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Across Europe
  • Simon Randfield
apr. – jun. 2023

Across Europe

On a bike Meer informatie
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  • Simon RandfieldAcross EuropeReiziger

    Chapelle baton

    2 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Long hot day into a head wind. Error to set off at 0830 due east on a long straight busy and fast road. But survived😟. Lovely windmill amongst the vines. Then to follow a couple of valleys heading north
    but plenty of up and downs. The vines gave way to wheat and the valleys became greener and lusher and v picturesque . I was met by my first Warmshowers host , mark , who accompanied me home in his eye catching quatrovelo recumbent: slow going up hill, like a rocket downhill. Mark and his wife, Marie-Loue very kindly fed washed and watered me and Marks stimulating conversation kept me up later than I needed. Either way, the cat got kicked out and I had the lounge floor!    Meer informatie

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    La Roche Posay

    3 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Local knowledge took me on an excellent network of car free backroads for 25k, the briefly joined the EuroVelo 3 again atop an impressive viaduct . Unfortunately the bike track petered out as quickly as it started but no great loss- the road was lovely weaving it's way up the Vienne valley to Lussac-Les-Cs . Getting more touristy now with plenty of English voices- and in many ways the scenery was quite English- but with hot sun. Up and over ( though no big hills now) to the Gartempe valley- these are all flowing north into the Loire, so another watershed crossed. But the roads were still quiet as I made my way to St Savin and it's impressive abbeye. Roche Posay was kicking off as I arrived with a big pétanque competition.Meer informatie

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    Beaugency

    4 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Big day today making the most of the wind swinging round to the south and later the west- heralding a change in weather to come... so "make hay whilst the sun shines" they say...
    Each impossibly quaint village is a mixture of finely manicured (second ?)homes and bombed out old farm buildings- all presided over by the big mansion/ chateau. Inbetween flat wheat fields with the occasional shallow valley. All very nice but immediately forgettable- until you come upon the chateau at Chenonceaux: wow! Built over the Cher river with elaborate gardens. In 1560, Francis II and Mary Queen of Scots were married at the castle, and that same year, when he was proclaimed King of France, the first fireworks in France were witnessed at the castle, during the celebration.
    Onward and I dropped down to the Loire at Chaumont-another ridiculous pile!! Decided to save my 20 euros this time, and cycled on. The Loire supposedly divides France into north and south, so when I arrived at Blois and crossed the river I am now essentially in Northern Europe!! . The wind was blowing straight up the valley, so with no accomodation booked, and knowing there's rain forecast for tomorrow, I added on a cheeky 30k. Biggest day yet, but with the wind assist and lack of significant climbing it didn't feel like it.    Meer informatie

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    fontainebleau

    5 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Rain!! Heavy first thing so delayed start, and jacket on. Jacket lasted all but 5mins as the clouds rolled back and the sun reappeared. More Loire side cycle ways of excellent quality- some run along levees alongside the river . Detour into Orleans was worth it - the twin towers of the cathedral were a marker on the horizon long before I arrived. Big on Joan of Arc here. Felt a bit bewildering to be in a big city! Easy in and out on the riverside cycle way- and then onto the Orleans canal . The towpaths started off amazing but rapidly deteriorated, so back onto quiet roads as I climbed up imperceptibly to flat nothingness. Eventually entered the Fontainebleau forest and after a critical food pitstop 10k short I popped out into Fontainebleau where city and chateau appear to have mergedMeer informatie

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    Sezanne

    6 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Flat fast and flies. And forgettable. I spent an hour wandering around the gardens of the chateau at Fontainebleau which were lovely ( and free) so decided not to pay the dosh to look at some fusty old furniture- for another day. Overnight rain and early morning mist cleared to reveal a still, sunny day. Some lovely cycling through the forest- firstly on ordered tree lined avenues then fast "single track" put a smile on my face. I dropped down to the Seine which I then followed for the rest of the day. This seemed a much more functional France- industrial and less picture-postcard. The river/ canal side path deteriorated until it was an uncyclable overgrown jungle - with loads of flies. Keep your moth shut whilst your cycling! Architecture has subtly changed- timber framed houses with red brick bits. Lots of oilseed rape, wheat, and wind turbines.. The last 15k was an imperceptible climb out of the Seine valley and suddenly I'm back amongst vines: champagne country.

    Ps very excited to get a mention on Radcliffe and Maconie radio 6 today! About 10 mins in when you were all asleep!    Meer informatie

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    Rheims

    7 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Dreich day here - the rain caught up with me- although the worst of it was before and after. 70k of cycling feels ( and should be) a rest day, so time to have a brief "degustation " of the fizzy stuff on the way through Epernay. Washing it down with the French equivalent of a sausage roll arguably was a bit insulting. Either way, after a glass of fizz everything went a bit pear shaped: my cycle computer stopped route finding for me, the rain started and then I had a hill! Haven't seen one of those since the Pyrenees!! Unfortunately it spat me out on to a busy A road in foggy wet conditions: not nice cycling. Was that my "champagne moment"? A laborious detour allowed me to experience the industrial estates on the outskirts of Rheims.😞 I'd started to question my decision to take this more urban route, but after a visit to the amazing Pommery champagne cellars- and the even more amazing -and huge- Rheims cathedral, it all seemed to make sense. First puncture today - notice the hissing at the doorstep of the hotel. Quick bit of glass removal and tubeless shoogling seems to have it fixed🤞Meer informatie

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  • Simon RandfieldAcross EuropeReiziger

    Givet

    8 mei 2023, Frankrijk ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A day of 2 halves although each half would have made a reasonable whole on another trip. Firstly, I discovered this was another French bank holiday.* I cycled 90+ k in the morning and saw NOTHING open . Indeed it was dreich again and I saw nothing , really. I slowly climbed up into the Ardennes that today felt more like the Himalayas due to my negative mood. My front tyre puncture was just about holding up but needed a bit of gonf every so often. I crawled into charlesville- mesiere and saw a burger shop open. Well the door was open but it was that magical French time 14:02: ferme!! However out of sympathy or bewilderment they decided they could squeeze me in ( the place was empty). My burger meal consisted of 2 burgers( really?) and a poke of chips- needless to say all disappeared in a flash.
    I wandered around charlesville thinking about staying, but what is there to do on a bank holiday??
    Well the answer is cycle a bit more. ( there are no other correct answers) I was aware there was a cycle way down the Meuse , but youre never too sure until you get on a "cycle way" how much is shared road, how much is dirt track. This cycle way was 99% traffic free, 100% perfect smooth tarmac. And with a tail wind. And the sun came out. And it was down hill: what's not to like? So now I'm in Givet, on the Belgian border, needing to give my legs a rest after a 175k day, give my poor bike some TLC and await the forecasted change in the weather....

    * in fairness , I think this was another Memorial Day for one of the great wars. Pretty real history round these parts. Perhaps I should toughen up.    Meer informatie

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    Liege

    9 mei 2023, België ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    A very very wet day. Followed the Meuse cycle path over the undefined border into Belgium and onwards. Dinnat was pretty cool and apparently where Alberto Sax- of saxophone fame- is from: who said there are no famous Belgians? The valley became more gorge like with limestone cliffs , and the occasional chateau- but it was really too wet to notice- or even care -after a while. Found a great cycling cafe for lunch at the bottom of the Mur de Huy- at 19% I'll leave that for another day. Reluctant to get back on the bike into the persistent rain- and justified as the path deteriorated in and out of industrial complexes and back streets all the way to Liege. Whilst rushing to get to a bike shop before it closed an 80 year old tripped up over a kerb and tangled himself up in my bike , breaking his hip in the process!! After we sorted all that out( impressive ambulance response times here) I found my warm showers host, Mark and had a lovely evening talking about Tibet, Trappist beers and Marillion!Meer informatie

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    Horn

    10 mei 2023, Nederland ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    really difficult to get started this morning.the rain had continued all night and was not looking like easing up. Warmshowers host Mark didn't make it any easier as I faffed about. Good news though, the emergency bike repairs last night( re-sealing the front tyre) has worked well. As is usually the case, once out in the rain it wasn't too bad: not too cold ( the splash from the millions of puddles felt warm!) with a slight tail wind. Having stopped for a prolonged coffee in Maastricht( Holland!) I emerged to find the rain had all by stopped and it just about remained that way as I jumped back and forth over the border following the Meuse/ Maas further north. Difficult to know how to greet somebody when hopping between countries...Bonjour? Hallo? Who knows.
    Guess what? Holland is very flat. It's full of canals, large and small and has an amazing network of cycle ways. The bike is king here and seems to have priority at every junction. I even saw a working windmill. No clogs, yet.
    However I have upgraded my bike    Meer informatie

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    Arnhem

    11 mei 2023, Nederland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After a quiet night in the hotel watching the "Ladies of Horn play Bingo" ( if there ever was a euphemism...) I had a leisurely start as I'd dropped my bike off for a service down at Heel. Great service- walk in, courtesy bike, perfect English and lots of enthusiasm from Jort and his colleagues. After a 6 k ride I was fairly happy to get back onto my own bike! Some nice wee riverside villages and lots of pleasant suburbia that looks so British but at the same time doesn't... A castle at Kessel. Crossed the Maas for the last time and soon after waved it goodbye. The Meuse/Maas has been my constant companion for more than 3 days and , in general, it's been a great way to make northerly progress and cut through the Ardennes whilst avoiding the busier industrial Rhine. Need to start heading east now otherwise I'm going to end up in a dyke! I nipped into Germany for 20k or so before popping back into the Netherlands for a hill (!!) and dropping down through Nijmegen and Arnhem- finally crossing the Rhine. The German border was unnoticeable and I spent some time today, as I did yesterday, wondering how to tell which country I was in. Decided best guide was number plates on parked cars. I was dry all today -apart from one Ninja downpour which had me soaked through in 2 minutes. Oh well! Fantastic Warmshowers host , Marcus , Carla and family looked after me royally.Meer informatie

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    Rijssen

    12 mei 2023, Nederland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Fantastic Warmshowers hosting and ready to go after daughter Merel introduced me to standard Dutch breakfast- chocolate sprinkles sandwiches!! Now need to head east and into Germany but trying to hold on to the fantastic Dutch cycle path network for as long as I can.!! Dry - and warm but oancake flat through Deventer where I also felt obliged to sample some deep fried fish like things from a street market. Perhaps because my veering into gastronomic touring I found the head wind tough today😞Meer informatie

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  • Simon RandfieldAcross EuropeReiziger

    Amsterdam

    13 mei 2023, Nederland ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The worlds best kept secret (?) : Ewen and Kerry had promised to take Hels away to a mystery destination for her birthday and guess what- its Amsterdam and the surprise guest is me! Lovely to see the family and to enjoy a couple of rest days in a beautiful and sunny Amsterdam- although we managed to squeeze in a cycle tour ...Meer informatie

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    Arnhem

    14 mei 2023, Nederland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Fantastic weekend break in Amsterdam with Helen, Kerry & Ewen. Hired a boat to cruise the canals in the morning- far less stressful than riding a bike in the city! Then lunch in the sun and some hard core art/ culture in North Amsterdam. Great food, a few drinks here and there and the BEST company. SO lucky to have an amazing family who offer their total support for my hair-brained schemes. Back to Warmshowers hosts in Arnhem tonight and then I guess I need to go ride my bike!!Meer informatie

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    Lastrup

    15 mei 2023, Duitsland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    leisurely start today as I had to wait til after rush hour to get myself and bike back to Rijssen, my last point. By the time I got there it was 11 and I was well caffeinated. Again , another thank you to the Kleijns for their great hospitality- which included breakfast of tea with milk and bread with marmalade!!🇬🇧🇳🇱
    Cycling today was pretty mundane. Very flat, some nice long canal side straights then , once in Germany, more excellent cycle ways , albeit alongside a busy A road. Great cycling weather. 125 k nearer wherever I'm going.    Meer informatie

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    Bremen

    16 mei 2023, Duitsland ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Almost forgettable ride here today. Flat. Strong cold north westerlies with the threat of heavy showers that never quite materialised. Alongside a busy A road that was nose to tail lorries for the best part of 5k- turns out the autobahn was closed. Interesting to see how many plates were non- deutsch: this really is the crossroads of Europe. However a shorter day also meant I had time to look round Bremen: I checked in with Dirke and Helmut, my warm showers hosts, who were keen to show me around their city. What a great tour of what a beautiful city!! Thank you!!Meer informatie

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    Hamburg

    17 mei 2023, Duitsland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    A repeat of yesterday but 40k longer! Good cycle paths, in general . Cold. Windy. And then Hamburg: the biggest conurbation I pass through on this trip. I approached via the docks which, though not pretty, had a good cycle path network and allowed me to cross the Elbe via the st Pauli elbtunnel- a descending lift( is there such a thing?) taking you to a pedestrian/ cyclist tunnel under the river. And free!! For some reason ( ok, cost) have decided to stay in the youth hostel. However they spotted I was no youth and charged me extra!!. Not sure who's going to hate the dormitory more- me or the 4 lads from brum who've got granddad sharing with them!!! So thought I should get into character and headed down the Reeperbahn but just found tawdry tatty sex shows and kebab shops. Fish out of water.Meer informatie

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    Bad Malente

    18 mei 2023, Duitsland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    That's more like it!! Had a much better nights sleep in the dorm than expected - my Brum chums were impressively quiet at whatever time they returned. I was helped by a few beers required in my pursuit of somewhere to watch Man City demolish Real Madrid- and celebrate the same.
    Cycling out through the centre of Hamburg at 8 there was something missing... people / traffic. Turns out it's a national holiday (Ascension day) so I had a pleasant cruise out through the suburbs. No wind. Warmer . An increasing number of undulations( some would call them hills...) were a pleasant addition( might yet regret saying that) and I arrived in Lubeck for an early lunch. Lubeck is the capital of the region, accesses the Baltic Sea, and was virtually untouched by wartime ordinance. Very impressive. Bank holiday atmosphere- live music, beer , sausages- and sun. On a recommendation I cycled on a further 45k to near Plon-the "German switzerland"- and lovely it is too.Rolling greenery and lots of lakes. This is why I go cycling😊    Meer informatie

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    Aabenraa

    19 mei 2023, Denemarken ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Long day in the saddle today as cycling conditions were near perfect and accomodation options were limited. Meandered my way out of the Funfseen ( and various back gardens) on gravel then head down on nice cycle ways albeit along side busy roads into and out of Kiel. Functional cycling. In Kiel a ferry direct to Oslo was very tempting! Only another 75k to the border🤪. Eckernforde was a lovely seaside town but don't be tempted by the beach and blue skies: the Sea is Baltic😉. However I was quite excited to see the sea again- first time since the west coast of France. The route to Flensberg was forgettable but easy cycling ( apart from getting lost in the castle at Schleswig). Flensberg harbour side was hooching- a holiday weekend- no doubt why all accomodation was booked up and I committed to another 25k over the border to Aabenraa- a Danish town or a bad hand in scrabble? I played Russian roulette drafting a tractor for 5-10k - easy to stay on and cruise at 30kmh- except it was piled full of logs with no gate on the back of the trailer....😳. Aabenraa looked like a good spot on paper- a cheap hotel with balcony and sea view- until you realise there's a massive great industrial complex right outside.Meer informatie

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    Give

    20 mei 2023, Denemarken ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was mainly about cycling. Scorchio but a moderate easterly wind kept the brakes on most of the day. Nice stops at Haderslev ( coffee) kolding ( castle, coffee) and vejle( lunch)- and to look at a church and harald bluetooths stone at Jelling
    *(Jim Kardach from Intel suggested was quoted as saying, “King Harald Bluetooth…was famous for uniting Scandinavia just as we intended to unite the PC and cellular industries with a short-range wireless link") . You heard it here first.    Meer informatie

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  • Simon RandfieldAcross EuropeReiziger

    Randers

    21 mei 2023, Denemarken ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Lovely weather once again-wall to wall blue sky, warm- hot, even- but that ever present north easterly head wind ... straight onto some gravel tracks through some lovely undulating heath land. Not a soul to be seen- until I decided to change my shorts 😳. Then 70km or so of completely unexpected ex railway line smooth cycle way. Almost got taken out by a startled deer. Had to stall in Randers- first at a patisserie, then at a cafe ( shame on me!!😜) so I didn't arrive at my warm showers host too early. Turns out Jens-Peter is chair of the Danish Cycling Federation- a font of knowledge. Also his homemade pizzas were as good as purported to be !Meer informatie

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    Frederickshavn/ Gothenburg

    22 mei 2023, Denemarken ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Fantastic warm showers hosts set me up for the day- though it was difficult leaving the breakfast table.... Decided today was the day to get my chain and casette changed, so detoured to Fri Bike in Hadsund who had the equipment but no time. A quick phone call ahead to Fri Bike in Fredericshavn who didn't have the equipment but had the time... what to do? Answer: time pressured delivery of precious cargo to the Frederickshavn store by me . The riding was beautiful- shame I had to do it in time-trial conditions!! firstly alongside a fjord then through forests and a vildmose sanctuary. Somwhere a ferry and lastly a long stretch alongside the endless beaches of North Jutland east coast. Denmark has really delivered with amazing cycling infrastructure and wall to wall sunshine. Hot again today- hard to believe I'm at an equivalent longitude to Aberdeen! Bike fixed up and ferry booked- arrive Gothenburg,Sweden 11pmMeer informatie

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    Gothenburg/ Munkedal

    23 mei 2023, Zweden ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Rest day!! Late arrival into Gothenburg (Sweden!!) by ferry. The scariest bit of cycling so far was getting off the ferry. Normally you'd be pleased to be allowed off first but as HGV after HGV piled off behind you it was somewhat un-nerving. And it was dark and I was heading into a big unknown city.
    But of course, Sweden has excellent cycle ways so it wasn't too bad . Turns out my hotel was the central station, and very nice too.
    The forecast was for rain , so with this in mind, and with my late night the night before and Gothenburg on my doorstep to explore it was always going to be a short day today. But after I'd wandered the streets for a couple of hours it was hosing it down and cycling didn't seem so appealing
    It's when you're feeling up against it that you make your most cunning plans. Walking back to the hotel dodging the puddles and dripping verandas I conjured up a plan to catch a train 100k up the coast, book into a hotel for 2 nights and train back to Gothenburg tomorrow morning to cycle back ( without bags 👍🏿) .
    So that's why I find myself in a cabin in the woods somewhere half way to Norway tonight🤪    Meer informatie

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    Munkendal

    24 mei 2023, Zweden ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    my cunning plan worked out well and I was back in Gothenburg Central with the commuter traffic by 9am. Blue skies and south westerlies too: result!! Getting quite used to amazing cycle paths : getting out of Gothenburg was easy with my own newly tarred path alongside the motorway. Once I'd got through shed city ( inevitably IKEA and Volvo garages) I was in some lovely leafy suburbs on shared but quiet roads. Then there was 30km I have absolutely no recollection of.... 😳
    By 50km I was on the seaside and found a great ( big) buffet lunch . One of life's big questions: when does a burger become a meat ball?
    After lunch I headed over a series of increasingly large bridges onto the Islands of Tjorn and then Orust. There were many similarities to the west coast of Scotland with its complex geography of inlets and promontories. The sea was looking inviting ( but not that inviting) and scattered multicoloured timber framed houses often built directly on the exposed rocky slabs dotted the shoreline. I'm further North than Scotland so why is it so developed here? Anyway, what a lovely part of the world- and how nice not to be encumbered with my panniers!    Meer informatie

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    Sarpsborg- 🇳🇴

    25 mei 2023, Noorwegen ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Tough headwind had me digging deep for the first 50k. Pretty soulless riding mainly alongside the main road across wide open plains with occasional granite intrusions. In another life I'd have been excited by all the rock climbing potential. Then, by complete surprise, I came across some amazing roadside Bronze Age rock carvings. Lots of boats and men with big.... calves... fighting. Even better there was an interpretive centre with a cafe! That set me up for the middle part of the ride which was more lumpy and nicer for it. Some pretty gnarly gravel kept my off-road quota up. I resisted the chance to go to Dafto, tho noted Daftoland was closed anyhow 🙄. I was hanging out for a nice lunch in Stromstad but my route avoided the centre and threw me into the adjoining shed city. 2km back to the town into the wind was just too much so it was greasy joe'sburger for me. Interested to see that everyone in the adjacent supermarket was exiting with huge quantities of drink. Then I noticed the carpark was full of Norwegian number plates. That makes sense- and cheered me up no end to realise I was nearly in my final country!
    There was however a few hills, a nearly dead snake, some lovely forest , a nice lake or two , and a Viking stone circle to contend with first. All very nice, helped by the wind shifting slightly but very significantly to south of west.🚴🚴🚴
    Unlike all previous border crossings on this journey, crossing from Sweden to Norway was notable. Notable by the shed city on the bustling Swedish side, by the increased traffic and loss of cycle friendly roads on the Norwegian side and not least by a dramatic bridge crossing.
    Reaching Norway is something of a landmark. It's my final country, and so far I've told people I'm cycling to Norway: now I need to be abit more specific. I also passed 5000km today- only ?2500km to go! Depressingly, I've only done 50% of the total climbing.....    Meer informatie

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    Oslo

    26 mei 2023, Noorwegen ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Similar day to yesterday , really . (Arguably quite similar to the last 40....). Got up, ate as much as is feasible from the buffet breakfast then went cycling. Head wind , sunny, cool. Lots of shared road space: need to get used to this again! Found an incidental stone circle in Lundeby, and a nice chat to a Romanian Chelsea supporter in his cafe in Moss. The chat got me a second coffee for free- who said all those nasty things about Chelsea fans?
    Onwards , nearly all on cycle paths- good as the road was busy. Norwegian cycle ways come with kerbs though: a bit frustrating. My mapping disappeared again so I was just following a line , hopefully fixed now otherwise finding my way across Norway will be tricky. Detour along the Nesodden peninsula gave a lovely ferry ride into the middle of Oslo to finish - but some serious steep bits and the road was busy busy with holiday weekend traffic in a rush to ... chill. Time for culture with a whirlwind race around the Nasjonalmuseet. A wander up the Opera House and met a German bike tourer completing his ride there : jealous!! Oslo on a warm sunny day : everyone looks so cool. I think I want to live here.    Meer informatie

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