Brazil
Mato Grosso

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    • Day 177

      Abismo

      May 23, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Yet again its another early start, yesterday we had a chill out day apart from the training we had to do for todays activity. This involved abseiling and rappeling which id never done before, and trust me it was harder than it looked. With our training in the bag we made our way to Abismo, we had to be one of the first people here as they take two groups down seperately and to ensure we could catch our bus we needed to leave site at 11. The stress of catching this bus was really getting to me, everything really had to drop into place and there was little margin for error.
      We were all equipped out in our safety harnesses and helmets before being attached to the line that would take us down. Mark and i would go down ttogether and once we were sat in the shaft it was time to descend with our legs entwined we slowly lowered ourselves into the abyss . I think they must have slowed the rope up in someway , as from our practice that we had yesterday trying to take the friction off was a lot harder. Slowly we dropped down into something i had never imagined i would ever see. It was like being in Middle earth stalignites and stalitites were everywhere . I dont know whyi was shocked tat the gave was so dark as the only source of light was a small whole that we had been lowered through, it was also still early , but it really was like finding an alladins cave. The journey down was quite hard work and by the time i reached the bottom i was exhausted . We waited for the rest of our group to descend and everyone was of the same thouht that if it was that hard aseiling down, how hard was it going to be Rappelling back up. The cave is 70m below ground but was much bigger that i imagined and i couldnt believe what a force water and calcium can have. Once we were all together our guide Mateus took us in a little dinghy and showed us the various formations around the cave , it was jaw dropping stuff at how different even the textures of the limestone were. In the water below us were even more formations and we headed back to a wooden floating platform to don our wetsuits and investigate further.The water was so cold when we got in but after a while your body adjusted . There was something quite eerie about this place and as we snorkelled around it was like having a mirror reflection under the water. After a short while i got out and got dressed as time was pushing on Mark followed shortly after and once dressed we were put back into our harnesses. This place should definitely be attached with a wonder of the world certification its beauty is breathtaking. It was time to make our accent and once strapped in i was nervous about the task ahead, i was winched to about half way up which i wasnt expecting and then hanging in mid air i tryed to do the technique that wed learnt yesterday but for some reason it wasnt working , i was petrified , here i was dangling on a rope trying to shout down that my clamp wasnt working and noone could hear me. After what seemed like forever , but was probably 3 or 4 mins i was winched up again, to just below the entrance, it looked like i wasnt going to have to rappel after all which i was pretty glad of as my arms were still hurting from last night and my legs were shaky being at such a great heigt, with my hands either side of the rock i was hauled slowly through the final part.Back on level land i was shocked to see that it was actually the guys and girls on top that had physically hauled me up, and now it was Marks turn, i did feel sorry for them in that heat its bloody hard work pulling 14st up 70 metres. Mark joined me and after a big thank you we ran to catch our taxi . Back at the hostel our bags were already packed and id bught sandwiches the night before so after a quick bite to eat we sat waiting for the bus that was due at 1230. It was supposed to be a three and a half hour journey to the airport then a further 30 mins to downtaown then a taxi from there to the terminal was abouut 20 mins but at 1245 the bus hadnt arrived . It eventually turned up at 13.10 so we were going to be cutting it really fine. We arrived at the airport at 530 and had accepted we wouldnt be catching the bus tonight, but when we got in the taxi we explained the situation and he drove ike a lunatic, going through red lights down little short cuts and just 5 mins from the terminal there had been a crash. It was 550 as we sat in the traffic i was devistated we were so close yet s far away, hen nigel mansell started weavin his way in and out and we cleared the crash. the time was .6.01 and i ran to the ticket office while mark grabbed the rucksacks. The bus hadnt arrived yet, and must have been caught in the same traffic as us. I was so happy , but when i came to pay for the tickets it wouldnt accept my card, rucksack on my back i ran to the cashpoint and withdrew the cash just as the bus was pulling in , i quickly ran back and paid and we boarded the bus
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    • Day 172

      Cuiaba.

      May 18, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      We arrived this mornin at just after 6 after a 23 hour journey that i not going to bore you with the details of. Cuiaba is quite a big city with lots of skyscraper buildings. The hostel itself is really nice and we even have our own pool although its actually raining at the moment so well give that a miss. Even though our room is ready the young girl on reception is reluctant to let us in there ss check in isnt till midday, although she does offer us a coffee and we si t in reception catching up on emails etc. shortly after 8 the owner of the hostel arrives and swiflly shows us to our room apologisnig for keeping us waiting. Mark and i are both so relieved to get a shower and brush our teeth , and feel clean again at last . We get dressed and ask to use he laundry facilitys which is actualll a washing machine. clothes washed and hung out to dry Mark and I are keen to find a bar to watch the Liverpool game , so after downloading a map on my phone we se off. The map doesnt actually show bars but it takes us to the centre? well thats what it says. There is not a bar in sight , but both being hungry we enter a shop that is really busy with locals. Its a buffetstyle where you load on your plate what you want and its weighed by the kg . With a full plate and a can of pop my whole meal comes to 3 pound and is absolutely delicious. Still unable to find a bar and only an hour and a half till kick off we head back to the hostel we enquire if there is anywhere at all that is open and after several phone calls to numeroius bars the answer is NO?. The only other option is to watch it on a streaming site so tablet out and after a few sites we managed to find one and watched the game ittermitently obviously being very dissapointed with the result. In the evning we go to reception to order a Chinese to be delivered but the guy suggests we head to praca popular as they have every type of food we could possibly want. taxi ordered and 5 minutes later we arrive. The square is strewn with vrious eateries and after a cocktail and a beer wwe agrre on a steak. The guy in the restaurant is hysterical and speaks the most perfect american English, and is also impressed with my Portuese. He explains thaat he knew a woman from Liverpool called Susan Boyle from when he worked there and then joked about the x factor. Mark went all out and also had a cocktail, called a Grand Jack( thats your fault Colin Ward) . I go into the toilet and there is the biggest bottle of Listerine mouthwash I've ever seen we pay the bill and i have to say it was one of the most pleasurable evenings ive had in months. The temptation to drown our sorrows was immense but we were good girls and boys and returned to our beds to set the alarm for 445 to catch our 12 hour bus to Campo Grande.Read more

    • Day 6

      Der Weg nach Cuiabá (abseits davon)

      September 7, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Heute klingelt der Wecker bereits um 2:45 Uhr, dann heißt es wieder packen, Minifrühstück und mit dem Bus zum Flugplatz. Um 6:05 Uhr geht der Flieger nach Sao Paulo-Campinas und dann weiter nach Cuiabá. Eigentlich. Doch wegen Unwetter landen wir zunächst im Nirgendwo und warten das Wetter ab. Dann geht es nochmal los mit Ziel Campinas und das klappt. Der Anschluss ist trotz massiver Verspätung auch gesichert, denn es ist dasselbe Flugzeug 😊 wie zuvor.
      Wir sind mit dem nächsten Dreiländereck verabredet: Brasilien, Paraguay und Bolivien und wir wollen die Natur im größten Sumpfgebiet der Welt entdecken - der Pantanal. Zum Vergleich: Die Everglades haben "nur" 4% der Fäche des Pantanal. Das heißt übersetzt 'Moor' oder 'Sumpf'. Laut Reiseführer stimmt das nicht ganz. Es ist das wohl größte zusammenhängende Feuchtgebiet der Erde, bestehend aus Flüssen, Kanälen, Seen, Grassavannen, Trocken-, Galerie- und Regenwäldern. Wir überzeugen uns lieber selbst.
      Nach insgesamt 5 h Flug und nochmal 3,5 h Busfahrt auf einer Höllenstraße, erreichen wir unsere Lodge, die Pousada do Rio Mutum. Und schon die Ankunft entschädigt uns. Herrlichstes Wetter und wir werden von Jabirus, den größten Schwarzkopstörchen und vielen Papageien, Aras, Kaimanen und weiterem Getier begrüßt.
      Nach einem kleinen Rundgang und Poolbesuch endet unser Tag in unserem Bungalow.
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    • Day 7

      Cuiabá Mirim

      September 8, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      Zurück fahren wir mit dem Boot und nach einer kurzen Mittagspause auch gleich nochmal, um das Fischerdorf Cuiaba Mirim zu besuchen. Hier wohnen ca. 600 Menschen, unter ihnen viele Lodgemitarbeiter. Auf einem Rundgang durch das Dorf erfahren wir, dass dieser Ort aus einer Art Arbeitersiedlung von einer riesigen Zuckerrohrplantage - inklusive Verarbeitung - entstanden ist. Man lebt im Familienkreis mit mehreren Generationen zusammen, die Häuser stehen beieinander. Eine der Frauen ist die "Chefin" und hat das Sagen. Das Leben ist sehr einfach. Es wird meist unter freiem Himmel gekocht. Die Bewohner versorgen sich weitgehend selbst, denn der Weg zum nächsten Ort ist weit. So können wir in den Gärten alle wichtigen Obst- und Gemüsepflanzen sehen, Bananen, Papaya, Mango, natürlich Maniok und viele andere leckere Sorten. Internetzugang hat man erst seit 2 Jahren und Fernsehen gibt es seit ca. 18 Jahren. Es gibt keinen Laden, keinen Arzt, keine Post - aber eine Bar. Es gibt eine Schule mit 4 Lehrern für die 75 Kinder. Unterrichtet werden immer drei Klassenstufen gemeinsam, am Vormittag und am Nachmittag. Autos gibt es nicht, auch keine Straße. Alles passiert per Boot - teilweise noch mit Holzkanus. Aber man sagte uns, alle Einwohner seien zufrieden mit ihrem Leben. Für uns war der Besuch des Dorfes sehr spannend.Read more

    • Day 8

      Naturspaziergang

      September 9, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Wir verlieren keine Zeit und begeben uns 7.30 Uhr auf eine Tour durch die verschiedenen Waldformen des Pantanals. Auch hier kennt sich Nathalie hervorragend aus und heute lernen wir besonders die Pflanzenwelt kennen. Sie zeigt uns z.B. was die Affen gerne futtern und Dirk probiert es auch gleich als Überlebenstraining aus und es hat geklappt.
      Und da kein Wald ohne Tiere ist, treffen wir auf viele Ameisen, auch "endlich" mal 2-3 Mosquitos, Aguti=Goldhase - sieht vorne aus wie eine Ratte und hinten wie ein Elefant, und auf die Nachtaffen, die wir bei dem Versuch die schönsten Fotos zu machen natürlich aufwecken.
      Am Nachmittag machen wir Urlaub 😃. Wir genießen das überaus schöne Wetter, gehen in den Pool und machen das folgende Video: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiUv8teodO-rn2ZPjMMTp6jGxISq und schreiben was ihr jetzt lesen könnt.

      Hier laufen die Pferde frei über die Lodge!
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    • Day 7

      Nightspotting

      September 8, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Im Sonnenuntergang kehren wir zu unserer Lodge zurück, haben Zeit zum Essen und danach steht noch eine Spottingtour (mit dem offenen LKW durch die Nacht fahren und mit Spot=Suchscheinwerfer nachtaktive Tiere suchen und gucken) auf dem Programm. Viel Ausbeute ist nicht: Eine unserem Uhu ähnliche Eule und eine Nachtschwalbe stehen am Wegesrand, ein Ameisenbär überquert vor uns die Straße und wir frieren ganz fürchterlich. Highlight der Fahrt: ein Tapir mit Baby verschwindet gemächlich im Unterholz, wir können ihn gut sehen. Diese Tiere sind sehr schwer zu entdecken und schon deshalb hat sich der Ausflug gelohntRead more

    • Day 9

      Abschied vom Pantanal - Brasilia voraus

      September 10, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

      Nachdem wir auf der Anreise bereits eine neue Zeitzone erreicht hatten, machen wir uns nun auf den Weg in die alte. 2,5 Tage haben wir in einer Umgebung verbracht, die uns weitab von Städten oder Verkehr mit einer Vielzahl von Pflanzen und Tieren aufgenommen hat. Eine fabelhafte Lodge, tolle Guides, fast keine Moskitos und super Wetter waren dazu die Krönung.
      Jetzt sitzen wir in einem deutlich komfortableren Bus zum Flughafen und die Höllenstraße ist nur noch schlecht. Wir haben noch Muße für die Pflanzen und Tiere außerhalb. Schon bald sehen wir Nandus, die größten Laufvögel hier und ein leider totes 'Großes Gürteltier'. Es ist vermutlich letzte Nacht angefahren worden. Das ist sehr schade, zumal sie inzwischen sehr sehr selten sind.
      Auf dem Flug nach Brasilia werden wir unsere bisherigen Fotos sortieren und uns auf eine am Reißbrett entworfene Stadt vorbereiten. Das wird ein Kontrastprogramm - von der artenreichen Landschaft in die 'steinreiche' Hauptstadt.
      Ihr fragt euch vielleicht - Warum? Ganz einfach, nach Manaus ins Amazonasgebiet (unser nächstes Ziel) geht es immer über Brasilia. Also legen wir einen Stop in Brasilia ein.
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    • Day 16

      Days 16 & 17: Chapada dos Guimaraes

      August 29, 2018 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      The overnight bus rolls into the city of Cuiaba and I roll out on to a local bus to the town of Chapada dos Guimaraes, located near the national park of the same name. At the C de G rodoviaria I meet Doree, my American friend with whom I will be travelling for a week. She is a truly intrepid travaller and has already spent a month in various parts of Brazil, with several weeks in Mexico before that.

      After lunch at a self-service restaurant we travel back to Cuiaba for the evening to meet her friend Jota, who lives on a fazenda (ranch) outside the city. He is a fellow musician of hers and has invited us to a Vivaldi concert at the university. I am no classical music expert but enjoy the concert and so do they and hey, it's free!

      As elsewhere in up-country Brazil, the Sao Jose where we are staying, is a friendly family-run pousada with its in-house tour guide. His nom de plume is Guerreiro and although he looks big and tough, is more of a gentle giant. He drives us into the national park and the state of the dirt road, even in the dry season in late August, shows that only an experienced driver such as he in a 4 x 4 can handle this. He takes us to a mountain view distantly reminiscent of Utah but with more vegetation and just as many infuriating little flies (yes, the critters around Moab are unforgettable). The view however is an impressive taster of more to come tomorrow.

      C de G is a pleasant little town of about 15,000. It's a surprise to find that so far away from the coast (it's equidistant from the Atlantic and the Pacific and is the geodesic centre of South America), the Portuguese had colonised it in the search for gold. There is a simple but attractive Colonial church dating from the mid-1700s. And like many other Brazilian towns with a history, there is a small 21st century colony of hippies. The couple that we meet are from Chile (he) and Argentina (she) and make their living selling handmade crafts. They have been on the road for 5 (yes, five) years!
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    • Day 20

      Days 20 & 21: the Pantanal

      September 2, 2018 in Brazil

      Although we have a 6 o'clock start, the hotel staff kindly lay on breakfast for us. "Go to work on Brazilian coffee" was never more appropriate. And cakes, and pastries, and scrambled eggs. Our driver takes us southwards and the tarmac rapidly fades to a road of characteristic reddish earth. The heat has temporarily left us, with a misty rain and chilly breeze which perhaps is blowing down from the Andes.

      The Pantanal is an extraordinary wetland, mostly in Mato Grosso state but some of it spills over into Bolivia and Paraguay. It becomes almost a lake up to the end of March but in early September the swamps have drained and it becomes a dryland. This is the best time of year to see the wildlife, and better than Amazonia as well because there is less vegetation. The National Park covers about 1,350 sq. km. (520 sq. mi.) but is threatened by cattle ranching, commercial fishing, poaching and road kill among other things. We are glad to get there while there is still time.

      At the Pousada Rio Claro we pick up a boat for our first taste of river life. And taste there is, for the jacare (a.k.a. caiman or alligator) snapping up a dead piranha which our boatman dangles out from the gunwale. Jacares are believed to number 10 million, which makes them as populous here as humans are in Rio de Janeiro. Other abundant creatures include the jabiru stork whose distinctive red collar makes it the official emblem of the Pantanal, and the capybara, famously the world's largest rodent about the size of pigs. Unlike the jabiru but like pigs, they don't fly.

      It's worth noting that I am not the first member of my family to pass this way. My great-uncle Cyril was once in the Mato Grosso, gathering butterflies for a private collector. This practice would be frowned on now but back in 1927 it provided him with a living and much interest. At the time, the great news topic was Colonel Fawcett whose expedition had vanished just 2 years before and people clung to the hope that he would be found.

      No trace of Fawcett but we have had a satisfying day.

      The following day is a rest day which we use going to the rodoviaria for tickets for our return journey in 2 days time. As we walk there, a couple of women warn us that this is a dodgy area and kindly give us a lift there and back. We celebrate a safe return with a kilo lunch and ice creams at the Italianissima. We also get our photos taken; my Brazil-coloured shirt actually represents the SPBW (Society for Preservation of Beers from the Wood) and a suspicious bulge underneath which is my shoulder pouch (in some quarters called a "bra"). Is that a passport inside or am I just pleased to see them?

      In the evening we find that piranha is a diet not just for jacares but for people, apparently with the added bonus that it's an aphrodisiac.

      Chaste thoughts however await us back at the hotel, where the manageress encourages us "dorme com Deus" (sleep with God).
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Mato Grosso, MT, ماتو غروسو, Штат Мату-Гросу, Мато Гросо, মাটো গ্রসো, Mato-Groso, Mato Grosso osariik, ماتو گروسو, Mato Groso, מאטו גרוסו, मातो ग्रोसो, マットグロッソ州, მატუ-გროსუ, Мату-Гроссу, 마투그로수 주, Matogrossensis, Mato Grosas, Matugrosu, Мато Грошо, Mato Gròss, Mato Grosso suyu, Мату-Гросу, மடோ குரோசோ, Мату Гросу, รัฐมาตูโกรสซู, Matu-Grosu, 马托格罗索州

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