Chili
Chaiten

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Top 10 des destinations de voyage : Chaiten
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    • Jour 98

      Reached Chaiten

      5 janvier 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Finally, around 6:15 pm, we reached Chaiten. Its a small laidback village with one main road and the Carretera Austral passing through. This village was totally evacuated during the 2008 eruption of Chaiten volcano. Most of the village was destroyed by the ash and fires and also the lahars caused due to the melting of the snow caps due to the volcano. The river Rio Blanco changed course causing the sea shore to move about a km further away. This is the reason why the current ferry terminal is almost 2 kms walk outside of the village. In 2011, the mayor of the region declared the place uninhabitable but some of the former residents started coming back in the hope of reviving the village again. Currently, the population is at about 2000 inhabitants, which is almost half of what it was before the eruption but the village has limped back to a place that doesn't show much signs of the destruction before. The village is split into 2 due to the river and one can find places to stay on either side of it (more on the Northern side though).
      We were dropped off at the main junction of the Northern part. After we thanked and waved goodbye to the lovely, helpful Dutch couple, Hristo and Maria went to look for a place to stay, Melinda stayed with our bags while I went to a tours kiosk (Chaitur) nearby to get some info about what all we could do from here and what are the possibilities for transportation.
      Chaitur turned out to be a tour operator and the bus stop for the village as well. The manager (I think his name was Wilson) was busy jamming up on his Ukulele with a Basque guy playing the guitar. I waited for about 5 min but tgey continued on and on. He plays quite well and it was nice to hear them play but Melinda was waiting outside on the road so I started walking out. That's when Wilson turned and asked me to get my bags etc and that he'll give all the information about the tours etc. I went and returned with our bags. The jam session continued. A German girl sitting inside whispered to me that this might take a while sinve she had already been sitting for almost 2 hours without getting any information from him. I tried to interrupt and informed him that we were in a bit of a hurry and we needed to get a place to stay and book a tour for the next day. That's when he said Patagonia is a place where Einstein actually understood relativity 😄😄
      We were there at Chaitur till almost 8 pm. Every few minutes I tried to get more information about the tours and prices but within seconds of starting the answer, Wilson would divert to a totally different topic. Finally, Hristo and Maria came back and informed that they had found a nice place nearby. We left Chaitur with no information about what we could do the next day or what tours were offered. We told Wilson that we would come there around 9 am next day if we wanted to join any tour.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 99

      Half a day of nothing

      6 janvier 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      The initial plan had been to get up by 8 am and get ready to go to Chaitur by 9 am and then decide which tour to do that day. When the alarm went off at 8 am, it was raining heavily and we all were quite tired so we decided to sleep in late. Mr. Wilson (actually now I remember his name was Nicklas) found our place and came looking for us in case we wanted to join a tour. We told him we were too tired and went back to sleep.
      Finally, around 11 we were up and got ready. We had our breakfast and then started to go around looking for someone else who could offer us tours around the place. That's when we came across Patagonia Ruta 7. They had full amd half day tours. We had already marked what all we wanted to see in this area and they had tours to all these places.
      We decided to go on a half day tour of the Alerces forest trail. It wasn't cheap at 56000 CLP for the 4 of us but knowing that we didn't have any other means of transport to and fro, we took it. The tour started at 3 pm and we drove North again on the route we had come South on the day before. It was still raining steadily but it wasn't a heavy downpour.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 99

      More flora in the forest

      6 janvier 2018, Chili ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Next thing along the trail we saw was the Kila trees. These look exactly like bamboo bit much thinner and are very flexible like the bamboo. These trees are the only homes to the endangered marsupial species of Moneto del Monte. This species is the smallest living marsupial in the world and is about 3-4 cms big only. They are a nocturnal species making it extremely hard to see or observe them.
      The rain continued to pour as we moved deeper into the forest. Next thing that Igor showed us was the Brifits or tomato of the forest. These are tiny versions of tomatoes but are not edible and can cause severe stomach aches. The species help preserve the humidity of the Patagonian forests by absorbing the rain water in its leaves and holding it.
      Next, Igor showed us the Cow Rib Fern. So called because it looks like the ribs of a cow when the leaves are fully open. These plants are sacred to the Patagonian people since when the leaves are new, they are closed into a spiral shape somehow representing the circle of life.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 99

      To Escondidas waterfalls

      6 janvier 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ -3 °C

      Back on the road, Alejandro found a ripe Nalka and broke the stems to give us to taste. It tasted much like rhubarb but a bit more sour and slightly different.
      After that we drove a short distance to the Escondidas waterfalls. Here too the trail was through thick forest but nicely made in wood. Here too, we crossed over the Rio Negro on the way into the forest.En savoir plus

    • Jour 99

      Wooden ladders in the trail

      6 janvier 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ -3 °C

      Deeper in the forest, the trail had to be maintained by wooden ladders going many meter up and down across the hill face. Now covered in moss and rain water, these were extremely slippery and we had to walk backwards to maintain our footing. On the way, we also saw the Gomita del Bosque or Rubber band of the forest. These are a very small rubbery variety of mushrooms that grow here.En savoir plus

    • Jour 100

      Streams and crossings

      7 janvier 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

      The trail continued across the plains. Some of the places, it was totally gone due to the heavy rains. The streams feeding the main river were overflowing and at some places we had to throw in logs and stones to make bridges across them. There were a lot of stones that had lichens dried and fossilized on them. They looked very colorful amd almost like the sea corals. Igor showed us the Turkey Tail Mushrooms on the way.En savoir plus

    • Jour 100

      Along the river Amarillo

      7 janvier 2018, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      The trail continued across the wet marshlands and we had to find ways to jump around over the streams, across fallen trees to make it to the original trail. Finally, the trail reached the Rio Amarillo and then turned suddenly into the forest and upwards. All the while we had lovely views of the Michinmahuida glacier.En savoir plus

    • Jour 48

      A Glacier and Volcano: Goodbye Patagonia

      21 avril 2019, Chili ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      After my few days of sociability in Rio Tranquilo and Coyhaique, it was back to hiking and exploring, first in Queulat National Park near Puyuhuapi (pronounced pu-yu-wá-pee) and then in the town of Chaitén.

      In Puyuhuapi, a made-up-the-night-before group chartered a van to take us up to one of the Queulat Park entrances. There were four possible trails to take. I went with the group on the “main trail” up to a glacial waterfall, immediately letting everyone pass me by so I could have the trail to myself.

      Some notes about hiking. First of all, most hiking trails have a “destination,” but for me, the TRAIL is the destination. I enjoy it all: the changing scenery at each stage, the lichens and ferns, the smaller plants, the bushes and the trees. I examine everything that moves, as well as plants and vistas, with my close-focus binoculars. It takes time, because I let it take all the time I want just to SEE. In the case of the Queulat Trail, I did get to the end to see the melting water of the glacier form a spectacular waterfall to the river 2000 feet below. Another note: after slipping on a piece of wood and landing on my rear with a terrible wallop on this hike, I decided to invest in a hiking pole. My balance is improved 100% with just one pole.

      The following day, I took a bus to Chaitén, a town just coming back to life after a surprise eruption of Mount Chaitén in 2008 covered the town with volcanic ash. I talked to a woman who went through it. She said there was a terrible explosion in the afternoon of May 2nd, 2008, and the order to evacuate the town came soon after. By nightfall, people were still leaving, and the next day all were gone. Only animals were left, and many perished in the ashes.

      So, April 24 found me exploring the newly-constructed town, poking around the ashes which are still everywhere, and examining hills of dead trees and new growth. Toward the end of the day, I had a conversation with a house construction contractor. I asked if, given the risk of a future explosion, it was unwise to build new houses. He said that no matter what, construction would continue. But after further questioning, I found that no one in town could ever purchase home insurance for a future volcanic catastrophe.

      Here are some interesting links: (you can find many others as well, of course)
      1. From Geology.com: https://geology.com/volcanoes/chaiten/
      2. From Wikipedia : https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaitén_…
      3. From YouTube: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HyDIyALTwL8

      And here are my pictures! Please sign your first name if you leave a comment.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 34

      Vulkan Chaitén - oder auch nicht

      12 mars 2022, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Zurück in Chaitén, parken wir vor unserer Stammkneipe, kehren dort ein und werden von unserer lieben Bedienung sofort erkannt und nett begrüßt. Es gibt Empanadas und Bierchen zum Abend 😋 und wir sind froh, wieder „daheim“ zu sein 😄😍. Hier fühlen wir uns wohl.

      Am nächsten Morgen müssen wir leider feststellen, dass die angesagte Sonne heute noch nicht so richtig Lust hat, sich zu zeigen. Das Dorf, die Berge und damit auch der Vulkan sind in tief hängende Wolken gehüllt. Daher ist die Wanderung zum Vulkan Chaitén erstmal verschoben, in der Hoffnung, dass der Himmel gegen Mittag nochmal aufzieht.
      Wir schlendern erst einmal ein wenig durch die Straßen, finden eine mögliche Option für eine spätere Dusche ✊🏻✊🏻✊🏻, ansonsten ist Chaitén am heutigen Sonntag wie ausgestorben.

      Da das Wetter auch nicht mehr besser wird, lassen wir den Sonntag Sonntag sein, sitzen im Café und können sogar dank gutem WLAN und dem zur Verfügung gestellten DAZN-Account (danke André 👍🏽😘) etwas Fußballbundesliga bei kühlem Bier schauen.

      Am Montag wachen wir bei Sonnenschein auf und freuen uns, heute endlich den Vulkan besteigen zu können. Allerdings wird unser Plan ein weiteres Mal durchkreuzt, denn zuerst müssen wir uns darum kümmern, dass unser Gefährt wieder anspringt, da die Batterie streikt und das Auto keinen Laut mehr von sich gibt. Mit dem Starterkabel in der Hand stellen wir uns also erstmal an die Strasse, halten den Daumen raus und bereits das erste vorbeikommende Auto gibt uns freundlicherweise eine Starthilfe. Leider merken wir schnell, dass das nicht genügen wird, die Batterie scheint ein ernsteres Problem zu haben bzw. einfach Schrott zu sein. Denn auch nach einiger Zeit umherfahren spielen die Anzeigen verrückt und am Ende tut sich einfach gar nichts mehr. Wir schreiben unserem Autovermieter, der sich zum Glück auch prompt zurück meldet und in 20 Minuten jemanden vorbei schicken will. Eine Stunde später kommt dann auch tatsächlich ein uns nicht unbekannter Herr vorbei 😅🤭.

      Rückblick:
      Jetzt, wo wir so gut wie zurück sind, keine schlimmen Pisten mehr vor uns haben und das Auto noch in einem Stück besteht, können wir es ja erzählen 🤣.

      Als wir das erste Mal in Chaitén ankamen und die ein oder andere schlimme Buckelpiste hinter uns hatten, hörten wir beim Fahren ein klapperndes Geräusch von hinten und dachten, das Kochgeschirr sei irgendwie verrutscht. Nach einem kurzen Blick in unsere kleine „Wohnung“ und ein bisschen Umhergeräume , hörte es aber nicht auf mit der Klapperei und irgendwann kamen wir auf die Idee, unter das Auto zu schauen. Und da sahen wir die Ursache für das Geräusch: der linke hintere zusätzlich eingebaute Stoßdämpfer war gebrochen und schleifte nun munter auf dem
      Boden mit 😱🤯😡. Statt direkt angeln zu können, mussten wir also erstmal vom Lago Rio Blanco wieder nach Chaitén zurück und fuhren eine Werkstatt an, um einen Schraubenschlüssel auszuleihen. Denn am Ende blieb uns nichts Anderes übrig, als das Teil komplett abzuschrauben und zu hoffen, dass die restlichen Federungen ausreichen 😅. Und diesen Schraubenschlüssel bekamen wir eben von dem gleichen Herren, der sich nun mit unserer Batterie beschäftigte. Auch er erkennt uns wieder, schüttelt lachend mit dem Kopf und gibt uns erneut eine Starthilfe, damit wir ihm zu seiner kleinen Werkstatt folgen können.

      Da unsere Fähre erst am Abend startet, sind wir zwar einigermaßen entspannt, aber zugleich auf das Schlimmste gefasst. Wer weiß, wann und ob hier eine neue und auch passende Batterie ankommt.
      Bei der Werkstatt angekommen, schaut unsere Fachmann mit seinem Kollegen noch einmal unter die Motorhaube, der ein oder andere Vorbeikommende gesellt sich ebenfalls noch dazu, es wird getratscht, an den Schrauben gefummelt und schließlich irgendwann eine neue Batterie aus der Werkstatt gezaubert und eingebaut.
      Ok, das ging dann doch ganz unkompliziert 😎👍🏽.

      Mit unserem wieder frisch schnurrenden Gefährt ziehen wir also wieder von dannen und haben für heute keine Lust mehr, den Vulkan zu besteigen.
      Stattdessen fahren wir gleich zu dem Campingplatz, den wir gestern ausfindig gemacht haben und kriegen endlich die so dringend benötigte warme Dusche für knapp 4€ p.P. 🥳🥳 (wir hätten auch das Doppelte bezahlt 😷) und machen uns mit mächtig Hunger nach der ganzen Aufregung Mittagessen.

      Den restlichen Tag verbringen wir mit einem Strand- und Stadtspaziergang, sitzen in der Sonne und fahren kurz vor Mitternacht mit der Fähre nach Puerto Montt. Die Fahrt dauert ca. 9 h, wir machen es uns in unserem Camper gemütlich und schlafen bei dem leichten Schaukeln des Schiffes schnell ein.

      Am nächsten Morgen können wir noch den schönen Sonnenaufgang beobachten, bevor wir in den Hafen von Puerto Montt ein- und kurz darauf und von Board fahren.
      Nachdem wir unseren mittlerweile ziemlich vollen Wäschesack abgegeben haben, verbringen wir die beiden letzten Tage in Chile gemütlich in dieser kleinen Stadt, packen so langsam das Auto leer und die Rücksäcke voll.
      Wie das oft so ist zum Ende einer Tour, merken wir auch, dass wir langsam froh sind, den Camper abgeben zu können, eine kleine Wohnung in Lima zu beziehen, mal wieder etwas mehr Platz zum Ausbreiten zu haben und eine tägliche Dusche genießen zu können😄. Dennoch war der Roadtrip mit dem Camper (und auch dem
      Mazda) die für uns perfekte Möglichkeit Feuerland und Patagonien zu besuchen um die größte mögliche Flexibilität zu haben.
      Damit sind knapp 5 Wochen Chile vorbei, es war unbeschreiblich schön und es geht weiter nach Lima, Peru. Mal sehen, was uns für neue Abenteuer erwarten 😎.
      En savoir plus

    • Jour 5

      Hiking: Parque Pumalín

      7 avril 2017, Chili ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      The formally private 700.000 he park is covered by temperate rainforests and it is said to probably be the most diverse one in the world , where trees, fern and moss live in perfect simbiosis.

      It is pretty humbling to look up the 3 to 4000 years old and 3 metres wide Alerce trees. I got absolutely fascinated by the semi-transparent leaves of some plants.

      The Parque Pumalín was created by a US billionaire who formally owned the "North Face", "Esprit" and "Patagonia" - all clothing companies. He stated, that after making money with useless things people actually didn't need, he had to do something meaningful and created this conservation project, evitating that its nature wasn't destroyed by exploiting its ressources. After founder Tompkins died in 2015 the park was somehow donated to Chile.

      I was completely amazed by the dense and dark green forests, clear waters and sparkling waterfalls. On the other hand I was completey attacked by some maybe black flies or other insectos, which I was feeling still weeks afterwards...
      En savoir plus

    Vous pouvez également connaitre ce lieu sous les noms suivants:

    Chaiten

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