• Benni Kircher

A Curiosity Ride

Howdy! 🚴‍♂️ Read more
  • Howdy Asia!

    May 8, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I was really looking forward to continue my journey after 6 days in Istanbul. Instead of cycling 70km through the city, I caught the ferry to Yavela. I had never thought that almost the entire ferry ride would go along the coast of Istanbul. The dimension of this city is just breathtaking.
    I arrived in Yavela. That means bye bye Europe and howdy Asia! Yes, that feels like a real milestone!
    Luckily, I got to meet the boys again and we cycle together for another day. But the next day, it’s time for me to follow again my own rhythm. We had a fantastic time and hopefully our routes will cross again soon.

    Anatolia, which constitutes most of the Asian part in Turkey offers numerous high plateaus and steep mountain climbs. As of now, it’s not necessarily the kilometers that matter but the elevation gain and particularly the gravel roads that slow down my progress. But this doesn’t matter, I enjoy the views and lone sections very much.

    And by the way, the Turkish people are very generous and talkative. Invitations for a tea, Turkish coffee or a coke happen every day. Sometimes people even buy you chocolate in the supermarkets or shower you with fruits on the road.
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  • Vast landscapes and shelter

    May 10, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    For the first time since the start of my trip, I feel a little homesick. Yes, I miss my family and friends. I knew that those times would come. But they also go. A journey like this has its ups and downs and this is fine. And yet, I am exactly where I want to be - experiencing the adventure of my life.

    Besides, I have reached those vast landscapes with stunning views. This must be the beginning of no man‘s land.

    During the day, I noticed a few storm clouds by the horizon. The weather forecast was not very reliable in recent days and I trusted my instinct. Luckily, I didn’t pitch my tent on a mountain but cycled some more kilometers hoping to find somewhat shelter. There’s a gas station which I headed for. The gas station attendant came straight to me and talked something in Turkish which of course I didn’t unterstand. After a few gestures and words in Turkish, he understood that I was looking for a place to sleep. He pointed to an abandoned building right next to the station. AWESOME! This is more than enough!
    While I was preparing my dinner, his wife came by with a plate of rice, chicken, vegetables and yogurt. She insisted that I would take it. I gratefully accepted the meal. After two dinners, I am caught with a full stomach in my office chair which I had found before. No problem, the veranda is the perfect spot to watch the happenings at the gas station and the thunder storm from a safe distance.
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  • Gänsehaut-Tag

    May 11, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Die Nacht an der Tankstelle war sehr erholend. Ich bedanke mich noch einmal bei der Familie und breche wie immer früh auf.

    Die unendlich weite Landschaft und die verlassenen Straßen machen mich einfach sprachlos. Ich komme aus dem Staunen gar nicht mehr heraus und ich genieße es sehr.

    In der Stadt Kulu angekommen steuere ich den ersten Supermarkt an. Es ist Zeit für das zweite Frühstück. Ich wollte gerade aus dem Supermarkt raus und da werde ich auch schon auf Deutsch von Halil angesprochen. Er lädt mich direkt zum Mittagessen bzw. zweiten Frühstück ein. Halil wurde in Wien geboren und hat quasi sein ganzes Leben mit seiner Familie in Österreich verbracht. Nach einem schweren Arbeitsunfall verbringt er jetzt etwas Zeit mit seiner Tochter in der Türkei.
    Nach dem Essen möchten wir uns gerade verabschieden und da kommt ein Mann auf uns zu. Er spricht uns an und Halil übersetzt für mich. Auch er möchte mich zum Mittagessen und Tee einladen. Ich überlege kurz, lehne dann allerdings dankend ab. Das sind die schwierigsten Momente für mich. Ich weiß wie wichtig das hier für die Menschen ist und es fällt mir unglaublich schwer, solche Einladungen abzulehnen. Allerdings kann ich nicht jede Einladung annehmen, ich muss schließlich auch etwas vorankommen. Zum Glück scheint es mir der Mann nicht übel zu nehmen.

    Nachdem ich die Stadt verlassen hatte, bin ich am Salzwassersee Tuz Gölü angekommen. Im Hinblick auf die Natur ist das bisher definitiv das Highlight auf meiner Reise. Diese mystische Landschaft und Stille hat etwas ganz besonderes. Ich hatte vor hier zu schlafen, doch leider holt mich schon wieder ein Gewitter ein. Ich finde Zuflucht in einem verlassenen Häuschen. Ich schlafe ein und verbringe hier den halben Nachmittag. Danach fahre ich noch ein paar Kilometer in die nächste Stadt und gönne mir wieder einen Döner.
    Der Regen hört leider nicht auf und es ist bereits dunkel. Ich fahre zur nächsten Tankstelle mit der Absicht noch einen Tee zu trinken, bevor ich dann mein Zelt am nächsten See aufschlage. Als ich ein paar Runden drehe und mich etwas umsehe, fahre ich unabsichtlich gegen einen Holzbalken (Ich war sehr langsam und es ist nichts passiert). Sofort eilt mir ein Mann zur Hilfe. Er stellt sich als Mohammed Ali vor und fragt ob ich Hilfe brauche. Ich verneine, doch da packt er mich auch schon sanft am Arm und zerrt mich unter das Dach. Bestellt hatte ich noch nichts, doch als ich Platz nehme, wird mir von seiner Frau auch schon der Tee gebracht. Zwei Minuten später das Essen und eine Cola. Dann nochmal ein Tee, dann Kaffee, wieder ein Tee und zum Abschluss Süßigkeiten. Ähhh, okay!? (Bezahlen darf ich übrigens nicht, ich bin Gast). Währenddessen werde viele Selfies gemacht und sie zeigen mir Fotos von ihrer Familie und ihren Autos - Mercedes, Volkswagen und BMW. Als ich ihnen signalisiere, dass ich noch ein paar Kilometer fahren muss und einen Schlafplatz suche, werde ich auch schon wieder am Arm gepackt. Sie zeigen mir einen Platz für mein Zelt. Diesen nehme ich sehr gerne an. Doch dann werde ich schon wieder gepackt. Sie haben es sich anders überlegt und jetzt soll ich im Gebetsraum von der Tankstelle schlafen. Sie geben noch kurz den Wachleuten Bescheid, dann gibt es nochmal einen Tee und schon liege ich auf dem Teppich im Gebetsraum an einer Tankstelle.

    Heute ist viel passiert, das muss ich erstmal verarbeiten. Jedenfalls bin ich all den Menschen unglaublich dankbar. Und das mit den Tankstellen gefällt mir immer besser.
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  • On my way to Cappadocia

    May 12, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Along my way to Cappadocia, I took a break at a mosque in Selime. It didn’t take long and Seyfullah, the Imam of Selime showed up. He invited me to watch a prayer followed by a dinner at his house. We had a deep conversation about religion, war and life itself.

    Then I continued my journey to Cappadocia. What I would experience there exceeded my expectations by far.
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  • Cappadocia 3.0

    May 15, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Well, and then the real magic happened. I was still watching the hot air balloons when suddenly a car came down the hiking trail. No way, how did this guy managed to get down there? Okay, it’s no local but a tourist with a rental car. This happens, thanks to Google Maps. I didn’t know which spectacle to follow - the hot air balloons or the guy trying to make a turn around. To keep it short, a strong team of seven people was needed to get him out. It was so much fun! And I must admit, the way he managed to drive all the way back up was impressive. That’s driving skills!
    (I got the permission from the guy to upload the footage here).

    In the meantime, we had some time to talk about our travel plans. Most of them aim for Kyrgyzstan as well. Since my initial plan does not seem to work because of visa and entry restrictions, I have found a doable alternative. More to come soon!
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  • Weitere besondere Momente

    May 15, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    In Kappadokien konnte ich genug Kraft tanken, um meine Reise fortzusetzen. Einige Höhenmeter lagen vor mir und erneut wurde ich mit einer tollen Kulisse belohnt. Der Berg Erciyes mit einer Höhe von 3917m bei der Stadt Kayseri war dabei etwas ganz besonders.

    Am Ende des Tages habe ich mich dann auf einen ruhigen Abend am See gefreut. Falsch gedacht. Ich wurde von fünf freundlichen Türken zum Barbecue und Whisky trinken eingeladen. Im hohen Tempo wurden die Gläser nachgefüllt, bis bei Einbruch der Dunkelheit stilvoll zu lauter Türkischer Musik getanzt wurde. Tanzen konnte man das bei mir wohl eher nicht nennen. Die Party war voll im Gange und da wird mir plötzlich ein Handy in die Hand gedrückt. Ich soll einen bereits laufenden Videoanruf mit einer mir unbekannten Frau fortführen, damit wir uns kennenlernen können und ich sie anschließend mit nach Deutschland nehmen kann. Wir unterhalten uns kurz und sind uns dann aber beide einig, dass daraus nichts wird.
    Na jedenfalls haben wir uns alle prächtig amüsiert und ich habe noch das ein oder andere nützliche Wort auf Türkisch dazu gelernt (davon sollte ich besser nicht alle in der Öffentlichkeit verwenden).

    Nach diesem Abend geht mein Wecker am nächsten Morgen ausnahmsweise eine Stunde später um 7:30 Uhr los. Zum Glück habe ich keinen Schädel und ich hab wieder so richtig Bock auf‘s Radeln.

    Während meiner Mittagspause hält plötzlich ein Auto neben mir an. Eine Frau und ein Mann steigen aus. Die Frau spricht Deutsch und erkundigt sich inwiefern sie mir helfen können oder ob ich irgendwas brauche. Ich bedanke mich mehrmals und sage dass ich nichts brauche. Schließlich bin ich pappsatt nach meinem monströsen Suçuk-Sandwich. Die Frau möchte mir dennoch eine Freude machen und holt eine Tüte mit Brot, Obst und Gemüse aus dem Auto. „Es ist nicht viel aber diese Tüte kommt von Herzen. Pass gut auf dich auf.“ Während sie mir die Tüte überreicht, hat sie ein paar Tränen in den Augen. Ich bedanke mich erneut und bin danach sprachlos. Das sind so besondere Momente, die mich noch eine lange Zeit beschäftigen.
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  • Northeastern Turkey

    May 19, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    The last few legs have included many climbs as I am now in the mountainous northeastern part of Turkey. My focus has thus been pretty much on cycling and eating. Oh, I need a lot of calories these days and particularly dirty fuel - sugar!

    Of course, I still have my daily interactions with locals and appreciate their invitations very much. Sometimes I felt bad as it happened to me twice that people paid for my groceries. They don’t even want a penny…
    Anyway, my highlight was the encounter with Fatih from Demirözü. Fatih is not only a police officer but also the personal security guard of the district governor. I was just having my lunch and didn’t notice that I was sitting in front of a police station. Fatih came by and we had a little chat. He invited me to come upstairs into the police station to continue my lunch at a decent table (normally I just sit on benches in a park or on the ground in front of supermarkets) - he brought cheese, olives and a coke. Fatih also offered me to stay or just take a shower at his home. Latter I agreed since it has been 11 days since my last shower.

    With a fresh smell and full belly, I left Demirözü towards Bayburt. Quick stop at the supermarket where I filled up my supplies before heading to the last remote mountain stage in Turkey.
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  • Last few days in Turkey

    May 21, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Oh Turkey, you made my muscles sore on the very last day. Eventually I got back to the point where I truly enjoyed the steep climbs that came along with suffering, pain and lots of sweat. Seems like I must be careful that this cycling thing does not turn into an addiction.

    Anyway, I spent the last three days on mastering the last mountain pass and cycling through a giant canyon with little civilization. When I planned this route, I didn’t know that this section would include many tunnels. No kidding, I am certain that I cycled at least through 40-50 tunnels each 50 to 5.800 meters long. Some felt never-ending. It was a pleasure and refreshing though.

    Finally, I arrived at the Black Sea where I cycled the last few kilometers in Turkey before crossing the border to Georgia. It has been a long way until this point and my tachometer now shows a distance of over 5200km and 43000m of elevation gain. Needless to say, I have shared plenty of wonderful stories and do not have to go into further detail. Thank you Turkey for being a special chapter in my narrative!
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  • Arrived in Georgia

    May 22–24, 2024 in Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    My first destination in Georgia is Batumi where I would take one day off. There, I need to arrange some visa applications, recharge my physical as well as electronic batteries and get other things done.
    I was astonished at my arrival and fell in love with this city right away. Located at the sea with the mountains in the background is an ideal place for every sports lover. On top of that, Batumi seems to be a booming city where various cultures clash creating that special vibe. The culinary variety together with typical Georgian food is a must-see for all food lovers out there. The food is just exquisite!
    Gambling, hotels, crypto currency and casinos seem to be quite a thing here too. Certainly nothing for me, but it’s interesting to perceive those stark contrasts with the poverty on one side of the city and the flourishing one on the other.
    To me, it feels more like a city in the Caribbean with all those colorful buildings, palm trees, and the sea. It’s nothing I had expected to be found here in Georgia. Even better, now I am more curious to find out what else this country has to offer.
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  • First days in Georgia

    May 25, 2024 in Georgia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    It took me some time to really feel comfortable here in Georgia. The traffic is just nuts and some dogs are really aggressive and even try to catch your legs. But the people and magnificent landscapes make everything worth it. I was invited by locals to drink, eat and sleep at their places. Their tolerance level for vodka is impressive!

    My first destination in the mountains would be the notorious Zagari Pass at an elevation of 2.600m. I didn’t know if it was doable this early of the year. There’s still a lot of snow and mud up there and the road is frequently hit by avalanches. I cannot challenge nature in that sense and if it’s not doable, I would have to cycle back 140km or try to hitchhike. Let’s see!
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  • On my way to Zagari Pass

    May 27, 2024 in Georgia ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The road to Mestia is partially in bad condition and leads me through a long canyon. After arriving in Mestia, I noticed a truck with a German registration number. I went there and got to know Matthias, Ingmar and Nina from Munich. They’re also heading towards Zagari Pass but are unsure if it’s doable. After talking to a few locals, they assured us that it would be challenging but possible. Great news! We agreed that we would meet in Ushguli again to spend the evening together before tackling the Zagari Pass early next morning.

    Ushguli is a Unesco Village located at an altitude of about 2100 meters and right at the foot of Shkahra (5200 meters), Georgia‘s highest mountain. It is said that Ushguli is Europe‘s highest village 500 meters below the summit of Zagari Pass.

    Our camp close to Ushguli rewarded us with a stunning view to Mount Shkahra. We were joined by a few dogs that protected our camp from other people and especially curious/angry cows (I was happy about that because I’ve heard stories from other cyclists that their tent was wrecked by a herd of cows). We had a few beers, rode a horse from a local and eventually agreed that our Zagari Pass adventure would start at 7:00 am the next morning. We shall soon find out what lies ahead!
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  • The Zagari Mud Festival

    May 28, 2024 in Georgia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    As we agreed the eve before, we headed to the summit at 07:00 am sharp. I joined the guys and we put my bike at the back of the truck. The gravel road to the summit was fine but the conditions at the very top were daunting. Nothing but mud, water streams and mud holes. We got stuck three times at 2.600 meters of altitude. Luckily, a professional rallye driver from Dubai was also up there at this time and helped us. We did a lot of digging and used the sand boards. Two times it went well. However, the third time the truck got stuck with a real bad tilt angle. There’s no way we would make it out this time. After five hours up there, it was high time to call support. Of course, there was no reception up there. So I got my bike, cycled all the way down to Ushguli and went to some locals who called the police right away. Afterwards, I cycled back up and informed the guys that help was coming. Two hours later, three guys from the mountain rescue came up with their pickup and inspected the situation. Their looks I will never forget! There’s no chance to get a heavy machine up there today. It was already late at that time. So the guys headed back to Ushguli and I was allowed to cross the Zagari Pass after the mountain rescue took a photo of me and my passport (I don’t know why, maybe because in case I got lost).

    It was truly a nerve-wracking experience up there. We were lucky that the weather was stable without too much sun or rain as there’s still the chance of land slides and avalanches. But anyway, 30 hours later I received a message with a video that the truck was rescued. What a relieve, I danced of joy! The way downhill on the other side was still challenging because of the mud and the descent to the right.

    I think that was only a small glimpse of what I would still experience along my journey and the Pamir Highway in Kyrgyzstan in particular.
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  • Georgia tests my limit

    May 30, 2024 in Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Cycling in the northern part of Georgia with steep climbs can be real intense. Especially if you repeat that every day. Along with the sudden heat that has arrived, it was even more challenging. I was shattered and my legs didn’t want to bring me any further. It was then a serendipity to meet Silvie and Rick from the Netherlands again (I met them in Cappadocia when the other car got stuck). They made a little detour with their motor bikes and brought food since I was just too tired to cycle further. We had many stories to share since our last encounter in Cappadocia. Their next stop is the Zagari Pass! Take care, you’ll rock it!

    One day later I got a message from Ingmar that they are close to Agara. They would spend the night there. Coincidentally, I was there already and had the same plan. That was just such a lovely moment when I saw those guys coming in the truck. Of course we had to toast to the successful salvage with some beers.
    Meeting these warm-heated people again felt extremely good and has inspired me for the remaining kilometers to Tbilisi. It’s those little things that sometimes lift you from a low.

    And one final thing to mention, I had my very first puncture after 5650 kilometers. The bike is still doing well like on the first day. Couldn’t be any better.
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  • Rest in Tbilisi

    Jun 1–4, 2024 in Georgia ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    The break in Tbilisi was very much needed. Luckily, my sister‘s friend Anja lives there with her husband Jean-Marc and daughter Ninon. They made me feel very comfortable and it felt a little like home for the time being. I was spoiled with lots of delicious food, beverages and my own room. What a luxury!
    We spent the Sunday together in Tbilisi. I was amazed by the Charme of the city with all the art, fancy buildings and surroundings. Anyway, for the rest of the days I was not really into sightseeing and taking photos. It was simply a pleasant quality time with Anja, Jean-Marc and Ninon.
    It was such a lovely stay and I cannot say how grateful I am for everything you did for me. I really hope to visit you again in Georgia.

    However, there was one thing I had to take care of - picking up my 30-day visa at the Iranian Embassy. As planned, my route will lead me through Iran and I am curious to find out what lies ahead.

    My next stop is Yerevan where another Embassy awaits me. More on that to come soon!
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  • Butterkeks-Power

    June 5, 2024 in Georgia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Ich setze meine Reise am späten Dienstagnachmittag fort. Ich möchte noch am Freitag in Jerewan ankommen, um auf die Botschaft von Turkmenistan zu gehen. Dort hoffe ich sehr darauf, ein 5-Tage Transit Visum zu bekommen.

    Natürlich lässt mich Georgien aber nicht so schnell gehen. Wie immer gilt es noch einige Höhenmeter zu bewältigen. Da die Straße von meiner ursprünglich geplanten Route an der Grenze zu Armenien von einer Schlammlawine verschüttet wurde, wähle ich eine andere Route. Dort ist viel weniger los und die Landschaft ist malerisch. Ich komme durch viele kleine verlassene Ortschaften und mal wieder gibt es für einige Kilometer weder Restaurants noch Supermärkte. Nach einiger Zeit komme ich an einem Minimarkt vorbei. Eine Dame kommt heraus und signalisiert mir gleich, dass es hier nicht viel gibt. Immerhin spricht sie Deutsch und wir können uns ein wenig unterhalten. Ich möchte anschließend dennoch kurz einen Blick in den Minimarkt werfen, irgendwas muss es hier doch geben. Tatsächlich gibt es außer Keksen, Schokolade, Tomatensaucen, Cola und ein paar weiteren Sachen tatsächlich nicht viel. Sie empfiehlt mir die Russischen Butterkekse und eine Cola. Ich willige ein und freue mich auf das Festmahl. Nachdem ich die 375g Packung vertilgt habe und wir uns ein wenig unterhalten haben, schlafen wir beide vor dem Minimarkt ein - die Dame auf ihrem Stammplatz und ich im Sitzen auf dem Boden (wer mich kennt, weiß, dass ich das ganz gut kann). Nach dem Powernap verabschiede ich mich und fahre weiter.
    Sicherlich war die Mahlzeit nicht zufriedenstellend und dennoch bin ich froh überhaupt etwas bekommen zu haben. Solche Situationen kommen immer wieder mal vor, das ist halt so. Überraschenderweise entfalten die Butterkekse ihre volle Wirkung und ich komme richtig gut voran. Nach ein paar Kilometern werde ich von zwei im Schatten liegenden Straßenarbeitern herbeigerufen. Wie immer halte ich an. Ich nehme neben ihnen auf dem Boden Platz. Da fängt auch schon einer der beiden an mir Brot, Käse, hartgekochte Eier und Gurken zu reichen. Und das in Unmengen. Währenddessen möchte mir sein Kollege sein geografisches Wissen beweisen und zählt mir von zahlreichen Ländern die Hauptstädte auf. Beeindruckend! Wir unterhalten uns noch ein wenig, zumindest mit Händen und Füßen, grüßen die vorbeifahrenden LKW-Fahrer und machen noch ein paar Fotos.
    Manchmal ist das schon komisch, da finde ich zuvor nichts zum Essen und dann werde ich ganz zufällig von fremden Menschen auf der Straße so richtig verwöhnt. So ganz hab ich das alles noch nicht durchschaut.
    Das war dann wohl meine letzte Begegnung mit tollen Menschen in Georgien. Mit vollem Bauch fahre ich noch die letzten Kilometer hoch auf 1450 Meter zum Grenzübergang nach Armenien. Jetzt heißt es erstmal Warten!
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  • Liebevolles Armenien

    June 6, 2024 in Armenia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Der Grenzübergang nach Armenien hat etwas gedauert. Na jedenfalls waren die Armenischen Grenzbeamten äußerst freundlich. Meine Taschen musste ich an drei verschiedenen Kontrollen dennoch öffnen. Da ich ihnen aber genau sagen konnte, was sich in welcher Tasche befindet, waren sie nicht besonders interessiert. Auch deshalb nicht, weil sich in meinen Trinkflaschen kein Alkohol, sondern nur Wasser befand. Komisch bei knapp über 30 Grad.

    Die Landschaft erscheint hier nach der Grenze irgendwie anders und doch gleich. Mit den sattgrünen Wiesen und Bergen wirkt alles so lieblich.
    Auch die Menschen sind sehr herzlich und offen. Sowohl die Armenische Gastfreundschaft als auch die ein oder andere nette kleine Geste durfte ich bereits genießen.
    Überrascht bin ich nicht, dass es auch hier viele Kamikaze-Fahrer gibt. Mit den uralten und stilvollen Autos macht es die Raser aber irgendwie sympathisch, wenn sie auf die Tube treten.
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  • Yerevan and surroundings

    Jun 7–9, 2024 in Armenia ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    My mouth stood open when I first saw the city of Yerevan with Mount Ararat (highest mountain in Turkey with 5137 meters) from a far distance. The stunning view along with the smooth downhill has been a very pleasant morning ride.

    The first stop in Yerevan was the Embassy of Turkmenistan. As expected, the Transit Visa which was still available two weeks ago is not issued any longer. There have been too many requests in recent weeks of travelers who just want to transit through this country. The Ambassador was very kind and offered me to contact me in case the situation changes. Since I do not expect this to happen any time soon, there is no other alternative for me. I will have to book a wickedly expensive guided tour through Turkmenistan with other cyclists. The other two options by cycling through Afghanistan or Pakistan are out of the question for me. But somehow I am very much looking forward to visit this exotic country.

    In Yerevan, I also got the chance to visit the yearly wine festival with locals and other travelers. We had a hell of a fun!
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  • Enjoying the simple things

    June 9, 2024 in Armenia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    As I can only enter Iran on the 18th June, I still have plenty of time here in Armenia. Instead of spending most of the day with cycling, I enjoy the simple things such as sleeping late, taking photos and enjoying the scenic views. Sometimes I am forced to take longer breaks because of heavy thunder storms with hail. These are not the most pleasant situations when crossing a mountain pass or being in a tent. But I slowly get comfortable with it.Read more

  • Rain and unexpected reunion

    June 11, 2024 in Armenia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    What I love to do in showers of rain is just watching the road traffic with all those classy cars. Lada in all imaginable colors is for example still ordinary - oftentimes overloaded.

    And what a surprise, I met Mali again. Seems like this guy is following me. We had another lovely reunion at a wonderful camping spot. But it was sadly the last one for a while as our paths now head towards different directions. See you soon in Munich my friend!Read more

  • Kindness, scenery & tensions

    June 12, 2024 in Armenia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Armenia is treating me very well. The people are open and generous to guests. Here and there, I receive invitations to eat and drink. Shopping in mini-markets without drinking one or two self-distilled vodkas out of a 5 liter bottle would be disrespectful.
    The kids are curious in particular. At first, they are a little shy but the ice is broken soon after sharing a friendly smile. Some of the kids here learn English at school and are eager to practice. We have some basic conversations and they seem to be as excited as I am. Photo shootings with lots of selfies are a must - I want photos with them and they want photos with me. Having some candy at hand to raise a smile and see the spark in their eyes is priceless.

    The further I cycle south, the more military convoys I spot. The border to Azerbaijan is very close, sometimes only a few kilometers away, and one can really feel the tensions between the two countries. In fact, the unofficial border in some territories is moving daily. Most of the Armenian soldiers I have met so far are kind, greet me with a handshake and a smile. Pride and hope I can sense in their eyes.
    It makes me think a lot and sometimes feels like being in another world.
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  • Lovely encounters

    June 15, 2024 in Armenia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    There are not many options to cycle further down south. In fact, there are only two main roads. One of them was recently paved and is thus in great condition. And yet it is very busy for it is mainly used by trucks driving back and forth from Yerevan to Iran.
    On my way down south, I met Toni from Germany who is working for the embassy in Yerevan. He was so kind and offered me water out of the car and he stopped a few hundred meters later to take some photos.
    Also, I had my very first encounter with two Iranian truck drivers. They were having breakfast at the side of the road and invited me to join. I guess this will happen more frequently once I have crossed the border to Iran.

    On Saturday, I arrived in the city of Karajan which is located at an altitude of 1750 meters. Some locals started talking to me. One of them was Garik. Garik was not so happy about my plan cycling further up the mountain and spending the night there. More or less he insisted that I would stay in Karajan where it’s safe. So, I followed him through some sort of jungle. (Fun fact: Earlier, he told me that I should be careful with snakes in this region. But I should not worry too much because some antidote would do it in case I got bitten. Well, thanks for that!) When I asked him if there are no snakes here in this overgrown backyard, he just said: „Nono not here.“ Luckily, it was me walking in the front. After some bushwhacking, we arrived at a little garden house with a spectacular view of the city and mountains. This was going to be my place for the night. Lucky me! Garik ordered one of his close relatives Rafo to get us some food, beer and tea. In the meantime, he was preparing a fire. Of course, I was not allowed to help. My role was just to sit and rest. Yes, sir!
    We shared some stories and talked about the differences and similarities of our countries. He then told me that he used to be a soldier and was stationed in the Karabakh region some years ago. Garik showed me his leg where he got hit by a shrapnel. Luckily, he has physically recovered. Ever since this incident, he has not been involved in the fight anymore. No words needed.
    The next morning, he came up to the garden house together with Rafo and some breakfast to say goodbye. After we visited his mom in the local bakery, it was then afterwards time for me to move on.
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  • Goodbye Armenia!

    June 16, 2024 in Armenia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    On my second last day in Armenia, I met Maxi from Uruguay and Maryse and André from Luxembourg again. It was more or less coincidence. But as I mentioned in the previous post, there are not too many options to cycle from Armenia to Iran.
    We did our last climb and downhill in Armenia together. On our way down, we stopped at a water tap. There were some locals having a party. To be precise, a baby party for one of the men who has become a father. And of course we were invited to eat and drink. Thanks to those guys, we also found out why the police wouldn’t let us stop before on the side of the road. There was a police escort with the president of Armenia.
    Anyway, we had good laugh and all our plans for the rest of the day have changed. I could not have dreamed of a better end in Armenia. Armenia, you are awesome!
    The next day is going to be exciting. We’re entering Iran together!
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  • The loveliest welcome ever

    June 17, 2024 in Iran ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Crossing the border of Iran was a very pleasant experience as the border officers welcomed us warmly.
    As soon as we had left the border office, we could all feel the intense heat. It was unbearable particularly for me. Cycling was a real torture on the first two days. It has reminded me again that I have to drink much more and take it easy. I was very glad to be cycling together with Maxi, Maryse and André.

    To tell every experience we have made with locals only on the first few days here would take me too long. What I can say is that the people are something special. They cheer you on along the road, smile genuinely and would stop to give you food, water or invite you to their homes. Sometimes, it felt a little like being part of a cycle race because of all the support you get on the road. I think it’s hard to put it into words for now. But I may be able to share some more stories about my experience soon.
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