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    • Day 20

      Ile Grande

      June 10 in France ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      Auf der Ile Grande angekommen, checken wir auf dem Camping Municipal ein. Für gerade einmal 16,-€ pro Tag stehen wir hier mitten in den Atlantikdünen.

      Die Insel liegt landnah und ist durch einen schmalen Priel vom Festland getrennt. Sie ist über die einzige Straße und eine kleine Brücke zu erreichen.

      Der Granit ist hier heller, eher weiß, und der weiße Granitsand funkelt mit der Sonne um die Wette. 🌞🌟

      Anfang des letzten Jahrhunderts
      wurde der Granit der Insel so massiv abgebaut, dass das Gesicht der Landschaft verändert wurde. Die Zahlen sind echt schwindelerregend. 1910 waren es 350 Kubikmeter oder 800 Tonnen pro Tag!

      Unsere kleine 'große Insel' kann man auf dem 7km-Teilstücks des GR34 in ca. 2,5 Std. umrunden. Es gibt eine ornothologische Station, die, als wir vorbeikommen, leider nicht geöffnet hat.

      Die Ile Grande an der Côte Granit Rose ist bereits die 14. Station unseres Normandie/Bretagne-Roadtrips und definitiv eines der Highlights unserer Reise. ❤️🌟

      Wir werden wiederkommen. Irgendwann!
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    • Day 22

      Finistère

      June 12 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Das Département du Finistère liegt im Nordwesten der Bretagne und ist das westlichste kontinentale Département Frankreichs. Aufgrund seiner Lage auf der Spitze der bretonischen Halbinsel bekam es bereits in römischer Zeit den Namen Finis Terrae (Ende der Erde). Der bretonische Name lautet Penn ar Bed (Anfang, Spitze oder auch Haupt der Welt).

      Und genau dort sind wir jetzt. Eigenwillig geformte Felsgebilde säumen die Küstenlandschaft... und mit ein bisschen Fantasie kommt man auf interessante Namen dafür, z. B. 'die Faust', ein Felsgebilde direkt neben unserem Womo, in unserem derzeitigen Cam Poulfoën in Plouescat, fast ganz im Westen der Bretagne.

      Das Camp liegt auf einer kleinen Halbinsel und ist von drei Seiten mit dem Atlantik umgeben... und den Gezeiten. Beinahe stündlich ändert sich der Ausblick über die schroffen Felsen, die aus dem Wasser ragen... oder durch die Ebbe ganz blank vor uns liegen.

      Wir haben definitiv noch nie soooo nah am Atlantik gestanden, ein Foto zeigt den Ausblick aus unserem Womo-Fenster,

      Eine Moutainbike-Tour durch die nähere Umgebung zeigt uns einige wirklich einzigartige Felsformationen, wie z.B. einen riesigen Stein, der nur zwei relativ kleine Berühungspunkte mit dem Felsen unter ihm hat.

      Oder den Hinkelstein von Cam-Louis, nur ein paar Kilometer entfernt. Oder den Robbenfelsen... leider ohne Robben während unseres Besuchs.

      Wir werden sicher wiederkommen. Dieser Teil der Bretagne sieht wirklich einzigartig aus!

      Vielen Dank, Sabine+Klemens, dass Ihr uns seit Hirel so toll begleitet habt. Unsere Wege trennen sich morgen wieder, mal schauen, wann und wo wir uns wiedersehen! 🤗 Lasst es Euch gut gehen.
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    • Day 23

      Westlicher geht's nicht in Frankreich...

      June 13 in France ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      Wir sind am Pointe de Corsen, am Mer d'Iroise, das die Westküste des Finistère hier in der Bretagne umspült. Es ist ein Teil des Keltischen Meeres, der wiederum ein Teil des Atlantischen Ozeans ist.

      Wir haben ein Fable für magische Orte... und auch der angekündigte heftige Regen ☔️ und der ebenso heftige Wind 🌬 haben uns nicht davon abhalten können, dem 'Westernmost Point of Continental France' eine kurze, nasse Stippvisite abzustatten.

      Die Sicht aufs Meer hinaus ist leider sehr eingeschränkt... und ich (Tina) muss aufpassen, beim Fotografieren nicht von der Aussichtsplattform 'Pointe de Corsen' geweht zu werden. 🌬🌬🌬

      Aber was tut man nicht alles, um solch magische Orte zu erleben?

      Neben dem Southernmost Point of Continental USA auf den Keys,
      dem Southernmost Point of Continental Europe in Tarifa,
      dem Southwesternmost Point of Continental Europe am Cap
      São Vicente in Sagres und dem Westernmost Point of Spain am Cabo de Finisterre haben wir jetzt Nr.5 abgehakt. 💪

      Der Westernmost Point of Continental Europe fehlt noch auf unserer Liste. Aber zum Cabo da Roca kommen wir sicher auch noch mal.

      Auf dem kostenlosen Gemeinde-Stellplatz in Ploumoguer verbringen wir den Rest des Regentages. Morgen richten wir unseren Kompass wieder Richtung Osten, denn weiter Richtung Westen geht es auf vier Rädern ja nicht mehr.
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    • Day 24

      Dinan

      June 14 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Vom äußersten Westen der Bretagne fahren wir Richtung Osten heute eine längere Strecke. Dinan, etwas südlich von Saint Malo ist unser heutiges Ziel.

      Die mittelalterliche Stadt ist vom Stellplatz am Viadukt durch einen steilen Fußweg erreichbar... und schon bald bestaunen wir die hohen Stadtmauern und mittelalterlichen Häuser - Fotomotive wohin wir auch sehen.

      Unten schlängelt sich der Fluss Rance durchs Tal. Die Boote im Hafen glitzern in der Sonne.

      Dinan ist wirklich eine besondere Perle in der Bretagne. ❤️🇫🇷
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    • Day 71

      3 Tage in Quiberon

      August 28, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      ...haben wir zufällig am Drehort des gleichnamigen Films verbracht:

      https://youtu.be/iUI2kL0p5wU

      Hier auf der bretonischen Halbinsel erholte sich 1981 Romy Schneider, im Film beeindruckend gespielt von Marie Bäumer, von ihrem Leben und gab ein letztes tragisches Interview.
      Ganz und gar ohne Tragik sind wir fröhlich in den schroffen Felsen gekraxelt und am Abend hat Jens an der Hafen-Promenade entspannt gemalt. Wäre Romy vorbeigekommen, hätten wir sie bestimmt ein wenig aufgemuntert und sie hätte ein wunderschönes Bild gemalt.
      (in Gedenken an ihre Tage hier sind alle Bilder heute mal schwarz-weiß)

      ...we happened to be at the location of the film of the same name:

      https://youtu.be/iUI2kL0p5wU

      Here on the Breton peninsula in 1981 Romy Schneider, impressively played in the film by Marie Bäumer, recovered from her life and gave one last tragic interview.
      Without any tragedy we happily climbed into the craggy rocks and in the evening Jens painted relaxed on the harbour promenade. Had Romy passed by, we would have cheered her up a little and she would have painted a beautiful picture.
      (in remembrance of her days here all pictures are black and white today)
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    • Day 12

      Power Plant Dinard

      September 17, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Straße führte heute entlang der Rance von Dinard nach SAINT-MALO über ein Wassergezeiten Kraftwerk aus dem Jahr 1966. Damit eine der Tagesaufgaben erledigt.
      Weiter ging die Fahrt bis zu unserem Hotel in der Nähe von SAINT-MALO.Read more

    • Day 43

      Hello St Malo

      October 2, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      It is a great feeling to complete something that has been anticipated for such a long time. It is an even greater feeling when you have been able to share the experience with a group of like minded people. Unless you have actually done something like this, it is very difficult to convey exactly what it is like.

      After being through so much together, the members of the group really do begin to feel like some sort of extended family. That always makes it somewhat difficult when the ride eventually finishes and the time for farewells starts.

      Although the "official" trip finished this morning after breakfast,, the final time the whole group was together was at dinner last night. Several had to leave early this morning to catch trains to various other places. By the time we sat down for breakfast, we knew that our group was already beginning the process of breaking up. We will surely miss the fun and camaraderie that was an integral part of every day of the past 5 weeks.

      For six of us, the adventure will continue a little longer as we make our way north to St Malo. This is a wonderful coastal city in Brittany that we fell in love with several years ago. We have been back many times since then and never fail to be mesmerised by the place.

      St Malo has a rich history, being home to numerous privateers (state pirates) from the 16th to 19th centuries. It was also the site of a very important German naval base in WW2. When the German commander refused to surrender at any cost, it meant that the original old city was almost completely destroyed in the allied bombardment. It was then rapidly reconstructed in the 1950s. At first glance the city still looks medieval, however on close inspection, you can see that it is a brilliant reconstruction of what was originally here.

      There is another natural phenomenon that makes this place special - the super tides. The coastline in this region is home to some of the most extreme tidal variations on the planet. In fact the variation between high and low tides can regularly exceed 10 metres. In order to protect the city of these huge tides a massive stone sea wall has been constructed. Even with the impressive wall, at times of the king tides, the huge waves can go over the wall and crash into the waterfront buildings. At such times huge crowds gather to watch the spectacle.

      We had all had a marvellous time in Le Croisic, so much so that several of the group started to dream about how good it would be to retire there. But now the time had come for us to leave. Along with Maggie and me, there would be 4 others travelling with us to St Malo. This included Gerry and Gael and also Annie and Kay.

      The trip to St Malo meant that we would have to take three train trips. First we had to travel to Nantes, then take a second train to Rennes, and finally a third train to St Malo. Such trips can be much more exhausting than cycling, especially when you have to rapidly drag your luggage up and down numerous staircases in a very limited amount of time. It is at times like this that everyone decides that their luggage is too heavy, but no one ever remembers that when the time comes for their next trip.

      Somehow we all managed to survive the trains and we finally arrived at the Gare St Malo at 6.30 pm. Of course we still had a very lengthy walk to the Hotel Beaufort. It must be quite a comical sight seeing six old people dragging their suitcases over cobblestoned steets, vainly trying to dodge the dog poo and avoid snapping the castors off their bags each time they bounced over a curb.

      Eventually six exhausted seniors arrived at the hotel. For us it felt like we were back home. The hotel is situated right on the ocean front and the views are priceless. The manager explained to us that we had arrived right at the time of the "very dangerous king tide" that would arrive in just two hour's time. In order to help protect the hotel they proceeded to fasten wooden shutters and armoured glass panels to the seaward facing windows. I had always wanted to witness the king tides, but had not realised that it was due on the very night of our arrival.

      Although the tide rose right on time at 10.38 pm, the sea was quite peaceful. No waves came crashing through our first floor windows. I was just slightly disappointed.
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    • Day 44

      The St Malo Citadel

      October 3, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Apart from watching the never ending performance of the rising and falling of the huge tides, the other major attractions of St Malo are walking the huge sea wall and exploring the so called "old city". With such monumental tides and damaging waves to defend against, the city requires a very serious barrier to prevent their buildings being destroyed by the marine onslaught.

      The major part of these defenses is a gigantic stone wall that has been erected along the Atlantic coastline. Not only does this wall provide a primary defence against the huge waves, but it also gives the people of St Malo a perfect place to walk, jog, cycle, roller skate or walk the dog. At any time of the day you will find a continuous passing parade of people and dogs moving past.

      The old city (aka "The Citadel" is an impressive walled city that was home to a German garrison in WW2. The commander of the garrison refused to surrender and this resulted in nearly all of the original structure being destroyed by allied shelling and bombing. It was a complete waste of a priceless historic relic. An intensive 12 years rebuilding plan from 1948 to 1960 resulted in the construction of the current reproduction of the original city.

      On our first free day in St Malo we had no ambitious plans, apart from walking to the city and then wandering the full length of the sea wall. So that's exactly what we did. We even got to see a couple of dolphins cavorting near the water's edge. It was a perfect day and an ideal way to relax after our long days on the bike.
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    • Day 45

      Watching the Tides

      October 4, 2019 in France ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

      It's a strange feeling walkin on sand, knowing that in a few hours time, it will be 10 metres under the sea. But such is life in magical St Malo. Life in this city is intimately connected to the daily cycle of the rising and falling of the tremendous tides. Just watching the process is a truly hypnotic experience.

      As we left our hotel this morning the tides were at their highest. Although it is now a couple of days past the monthly maximum, the variation between high and low water levels is truly extreme.

      As the waves crashed into the sea wall there were loud thumping noises as the reflecting waves collided with those coming in. Regular sprays of foam were thrown high into the air. Crowds of people had gathered, just to watch the waves.

      Later in the day the sea had retreated many hundreds of metres, revealing a vast expanse of clean sand. This sand becomes a daily playground for a diverse range of activities. Dozens of wind surfers were also making use of the stiff breeze to race back and forth on the water. At the same time, the late afternoon sun was making a bashful appearance from between the clouds to cast an eery light on the Citadel. It really was quite a spectacle.

      In two day's time we will be leaving St Malo and heading back to Nantes to collect a hire car. From there we will be spending a few day's exploring the Dordogne Region. It has been a remarkable trip but our thoughts are starting to turn back to those waiting for us in Australia.
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    • Day 46

      A Day in Dinard

      October 5, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Reached by a 10 minute ferry trip across the Rance River from St Malo, there lies the interesting township of Dinard. Apart from the impressive collection of subdtantial "old money" homes, the other dominating feature of Dinard is the large Casino.

      Since we had no other definite plans for the day, five of us decided that it would be good to get a little sea air and take the short cruise to DInard. Another advantage of taking this short trip is that it also provides another vantage point to view the old city of St Malo.

      When we arrived at the ferry terminal we noticed that two massive passenger liners had moored in the harbour. A steady relay of transfer boats were busy transferring people from the ships to St Malo. Gerry took one look at these multistory people transports and asked "Why would anyone ever want to get on one of those ?" Since I could not think of any rational answer to his question, I replied "Damned if I know".

      Soon we had crossed the Rance and were walking along the waterfront walkway to the town centre. Since we had arrived at lunchtime, it was time to buy a baguette and coffee. Maggie recalled that the last time we visited this place her lunch had been stolen by an aggressive seagull. Not only did it pinch her raspberry tart, but it also managed to empty its copious bowels on us at the same time. It was not a happy memory.

      Fortunately this time no avian attack took place and we were able to eat our lunches without incident. It was then that the ladies discovered that it was market day in Dinard. That discovery was akin to pouring petrol on a bushfire. Within seconds they had disappeared our of sight, leaving me to snooze in the warm sunshine.

      Sometime later in the afternoon they reappeared, laden with fresh shopping and trying to justify the spending by some sort of lop sided logic about how much money they had saved. Maggie is the only person I know who seems to think that spending money can somehow actually save money that she can then spend on something else. Yes it makes no sense whatsoever, but she believes it like a fundamental law of the universe.

      It was near 3 pm when we realised that the return ferry must be about to leave. Since we did not want to get stuck in Dinard, we fastwalked to the port and just managed to clamber on board as the ferry was leaving, The timing was perfect.

      Another ten minute trip took us back to St Malo and a long walk took us back to the Beaufort Hotel. The tides had repeated their daily performance and the locals were back during their aquatic workouts.

      At the end of the day the "St Malo six" went out together for our final dinner together. Tomorrow morning we will all be heading in different directions. Maggie and I will be heading back to the Loire to revisit Nantes and to collect our rental car.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Bretagne, Brittany, Historiese Bretagne, Bretanya, بريتاني, Bretaña, Bretagne suyu, Bretan, Брэтань, Бретан, ব্রতাইন, Istor Breizh, Bretanja, Bretaňský poloostrov, Bretaniô, Бретань, Llydaw, Bretonya, Βρετάνη, Bretonio, Bretagnei poolsaar, Bretainia, برتانی, Bretanje, An Bhriotáin, A Bhreatainn Bheag, 𐌻𐌴𐌹𐍄𐌹𐌻𐌰𐍄𐌰 𐌱𐍂𐌰𐌹𐍄𐌻𐌰𐌽𐌳, Yn Vritaan, Pu-lie̍t-thap-nì, ברטאן, ब्रतान्य, Բրետան, Britannia, Bretonia, Bretagna, ブルターニュ, ბრეტანი, Бретан түбегі, 브르타뉴, Breten Vian, Armorica, Bretanė, Bretaņa, Бретања, ബ്രിറ്റനി, ब्रत्तान्य, Brétangne, Bretanha, Bertanne, Bretania, Brëtagna, برٹنی, Britagna, Breetany, Bretónsko, பிரித்தானி, แคว้นเบรอตาญ, Breton, Peretāne Iti, بریتانیہ, Burtaegne, 布列塔尼, 布禮斯, 布列塔尼半岛

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