so we anchored and launched the tender. We didn't really get close enough to take pictures even in the tender, but I did try.

    The trip home was even lumpier than the trip out. On a calm day, the trip would have taken 45 minutes, but it ended up taking two and a half hours. Apparently, Knight Inlet is rarely calm. Because of its direction and steep banks, the wind often howls through here. It was nice to see Minstral Island and finally get behind it out of the wind.

    After supper and a shower, we were just settling down for the night when a group of drunken merry revelers wandered past our boat. One of them tripped and fell on the dock right by his tender. He was chuckling to himself as he slithered into his tender without a life jacket to return to his anchored boat. I kept an eye out to make sure he got there safely because I didn't want to find him later floating in the water. It was a good reminder of how boats and too much alcohol really don't mix!
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  • Lagoon Cove to Blind Channel

    June 28, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We had another 6:00 a.m. wake-up call so that we could time our trip through Chatham Channel at slack. Mother Nature is really not cooperating with my sleep schedule!

    The clouds and mist were already lifting as we pulled out of Lagoon Cove at 6:30 a.m. and I made coffee as we went through the very calm Blow Hole. Chatham Channel and Havannah Channel were also calm and clear as we went through, but up ahead, we could see that Johnstone Strait, while calm, was shrouded in fog.

    We fired up the radar and ventured into the Strait. We encountered small groups of boats traveling together so that they would be more visible on radar. Eventually, the fog lifted, and a flotilla of boats, the majority of which were sailboats, appeared out of the mist coming toward us. At one point, we counted more than 15 boats. It was quite a sight to see. They were all taking advantage of the calm seas and direction of the current to make headway in Johnstone Strait before afternoon winds blew up.

    At Chancellor Channel we turned east. Seas were calm, skies were sunny - it was a perfect day. We arrived at Blind Channel in the early afternoon.

    We had a leisurely afternoon of visiting and finished the day with a delicious meal at the restaurant.
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  • Blind Channel to Teakerne Arm

    June 29, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Yet another early wake-up call. We were considering different routes south, but they all involved going through some kind of rapids. In the end, we decided to literally stay with the devil we knew and return past Devil's Hole in Dent Rapids. And as per usual, to get to Dent at slack, we had to get up at the ass-crack of dawn! Can you tell I'm feeling a bit testy?

    I made us coffee, and we enjoyed a serene, beautiful trip while we sipped our brew. Boats started appearing at the north end of Codero Channel, and we all slowly motored toward the rapids. Because it was slack, we had another uneventful crossing of Devil's Hole.

    After Yuculta Rapids, we entered Calm Channel and from there into Lewis Channel. This is where I took advantage of the long, straight run and had a nap.

    We got to Teakerne Arm at about 11:30 a.m. and got anchored near a small public dock. We had something to eat, took naps, and then took the tender over to the dock. From the dock, there is a path that takes you to the lake that feeds the waterfall at the end of Teakerne Arm. We jumped into the clean, clear, very warm water of the lake and enjoyed a half hour of swimming.

    Back at the dock, we said goodbye to Lady Gayle as they were heading to Comox for the night and then home the next day. Scout joined us on our boat for a cold beverage. As we were visiting, our anchor alarm kept going off, indicating that we didn't have a good hold with our anchor. Rather than mess around trying to get a good hold and then spend the night worrying about breaking loose, we decided to join Lady Gayle in Comox. I very reluctantly said goodbye to the intrepid crew of Scout. They have been with us for most of this trip and they were absolutely wonderful to travel with.

    We arrived at Comox Valley Marina and civilization just after 7:00 pm. Lady Gayle was waiting for us, and we all walked over to the Blackfin Pub for a late supper, and then Yin & Yang settled in for the night.
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  • Comox to Silva Bay

    June 30, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This morning, Lady Gayle left Comox sometime after 7:30 a.m. and Yin & Yang left at noon. With our group all now off in different directions, the Broughton Archipelago cruise is essentially over.

    A Great Escape was back at home on June 27, Lady Gayle will be back to Salt Spring Island around midday today, Yin and Yang will spend the night at Silva Bay Marina and be home midday on Saturday and Scout is heading to Heriot Bay today and then home on Sunday.

    It really has been a most excellent adventure with the most excellent people. It was the first time in the Broughtons for all of us, and we have all broadened our seafaring experience over the last couple of weeks. It will be so nice to sleep in my own bed tomorrow night but I know as soon as we slip into our berth at the Salt Spring Sailing Club I will wish I was back in the wilderness of the Broughtons with all these amazing people I call friends.

    Thank you for following along with this trip report. In closing, I will leave you with the following quote:

    “It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” – Ernest Hemingway
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    Trip end
    July 3, 2023