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    • Day 19

      Mas de Games to Mas de Vers

      May 7 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Cheerful but limited breakfast at 7:30, and then a small panic as La Malle Postale van appeared at 7;45, not the standard 8am. Six people hurriedly left the table to finish packing and take their bag to the door, where they were to be collected. We left around 8am with ponchos on as it looked overcast, and there was soon a slow drizzle.

      The walk went through farms and then 3km into a small town (Limogne en Quency) where we bought some bread and cheeses, looked at the church (as always) and headed on. The total for today was around 25km, which included three small villages (Limogne en Quency, Varaire and Bach) all about 7ks apart. There was a slow downhill to the first town, but after that it was generally flat - which was good, as there was slow and light rain.

      There were a few novelties on the way. One was an old dolmen, which was about 100m off the path, and taken as a sign that in Neolithic time, people were settling around those areas. Another was seeing a deer running through a field early in the afternoon. A third was a series of 'cabane", the circular dry-stone structures in the fields that were either shelters or storage - or perhaps wells. A lowlight was the mud, especially on the last 8kms. It was almost unbroken. The rain was not a problem with ponchos and overpants, but the mud was always mud.

      The hotel - Gite de Poudally - is a little outside Mas de Vers, which is a collection of a few farms and nothing else. I did not have high expectations, but there was apricot tea on arrival, a cheerful host, big dry rooms and lost of space. Our bags were already here. One lady said it was an hotel, not a gite, which is fine by us. We contemplated going for a walk when the sun came out later in the afternoon, but quickly thought the better of it: it would involve wet grass or mud, and there was nothing nearby to see. Everyone says that May in the south of France ought to be sunny, warm and charming, so we have not seen it at its best...

      Tomorrow is the last day of the Camino. Going only on the distance from town to town, we will have done 350km in 17 days.

      34,190 steps, 27.8km and 6 flights
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    • Day 18

      Cajarc to Mas de Games

      May 6 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      We stayed in bed a bit longer than recent normal because we only had 20kms to walk. Breakfast at 8am (good cereal), bags left at reception, into town and a boulangerie, then along the river, up and down a few hills, through rocky woods and farmland and stopped at a village called St Jean de Laur for lunch at exactly 12pm - sitting on a rock with a view over the countryside.

      We knew it was 12:00:00 as the bells in the church beside us rang 12 times as we stopped, then 12 times as we put down our backpacks, then started a little tune as we ate, then another new peal when the rain started.

      Note to Nico ( who may well be secretly reading this each day): it is acceptable for your parents to have the same simple lunch several days running because we also have breakfast ( hint) and extremely varied dinners - from potatoless potato soup to amazing dishes in Conques and St Chely.

      It had been cloudy all morning - T-shirt weather once walking- but light rain set in as we sat there, so ponchos on, lunch over, setting off. It was only 6kms to the place we are staying - a ‘Chambre d’hotes’ or B&B. Another long rocky path and surprisingly monotonous scenery- thick woods, with few clearings or buildings.

      We arrived at Chambre d’Hotes La Hulotte, Mas de Game, at around 1:30, just as the rain eased. The non- English speaking host showed us the room and large kitchen/ communal area. Our luggage was here, plus 4 other cases, so perhaps 6 people at dinner tonight.

      The room is decorated in a more rustic style than hotels, but is otherwise as large and good, and we have had the large kitchen to ourselves for a few hours. It has a small garden, cows in the next field and a few old stone farm buildings and houses nearby. I walked around in sunshine, although it was only 12deg.

      Dinner at 7pm was for six - two French men, two French women and u, and all of us around the same general age. Two men spoke better English than our French, so we got along. The meal was all home-made: vegetable soup, a terrine, duck sausage and chocolate cake. A bit of discussion on how to organise caminos, and the weather outlook, as well as where we all came from.

      29,466 steps, 22.1 km and 55 flights.
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    • Day 17

      Figeac to Cajarc: sun, greenery, kms++

      May 5 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      We left our Figeac refuge around 7:45 (breakfast was naturally brilliant}, bought a baguette at a bread shop and were on the way by 7:55. There were light clouds in the sky and in the valleys, but no rain, and after a few hours were both down to a single T-shirt (each). It was a long walk - 31.3 km according to the GR65 signpost, but other than a steep hill up and then down at the start it was mostly steady small hills and flat areas, at least until a few more hills near Cajarc.

      We saw very few walkers all day, so we tottled along at our own pace. Towards the end we overtook quite a few people, but otherwise we saw almost no-one. . Anne does not use the poles, but I use one of Amr and Rosie's, especially on the rockier paths. We were mostly on small roads or wide paths, with no mud to speak of (ie not deeper than shoe soles) but towards the end there were a few longish sections of rocks.

      Mostly we were going through farmland or little woods, and going over hills often gave views of the whole countryside because it was all gentle hills. There were dry-stone walls most of the way, and we even went past a lone dolmen of unknown origin in a corner of a national park. The areas with rocky paths were probably hard to cultivate, because there were usually stunted tress and scrub beside the path, rather than fields. It was all extremely green, though - especially the rolling fields of oats or wheat.

      We stopped for lunch on a stone wall in a messy little village where the church was closed. It was around 12;30, and we had done about 19-20km. We had to refill some of our water bottles there- a first for the trip. Suddenly the "eau potable" signs were important! We also stopped at a set of signs around 2pm to take a photo for Amr, Rosie and Annie Clarke, and to ask if they remembered where they were exactly 34 years ago (Australian EST)? [A: Dinner at Amr and Rosie's in Shirley Road Wollstonecraft. Anne arrived late].

      We reached Cajarc and the hotel around 3;30, although it might have been 10 mins earlier if I thought the sign to Gite with our hotel's name would also take us to the hotel. We went into town and up the street to be sure... and they ended up being the same place.

      Our luggage was at the hitel when we arrived, so we had a shower and walked into the town. The church is big, but without the arches and vaulted roofs of other old ones, and the town has building in the same stone as Figeac and St Come, but it is not as well kept. Lots of the old buildings are closed, and seem unlikely to be used again given the advanced state of disrepair. There is a large 14th c "palace" right near the centre of town that looks like it will need squillions to be usable, even with a wonderful facade.

      We could hear a lot of cheering, so we also went to the local sports field thinking there might be a rugby game... but it was soccer. the team in green was better than the one in neck-to knee grey.

      The hotel ( La Peyrade) is part of the Logis chain, but perhaps only just. It is like a single storey country motel, although the room are much larger, so lots of space. they also have little terrace in front, with a view over the town and hills behind it. So far it's average: 1. Good wifi. 2. No tea or coffee. 3. Totally non-controllable temperature ( to the point of the panel being bolted shut. 4. Very light and open. 5 Dinner included a fish non-curry with vegetables that were surely once frozen. 6 Bed good.

      45,210 steps, 36.2km and 86 flights.
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    • Day 15

      Decazeville to Figeac: mostly sunny!

      May 3 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Today was one of the long days - somehwere between 28 and 31 km, depending on which source you believed. We took our bags downstairs, had breakfast (serve your own coffee , which was a good change after 2 days, but jam and bread) and left around 8:10. There was a lot of fog, but it wasn't raining, and a farmer we walked past early on assured us that there would not be any rain.

      A long hill out, then forests and a little too much mud until we went down to a small town on a swollen river. After that there was a good 10km of roads and dry paths through fields and woods. Talked a lot to a NZ couple, who walked at around our pace.

      After a little village called St Michel we headed on while others stopped...and hit a little more mire. It was mostly on long, flattish sections, often beside fields. There were grand panoramas as the fog lifted, and often blue skies.

      We stopped for lunch at a little church in a village called St Felix, whic was about 21km along the way. After the break we met the NZers again (who had taken the road) and walked with them pretty much to Figeac. There was a heavy shower about 30 mins out, but then we were dry when we arrived, and our hotel was right at the short bridge at the old entrance to the town.

      We might have been very lucky with the choice of hotel (the trip organiser's choice) and us deciding to spend two nights here. Figeac looks amazing! It has a very old, almost medieval village surrounded by the rest of the town, with two large churches and lots of alleys and narrow, cobbled streets. We arrived at the hotel around 3:15, feeling pretty good: there have been shorter days in worse weather that felt much harder - and the hotel is excellent. We beat the luggage, but started off washing muddy clothes, and then planning a trip to a laundromat once they came (around 4;15). The laundromat was a short walk into the old city, and while things were being washed we wandered through some of the old streets and one of the enormous churches. It really is a great town: Conques might be more spectacular, but Figeac has more, and far more character. That might be for tomorrow.

      We are having dinner with 5 American women tonight, plus a few add-ons. The five have been doing the walk as a group. The youngest is probably 70, the oldest close to 80, but they all belt along. They have been at the same hotels most nights for the last 10 days (same tour organiser). Some of them are fun, but some are also a bit depressed that they have come to France for some unspectacular weather and rough trails. Let's see if today cheered them up.

      Hotel (Pont d'Or) scores extremely well. 1. Great wifi. 2 Tea and coffee in room. 3. Temperature controllable (sort of). 4. Good size room with shelves. 5. Great bed. 6 Great breakfast. 7. Good dinners. 8 A boot-cleaner. 9. Lift

      42,408 steps, 34 km, 115 flights
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    • Day 16

      Figeac

      May 4 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Figeac is special.

      Bonus one is that we have a very pleasant hotel. Curiously, a Best Western, but easily the best so far.

      Bonus two is that we are here two nights.

      Bonus three is that Figeac is quite special. It is as if the buildings have been kept the same for at least 200 years. There are no (or almost no) new buildings anywhere through the old area, which is quite large. Lots of alleys and twisting, narrow streets, and all the houses are stone, often with blue-shuttered windows, wooden framework visible from outside and old, tiled rooves. There are two huge churches, both different but also spectacular. The man who deciphered the Rosetta Stone was born here, and the Knights Templar had a castle in the 13th-15th C, the oldest house was started in the 10th C, small mansions and places are around every corner, and there are rose bushes along the streets.

      We spent the day walking around the tourist office trail, with 30 stops, then the churches again, the river, the fair ground (1-5 May is Figeac Fair), a few different sorts of shops, the sports field, the non-old town ( still very old on the edges) and everything in between. A good place to spend two nights!

      21,519 steps, 16.2km, 24 flights.
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    • Day 7

      Loubressac, France

      April 15 in France ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      We completed our first day of walking and it was quite an introduction to this “department” in France called the Dordogne.
      The walk today was slated to be 15 miles (yes, you read that correctly), but we opted to get a ride part way to shorten it to 10 miles. The first 5 miles or so were easy and we strolled by bucolic farm fields, cattle and horses with foals. The spring flowers, blooming trees and wildflowers were captivating between their visual beauty and the heady fragrances. We had smiles on our faces as we stopped to have our baguette and cheese for lunch, all the while ignoring the cliffs that were always looming in front of us. I said, “I think we are going to go to the top of those” and Jeff agreed, saying, “I’m sure we are”. .. We did.

      The climb was quite steep and rocky, but the concerning part was that there was an impressive drop off next to the path. That is quite a challenge for 2 people who are both afraid of heights. So as we are cautiously climbing up a rock scramble, we see that there are other groups of hikers going up and down this treacherous path. Are they nuts? Oh no, we’re the ones who are nuts. We actually enjoy pushing ourselves a bit and did notice that most of the hikers were easily at least 20 years younger than us. As we looked at the route notes that guide us on our hike, we saw a term called a “balcony trail”. This is a narrow path with a steep drop off on one side. I was leaning so far to the land side while walking I think I am stuck that way.

      In any case, we were tired upon arriving at our destination, but mostly mentally from focusing so hard. We managed to down a bottle of wine and dinner without incident.
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    • Day 6

      Beaulieu, France

      April 14 in France ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

      Today was a travel day for us to arrive at the start of the walking portion of our trip. Jeff masterfully guided us on and off 2 trains and we arrived to Beaulieu, France on an 86° day-quite unusual for mid-April! It is a lovely French village where we quickly found an outdoor bar on the Dordogne River to have some drinks and contemplate why we need to walk miles and miles on our vacations while other people enjoy sitting on the beach drinking pretty drinks with paper umbrellas. Oh well, maybe we will discover the answer this week.Read more

    • Day 85

      Schönheit im Moment

      May 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Ich verlasse Lauzerte bei grauem Himmel und schon erstaunlich früh: da Martin Nr. 5 bereits um ca 6 Uhr auf den Beinen war, hat auch der restliche Schlafsaal beschlossen, den Tag nicht lange nach ihm zu beginnen. Also bin ich um 7:15 auf dem Weg.

      Abermals ist die Etappe nicht von landschaftlicher Schönheit geprägt und die Wolken tun ihr Übriges, aber ich bemühe mich, die Schönheit in kleinen Momenten zu finden: eine Wiese voller Mohnblumen, frische Kirschen am Wegesrand oder eine stimmungsvolle Kapelle. Es findet sich immer etwas.
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    • Day 3

      2. Etappe: Lauzerte (Nachtrag)

      October 29, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

      Mein abendlicher Stadtrundgang war gestern doch etwas umfangreicher als geplant, da die Suche nach einem offenen Restaurant ein wenig mehr Zeit in Anspruch nahm - dafür kenne ich nun fast jeden Winkel der Stadt und die ist wirklich sehr sehens- und teilenswert! Erst recht im Abendlicht 🥰
      Und natürlich bin ich nicht hungrig ins Bett gegangen und hab noch ein sehr nettes Restaurant gefunden 😋
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    • Day 84

      Lauzerte

      May 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      ...sieht aus, wie direkt dem Mittelalter entsprungen. Genaugenommen ist es das auch. Irgendwo auf dem Weg lese ich auf einer Tafel, dass es zu den schönsten Orten Frankreichs gehört. Das ist nicht schwer vorstellbar!
      Hier übernachte ich heute in der Gîte communal, der öffentlichen Herberge. Ich lerne Martin (Nr. 5) kennen, einen Franzosen, der in Genf lebt und nicht nur Magdalena und Benedikt noch von der Via Gebennensis kennt, sondern auch Andrea und Martin (die Österreicher. Wer auch immer das Drehbuch für meinen Weg geschrieben hat, war wirklich nicht sehr kreativ mit den Vornamen).
      Gemeinsam überlegen wir beim Abendessen, wo ich am besten meinen 100. Tag auf dem Weg feiern soll: in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, oder vielleicht sogar schon in Irún, dem ersten Ort in Spanien, falls ich tatsächlich den Camino del Norte an der Küste einschlage?
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Département du Lot, Departement du Lot, Lot

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