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East Arnhem

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    • Day 54

      Gugari Rip • The Hole in the Wall

      June 2, 2023, Arafura Sea ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

      Auf der Route zum Drysdale Island queren wir Mittags die Inselkette von Raragala, Guluwuru und Wessel Marchinbar Island.

      Zwischen Raragala und Guluwuru Island hat sich durch Erosion über tausende von Jahren ein natürlicher Durchgang der Gugari Rip gebildet und ist für Schiffe unserer Größe geeignet den Weg nach Westen zu verkürzen. Die Bedingungen für die Durchfahrt müssen stimmen, kein Gegenverkehr im 60m breiten Kanal, kein Gegenwind und mit ablaufenden Wasser nach Tidenhöchststand die 1,2 Meilen schleunigst mittig durchsacken.

      Bei der Ankunft und dem ersten Blick durch den Gugari Rip kommt uns tatsächlich ein kleiner Segler entgegen. Auch dieser hat alle Bedingungen genutzt um durchzuschlüpfen und wir lassen ihn passieren.

      Jakob und ich starten unsere Drohnen am Eingang und dokumentieren unsere Fahrt an dieser engen Passage.
      Am Ende war das Landen oder besser das Einfangen der Drohnen das schwierigste an der ganzen Aktion. Den ich hatte meine maximale Flugreichweite noch auf 2.600m eingestellt und just in dem Moment des Landens blieb meine Drohne im Schwebeflug vier Meter über der Wasseroberfläche zurück und unsere VAVA-U entfernte sich sukzessive mit 3kt Fahrt vom schwebenden Kamerainsekt. Es kam schnell ein Abstand von 50 Metern zustande und Jakob schnallte es am schnellsten, stellte seinen Landeanflug ein und ging in die Warteschleife in der Luft, korrigierte bei mir die maximale Flugdistanz auf 6.000m und im zweiten Versuch sind beide Drohnen sicher am Steuerbordheck aus der Luft gefangen worden, der Puls normalisierte sich bei allen wieder.

      Nachmittags hat Jakob einen kleinen Videotrailer über unsere spannende Aktion erstellt.

      Link hier:
      https://youtu.be/hhjQFBwqpyo
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    • Day 52

      Gunyangara • Nhulunbuy

      May 31, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

      Um 11:00 Uhr ist nach zwei Tagen durch die Arafurasse Land in Sicht.

      Mit zurückgelegten 310sm bei 6,5kt Fahrt erreichen wir am Nachmittag unser Ziel Gunyangara eine Aborigines-Siedlung an dem Bergarbeiterort Nhulunbuy.
      Hier betreibt die Firma Rio Tinto im Tagebau eine Bauxitmine mit Aufbereitungsanlage und eigenem Verschiffungsterminal.
      Hier sehen wir aus erster Hand, wie im hohen Norden Australiens im Aboriginesland die Bodenschätze zu Geld gemacht werden. Der Ort hat 3.000 Einwohner und alles was man zum Leben braucht, bis hin zu einem abgeschatteten Schwimmbad mit 4x 50m Bahnen.
      Für uns ist es Station zum Auftanken von Proviant, es gibt einfach alles wie im Supermarkt einer Großstadt und auch Internet.

      Auf dem Rückweg vom Einkaufen gönnen wir uns noch ein pures Blondes im Gove Boat Club und danach düsen wir mit dem Dinghi zur VAVA-U.
      Heute gibt es sächsische Krautnudeln australischer Art vom Rushing Saxon.
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    • Day 56

      Arafurasee • Kurs 274° West

      June 4, 2023, Arafura Sea ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Zum ersten Mal haben wir Flaute in der Arafurasee.

      Mit Motor tuckern wir westwärts Richtung North Goulburn Island. Der Wind kommt achterlich mit 8kt und dies ist zu wenig um die 22t schwere VAVA-U anzutreiben.

      Der Rest ist schnell erzählt, die Sonne brennt zwölf Stunden mit 34°C, jeder reißt seine Ruderwache ab, der Proviant wird gecheckt, gegammeltes Gemüse und Obst entsorgt, der Sonnenuntergang ist bei klarster Sicht eine Augenweide, die Nacht ist lichtdurchflutet mit Vollmond, das Schiff zieht mit 5kt Fahrt Kurs 274° West.

      Zwei Höhepunkte sind zu berichten, zum Nachmittagskaffee hat Skipper Martin bayrische Brez‘n mit Obadzda gebacken und zubereitet, ich gönnte mir ein Bier dazu.
      Abends gart Gerhard schmackhaften Lammbraten nach Grazer Art mit Pellkartoffeln und grünen Bohnen.

      Es ist doch einiges los gewesen heute auf See. Just in dem Moment meiner Zeilen kommt Wind auf, alle Mann an Deck Genua und Großsegel setzten, Action !!!

      Es ist Mitternacht, ich starte meine Hundewache, morgen Mittag werden wir Goulborn Island erreichen.
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    • Day 54

      Drysdale Island • Der mit dem Hai tanzt

      June 2, 2023, Arafura Sea ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

      Nach dem Ablegen von Cotten Island und der Passage von Gugaro Rip segeln wir bis zum Sonnenuntergang mit 15kt Wind und 5kt Fahrt zum Ankern auf die Leeseite von Drysdale Island.

      Zum nachmittäglichen Kaffee ist heute ein Zimtapfelkuchen vormittags gebacken worden.
      Just in dem Moment als dieser aus dem Ofen kommt zeigt Karls Angel durch stärkste Biegung und ausrauschen der Schnur einen Biss an.

      Was jetzt kommt übertrifft alle bisherige Action auf unserer Expedition.

      Karl, Martin und Jakob versuchen den Fang einzuholen und geben alle vollsten Einsatz am schmalen Heck der VAVA-U.
      Das schwierigste ist das an Bord bekommen des 80cm langen Hais, ein Grauhai.

      Der mit dem Hai tanzt umschreibt die Aktion von Jakob mit dem Raubfisch in der Hand am besten. Klingt in diesen Zeilen alles locker fluffig, aber die Kraft und Schläge in echt, das messerscharfe Gebiss und die noch freiliegenden Angelhaken machen das Manöver gefährlich. Mit vereinten Kräften ist in einer Zahn-OP von zwei Minuten der Hacken entfernt und der Hai wird wieder in den Ozean entlassen.
      Alle an Bord sind wieder fasziniert und beeindruckt von der schieren Kraft der Haie hier in der freien Wildbahn der Arafurasee.

      Am Abend bereiten wir die letzte Portion des am 1. Mai gefangenen Thunfisches von 17kg zu und lassen den Tag mit der Durchfahrt und dem Haitanz nochmals Revue passieren.

      Morgen wollen wir Galiwin'ku an der Südwestspitze von Wessel Island ansteuern.
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    • Day 247

      Nhulunbuy

      June 11, 2019, Arafura Sea ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      750 km Gravelroad liegen hinter uns. Wir sind in Nhulunbuy angekommen, wo wir die nächsten 10-14 Tage bei Familie Gurruwiwi als Volunteers aushelfen werden. Djalu Gurruwiwi ist eine Legende und hat mit seiner Musik bereits die halbe Welt bereist. Wir helfen beim Bau von Yidakis (Didgeridoos).Read more

    • Day 97

      Baringura - Little Bondi Beach

      July 23, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Our first ocean swim since we left home 97 days ago. Fabulous.
      There is no guarantee that Crocs won’t visit, so we will keep our eyes open.

      We will stay on the beach 2 nights with Jaqs, Max and Sampson the part Red, part Blue cattle dog. There are only a few other campers here because I think the process of permit registration with The Dhimurru Aboriginal Corporation scares people away. Who knew they were such skilful and confounding bureaucrats.

      41k out of town on progressively smaller roads then deflate the tyres for the last bit onto the beach. I don’t plan on doing much until beer o’clock except some Frisbee, swimming, yoga and a headland walk.

      Time Machine update: one year later this article appeared online. This pristine beach was not impacted while we were there, but we did see evidence of this kind of thing while we were near Cooktown Qld. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-07-23/plastic-…
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    • Day 79

      Last days in Nhulumbuy

      July 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

      We took advantage of the cooler weather to explore some areas that we had not had time to visit.

      We walked around the Town Lagoon (Gaynaru Wetlands), and drove about 15 minutes past the golf course to Galaru (East Woody), Dharrpamiwuy (Middle Beach), Wirrwawuly (Cape Wirrawol). Not much is open in town on a Sunday, only Woollies and the servo. We spent a quiet afternoon staying out of the wind. The nights have been cooler, and we have not had to use the air conditioner.

      Monday, and the wind is still strong, so we explored further afield. We drove out on the Central Arnhem Road about 30kms to the turnoff to Barinura (Little Bondi Beach), Numuy (Turtle Beach), Garanhan (Macassan Beach), Binydjarrna (Daliwuy Bay), and Wathawuy (Goanna Lagoon).

      Each of these locations has a small number of remote camping sites which need to be booked and paid for online. You cannot book a campsite unless you have a Dhimurru Visitor Access Permit, which allows you to travel into restricted aboriginal areas.

      To travel into these restricted areas, you need a Dhimurru Permit. We purchased a 3-day permit to allow us to travel and sightsee. Even though we had heard from other travellers that no-one checks, I was concerned that if something happened to the vehicle/insurance, we at least did have permission to be in the area. Easy process online, permit issued immediately on payment of $39 for a 3-day permit. Update: no-one checked our permit.

      I do love sunsets, but we have not seen a nice sunset while we have been here, because the bay that the campground is situated on does not have the sun setting over the water, so tonight we took a short drive and found a spot on a sand dune not far from the caravan park, where we watched our first Nhulumbuy sunset, while enjoying some prawns and a drink while watching the sun set behind the clouds. We mostly sat in the car as it was still too windy outside.

      The weather has been cooler (about 24 degrees during the day), but the ‘feels like’ temperature is about 17 degrees due to the strong winds. We have had a couple of quiet days due to the change in weather, and at one stage even thought we might leave a day earlier than planned. The forecast for Tuesday is getting better and by Wednesday the wind should have dropped and the rough seas should have eased, so we decided to sit it out. This also gave Theo an opportunity to give the van a general check over and grease and adjust the brakes, and other small jobs.

      Tuesday night, we went to Middle Beach to watch the sun set and were lucky enough to see a pod of dolphins swim close to shore. We then had dinner at the Walkabout Tavern in town, which is just a typical pub.

      In Nhuhulbuy, you must produce your ID on entering any licenced premises, and it is scanned. It was a pretty ordinary/standard pub meal. We have been eating at the Boat Club and the meals there are very nice.

      Tomorrow, Wednesday is our last day here, and we hope to go fishing in the tinny. It has been tied up to the boat ramp for the past 10 days. It is pretty safe here, but we have padlocked the motor up and removed all the fishing gear just to be sure.

      Wednesday, and we woke to a much better-looking day, had an early breakfast, then went out on the bay and did not come in until about 2pm. Theo hooked up 5 small sharks, which were all returned to the water, but nothing else despite trying several different locations. We saw a couple of large turtles, but did not see any crocs.

      It was nice to spend our last day relaxing on the water, but all good things must come to an end, and it was time to bring the tinny in, wash it down, pack everything away and get ready to leave tomorrow.

      We enjoyed a last dinner at the Boat Club with our new neighbours Karen and Trevor from Orange, who arrived last night and are staying for 3 weeks, then we headed back to the caravan for an early night. It is so nice having the Boat Club next to the camping ground, no need to drive into town for a meal.

      We have enjoyed our 11 day stay in Nhulumbuy, fishing, exploring and simply relaxing. We believe that when the mining operation ceases in 2030, there will be lots of changes in the town, and some have started already. I will do another entry regarding the mining operations in Gove shortly.
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    • Day 74

      Gove

      July 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Sunday 16th

      Sunday was washing and cleaning up day.
      We discovered this morning that our portable induction cooktop, which I use all the time was not working. We don’t think it liked all the corrugations on the road up here. Theo (aka, Mr Fixit) pulled it apart and was able to repair it by borrowing a portable soldering iron from the neighbour behind. I am so happy that it is now working as I am pretty sure that we would not be able to replace it here.

      Rick then mentioned that he had a problem with his electric hotplate in his caravan, so he and Theo spent an hour or so crawling around under the van and in cupboards and managed to locate the problem. It is now working. Rick was so happy, he shouted us drinks with our dinner at the Boat Club.

      Tomorrow, we plan to drive out to the Yirrkala Art Centre, about 26kms from here, as I would really love to bring home some local art. Then maybe fishing in the afternoon.

      We have eaten at the Boat Club the last two nights, but it is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays so will eat at home tomorrow night. Bugga, that means I have to cook!

      Tuesday 18th
      We have been asking the caretakers if there is any chance of extending our stay, and today Danny said that we can stay 3 more nights, but tomorrow Tuesday they are full. He offered to let us move next to the camp kitchen for one night, then move to Site 12 for 3 more nights. We packed up and moved to the grassy area next to the camp kitchen, and Pat and Rick packed up to leave.

      We sadly farewelled them, as they could not extend, and exchanged details so we can keep in touch. We had such a great time with them and loved their company and had so much fun and so many laughs. We were all like-minded, and Theo and Rick had a real ‘bromance’ happening. Rick said he ‘had a mate who drove a Ranger, Rob, he’s a good guy’, so many times that we finished the sentence for him every time he started talking about Theo’s ranger. Rick was a retired engineer, world travelled, with several degrees and interests, and Theo hung @#$% on him and Rick hung @#$% on Theo. All in fun, and we were always laughing. Pat said on leaving that she felt that we had packed 6 years-worth of dinners into 4 nights.

      As we are now staying longer, we had to go online to sort out our NLC transit permit which expires on 22nd July. Turns out it was easy, I found the number and rang the office, quoted my permit number and it was extended over the phone.

      Also, a Liquor permit is required to buy take-away alcohol. We did not arrange this before arriving as we thought we were only staying 3 nights and brought enough alcohol with us, but when we extended our stay, we needed to buy some more beer. The permit is issued by the Dept of Industry, Tourism & Trade in Darwin. Information is online, but the application form needs to be printed, scanned and then emailed with a copy of your driver’s licence.

      We don’t have a printer, so I rang the office and Jodie suggested that we could get the form from one of the offices in town. We went to the Visitor Centre, and KK was very helpful. I completed the form, she copied my licence, then we went around the corner and put the application form in the letter drop box. 3 hours later, I received notification by email that my permit had been approved. Now all I had to do was produce my licence in the bottle shop and it would be scanned to see the status of my permit. Easy. And no restrictions on what we could buy. Thirsty Camel, here we come.....

      While waiting for our site to be vacated, we went out in the boat, and dropped the line in for a couple of hours but had no nibbles. The water got very choppy, so we headed in. I got drenched every time we hit a wave, and really appreciated the long hot shower when we got back to camp.

      In the afternoon, we drove past the wharf and walked down to the beach and fished from the rocks, but nothing was caught except a small turtle wanting to eat our squid bait for a quick meal. We let him have the bait and released him to go on his way. This is the second turtle Theo has snagged on his fishing line, the first one was at Etty Bay about 12 years ago.

      After a long walk along the beach, then dinner and drinks at the Club, we had an early night. During the night we both became very itchy and realized that we had been attacked by sandflies. We wondered whether we got bitten while walking on the beach, or at the Club but are now pretty sure they may have come through our flyscreen door or windows during the night on the new site.
      We both counted over 35 bites. Theo’s bites are itchy red lumps, but mine are driving me out of my mind. I have an allergy to them, and they swell to the size of a 20c or 50c piece. Itchy as hell. We went to the chemist and got some cream and antihistamines, and then had a lazy afternoon.

      We turned on the air conditioner for the first time ever, and we had it on all afternoon and plan to leave it on tonight, so we don’t have to open the door or windows. We didn’t get any bites at our other site which had full sun, but the new site has more garden and is close to a sandy track. I sprayed some barrier/surface spray on all the fly screens and door and am not taking any chances with the horrible little insects coming inside.

      Early morning and late afternoon, we now coat ourselves with Bushman's, Heavy Duty 40% Deet, turn on the Thermacel, light mozzie coils, or all of the above.
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    • Day 147

      Garma

      July 29, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Wow, what an experience Garma was.
      Garma is one of Australia’s biggest and most publicised Indigenous event. Over 2000 people come to the site in East Arnhem Land for 4 days of workshops, music, dance, presentations and learning about Yolgnu culture and traditions.
      We arrived onsite at the beautiful festival site near Nhulunbuy with 100 fellow vollies 5 days before the festival started. We were then split up into different squads and put on a variety of jobs like erecting tents, helping putting up lighting, landscaping, cleaning over 1000 chairs and the like. Within our squads we got to know our teams really well and formed some incredible friendships, there is certain type of bonding and comradery that’s comes from sharing full days of work in the hot sun doing repetitive and, at times, menial work. As well as sharing all our mealtimes together, there was so much laughter and quality conversation - it very much filled our cups to the brim!

      Then the festival started and we swapped into our festival roles, I was on the info desk and Pete was on Rapid Response team (I.e. fixing all the stuff that gets broken or needs attending to). Outside our working hours, we saw lots of incredible traditional dancing, as well great music by William Barton, Kee’ahn, King Stingray and more and amazing cultural discussions and talks. It was so beautiful to see that despite the many challenges that the community faces, Yolgnu culture is very strong and they love to share it with the outside world.
      It was then all over in a whirlwind and everyone was heading home after 12 days of learning, companionship, cultural immersion and good, wholesome labour 😁 it was such an awesome awesome experience, we couldn’t recommend the volunteering at Garma highly enough!
      (I was enjoying myself so much that I often forgot to take photos, so some of these are from fellow vollies)
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    • Day 69

      Nhulumbuy

      July 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

      We were on the road by 9am, after saying bye for now to Pat and Rick.

      The Central Arnhem Road (CAR) went from very, very good to goddam awful, with several memorable sections having extremely bad corrugations. Just when we thought that we could not drive over another corrugation, about 30kms from Nhulumbuy we drove onto the bitumen, and it was a smooth trip from then on.

      Nhulumbuy (pronounced Nool-un-boy), is the name of the town and Gove is the name of the peninsula, the two names are often used. We are staying at the Manyimi Campground next door to the Gove Boat Club, which is about 10kms from township of Nhulumbuy.

      Bit of history. Cape Arnhem is named after the ship the ‘Arnhem’ which sailed into the Gulf of Carpentaria in 1623. The ship was named after the city of Arnhem in the Netherlands.
      Matthew Flinders met the Macassan trading fleet near Nhulumbuy when he was circumnavigating Australia in 1803.

      In 1963 the Federal Government approved the use of the land for a bauxite mine and a deep-water port was established in the late 1960’s and was managed by Rio Tinto. The refinery closed in 2014. Rio Tinto’s mining operation in Gove will be done by 2030, the mining will be finished, and the bauxite machinery pulled down and scrapped. On our way in, we drove past large areas of open cut bauxite mines.

      Nhulumbuy has a population of 3,500 people and is the fourth largest settlement in the Northern Territory.

      We travelled such long way to get here. Nhulumbuy is 4000 kms from Melbourne as the crow flies, but we have been zig-zagging our way here and have covered nearly 12,000 kms so far. This is one of the most remote travel destinations we have been to in Australia, besides Cape York. As we were driving in, we felt that the road was worse that the road to Cape York although it is being continuously graded, and depending on when you travel depends on your opinion of the road.

      We had a quick drive around the town, and we saw several schools including a Christian college, a primary and a high school, large hospital, medical services, Amcal chemist, Thirsty Camel and BWS, hotels, huge public swimming pool, bakery, several sports ovals, Centrelink, Government offices etc. Unfortunately, no Bunnings, but there is a well-stocked Woollies supermarket!

      Our campsite at the Manyimi Campground was great. We have a waterfront view of the beautiful bay, we are right next door to the Gove Boat Club, where meals and drinks are available, and the day we arrived there was a car show and music, so we went over to the Boat Club to check it out and spent an hour or so chatting to locals. Great timing.

      Pat and Rick are our next-door neighbours, and arrived shortly after us. They are here for 3 nights, same as us, so we will be in for a few drinks and laughs.

      We are hoping to get the tinny out on the beautiful little bay. Danny the caretaker tells us that there is a small crocodile in the bay, but he stays on the other side. Danny also said he caught two coral trout in the bay in his tinny which is smaller than ours, so Theo is keen to get his boat in the water.
      The water is so clear and a magnificent colour aqua-blue. It looks very enticing, but we always remember that there are warning signs and crocodiles are in the area. Fun fact: Since 1979 there have been 2 fatal crocodile attacks at Nhulumbuy.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    East Arnhem

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