A Curiosity Ride

March - May 2024
Howdy!
Welcome to my bike trip from my home town Steißlingen 🇩🇪 to Kyrgyzstan 🇰🇬. I will give regular updates - sometimes in English, sometimes in German.
Stay tuned! 🤘🏼🏕️🚲
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Currently traveling
  • 34footprints
  • 11countries
  • 58days
  • 273photos
  • 9videos
  • 4.2kkilometers
  • 4.2kkilometers
  • 26sea miles
  • Day 15

    Changing landscapes

    April 9 in Serbia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    I have finally left the flatland behind and reached the mountains of the Balkan. My route brings me to the Tara National Park in Serbia. The first long climb awaits me. This is pure joy after days of cycling straight. My training throughout the winter months finally pays off and my legs feel strong. The national park reminds me of the black forest where my brother lives with his family. It‘s good to have those constant parallels that remind me of home.

    What also changes is the behaviour of the stray dogs. Most of them are nice and a little shy. Some of them pretend to be hunters and chase me for a while. In such cases, I just yell at them and slow down a little. It works so far! This is just the beginning. I think that the stray dogs in other countries are way more ambitious. I will then have to come up with another method to get rid of them.

    Tomorrow is my last day in Serbia before entering Montenegro. Cycling through this wonderful country was a great experience.
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  • Day 17

    Mental rollercoaster with reward

    April 11 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I woke up with a sore throat, sniffy nose and low energy level yesterday morning. Not sure, what’s wrong. So I treated myself to a decent breakfast hoping to get energy for the day. It didn’t help, I still felt weak. Anyway, I started cycling with lower intensity and much more breaks. This day has been the hardest so far. What kept me going were the nice car drivers and sometimes even the police. They honked, smiled and showed their thumbs up. Crazy what so little things can do with a person.

    I finished my day in Kolašin and went straight to the supermarket to buy dinner. Then Josua showed up and started talking to me. Josua is from Germany and currently doing some backpacking with his friend Jonas in Montenegro. We get along very well and I join their camp a little outside of the city. It feels good to have some company now. We have dinner together and share some stories. Even better, they have a contact in Istanbul where my replacement pole for the tent can be shipped! Jackpot, thank you!!!

    I felt a little worse this morning but still wanted to cycle to Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro. At noon, I noticed that I’m feeling much better. The effort was absolutely worth it! I was rewarded with a scenic mountain bike road high up in the mountains without a single soul. One of the most magnificent places so far on this tour. The descent to Podgorica is long and the road is in good condition. Time for some speed!

    What’s next? Well, tomorrow I will already enter Albania - one of the countries I am excited about the most!
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  • Day 18

    Lake Skadar at its finest

    April 12 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Wow, the road along Lake Skadar is just pure magic. I was already here last year for a short time when four helpful Albanians picked me up near the jungle after my failed hike. The road goes up and down and the view is just breathtaking. I have the road almost for myself. Almost! There’s lots of snakes. Most of them are dead, some are alive.Read more

  • Day 18–20

    Two nights at the beach

    April 12 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I entered Albania with a big smile knowing that cycling and everything that comes with it was going to be an unforgettable experience. And I was not disappointed so far!
    The people and particularly the kids are very talkative and friendly. Most of them speak English very well.
    Having arrived in the city of Lezhë, I cycled straight to the beach. I want to sleep there tonight. It didn’t take long and the owner of a campsite asks me if I am looking for a place to sleep. Yes, sir! Come here, you can stay for free. He does not even accept a penny because the season has not started yet. By the way, I am the only one camping here. There’s no one around but some massive hotel facilities a few hundreds meters up the road. Some people walk along the beach while I’m pitching my tent. It takes me almost half an hour to complete this process because everyone starts talking to me and welcomes me in Albania.
    Today, I just hang out at the beach, learn some basic words in Albanian, eat pizza, clean my bike and do whatever I feel like.
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  • Day 20

    Heute mal chillig! Sicher?

    April 14 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Ich fahre in die Hauptstadt Tirana und die Vorfreude steigt. Dort angekommen muss ich überrascht feststellen, dass es hier nicht viel zu sehen gibt. Ursprünglich wollte ich hier eine Nacht verbringen. Nach zwei Stunden möchte ich weiterfahren. Schnell noch ein Bild von mir und meinen sexy Socken. Vielen Dank Jakob und Anna, die so eine wundervolle Idee hatten, unsere Gesichter und BFF drauf zu packen. Damit vergesse ich euch ganz bestimmt nicht.

    Dann treffe ich Reni. Reni wohnt in Tirana, studiert Tourismus und verbringt auch gerne Zeit in der Natur, unter anderem mit seinem Rad. Er möchte wissen woher ich komme und wo ich hinfahre. Ich erzähle ihm von meinem Vorhaben und zeige ihm meine Route. Er schaut sich den Teil in Albanien genau und bestätigt, dass ich mich darauf freuen kann, weil die Route sehr schön sein soll. Auch zeige ich ihm, wo ich heute Nacht am Strand in Durrës schlafen möchte. Wiederum bestätigt er, dass es dort sicher und zudem wunderschön ist. Es tut gut, gelegentlich solche Bestätigungen bzw. Ratschläge von Einheimischen zu bekommen. Man fühlt sich dann nochmal ein Stück sicherer. Wir verabschieden uns und ich radle weiter.

    Bis nach Durrës sind es nur 30km. Das sollte ich schnell hinter mich bringen. Denkste! Komoot hat etwas anderes mit mir vor. Ich überlege noch, ob ich der Route trauen oder nicht doch lieber der Hauptstraße folgen soll. Es sind nur noch 6km, so schlimm kann es schon nicht sein. Immerhin gibt es hier heute den ersten soliden Anstieg mit 18%. Da muss ich schon kräftig strampeln, um das alles hochzubekommen. Nach ein paar hundert Metern geht die Straße in eine Schotterstraße über. Dann wird es undefinierbar. Ein Mix zwischen Wanderweg und Kratern. Hier gibt es auch keine Häuser mehr. Ich mache aber ein paar interessante Begegnungen. Als erstes treffe ich einen Mann. Er spricht nur Albanisch, gibt mir die Hand und läuft weiter. Dann kommt eine Frau auf ihrem Esel daher. Dann wieder ein Mann. Auch dieser will mir etwas erzählen und gibt mir die Hand. Ich lächle einfach nur und bedanke mich. Plötzlich höre ich einen Motor. Da kommt doch tatsächlich so ein Verrückter auf seinem Motorroller hinter mir angeschossen. Die Schlaglöcher scheinen ihn keineswegs zu interessieren. Da bin ich schon längst am schieben. Er lacht mich aus, begutachtet meinen vollbepackten Drahtesel, mauschelt irgendwas auf Albanisch und fährt weiter. Was soll‘s! Plötzlich sehe ich in weiter Entfernung zwei riesige Hütehunde und eine Schafsherde. Als mich die Hunde entdeckt haben, steuern sie schnurstracks auf mich zu. Auweia, schnell schnappe ich mir den nächsten Stein und stelle das Rad ab. Die wirken tatsächlich sehr groß. Der Schäfer ist allerdings direkt in der Nähe und ruft seine zwei Racker zurück. Glück gehabt, das wäre spannend geworden.

    Ich schiebe mein Rad noch einige Kilometer weiter. Wenigstens geht es jetzt nur noch bergab und nebenbei ist der Ausblick wunderschön. Gerne würde ich hier mein Zelt aufschlagen, allerdings habe ich nichts zu essen und auch mein Wasser neigt sich langsam dem Ende zu. Am Ende brauche ich für diese Strecke fast 1 1/2 Stunden. Das ist halt so. Sich darüber aufzuregen hilft in solchen Situationen nicht. Ich muss einen kühlen Kopf bewahren und einfach weitermachen. Am Ende geht’s ja doch irgendwie.

    Jetzt chille ich mal wieder am Meer und muss rückblickend nur schmunzeln. Solche Erfahrungen sind einfach geil!
    Zudem habe ich heute die 2000 km erreicht. Nach derartigen Strapazen bin ich schon positiv überrascht, dass ich immer noch keinen Platten hatte und auch meine ganze Ausrüstung das alles tadellos mitmacht. Schließlich muss die Frida (so heißt mein Rad) ja einiges leisten und beschwert sich dabei ja noch nicht einmal. So kann’s weitergehen!

    Ach und gleich geht’s noch zum Abendessen. Selbst kochen lohnt sich hier nicht, da die kleinen Supermärkte vergleichsweise teuer sind und die Pizza im Restaurant nur 4,00€ bzw. der Döner 2,00€ kostet. Da kann es schon mal beides werden. Ich verbrenne ja sowieso jeden Tag Tausende von Kalorien.
    Danach werde ich mich dann irgendwo am Strand auf meine Isomatte legen und zufrieden einschlafen. Zum Glück hat auch hier die Saison noch nicht begonnen und die 5-Sterne Hotelanlagen direkt hinter mir sind größtenteils noch ausgestorben.
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  • Day 22

    Dead end and first rain

    April 16 in Albania ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    I cycled through a beautiful and remote valley in the Albanian mountains. The road ended and changed into a hiking trail. Either 15km of heavy lifting or cycling back 80km. The latter it is. It simply didn’t make sense as it would have taken hours.
    And for the first time of my tour, it has started raining. Completely soaked, I decided to treat myself to spend the night in a hostel with a hot shower. The weather forecast for the upcoming days looks miserable. Could be that I change my route and head further south to Greece.
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  • Day 23

    Pure magic and cold spell

    April 17 in North Macedonia ⋅ 🌧 4 °C

    I woke up well-rested in my comfortable hostel bed this morning. My only room mate was Lothar from Germany. He did some backpacking with his son in Albania and was about to catch his flight back home. We had breakfast together that was prepared from Fatima with much love. Eggs from their chickens, cheese from a local supplier, freshly baked bread and self-made fig jam - yummy! Fatima is the hostel owner and like a mommy. She makes sure that everyone has a decent meal and feels like home. As Lothar wanted me to leave with enough energy for the day, he shared half of his breakfast with me. Thanks again Lothar!
    Fully energized and thrilled about the upcoming day, I left the hostel in pouring rain. Not so fast! Fatima is waiting for me outside - lovely hug, kiss on the cheek and off I am.
    It didn’t take long and I was soaked again. I don’t mind the cold and rain very much. I know that my panniers keep my stuff dry and I will have a hot meal for dinner and a dry tent for the night. So, I had great fun today like a little kid playing in water puddles. The construction workers on the side of the road were just shaking their heads.
    It was also nice to be accompanied by an elderly couple from Zurich in their Jeep. I met them in the hostel as well and they waited for me twice on the side of the road. Come and have a coffee and snack with us in a warm restaurant! Thanks again Verena and Hans. I thankfully refused the invitation as I was making good progress and in my flow (never break the flow).
    When I reached the summit, I had a brilliant view over Lake Ohrid and it stopped raining. That was pure magic.
    Then I went to a bakery to spend my last Albanian Lek on Burek, Donuts and Croissants - awwwr that’s so much food today! But I needed it for the mountain climb on the other side of the lake. Having arrived there, the temperature dropped significantly. It was up to 30 degrees the previous days and up here on 1500m it’s only 3 degrees. Massive drop! But I can finally get out my warm clothes and sleeping bag. One of the best days including the longest climb.

    Thanks Albania! I felt super safe here on the road. The traffic was so much better than expected and you crazy horn abusers motivated me non-stop. Loved it!
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  • Day 24

    Winter came back

    April 18 in North Macedonia ⋅ 🌨 -1 °C

    Woke up in the middle of the night because of a thunderstorm. I had to go out and secure my tent with more tent pegs. My fault, should have done this right away.

    The morning was bitter cold with -2 degrees and it was still raining. I had breakfast and went back to my tent hoping for the weather forecast to be true - warmer temperature and less rain in an hour.
    After half an hour or so, I woke up and opened my tent. Everything was covered in snow. What!? Okay, I need to get off this mountain as quick as possible. The road was covered in snow too. To my surprise, my tires did a great job uphill as well as downhill.
    I made it down and met Barbara. We were both amused as we share the same trouble. She still had to cycle up that mountain. Hope you made it to the other side!

    Annoyingly, the dogs in North Macedonia seem to be very active too. They tirelessly chased me down the road a couple of times. They were big and faster than me. I had no other choice but to stop. Otherwise they would‘ve crossed my direction and I had hit them with my front wheel. That would have been a disaster for me and the dog. My method worked pretty well and they soon had lost interest. It’s not that I’m afraid of them, such situations are just super annoying.
    I only spent one day cycling in North Macedonia and I know that this country has so much more to offer. But the weather forecast is lousy and I prefer warmer climate for now. Maybe next time!
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  • Day 27

    Wild Greece

    April 21 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Not much to share lately. I have arrived in Greece a few days ago. It’s just beautiful for cycling and camping. Especially Northern Greece offers vast landscapes, empty roads and remote places.
    As of tomorrow, I will slowly cycle along the coast towards Istanbul. The greatest thing is that I will spend there a few days together with my sister.Read more

  • Day 29

    One of those days

    April 23 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Yesterday was again one of those special days. I had just cycled 20 km or so and arrived at the Greek coast when suddenly a car overtook me and stoped a few hundred meters further down the road. I could see the guy getting out of his car and waving at me. Ahm… not sure if I did something wrong!? As I came closer, he introduced himself as Nicolas. Nicolas lives just 300 meters away and wants to invite me to his house for breakfast (luckily, I hadn’t eaten my 2nd breakfast yet which was supposed to be a monstrous 190 g heavy chocolate croissant). Without hesitating, I immediately followed him to his house. His wife Georgina and two kids are at home and warmly welcome me. Georgina knows already what’s going on and is not surprised about my visit. Nicolas brings many cyclists to their home because it is located next to a very popular road - one of those gateways that leads cyclists to
    Istanbul.
    Nicolas is an outdoor enthusiast who is particularly interested in cycling, climbing and hiking. Of course we have many stories to share. He has been to the Bodensee, Freiburg and many other places that are close to my hometown. Also, he shows me some photos from one of his tours to Mount Olympus that was even documented in a Greek sports magazine. Quite impressive what this man has experienced (Should you ever need a mountain guide for Greece, there is certainly no better one than him). We could talk like this for many hours. Nicolas asks me if I want to stay for a night. But I don’t want to be too pushy as he stills has to do some work. Anyway, Nicolas told me about a magic place with hot pools about 40km away. Oh yes, that’s exactly what my body needs and I want to spend the night there!
    Before I left, Nicolas gave me some fresh lettuce and spring onions from his garden. Finally, some vitamins and not only junk food!

    After saying goodbye to Nicolas, I cycled along the coast. It’s still off-season and there are just plenty of dreamlike places for wild camping (no one cares during off-season).

    I arrived at the hot pools and the abandoned houses. The pools are not only outside but also inside the old buildings. Never seen a place like that. The water is up to 40 degrees hot and this is just the perfect recovery for my body. There, I also get to meet another Greek Dimitri and a couple from Graz, Austria. The two Austrians travel with their massive truck towards Georgia and have in fact chosen a very similar route to mine. If I need assistance along the way, I have it now! They invited me for a beer and some snacks.

    As I was walking back to my tent, I spotted a guy that somehow looks familiar. That’s Nicolas over there! He just arrived with his friend and wanted to check on me. What a lovely surprise. We went together to the hot pools and had another vibrant discussion.

    Well, I must also admit that I had my very first kind of awkward situation. I noticed a guy who was straying around the hot pools for some time. I felt a little like being followed. Indeed, he did follow me after some time and asked if I was German and want to have sex with him. Wtf, of course not! Get off you creepy little something. I was not scared of this dwarf, rather, that he would misappropriate my bike and gear that I left behind when I went to the hot pools again (Aleks, the Serbian Destroyer, be prepared my friend). Just to be safe, I took a photo of his registration number. Never saw him again afterwards.

    What a day! I slept like a baby after the hot pools.

    Today is very much the opposite. There’s a strong breeze along the coast and the rain comes from all sides. Seems like the positive effect of the hot pools didn’t last for too long.
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