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Coastal Camino
  • Sonali James

Coastal Camino

Coastal Camino also known as St James Way has its origins as a pilgrimage, these days though people do it for religious and many other personal reasons too. My walk is to start in Porto, Portugal and finish in Santiago De Compostella, Spain. Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 14, 2018
    Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Oh no tomorrow is the big day

    May 15, 2018 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Last day to get things done, finalise work matters before I go galavanting, sort out all the last minute details and then saying good byes, trying to get my head around what on earth am I doing. Where in the world do I get these ideas and what makes me think I can do it. Once I come back to NZ I am going to get my head examined by a shrink. Big thank you to Hamish for his patience and help, you my man!! are a star. Thank you too to Huyi for his help with getting the little things sorted.

     I was on an adrenaline high and managed to get all things crossed of my trustee lists, lists and more lists. Managed even to get some house work done, as I was leaving a man in charge of the house. 💁🏾 I am WOMAN. 🤣.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Beginning of the big adventure

    May 16, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Finally the culmination of all the preparation and planning. Will be a good test of how good a travel organiser I am.

    Last night I got no sleep. Was up early sorting the iPad due to a last minute decision to take Colin's Samsung tablet instead of my iPad.

    Col and I got to the airport well on time the flight to Sydney was all good. flight entertainment was out of commission. But was good to catch up on some much needed zzzzz.......😴😴😴😴

    Attached our some photos of flying over Alice Springs. Got my Camera out a bit too late, so no photos of the city area, but this is supposed to be the farmland surrounding AS.

    Now at the lounge in KL, waiting for the next connection to London. Been close to 24 hours of travelling already, not too tired though as I have slept and rested more than anything. It's been good for the body and mind. But missing Colin and Shanalee.

    In my mind the adventure really starts once I get to London. As I have been to London with Malaysian airlines before, I am comfortable with all of this. Going to Poland and finding my way there and then getting to Porto hmmm.........    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    What a day

    May 17, 2018 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Getting to London was all good, the flight from London to Austria got delayed. A seat away from me was an old gentleman, and he was all stressed about the flight getting delayed as he had a connecting flight from Vienna to Ukrane. My thoughts were he was stressing for nothing. Other than the stressing overkill he was a lovely old guy. We spoke most of the flight. He has travelled a lot. So it was interesting to speak with him. He thought I was in my late 30's or early forties, even more nicer to talk too😋

    Anyhow when we landed in Vienna a ground staff came to the plane and said this gent and some others who had connecting flights were going to get transferred. But nothing about me. So I took off at break neck speed. Went through Europian community passport control but the officer was nice he stamped the passport and off I went looking for my flight. Well guess what happens next, the flight took off without Mrs James in it. Honestly I could not believe it. Both flights were on Austrian airlines, but they could not hold the flight, so off they went. I cried with disappointment as I had less than a day in Poland. The earliest they could get me there was 4 hours later from my original time, which was going to be first to Frankfurt and from there to Krakow. My pre planned, pre booked taxi booking was going to be useless. You get the picture. Honestly!!!!.

    Finally when I got to Poland it was dark, raining , gloomy just like my mind. Having a shower was the high light of the day. Mind you this was now 48 hours of travelling. So I needed that. For a women who has 2 showers a day going without is preeeeety hard work.

    Was so tired, and all the food I had been having in the planes would keep me going for the next few days. I kept telling myself it was not the end of the world, but hey karma is a bitch, I had been thinking the old guy was over reacting, well come to it he had good cause to feel the way he did.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Divine Mercy Sancutary

    May 18, 2018 in Poland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    This was a side trip that originated as a result of a conversation I had with my God Mother, Nilanthi akki. She had told me about the Divine Mercy (DM) Chaplet, and her faith and work around the DM.

    It was raining in Krakaw, but I got up early and organised my self. I had familiarized before hand as to where every thing was in the sanctuary area as it was a flying visit litararily. It was one of those places within half an hour of being in the chapal I decided I need to come back. The place was calming, soothing, and so much like St Anne's in D'Auray, Brittany, France. A sense of being in a place of worship, which was not commercialised. I just wish I had more time. The old church was a work of art. Sadly I had only about 3.5 hours, but I had time for a church service at the Basilica, and coincidently not by any thought or plan, but by shear luck it was the birthday of the much loved pope St John Paul the Second who came from Krakow himself.

    St Faustina's room was so simple, and to see nuns dressed in the way when I was a child was very nice.

    Taxi that had been pre booked, was late and I was starting to panic, and luckily for me, he had been parked in the wrong area of the sanctuary and a security guard had asked what he was doing. So that person had sent him my way after that.

    A useless bit of information _ the Frankfurt airport has 3 wings to it and 2 of those are over a kilo meter long each way, the other one is not quite a km. I got back into getting my walking up to speed after the previous 2 days of sitting in a plane. In 2003 when we went to Frankfurt. The airport was a miserable place, but now boy oh boy it has gone through some changers and it was also very busy place. Masses of people every where. In 2003 we left our passports, cash and vedio recorder in the taxi. Thanks to the people who got their act together that day, a taxi coming to the airport picked it from the taxi going away from the airport and we were reunted with our belongings.

    No surprises, the plane to Porto was delayed by an hour. So was just on mid night when I got to the hotel in Porto.

    I love air travelling and the pampering in my snooty business class, but planes do get delayed, luggage does get lost what ever the class you travel and you can do nothing other than understanding that's air travel. If you can; get to places you want to get to earlier, leave room for travel mis- haps, and most of all remember no point getting stressed, that is not helping you.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Porto

    May 19, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ 18 °C

    When things go wrong they don't just go wrong they go majorly wrong. And when things go your way they just keep coming your way. Today was a testimony to that. Just around the corner from the hotel was the bus stop. I needed to go and get my Samsung gear watch looked at, as it had gone to watch hell. Got to the stop. Thought I will ask this gent if I could get a ticket on the bus, as in Italy you needed to get it before you got on the bus. This nice human being not only gave that information but also asked where I as going to, and then informed me I was standing in the bus stop going in the wrong direction. So he crossed the road and showed me round the corner where I should go to in order to catch the bus. All good so far. 10.00 minutes later the bus comes. And when I ask the driver he tells me no I should be where I had been. Confusing!!!!!!.

    Back I go, a bus comes along. After 3 stops that's it, the bus is not going any further. Not where I should be at all. So back to the place I just got down from. Now what there was a metro station there too. I asked a couple who were seated. These two were also super helpful. The man even went down the road asking people if they new where I was looking for, he got the necessary information and informed me, drew a diagram where I should get down etc. His partner made sure I got in with them when the metro came and so on. All good.

    Now I come to where I need to get off the metro, looking looking no such place as what I want, but I need a SIM card too for my phone. And there is a Vodafone shop. I had read it was best to get a SIM card from Vodafone while on the camino. I go in there and the guy serving me spoke very good English, and handsome to boot. He was super friendly too. We discuss what I needed and he had done the camino 4 times. The last time was from Spain on a bike 1200 kms. He gets the SIM card for me, and then things turn bad.

    I blame it all on Colin. I had gone to the main farm with him in his truck and was going to walk from there to blue mountains and back. When getting out of his vehicle he made a wise crack and I dropped my phone. My screen protector cracked at that time, which I replaced. But what I did not know was that it also damaged the SIM card tray. The darn thing could not be opened how ever much handsome dude tried to get it opened. Which meant no SIM card could be put in. So what now. Either buy a new cheap smart phone or get it repaired. The place he thought might be able to help when I went there was closed. So back to Mr Handsome and I asked him how to get to the Samsung shop I was originally supposed to go to.

    Got there by another metro ride, but this time I bought a ticket that was valid for 24 hours. Got to the Samsung shop and to coin a phase used by Barbs a lot. "These guys were as useful as tits on a bull". Went to Waltens an electrical and appliance shop. The sales rep was of the same caliber as the Samsung guys. But there was a repair area too. And that man tried his best to get the phone opened. No luck. But he suggested I go to another shop of theirs in the same mall but a larger one. Mind you this was as big as Harvey Normans. In Lower Hutt. He said there they had a Samsung repair station. So off I went. This man was hopefully regards the phone but not the watch. It needed to have the software installed in NZ. By now I could not care a hoot about the watch. He said leave the phone with him for 2 hours.

    So after a bite to eat I thought I will go to the Porto city centre, using my metro ticket. Got there and walked out of the metro station and realised oh bummer I do not have my phone for taking photos, so what's the point in going anywhere. Back into the metro station, when I spotted an information officer (IO). Thought I would ask about a place I wanted to visit the next day. I knew I needed to take a train to get there. When I explained where I wanted to go to he said oh no that is in the next metro station. I said no, and he said no, in the end it was better for me to listen to him after all he was the information officer. But I knew he was wrong!!!. Where I needed to go was a long way out of Porto. This man also told me that there was also a train station a few stops away which had the entire foyer in painted tile murals.

    Back to my phone repair place and he had good news for me, my phone was back on the job. No cost to me either. I thought I will go to the first place the IO had recommended. Well it was lovely. Might not be what I had read about, but it was yet, fully worth seeing. The avenue getting their was very busy. Something for the rich, the poor and the average alike on the same street. Walking down the street towards the end came to a "beautiful old church". I have a feeling those three words are going to used a lot in this journal.

    Month of May is dedicated to our lady . And normally in the evenings on each day the rosary is recited in most catholic homes. This was just about to happen in the church. So I stayed for that, and did mine in English. Then there was Saturday vigil mass which was also the Pentecost Sunday mass. After that feeling very Pious and Holy I went on a different route. Annoyed a Ching Chong China man by trying out a few articles of clothing and not buying any of it. Then saw a building which had a large tourist map on the window. Went in their out of curiosity in case it was an information centre. It was actually the train station that my IO had told me. So talk about the blind finding things in the dark by fluke. The Green lady in the photos is a still miming person.

    After that had a jaunt around that area, which had a lovely square and back on the metro to get back to the hotel. My day was done.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Valega and Porto

    May 20, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The church of Valega was a place I had read that was highly recommended for its painted tiles and the beauty of it. So I had it in my plan to visit. The previous day I had got the train information finally. I got a metro to the train station, and I had plenty of time before the train, so I went and got some crackers for lunch ready for the worse case scenario. The train and everything else seems to come on time. Metros are down to the minute. So all good. Valega pronounced Vulgar was in the middle of nowhere. I had been chatting to a few Germans in the train and they were going to Aveiro. But they had flown to Porto for the weekend from Munich. The plus side of living in Europe personified.

    There was a taverna kind of place ( I don't think taverna is the correct word need to find that out yet). Asked the locals sitting doing nothing, other than watching the world go by. One guy could speak a smattering of English and he pointed to the one and only road, said walk in that direction. So with that piece of valuable information I took off. How long I had asked, he said 1 km, Google was saying more like 2.5 kms. What's the difference on a soul that was going to walk 300 plus kms.

    After about 15 minutes I could see the church from a far. And it looked as lovely as seen on the internet. A renewed spring in the step. The roads were deserted, it was the typical day as one might see in "moving to the Sun" tv programme on buying a house in rural, France, Portugal or Spain. Nothing on the road, now and then a car would go past, the roads were cobble stone more than tar on it, the birds were singing loud as, and the heat of the sun was just lovely not scorching. There were a few old character houses for sale. One for me, one for Nino and one for Barbara. We are sorted guys. Let’s move to Valega

    Coming closer to the church there were people outside. Ok so it was Pentecost Sunday. But surly why all of this crowed. No one spoke English. So after admiring the church from the outside for awhile I thought I will peep into the church to see what was happening. It was jam packed inside. And the reason for the crowed was that it was first communion celebrations for the little boys and girls. Brought back memories of SL. It is very much a celebration day in SL too. Party afterwards, all relations and family get together ,everyone dressed grandly, the little ones in white lovely long dresses, and the boys in white and black trousers and bows etc. What a blessing to see this. The loft had been opened to accommodate the crowds, so got this bright idea as soon as mass was over to sneak up there and see the inside of the church from a vantage point. This area too was also all in painted tiles. That was great, to see it from that view point Priceless!!!. Must be my lucky day.

    After a photo shoot, and prayers I had to head back quick smart to catch the train back. It was once each hour. Getting closer to the station I thought I had got it wrong , false alarm I was a few minutes ahead of time. There had been one stall selling refreshments at the church, I had bought this kind of something between a cake and a biscuit. After eating some of that while waiting for the train, all washed down with some water. I was sorted.org.

    Next stop was the port wine cellars. My favourite drink Sweet Port or Sherry Wine. Don't hold that back I sleep after 2 drinks. That's my limit. 😴. The famous Porto cellars ( so many to choose from) "home of Port wine" was on the way back. So I hop off from the train, asked a gent who again was very helpful, and he said to come with him as he was going to the metro too, he didn't mind missing the metro that came by in order to help me. Thought I will go to the Sandeman cellars as I have drunk their Port wine. The Next English tour was at 6,00pm. And the time was around 3.00. Bugger that. You could have just wine tasting. That was good enough for this alcoholic who had never ever been drunk at the age of 58. BUT that was soon to be remedied.

    So I thought I would first try the ruby you get 3 glasses of this for tasting, and a human being explains about the 3. Well liked 2 not much about the very old one which was 10 years old. So in for penny in for a pound I would not get another opportunity like this on this trip, so went back and asked for another tasting of the other 2 different ports. White, and Tawny. Hmmm my head was feeling light, and no way could I have walked a straight line. Yeppiiii I think I was as high as I would ever get.

    Most of the first 3 was yet remaining. They give you a glass of water to cleanse you palette. Emptied my wee bottle of water into the glass, and a another glass. Poured the rest o f the two I liked from my first tasting to the bottle and I was out of there before I went to sleep.

    In my best interest I needed to eat some food. It was on the river side, and not sure if it was like this everyday but there are stalls and cafes galore. Stopped at one of the cafes sat out side and ate steamed spiced squid. The life of the rich and famous drunk, sunning one self, and watching the world go by. Could get used to this. (There is one photo where I am just about sleepy sun bathing at the café). Wish I could be a "kept woman".

    Even after all of this time I was yet not fully in charge of my faculties, but I found a quick cure for drunk or slightly drunk, and that was climb a steep hill. I could have crossed the river on a bridge at that level, but I needed to get back up to get to the cathedral where I was going to get my Camino passport stamped for the first time. Well by the time I got to the top of the road again I was as sane as my normal self would ever be.

    Walked the bridge and crossed the river, found the cathedral, got the stamp, and now had to start my walk. As my hotel was about 8 kms out of Porto in order for me to be true to my self I needed to walk that part so I could say I started my walk in Porto. That was a lovely walk. Part way I took a old tram to experience that too.

    Back at the hotel, getting laundry done was on the agenda. By now it was close to 7.00pm. Had a quick chat with Colin and went to the laundromat. Everything was in PORTUGESE. So went off looking for someone to help. Found these 3 boys and a young girl who came back to the self service, but even they could not work it out. Then a lady came to the self service and helped me out not just to work it out but gave me .10 as I was short of this. While that was happening went for some dinner. The Manager there was so helpful, I had asked about the fish having bones. Once the meal came to my table he cut the fish up for me and took off the bones. ( I was loved by this stranger who cared for my well being ) and gave me complimentary fried squid to try as well. I think I need to move to Portugal!!!!!.

    A long full on day. I sure know how to rest on my holiday!!!!!.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Matasinhos to Vila do Condo

    May 21, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Up and early today. Today was "The Day" 22 km on my own, on a prayer and a wish, with much good will in my heart I stepped out. Leaving the familiar room of the last 3 days was scary. Hmmm.......... . The pack was full, but not too heavy on the back. As it was going to be a long day I was caught wanting to pack for every eventuality in to my day pack, My main luggage was being transferred. It is very well organised these days. I often think I would have loved to live in the 1800s but living in today’s world has it’s plus points huh.

    The photos speak of the walk today. The white sandy beaches are endless. The walk , was great, 98% of the journey is on walkways built over the sand. I am glad to be alive and well.

    My plan is to keep to 4 km an hour, and also have rest periods each hour. That worked out fine for the first hour. I needed to attend to a toe that had been playing up. ( ie just needed to put a sticky tape, no blood and gory yet). But more importantly I needed to find a toilet. Well that was going to be hard at 8.00 in the morning. Along the coast once I left the residential and commercial area it is all high rise apartments. There was the familiar golden archers of Mc Donald's, but they were not opened. Just as I was leaving they opened. So great timing Mrs James. In NZ I am in the habit of scouring public toilets from 1 to 10. I smiled to myself Colin would have sure asked what the score was if he was with me.

    But I walked an extra 3 km on top of the 22 as I had to keep drinking water, but then it also meant I had to find toilets. Rather than contemplating or meditating, my reflections were of how and where is the next toilet was going to be.😂

    One time I was tired and there were little fish that were no longer than 3 inches but rather than swimming they just shoot from the bottom and jump and get the food, and then go down and just stay vertical. It was mesmerising to watch. I stopped to look, sat down on the walkway gave my legs a break by leaning my legs on a walkway post that was good to get the blood going the other way. That was a yoga posture. See learning comes in handy.

    Into the accommodation at 2.00pm. The relief of a hot shower. Legs were hurting and getting stiff. Up goes the legs on the wall, Hot water bottle on the legs, 2 hours later good as gold, no aches no pain, no stiffness. Went for a walk round the block. Other Camino travellers were coming in to the city looking tired, stressed and tired😀 and I felt good, that I had got in early, and had a rest already. In the middle of the night , the sole of the foot was hurting. Applied some cream, and this morning good as gold.

    Whether wise the day was breezy, a bit cold, needed my jacket on for most of the day.

    It is 4.30 in the morning, everyone is sleeping and I am writing my travel journal.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Vila do Condo to Apulia Praia

    May 22, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I had been told the day before by this useless as receptionist when asked if I could have breakfast early in a take away bag. No problem that would be left out side my bed room door that evening. Well it was not there, and the reception was closed ( no 24 hour service at this place.). I sent an email, but no answer, so when breakfast served the next morning it was 8.30, the owner was apologetic, she gave me a packed breakfast had a cup of tea and I was on my way.

    Another day of 18 km to walk according to Google,. I ignored the route google was informing me, instead I was going to walk along the sea front. The walkway was not known to Google, made sure by asking locals and following the signs. Walking along the way and I was happy as Larry. Even managed to clap my hands and walk to the sound of the surf on my left. Interestingly when I walk in NZ I normally listen to audible books, or meditate or tell the rosary. Well the last 2 days I have said the rosary but not listened to a single story book.

    Met an American lady walking with a French guy. She was limping, no accommodation booked, but was going to Santiago before me. She was not a spring chicken either. Had been to India 7 times and thought there was something in India that called to her. She was carrying all of her pack, which was smaller than my day pack. Go figure that. Quite an alternative thinker. Was interesting making small talk with her. Her partner in the mean time was walking ahead of us bellowing French songs.

    After about 11 km I thought I would stop for lunch. The previous day in my haste to get from A to B I didn't stop at this small taverna which had a lovely aroma of fried sardines. I should have but didn't. So today I thought I will stop on a way side restaurant not a taverna. The food was average. The Portuguese use a lot of Olive oil. The food is literally swimming in oil. But you would not use the word obese in describing them, Interesting.

    Well after a few more km of walking things turned bad. Started off by my switching off the mobile phone to reserve battery when having lunch. When I tried switching it back on it wanted the SIM card pin number. Which I didn't think I had in my back pack. Once back in the hotel I found out I did have it the back pack. Durrrr and grrr......

    I came to a point where the walkway ended. And where do I go. Ini mini money moo. There was a car park and a few surfers around. Picked 2 that were together and asked these guys. They were from France and spoke English. And were lovely. Both looked up where I needed to go and were willing to take me to the hotel. Several times they asked. They were so sweet. But I said I needed the exercise as they had not heard about the Camino walk, was easier rather than explaining it all.

    Now I was walking along market garden area, kilo meters of it. I stopped to ask ever so often. I was told to carry on walking on this road. After a while this woman who spoke very little English who was working in one of these garden places, told me to go back a bit and take a dirt road. Honestly the road was so off the beaten track I could see no hotel, the road was not even a road, and my pack was heavy, I was wondering what on earth was I doing, would I have to walk all the way back to where I turned to come down this road.

    I had, had enough. I came to a junction which kind of had a better road. A car came by, I waved my hand and he stopped. But he spoke no English and did not know my hotel or the where about of it. Just then another car came by. I stopped him,, he had a t shirt that had the name Patrick. So I asked him, and he spoke no English but said get in. He was in a 2 wheel drive Ute. Wanted me to put mu pack on the deck. No way. I was holding on to my pack I had the walking poles. These were my surviving and fighting tools. ( I had contingency plans). This fellow was happy and tried to get too familiar, so I showed him my ring finger. He smiled and was good about it and took me all the way to the hotel. This must have been at least another 4 more kilo meters. Wow that felt good to be at the hotel.

    The hotel could not find my booking, what ? So showed then my booking confirmation, they were good about it, they rewarded me by giving 5 star service due to that. All's well and ends well.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Braga

    May 23, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So today the plan was to go to Braga. But I was also hoping to get some rest for the weary body. Had a relaxed morning and then breakfast at around 8.30, wrote my journal for the previous day caught up on NZ etc. I had got the bus time table, but had glanced at it saw that buses left each hour So went off to catch a bus at 10.00am. Well surprise surprise the buses left each hour till 9.00 in the morning. After that the next bus was at 12.45. Ha ha should have read the entire time table properly. But no stress back to the hotel, and caught up on my writing.

    Then off to catch the bus. One and 3 quarter hours later in Braga. This is one of the oldest cities in the Iberian peninsula. The Romans fortified it long long years ago. Both in Spain and Portugal when you see something old, you apparently say “it's as old as the Braga Cathedral”. The city of Braga was set up in 3rd century AD. The cathedral was built around the year 1089. Mmm cathedral old, me young.

    In the city they were enacting a Roman camp and days of old. With Roman music etc. The choir loft and the piped organ flutes were gob stopping. How on earth did people do these marvelous feats in the last hundreds of years. As usual when travelling in Europe you need to get some tape to stop your jaw dropping down and dragging on the ground.

    I had also wanted to go and visit Bom Jesus. Meaning Good Jesus. It is on top of a hill, and you can get there from Braga and either go in a water powered tram or climb 116 stairs. Other than the beautiful location on top of the hill, the sanctuary and the gardens, it is the Baroque Stairway that is so unusual. I think I gave Speedy Gonzales and Road Runner a run for their money. The last bus back to my hotel was going to be at 6.15 from Braga. So I wiped around Braga and Bom Jesus in 3 hours. Would have been nice to have more time. But it was not to be.

    All through this walk so far what I have noticed is the vegetable gardens people have in their homes. Some have flowers and veggies. But it is more that they seem to grow their vegetables rather than flowers if it came to a choice. Every little bit of garden space seems to be used by the industrious folk who are into that kind of life style. Very nicely done too.

    Back at the hotel by 8.00, the restaurant was closed, but the receptionist sent me to a local. Well you had to wait in a que to get in. And the food was par excellent. The prawns were fresh, you forget what true prawns should taste like in NZ. These were more like those you find in SL.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Apulia Praia to Esposende

    May 24, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Up nice and early even though I was only walking 12 kms. The food and beverages manager at the hotel was very nice. Normally they do not serve breakfast till 8.00 but I had asked for an early breakfast and was served at 7.00am. As a special treat he had a custard tart for me. A few days ago Shan had asked me if I had eaten any of these yet. I had not. She said mum it is a speciality you have to eat these. So here you go, I got given one without even asking for it. it was very nice too. It's called Pastel Belem. It is a trade name that can only be used in Lisbon. So out side of Lisbon it is called Pastel but the second name is different.

    On the beach side were these buildings which looked like silos, but they were actually houses, and also the Pohutukawa tree are presently starting to flower. Along the route you see yellow arrows and at times the scallop shell image. This shell image signifiers the different roads that meet in one final destination which is Santiago de Compostela. Some others also say that when the body of St James was brought back to Spain the ship got caught in a storm. When his coffin got washed ashore it was covered in shells. Hence the reason most pilgrims have a shell on their pack. Others also say that in the medieval times it was versatile as it could be used as a spoon, and a scoop for water etc.

    Today too I ignore uncle Google and kept to the ocean on my left. It started to spit a bit of rain, but not enough for me to put my poncho on. After about 5kms I hit the same road the bus had taken yesterday. Saw a church and went in and boy it was so nice. So beautiful to look at, but so peacefully and serene. There was only one other person in the church.

    After praying for a while I thought I would go to the café and have a cup of tea, and of course the famous toilet stop. After that I went back to the church which was just across. 10 steps at the most. And I stepped in and took off my pack sat and talked to God. I was on my own, in my father's house. Could have stayed there for a long long time. It was so very nice, balm to the soul, peace to the mind, and I did not want to leave.

    After a very long time I had to tell my self well you better make a move. So onwards and forwards I went. I saw a lady with a pack in the distance by the bridge which I had to cross. I thought my first sighting of a fellow pilgrim for that day. When I got to the bridge she was seated and was looking up Google making sure she was on the correct route. Stopped to talk with her. Her name was Catrin and she was from Germany. She spoke good English. So we started walking together. She was going to the same destination as in the area as me, but she had not booked her accommodation yet, was hoping to find a place once she got to Marinhas.

    As we walked she explained how she had done the French Camino last year. Walked 799 kms. But this year she had a problem with her legs and she was taking it slowly. So I asked her if she wanted to come and stay with Shyama and I. Shyama was joining me on my Camino walk from today on. We had a 2 bed roomed apartment for the night. She was very happy with that. So we kept walking and stopped for lunch and to give her leg a rest. Then it started raining and there was quite a bit of thunder too. No lightning at all, or maybe just couldn't see it, though it was a gloomy kind of day. Before leaving the café we had to put our ponchos on and I even had my back pack cover on.

    After a few more kms we found our place of accommodation. It is a very nice place . Catrin was very happy that she had decided to stay with us. We had plenty of time to get sorted, and then have cups of tea etc. Shayama was due to arrive around 4.00pm , ( Syama is my cousin's wife and she was joining me, and was flying in from SL). but her plane had got delayed for the sector from Lisbon to Porto, so she came in around 6.00pm. And now my walking buddy had arrived.

    Catrin had gone out and brought dinner rolls and fillings, I had a bottle of port that had been purchased 2 days ago. We had a simple but lovely dinner, and now winding down after a relaxing day. The other two have gone to bed. I will follow them very shortly.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Esposande to Viana do Castelo

    May 25, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    Up early 3 women on a mission!!. photo time outside and we stepped out of the apartment with a bounce in our step and a smile on our dial. Little did we know what a long long day it was going to be.

    We took it slowly as Catrin had to walk slowly. According to Google we had 22 kms to do. Catrin and I had both decided that we would like to do the central route as there were some very pretty places that were mentioned in our books. Shyama was happy to go along with what ever we decided to do.

    The first 5 kms we did in 1.5 hours, it took us that long because we were stopping for photos, and also walking at a slow pace. We stopped for breakfast around 9.30 and then the skies that had been threatening decided to come down, it was a pre cursor to what was going to be..... To start off it was just a drizzle, but as we walked along we decided to take our ponchos out. It was raining but yet nothing much to it.

    Lots of other walkers, some friendly, some not so. Some whom were happy to talk, some who did not want to talk to. The camino route is very well marked along the central route. Much better than the coastal route. Every 100 mtrs or so there is either a yellow arrows, or a camino emblem or both. Hard to get lost with that kind of markings. The terrain was very pretty, some times through woodlands, some time past farm land, other times through villages, past century old walls, past little chapels, and churches etc. In some places we saw a blue arrow. And that was for those following the route to Fattima.

    10 kms and we were just about to cross the river. It was called a cutting in the camino guide. We had been walking through this forest area and we found a guide book on the path. We thought some one must have dropped It, so picked it up to hand over in case we met the owner. About 300 meters on there was a fork in the road. There was a gent standing there. And the book belonged to him. He was very funny. When asked which country he was from he said he was from the moon. When we asked what way do you think we should be going he says you have to stack a stone on the pile and you will be shown the way. Then he saw 3 other women coming behind us, and says 3 women I can handle 6 women no way. I am off, and he took of like a rocket. Prior to that we met this gent who was living close to a church we had stopped, and he spoke good English. He just loved to talk. He had lived in Canda for 13 years and was very proud of it.

    By now the rain was a nuisance, and it was hard walking in the rain, with a pack up hill. At one particular place we had climbed up so far the mist was making it impossible for us to see too far. Catrin foot was aching, and all credit to her. She was carrying all her stuff too. The cemeteries in Portugal our kept tidy and pretty. There seems to be people who come and change the flowers in all the cemeteries we passed.

    We had been getting stamps on our passports along the way. At one church it was a self service situation. You needed to write your name,date, country and age. So onwards and upwards we marched along. By now the conversations had stopped unless it was to point out something, or to discuss how much further, or where on earth is a cafe. We walked in a forest with the scent of the eucalyptus and wild fennal. Our spirits picked up a bit. But that was short lived, the terrain was rocky, muddy, slippery and not nice. No villages, just the path. We had to keep stopping so that Catrin could have a rest. She felt she was holding us up, but this was a pilgrimage so helping fellow pilgrims was as important as getting to the destination. By now the conversations was more to take her mind off her aching foot. Finally we came to a village which had a cafe, coincidently the village was called chafe. Would have been preety poor if they did not have a cafe or a chef huh.!!!. We had in our keaness to look for a cafe missed the formal route as well. But that did not bother this navigator too much, I knew we could get back on track. After a hot soup in our tummys we were ready to go on. By now we had walked 17 kms.

    Catrin decide that was it for her, for the day. She was going to call a taxi to take her the rest of the way. So for the first time that day the two Sri Lankan ladies were on their own. We yet had 9 kms to walk. And after the first 4 kms it was uphill in the rain. We came to a quite a steep hill. By this time rain was just dripping off us and our packs. It did not matter any more. 🤔

    Finally we could see the destination city. The first thing you saw was the church on top of the hill in the distance. But we yet had 4 kms to walk. There was a river and the bridge that spanned it was over a km long. By now it was past 5.00 pm. Cars were going in each direction. And what ever part our body that was dry was wet by the time we crossed that bridge as cars that went bye could not care a hoot about us, the puddles on the surface was our bath water.

    Finally we got to our hotel, by then we had walked 27 kms. A drink of port wine went down a treat. It had been a long long day. Going for dinner was an effort. Poor Shyama had a baptism of fire.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Viana do Castela to Afife

    May 26, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After our long day yesterday, we were having a somewhat short day today. According to Google 12 kms. By now I have now worked it out following the camino route, be it the coastal way or the central way is very much different to Google. The camino way tries to keep you safe and off the main road. Where people seem to drive very fast.

    Went down for breakfast and the tables our very close to each other, we were seated next to a couple. As per normal pleasantries you make small conversation. They were on the Camino too. Then it came out that they were from NZ too, they were from Auckland. As we kept talking the man says was it you who signed the book in the church? the previous day. They had met the guy who loved to talk too. So it was very nice to meet a fellow country man.

    We were not going to start walking till 12.00. Before we started we wanted to go and see the church on the hill. I had read the view was magnificent. We just got to our room and the reception rung to say that luggage carrier was here. Holy Molly, I had forgotten to take our luggage down, it should normally be at the reception by 8.30 . Now it was 9.30 and we did not even have the bags ready. Wet cloths that had not dried over night were thrown in with wet shoes, clean clothes worn the night before got chucked in with plugs, cream and what ever. Honestly I need my head examined. Luckily we were in our room. I cringe at what could have happened had we not been in the room.

    You could take a tram (fununcular) up the hill, or else if you were keen you could walk up 6 kms. No guesses for what mode of transport we opted for. Catrin had spoken to me the previous night to say she was in a alburger (hostel) just behind the church. So we called her from the tram, and she was there waiting for us when the tram reached the top. The church was different in its simplicity, and the view oh well........ WOW.

    Back to the hotel, packs on our backs and we were off. Following the receptionist instructions we found led us on a de tour, but we saw an old neglected fort at close sight due to his incorrect instructions. Finally we got to the coastal route and after an ice cream we were on our way. Kept to the coastal route for about 7kms and then came on to the main road to get water and lunch. Then we followed Google. But tried as much as possible to keep to a road that was parallel to the main highway.

    In a previous post I mentioned how everyone was into their veggie gardening, the dirt here seems to be so fertile. No wonder things grow so well.

    When we got to our destination the owners were not there but the maid was waiting for us. It is a B&B place, very nice. The owners came in later. They had gone to Porto. The wife has stomach cancer for the last 3 years., and she had an appointment at the hospital. Shyama by now is feeling very tired, when they called us I had asked if their was any restaurants close by. So when we were offered a meal by them once they came back we gladly accepted their offer. I did not know then that they were actually going out for dinner. But she made a lovely soup for us quickly, she had offered to make a salad, which I had declined as I did not want to make more work for her, and fruits from the garden for desert.

    Please note I had not written my journal for the 19 and 20th these have now been updated. Make a cuppa, and sit down to read it.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler
    1

    Afife to Caminha -last night in Portugal

    May 27, 2018 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Cannot believe that the walk in Portugal is coming to an end. I have walked approximately ( 25+ 20+ 15+ 27+16+14)=117kms in 6 days. I have not accounted for the walking and running around in Braga as this was off the Camino track.

    The place we stayed last night was a lovely home. The husband and wife were so lovely, it is always nice when you get to meet humans such as them when on holiday. I had brought with me some NZ honey for my herbal tea. I gave it to her, hoping it will help her in some little way with her stomach cancer.

    We had a lovely breakfast, and got to taste custard tarts again. Yum..... Maria the owner had statues in the foyer and she was showing me a statue of the saint for that area. Her name is Senhora da Agonia. I also had noticed a statue of saint Anthony in the foyer. I had a lot of faith and devotion to St Anthony. I was meeting Colin in Lisbon on the 12th June so we could be there for his feast day. When she realised this she took me upstairs and showed her collection of St Anthony statutes. There were many . Some of them centaury's old. She then showed some books of the celebrations they have in August for the patron saints feast which runs for 3 days in the area.

    We were out of there and not 10 minutes down the road heard the church bells ring. And then Shyama spotted the church and said shall we go and see if there is a service on as there were cars out side. We were just in time for the start of mass. That was very good, and it was great we got to mass on a Sunday.

    After that we walked and walked. We came to this little village and the streets all had red flowers in green hanging baskets. We came around to a square and what a lovely picture. Beautifull......

    Then down to the sea front and lobster and prawns in a tomato gravy or sauce based rice. Luckily we had ordered only 1 portion, if not we might not have been able to move. The sun was out, the day was great, and the breeze was just enough to make walking comfortable. Our day today was 14 or so kms, so a comparatively short day.

    There is a lovely mountain in The back drop of Caminha. It is called mount Tecla, and also there is a fort in the middle of the ocean. This is called
    Fort da Insua it is built on a small island. This had been built to defend the sandbar at the entrance of the city.

    When we got to our destination which was another "casa". Bed and breakfast place in other words. A very old, but grand place. Kept in a good condition in a rustic way. Owned by a gent who was 87 years young. Our place was quite separate to the main house. Must have been the servants quarters in the good old days of the past. He was a widow, and refers to his house keeper as his governess. It is so nice to meet all these lovely people.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Caminha to Oia

    May 28, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Up early, as we had to have breakfast and be at the dock by 11.00am. Well talk about dinning in a stately manor house. The decor, the furniture, the cutlary, the china were all centuries old. OMG it was just so lovely. This gent had his own little chapel off the library. The library had a fire going, as did the dining room. I wished he could have adopted me. His family had owned it since the 1850's and it showed.

    Got to the dock and the boat guy was there. He had a stamp for our passport. Good job he asked for our passports if not I think the authorities at Santiago might have had an issue with our walking authenticity. One minute we are in Portugal, the next in no man's land, and then we are in Spain. All in the space of 5 minutes.we cross the river Minho. In Portugal side there was a dock, but when it comes to Spain, the boat which is one with an out board motor just lands on the sea shore and you jump off the boat on to the sand. There's is a photo of our lonely Boardman heading back to Portugal. It cost us euros 5.00 for each to come over.

    Our welcome dignitary in Spain was a snake. That was something that I certainly had not worried too much about. From then on it's right there in the fore front of your mind ,Thank you very much. Walking along the Spain's coast line was different as it did not have the wooden walkway. But it was between over grown under growth and scrub. So out came my trusted weapon of choice. My handy walking stick. I want to live as much as the snake. So as long as he went in the opposite direction to us, when we came face to face we were all going to live happily ever after. I wished and hoped he had my same sentiments.

    Finally we came to a village. It was right on noon. Our walking speed is approximately 4kms an hour. So we had walked a long distance in our mind, but actually it was only around 4kms. But as we had not seen any cafes on the way it was best to get our lunch here. We stopped at the first cafe. By now I would get my phone out, and try and translate words so both parties understood each other at cafes especially. When I put in the word rice the waitress says Paella. Fantastic. That and a jug of fresh lemon juice ordered we were both sorted. Well what a dish that was. It took a longtime to come, but it had to be the best in the world. My mouth waters thinking about it. Yum. I hope Shyamas does too

    It was a very long long day. Over 22 kms in all. Some of it on path ways, some on the main highway, some on over grown paths, and the coast at this stage was rocky. The houses were few and far between. The only good thing was if you needed a toilet break, you could go on the side, as there was no others in the vicinity. We only met one other person, and that too on the main road.

    After a long long day we got to our accommodation. Going out to have dinner was an effort. But luckily it was two doors next to the casa we were staying at. The Sangria was ok, not the best. Dinner was a need, more than a desire to eat. Bed was a desire that was an absolute necessity. Point of interest is that the main pillow in Spain is a very long one. It goes across the bed. It is narrow, but long. Useless bit of information I thought I will share.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Oia to Baiona

    May 29, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After having a fresh orange juice which was the only thing worth having for breakfast I was on my way. It was going to be a long day on my own. After yesterday which had been a long day our plan was to start early , and try and get to our destination early on in the day, and also try not to walk in the heat of the afternoon sun. With this in mind we requested breakfast for 7.30am. Well when I woke up it was 7.50am and Shyama was yet fast a sleep. I was out of bed and dressed and in the restaurant so fast my feet must have had wings. I was the only one who was having breakfast. Took a breakfast tray for Shyama. When I left the accommodation it was 10.00am so much for leaving early.

    It had rained earlier on, so it was good we had slept in, one might say a blessing. Shyama was having a rest day, and we were going to meet at our hotel in Baiona later on that afternoon. It was lovely to be alive, I had a spring in my step, the rain had made everything look fresh, and the coast line I was walking on was dotted with villages. Unlike the previous day I was on path ways most of the time, and now and then came on to the main highway PO 552. It was much easier to walk on the dirt track , than on the road. Ones feet had started to feel the pounding on the road, as opposed to the cushioning on the dirt. A young lady passed me, and an hour or so later I passed her. Only because she has stopped for a bite. She was young, she was taller so she was faster. Also she did not stop for photos like this human.

    Toilet stops, Bon Camino to all those you pass, or who pass you, looking out for snakes in your path, you were in to the swing of things.

    I stopped to watch a stone carver at work. he had drawn out what he was going to chisel out on the rock, and he offered to give me a stamp for my passport. By now you like to have stamps that are out of the ordinary. The square boaring ones, were ones that you no longer wanted on your passport. Then the young lady who had been playing tag with me caught up, and slowed down to talk. She had 3.5kms more to go, so we talked as we walked and hey presto the time and distance just goes by. After wishing each other Bon Camino I carried on, I had a further 10 or so kms to go.

    I stopped on the rocks off the beach to have my lunch which was fresh orange juice watered down and an orange., when a crowd of pilgrims I had passed earlier on at a cafe came by. One of the guys was on his own, and he was walking ahead of the others. So when he waved, I waved and offered him a piece if my orange. He happily had that, and he carried on. I stayed for a while as I wanted to air my feet, and also enjoy the scenery.

    Then a little while later after I had been walking again I had to make a choice. Either just follow the main road, or go on the Camino route, which was up a mountain. So I thought I will be brave and go up the Camino route. At this point I could not see any of the others who had passed me a short time ago. Once on the mountain path, I was worried, mostly about the creepy crawly ones. I had my trusted walking stick, since seeing the snakes the previous day, I had this in my hand all the time. It was hard work climbing, some times the way was not marked properly, and you hoped you were on the correct path, and other times you wished you would see a pilgrim and then you hoped it was not going to be an ax murderer, that was going to come out of the woods, or round the corner and say hi to you. Once I was quite high I could see the others who had passed me had gone on the main road. I was on my own. Honestly Colin you cannot call me a chicken anymore or a scary cat, I was so darn brave walking up there over the saddle and down the other side. I met no one, no human, no snake. Thank you audio story books for keeping my mind occupied. This is the first day I had listened to one on my holiday. I had downloaded so many, but had not wanted to listen till today. Normally listening to audio stories, or praying or meditating is what I do when I walk.

    I was so happy to come back to civilisation. And then finding our accommodation was not hard, as it was a 16th century castle. I was able to see the fort from far away. Getting to the front entrance though was like walking through a maze. So with the help of a lady and then a gent I got to the hotel. It was very grand. You felt you had entered a 5 star hotel which had the old world grandeur. Shyama was as happy to see me, as I was of her. Walking buddies reunited.

    I think it would be fair to say at this point, that Sonali walks over hills and valleys on the farm, where as Shyama only gets to walk on flat areas in Colombo. So Ladies and Gents Hats Off and Take a Bow to Mrs Shyama Perera for her effort over the previous two days, right after a long distance international flight. Congratulation Shyama!!!!! I could not have asked for a better companion on my first Camino walk.

    The hotel which had been built in the sight of the castle incorporated some part of the old castle. It was lovely. So was the jacusy and sauna we both went too. My weary body just melted in the water. In Spain sista is from around 1.00 to 4.00 pm or so. They start work at 10.30 and then finish for the day around 9.00pm.

    Since coming in to Spain, my phone had given up the ghost. So all today I had no Google maps nor phone. Golden rule of having some form of communication had been broken, but I live to tell the tail. So first order of things was to go to a Vodaphone shop. Much to my dismay though Mr Handsome had told me in Portugal that it would work in Spain, apparently that was not the case. So got a new sim card as I needed that to have Google maps handy at all times.

    After that we did some retail therapy, and then some dinner. We had two starters and one of it was fried green chillies. These were not spicy at all, but they were really nice. It was a first for both of us. I was glad to hit the bed. Walking in the sun, and over the mountain was hard, but I had concurred some fears of being a scary cat cum chicken licken. I was very satisfied with my achievement, even though I was tired. 22 kms was what I had walked today on the Camino.

    The hills in the far distance of the main photo, was what I climbed over to get to Baiona.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Baiona to Vigo

    May 30, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today the breaksfast by far was the best we have had on our trip. For the first time in 2 weeks I saw a fried egg. All these days for breakfast it has been continental, other than when we stayed in Afife where we were served scrambled eggs. All the other days it is cold meats, cheese, cereals, cake and bread. So it was nice to see a western buffet style breakfast.

    On a hill far away was not an old ruggard cross but a large statue of the Virgin on the Rock. It is a marble statue with the virgin holding a boat in her hand. Parts of it is made from marble, the crown is made from porcelain.

    After a walk on the castle walls and turrents it was bye bye to our stay in a castle and back to being poor pilgrims on foot. Today we were walking around the city of Baiona for most of the time. Meaning it was so spread out, and was around a very large harbour. It was a beautiful city. The beaches were so soft and white it must be a paradise for sun lovers in the coming summer months.

    We had decided last night that every one and half hours or so we would take a break. So we took longer breaks today. Our pace seems to be dropping, but from now on there is only one more day that we have a walk of over 20 kms. Seems as if the time is going by so quickly. Due to the fact the last 3 days have been such long walking days I have not caught up on updating my journal. I needed my beauty sleep more than writing my journal. Today our walk was 21 kms. 3 days of over 20ks each day, I my self cannot believe it.

    Today had booked an apartment so that we could catch up on doing our laundry. The owner was a lovely person. She even took us to the super market. Our plan had been to cook a meal of rice and curry and have it in the apartment. That was so, so nice to eat a home cooked meal after all this time of eating out. Yummy. Funny how you crave for mother land food after a while to just make your taste buds sing and keep your senses appeased.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Vigo to Vigo

    May 31, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    The apartment we stayed was great. Mainly due to the fact we had been able to cook and get all our washing done and dried. Also it always helps when the local lady had been so friendly. Need to give her a 5 star rating on bookings.com.

    Had to zip off the long trousers to be shorts as it was drislling when we left. It steadily got worse. Had to put on rain coats and back pack cover on to keep it dry. (In case your wondering better to walk in pants that are not wet at the bottom).

    The later half of the walk was past the port and then ship building area.

    Arrived at the hotel just on 12.00. Now waiting in the reception to go to the room but their not ready yet.

    Thought of you Shan when I saw this guy making humungus bubbles. Peggy and Shan used to do this when she was little. Thought you might like it, so took a photo just for you. 😊

    This afternoon we have been doing some retail therapy. Hmmm... won't say anymore about that,as Colin reads this post every day.

    On our ambling back to our hotel the penny dropped. In order to get the Compostella which is the certificate one gets for compleating the Camino each pilgrim need to have 2 stamps on the passport each day in the last 100 kms, of the walk. So back to the hotel to make sure that we were now under our 100kms. And yes now we are down to 93kms. I had been to the cathedral this afternoon, while Shyama was having a massage, and it was closed at that time. So a quick check with the receptionist at the hotel and he said there was evening mass around now. So quick rush to the cathedral and mass was just ending, the priest as as very nice, he gave us the stamp,one down, one more to go.

    On the way we had enquired at a few restaurants if they would give us a stamp if we had dinner. But none of them were doing it. But just out side the church there was a Taperia. They did give the seal. So that's where we had our dinner. Now we are sorted for today.

    We think our young people in NZ have a drinking problem, well it is Thursday evening and you should see the crowds round a pub or taparia. The last photo is the crowd that has spilt out of the pub. The crowd was already out of the pub this afternoon when I went to the church this afternoon.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler
    14

    Vigo to Redondela

    June 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    While we were having breakfast at the hotel which was next to tasteless, we could see the sky's opening up. Our thoughts were we had to walk in that. Grin and bear it ladies, we are pilgrims you take the good and the bad. One could always pray, and hope we are heard. So after a glass of freshly squeezed O.J. and a cup of tea, and a prayer to the one above we were on our way. By now the rains had settled down to a drizzle, and after 10.00 minutes or so it was completely gone. We were heard!. As a side note the last thing we do before we leave our accomodation is to say a prayer, and we take it in turns to do this.

    We were on a roll in getting stamps now. Today I think we got 5. Impressive. I have only one more page and my passport is completely full. I either need to get another passport, and if not do it over some of the printed matter on the back of the passport. Will cross that bridge when I come to it.

    The journey today was climbing but it was all the way a gentle climb. We were just walking round the entire port of Vigo for miles. It is a large port, and seems to go on for miles. When we first saw the view of the harbour and the port as we were walking it looked great. But as we kept walking the view just got better., yet it was the same view basically.

    We stopped for a shoe shopping break, and then off again. We went to a church and for a change it was open and there were people in it. As we knelt to pray a gent came up and asked if we wanted a stamp in sign language. Of course we did, we had been going to ask, I think the gent was a priest. So that was great. We are told the staff at Santiago de Compostella like pilgrims to have stamps from churches. One yesterday, one today we are on a mission.☺

    Then we were walking past a taverna and a dog was playjng with two people, and we stopped to watch. A old lady came out and asked if we wanted a stamp. Yes! We are on to it. A cranberry drink and some nachoes with it, and we were on our way.

    Photos a galore, walking through a forrest, a beautiful glade, a small but very cute water fall, and now two very hungry pilgrims wanting some lunch and not a taverna to be seen. Then there is a sign to say 500 meters to a bar. Yes !!!!!

    Well it was not just 500 meters, but it was up a very steep climb. If you were not hungry you would be by the time you got to the top. But the food and the service was worth it. I ate the biggest pasta bowl in my life, and Shyama did justice to a baguette which was a foot long. ( Of course we shared each other's food).

    The distance today was 16kms and finding our accomodation was a bit of an issue, but we got there. We are both of the mind to get some bread and noodles and have it the apartment.

    My body is starting to feel the ache of non stop walking for the last 2 weeks. 12 days straight on the Camino, and two days prior to that in Porto , not to mention the plane journey and the side trip to Poland. Come the morning your back on the road, and actually looking forward to what's on for the day. We met a lot of pilgrims while having lunch at the taverna, 6 cyclist came along, but after lunch when we were walking we met so many cyclists and walking pilgrims, including a young girl from Australia.

    The main photo is me getting the blood back from my legs to the rest of my body. Coming down the steep hill was hard on the knees. The elevation was 240 meters and we came down some very steep steep parts to get back to sea level. Also in the pictures you see how still the water in the harbour is. It was like a painting at times.

    A big thank you to all of you who comment, post, like etc. As that makes it a two way communicatuon and everyone who know's me, know what an introvert, actually quite, shy person I am.🤗.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Vigo to Arcade

    June 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Today we had a relative short and relaxing day. Covered approximately 8kms. It seems as if we are climbing quite a bit now. Today we climbed up to 190 mets and then dropped down again. Was in the destination hotel before noon.

    Now we have joined the central route and so there is a lot more pilgrims, and also a lot more cyclist. Came across this board where some people have signed the shell and left it on this board. As today is Saturday this afternoon the country is on holiday. Not much open after lunch time.

    Have a nice view from our bed room. The church is just oppersite the hotel and mass at 8.00pm to night. So we are sorted for Sunday mass again.

    Been out for a walk and brought myself a hat, so did Shyama. I had to buy one as my so called friend Heather and my critical child both thought my existing hat was ugly, thanks a lot. After all that critic I have lost all self esteem, 😶 hence had to buy a hat. (The sun is getting quite hot now. I am two shades darker, not that any one of you will notice.) Please be warned I will be sending my invoice to you two (Heather and Child).

    I needed some sleep or else I am getting climatised to the Spanish way of life . Siesta time today for me from 1.00 or so till nearly 4.00pm. VERY NICE. The past few days I have been burning the mid night candle so it was good to catch up on 😴.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Arcade to Pontevedra

    June 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Today our distance to travel was approximately 12kms. For us seasoned walker's it was going to be a walk in the park. Up and out of the hotel by 9.00am. Even though it would be lovely to travel earlier to that, most places do not serve breakfast till 8.30am. The Spanish live a life of less stress. So the good thing is they make you slow down too. You do not hear drivers tooting when someone has stopped to drop of a person or to have a chat. The ones behind wait till the conversation has finished. They will always stop at the zebra crossing if no traffic signals. But if there is traffic signals then you as s pedestrian too need to follow the rules.

    Arcade the town is famous for its Oyesters, and you can go on a little d tour at some point and eat these, but we were not going to be doing this today.

    Walking on the bridge, across a small river named Verdugo was very picturesque. The mist was yet hanging over the mountains. The water was more like a lake than a river. It was lovely. Real Patience Strong verse material. It even had a sandy beach.

    Then it was climbing up cobble streets, and goat tracks and mountain paths. Through lovely small forests it was hard but very nice to walk "The Way."

    I have two stories to tell today - one is about David and Gloliath. We came across a snake and he was coming towards us. We stopped and told him to go the other way. He did not listen. So he left us no other choice. I used my trusted walking stick and hit him as hard as I could. He did not know, what struck him. Once I started I did not stop first; it was stopping him on the tracks and then it was stopping him full stop, and then Shyama joined in as well. So he was now either in snake heaven or hell. Who cares. Colin I think you should take me hunting. I will show you how it's done.🙄🤗🤓.

    The next story is we met a Canadian lady aged 69 doing her 7th Camino. This one she started on the 31.03.2018. To date she has walked 1400 kms on this journey. And now has 60 more to go. This has been the longest Camino she has done. And to top it off she was carrying her own back pack. Her Husband was in BC canada looking after the cats and mowing the gardens.When I asked why she does just Caminos, why nor some other country to go for a hike or tramp. She loves Spain, and it keeps calling her. As charming as it was to meet her, it was a wake up call to my pride on the misley 200kms I have walked so far.

    Pilgrims every where at the moment. Mainly because all the Spanish and Portuguese routes have joined up. So from now on it is going to be like this. We were having a bit of lunch in a cafe after we checked in and rested. They were coming in drones. From now on there is going to be swarm of bees going to Santiago. We even met the New Zealanders we had met over a week ago. So that was lovely. Hugs and kisses and we walked together for a very short time, after which we parted company as they were going on a d'tour.

    We walked today's paths in record time. We were in our hotel by 12.30pm. That is with hill climbs, weewee stops etc.

    Now it's resting time as to tomorrow is going to test our metal. 21 kms or so uphill most of the way, need to start early. One of the reasons for doing it so fast today was the weather was so great. It was not sunny neither was it raining. It was just right for walking.

    Once again both of us have had a siesta time, and now we will go and get some dinner. Some of the photos is of our dinner and Sangria from last night. As you can see both of us are Far From Starving. In case your wondering I do love my Sangria. Oh well I like Port too, and Sherry too. But please bear in mind never been drunk.

    One photo is of a fig tree with so many figs on it, they were not yet ready for harvesting what a pity. One of the photos with the walking pilgrims, the Canadian lady Charlott is the one with the blue back pack cover walking at the back.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Pontevedra to Caldas De Reis

    June 4, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    We started off early today, as we were not too sure if it was 21 or 19 kms we were going to be walking. This was our last longest day. After this we have one day of 17kns and another one of 16 kms. And a short day. As it was, the days walk turned out to be 25kms.

    But it is official; the writer of this journal is a MORON, and the likes of my husband will agree with me and even go on to say "I knew that all the time". We were having breakfast and we were talking to a Polish lady who the previous day had walked 35 kms,and ended up getting blisters on her foot, they had tried to do the walk in 6 days. Her brother had got up at 5.30 in the morning and left, as he was attempting to walk the rest of the 60 kms today. She was going to catch a bus to Santiago de Compostella, as her foot was hurting to much. She went on to mention it was going to be raining all day. I had looked out that morning too and thought it was going to rain. Any sensible person would have taken their wet weather gear. But not muggings here, she sent off her water proof pants with her main luggage which was transported each day. Stupid stupid stupid.

    2 to 3 kms into our walk it drizelled, it rained, it poured. Out came rain coats and back pack covers and ponchos, then the sun came out for a short time, we would just get off the wet gear off, and back again the skies decided other wise. So we had 20% sun shine and 80% rain. This in 25kms of walking fantastic. NOT.

    We met with the American family we had met at dinner and breakfast the day before, walked a short time talking to them. There was not many places to stop and get food today, so we had some snacks stashed up in our back packs. This was actually breakfast I had not eaten, but taken to eat on the go. But about 10 kms into our walk there was a cafe high up on the peak of our walk. It was doing a roaring trade with all the walkers stopping for a hot drink and lunch. There I even met a kiwi from Palmerston North, with an Australian friend. She had two daughters studying in Wellington, and I had a daughter studying in Plalmerston North.

    After a hearty lunch and a glass of fresh OJ we were back on the path. Even though it was raining you appreciated the walking path. It was sometimes through very picturesque woods, then at times through small grapevine plots, at times parralel to the main highway, but most of the time it was through beautiful country. This walk needs to be on everyone's bucket list at least to do it once.

    When we were close to our destination I thought I will look for the way to our place of accommodation, trying to multi task in the rain, I stubbed my toe, and saw stars through the rain, my anger with myself now grew to mamoth proportion, not only was I sopping wet, but now I had a very painful toe. I had changed my wet socks at one point, so that I would not get blisters, but the pair I now had was quite soft, so ofcourse I felt the pain through my boots. Honestly!!!!!!!

    Finally we got to our destination, which thankfully was slam bang in the middle of the city. Soon as got to the apartment we went and got some provisions. Shyama does the cooking I do the chopping stuff. Mainly because she can cook better than me. Once again it was rice and curry for dinner. We were so tired but even through we went to bed around 9.00pm neither of us apparently did not get to sleep till around mid night. In my case only because I was listening to a book, and was scared. So any one who believed my yarn about killing a snake the day before is a Moran just like me, or you do not know me that well. What was good though was Colin thought I had done the deed, I love it when I get one over him. Love it! love it! love it!!!!

    I will put the photos on tomorrow.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Rest for the weary soul and body

    June 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    This is a much needed day of rest for the body, mind and soul. Ignoreing the lead up to me flying out of NZ, I have been on the go, not wanting to miss out on my days in Europe. Some say you can rest when your dead, I think I buy into that philosophy. Making the most of my time here, living life to the fullest is what I believe whole heartedly. But today my physical and mind needed this rest, and it is enjoying it in spades.

    I had booked a two bedroomed apartment for our stay in Caldas De Reis. This place is known for its spas, they have thermal spas in and around. This area. Went for a massage this morning, and hope to go for a spa shortly. Other than that both of us have done sweet nothing.☺

    So today for my photos I am going to be photos of flowers I have taken along the path of the Camino. Hope you enjoy some of the best from my collection.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Caldas do Reis to Puentecesures

    June 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today the Camino walkers other wise known as Shyama and Sonali were up early, sorted, feasted on breakfast of fried eggs and garlic mushrooms, and we were on our way.

    Google was saying 14 kms, but by now we know to add on 3 to 4 kms more. And by the time we got to our hotel it was 18kms. But to be honest it was more a leisurely stroll. There were hills to climb and dales to walk through but it was preety, soothing to the mind and soul. Met the 2 kiwies from Auckland when we were stopped at a way side joint to have lunch. I call it a joint as it was not a taverna, and neither was it a cafe. Met an American gent, a German gent and a Croation gent who was very keen to have a photo with us. Met more German ladies too. I think the Camino has more walkers from Germany than any other country. Marita why are you not here.

    We checked into our hotel by 2.45 or so, now it's siesta time, not sure if one should join them if you cannot beat them. Or else just go for a nosey round the town. Seems to have a huge industrial building with smoke or steam coming out. Need to see what that is all about. Went and checked it and it is a wood mill on the other side of the river, and a Nestles factory on this side if the river.

    In order to jinx the rain, I wore my wet weather pants, and you guessed it no rain, not a spot, not a drizzle not a drop. Will try the same philosophy and see if reverse psychology is going to do the trick tommorrow as well. This part of Spain is known as Galicia. And apparently 90% of the time it rains. Home away from Home!!!!!.

    Shyamas leg started hurting on the top of her foot about 5 kms before the end of the journey. She is going to rest it this afternoon and evening, and hopefully all will be well in the morning. She has decided not to take any medication, will decide whats happening tomorrow based on how she feels in the morning.

    Included is photo of my Camino passport all stamped up. On to my second passport now. Bragging rights.🤗.

    The last photo is a grain store house that most homes seem to have. This is a small one compared to some others we gave seen on our travels. Their built of the ground in the gardens of most stand alone homes.

    For now adios amigos.    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Puentecesures to Milladoiro

    June 7, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Our penultimate day. Tomorrow we reach Santiago de Compostella. God willing.

    Me trying to jinx the whether did not work today. Mice and man and God and plans!!!!.

    Last night the dinner was the worst we have had on the walk. But it looked as if the people on the next table had it worse. The hotel had a skeleton staff which was a receptionist cum waiter times 2. But moving on......

    Today was wet, overcast and set for the day by the looks.we walked 21 kms with the last 1.5 being the only time the whether let up. The rest of the day it drizzled, rained and was a pain. But you learn to take the good with the bad.

    Today we passed Padron. This is believed to be the place where St James Body was brought through to go to Santiago. It was very meaningfull to see the church and the stone known as Pedron ( the stone to which the boat which was carrying the body of st James was tied too) under the alter of the church. The city apparently got its name from this stone. Coming into the city we passed a market where you could get a stamp on your passport. It had fresh fish crabs the biggest have ever seen, meat, salted fish of every kind. Yum.

    Tonight we are just 8kms from our final destination. Yepeeedo. We are staying at another very nice place. I had booked this is a treat. After all our hard walking I believed in rewarding ourselves. When Shyama decided to join me I just changed a single room to a twin room. Most places that I had planned to stay were on the way of the Camino walk. This one and one other place were the only two places that we had to de tour fro the Camino way. But I later found out that we were only approximately 500 mters from the Camino route to come here. We just came of the Camino way too early today. Should have just kept to the Camino Path as my gut told me too. No harm though just a bit longer. But not as if I had to cook dinner.
    Passed a place where pilgrims could dip their weary feet and cool down after all the walking. Was nice.

    Talking of dinner mmm...... it was absolutely fantastic. The food was par excellonce. The ambiance, the service, my only regret is I am not here for longer.😀. Good job Colin does not pay the bills or see the credit card statements. He leaves it to the accountant. 🤔🤗

    Till tomorrow    Read more

  • Sonali JamesCoastal CaminoTraveler

    Milladoiro to Santiago de Compostella

    June 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Yes we have done it. We arrived into Santiago de Compostella around 10.40 this morning. I cannot believe It. All the plannng, close to a year. With God's Grace and Blessings I have accomomplished something that I feel very proud off. Hope Shyama feels the same.

    What I had read before hand was, if you got to the sanctuary by 10.00am and got your passport in, then there was a good chance that you would be able to get your Compostella in 2 hours. Which would also mean at the pilgrims mass at noon your country would be read out as arrival of a pilgrim from that country. Armed with this bit of information we planned to leave our fancy accomodation by 8.00am. Breakfast taken, and we were out by 8.00, Good for us.

    It read 7 point some kind of kms shortly on the start of our journey once we got back on the Camino route. After walking approximately 3kms we see another rmilempost with 7.kms. that is not the first time that has happened on the walk. But by now who cares about a few more kms. Uphill, down hill, outskirts of Santiago, pass small schools, and large schools we were marching forward. Getting our last stamps on our passport too. Cannot forget the stamps, just like cannot forget the cheese and ham that has been served each and every day for breakfast. If I do not see another piece of ham for the rest of this year call me satisfied.

    We were happy, both of us sang hymns, said the rosary, sang more hymns, realised how we did not no the words of a single hymn from start to finish, spoke about this walk, what it had meant to each of us, how it would change us from now on even in a minuscule way.

    Once we got to the cathedral, we did not even have time to take a photo, as we needed to get our passports in as mentioned above, and also drop of our back packs as we are not allowed to take backpack in either into the cathedral. So got to the hotel first, dumped the packs. ( my shoulders are missing the pack, it has got withdrawal symptoms). ( I think Colin you cannot call your self Sherpa Tenzing from now on, those bragging rights go to me now).

    When we got to the place that gives the Compostella the que was a mile long, so scratch that idea, we decided first to go to the noon mass. While at the mass I did my confession, as there were so many priests round the corridors. So did that with a English speaking priest. After mass approached him and asked if I could do the reading for the English mass on Saturday. That sorted, went off to get the passport and Compostella sorted. There was yet long que , but much shorter than before.

    I am now the proud owner of a Compostella and also a certificate to say that I have walked 280 kms. Impressive!!!!!!!. (That too will be going up on the wall at home)

    After that a much needed lunch by then the time was 2.00pm. Then the skies opened, there was thunder bolts going on over head, and the place was pelted with train, we had just got in on time I reckon all in all. I remember Thathie saying "St Peter and St Paul are playing marbels in heaven" 😏. Thathie was proud of his daughter, but for this achievement he would say " parka thing know Sonali and Shyama did"

    While getting our Compostella when Shyama went up to get her one, the guy at the counter asked her what country, and she said Sri Lanka. So he says you should go to the guy next to me, as he is from SL you should get him to do your Compostella. So she starts talking to this person, and he is a seminarians who has come from SL for a short while of training to Spain. What are the chances that he would be the one doing Shyamas certificate. He then went on to give her some very good news. The Botofumerio would be on display at the evening mass.

    As this was Shyamas last full day we went out around the place to do some shopping, and then went for the 7.30 pm mass as well. There we got front row seats, and had the opportunity to see the famous botofumerio in action. Wow that was something. (I cannot post the entire video, so please look it up on youtube. It so worth seeing. Believe me. I can only post 10 second videos and that would not do it justice. Just type in Botofumerio in Santiago de Compostella)

    It was announced before communion only those, that have received the sacrament should come up for communion. We were seated on the very first row. Well there was this stupid young teenager who tried to walk off with the communion. And the priest who was the celebrating priest called her up, and she mocked him and put it in her mouth. I felt like smacking her one, honestly she should have been kicked out litteraly from the sanctuary not just the cathedral. There was I would think approximately over 2000 at that mass. And the noon day mass must have had double that amount of people.

    After that mass we had a pilgrims get together, and a thanks giving prayer time in a side chapel, the priest asked me to do a reading for that service too☺. We were asked to share our stories of the Camino if we wanted too, which we did, and then we were taken to the crypt of st James and a final prayer was said there before we all dispersed. Perfect end to a perfect walk.

    Then had some dinner, walked a bit, took some photos of the square and the cathedral, there were some street musical group playing Spanish music and songs, listened to it for a short while and then to bed.

    Note the last photo is from 7kms away the Santiago cathedral in the mist. Hmmmmmm.....

    Thank you dear heavenly father, with thy grace I have archived what I set out to do. Walking the walk, touching me, talking to me as I walked this path. May my Camino carry on, as I now journey through my life that you have destined for me.    Read more

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