Dubrovačko-Neretvanska Županija

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  • Day8

    Der Weg ist das Ziel

    October 10 in Croatia

    Unser Weg führte uns heute über Bosnien-Herzegowina nach Dubrovnik. Schon die Fahrt dort hin ist wunderschön. Die meiste Zeit geht es an der Küste entlang, die immer felsiger wird, je weiter man nach Süden kommt. Irgendwann muss man durch das Gebirge und kommt an hübschen Seen vorbei.

    An der Grenze BiH ging es fix. Unsere Reiseleiterin meinte, das sei immer verschieden, aber meist würden Europäer nicht überprüft.

    Es gab einen kurzen Stop in Neum für die Raucher, Alkoholiker und Blasenschwachen, dann ging's weiter, wieder über die Grenze nach Kroatien.

    Dieses Stückchen „Zugang zum Meer“ hatte vor ein paar Hundert Jahren Dubrovnik an das Osmanische Reich abgetreten und im Gegenzug Schutz vor den Italienern erhalten. Und nun haben sie den Salat, meinte Maria, unsere kroatische Begleitung. Von Nord- nach Südkroatien und umgekehrt muss man immer über Bosnien-Herzegowina.

    Die Fahrt nach Dubrovnik dauert ca. 2,5 Stunden, vergeht aber wie im Flug, weil man ständig was zu gucken hat.

    In Dubrovnik dann der Kulturschock. Menschen! Menschen in rauhen Mengen. Zwei Kreuzfahrtschiffe lagen im Hafen und dann noch die ganzen Busse. Und alle strömten in die Altstadt.

    Wir wurden an Marina, kroatische langbeinige Blondine, die sprach wie Michael Mittermeier übergeben (sie hat lange in München gelebt) und strömten mit.

    Zuerst ging es in das Augustinerkloster mit der ältesten Apotheke Europas, die immer noch in Betrieb ist. Schon im Säulengang roch es intensiv nach ätherischen Ölen. Hier wird eine Rosencreme gefertigt, für die Asiaten meilenweit fliegen.

    Wir sind dann auch noch auf die Stadtmauer und umrundeten die Altstadt zur Hälfte, dann suchten wir uns lieber ein schattiges Plätzchen.

    Man kann kaum glauben, dass hier in den engen Gassen Game of Thrones gedreht wurde. Zum Beispiel die Szene, als Cercei Lannister nackt ihren Weg der Schande gehen musste. HBO zahlte 5 Millionen Dollar, damit die Stadt für die Dreharbeiten gesperrt wurde.

    Es war ein schöner Tag in einer beeindruckenden Stadt mit viel Informationen über das Land und die Menschen hier.
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  • Day28

    Elafiti Islands, Dubrovnik

    July 4, 2017 in Croatia

    A cruise today to three islands off the coast of Dubrovnik - Koločep, Lopud and Sipan. All had beautiful beaches and historic remains. We spent most time at Lopud which had lovely restaurants and cafes all along the waterfront. We also got amazing views of Dubrovnik's Old Town from the boat. A taster for the next day's visit to the Old Town. Lunch was served on board - and drinks were provided. It was an enjoyable day.Read more

  • Day27

    Cavtat Croatia

    July 3, 2017 in Croatia

    We are now in Croatia staying at Cavtat, a town about 20km south of Dubrovnik on the Adriatic Coast. The town is surrounded by a very pretty harbour that’s bordered by beaches with a backdrop of high green hills, the setting is lovely. There is a wide walkway bordered by palm trees that runs parallel to the sea. The water is a deep blue with patches of green near the edges where the pine trees are reflected. In that beautiful harbour are fishing boats, charter boats, ferries and just a few yachts almost as big as cruiseliners! Alan and I braved the water this afternoon for a was freezing. Once Rozzie saw the looks on our blue faces she opted out! Sitting now on our balcony looking out over the harbour - so peaceful. Tomorrow we are cruising 3 islands off the coast of Dubrovnik and the following day we will explore Dubrovnik.Read more

  • Day29


    July 5, 2017 in Croatia

    Today we walked the wall of Old Town Dubrovnik - enjoyed every step - a little exaggeration, but it was a real pleasure to see and walk this city for the first time. You can't help but feel a sense of awe as you see the beauty of the old town. The white limestone streets, baroque buildings, the ancient city walls that protected its people for centuries, and the endless view of the Adriatic - certainly was worth the over-1000 steps to complete a circuit of this incredible city! We then strolled through the old town and had a delicious lunch at one of the many restaurants there. Caught the cable car up to top of mountain where we got a panoramic view of the walled city. Had to try some traditional Croation cake - twice!! Fabulous day. Tomorrow we pick up our hite car and hit the road to discover more of Croatia.Read more

  • Day18

    Old Dubrovnik

    July 5, 2017 in Croatia

    Walked the fortified wall around Dubrovnik old town.. this included over 2,000 steps to complete the circuit but great views. Then travelled up to the top of the mountain in the cable car and again amazing views. Looking down from the top you get the full effect of the city wall. Afternoon cuppa at the top, sorry only have a photo of the empty plate! Last night in Cavtat before we pick up our hire car and drive north.Read more

  • Day38

    Up and down through Croatia

    October 3, 2016 in Croatia

    Deutsche Version auf

    Yesterday a month ago I started in Munich. It doesn't seem so long ago, because the days on the bike go around really fast. I was hoping the time is ticking more slowly during my trip, but in things that you do like, the pointer rotates faster.

    After a short break in Trieste / Italy, my route led through Slovenia for a day, then on the Croatian Coast to the border to Montenegro. The route along the coast had properly called grains. It went uphill every day at least for 1000 meters. Up - down, up - down. But at any time I had a wonderful sea view.

    After a two-day break in the Paklenica National Park, I drove a stage within the country. No Tourism at all which was an interesting change.

    Mostly at 5 p.m I kept an eye out for a suitable tent site. Previously, I always had the right nose and had sensational camp spots.

    Shortly before the border to Montenegro, I could set up my tent at Markos place. I contacted him over, a platform for cyclist, who fellow travelers give a place to sleep - for free. He lives in the mountains with a idyllic sea view. Situated on a plateau I could put up my tent. A Swiss couple has lived there for two months and building a hut. So who wants to lead a dropout-life is that an interesting place. At the point I'm not there yet :).

    Still, I just enjoy the feeling of freedom: Not having much and to pitch up the tent at amazing places.

    Now I am heading towards Albania.

    Ride on.

    PS. Unfortunately, my laptop stopped working. Therefore first have to serve the cell phone photos. Hopefully I get it running again :(.
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  • Day144

    Bosnia Herzegovina

    November 17, 2016 in Croatia

    Bosnia Herzegovina is excluded from the list of countries our van insurance allows us to drive in but with the border so tantalisingly close we didn't see the harm in driving up to it and walking across!

    The campsite manager of a few nights ago had shared his thoughts on Bosnia Herzegovina. His home town was in North East Croatia and to get there he could either drive 400km through Bosnia Herzegovina or 800km within Croatia. He had decided he would rather undertake the longer journey than take the 'shortcut'. His thoughts were that Bosnia Herzegovina was really two countries, the predominantly muslim Bosnia and the mainly catholic Herzegovina. Whilst he had no problem with the Herzogovenians, he had felt extremely uncomfortable when in Bosnian areas, as if he was being watched. He said the muslim faith was very hard line there and that about 300 ISIL fighters had returned to Bosnia from Syria. We don't know how much of this was fact and how much was chinese whispers, nor do we know how much his experience was shaped by his preconceptions. However we found it very interesting to listen to his perspective. The creation of national borders has too often been done by removed politicians seeking an advantage, or as a compromise in the face of a feared situation. The interests of groups of people on the ground have often played only a small part and whilst it is almost impossible to please everyone, there are obvious tensions between groups with different histories, cultures and beliefs.

    The road in the sat nav seemed to end at the border but as we weren't wanting to go further, that didn't matter to us. We didn't see a single other vehicle as the route took us up higher into the hills. The further it got, the further the vegetation spilled over onto the concrete. Cow pats splattered the road and Vicky had only just told Will not to be surprised if we came face to face with a herd of cows, than we turned the corner and there was a cow, glancing with a bamboozled expression between us and the other 3 further up the hill. Rocks littered our path, some of them sizeable.

    We got to a point 1.3km away from the border where bushes closed in and the concrete ended. The track beyond was stoney so we decided to park the van up (there was no room to turn it round) and continue on foot. It was only as we were setting off we saw that the gravel track was actually a 'repair' where it looked like the road had been washed away. Driving on, we found there were several patches like this but we took it slowly and kept our fingers crossed that the tyres would hold out.

    The border was marked by a small sign saying 'state border' in Croatian. It didn't look as if it wanted pedestrians to continue along the path so we took some photos, reversed back to a point that was just wide enough to shuffle the van round and headed towards our second border of the day -Montenegro!
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  • Day144


    November 17, 2016 in Croatia

    Dodging dogs in the road and holding our breath as we drove under low hanging telephone wires we drew closer to Montenegro. We know nothing about the country itself but it is another place we aren't insured to drive so today's breif visit is likely to be the only time we spend there.

    Parking up at a litter strewn patch of concrete just before the border controls, we grabbed our passports and struck out on foot towards what would be the third country of the day. There was a group of uniformed officials and one stayed around when he saw us approaching. Luckily he spoke English, although we could see him questioning his understanding of the language when we handed over the passports and explained what we wanted to do. "You want to walk to Montenegro?" he asked. We nodded eagerly and he let us through. About 500m further on there was a 'Welcome to Montenegro' sign with a view of a valley winding down to the sea beyond which we thought as good a point to turn back at as any.

    The officials were ready for us on our return. One diligently checked our passports asking with mock seriousness that didn't quite come over in translation "So, where are you going?" We started to answer until he cut in with a grin "And where have you been?". We guess they don't get many British people crossing the border on foot!
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Dubrovačko-Neretvanska Županija, Dubrovacko-Neretvanska Zupanija, Dubrovnik - Neretva, Dubrovnik-Neretva, Raguseo-Narentana, 두브로브니크네레트바 주

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