Frankrike
Saint-Pé-de-Bigorre

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  • Dag 23–24

    Lourdes

    28 september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Eigentlich stand Lourdes nicht auf unserem Streckenplan. Doch wenn bereits so nahe sind, warum nicht?

    Wir nutzen das Schönwetter-Fenster und fahren samstags nach Lourdes, auf den freundlichen und sympatischen Camping La Forêt de Lourdes. Endlich wieder mal ne Dusche sowie eine praktische Entsorgungsmöglichkeit inklusive Frischwasser. Dann geht's zu Fuss entlang des Gave (Fluss) in den "heiligen Bereich". Wir treffen uns bei der Grotte mit Lucie und Alicia. Die beiden Schwestern aus dem nahegelegenen Tarbes haben wir im November 2023 in der Olivenernte auf dem Peloponnes (GR) bei Stavroula kennengelernt. Beide haben den Sommer über am Bahnhof Lourdes gearbeitet - so liegt dieser Treffpunkt auf der Hand.

    Wir schlendern also mit kundiger Führung durch Lourdes und geniessen den spontanen Austausch ungemein. Überrascht, dass wir die beiden noch auf etwas aufmerksam machen konnten, das sie selbst noch nicht gekannt hatten: die riesengrosse unterirdische Hallenkirche (Basilique Saint Pie X), ganz aus Beton und ziemlich gewöhnungsbedürftig.

    Anderntags gings nach Pau, wo wir uns auf dem Parkplatz des "Parc des Eaux-vives" mit Benoît&Delphine und Tochter Lisa trafen. Mit den Dreien hatte ich im Februar 2023 bei Hafid in Marokko meinen 65. Geburtstag gefeiert. Die nette zufällige Reisebekanntschaft hat überdauert; schön, dass unsere Wege sich hier wieder überschneiden.

    Anschließend weiter nach Monein zu unserem Workaway-Einsatzort. Herzlich das Wiedersehen mit Mylène&Jean-Paul, mit François&Danielle, mit Friederike aus Jena/DL. Und überraschend das Zusammentreffen mit Reina&Dieter aus Luzern, die ebenfalls zur Traubenernte angereist sind. Der einzige Wermutstropfen: wir erfahren sogleich, dass der Beginn der Vendanges nochmals um eine Woche verschoben werden muss. Die Trauben sind schlicht noch nicht reif genug. Im Originalton von Jean-Paul: "der April war verregnet, der Mai verschifft, der Juni zu kalt, der Juli eine Katastrophe und der August ein Desaster".

    Das führte dazu, dass er uns fünf WorkawayerInnen am ersten Tag gleich mal auf den ersten "Betriebsausflug" geschickt hat: Navarrenx, Sauveterre, Saliés-de-Béarn. 😉😜🍀🌞
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  • Dag 38

    🎂 B-Day Sunrise in Lourdes ✝️🇫🇷

    25 september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    At 7:00 am, we began our peaceful walk through the quiet streets of Lourdes, tracing the steps once taken by Bernadette (read about later). The early hour gave the town a much more peaceful atmosphere than our arrival yesterday, with only the soft sounds of our footsteps and the gentle sound of the Ousse River. As we approached the Basilica of Lourdes, the sky began to glow with the first light of the sunrise, casting a pink hue over the sacred site. The stillness of the morning was broken only by the faint echoes of hymns and the familiar monotonous sound of a catholic mass, as we reached the Basilica just in time to witness the closing moments of the morning mass. The sight of the faithful in prayer, coupled with the soft glow of dawn, created a ritualistic cultish feeling. We followed the crowd to the spigots of healing water and partook in touching the water and Lisa even drank a bit. We walked up the steps to get a better view of the basilica, and as the sun was rising I opened my birthday card from Sebastian I had been carrying the whole trip. Lisa made me a wonderful omelette breakfast for my birthday, and then we hit the road quite late at about noon to head to our next Warmshower. It was a beautiful ride from Lourdes to Bagnères-de-Bigorre, a scenic journey through the rolling foothills of the Pyrenees. The quiet countryside roads were lined with lush greenery, the soft hum of nature accompanying us as we pedaled along, feeling the crisp mountain air against our skin. As we neared Bagnères-de-Bigorre, the landscape opened up, revealing the charming town nestled in the valley with the mountains standing proudly in the distance. In Bagnères-de-Bigorre, we stopped for a well-deserved break, heading to the town's Central Park for a peaceful picnic. Surrounded by the vibrant trees and locals enjoying the sunny afternoon, we found a quiet bench in the sun and enjoyed a simple meal, savoring fresh bread, cheese, and humus. The park was a perfect place to rest, the calmness of the surroundings restoring our energy for the next leg of the journey. After lunch, we mounted our bikes again and headed toward Col de Palomières, a scenic mountain pass. The climb was challenging (not a challenging as others on this trip), but the stunning views of the Pyrenean peaks made every pedal stroke worth it. Reaching the col was rewarding , and we were greeted by Aude, our Warmshowers host, at 5:30 as she met us on her cycle ride commuting home from work. She had a warm smile and an easygoing energy that made us instantly feel at ease. Together with Aude, we rode through the picturesque roads that wound through the countryside, en route to Esparros. The peaceful beauty of the route took our breath away, with rolling hills, expansive meadows, and the occasional glimpse of distant mountain ranges. It was nice to have Aude as our tour guide.
    When we finally arrived at Kevin and Aude’s amazing cottage, we were welcomed by Kevin and his smile was equally as welcoming as Aude’s. The cozy cottage had stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, framed by a beautiful garden bursting with flowers. Chickens roamed in their pen, adding a rustic charm to the setting, and the garden overflowed with fresh herbs and vegetables. The atmosphere was serene and relaxing, offering the perfect end to our day’s adventure. As the evening set in, we felt grateful to have found this picturesque sanctuary after a day of cycling through such stunning landscapes. Aude made an improvisational plum pie for dessert to celebrate my birthday. We also ate bread with trite fish and herbs, cheeses (of course), and “tortilla” (we would call frittata.)It was a super special evening and again I can’t tell how special these Warmshower experiences are. With drinks, stories, good food, and Kevin coming back from badminton class at 10:30, before we realized it was after midnight when we headed to bed. The riding today was some of the prettiest riding we have done! Video link: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAYqwioMbiQ/?igs…
    **********************************
    This next part is from ChatGPt (you may want to skip)
    **Saint Bernadette of Lourdes**
    Saint Bernadette Soubirous was born in 1844 in Lourdes, France, to a humble and devout Catholic family. Her life changed in 1858 when, at the age of 14, she experienced a series of 18 apparitions of the Virgin Mary at the Grotto of Massabielle. During these apparitions, Bernadette described seeing a beautiful lady in white, who later identified herself as the "Immaculate Conception." Despite initial skepticism from local authorities and even the Church, Bernadette’s unwavering account of the visions drew significant attention.

    In one of these visions, Mary instructed Bernadette to dig into the ground, revealing a spring. This spring, still flowing today, became a source of healing for many, and pilgrims soon began flocking to Lourdes to visit the Grotto and seek its miraculous waters. Though Bernadette lived the rest of her life in relative seclusion as a nun, she was canonized in 1933 for her holiness and humility. Today, Saint Bernadette remains a symbol of faith, simplicity, and the power of divine grace.

    **The History of Lourdes**
    Before Bernadette’s visions, Lourdes was a small, unremarkable town nestled at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains. The apparitions of 1858 transformed Lourdes into one of the world’s most important pilgrimage sites. Pilgrims began traveling to Lourdes to visit the Grotto where the Virgin Mary appeared and to bathe in the spring’s healing waters, which many believe have miraculous properties.

    The Catholic Church recognized the apparitions in 1862, and Lourdes quickly developed into a center of devotion and healing. Numerous cures and recoveries attributed to the waters of Lourdes have been documented over the years, though the Church requires thorough investigation before declaring them miracles. Today, Lourdes welcomes millions of visitors annually from all over the world, making it one of the most significant destinations for spiritual and physical healing.

    **The Basilica of Lourdes**
    The Basilica of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, often simply called the Basilica of Lourdes, is an iconic symbol of the city’s spiritual significance. Built between 1866 and 1871, this grand neo-Gothic basilica rises dramatically above the Grotto where Bernadette had her visions. It’s sometimes referred to as the "Upper Basilica" because it sits atop the rock face overlooking the Grotto of Massabielle.

    The basilica is part of a larger sanctuary complex that also includes the Rosary Basilica (completed in 1901) and the underground Basilica of St. Pius X (built in 1958 to accommodate the growing number of pilgrims). Together, these structures form a powerful spiritual hub, reflecting the devotion that surrounds Lourdes.

    The **Grotto of Massabielle** beneath the Basilica remains the focal point of pilgrimages, with thousands of visitors coming to light candles, pray, and touch the sacred rock where Bernadette saw the Virgin Mary. Additionally, the nearby **Lourdes Baths**, fed by the spring uncovered by Bernadette, offer a unique opportunity for pilgrims seeking healing or spiritual renewal. Every year, Lourdes hosts numerous religious processions, including candlelit vigils, bringing together people from all walks of life in a powerful expression of faith and hope.

    Lourdes continues to inspire millions worldwide, offering a place of refuge, healing, and profound spiritual encounters.
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  • Dag 37

    ✝️🙏🇫🇷 Lourdes🇫🇷🙏✝️

    24 september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    5:17 / 61 miles / 4,321 ft. Another great day cycling in southern France, which feels less touristy and more sparsely populated. The roads have fewer cars, and the landscape resembles Iowa, with its rolling hills and farmland. We’ve encountered a peculiar bug hatching, similar to mayflies hatches, and it seems like we’ve been riding through millions of them. When they get tangled in our hair or down our shirts, it’s hard to tell if they’re biting us, but we haven’t felt any itchiness. We stopped in a small village around noon as the church bells rang and the Tuesday market was concluding. We bought some olives for dinner, and Lisa picked up a new pair of sunglasses from a cycling vendor. Today marked our first day without rain while riding, but later, as we walked back from getting takeout pizza in Lourdes, it started to rain, making it our 13th consecutive day with rain. Although we cannot pronounce Lourdes to the satisfaction of the French, it is one place that everyone recognizes the name once they figure out what we’re talking about. Lourdes, in southwestern France, is known for its Christian religious significance and natural beauty. It attracts millions of visitors annually, especially to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes, a major pilgrimage site. The city is set against the backdrop of the picturesque Pyrenees mountains. To celebrate finally reaching it here we decided on takeout pizza, one of the more holy things that I know. 🙂 Two days ago I forgot to mention that I heard a scream from Lisa as she was riding behind me on the moist pavement. I couldn’t figure out what was going on, but she was holding up her hand and yelling, yuck, and Ugh, etc. I wasn’t sure if she was injured or what the problem was but we were on a pretty fast descent. I got my bike stopped and she stopped also. I guess a giant slug flew off of my wheel and hit her in the face. She then wiped it off and it was stuck on her hand. I’m sure you’ll hear more about the story, but in summary she says, “SO GROSS!”🤢 Video of the market: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAT62CXuXZr/?igs…Läs mer

  • Dag 13

    Col du Prat du Rey

    15 september 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Heute geht's knapp 500m höher auf einen Pass in 1188m Höhe. Über matschige Waldwege und rutschige Steine führt der Weg wiedermal mitten auf eine sonnige Kuhweide.
    Einmal haben wir hier erlebt, dass eine Kuh einen Wanderer einfach umgeschubst hat, deshalb halten wir lieber Abstand.
    Der Rückweg verläuft über einen sonnenbeschienen Hang voller bunter Wildblumen - und noch ein paar Kühen.

    Jetzt fühlen wir uns eigentlich wieder fit für die höheren Gipfel und müssen leider wieder heim fahren.

    Wir hoffen, dass sich zu Hause das Hochwasser an die Prognosen von max 7m Elbe Pegel hält, dann bleibt das Heim wenigstens trocken.
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  • Dag 8–9

    Tagesziel: Bénéjacq

    19 juni 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Da wir heute genug gefahren sind, suchen wir auf Park4Night einen Platz für die Nacht in der Nähe und landen 20 km weiter in Bénéjacq auf einem kostenlosen Stellplatz hinter dem Rathaus, recht nett an einem kleinen Bach gelegen.

    Jetzt erstmal Abendveschper, dann planen wir mal, was wir die nächsten Tage so machen, da das Wetter in Nordspanien nicht soooo toll werden soll.

    Später machen wir noch einen kleinen Spaziergang durch den Ort.
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  • Dag 8

    Erleuchtung in Lourdes

    19 juni 2024, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Wir fahren über Land weiter in Richtung Lourdes, wo wir gegen 16 Uhr ankommen.

    Kurz vor Ankunft beginnt der Himmel etwas zu weinen, was uns aber nicht davon abhält, die heiligen Stätten zu erklimmen (ehrlich, ich hatte Lourdes wesentlich flacher in Erinnerung).

    Kirche, Kirche, Kirche, Krypta, Grotte.

    Faszinierend ist die komplett unterirdischen, brutalistisch anmutende Kathedrale de Saint Pie X. Hier sollen bis zu 20000 Personen Platz finden, komplett unterirdisch.

    Außer Protokoll: Praktisch ist, wenn das Ganze Mal den Bach runter geht, kann man das Ding ohne große Umbauten als Wasserreservoir nutzen...

    Die Wallfahrtsstätte an sich ist für Gläubige wirklich faszinierend, trotz des Regens ist unglaublich viel los und an jeder Ecke wird gesungen, gekniet und gebetet.

    Wir singen uns dann nach kurzer Erleuchtung zurück zu unserem Parkplatz und legen uns erstmal trocken.

    Amen.
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  • Dag 3–5

    Lourdes

    13 april 2024, Frankrike ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    Saturday and Sunday in Lourdes Monday we prepare to start the Camino. We went to Mass at the Grotto. The Candlelight vigil at the Cathedral was pretty impressive. There seemed to be at least a thousand people in the procession of light, all carrying candles.Läs mer

  • Dag 24

    Day 41 Lourdes 765 km

    1 november 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    It felt like I was walking in Nanaimo today as the temperature was 8 C and it was raining. I wore every piece of my merino wool clothing and down vest to keep warm.

    I found a great grocery store and bought some salads and fruit for lunch.

    I visited a church however I cannot recall its name. It had a lot of stained glass windows. The front windows facing the altar were very unique. There were also paintings of each station of the cross. I have never seen anything like it.

    I lit a candle for Les♥️ The candle table was under the picture of Bernadette.

    I then made my way to the Grotto to collect my Holy water and touch the stone in the cave.
    It wasn't too crowded meaning there was not a long line to stand waiting. Afterwards I attended what I thought was an outdoor Mass but was a lineup to do the three things that Bernadette was led to de by Mary:
    Wash your hands with the Holy water
    Wash your face
    And finally drink the water.
    I was allowed to stay for awhile afterwards. Each person was done individually and blessed🙏

    I then went to where there are hundreds of lit candles for those to be remembered. I will post the picture of the prayer that went with it. I lit a candle for Les ♥️

    The cutest thing I heard was a child trying to blow out a candle as if it were on a cake 😃

    I walked up to the crypt at the top of the cathedral. The chapel was beautiful.

    Afterwards I walked up the side of the hill to see the stations of the Cross.

    The nicest part of Lourdes Cathedral grounds is that it is a very large property. The added size gives rise to a park like feel to it. It also helps with the throngs of people they can be spread out quite easily.

    I gave up trying to get a coffee from a bar here ( many are closed for the end of the season) so walked to the train station. It was packed with people!!!

    I was so looking forward to a hot bath/shower tonight except all the tub has is a hand held shower head you have to hold and fill the tub with. There is not a wall attachment to have a shower😓 But the biggest issue is no plug for the tub....and warm water.....not hot😭
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  • Dag 21

    In den Untergrund und an die Küste

    18 oktober 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Früh am Morgen, der Wecker ging um 7:00 ging es zur „Grottes de Bétherram“. Einer Tropfsteinhöhle in der Nähe von Lourdes; was sollen wir sagen - Grandios!!
    Per geführte Tour (knapp 1.5h - incl. Böttchen und Bahnfahrt) geht es durch die Unterwelt und man kommt aus dem Staunen nicht heraus.
    Allerdings sollte man möglichst früh vor Ort sein, andernfalls könnte es eng werden ( angesichts der Warteschleifenabtrennung im Eingangsbereich).
    Wie von Wetter.Com vorhergesagt Regnete es als wir wieder über Tage waren und so zahlte sich die Tourplanung aus nicht ins Landesinnere, sondern wieder an die Küste zu fahren - rauf ins Medoc, oberhalb von Bordeaux.
    In Montavilet-les-Bsins fanden wir ein Windgeschützes Plätzchen (fast) am Strand und ließen uns den Wind um die Ohren wehen bevor, gestärkt mit Moules & Frittes, der Tag zu Ende ging.
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  • Dag 3

    Lourdes - Spiritual preparation

    15 april 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After months of physical and mental preparation, today was a day of Spiritual Preparation while discovering Lourdes.
    At first, the scale of touristy memorabilia shops made me think it was going to be a tick box process.
    But once in the Sanctuary it was Peaceful, prayerful, incredibly welcoming and a Blessing to witness. The Lourdes sanctuary precinct exists because of the 18 Apparitions of our Lady to St Bernadette. The message of Lourdes is “through Mary to Jesus”.
    Our highlight was the water gesture ceremony, a private process led by a Sister determined to ensure our experience was beautiful, moving and meaningful. The water gesture is a spiritual cleansing / healing of water, from the same Spring St Bernadette was told to wash in. We attended a Gregorian Chant Mass, spent some time at the grotto, lit a candle for all those we are holding in our prayers, a wonderful walking tour, walking in the steps of St Bernadette, by one of the Sisters, who challenged us to question ourselves and reflect. We attended the Procession of the Holy Eucharist in the underground Basilica that can accommodate 20,000 people! We ended our day with the most beautiful candlelight procession, attended by 1000s, all reciting, in unity, the rosary in their own language. I had my Mum’s rosary with me and I held her in my prayers.
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