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Shantelle's Camino50
  • Itchy Feet

Shantelle's Camino50

After years of dreaming and months of planning... it's time!!!
I'm about to embark on a transformative adventure and legendary pilgrimage that is the 'Camino de Santiago' - A 1000 year old pilgrimage predominantly across northern Spain đŸ‡«đŸ‡· đŸ‡Ș🇾 đŸ„ŸđŸŒł LĂ€s mer
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  • Resans start
    17 maj 2024
    Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenÀr

    What to expect...

    13 maj 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁ 28 °C

    The Camino Frances, also known as The French Route, is the most popular of the Camino de Santiago routes.

    I will be walking from St. Jean Pied de Port in France to Santiago de Compostela - the distance will be around 800km (cue Proclaimers... 'I'm Gonna Be (500 miles đŸ€“đŸŽ”)'

    This works out to around 20-30kms per day, with a few rest days here and there.

    Days 1 & 2 will consist of going up and over the Pyrenees Mountains 🏔 - some 1430m above sea level.

    I will be staying in 'albergues' which have dorm style beds and some private rooms. Most albergues provide pilgrim meals, or you can dine at a nearby bar. It's also common to buy ingredients at the local 'supermercado' and do a communal cook up in the albergue kitchen!

    At its core, the Camino de Santiago is a journey of self-discovery and spiritual renewal. Pilgrims from all walks of life come together to walk the path with a shared sense of purpose.

    They leave behind the hustle and bustle of daily life and immerse themselves in the simplicity and beauty of the natural world. As the feet move forward, the mind finds stillness, and the heart opens to introspection.

    Bring it on! ....    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r

    Packing & Prep

    13 maj 2024, Australien ⋅ ☁ 26 °C

    Soooo many thoughts and feelings coming and going re the pros & cons!

    'Have I packed too much? Have I packed too little?' They say that carrying 10% of your body weight is the ultimate load - anything over that is considered 'packing your fears', so that's been a huge challenge for me!

    I will be taking just my 40ltr backpack as carry-on, consisting of around 6.5kg - for 50 days! (Like I said - a HUGE challenge!!) I will add water and snacks to this too once I start, so no more than 7.5-8kg...well, that's the plan anyway!đŸ€ž

    My toiletries are a bit on the heavier side 😬... but oh well, I'm operating on a 'have and not need' as opposed to a 'need and not have' mindset! ... well, that's what I'm telling myself! 😝    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    2
    2

    And we're off!

    17 maj 2024, Australien ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Wow!! Getting to the airport was a challenge... not because of logistics, but just my nerves... I was literally shaking!

    I also got a bit teary - as you do - but now that I'm through customs and bag check, I'm feeling heaps better. Kai also helped lighten the mood when he said in the car on the way here, 'I call shotgun when mum gets out!' đŸ€Ł

    I had my 1st bit of Camino Magic too! ✚.... so I had my pack on whilst walking to customs and remembered I'd put my passport in the top zipper ... soooo me being me - on the go and not wanting to stop (will have to work on that one! 😝) - asked a friendly looking lady (thanks Robin🙏) if she would mind getting it out for me, to which she happily obliged!

    We started chatting in the queue about where we were going, and then she proceeded to hand me this cute little bag of 'travel stones' as she called them! Aka crystals .... anyone who knows me knows I LOVE crystals! 🙌🔼.... maybe I'll leave one at Cruz de Ferro!? đŸ€”

    1hr till boarding!! Thanks, everyone, for your well wishes.... I am surrounded by such beautiful friends! â€ïžđŸ§ĄđŸ’›đŸ’šđŸ’™đŸ’œđŸ€    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
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    Barcelona Overnighter

    18–19 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀ 20 °C

    Another great flight - Emirates were fantastic! A few screaming kids, but that's what ear plugs are for heh! And maybe it's preparing me for a room full of snorers in the weeks to come! 😬

    So I've been pretty nervous about coming to Barcelona! Mainly because of the horror pick-pocket stories - they're pretty brazen over here! But, alas, my nerves were calmed when I met yet another earth angel whilst waiting to board my flight in Dubai.

    I started speaking to a lovely spanish lady from Sydney called Roser 🙏... she was coming to Barcelona to surprise her dad after not seeing him for a few years. Turns out she was going in the same direction as me and kindly let me tag along with her.... so we caught a cab to Sants Metro Station.

    I was very fortunate to witness her beautiful, heart-warming reunion with her padre, and then said goodbye as I walked to my hostal a few blocks away - very tightly gripping my pockets I must say! đŸ€Ł... actually, I didn't feel like a target, but maybe it's because I memorised the route and tried to walk confidently like a local!? đŸ€”

    I'm not going to get a chance to explore Barcelona, as I need to catch up on some sleep and leave for Pamplona in the morning. I did, however, manage to go out for a bite and some people watching - behind a big safe window in a cute cafe ... I'm still sitting here at 8pm, and it looks like 4pm outside!

    Apparently, sunset isn't until around 10pm - and looking around, I think I am the only one eating a full meal at this time of day/night.... Everyone else is having coffee and cake! 😳

    I can't wait to come back and visit this place another time with the fam! If only I could bottle this weather and take it with me further north tomorrow! ✈    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    211My dorm room at Aloha Hostal - female with only 3 beds 👌The supposed 'magic pill'

    Pamplona on route to SJPdP

    19–20 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 16 °C

    I arrived in Pamplona and walked the 30mins to my hostal from the train station. It's beautiful here ... luscious greenery and historical stonework. Google maps is a godsend! How did we ever get from A to B before?! Imagine carrying UBDs in backpacks đŸ€Ł

    I went for a walk to find some hiking poles but no joy. I ended up eating a bread roll with omelette and ham inside as most food places are closed on Sundays ... not a great choice!

    I started feeling a bit off in the evening, so I went to the chemist to get some drugs - they recommended a magic pill that you take 3 times a day over 3 days . I had the worst night sleep, body ached all over, nausea, and my head felt like it was going to explode! (not from the food, but more than likely something I've picked up on the flight over)

    I honestly was in a very vulnerable state and at a loss as to what to do ... I felt so sick I wanted to come home. It was just awful, but I powered on.

    I considered changing my accommodation but decided to just lay low and trust that this was all part of the process. On a positive note, I do feel sooo much better than I did 3hrs ago though! đŸ€ž

    Hopefully, it stays that way ... thanks friends for all the loving, healing vibes! đŸ™â€ïž    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    Gite Belairi
    My Camino Credential/Passport and my 1st stamp!😁A great start with some puppy love!2Exploring the old town walls of SJPdP1This is the morning alarm Joseph uses....1Belairi community dinner on the Mon 20th MayBelairi community dinner on Tues 21st May

    Saint Jean Pied de Port

    20–21 maj 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁ 15 °C

    I am now at the starting point for the Camino Frances! I bussed over the Pyrenees - a very winding road resulting in some passengers getting a tad bus sick! đŸ€źđŸ€Ł

    A lovely spanish man sat next to me - Jose from Madrid - he has completed the Frances route before and now does small sections when he feels the need to de-stress from his busy job. He speaks like a poet when describing the beauty of the camino.

    SJPdP is the cutest little village, full of pilgrims from all over the world!
    I have 2nts here before I start - it turns out it was well planned, as it's another day to get over this darn bug! I guess one way of looking at it is that I 'shouldn't' catch it for the rest of the Camino right!? đŸ€žđŸ˜

    I'm staying at a 'gite' (hostal) called Belairi and am sharing a room with Janet from Scotland. In the evening, Joseph, our host, prepares a vegetarian communal dinner. We share names/countries, etc, and just get to know each other. These pilgrims will most likely form some of our Camino family!

    I went to the pilgrims office the next morning to get my 'credencial'. I was seated next to a sweet lady from Switzerland called Karen! We went for a wander around SJPdP together and now plan to start together in the morning!

    It's crazy to think that the real adventure hasn't even begun yet - these past 5 days and just getting here have really tested me and pushed me to my limits, so I'm actually feeling pretty proud of myself right now! đŸ™ŒđŸ€    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    My gorgeous dorm bed at Borda 💚Communal dinner at Borda with a warm pot belly stove!

    Day 1 - SJPdP to Borda via the Pyrenees

    22–23 maj 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁ 15 °C

    It was my 1st official day on Camino today! Not quite how I would have imagined it, but I made it nonetheless!! 🙏

    I headed out of SJPdP with Karen... when they say 'magic happens' on the camino, she's part of that magic today. With this nasty bug still lingering, it was a really challenging climb, and it was nice to hear her encouraging words 💚

    Karen was staying at Orisson, about 1km, before my accommodation at Borda. So when we got to Orisson, she kindly insisted on walking me to my hostal AND carrying my bag! 🙏

    OMG, the views are breathtaking, and the photos don't do them justice! We scored with the weather today, too... in fact, about half an hour after arriving at Borda, it started raining and then hailing!

    This auberge is stunning 🧡 ... I had a nanna nap this arvo, and then we had our communal dinner ... my appetite is slowly coming back! Good thing because I'm going to need the energy tomorrow for the rest of the ascent, then the descent into Roncesvalles.

    I've also opted to have my bag transported tomorrow - learning to be kind to myself and accept help when offered! 🙌    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    1Roncesvalles monastery/albergue accommodation
    'Beware of the Bulls'Virgin Mary statue in the mist1Mid hike food truck!22European black slug111My top bunk2Pilgrim mass1

    Day 2 - Borda to Roncesvalles

    23–24 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 12 °C

    Today was super cold, but no rain! Karen met me out front of my accommodation with a new friend - Mo from the USA!

    The views were spectacular even with the mist. Giant birds hover & glide, cute lil black faced sheep are stacked up the sides of the mountains & horses wearing their clunky cow bells, were happily grazing by the roadside.

    Despite there not really being any trees at the top, the sound of the birds trilling was just beautiful!! It was definitely a 'sounds of music' moment.

    Roncesvalles is an old monastery that sleeps over 300 pilgrims... we arrived here around 2pm ... I was allocated a top bunk - not ideal - but a bed is a bed! I guess if I can climb the Pyrenees, surely I can climb a small bed ladder, right? đŸ€”

    As I sit up here typing this at 9.30pm... I can already hear several snorers ...definitely going to be a night for the ear plugs!

    For dinner, we are split up into 3 restaurants in the village... we were served soup, pasta & chicken. At 8pm, we went to the Pilgrims mass and received a blessing!! 🙏

    Now its bed time! Lights out in 4mins! Hope these ear plugs hold out đŸ™đŸ€ž    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    Zubiri - Rio Arga
    The debatable 790km sign?! ...but we've just done 27km getting to this point!?6Burgete - the Sorginaritzaga Forest "Oakwood of Witches" where covens in the XVI century were held.3Karen - Switzerland, Mo - USA, Mel - Denmark1Espinal4How cool is this pic! He literally looked at me when I said 'hi mousey' ❀3411Delicious salad prepared by Sara @ Casa Suseia11

    Day 3 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    24–25 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀ 20 °C

    The albergue in Roncesvalles wreaks history and beauty. It's a very well-oiled machine, but it was a bit too many people for my liking! I hung around this morning, so I was one of the last ones to leave and also to avoid the race out of town!

    Today was a pretty big day... but oh, so beautiful! I never dreamt it would be this pretty! We were again blessed with beautiful sunny weather! Heaps of ups and downs, cows, horses, field mice, lizards... even a small snake (unless it was a legless lizard?!đŸ€”)

    Towards the end, we were navigating dragon teeth type rocks for about 5km downhill. Lots of concentration is required... but I was so so grateful we weren't coming down a couple of days ago when it was pouring with rain! These rocky surfaces would have been so treacherous!

    I heard a pilgrim slipped and fell to his death a few days ago, not far from here! 🙏    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    Ori the WayMaker! â€ïžđŸŸOri's owner yelling at us from her balcony! đŸ€Ł121Best vego pasta in Zuriain!ZabaldikaGardens around the nuns chapelDoing washing the old fashioned way!Clothesline in the sun1Stairs up to the bell in the chapel3Pilgrim evening blessing with the nuns22

    Day 4 - Zubiri to Zabaldika

    25–26 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Well, today was a pretty magical day for so many reasons!

    The walk was along a river pretty much the whole way along the cutest little paths under huge, neverending canopies of beech trees!

    I'm getting ample dog love with the local 'perros' ...in fact there was this one dog called Ori who guided us back onto the track when we took a wrong turn! He literally started barking, and then his owner came out and, in her broken english, redirected us! Camino Magic right there ✚

    We stopped for lunch on the river Arga in Zuriain, and I seriously ate the best vegetarian spaghetti ...it went down a treat! 😋... or maybe it's because I got my appetite back?!

    Tonight, we chose to stay at Zabaldika, a Municipal albergue run by nuns! It was the most tranquil, calm place, and only 7 pilgrims staying there! The nuns were so, so kind and the hospitaleiro, Veraso, was also amazing and helped me sort out some accommodation issues by calling them on my behalf and speaking Spanish! AND they let me stay in a room on my own because of my noisy cough! đŸ€ŁđŸ˜·    LĂ€s mer

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    A BIG lesson in patience!

    26 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 22 °C

    I'm sitting here now in Pamplona at the medical centre to get my cough checked out.... Karen & Mo insisted. If I were on my own... I'd still be walking! It's been like 2 hours already, just sitting here!!

    What bothered me at 1st was as we walked into Pamplona at midday, we went to the peregrino hiking shop, and as lovely as the guy there was, he said the medical centre in town wasn't open ... so he said to go to the hospital on the way out of town.

    We walked for half an hour and went to the one he told us to go to... but wrong one! So we got guided to the right one by this beautiful lady who was just standing there - as if waiting to help us! She even walked us into admissions and spoke to the nurse in Spanish for me!

    Long story short, the hospital wait was 5+ hrs ... no thanks! She said to go back into town to the - you guessed it - medical centre!!!! Turns out it IS open.... so we got a taxi back into town, and here I still am ... receiving my lesson in patience! 😬

    I know I'm here to get better at going with the flow, BUT, man, this is so frustrating!

    I had to pay 126€ so I can't just get up and leave!

    This, too, shall pass 🙏    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    11Weirdest tree I've ever seen...upside down like! Maybe it's called the cousin IT tree?! đŸ€”12 resident pooches at the accomOur very ordinary but quiet triple room with a very squeaky bunk bed!

    Day 5 - Zabaldika to Cizur Mayor

    26–27 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Today started with a stunning walk out of Zabaldika, but then we hit the concrete jungle of Pamplona ... although in saying that, they actually have a lot of beautiful parklands in and around Pamplona!

    Nonetheless, today was the day we were going to find a doc to check me out. My beautiful friends stayed with me that whole time, despite my grumpiness and insistence that they move on without me!

    It'll probably go down as my least fave day on Camino... BUT compared to a spanish woman we met at the hospital, I was in a pretty good place... she had taken 3 steps onto the camino in St Jean, then slipped and broke her arm... Camino all over! đŸ˜©

    It's definitely a lesson in perspective for me! My price was just a few measley hours! 💚

    The accommodation tonight was awful... it looked so nice on booking.com, but the place was a mess! AND we had to walk an extra 4kms to get there off the path!

    Tomorrow is a brand new day! ☀    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    2My friend spotted this in the way up to Alto del Perdon.... so cute!
    Bye bye Pamplona!3Alto del Perdon111Santa Maria de Eunates - 12th century octagonal chapel11My single room at Albergue Jakue!!🙏

    Day 6 - Cizur Mayor to Puente La Reina

    27–28 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 19 °C

    Via Alto del Perdon (Mount of Forgiveness)

    We set off at 8am through fields of grass splattered with red poppies - onwards and upwards towards Alto del Perdon. It felt like quite a lot of pilgrims out this morning - on foot & bike.

    The wind turbines were in view for the most part today. It's not until you're right next to them that you can feel the energy & power that they both use and produce... just magnificent!

    We reached the top and jumped in for pics ... it was extremely windy up there today, and unfortunately, a bit overcast, so the pics don't come out as well - but alas, the sky was moody and full of energy! 🙌

    We then decided to visit Santa Maria de Eustane ... a 12th-century chapel believed to have belonged to the Knights Templar! This was an hour detour off the track, but we figured it was worth it. So off we trotted... only to get there and find they were locking up for an hour!! Oh well! we decided to just sit outside of it instead, basking in the sunlight, soft grass, and this stunning piece of history.

    The last part of our walk today was through the cutest village of Obanos. It was like a ghost town, though, since the locals were having a siesta!

    Tonight, we are in Albergue Jakue, and I'm so, so excited as it's my 1st night in a private room with my very own bathroom!! 🙌... bliss! It's very simple, but it's just what I need tonight! 💚    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    Puente La Reina meaning 'Bridge of the Queen' - 11th century romanesque
    1Ruth, Mo, myself & LesleyKaren snapping me, snapping the cathedral gates1I love my hearts!11Picturesque village of 'Cirauqui' in the distance1This lady 'Victoria' has set up this pitstop in the middle of nowhere and does it voluntarily 💚My light at the end of the tunnel!1The most beautiful roses I've ever seen and smelt đŸ©·My bed for the night at Hosteles de Curtidoria - stunning inside!4Dinner tonight... spinach & ricotta lasagne 😋3

    Day 7 - Puente La Reina to Estella

    28–29 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀ 24 °C

    My senses are alive today!! The colours of the flowers against the vibrant blue sky, the delicious smells that dance around your nose all day... this place is seriously mind-blowing! I am in total awe of its beauty đŸ©·

    The weather has been so kind to us, and yes, it does get hot in the arvo, but I prefer this to wind & rain any day!

    As we chugged up the hill to our 1st hilltop village of the day, we were greeted at the top by the cutest, most well stocked pilgrim cafe! There were dogs everywhere, Bob Marley was playing, the sun was shining bright and it was just the happiest place to be!! I am meeting so many interesting people too! đŸ«¶    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    5Fuente del vino - wine fountain
    1Wheat fields1Cafe in village of AzquetaA sight for sore eyes - an Oasis in the middle of nowhereFields of red poppies!Los Arcos1Chemtrails in full swing!1Beer garden in SansolPalacio de Sansol - tonight's accomodation2Stunning bedroom!4After 29kms, this is my 'dirt' tan!2Believe it or not... this is 9pm at night!2The coolest surprise ever - in the middle of nowhere!

    Day 8 - Estella to Sansol

    29–30 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    A big 29km walk today!! đŸ˜±... The muscles were locking up by the time I arrived at Sansol! 😅

    I had a great night sleep in Estella with the calming sound of the river literally next to the room! I started walking this morning at 7am as I knew it was going to be a long day in the sun!

    First port of call was the famous wine fountain in Ayegui, near Estella... I poured myself a lil petrol for a good morning kick start, and it seemed to get me going!

    Most of today's walk was amongst wheat fields & vineyards with little to no cover... but still oh so beautiful! The skies are the bluest blue making for very pleasant walking conditions! What I really noticed today was the butterflies... they just dance around your face the whole time...it's so pretty! 🩋💙

    The accommodation tonight - Palacio de Sansol - is the cutest place with exposed timber beams and stone ... and the tiniest little windows đŸȘŸâ€ïž    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    Catholic Church of Santa Maria - Viana
    Stunning artwork inside the cathedralChurch of the Holy Sepulchre - linked to Knights TemplarSansol artwork13Cute happy house coming into LogronoFamous Calle Laurel (pinchos eat street)22A pizza vending machine?!l đŸ˜±2

    Day 9 - Sansol to Logrono

    30–31 maj 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 21 °C

    A dedication......

    Well, I woke up to some very sad news today. My dear friends dad - Alan Jennings - passed away suddenly this week. You could say that he is the reason I am on the camino... 🙏

    When I first met Dominie - 5 years ago at Christ Church Grammar School - I was planning my 1st Bibbulmun track Venture experience. She proudly told me all about her dad, sister & brother doing the 'camino' back in 2015, I think it was. I'd never heard of this 'camino', but from that moment on, my curiosity beckoned me, and I knew that one day I would do it!

    It was only a few weeks ago that I was thanking Alan for what I was about to embark upon! He had this presence that made you feel so comfortable and at home... a truly spectacular human being is 'Saint Alan' and what a proud life he has led... 7 children, 11 grandchildren, a beautiful wife, and LEAGUES of friends who love him unconditionally ... may his soul rest in peace 🙏

    And so today, I pay homage to this proud, revered man, and I walk in dedication to Alan and his beautiful camino memories ... I'm pretty sure I felt him next to me coming out of Sansol.... he walked proudly with his held held high, taking in the fresh air and sights of the spanish countryside ❀

    It was a quiet walking day full of solitude and reflection ...    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    2Leaving Logrono
    Just a really pretty tree! 🌳2Giant fish... what are they? Same size as Koi but not Koi?!Ruins of the San Juan de Acre Hospital founded in around 1185 as a hostel to aid pilgrims!2Friendly bar owner displaying his waresVego meal from said Bar5I paid €1 and this whole altar lit up!! 🙌Tonight's accommodation - courtyard out back2Bruno showing off!2Accomodation was very tastefully decorated!2Twin room luxury for €38 each!!1View from the top of the village at Navarrete2The hearts are popping up everywhere!! â€ïžđŸ©·đŸ’šđŸ’™đŸ§ĄđŸ’›3Ever since I saw this chair a few villages back, I've been obsessed with kit kats!! 😋2

    Day 10 - Logrono to Navarette

    31 maj–1 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    A short walk today as it was either 15km to Navarette or 30km to Najera.... body said Navarette!!

    As I was walking out of the big city of Logrono, the locals were so kind and kept pointing us in the right direction whilst yelling, 'Buen Camino!' - so friendly! We also stopped at a fruit n veg grocer and picked up some apples & bananas and then a patisserie to grab a pistachio croissant too! 😋

    The walk out of the city was actually really lovely and went for around 10kms! We passed ducks, birds, fishermen, carps, school kids on excursion, tractors, and even cute puppies!!

    Booking twin rooms 1 or 2 days ahead has actually been a bonus as we've secured private rooms and generally private bathrooms and been able to split the cost.. a luxury that would get quite expensive on your own!

    Tonight, we landed at a pearler called 'Peregrinando'. It's the most unique, gorgeous artsie B&B for 38€ each! The other bonus is that we get to enjoy a whole half day here because it is such a short walking day!

    The restaurants around us are deceiving... one looked a bit seedy, but upon entering, the food looked great with many options to choose from, and the owner was so friendly! So, it pays to stick your head in the door and not judge a book by its cover!    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    2
    Smoothie o'clock 💛'Win' the border collie đŸŸ31These vines caught our attention as they look like little people burying their heads in the sand! đŸ€Ł3Look at the little opening at the bottom of the door!33Tombs of kings & queens gone by1The choir chambers are on that 2nd level đŸŽ¶2Stunning cloisters - the stone lattice work made stunning patterns in the sunlight!4

    Day 11 - Navarette to Azofra

    1–2 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 17 °C

    The walk today was 23kms and a very pleasant meander through vineyards and farmland. 1hr in, I had a delish anti-inflammatory smoothie and a good cuddle with a border-collie called 'Win' đŸŸđŸ’™

    We went through a village called Najera and some fellow Aussies insisted we visit a very unique National monument called Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real, where the mausoleums for Kings and Infants way back from the 10th century are located! This place was incredible. The history here was just awe-inspiring!

    Then onwards, 6kms to Azofra, where upon entering the village, the cutest scene played out in front of us.... (see video đŸŸ)

    There were only 2 restaurants here and a pretty limited selection. The 1st we looked at had yummy pizzas pictured on the menu, but when the owner proceeded towards the freezer to pull them out, we opted for the other restaurants' paella instead đŸ„˜.... but I think this was also a microwave meal! đŸ€”

    Accommodation tonight is clean and nice, so off to sleep in broad daylight - at 9 pm - I go! 😮    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    2My 'fave' photo! This is just out of Santo Domingo
    3Camino nature art to welcome Pilgrims into Santo Domingo de la Calzada2Risotto lunch 😋Murals in Granon1Loving these old doors!GranonAccomodation for the night1Dinner1Looking through the other way!

    Day 12 - Azofra to Granon

    2–3 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 19 °C

    I've had a bit of a blah day today... my body is feeling it, and old injuries are flaring up.... but you just keep going right! 1 foot in front of the other, 1 step at a time!

    The clouds were filling up the sky with their full 50 shades of grey today, not helping my mood! I even got my poncho out for the first time when it started spitting! But thankfully, that's all it did.

    Today, I had to really remove myself from the pressure of the fast walkers ... that competitive side of me that wants to hurry along with them... but why?! That's where my work was today.... unravelling this pattern, slowing down & doing the pace that was best for ME!

    In fact, 4kms from the end today, Karen suggested that I lay down on a bench, so I took her advice and I rested! I actually drifted off for 10 minutes! I'm getting the hang of this siesta thing! 😮

    I took what will maybe become my fave camino photo today, I was quite proud of my creativity! It's probably been done before, but heh, whatever! I proudly shared the idea with other pilgrims! 😝

    Finally, I had a decent meal today, too! I must admit the food selection has been quite dismal, but today I had a yummy risotto for lunch, and a big garden salad for dinner! 😋... and of course, lots of patatas frittas! (Chippies)    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    Lots of street art today
    This is the region I'm in nowThe doors just keep coming!❀11Can you spot the cat?Street art in Belorado1Stork spotting!5More street art...Market day in BeloradoBarbies horse!Tonight's accommodation at St Anton Abad HostalYummy cream of zucchini soup 😋This heart was dedicated to my bro on his birthday today!!

    Day 13 - to Villafranca Montes de Oca

    3–4 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀ 20 °C

    After a decent day of fuelling up yesterday, today felt easier... despite having a 28km day ahead!

    We had 8 villages to go through, which would keep things interesting, but alas, a lot of walking close to the highway... drowning out the beautiful birdsong that I love so much! 🐩

    I don't quite understand how it works over here with days off, though... they shut up shop on Saturday arvo and pretty much stay closed until Tuesday!! They obviously know how to have a good rest day unlike us, BUT it's really not beneficial to pilgrims! 😂It does make finding something to eat really tricky too! đŸ€”

    We arrived at our accommodation - San Anton's Abad Hostel - after 8hrs of walking today, exhausted! We lay on the grass and did some yoga (Karen is a yoga instructor👌). It was really lovely - until I couldn't get up! đŸ€Ł... we seriously walk around like we've been horse riding all day... it's quite hilarious - in a painful kind of way!    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    2'Angel'... legend of a man!
    1Slowly chipping away at the kms left to walk!3Love the nature art people make along the way!1My dancing butterfly friend!What's a camino without a classic 'shadow' shot!2Butterflies everywhere today!Cutest Cafe in San Juan de Ortega.... I think it was in the Aussie camino movie 'The Way My Way!'1Ancient beauty1Love the bells atop this church in San Juan de Ortega3Snacking on our pre bought lunch supplies whilst waiting for the church to open!1These colourful houses brighten up everyone's day!1Artwork adorns walls everywhere!Just before I even saw this door, the song 'green door', started playing in my head!!Panoramic view of this eve's yoga spot!3Butterfly walking with me!Local villagers taking the kids for a walk! 🐐

    Day 14 - VF Montes de Oca to Atapuerca

    4–5 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 23 °C

    A magical day on Camino today ✚...

    Last night at dinner, we got talking to some Americans who were going on about the 'gruelling climb' tomorrow and that it would be 12kms without food & water ...so what did we do?.... yep, we mistakenly got on their bandwagon, stocked up on supplies and started dreading the next day! Big mistake and big lesson in letting others do them, and we do us!

    So we woke up this morning and headed off at 8.15am only to discover that said 'gruelling climb' was totally doable and that we CAN do hard things!

    And then at the top of the hill came some Camino Magic... there was a spanish man selling food, drink and art, so we decided to stop and chat while most others walked on by. So glad we did because this man was special. He asked where we were from, and when I said I was from Australia, he offered us a free big, red, juicy strawberry!🍓 ...he said, 'thank you soooo much (with praying hands 🙏) for visiting my country'... he was truly grateful that I had travelled from so far, far away just to walk across his country!

    He recited a poem that he said he made up on the spot đŸ€”... but he truly spoke from the heart. I wish I had recorded it, but it was one of those 'just enjoy this moment' ...moment! And to top it all off, guess what his name was?! .... Angel 😇 👌

    The day was just beautiful ... the countryside, oakwood forest, sunshine & people! I saw hundreds of heart-shaped rocks and just felt as light as a feather gliding along 'the way'. At one point, a butterfly joined me and danced across my path for several metres! (see video!) 🩋

    We did yoga in the most beautiful spot this evening next to an ancient church, atop a hill in a balmy 25° with sparrows flying overhead! 🧘‍♀ Then, at dinnertime, I had calamari and shared it with a local cat under the table ... because why not heh! đŸ˜ș

    Tonight we are staying in an old 200yo rural house - it's very rustic and FULL of charm! 💚

    Tomorrow, we hit the big city of Burgos. I had planned to have a rest day every week, but after 2 weeks of walking, I haven't felt I've needed one yet! But maybe in Burgos?! đŸ€”.... I hear it's a beautiful place!    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    Cathedral to be explored tomorrow!
    Burgos in the distance about 17kms away!2My missing banana ... found but never to be enjoyed by me! đŸ˜©Nice way to 'staHEART' the day! 💚More storks on Church top1Scenic alternative route into Burgos!Having a break, enjoying the serenity.....2Nice spot to sit and have a break right!!...But then this happens....WTF!? 🙄Biggest geese family ...so cute (see video)2See the bubba's! 💜This is everywhere... flying around like snow! But no hayfever reaction 👌Massive river stretch into BurgosAn amazing vego restaurant called Curcumin... springs rolls & guacamole went down a treat! 😋Stunning cathedral that we'll check out tomorrow!View from our balcony at 'Hotel Norte y Londres'Hotel foyerHotel Londres y NorteThis is about 9pm in streets of Burgos!1

    Day 15 - Atapuerca to Burgos

    5–7 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 27 °C

    The Case of the Missing Banana!! 🍌....
    So I bought the hugest banana yesterday evening for my kick-starter this morning. I was so excited because it really was a delicious looking banana!

    So I finished packing, locked up the house, put the key in the box, and walked off. Then I excitedly felt for my banana ....but it wasn't there! đŸ˜ČđŸ˜ŸđŸ˜© I was convinced an army of mice had stolen it, as I could hear some bags rustling during the night!

    I messaged the owner and asked him politely to let me know if he found a banana (just for closures sake!) A couple of hours later, he messaged to say he found it at the foot of the bed just out of sight... darn it! It's better than leaving my phone behind though I guess! (I still think the mouse army put it there to mess with my head though! 🐁😝)

    Just over 20kms to Burgos today from Atapuerca! A warmer day today, too, with 28° (20° by 10am!). I wasn't too excited about the terrain coming into a big city as it usually means lots of industrial area. However, we were fortunate enough to be told about an alternative route via the river!! We gladly took said nature route, and it really was pretty with lots of fauna to see, too! But wow, it was like 5kms of river in one straight line ... the feet were so sore!

    We've decided to stay for 2 nights here as it really is a beautiful city, and I'm pretty pumped about a huge sleep in tomorrow, too! 🙌

    We had booked Hostal Lars, but upon arriving, it was quite blah and not in the old town so we decided to move and booked 2nts at Hotel Londres & Nortes - so glad we did as I really love the old world charm of this hotel! đŸ€Ž    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    Cathedral entrance
    My accom - Hotel Nortes & Londres34°!! ... didn't feel as hot as Oz though!1Cathedral tour - mindblowing!The ceilings were my favourite!22The detail in these intricate carvings ... 👌Courtyard in the centreGiant tapestry1The 'ol boys gather on park benches in the evenings for some boy talk!2The most stunning tree canopy!7Nunch break?!The vibe here was just lovely!Cathedral.... so quiet!!

    Day 16 - Rest day in Burgos ❀

    6 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 29 °C

    There's something about Burgos! ...

    I'm really loving this city! It's not hustle and bustle like Barcelona and Logrono! And everyone has been so kind and helpful!

    The receptionist organised an appointment with a podiatrist for me as I have 2 blisters, but I got them early, so should be all good đŸ€ž.. she drained and dressed them and gave me some supplies for further treatment! She was amazing đŸ©·

    It hasn't been so much of a 'rest' day today as we've been running around doing laundry, finding chemists & supermarkets, seeing podiatrists, eating, cathedral touring & just sight seeing! There really is a lot to see & do here!

    We met a gorgeous Ozi couple - Karen & Matt - in the laundromat... from Gwelup of all places!! We chatted to them over an OJ while the laundry was being done, so that was lovely! Will definitely keep that connection alive when I return home!

    The Cathedral was mind-blowing - I was a tad obsessed with the artwork, sculpture & pure talent of these artists gone by.... the time and skill that went into these stone & wood carvings is just incredible! 🙌

    The city comes alive around 7pm! But especially this evening as it's a festive day (public holiday) tomorrow. You'll see in the photos that prior to this time, there's actually hardly any people around!

    I'd definitely visit Burgos again!! ❀    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    2Cute little house leaving Burgos
    University of BurgosBridge over major highwayMore storks!Lots of art using iron ore?!1Cute nun who blessed us!The pendant she gave usWheat upon wheat upon wheat!3Beautiful poppy field as we entered Hornillos del CaminoBed for the nightThese towns only really exist now to cater to the Pilgrims!Karen receiving a blessing2An old favourite poem by Rumi on the wall at the restaurant tonight4A pilgrims meal! Such a strange combination đŸ€”

    Day 17 - Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    7–8 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 27 °C

    Stage 1 - The Physical - is officially over today! 🙌 - the body is now 'prepped & conditioned' - apparently?! đŸ€”

    And so Stage 2 begins - The Mental! 😬 ...Today we start the 'Meseta' (plateau) - considered to be the 'mind phase' - known for its solitude and little distraction. An opportunity to go deeper with your thoughts and to reflect inward in quiet contemplation - eeekkkk - brace yourselves! This is going to get messy! đŸ€Ł

    It was a little hard to get started this morning, but off we trotted for our 20km day! Again, we detoured via the river as we left Burgos. We made the mistake of following another group and later realised it was the wrong way! So we lost about 1km cutting through the burbs to get back on track! 😂

    We came across this cute little Monastery - just before the Meseta outside of Rabe de Las Calzadas - and popped inside only to be greeted by the cutest little nun who blessed us and put a little necklace with a Santa Maria pendant around our neck! 🙏

    Tomorrow we're planning to stay at a monastery that doesn't take bookings and has no electricity 😳... so it should be interesting!

    It would have been the perfect place to see the Milky Way at night, BUT we're expecting more than 20mm of rain tomorrow! 😟    LĂ€s mer

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  • Itchy FeetShantelle's Camino50ResenĂ€r
    3
    Cute kittyElvis the huskyThe glorious meseta landscape today!... check out the bicigreno with the red umbrella!22Poppy and thistle I think?!2Coming into Hontana - a very pretty village4Hontana cathedralApproaching San Anton ruins2Raining in Castrojeriz2San Anton ruins - very enchanting placeThis is 'the sound' of the camino!! You hear it all day everyday...just beautiful!

    Day 18 - HdC to Castrojeriz

    8–9 juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☁ 23 °C

    (via San Anton ruins) ....Crazy day this one! đŸ€Ș

    No rain or grey skies in sight this morning! And the meseta was so beautiful.... I think it's easing us into it, though, as it won't always look this beautiful ... or maybe it will! đŸ€”
    I got some kitten cuddles this morning, too, which started me off splendidly! đŸŸ

    We had planned to stay at San Anton Monestary tonight... it's a 12th century ancient ruin with a very simple albergue.

    So we rocked up at midday and were told that they also had no water to bathe in. That's okay, we thought.... we already knew about no electricity, so it just added to the rusticness of the experience, right!?

    The 2 Brazilian hospitaleros, (people who volunteer their time to run albergues for 1 to 2 weeks) asked me if I could watch the place while they ducked into town to have a shower, as they hadn't had one for 3 days! No problemo, I said!

    They said they'd be back by 4pm. This was at 1.30 pm, so we had a lot of time to kill. We thought that once they were back, we could walk into town to the store and be back in time before the storm hit... did I fail to mention that part?!đŸ€Ł

    While they were gone, this American man came in looking for his credencial (camino passport) that he'd left behind earlier in the day.... he was most upset (actually, he was quite blunt and noticably flustered! đŸ«€) that they weren't around as he'd taken a taxi to get there.

    We couldn't give it to him as the brazilians had locked up the kitchen where it was sitting (I could see it through the window)... so, I got his details and said I'd keep him posted.

    Anyway they didn't come back until 5pm!!! ... by which time Karen had itchy feet again and just wanted to move, so we decided to pack up - very spontaneously - and walk very quickly into Castrojeriz about 3kms away with the storm on our tails! đŸ€Ł

    I took the guys passport with me as I knew he was in Castrojeriz but didn't know where exactly! We made 2 phone calls on the way to find accommodation and got a room at the 2nd one!

    As luck would have it, we had coincidentally booked the same hostel that he was staying in (out of the 15 in town!). When I gave it to him, he got quite emotional!

    It was nice to help a stranger out on camino and feel their gratitude in return ...he later emailed me to say I had restored his faith.. âœšïžđŸ™đŸ’œ    LĂ€s mer

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