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Camino Portuguese

September - October 2023
  • Steps with Lynne
Soon I’ll be off to start my second Camino. Read more
  • Steps with Lynne

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  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese

    Getting Ready

    September 2, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Time for another Camino!

    In 2021, I walked the Camino Frances about 800 km/500 miles, from St Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.

    On Tuesday, September 5, I’ll be leaving for Lisbon, Portugal. On Saturday, September 9, I will begin walking the Camino Portuguese, from Lisbon to Santiago. Approximately 640 km/400 miles.

    The attached map shows four main routes. I will follow:
    = Leaving Lisbon on the Red/Camino Central all the way to Porto
    = Leaving Porto will take the Blue/Senda Litoral (along the coast) for 1.5 days
    = 10km/6.2 miles after Labruge, I will cut inland and join the Red/Central at Sao Pedro de Rates.
    = Cross the border into Spain at Tui.
    = Stay on Red/Central all the way to Pontevedra
    = At Pontevedra switch to the Purple/Variante Espiritual
    = At Padron back on the Red/Central into Santiago de Compostela, Spain

    So about 85% of the walk will be in Portugal. I’ve never been to Portugal, so am excited to experience the culture and people. Plus meeting other pilgrims!

    I am planning to post on most days, so if you choose, go on the journey with me. Keep me in your thoughts for a safe & healthy pilgrimage.

    Bom Caminho/ Buen Camino

    Note: you do NOT have to register (get an account) to view my posts. You will not be able to make comments. If you are on Facebook, I’ll be posting same narrative, but more photos. Search for Lynne Nitschke Newark    Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    Called Green wine tastes like Processo
    Rooftops1Cobblestone design making it look like waves3Azulejo tile on outside of buildingFunicular Gloria. Rode up the hillA little cafe i ate st twice!So many hills, steps, cobblestones1More Azulejo tileTrying the local Ginjinha a cherry liqueur2The famous pastry shop that makes pastel de belem. A custard filled pastry.

    Being a Tourist in Lisboa

    September 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Hola from Lisboa! Before I start walking the Caminho Portuguese, I’ve been playing tourist. What a busy city. Locals are very friendly. Getting around I’ve mainly relied on my two feet, but have used the metro/buses, which is very easy to use. A lot of hills. All sidewalks are cobblestone, plus most of the older streets. Have not seen anyone wearing high heels!

    Instead of going into all that I’ve seen I’ll touch on highlights. Checkout the Sandemans New Europe www.newEuropetours.eu they have free walking tours not only in Lisbon. The guide Bruno was excellent. You should put seeing a Fado show on your list. I did a simple ‘Get Your Guide’, 50 minute program with two singers & 2 guitarists. Simple but excellent.

    Not sure how many photos I’ve taken, but those I’ve attached have captions to give more info.

    Tomorrow, Saturday, I start walking. Thursday I did 10km/6.2 miles of the route, so I’m not starting out with a 32.7km day. Late morning I will take the metro to the point I stopped on Thursday.

    Enjoy & welcome to the journey. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    On funicular heading downhill
    1Street art made from recycled trashFirst Caminho marker i sawOld monasterySmall townStopped in Alpriate for a beerAnd lunchTownsfolk in the cafeGuess i will go Left!Boardwalk path

    Day 1 - Parque dos Nacoes to Verdelha de

    September 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Day 1 - Parque das Nacoes to Verdelha de Baxio. 24.1k/15m. Walking time 4:57.
    Steps 31,156. Calories 1166. Mike D know you want to know!

    My first official day of walking started outside of Lisbon, because I walked Lisbon to Parque das Nacoes on Thursday. It was very nice to cut off almost 10k.

    This morning, I headed out the door and it immediately started pouring rain, so went back in & waited about 15 minutes.

    One thing I know for sure - wet cobblestone is like ice! Instead of walking down the steep hill from my room took one last funicular Gloria ride. Then the metro to Parque.

    No rain. Partly cloudy. Sort of warm & sweaty, but when you have a 12# pack on your back you are working hard.

    Highlight of the day: ate lunch at the only cafe, in the very small town of Alpriate. It was the gathering place for all the locals. I snuck a photo!

    I did not see another pilgrim until leaving Alpriate (15k mark). Alex, from the Netherlands, just finished high school & is taking a gap year. We walked together for about 4K. Time/distance sure flies by when someone is doing it with you.

    Had quite a bit of dirt trail walking. One section was quite muddy. Otherwise good path conditions.

    Staying in a hostel with my own room & bathroom. A gentleman from Mexico arrived before me and he walked from Lisbon. Yikes! About 34km.

    Enjoy the journey. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    First sunrise for this Camino
    First path marker for the day1Some markers are unique1This dog was the most beautiful gorgeous I've ever seen1Statute of Laborers1Thing this is a train station. Azulejo tile1More path markers & a bit of the pathTrain station waiting to hitch a ride1Sitting in the church square with locals & pilgrims.2Cat peeking in my window. She was sitting on the roof next door

    Day 2 Verdelha to Azambuja

    September 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Day 2 - Verdelha to Azambuja. 10 September. Started 6:07 am. Stopped 2:45 pm. 30.5k/18.9mi. Walking time 6h7m. 40,866 steps. 1,427 calories.

    Great weather for walking. Clouds kept temperature down. Long day for walking. Took a route that was marked & then not marked, which ended up with me on the wrong side of the railroad tracks! Could not see a way around ‘legally’ & safe, so back tracked 3.5 km. The town was right there! So instead of 6k to where I would spend the night, with the backtracking, it was 13k. I was beat, so did the smart thing & took the train the last 6k.

    Seeing a few more pilgrims - 4 on the path & 5 in the town we were all sleeping. Didn’t get the chance to walk with anyone. Maybe tomorrow.

    That was my day! Enjoy the journey. Bom Caminho Photos have captions.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    First Camino path marker for the day
    1River/stream along the pathFog lifting across the tomato fields1Tomato field waiting to be harvested1Harvesting equipment2I love taking photos of old doors. This one has Azulejo tile2Valada laying on bench waiting for hostel to open.2Not a happy toe. Drained blister under nail. Antiseptic.1

    Day 3 Azambuja - Valada

    September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Day 3 - Azambuja to Valada. 11 September started @ 08:12 & stopped at about 11:45. 13k/8.1m. Walking time 2h32m. 16,642 steps. 581 calories.

    Before I share my day want to remember September 11, 2001. Those that died. Their families & friends. Unfortunately, it is a date many of us will remember - where we were & who we were with. The world changed on that day.

    My day started a bit later, because I had a short walking day. I needed one! And I didn’t go off the wrong direction!

    Before leaving Azambuja had a coffee and pastry. From the photos you will see it was sort of foggy & overcast. Great walking weather. The clouds cleared about an hour in.

    It was a day of walking among the tomato fields. Periodically there were some laying along the road. Yes, I did pick up a good one, rubbed off the dirt and ate it! Just like growing up rub off the dirt & enjoy.

    The hostel did not open until 2 pm, so I had some time to put my feet up & people watch.

    Photo captions give a bit more.

    Enjoy the journey! Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    3The huge Tejo River
    11Pano of the dike. It is huge1Meat bean soup with fresh bread & 1906 beerWalking on the dike1My next Vespa2Steps from the dike to the town streetFabric caricature of Lady of Fatima. Hostel named Dos Caminhos. Two Caminhos. Fatima & Portuguese1Santiago for Caminó Portuguese

    Additions to Day 3

    September 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Additions to day 3. After yesterday’s posting I went to find a place to eat and discovered a whole new landscape to the small town of Valada.

    There is a huge dike wall between the Tejo River and the town. The place I ate was right on the river.

    Enjoy more from Day 3 with photos & captions. Bom Caminho    Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    1
    2Sunrise over Tejo River1First path marker for the dayFlat country road2Santarem in the distance1My bed cubicle. Privacy curtain. My own light & electric plugChurch in town1Very old balcony1Mr cat was showing offI think ill be walking down there tomorrow2Scampi in garlic sauce

    Day 4 Valada to Santarem

    September 12, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Day 4 - Valada to Santarem. 12 September. Started at 07:33. Finished at 12:03. 20.2k/12.6m. Walking time 3h42m. 24,108 steps. 914 calories.

    As I was typing in the calories I realized the figure is based on my body weight. Wonder what it would be if I added 12# for the weight of my pack. Let’s face it carry around a 12# dumbbell for over 12 miles you use more energy.

    It was a very good day for walking. Weather was absolutely perfect. The toes were good. I think my body is beginning to adapt to my 12# pack.

    Got a great sunrise photo over the Tejo River. Many would find today’s path very boring. Not much to see. Landscape pretty much the same all day. But I like days like this - filled with farm fields and smells that take me back to North Dakota. Something about smelling fresh tilled dirt!

    Followed the dike for a long time and then cut through a vineyard. Having the high dike provided some great shade! Also, adding to today’s boring side - only one town. And that was 3k from the start, so too soon to stop. Had a 3+km hill at the end leading into Santarem. I love hills - going up. Saw two pilgrims on the trail. So those staying in the hostel did not catch up to me.

    Played tourist in Santarem. Had a good filling lunch/early supper. Staying in a modern , new hostel. Right now only two of us in a 6 bunk room.

    Okay, I know you all want to hear about my toes! Well did not have a restful sleep. They were not hurting, but my brain just had to find a solution to my toe dilemma. I believe I found it. Since I wear sandals my toes were not hitting the front or top of my shoes. But I grip with my toes and the first small toe joint, instead of rounding up it presses down. Sort of like it’s double jointed but it is not. That joint compression pushes down right below the nail bed. Anyway, how do you prevent that from happening. My solution was to take a small wad of cotton ball and tape it to the bottom of my toe where the joint bends in. Well it worked. Still had to drain the blisters but not much fluid and no swelling, redness or pain.

    Photos had captions. Also added a couple videos. Hope you enjoy the journey. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    1Sunrise over Tejo river
    2First pilgrim marker for the daySantiago Gate2Tejo river22Kitty at the place im stayingGreen wine2The 4 pilgrims having a communal dinner

    Day 5 Santarem- Azinhaga

    September 13, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Day 5 - Santarem to Azinhaga. 13 September. Started @ 7:21 am. Finished at 2:15 pm. 27.3k/17m. Walking time 5h06m. 32,564 steps. 1214 calories.

    Wow there are other pilgrims walking. At the Santiago gate I came across 6 pilgrims. Started walking with a couple and once we got out of town our pace was different, so off I went. Unfortunately did not see them the rest of the day. The other four I saw and sat with to have breakfast & coffee. Left and walked with Denise from Edmonton, Canada for the rest of the way, until I stopped and she was walking to the next town.

    Walked through vineyards and corn fields almost all day. So easy on the legs. Denise and I were gabbing too intently and missed an arrow so had to backtrack about 2 km.

    I’m staying at Casa dos Portas and what a gem. 800 m off the Caminho path, but worth the effort. It had a swimming pool! Newer building and had a garden just very relaxing place to wind down. Had my first communal pilgrim meal. The four of us staying here ate together.

    Already late so making this a bit short.

    Enjoy the photos and the journey. Bom Caminho.    Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    1

    Day 6 more photos

    September 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Along the path came across Palacio da Quinta da Cardiga. Used to belong to the Templar Knights from the Christ order. Elements from 1500’s & glazed tiles from 16/17 centuries. Several buildings - tower, chapel, wine storage, barn, cloister, palace. Also an old bridge that was used.Read more

  • Steps with LynneTravelerCamino Portuguese
    Sunrise on Day 6. Example of road walked on for 9km
    One of the churches in Azinhaga. Love how the morning sun is highlighting it1Old milepost sign to Golega. With newer official Caminho markerHuge church in Golega1Azulejo tile panel on side wall1Azulejo tile panel on side wall1Behind the altar1Breakfast! Plus Peregrino shell on my pack. Pilgrim credential/passport1'Passport' stamps so far1Cat's owner bring him to park. Has coffee. Cat roams around. Owner calls when it's time to go.

    Day 6 Azinhaga-VilaNovadeBarquinha

    September 14, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    Day 6 - Azinhaga to Vila Nova da Barquinha. 14 September. Started @ 7:12 am. Finished @ 12:30 pm. 19.4K/12.1m. Walking time 3h35m. 23,012 steps. 870 calories.

    A beautiful morning for a walk! Hated to leave Casa da Portes, but it’s a new day and a new place to go. Left before other 3 pilgrims.

    Walked through Azinhaga, about 800m down the road and for small town had a lot of churches.

    First 9k to Golega it was not the most pleasant walking day due to walking on a busy road with a very narrow dirt shoulder. Had to be very diligent to cars, buses, trucks, semis, big tractors.

    Upon entering Golega, toward the town square, came around the corner to see the church. Another out loud WOW. The inside was surprising - no gold alter but instead had beautiful tiles. Stayed in the square for an unhealthy breakfast of two pastries & double espresso!

    Just as I was leaving Debbie & Andy arrived! We are hoping to meet up in Tomar on Friday. Then as I was crossing the road, exiting the town, ran into Mikola. So the two of us walked together until I turned off in Vila Nova Barquinha.

    Along the way we came across an old palace that was used by the Templar Knights. It was so incredible.

    Photos have captions.

    Thanks for going on the journey. Bom Caminho    Read more

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