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Angharad Dowse
Angharad Dowse

Angharad Dowse

reiste i 56 land Les mer🇦🇺New South Wales
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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Kathmandu

    23. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Got woken up by the phone at 9 to ask if we were coming to breakfast. Lol. No thankyou.

    But alas now we were awake so we showered and got on our way - ran into Kay in the foyer - another team had to get helicopters up to Lukla. 😅😅😅
    We asked Dawa to help us get a taxi.
    450 rupees to Boudhanath Stupa.
    I could live her 10 years and not adjust to the roads.
    Literally no rules and yet no one crashes. There precision is amazing. They sit with in 1cm of the next car - but never ever hit!!
    Incredible.
    Today is dusty as all hell. Wish we brought our buffs.
    So we arrived and it cost 400 each to enter.
    It’s bigger than I expected - we went upstairs to a rooftop place to have breakfast and get a better angle of it all.
    We watched as the prepared the Stupa. There is a big festival next month where they slaughter a lot of goats. Thrilled we will miss it.
    They were throwing orange paint onto the white round top bit, adding prayer flags and orange lei things.
    After we ate we did a full lap walk around it then headed off to the Pashupatinath temple. About a 2km walk away.
    Seriously though - so dusty!!!

    We eventually found it. Signage not good - all in script.
    We found an entrance - 1000 each to enter.
    I knew we weren’t allowed to enter the temples cause we aren’t Hindu but we could go to the river and man what an experience!!!!!!

    So along the river they do public cremations.
    We saw an old lady lying on a bunch of wood and People walking in circles around her before setting underneath her on fire.
    We watched for a while then walked over to the other side of the bridge and sat.
    About 6 people were being cremated at the one time.
    Once the fire is basically done they push what’s left into the river - people bathe in the river.
    Eek.

    They were setting up another wood pile - we waited a while and a horn began to blow. 100 people walked in carrying a body covered in orange.
    The woman came in at the end, they were the only ones showing grief.
    I felt fine to take photos previously because A. We were told we could and B. No one was mourning.
    As soon as I saw people mourning I stopped filming.
    There is no correct way to grieve but I thought it was a bit much.
    They were WAILING and had to be carried away.
    It seemed like an act which makes me uncomfortable. I do hope they find peace though.

    It took them ages to put the person onto the wood and start the fire.
    We had been watching for an hour before we left. I found the whole thing fascinating.
    The lady we first watched had no finished burning by the end of the hour.

    They use buckets to wash the area of ash. They need bigger buckets. Took them 100 goes.

    It’s something I probably won’t see again.

    On the side of the river we were everyone was doin their Hindu rituals. Would take a year to explain it all. No idea what they were doing but it’s complicated AF.
    They made paste, poured white water and made paints. They had foods and dyes and rice.

    Monkeys stole a lot of people’s bananas lol.

    We then got a taxi back home. We didn’t want to really explore the temples. I was in shorts and I knew we couldn’t get in most places anyway. I saw everything I wanted/needed to see.

    We had a rest then met up with George downstairs and went to dinner.
    He is such a crack pot.
    Dancing down the street.

    We went shopping with him after as he wanted to get souvenirs for his grandkids/family.
    I bought a present for nan while out.
    And might have nicked a pair of socks cause I got ripped off.. 🙃
    I bought shoes - paid 1000 then exchanged for socks but didn’t get refunded the difference so i pocketed a second pair.
    Don’t feel bad. 500 per pair is still more than they are worth. George also bought half of the shop so the store dude had a good night.
    They are yak wool. I also bought Nana a postcard of a yak just in case she didn’t know what one was lol.
    We said our goodbyes to George in the lobby - he had written us a card. I will miss him. What a wonderful man.    Les mer

  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Kathamndu

    22. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today we slept in until 10.
    Felt like it was much later so that was a nice surprise.
    I went downstairs to get a massage.
    An odd experience to say the least.
    I got a full body one and man was it a FULL body one.
    I was really proud of myself with how I handled the leg massages.

    Included was a stomach and ear massage..
    but also my boobies.
    Like a full on boob massage. Very strange..

    we went to have lunch at the garden of dreams. Average food. Nice area. 90% less people today.

    Weather looked bleh so we went back to the hotel and accidentally had a 4 hour nap 😂

    For dinner we went to the 1st floor of the hotel and ate at the Indian restaurant there.

    Was good to catch up on so much sleep!    Les mer

  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Kathmandu

    21. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Had scheduled to meet for brekkie with Lucy and Anita downstairs. I really enjoyed having fruit options this morning.
    After this we transitioned to downstairs to meet with Kay and Dawa.
    We are so lucky, todays group that are flying to Lukla are still in the airport. Lukla is closed again and they will have to get helicopters ($300USD each)
    We are the only group that has flown by plane so far.
    They had to leave because they got a call and someone in that group is real sick. Couldn’t hear everything but i heard “hospital”.

    We went for a walk to find paintings we found a few shops. The first one we found was great - dude wasn’t pushy and gave us reasonable prices of the bat. depending on size it was like 75-300$.
    We told him we were going to look at others and might come back so he gave us his card.
    We found a few more. The first place dude was a pest, reallllly passionate but ugh, go away lol.
    He also said $900 for the same things lol. Which made the first shop dude look even better.
    We browsed though others but really wanted to give the first guy our business. So we decided to go back but first, lunch.
    Kathmandu has some great mocktail options.
    There was a cat at the resturant who had a collar - i offered it some chicken but it preferred the ash tray lol.
    It was such a cat. Not scared of me but looking at me with such distain when I gestured for it to come get a head scratch haha.

    I really liked the lunch spot - it was called electric Pogoda.

    As we were walking back to the painting place we popped into a short store and bought a yak yak yak shirt for Jax and a basecamp one for me.
    $8 for both without even bartering. Dude kept the change just for being honest.

    Went and bought 2 paintings. We bought 1 each and it was about $270 all up I think.
    Very pleased.

    Went back to the hotel and ran into Anita. We exchanged emails and said our goodbyes. She bought me a pashmina scarf as a present.
    I will miss her, she is bonkers. 😍

    We dumped our stuff and headed back out to the Narayanhiti palace museum.
    They were really strict. You could not get your phone in, it had to go into a locker.
    Only things allowed were water and wallets.
    They patted you down to check.

    I really enjoyed inside. It was quick and to the point, you walked through the palace in a circuit and it a quick sentence were told the purpose of each room.
    The entire palace is a living embodiment of “Grandmas house”
    Very 1970’s with wood, carpets, orange, browns, tan and greens.
    Such a waste of space - many of the rooms were only used for one day a year.
    This place is significant because it’s the location the Royal family was shot and killed in 2001. Surrea it’s so recent.
    The prince is the accused - he died from his gun shot wound 3 days after the event - he was crowned King for those 3 days.
    There is a conspiracy theory around the event because the prince was right handed but was shot in his left temple.
    Once through the main palace you went outside an into a different building section - here it had signs identifying the exact spots the Royal family members were shot and died.
    Gun bullets holes remain on one of the wall.
    I really enjoyed the experience.

    on the way back we went to the garden of dreams.
    $4 to enter and inside wasn’t that great tbh.
    It seems to be a location of status though. Everyone was getting selfie after selfie. Almost lik if you can afford entry you are wealthy and have to flaunt it.
    The highlight were the chipmunks - I’m now led to believe they are a small squirrel.

    We went shopping for Will. He got some shit from Nike and Adidas.

    Returned to hotel and spoke with Lucy for an hour in the lobby and said our goodbyes.

    Later we went to dinner with Helen and Tom. What a great couple - we had lots of laughs!

    Said our goodbyes to them too :(    Les mer

  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Kathmandu

    20. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    5:30 brekkie. Last of this stupid early shit.
    At 6 we made a move to airport next door.
    Customs checks through bags by hand and decided we were 15kg over weight ... we weren’t overweight on the way here..
    scam lol.
    It’s only $1 per kilo over but still. What BS lol.
    I added a rock but everyone else has lost weight.
    Sneaky buggers don’t removed bag from the previous group.

    Sat in airport a while watching helicopters get ready to leave.

    Currently on plane on wrong side again. Other side has the terrific views.

    We landed easily. I like little planes a bit more now lol.
    Helens bag was on next flight so Pasang stayed at the airport.
    I like Kathmandu more this time around. I’m excitedly see people and it’s so different to the mountains.
    Once at the hotel we unpacked, enjoyed the shower, flushing toilet and returned our hired items. (Poles, sleeping bag, down jackets and mattress things.) very sad to say bye to my poles.

    We went out to kfc. Amazing. 😭 it’s different but oh so satisfying. How I have missed meat.

    We went back to the hotel and lounged about until 7 when we were all meant to be going out for pizza only Helen and Tom bailed cause they didn’t want to go with Lucy but then Lucy bailed herself cause she is claiming her knee is sooooo bad she can’t walk. George was listening in on her convo with Kay and it sounded like she was trying to get a free trip out of this whole thing. He is furious.
    So pizza ended up being me, Will, Anita, George, Kay, Dawa, Pasang and another Ian Taylor guide dude.
    The place we went to was lovely! It’s called fire and Ice and It was great! Great vibe, great layout, great food!
    Dawa paid for everyone’s drinks and food. 😍
    We had good conversations and 1000 dad jokes from George.
    I had a lovely evening.
    We got given presents - we got a green scarf - similar to the white sash we got upon arrival. Whites for welcome, green is for goodbye.
    We got a mug with our picture on it, a cd of sherpa music feat Pasang and a certificate. I’m annoyed over my certificate though because it says I went up Kala Pattar when I didnt. Can’t put it on the wall. FRAUD lol.
    We said our goodbyes to Pasang at the hotel. Very sad. Glad Helen wasn’t there cause she would have cried and that would have set me off 😅
    Pasang leaves tomorrow to do it all over again with another team.

    We met a few of the other team earlier in the day and one of them recognized Lucy and was all I’m a big fan.
    I reckon her head nearly exploded off her neck.
    Anita was surprised ... bloody Anita 🤦🏼‍♀️
    It’s like she though Lucy was joking this whole time?? Beautiful woman. So. Stupid. 😂    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Lukla

    19. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Last day - so over it. Hahaha. So happy by the end of today we will be done.
    When we came up to breakfast Lucy had already gone to get her helicopter.
    We both signed George’s shirt which is having fraud and put up in his office.

    It’s much busier now. Lukla has been closed for days so it’s still only barely scratching the surface on how busy it does get.

    I will miss seeing random animals. Especially the cows.

    And off we went. 27km to do today.
    My knee was ok at the start but I’d say about 10km in my left knee was dying, I couldn’t really bend it.
    Getting down from Namche was much better than going up lol.
    It was really muddy and Pasang fell on his ass lol. He had to walk with shit on him all day.

    We went over lots of bridges today only they weren’t as fun because they hurt my knee this time when you had to really grip to stay grounded - especially the time the yaks were on at the same time making it bounce around everywhere!!

    I was really struggling so Pasang sprayed some shot on my knee - no idea what it was for.
    Will wanted to carry my bag for me but I refused. I want to finish this.

    We stopped in at Monjo or tea and eventually stopped somewhere for lunch which took ages to go our food (loved the extended break haha)

    Wills memory of the trail is very impressive. He knows all the ups and downs about to come after walking it once over a week ago.

    Constant problem of too hot then too cold.
    1 year later arrived to Lukla. Never been so pleased lol. It really is a cute town.

    Everyone got a lot of shit off their chest today re Lucy. We all bonded quite nicely because we were all able to be ourselves today.

    When we got to lukla we stayed at the place next to the airport. - Happy with the room though the lighting is non existent.

    For dinner I ate some salad, felt sick and left to go back to the room.
    Will got me a towel Incase of gastro attack.
    I ended up being fine. Crashed out hard!    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Namche

    18. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We slept good but Will woke up stiff and sore cause of the bed.
    It was raining today so we put on our rain gear before we even left - the sherpas are just excellent at all life skills and fixed Wills pants - thankfully or he would have gotten very wet.

    It’s a very miserable cold day.

    Lots of cunt hills today. I just can’t breath 😂
    Today was my hardest day mentally. It had a lot of flats, a massive down I honestly don’t know how I previously climbed but also a lot of upset
    I was wet, cold but also too hot, my legs were aching and we had hours to go.
    I had to jaw wobble moments today. Not proper cries (not sure if I actually dispelled tears or if rain lol)

    Today we saw some musk deer so they was pretty cool - they are endangered :(

    We walked back through were we saw the monks chanting - they were all out in about in color coordinates gum boots hahaha

    Having the same constant problem of don’t need to poo of toilet is available. Need to poo immediately after we have left.
    So over being constipated. Little wombat poos all the time.

    We saw 2 dog fights today. I instinctively screamed at the start of both attacks. No one else did 😅
    Both dogs pulled up ok I think. At least their faces were still attached.

    We had a dog follow us for so long we named her clementine.

    Views are so disappointing.

    We finally arrived and it was a great feeling. We met Ian Taylor whose group arrived in Namche today. He seems lovely, we are happy to support his company.

    We had a hot shower. It was beyond magical. We both haven’t showered in in over 8 days.
    We smell.
    We were cold.
    So happpppy.
    We also got our in the newer section of the teahouse this time - much nicer.

    My legs were so sore. My calf and knee was GONE.
    I could barely walk, I put on like half a jar of tiger balm.

    My phone had been pretty much dead since base camp but as we were no longer in ridiculous temperature it decided to stop freaking out and work again

    All my clothes are wet and smell but at least we came off better than Tom and Lucy whose entire duffel bags got wet inside from the rain.

    Ok so the big story of the day is the shit Lucy is trying to pull.
    So as previously mentioned she can’t walk down a hill and needs to hold a guides hand.
    Today we were going down big hill and she was being assisted and Gilbo had her hand and helped her across a rock she was having trouble with.
    She freaked out, slapped his hand away and told him to leave.
    5 more hours she walked without issue.

    Once we arrive in Namche she comes out with the story that Gilbo pulled her so hard that she has torn a knee tendon. (<— have only just learnt that that word does not end in a T 🤯🤯)
    And she can’t walk, it’s ruined her trip and she is gonna have to get a helicopter to Lukla tomorrow.
    So essentially what she has done is thrown a mans livelihood into jeopardy, potentially damaging a company image and lied about what happened (George, Will and I all saw the “incident”)
    Do not throw people under the bus because of your own incompetence.
    Ian was really worried because of her past record (lost a sexual assault court case for lying/concealing info under oath. I.e she makes things up)
    She is using his insurance not hers to get the helicopter for unknown reasons.
    If she sues or makes something out of this all 6 of us will defend Gilbo.
    Why can’t you just say you hurt your knee?
    Why undermine someone who has tried to help you daily for 2 weeks?
    Everyone is furious.
    George and Helen spoke privately with Ian to discuss her behavior the whole trip.
    Ian basically said he doesn’t know why Pasang didn’t turn her around on day one if she couldn’t walk downhill.
    I just don’t want anyone to get into trouble. They are all so wonderful.

    In Namche after dinner we were told to all wait.
    They brought out a cake and Pasang sang us a song on a traditional instrument. Loved it!
    All the sherpas in the teahouse began to dance.

    I have been thinking long and hard and I think I’m onto why I’m not as impressed as expected about the mountains.
    I think it’s because in my mind they were going to be bigger.
    Everest is 8km high or whatever but really it’s only 3 from the ground. It’s the sea level position that adds its height rather than a singular ridiculously big mountain standing alone.
    I bet that will make no sense when I one day ready it back.
    Basically they weren’t as big and intimidating as expected.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Periche *

    17. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Woke up hating life Lol.
    Specifically the fact that it was 5am, freaking freezing and we had to pack all our shit.

    The yaks were found overnight and on their way 😂

    We finally got out of our tent and snow was everywereeeeee.

    We had small water puddles in our tent and because Will was using my down jacket as a pillow it was wet 🙄 of all the days.. I had no choice but to wear it.
    FREEZING.

    We headed back to Gorakshep for breakfast.
    My legs/thighs hurt today. First time.

    Had brekkie. So over the brekkie. Rock hard butter cannot be spread onto soft bread.

    We walked for hours until we eventually stopped for tea at Lobuche.
    Everyone was done. Everyone. We were all knackered - no one slept overly well at base camp.
    Helen has such a bad headache she cried when asked what drink she wanted.

    From then it was mainly Sherpa flats and downs. There was one down that went for bloody ever I’m surprised we successfully climbed it. Lol
    The weather was terrible. Fog fog fog.
    It was also sprinkling.

    We had lunch at the bottom of the hill at the place who previously had no cheese.
    I got some chips and fed 2 dogs some of the leftovers. One of them had been in a BAD fight and had chunks of its face ripped off. Amazing it’s not infected, even with the cold I’m surprised the dog is going ok. We also saw a cow that had presumably been gouged by a yak horn. Again, no sign of infection just a big ass wound.
    I had a panic when I gave the dogs the chips cause I dropped some and I was scared they would fight for them but they were fine.
    Everyone else hated the wounded dog and was like get it away from me :(

    We walked on and crossed the small suspicious ply wood bridge. Due to the rain the river was ferocious.
    First time putting them on and Will broke his rain pants. 🙄
    Yay for more flats. As we walked we spotted many many yaks. Love them.

    Finally made it.
    Day 1 of 3, 25km days.

    Nice dining area, flat out exhausted and went to our rooms ASAP.

    Our bed is literally a table with a sheet on it 😂
    It also has a toddler blanket ie a is for apple, b is for butterfly etc. lol

    We went back for dinner and everyone was watching the movie ‘Everest’ - we saw the last 40 minutes. I want to watch when home.
    It was cool to see depictions of the characters from the memorials.
    I had Popcorn for dinner, as did George.
    My phone is fucked. It died at base camp because of the cold.
    Good sleep.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Everest base camp

    16. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    So at 3:30am when I got up to get ready for Kala Pattar I call it quits.
    I felt horrendous. I felt so woozy and I just couldn’t. Not if we then had to immediately go to base camp.
    Helen, Tom, George and Anita went.
    Will, Lucy and I stayed behind.

    They got back around 8 and said they enjoyed it but it was the hardest thing they had ever done.
    They said they saw views but the pictures they showed us suggest otherwise.

    We all had breakfast together and planned to leave for base camp pretty much straight after only..
    OUR YAKS WERE MISSING 😂

    Such a caffuffel. It took hours for our guides to organise but we eventually found porters to carry our bags to base camp. I was very relieved cause there had been talk that we simply might not be able to sleep there and only visit.

    We ate lunch and left around 12:30.
    It took about 3 hours to get there. It was probably my favourite walk because we were finally going to our goal.
    The walk was just rocks and stones and finally some snow capped views.
    We had lots of fasty fasty moments due to dangerous areas with potential rock slides.
    We took such a long and indirect route. The path changes ever season as the landscapes moves and changes.

    When we finally made it my eyes burned. I was so proud of us for making it and in disbelief.

    We got photos with the famous rock with the height even though it’s incorrect by 1 meter.
    The ice field is beautiful. I love thinking that the core is millions of years old. Very cool.
    We were on a big glacier - it was cool in sections to see under the rock and grit ice and or little stream.

    When we first arrived the sherpas were putting up our tents and toilet tent (essentially a chamber pot with a plastic bag to catch everything. Cute)

    Everyone was having their own minor photo shoots lol.
    We also got hot drinks which were appreciated.
    It started to snow to we all went into our tents and set up.
    Blowing up the air mattress was hard work. Had to take it slow. Hard to breath up there.
    The guides are beyond amazing, they worked in the snow and did like 5 separate rounds.
    First we got popcorn and soup broth.
    Second we got our oxygen checked
    Third we got hot drinks
    Fourth we got Dal Baht. (Rice, lentils, potatoes etc)
    Fifth we got boiling water for our bottles and hot water bottles.

    The snow was fierce!
    We both needed to pee. It took us like 10 minutes to get out of the tent, moving is hard.
    On the way bag in I snagged the zipper on the outside of the tent and neither of us could fix it..
    We still had the inner layer zip but still.. Will was no happy lol.

    I bought a liner for Will to use in our Aussie sleeping bag. But for his own reasons refused.
    I was fine cause I hired mine so it was a better quality but at one point I had to wake Will is cause he was shaking in his sleep. Quite frightening actually.
    He then got over his mood about me braking the tent and we snuggled for warmth.
    I needed to pee again but refused to leave the tent again.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Gorakshep

    15. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Today was the first place that offered peanut butter for breakfast so I was all over that.
    I am having some serious and constant pins and needles in my feet. Especially my right one. 😪😪
    Off we went. Lost the toothpaste so fresh breath today. Sorry everyone.
    We walked a little bit and spotted a Pika which is from the rodent family.
    I asked Pasang what he eats and he responded with
    “They like cookies” 😂
    Not quite what I meant.
    It was so efficient and graceful and moving in and out of the rocks!

    The first bit was Sherpa flat meaning not what I think is flat but flat enough that I am super happy about it.
    Peeing in privacy is getting harder now that more people are trekking.

    Lucy flat out sucks at going downhill. She is scared the rocks are gonna move or something.
    Others were getting fed up but I didn’t mind. We each have different skills and she was genuinely fearful. She had a cry. I was so awkward about it.
    “...do you want a hug?” 🤷🏼‍♀️

    Honestly our main issue is breathing. We are panting like dogs. I also had another headache today and had some pain meds.

    We saw some snow cocks which was cool. They were well camouflaged into the rocks but they were making a racquet so they were easy to spot.

    We keep running into an Israeli man and he is already one of my favourite people.
    He got to the top of a hill and saw that it was going back down and with such passion in his accent
    “OOO I HATE IT”
    I have literally been laughing about it all day.
    My sentiments exactly 😂

    We got to a glacier field which was beautiful. Sounded like thunder when a small section of it caved in.

    So many rocks. It’s like another planet up here. Nothing grows.
    Just rocks and more rocks.
    They have to take a different path every season cause the landscape changes.

    After what seemed like an eternity of rock-climbing we finally made it to the top of our final hill from where you could finally see Gorakshep and Basecamp in the distance. You can see it 😭
    When we arrived we had lunch and had a group discussion about day plans because we are supose to climb Kala Pattar this afternoon but the weather just isn’t good for it. Can see anything It’s rainy. We are considering doing it at 4am tomorrow instead. I will need to have a think about it. I don’t want to climb it if there is no views. Tomorrow is also base camp and I don’t want to do anything to jeopardize making it. Walking in the dark over rocks isn’t the safest idea me thinks. We shall see.

    We went upstairs to our room. I think this is my favourite so far. Cute and cozy.
    We accidentally had like a 3-4 hour nap 😅😅

    Ok so I take back the favourite award.
    Rooms are cute but everything else sucks.
    The toilets are beyond horrifying.

    I decided to do Kala Pattar tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Lobuche

    14. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    7:30 breakfast. Today was the first time we both had all aspects of our lives together BEFORE breakfast.
    We have been doing teeth and sunscreen afterwards but have been last ready every time.

    The start of today was uphill but it chilled out very soon into it.
    A magical 2 hours were had on flatness just spotting wild yaks, looking at flowers and getting some distance smashed out.

    It’s starting to get very rocky. Landslides would be an obvious contributor but it’s just the landscape.

    We had to walk down a wee bit to cross this dodgy looking bridge made of plywood suspended over raging rapids. The yaks when first which help promote its stability. Lol
    It was a beautiful section.

    Up a bit and lunch.
    We all put our orders in and like 6/7 of our orders involved cheese...
    our food comes out
    Oh sorry we don’t have cheese.
    Like that’s totally fine but tell us so we can change our order. I ordered Mac and cheese and got pasta covered in tomato sauce instead.

    Then came the crappy part of the day.
    Very steep section for about an hour but it hurt the lungs. I had to pant my way up.
    Breathing is hard.
    I also took 2 nurofen at the half way point cause I was getting a bad headache.
    It was also half raining half sunshine so super hard to find a comfortable temperature.

    Finally made it 🎉 🎉 🎉

    At the top was the Everest memorials for people who had lost their lives on the mountain - this was my favourite part of the day.
    We wandered around looking and ready headstones for about 20 minutes. Pasang’s friends memorial was there - Baba Chiri Sherpa. He holds 3 world records including the fastest to ever summit, time without oxygen aid (21 hours) and summiting twice in 2 weeks.
    Scott Fischer and Rob Halls memorials were also there along with many others.

    On we went and this section was flat too 🙌🏼🙌🏼
    Visibility is POOR.

    The yaks we use to cart our stuff up the mountains are half cow half yak.

    We finally reached Lobuche which is 5030m/ 16,502ft.
    Can feel it! 😂

    OUR TEAHOUSE WAS THE CLOSEST ONE TODAY 😱
    Very cozy inside and our room is simple but cute. Currently trying not to nap. Big day tomorrow. 2 separate treks.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Dingboche

    13. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    It’s Anita’s birthday today so we all signed a post card and gave it to her.
    I had the best jam for breakfast. It’s was red so presumably it was a berry but it was straight up bubblegum flavored. Delish!
    Today was another acclimatization day so we didn’t have to pack up our big duffels huzzah! Our shit is everywhere 😅😅

    Getting water organized is way harder the higher you go.

    Off we went for another fun climb. 😂
    We went from 14,400ft to 16,100ft in 2 hours.

    Today was hard. Had real issues breathing but not only that it was really cold but we were simultaneously also overheating. And then came the rain which made the whole experience quite miserable you normally do it for the views but there were none 😂
    Still in the damn cloud. Bit annoying, hopefully it does clear up.

    Me, Will and Anita went extra slow today.

    We were all fucking dying and our bloody Sherpa guide was so UNCHALLENGED he was clipping his fucking nails as he walked.
    I was busy hyperventilating. Maybe I’ll clip them next time 🙄

    Soooooo happy when we reached the top. We stayed there for about 20 mins and got some
    Pics.
    And back down we went.
    Ahhh,much better haha.

    We saw a vulture on the way which was cool.

    We have had our lunch and our daily nap. Have to pack our duffels tonight 😩

    Went down for dinner. Because it’s Anita’s birthday the sherpas organized a cake and present for her (beanie) they also each presented her with a traditional silk scarf thingo.

    The sherpas put tiger balm on our temples and noses to help with our colds and Anita goes:

    “They have banned that is some places actually because it’s made from real tiger”

    I can’t.

    How is she a person.
    Like, I like her but man is she painful!

    I’m not very hungry atm but trying to make myself eat.
    Decided to pack tomorrow morning which I will absolutely regret but can’t really do now cause my sleeping bag is out.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Dingboche

    12. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Today was the first day I successfully closed my duffel bag without assistance.
    My morning fun also included a nose bleed.
    Off we went.
    It was an easy start today going downhill until we reached a bridge. The old one lay nearby destroyed us the 2015 earthquake.
    Then we went up up up. There is a lot of big boulders covered in white script.
    We eventually arrived at the Pangboche monastery, a stop a lot of people miss because you have to climb higher to reach it.
    Me and Will were super keen because it’s home to the famous Yeti skull.
    Pangboche is the oldest Sherpa village.
    The monastery was built in the 16th century.

    It cost 250 rupees to enter.
    Hated taking off my shoes my feet reeked!
    Inside wasn’t as nice as yesterday’s but it was still cute. Much smaller and less WOW factor but still had lovely artistry and paintings etc.
    the yeti skull and hand were in a locked box. Very cool. I don’t know if they have ever been examined (can’t check no wifi 😅) but I’d love to know more about them. The hand is huge and the head has fur rather than hair. They look like real bone to me 🤷🏼‍♀️
    Very cool. Wish we could take photos but at least my entry ticket which is in my written journal has a pic.

    We then had tea in a tea house just above. I gave a dog a few biscuits and it followed us for the next hour and a half to the next village. Haha
    There was also a ratty kitten, I would love to squeeze but it had yucky ears :(

    1.5hour walk to our lunch spot. For my hot drink today I had hot grape and really liked it.
    Our dog friend seemed to know some of the dogs and abandoned us to go play. 😍
    Today’s hike was my favourite, after lunch we then kept climbing but it was a gradual and not a suicide mountain.
    I did roll my ankle but my boots saved me.

    There were 2 sections of the trek that killed me. Due to falling rocks you had to be super quick to cross.
    COULD. NOT. BREATH. 😂
    We saw some wild yaks. The wild ones are fluffier.
    The river we have been following for day one finally and to a fork. The left side was being fed from island peak and the right was from the Everest glacier.
    I drank little water today cause I’m pretty sure my hand sanitizer got into my water supply when I clears the nozzle.

    We arrived!!! 🤗🤗🤗🤗
    We are always, ALWAYS in the tea house furthest from the entrance gate.
    We had tea. (Love this system gets your fluids up)
    Got my sleeping bag out for the first time. Dinner then bed.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Tengboche

    11. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    So today can go fuck itself. 😂😂

    Had porridge for breakfast and I reaaaaaally had to push to eat it. Lots of climbing today.
    I’m at Tengboche at the minute and turns out in my rush this morning I think I have left my good merino at Namche. Gutted. Gonna freeze 😂

    Anyways off we went.
    Up up up for the first bit. The same Heinous route we have done 3 times now 🙄
    But then we had a beautiful 1.5 hours of mainly flat and smashed out a few K’s. Fav part of today hahah.
    Along the way there was a dude taking donations. He uses the money to make sure the path stays in good condition. He only wants small change so we gave him 20 rupees which is literally nothing but I only had 1 thousands.
    The views are spectacular but unfortunately the snow capped parts are currently covered by cloud.
    Will is feeling like total crap today. He didn’t sleep and has the on set of a cold.
    Willpower is the only he has for pushing him today.
    We went DOWN 200meters to have lunch meaning we had to refucking climb it. But before lunch we had a tea break at some place - sun was so bad I actually put sunnies on. I took them back off to walk agin. Can’t stand them.
    We crossed a suspension bridge and finally reached lunch. The toilet was gross but not the worst. It at least had the compost to help with the smell.
    Of course I had to have a poo on the way 🙄
    But my aim was true. 😂💪🏻

    We sat for about 40 minutes having lunch. Every meal now we get table chips. Great idea. 10/10.
    Really enjoyed their version of hot mango too.

    And so became the cunt part.
    2 hours to climb.
    Up and more up and up

    And Up

    More up.

    Still going up.
    Will was dying.
    I’m actually really proud of him.
    He wasn’t talkative and kept to himself but pushed on.
    George insists on talking or singing stupid ass songs.
    The amount of dad jokes is just unbelievable.

    We finally made it 😭😭😭

    Sitting in a cloud. Lots of cows just grazing and a random horse.
    Our tea house will do.
    It’s shared toilets but they are the cleanest I’ve seen.
    We are on the second floor though and the altitude is really starting to effect our breathing.
    1 flight of stairs and we have run a marathon.
    It was about an 8 hour hike today.
    We are now sitting at 3875m.

    We had about 20 minutes to gather ourselves and change clothes etc before we headed over to the monastery.

    Never updated this from earlier - Lucy and George are strangers, not married.

    Anyway the monastery had wonderful colours.

    We took our shoes off, walked in to the main hall had a look at the beautiful bigass statue of Buddha mixed with other stuff. Also the beautiful roof paintings before we all sat against the wall on foam mats.

    We sat informal silence and meditation until the monks came in.
    They stood in their spot, (rows of wooden benches with robes waiting) put on their big fluffy robe then sat. We sat there for an hour watching them chant. There was a lighting of candles thing going on to. But only one monk did that.

    LOVED the first 20 minutes.
    From then on I really needed to pee, I had such BAD pins and needles, I was cold and a little over it tbh. They don’t move. They just sit.
    One dude was full of yawns though. Lol

    So pleased when they were done lol.
    Wish I could have filmed. I got a sneaky super shitty blurred photo once they left.

    Ran to pee at the tea house.

    Dinner and an early night.
    Will is already asleep. Took him 3 mins max.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Namche Bazaar

    10. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Breakfast at 7:30. Had pancakes today. We were told to pack long sleeves for the trek.

    Ok so fuck me it was so hot. Even the energizer bunnies that are Tom and Helen were going slow cause they were overheating.

    Constant hill for 2 hours.
    Unfortunately it was total cloud coverage so couldn’t see shit but the trees started thinning the higher we climbed and the alpine flowers were everywhere and very beautiful! Helen and George are flower experts.
    Me? That is a white flower and that is a purple flower.. 😂
    Vocab for daysssss

    Basically all we did was climb.
    And climb
    And climb.

    We eventually reached the top. And we hung out there for a while to get use to it then headed back down. I am much better at down.

    Needed to pee so badly so I practically ran down the mountain.

    Lunch I had pasta again cause it’s a good portion as actually delicious. I tried to scoop out as much garlic as possible.

    Back in the room now. Having our nap then hopefully will go walk around.

    Went for a walk and found some art galleries we will have a look at on the way down.

    Such a jaggered city. Constantly going up or down to get somewhere.

    Love the random cows.

    Leaving Namche tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Namche Baazar

    9. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Breakfast was at 8 - I had porridge with honey. Need energy meals when trekking. Lotssss of honey to make it edible lol.
    Off we went.
    Anita was having tummy problems and shortly into the trip started vomiting. She went back down to rest.
    We walked past some bells to spin. I have real trouble spinning them if they are already spinning. I just hit the air lol.
    It was not a big walk today, walked up hill for a while but then in flattened out - we walked to the Tenzing Norgay memorial.
    There was also a little factual museum type thing there we had a peek at and also views of the tipity top of Everest.
    Inside the museum thing it had info about Sherpas which is a type of nationality. You are born into it.
    Not all porters are sherpas. But here most are.

    We found a dog lounging in the sun who then followed us all day.
    I also spotted a cool butterfly I watched for a while.
    Anita rejoined us. She was feeling better. Even though I find her to be so stupid and loud I’m glad. I’d hate for anyone to be sent home.

    I love the colour combos on a lot of their stuff. It’s like strong rainbow colours.
    We walked back down and went to the Sherpa museum.
    We went into and old, traditional Sherpa house - the same dog made himself at home on the seats hahah
    It was quite cozy inside and randomly large. It had all the pots and utensils and quick explanation of purpose on display but it also even had separate rooms/sections and a downstairs.
    Every morning they collect water say from
    The river - they have to fill 7 small bowls with the water as offerings to the Gods before they are allowed to drink.

    We then went into 2 separate rooms filled with photos or news articles.
    We then went to different room and watched a 110 slide slideshow about the area.

    Went to a drop toilet someone is sick and has white poo and it’s fresh cause it was on top 🤢🤢🤢

    The view of Namche from above is so cool.

    Got back and had lunch
    Had garlic so I still have heartburn

    Went to the oldest bar thing in Namche and watched a video about the first dudes who jumped/parachuted off Everest. Originally only went for WiFi but it didn’t work which was lame.

    Bought WiFi at the tea house we staying at and it worked woo!
    We had a nap.

    Will was tired/headache so I went alone with everyone to visit Kancha Sherpa. The last surviving member of the 1953 successful summit of Everest. He so cute.

    I was annoyed at our Sherpa who was translating because everyone was asking such wonderful questions but 90% remain unanswered.
    We’d ask Kancha Sherpa things like how did you feel - which is a question only he could answer but our Sherpa translator would answer without even asking him?
    Helen was also like can you please tell him why an honor to meet him.
    “Yes”
    Then says nothing. 🤦🏼‍♀️
    Just shit like that I was getting pissed off.
    Regardless I am so pleased to have met him. He contributed to history.
    I held his hand for a photo hehe.
    Loved it

    Will didn’t come, he was in bed still. Snooze you loose.

    We had dinner then bed.

    Lucy has this incredible super power to turn any conversation into abuse against woman. Just fucking shut up. I don’t necessarily disagree with her but fuck me IT IS EVERY CONVERSATION.
    Constantly rolling my eyes.
    You are in a group. Keep the peace. Bloody hell.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Namche Baazar

    8. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    At breakfast hall by 7.
    Out by 8.
    Had rice pudding - very satisfied cause at least today I’ll have something in my tummy. Yesterdays breakfast was grossly dissatisfying.

    Off we went.
    To summarize:
    Today was all uphill and killed my soul😂

    My phone was o my on 9% to begin with and as I usually use my photos as a memory prompt I hope i don’t forget things.

    Stairs, stairs, several bridge and a relentless fucking hill.

    Got a few sensational photos. The one of me standing by a sign has Everest’s tip in the background even though my phone is a piece of shit and blended it into cloud it was our first glimps and I promise it’s there lol.

    Walking in the shade is my jam. Sun destroys me and my steps become half size.

    We watched mules cross over the bridge which was pretty cool.
    It really does all blend in.

    You also spend 85% of the time looking at the ground, not up because you don’t want to trip.
    Considering it is a challenging walk I actually am bloody proud of my leg strength and perseverance. I struggled at the end, I couldn’t keep up with the others - I’m fine at my own pace so that’s exactly what I did. Took my time and kept my heart rate low. And I made it.
    Thankyou diamox. 😘😘😘

    Drank all my 3L on the walk.

    Beyond fucking thrilled to reach Namche Baazar. (11,155ft)
    City/town is awesome!! It’s on the side of a monuntain.

    We saw some wild mountain goats as we came in and girls going the washing in a fountain thing.

    We had lunch and I’ve just woken from a 2hr nap.

    Went for a 10 minute walk and a) found a cat and b) a memorial for the first female Sherpa to climb Everest. She died in 2007 - she fell 8000m which is truly horrifying. She was only 37. I love that there is a monument to her. Being a female Sherpa is presumable a big ass deal. We haven’t seen one yet.

    Had dinner then bed.
    I have some heartburn but I think that’s cause there was garlic in my tomato soup.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Monjo

    7. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    It was an early start. 4:45 we left the hotel for the airport - we were given cute little breakfast boxes (stale pasteries, hard boiled egg, an apple and juice)

    So glad we have a guide cause the airport is so stupid. Just unnecessary confusion.
    When we arrived lots of people were already there - a lot of people in cotton shirts and backpacks without hip supports - they are gonna regret that!

    We had to walk through security scanners - Lucy took her breakfast in a bag with her instead of putting it on the conveyer belt for X-ray and so they asked her what was in it and she said food.
    They didn’t check...

    I used my shewee for the first time before we went out to our plane. No spillage 💪🏻

    The plane was tiny. Fits about 20 people.
    Had cute little propellers. I find it cute now because we didn’t die. 😅
    Minor anxiety but it took off really easy so that was aces. Kathmandu is actually quite lovely from above. Colorful.
    The left hand side had the best view of the mountains - it was about a 30 minutes flight but As we got to Lukla we got told we had to divert because of the cloud coverage and we landed about 10 minutes on in the most fucking random
    Spot 😂😂

    Very rural.
    Used their toilet and nearly vomited. Horrendous smell.

    We were there for about 30 minutes before we gave Lukla another crack.

    Landed fine.
    Anxiety was high but we didn’t die so all is well.
    If you don’t stop in time you hit a wall..

    I was that person who clapped upon landing. I do not apologize.

    Only very few pilots are allowed to fly into Lukla.
    #madskillz

    We were led into a room for tea before we got on our way.
    Took so long for us all to pack our bags 😅
    We are all just making shit up as we go along. Haha
    We met some of our yaks outside who graciously agreed to carry our duffel bags up for us.

    And off we went 🎉🎉

    We had to walk around Lukla - lots of people just watching he airport actions
    Lots of shops I’d like to explore on the way down too.
    So we found out very early on Lucy sucks at climbing down stairs. She has to hold a porters hand every time. I love it cause it gives me time to take a break while waiting for her. Haha

    Lots of cute kids on the way. Anita and George brought gifts for them which they gave out occasionally. Bloody Anita is a ridiculous human; A) she is just not too bright to be perfectly honest but
    B) has packed her bags with a years worth of stuff. She was offloading shit to people all day - including the kids to get rid of some of the weight. 😅
    I’m split down the middle with SHUT THE FUCK UP and having a giggle cause she can be funny.

    We crossed lots of bridges on the way over wonderful rapid water.

    We had many toilet stops. So far mainly proper toilets. It’s still BYO toilet paper though.

    Will likes ringing the bells along the way. We alway seem to walk on the left side of a monument. Not sure why.

    George has a bad stomach all day and was in real trouble. He really struggled.

    We stopped for lunch and I had the most delicious chips of my life. Literally just plucked from the ground. Incredible.

    There are so many stunning creeks and hundreds of waterfalls nearby and in the distance.

    There hasn’t been much rubbish along the way. Good job everyone. I expect it’s going to get a lot worse the higher we go.

    OK SO THE SHERPAS ARS RIDICULOUS.
    They carry these ridiculous 100kg loads all day.
    Not human.
    Often carrying only essentials: beer. 😂

    We walked past kids smashing rocks with hammers. I thought that was a great game lol.
    It started raining along the way so we all bothered to put out water gear on so naturally it stopped within 20 seconds.
    I overheated very quickly and had to take the heat back off.

    Today was such a long walk holy cow. It all sort of starts blending into one and the order of things gets blurred.

    We stopped for tea somewhere near to a waterfall and had a snack break cause we all had low sugar levels.
    This is when our yaks past us. Bless them. Apparently they work 3 days then they get 3 days wild in the jungle. Love it.

    We had dinner together - all food and hot beverages are paid for. Cold drinks no.
    We then went and got ready for the next day - supposedly the hardest day.
    Took me like 1.5 hours to organise my bag and I made a mess of the room cause my water bladder leaked everywhere.

    All in all a great first day.
    Bloody knackered.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Kathmandu

    6. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Today we went on a day trip to Bhaktapur which is one of the royal areas I believe.
    Struggling HARD with the Nepalese accent 😓
    So to cut the story short totally not worth the money. 1500 rupees each to enter and $25USD for the tour guide and bus.
    The guide was not good and was on a fucking mission. No real time to stop and actually look.

    It was just a city.

    The highlights of the tour (we went with Lucy and George) were seeing the tallest temple of Nepal, all the small children coming up and saying Namaste, seeing where the royal family took baths, and seeing how local craft is made. We went to a wood making shop (like fancy chests and stuff) , paint shop and watched ladies making pottery.
    We also saw the inside of some Hindu temple. Some fancy shit, you couldn’t take photos, and it had armed guards. You couldn’t enter if not Hindu. We could look through the door though.
    A lot of this city (was a city more than anything) was dilapidated. It had spots of complete beauty though.
    Saw a cool well full of green plants.

    I find it bemusing that the children all dress so smartly in school uniforms yet live in a shit hole.
    It doesn’t match.

    After the tour we had lunch at a rooftop bar. Had a great time and lots of laughs!

    George bought a ridiculous Nepalese hat and wore it all day lol he also INSISTS on speaking Nepalese but I’m 99% he says it wrong cause they dont seem to understand or they laugh.

    We went home and had a nap.

    Had our team meeting. Really like everyone.
    We have Tom, Helen, Anita, George and Lucy.

    We got given all the gear we hired - 1 sleeping bag, walking poles, down jackets and sleep mattress things.

    We also got an Ian Taylor trekking hat.

    I hate my fucking duffel bag. It’s a total cunt 😂
    Can’t fit shit cause I got stuff in packing cubes which I swear by but in this situation it’s not workin so good. 😅 Need help closing my bag every-time. 😪
    Got to bed late - like 10:30. Supper stressed cause it’s a 4:15 start.
    Big day tomorrow!    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Kathmandu

    5. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Slept wonderfully and deeply.
    Will didn’t poor bugger so he was still shattered.
    Went down to the cafe downstairs to meet some people only it would seem Nepali time is similar to African time. After waiting a bit in walked the dude from last night who’s name I can’t say for the life of me and his wife, Kay - Scottish lady who is our medical liaison person. So she isn’t coming trekking with us but will man the phone and organise the rescue helicopters etc.
    We then met George - American who seems nice and later his I think Wife, Lucy arrived.
    Originally I thought she might be his daughter but then apparently it’s her birthday today and she is 49. Unsure if true or not. Will investigate.
    Lucy is a crack pot. Big fan. LOUUUUUD. She will Make the trek fun. We chatted for about 1.5 hours discussing nothing of real importance then we said bye and for on our way. We are all gonna do a day trip tomorrow so have to be ready by 9am again 🙄

    We headed towards the monkey temple known as Swayambhuna. The roads are mental. But it’s organized chaos? They have a system.
    If half a road is clear then you cross and wait for the next half to clear then cross that.
    You don’t wait for clear passage from both way - you will wait forever.
    The streets are super fun lol.
    People darting everywhere, carrying ridiculous loads of stuff.
    Dogs are everywhere but they are either asleep (great so I don’t have to ignore them) or happy with their friends.
    Lots of shops which I shall visit later 😬😬🤗🤗

    Took the most random path but eventually found it.
    Or rather the staircase with 70000 stairs leading up to the temple.

    Killed me 😂
    I wasn’t tired but my heart was racing. Altitude is fun lol.
    Cool Buddha statues along the way.

    Monkeys Were darting about - the babies are very cute.

    It was 200 rupees each - got a ticket for my book - thrilled lol.

    The views were lovely.
    2 people wanted pictures with us?

    I like the eyes on the white dome thing. Got told names of things but honestly, they talk like you have prior knowledge so it’s not helpful.

    The Nepalese people are pests. Will got himself into a tour guide situation. Idiot. I walked away from the chat a lot but Will didn’t get the message so on tour we went 🙄

    The guy did not get the hint to GET THE FUCK OUT OF MY PHOTOGRAPHS.
    Trying to take photos and he does move?

    He took us into some hidey hole with stone Buddha shit and went through the 5 somethings
    He was very animated and imitated them all.
    When he got the meditation he closed his eyes and sat there for a whole minute.
    Me and Will were doing shifty eyes at each other - hilarious.
    He showed us the different element shrines. Is water, fire, wind, earth etc

    I got to ring a bell and we both spun the twisty bell things.

    He gave us Buddha’s history. What a load of crap.
    Apparently didn’t eat for 6 years.
    Lies lol.
    Be different if he was claiming to be a God but he wasn’t.. just a dude you know?
    Some other lady in some story had 500 babies.
    Me don’t thinks so.

    He took us to a lovely painting shop where we got given a look and info on all the painting types. Didn tip ha ha. Fuckerssss.
    I would go back and buy from there if it wasn’t for the stairs though hahah

    I gave our guy a Outfuckingragous tip. $40 or something. Bad conversation maths by me and pressure ha.

    🤦🏼‍♀️

    We walked back down the monster staircase and Will used what he claims is the most disgusting toilet of his life. Big call. 200 years worth of unwiped urine.

    We walked to Dunbar square. Dunbar means royal.
    Has a big ass palace. Not overly fancy looking, I think the temples are nicer - just a big white building really. We saw a rooftop cafe and walked up to have a drink and get a view of the area.
    There is a crap tone of construction going on because of the 2015 earthquake which destroyed so so much. So there was lots of scaffold everywhere.
    Safety standards are non existent 😂 they just be balancing on a pole 😂

    We had some fried rice which we learned they eat with tomato sauce here.

    There were school children playing in the square which was nice to watch. The kids all wear school uniforms which doesn’t match the derelict city.

    There were 2 random cows literally lying down like dogs in the square. Just chilling. Living their best life.

    Lots of temples. They all look the same but are all beautiful. A lot of intricate detailing.

    Some shrine monster dude super cute. Loved him.

    People pretending to be tour guides are such PESTS.

    We walked home and had an amazing nap.

    So tired.

    We went out to dinner and I didn’t really like the food but I haven’t been that hungry so didn’t bother me lol. Nice just watching the city.
    Had a sign coming up though “probably the best steak in Kathmandu” 😂😂
    Honesty.

    And back to bed ❤️    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseEBCReisende

    Transit

    4. september 2019, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Our Uber driver, Mr Trevor Dowse picked us up at 7am.
    House is spotless in case there is an inspection when we are away. We even did a shitty wipe up job on the mould.

    Toot toot and off we went. Traffic wasn’t fab but it wasn’t bad either. Dad is such a stress driver when he is unsure of a route/ needs to change lanes. Driving a manual car does not help. He is literally unable to talk and concentrate on the road.

    He dropped us off, bless him ❤️
    We got there super early cause we planned to ask for seats with leg room if available. Checked in but FORGOT. 🤦🏼‍♀️
    Will does at least have an isle seat.

    Some background info:
    Will has a ruptured and bulging disk in his back.
    He had great nerve pain and has troubles sitting.
    So naturally we have decided to climb a mountain 🙄🙄 ...
    he has a lot of drugs so we will see how he fairs but it’s why we extra wanted him to have a good seat. We looked at getting him a business class seat but it was too late and prices were outrageous
    Anywho, too late now.

    We went and had a healthy Hungry Jack’s breakfast and then went through customs.
    I was hear 2 weeks ago and the amount of change/renovation is impressive. Well done Sydney.

    Just had a look around the shops but it’s all fashion shops like Burberry, Chanel etc.
    sorry, don’t have a spare $7,500.

    Went to our gate on the other side of the airport and waited.
    Some chick was hardcore crying.
    Was speaking an Asian language so I couldn’t listen in. Super bummed.

    We started taking our diamox tablets for altitude sickness this morning and it is making us need to pee!

    Onto the plane.
    Nice plane. Very new and fancy.
    Biggg plane though. I don’t like big planes, harder to get off the ground 😅

    So far we have been flying 2 hours and I have watched some Big Bang theory :)

    2 hours to go.
    I watched Graham Norton and am about to start family guy.
    So with graham norton their was only one episode available but it was an episode where graham was away....?
    Guest host did a great job but what an odd choice for the only episode?

    Wills back is holding out. I have Endone for him to take but he has been fine so far which is a great sign 🎉

    Got given a almond magnum for dessert after our lunch. Big fan.
    Except i spills some on my new tights, it melted between my legs and it looks like I have shit on me.

    Need to peeeeeee. Just went though 😂
    Glad I bought my shewee.

    People around me must think I have a problem.
    I reckon I’m at 6 or 7 times.

    Landed smoothly.

    Change airport is HUGE - we had to get a tram though to our terminal - we got to go past the rainforest and hectic waterfall - grossly unnecessary and yet brilliant and all airports should do. Very calming in all the hussle bussel.

    According to their map. There are 4 terminals but just looking at terminal 1 it takes 29minutes to walk from one end to the other.

    Biggggg airport.
    The carpet is an odd choice. It’s like pub carpet almost but less colorful.
    Keen to explore Singapore on the way back.

    To get into our gate longe we went through a quick security thing (only security check - they didn’t scan us to have us enter the airport off the plane)
    Most intrusive pat down I can recall. Got right in between my boobs.

    So the People flying to Nepal were either Nepalese, elderly couples ticking off their buckets list items or genie pant wearing, yoga doing hipsters with nose piercings.

    A pilot, very possible ours rushed through the gate lounge at 6:55 - the time we were meant to depart..

    Boarded about 35 mins late.

    We are flying with silk air - a partner of Singapore airlines it would seem.
    Seats are tiny and no in flight entertainment - boo.
    But! I asked if it was a full flight and the flight attendant said no and put us in exit row seats - after a lovely lady swapped with me we were next to each other.
    At least Will fits.

    As we are flying over Singapore there is far less light that I expected. Not bright at all.
    4.5 hours to go.

    Having another wee emergency. Sigh. Lol

    Ok so I’ve made a booboo.
    Was just deleting photos in my phone and up comes a print screen of our trek itinerary which says we actually start trekking on the 7th, not 6th.
    Now the “tour” actually starts from the 6th which is why I got confused - but instead of that meaning we hike thy day it means we have a team meeting in the evening that day. Sooo looks like we will be in Kathmandu an extra day.
    Hardly a major issue. Privately delighted hahah.
    Hopefully my accommodation reservation covers this day 😅😅😅

    We are currently hovering above the airport.
    Congestion issue so we have to wait 15 mins. Will is done 😂
    He has done so well though!

    My eyes hurts, slightly dizzy, not hungry yet also hungry and small headache.

    Hopefully just a result of long day flying.

    Finally landed and got off the plane onto a bus that took us 40m.

    OK SO CUSTOMS IS FUCKED.
    The most ridiculous immigration I’ve yet encountered.

    So apart from everyone knowing where to go and is changing lines 5 times we finally got the order right.

    First you go to kiosk.
    Technology from the 80’s. Takes 10 minutes per person to type their name in.
    Total waste of my life.

    We were told to bring passport photos - spent $58 cause we didn’t know what size.. didn’t even use them 🙄🙄🙄🙄
    Anywho, the next line was to pay for the visa. $50 USD each for 30 day entry.

    Next line was to get through.
    I like the sticker visa they gave us.

    Dude was like “is this you?”
    If it was a fake passport, is anyone really gonna say yes?

    Getting our bags was a maze and then to our relief (stressed he would leave cause we were 2 hours late) our pick up person was waiting for us.
    He gave us neck wrap things.
    And got us our ride.

    Hotel is lovely. Too tired to function at this point.

    Nepal reminds me
    Of Cambodia cross South Africa.

    BEDTIME 😭😭😭😭😍😍😍😍😍    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
  • Angharad DowseHawaiiReisende

    Day 8

    26. august 2019, Forente stater ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    So Sonali didn’t come home.
    Little concerned so I messaged her if she was alive at 10.
    Sends back she is fine, currently in a bed and the people in the bed next to here are fucking.
    Sent through some great video footage.
    Holy hell.

    I went to IHOP by myself.
    I have mozzie bites on the back of my legs and they are killing me.
    Not enough staff working.
    Food was poorly presented but edible.
    IHOP ✔️✔️

    Then went to Victoria’s secret. Some nice stuff but nothing I HAD TO HAVE.
    The ones I liked the most didn’t have my size anyway.

    Went back to the markets and bought some shitty jewelry. I think managed my impulses quite aa well. Only spent $24 all up.
    Also got my magnet.

    Wandered in and out of other beach shops along the Main Street.

    Bought some shaved ice finally. Delicious!

    Back home now. Sonali passed out in bed.

    Had a 3 hour nap - heh.
    Woke up at 3 and got ready to do the Diamond head hike.
    Have been putting it off because of my sunburn but it’s slowly getting better and isn’t unbearable to be in sunlight anymore.

    Used the hotel WiFi to order an Uber.
    He was actually lovely and didn’t make me sit up the front next to him which made me more comfortable.
    He had a big tips jar though which made me uncomfortable.
    He was nice though so I gave him $3 lol

    The ride took 20 mins.

    It cost $1 to enter the park.

    I ate at the food stand before getting underway though.
    They have to put either a flower or pineapple with everything. I had a hotdog with chips. Came with both.

    The walk was beautiful. I was concerned at first cause everyone was overtaking me and I was actually kinda struggling in the heat but that lasted all of 4 minutes. Once I got in the groove I was totally fine. Wasn’t really challenging at all.
    It was a very slow but constant incline.
    Had some fire points along the way.
    The stair section was a killer but lead into a cave bit which meant some welcomed shade.

    Finally made it and it was a great view.
    Very pleased to have done it. Glad to have done it alone so I could go my own pace.
    Great day.
    The volcano crater was also cool to see.

    Some interesting outfit choices along the way.
    Some dude was in long jeans, a long sleeved business shirt and tie.

    The ride home was fucked.
    Cause no WiFi has to get a taxi.
    I am completely positive my driver is a serial killer.
    First of all he has the wacky eyes that look 2 different directions and he was really dirty. His face as clothes were filthy.
    His right ear and side of face was covered in medical tape too.

    He also didn’t talk.
    Well he did, but it was so mumbled I couldn’t hear him.
    One time I questioned him and he repeated in the creepiest fucking voice

    I know a real nice secluded spot with a nice view I can show you

    Fuck no

    Alarm bells.

    Got out of the taxi at the zoo.
    Found some WiFi and ordered an Uber.
    I had genuine panic and escape plans in my head.
    Terrified.

    Uber driver was great. Big fan of registered driver they can trace if I disappear 😅😅😅😅

    When home we all went to PF Chang’s for dinner again. Love the lettuce cup shit.

    I finally bought my shirt from Crazy shirts. It literally took me 30 mins to decide but I’m super happy with my choice.

    Once home and I had a strong impulse to go back out and get my souvenir shopping done.

    ABC stores are everywhere. Great stores. Got everything lol.
    Bought me some more peanut butter cups, a shirt, shot glasses and a tiki mug.
    Please with what i found.

    Packed up my bag and hit the hay.

    Day 9.

    Sonali was on a different flight so she was gone by the time I woke up.
    No need to make a proper update about the day but a few things worth mentioning happened.

    Glad I packed last night. Exhausted lol.

    Glad to be going home. More so sick of the company 😂 I miss Will. I miss being able to say anything I want with out judgement. 🙄
    Big ol lefties the lot of them hahaha

    The airport is fucked. Such bad signage and little organisation but the best part of my day was...

    Security was doing the usual announcements
    “Take put your electronics. Take out your laptops an kindles” blah blah blah.

    A person tried to get through with a small OVEN in their backpack.

    Security guard “I suppose it’s not their fault... I didn’t specify for people to take out their ovens”

    He was in hysterics. Never happened to him before.

    WHO HAS AN OVEN IN THEIR HAND LUGGAGE.

    It was fantastic 😂😂😂😂

    Flight was shit. Super random though. I had an empty chair next to me for the first hour. Then some dude with a name tag who worked for the airport - was working on his laptop about plane stuff - sat next to me for the next 8.

    Then with 1.5 hours to go. He packed up his stuff, goes “time to go” and left and went back up to the front of the plane.
    What.

    If you already had a seat..?

    He also had a nap so like, was he working or not???

    So weird.

    Great trip.    Les mer

  • Angharad DowseHawaiiReisende

    Day 7

    24. august 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We were tired.
    Had a Only little bit of the hotel breakfast (cereal and fruit) but pleased to have at least something in my tum.

    We had a bit of panic about the bus.
    A bus from the same company pulled up in front of our hotel and so we asked if it was going to Pearl Harbour - he said no and that all buses depart from the depot a bit down the street.
    So then we were stuck not knowing where the correct spot was.
    I was also stressed cause Sonali didn’t actually have the tickets so I was worried they might be like “your not on the list” and we wouldn’t be able to prove it kinda thing.

    All ended up being fine - the bus showed up at our hotel.
    It was about a 30 min drive away. We were so tired.
    Got there and got given tickets.
    We got free range to look in and out of 2 museum sections. It’s all very one sided information. Lol classic America.
    I found the videos interviewing survivors fascinating.

    We were led into a movie theatre for the 10:30 session.
    Movie went for about 20-30 mins.
    Loved it, found it very interesting. It had real footage of the attack.

    I liked that they also had plaques listing the survivors names. Although alive those people suffered terribly too.

    After the film we were put on a boat.

    The U.S.S Arizona memorial is a floating wharf type thing where you stand and view the sunken Arizona was ship.
    1170* men died on boat.
    900 of the men are still on the boat.

    It’s a graveyard.
    I found this very powerful.
    The soldiers were there with us.

    The survivors have the options to elect to have their body returned to the ship when dead.
    40 have done so.

    The audio tour was included as the memorial was closed and we weren’t able to dock on the wharf.

    It’s been closed got ages so naturally it opens in 2 weeks 🙄

    Still, could see parts.
    Please with the tour. So was Sonali.

    The anchor of the Arizona was also on display.

    It’s weird to acknowledge these events took place in the spot you are standing.

    The gift shop was outrageously inappropriate.
    It had Christmas ornaments...

    Postcards of ships blowing up

    “Props” little plane toys

    Idk. People died here. Bookstore is fine, even a magnet if your a bit twisted but novelty toys is fucked.
    Imagine if Auschwitz had prison striped pajama sets for sale.

    The free time allowed by the tour company we chose ( the service was really just transportation there and back) wasn’t long enough. Another 30-40 mins would have been great to defuse the stress to hurry and not properly read everything.

    On our way home we drove through downtown which was actually a very nice area. A very livable and vibrant area away from most tourists.

    We got home and crashed out for 3 hours.

    Sonali went to the beach but I’m doing my best effort to avoid sun so I stayed home and had a bath (swim - tub is huge)

    I then had another hour nap hehe

    We all went to hooters for dinner.
    Our Uber was a Tesla.
    Didn’t have a dashboard, just a bit iPad thing.
    I liked the driver too. He though we (Pierce) was funny.
    He dropped us and in we went. We were worried about it being a Saturday night and would be packed.
    HA.
    Basically empty.
    Service was phenomenal.
    I couldn’t be that bad if I tried.

    Lass forgot everything.
    Everyone had their own separate saga but mine was:
    Ordered wings
    Did not receive wings
    Was charged for wings and sauce
    We complained
    Wing removed from bill, not sauce
    We paid for sauce as was getting too hard
    She gave me the wings in a takeaway box anyway.
    They were stone cold AND the dip (incorrect dip to the type of dip I ordered) had spilt throughout the box

    Sonali kept getting 1.5 cups of pina colada because they kept on making the incorrect amount.
    “Don’t know why this keeps happening..?.......”
    🤦🏼‍♀️

    Home now and Sonali has gone out. I feel bad for ditching but I’m just so awkward. I will ruin her night if I go. It’s better for her.
    I’m also super tired and will pull her down.
    Hope she is having a good time lol.

    Im watching forensic files.
    The tv ads are fucked. It’s all about medical disease awareness.
    Do you have these symptoms? Well you might be dying.
    Only 1 in 673929458839293748 people get this disease IT COULD BE YOU!
    Don’t forget to tell your doctor about your rectal bleeding.
    Blah blah blah.

    It’s intense. I have 27 different super rare conditions.

    Have I mentioned here it’s advertised everywhere that the recommended daily intake is 2000 calories? This place is cracked.    Les mer

  • Angharad DowseHawaiiReisende

    Day 6

    23. august 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Me and Sonali woke up at 5am to try get in early to book a pearl harbour cruise for 8:45am that day.
    They were full so we went back to bed haha - going tomorrow instead.

    We went to the same resturant as dinner last night so Sonali could have some more of their clam chowder. Our waiter was so bouncy. Its the first time I didn’t feel aggressive about leaving a tip.
    I got some pizza/soup deal. Was tasty.

    I went back to the hotel to chill for a bit before we all (Jo, Pierce and Sonali) headed to the Waikiki aquarium. Caught an Uber even though it’s only 3km. Too hot for that shit. My earlobes are sweating.
    $12 to enter which I reckon is more than reasonable.
    They had some great displays.
    Lots of fluro colored fish and bright reefs.
    I bloody love seahorses.
    Favourite animal was an octopus though. He was a total cranky puss. Kept on charging at the glass trying to attack Sonali.
    I love their sucker feet.

    If I ever win the lottery, my first order of business is to buy a house and install a big ass aquarium wall.

    There was an outside section so their was a sunscreen stand. Crappy honey textured sunscreen. 😭 so thick it won’t rub in. 😭

    Their was a seal having a jolly swim.
    Small aquarium but I still really enjoyed it!

    We got an Uber to a bar near the beach.
    Happy hour time 🎉
    We ordered mango daiquiris for $5 and they were delicious! I couldn’t taste the alcohol!

    We played big 2 to pass a couple hours.
    It was a great afternoon.

    We then headed next door to do a twilight tour at the zoo - cost $20 so I thought sure why not.

    Our guide was wearing leopards print leggings and clown shoes.
    We had a miscommunication over the word frangipani. He called the tree a plumeria tree and told us to stand under it.
    Looking at us like we retarded cause we didn’t know which tree.

    So tour was shit but the others didn’t seem to think it was that bad?
    I’m more disappointed than anything. I want to learn things but how can I expect a super in depth tour when half the American people on tour are supposed a lion eats meat. 🙄🤦🏼‍♀️
    Also our guide was wrong on several occasions on being saying the lion was chuffing.
    Only tigers and snow/clouded leopards chuff.
    If I know this he should know this.

    I’d say 1/4 of the enclosures were closed which was lame. It also the guide kept skipping animals.
    We also stood around a lot. If we had walked and talked we couldn’t have seen everything.
    He also only showed the big show animals like lions and hippo - but skipped the porcupines and warthogs.

    Just really irked by the quality.

    I know I talk about Europe too much and it annoys people but it’s so hard not too. It has shaped my opinion on many many things and apart of the norm is to explain why you have an opinion - so often Europe related and I want to put my head in the dirt
    BUT MAN having been on a lotttttt of tours. Quality was POOR. 😂

    Went home to shower then we all went out for Chinese.
    Dickhead house keeping only made up Sonali’s bed.

    Loved the bow chow Min** the lettuce thing
    And the friend rice but the Mongolian beef was disappointing!

    Had a great time at the hotel alone watching tv and sampling peanut butter cups, beef jerky and lollies.

    Got a great night sleep for a change.    Les mer

  • Angharad DowseHawaiiReisende

    Day 5

    22. august 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Sunburn is baaaaaaaaad.

    Walked to the turtle meet point - names were on the list today - phew!
    We didn’t put sunscreen on cause they said they had some special reef safe sunscreen so we were trying to avoid the sun as much as possible before getting on the boat.
    Fucking hate this sand.
    HURTS MY FOOTSIES.

    Got on the boat. They drove out a little bit (not too far) to turtle canyon. They gave us our gear and in we went.
    Lots of turtle! 🤗🤗🤗
    Saw at least 10 and got quite close to one cause it came up to have a breath. I love their heads. And eye shape.
    Saw lots of fishies too.

    Then went on a boat ride. Bumpy AF. Got drenched and Jo vomitted.
    They gave her a bucket just in time. lol
    It was promoted as dolphin spotting but it was way too choppy.

    So the sunscreen they gave us was so thick and disgusting AND DID NOT WORK.
    I am red raw! Sunburn on top of sunburn - send help. 😭😭😭😭

    Me Jo and Pierce then went to the Cheesecake Factory for lunch. So busy and the menu was like 100 pages.
    Jo got some cheesecake at the end. They had a solid 50 flavors to chose from.

    We had dinner as group minus Pierce cause he has a sore back and potentially infected ear (had water stuck since day 1)
    We went to a nice resturant where we played trivia games on the tablet on the table.
    NEK MINUTE they charge us $2 at the end for playing.
    I wasn’t hungry cause we ate late so I just had a tiny salad and cup of soup cause I knew if I didn’t eat I’d regret it later.
    We walked in and out of shops on our way home - they have 1 million M&M flavors including jalapeños.
    When back we headed to the Beverley’s apartment for a quick stop to say bye as they fly home tomorrow.

    I am so sore. Can’t move without pain. It was a shirts off evening in our room. Didn’t care. Tits flying everywhere.
    Sonali helped me by putting cold towels on my back and when I got up to pee I felt them and I had actually heated them up.

    Dumb American quote.
    *people walking past hawaiian Christmas ornament shop*
    “Oh! Do they have Christmas in Hawaii ???”
    Fuck me.
    Yes you fuckwit.    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseHawaiiReisende

    Day 4

    21. august 2019, Forente stater ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Sonali had a terrific night. Found herself husband No. 43.
    I left her in bed and went with Jo and Pierce to the beach for our turtle tour, only Jo accidentally booked it for tomorrow. Alas!

    We decided to try find Cathy and Kate who rumor had it were already at the beach.
    Couldn’t find them and I was getting cranky cause the sand was so thick it wouldn’t fit through a sieve.
    Lots of rocks. I also popped a blister and it was really ouchy.
    Went back & collected Sonali, I put on bandaids, And put on sunscreen when the Beverley’s suddenly appeared so we all went for lunch together at the beach bar. I didn’t eat anything cause I threw back a Big Mac before the turtle tour thinking it would invite sea sickness if I had an empty stomach on a boat.
    I loved the cocktails I had though.

    The famous beach and backdrop was beautiful. (Waikiki beach)
    Fav part of Hawaii so far.
    After lunch Sonali, Jo and I went for a swim in the water. The temperature was lovely. Sand was better at this section but still not as good as ours.
    Bloody hate sand 🙄
    Loved the waves and really tried to make myself take in where I was and the beautiful spot I was in.
    I’m very blessed.

    Had a quick lie on the towel to dry before we then went walking around.
    We found a Nat Geo art gallery which had some fantastic pieces. What an amazing job to have. You’d go bonkers waiting around for the perfect shot but man, seeing animals in the wild continuously would be splendid.
    Pity I can barley work an iPhone camera.

    We then wandered into some markets.
    Crazy Asian ladies were running the stores with the standard I give you discount “just for you” crap.
    We were still wet so they wouldn’t let us try on the clothes so we went home to shower and change the went back. We bought a dress each and I bought a hat for Will cause I lost his last one.
    I also bought myself a hat earlier in the day.
    Fucking the stupidest shit. Price tag says $10 get to the counter and it’s $10.50.
    Why they any just include the tax ahead of time is beyond me.
    We went back to get ready to go to hard rock for dinner. KEEN.

    It was good but was still probably the worst one ive been to.
    Not enough blue cheese with my wings.
    I chose to go back to the hotel afterwards - Sonali, Scott and Cathy went drinking.

    FaceTimed Will. Miss him.

    Bed.
    TURTLES TOMORROW 🤗

    Also got super sunburnt today 😭🙄😅    Les mer

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  • Angharad DowseHawaiiReisende

    Day 3

    20. august 2019, Forente stater ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Had to check out by 11. We walked down to have brunch in town.

    Everyone suggested this crowded fish place. Yuck. Horrified.
    Me and Jo were miserable but to weak to speak 😂
    Easier to keep the peace.
    So I had some corn chips.

    I wanted a magnet from both the islands we will visit so I looked for a Maui one - couldn’t any that said Maui that I loved so I went with a hula girl cause i can’t imagine I’ll see much if any in Honolulu so it will remain a uniquely Maui experience.
    It was stupidly humid so we went to sit in a park. The trees were fucked. I don’t understand.
    They joined at the branched ( drawing example in other journal)
    Cathy and Scott were on a different plane so they headed to the airport before us - the rest of us went and played cards at a Resturant under their fans. 🤗
    We played big 2.
    Pierce taught everyone but he plays differently to me but close enough. I prefer my version cause you don’t have to remove as much, you just have to copy.
    We all won some games. Kate was so confused though and tried to play like 10 cards at once - they were all in order ie 5,6,7,8,9,10,J,Q,K 😂😂😂

    We then walked back to the hotel to get our bags as get an Uber to the airport. Uber dude got lost and time was getting on but we made it with plenty to spare.
    Before this though I found a cat and gave it pats. A real highlight.

    Maui is ugly lol.
    Apart from the coast line the island looks like Tamworth.

    America is so serious about security!
    When doing the bag scans every single person also has to do the 3 second body scan inside the machine which takes serious time. Lucky the line was short.
    Gotta take shoes off too.
    Smelt like feet.

    The plane ride was quick but I did not like our landing. Came in fucking sidewards and bounced off the runway. My stomach dropped and I had a panic flutter and grabbed the seat in front.
    Main point is didn’t die. 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻

    It was an unexpectedly long car ride to the hotel. Granted lots of traffic but still longer than I thought.
    A lot of the neighborhoods looked like scenes taken straight from forensic files. Poor families in concrete community housing with kids playing ball games behind fences.
    Not the usual advertised “look” of Hawaii.

    Checked in to the hotel and had a look around. Our pool is crap. Gutted. That was my only request. Sonali is gutted there isn’t a bar but there is one a few doors down so that’s something.
    Our room is great. Very spacious.
    People wanted showers before dinner so that was done then off we went.
    We tried a few places but the lines were outrageous. The Cheesecake Factory line was over and hour. It was more like a palace than a dinner. Nothing like on Big Bang theory.
    We ended up at some pizza place.
    Good food. Good company.
    Me and Jo were starving and getting super shitty so I would rate highly almost anything given to me at that point.
    #bestfoodever.

    Was gonna go to Walmart with Jo and Pierce but the Uber site was being a dick so I just went home. They bought me some peanut butter cups though 😬😬🤗🤗
    Went to their room to collect them and booked a turtle snorkeling tour for tomorrow.

    I FaceTimed Will and caught up on written journal.
    Sonali was bored so she went out. She got home at like 5:30am.
    Crazy lady. She had a good night though 🙃    Les mer

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