Nun sitzen wir noch hier in trinken cocktails und genießen bei life Musik den Abend 😊 Schön ist es hier.
Unser Weg führte uns heute über Bosnien-Herzegowina nach Dubrovnik. Schon die Fahrt dort hin ist wunderschön. Die meiste Zeit geht es an der Küste entlang, die immer felsiger wird, je weiter man nach Süden kommt. Irgendwann muss man durch das Gebirge und kommt an hübschen Seen vorbei.
An der Grenze BiH ging es fix. Unsere Reiseleiterin meinte, das sei immer verschieden, aber meist würden Europäer nicht überprüft.
Es gab einen kurzen Stop in Neum für die Raucher, Alkoholiker und Blasenschwachen, dann ging's weiter, wieder über die Grenze nach Kroatien.
Dieses Stückchen „Zugang zum Meer“ hatte vor ein paar Hundert Jahren Dubrovnik an das Osmanische Reich abgetreten und im Gegenzug Schutz vor den Italienern erhalten. Und nun haben sie den Salat, meinte Maria, unsere kroatische Begleitung. Von Nord- nach Südkroatien und umgekehrt muss man immer über Bosnien-Herzegowina.
Die Fahrt nach Dubrovnik dauert ca. 2,5 Stunden, vergeht aber wie im Flug, weil man ständig was zu gucken hat.
In Dubrovnik dann der Kulturschock. Menschen! Menschen in rauhen Mengen. Zwei Kreuzfahrtschiffe lagen im Hafen und dann noch die ganzen Busse. Und alle strömten in die Altstadt.
Wir wurden an Marina, kroatische langbeinige Blondine, die sprach wie Michael Mittermeier übergeben (sie hat lange in München gelebt) und strömten mit.
Zuerst ging es in das Augustinerkloster mit der ältesten Apotheke Europas, die immer noch in Betrieb ist. Schon im Säulengang roch es intensiv nach ätherischen Ölen. Hier wird eine Rosencreme gefertigt, für die Asiaten meilenweit fliegen.
Wir sind dann auch noch auf die Stadtmauer und umrundeten die Altstadt zur Hälfte, dann suchten wir uns lieber ein schattiges Plätzchen.
Man kann kaum glauben, dass hier in den engen Gassen Game of Thrones gedreht wurde. Zum Beispiel die Szene, als Cercei Lannister nackt ihren Weg der Schande gehen musste. HBO zahlte 5 Millionen Dollar, damit die Stadt für die Dreharbeiten gesperrt wurde.
Es war ein schöner Tag in einer beeindruckenden Stadt mit viel Informationen über das Land und die Menschen hier.Read more
Our final project before heading back up north towards Austria, was to visit Dubrovnik Winter Festival on its opening night. We'd been advised by the campsite owner to travel the 10km in by bus to avoid parking difficulties. We haven't used public transport much but thought we'd give it a go. We got the right bus (even though it displayed a different number to the one on the timetable) and got off just after the closest stop to the Old Town. We failed to find a stop to return from, but set off down the hill on the 2km walk to the festival. We worked out on the way that there were shuttle buses within the Dubrovnik area that linked to longer distance bus routes (one of which we'd used to get there).
It was about half past 3 when we reached the festival and the imposing stone fortress walls of Dubrovnik Old Town. Alongside the usual Christmas decorations there were garlands made out of bay leaves arched over entrance ways and wound around stone pillars. Olive and orange trees stood in large hessian wrapped pots with a carved wooden decoration hanging from their base. Oh, and it was warm - 18°C warm! White wooden huts lined the main street selling snacks, hand painted baubles and other trinkets.
While it was still light we took in the beautifully ornate stonework on the churches, halls and towers. The city oozed history and grandeur and while the crowds assembled in the main street grew, we seemed to be the only ones winding our way through backstreets soaking in the city's charms, watched only by the numerous cats!
Returning to the main square we were just in time to see a newly wedded couple emerging from the church to a corridor of friends and family holding sparklers. They stood for a while then threw brightly wrapped sweets into the crowd from a wicker basket.
Dusk fell as we sipped tea and coffee at a table in a side street. The Christmas lights had been turned on while we were there and re-emerging to their festive glow brought forth 'oohs' and 'ahhs'. Dubrovnik had pushed the boat out with very tastefull decorations, many of which made use of and enhanced existing grand buildings.
Food was next on the agenda and due to the lack of traditional Croatian cuisine at the wooden huts, we chose hotdogs, only discovering after we'd ordered that it was an 'Irish Pub' stall - they get everywhere!
Leaving in plenty of time, we waited for a shuttle bus to take us to the main bus station. The stand we waited at said the bus we needed stopped there, but after watching another that was supposed to stop there, pick up passengers over the road then fly by, we switched over and hopped on the one we needed. The driver waved us past when we tried to pay. We waited patiently for the bus to pull into the main bus station, but became increasingly worried as it drove further and further away from Dubrovnik. In a panic Will asked the driver, who told us we'd missed the stop but if we got off now and hurried, there was another bus coming in the opposite direction that would take us back. We legged it over and down the road with the driver shouting "Quick! Go left!" There were no street lights as we ran along the dark country pavement but we could hear voices ahead and managed to get to the stop just in time. It turned out the shuttle buses were free, perhaps to encourage people to the festival. We kept a vigilant eye out for the bus station that Vicky thought she'd seen on the way out. It was 3 minutes until our next bus was due, when we got off outside the station, found our way in and on to the bus bearing the same number that had brought us in. This time we asked the driver to tell us when we got to our destination!Read more
We arrived yesterday and went out for a dinner of local specialties, capon beef and fish.
This morning was a walk of the old city walls. Beautiful. And very unexpected for me. Breakfast at city walls was a great start.
So moved to otherside of town and have a room with a view and a garden to sit in. Nice people, only 3 rooms but only 3 blocks from bus and sea. Too bad it is all stairs to bus but will figure that out on Tuesday when i head back to Split.
Today I went grocery shopping at farmers market and bakery. I arranged to go on a 3 island kayaking adventure tomorrow. So early night
Took bus into old town, walked all over and the place. Then hiked up to gondola for panoramic overlook. Great day since a bit cooler and finally a breeze. Walked back down to old town for lunch of risotto with beets, apple and walnuts very nice. Back on bus to my part of town bought a snack and beer for dinner. Will try island of Milje national park if weather holds for tomorrow
Pictures are firstvthe climb and crowds to getvto top of city walls, every alley is used for restaurants , a crazy candy store, play ground in the dry moat, views from top of gondola.Read more
Die Perle an der Adiria. Ja die Stadt ist wunderschön, hat ihren Charme und auch für Gastronomen was zu bieten.
Leider weis das die ganze Welt. Es ist so überfüllt von Touristen, Touristenfallen und dämlichen Shops. 1000 Dinge die die Welt nicht braucht.
P.S. Parkiere auserhalb beim neuen Hafen und nimm den Bus.😉
A.K.A Kings Landing for all you Game of Thrones fans out there! For those of you who aren't, Dubrovnik doubles as this fictional city for some of the filming of the series.
We are actually staying in Mlini, which is a resort just south of Dubrovnik, as Dubrovnik would have bust the budget! The reason for coming here was of course to visit Dubrovnik itself but yesterday we were pretty exhausted after the ferry ride that was a journey in itself.
It involved complete and utter confusion. From the moment we boarded - about 3 hours before the ferry left - until getting through passport control in Croatia we, and seemingly everyone else including the staff, had no idea what was going on. Firstly our sat-nav took us to completely the wrong place for the port in Bari. When we found it and 'checked in' as we should we were just told to wait in a big carpark where people were still trying to sell us selfie sticks... Chaos at the gate continued into the car deck so we were relieved to arrive up to our cabin. 2 tiny bunk beds - one broken - and a wash basin. The facilities on the ship do not appear to have been changed from the 1970's and the CD selection since the 1990's. The crossing itself was fine and in the morning the chaos continued with a 45 minute wait to be allowed off the ferry and a further 1 hour 45 to get through passport control.
I am learning a very important lesson this trip. No-one queues like we British but I think they could do with learning ;)
Back to Croatia. Mlini is a nice quiet resort. We are staying about 150 steps up from the beach area but this is getting off lightly compared to some of the places. Yesterday we swam in the sea and chilled and had a beer by the water.
Today we headed into Dubrovnik by boat. The majority of our time was spent in the Old City where it is surrounded by walls, a bit like St Malo. Being Game of Thrones fans ourselves we booked into a walking tour to hear about the filming of the show and the history of Dubrovnik.
It really is a great looking city. Thronging with tourists again (us included!) and most of the Old City is just restaurant, souvenirs, restaurants, souvenirs and so on. Our landlady - who I would estimate to be in her 60s - did say its not like it used to be when she was younger. The tour was interesting and included a visit to the Fort Lovrjenac whose entrance has an inscription in Latin reading “Freedom is not to be sold, even for all the fortunes of the world”. Which is particularly interesting as for 450 years Dubrovnik paid the Ottoman Empire a fortune every year to remain independent... At the end of the tour we got to sit on a replica of the Iron Throne so unlike most of the characters in the show, we had a happy ending.
Tomorrow we move north to a place called Kastel Luscik near Split for four days and hope to finally do some washing!!Read more
You might also know this place by the following names:
Grad Dubrovnik, Ragusa, دوبروفنيك, Горад Дуброўнік, Дубровник, دوبرۆڤنیک, Dubrovník, Ντουμπρόβνικ, دوبروونیک, דוברובניק, ドゥブロヴニク, დუბროვნიკი, 두브로브니크, Ragusium, Ragüsa, Dubrovnikas, Dubrovnika, दुब्रोव्हनिक, Dubrownik, Dubrovniku, Raguxa, ראגוזא, 杜布羅夫尼克