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6 travelers at this place

  • Day45

    Trekking with a missionary

    April 24, 2019 in India ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The two following days have been busy solving my paper issues. After leaving my bicycle to Rohit in Jorethang, I took a jeep to Yuksom, the former capital of Sikkim, from where i was hoping to start the trek (a 8 to 9 days expedition that would allow me to catch a last glimpse of the Himalayas before pursuing east !).
    I was soon stopped : without the first permit I was not given when entering Sikkim - the inner-land permit, I could not get the second one - the trekking permit. I also found out that it was impossible to go on my own without a guide...

    Sikkim might be heaven for birds, trees, rhododendrons and... snow leopards, it is not always so for the uninformed foreign tourist ! And its special status (due to its late attachment to India, with the end of the monarchy in 1975, it has been granted more autonomy and is ruled by a special "act", like Jammu & Cashmere) just seems to create more administrative-hassle than in other parts of India...

    So... At 5 pm i started looking for a travel agency and met a very gentle and helpful man : Birendra Ray, who helped me sort everything out. He first took me to Pelling, where I needed to get some cash (Yuksom being the ancient capital does not mean that it has an ATM..). He also invited me to his home for a nice potato & chapati snack, made me visit one of his schools and showed me around (an old monastery, a giant Buddha statue...)

    Just like for my previous guide in Nepal, I have to write a few words about Birendra, who is quite an original and enriching person. Aside from being a guide (he only helps his "brother"- a guy from his village - at the traveling agency) , he is a maths teacher and the founder of 4 non-profit private schools, where orphans can enroll for very low fees. He is also a former theology student and "missionary" : he traveled around India for 8 years "preaching the gospel". This job actually seemed to require both analytical and surveying skills, since the missionaries would collect data from the villages, and according to the demographics and religious trends, set up targeted interviews and speeches. But how and why does a sikimese hindu man become a missionary...? When in his 20s, Birendra read the New Testament and was amazed at it (he quotes me specifically Lazarus' raising from the dead). He then had the courage (and strange idea?) to convert to Christianity, against his parents' will. When he told them about his new faith (and tried to convert them), he was expelled from home and had to take care about himself. In the end, the guy was convincing enough to convert his very young wife, a 17 year old girl he met in a village, even though she was a Lepsha, that is to say one of the 4 most ancient and respected tribes of Sikkim (usually referred to as "Lho, Mon, Tsong": "Lho" are the Bhutias from southern Tibet, "Mon" the Lepchas" from the lower eastern Himalayas and "Tsong" the Limbus. Apart from these "high-ranking" people, who still enjoy special privileges nowadays, Nepali communities stand for 60% of the Sikkimese. Birendra belongs to them !) End of the digression in the digression.

    Since then on, Birendra stopped being a missionary and dedicated himself to education and social welfare. He now dreams of opening his own travel agency in order to raise money that could be reinvested in his schools and in an orphanage. He wrote his ideas on social activities and education in two books, in Nepali and English. Busy man ! His story reminds me of how entrepreneur-minded Nepali and Indian people can be ! I am impressed. End of the digression...

    Anyway. His generosity found an opportunity to be embedded with my case... He spent lots of time and energy negotiating with another "brother" to get me the inner-line permit from Gangtok and eventually, because he could not find a guide, offered to go with me... At a very interesting price.

    The following morning, we negotiated hard at the police outpost and at the Kanchenjunga national park office. When at the police station i could see that the situation was becoming desperate and that the stern officer was just telling Birendra to go f*"' himself, I silently jumped into the conversation and gave the policeman my best naive and "ow, that's so sad, what am I gonna do with myself?" look... Five minute later, my passport was stamped and the guy let us in ! :)) Birendra still had to write a letter saying that he was taking full responsibility for me, and was not very pleased about that... But overall, we made a good team ! And that's how the trek started !!
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  • Day93


    April 16, 2016 in India ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    אחרי שניסיתי להגיע לפאלינג ללא הצלחה מצאתי את את עצמי ביאקסום , מקום נחמד עם מקדשים והרבה טראקרים באמצע סיקים , אני אשאר פה עוד קצת נראה לי

  • Day95

    אינטרנט, סלולרי, נאפאל ופסח שמח

    April 18, 2016 in India ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    המספר שלי השתנה ל 8145454303, בשבועות הקרובים אני אעבור לנאפאל ומתכנן לחצות ממזרח למערב אל אוטרקאנד בהודו, אני אצטייד בסים נאפאלי לדאטה ושיחות ואעדכן בהתאם, עד אז שיהיה פסח שמח לכולם.

  • Day100

    ליל הסדר ביוקסאם

    April 23, 2016 in India ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    מסתבר שהיו פה 18 ישראלים בסדר לעניין

  • Day12


    November 17, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Erster richtiger Ruhetag nach 10 Tagen in Indien. Kleiner Spaziergang im Nationalpark natürlich nicht ausgeschlossen.

  • Day16

    Offline wegen Hochgebirge

    November 21, 2019 in India ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Ab morgen für eine Woche oder so nicht erreichbar. Liebe Grüße an alle.

  • Day24

    Abschied von Yuksom

    November 29, 2019 in India ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Morgen ist Abreise

  • Day19

    Gebirgswanderung Teil 2

    November 24, 2019 in India ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Nochmal 1000 Meter höher

  • Day39

    120 Kilometer i 15 Stung

    October 10, 2018 in India ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Mir si üs ja scho einiges gwöhnt a aasträngende Reisetäg. Aber was mr geschter erläbt hei isch no ds Tüppfli uf ds I gsi. Hie im Norde isches ghögerig u bugglig. U so si ou d Strasse. Sit dr Fahrt vo Bagdogra nach Klimpong u vo dert nach Darjeeling si mir mit houperigem Uf und Ab, änge Kurve u durendem Huupe vertrout. Aber Geschter…uff..i ha ja süsch fröid uf wiudem Terrain z fahre aber so nach 5 h….föh mr vorne aa.
    Geschter hei mir üses Sii vo Darjeeling nach Sikkim besser gseit nach Yuksom verschobe. Wow, Sikkim! Es uraute Königrich, es buddhistisches Heiligtum! Me brucht es Speziau-Visum um dert ine z cho. Das wunderbare Fläckli Ärde ligt haut nach am Konfliktherd Tibet / China. Vorusschouend wie mir Schwizer si, hei mir das Visum scho in Bärn organisiert. Bim Iireise bruchts aber de ä Stämpu wo bestätigt, das die bewilligte 15Täg itz aafö. Eigentlech wärs nid so wit vo Darjeeling nach Yuksom aber wüu zwüsche Sikkim und Westbengale e aagspannti Stimmig herrscht isch dr entscheidend Checkpoint sit churzer Zit gschlosse. Kes Problem, mir gö übere anger Checkpoint in Melli ine, Umwäg vo lächerleche 40km..hei mr gmeint.
    D Fahrt vom westbengalische Darjeeling is sikkimische Yuksom geit houptsächlech am Teesta-River entlang. E wunderbar wiude Fluss wo sich vom Himalaya dürab, dür steili, tschungu-bedeckti Bärge u Hügu schlänglet. Ds Klima isch ruuch, es git Monsun, Hitz u iischchauti Nächt. Es isch e duurende Kampf zwüsche Mönsch u Natur däm Gländ e einigermasse befahrbare Bitz Strass abzverlange. Doch für die abglägne Himalayadörfli wie Yuksom isch dä Kampf unverzichtbar, um mit Ware u nid dsletscht ou mit Touris versorgt z wärde.
    Uf jedefau het me gmunklet, das mehreri Abschnitte zwüsche Darjeeling u däm besagte Checkpoint immerwieder stundewiis wäge Bouarbeite unterbreche wärde u mir drum frühe los müesse um de am Mittsg in Jorethang no vor 13:00 e Sammu-Jeep ds verwütsche.. Kes Problem heimr dänkt, bis mr gmerkt hei, das sofrühe wie mir müesste gah no kene fahrt..auso Privat Taxi am 6:00 am Morge für die erschte 40km.. für huere viu Gäut u weni Komfort. Bis zum Checkpoint, u när nach Johrethang, auso die Streki wo agäblech so schwierig sig, hei mr eigentlech kes Problem gha. Mir si am 10.00 ds Jorethang hät auso guet ou dr Sammeljeep glängt aber äbe me weis ja nie.. Dä hei mr de am 13:00 richtig Yuksom wöue bestige…aber dä wo am eis isch cho het üs nid wöue mitnä..är isch o scho völlig überlade gsi. Uf Jeepbänkli wos ds dritt scho äng isch, d Inder normalerwiis ds viert hocke, hei sie sich dasmau ds füft drufdrückt …danke, merci..mir näme dä wo agäblech i 10 Minute chunnt. Us indische 10 Minute si de 90 Minute worde…aber, immerhin, mir hei ds ganze Hingerbänkli für üs gha we me vo däm haagere Inder abgseht wo näbe mir dr viert Platz het igno u we me dr Heisswasserboiler wo si üs no quer über de Bei gleit hei nid iiberächnet. Wo de aues verlade isch gsi isches am 15.30 losgange.
    Scho churz nach dr Stadt isch d Strass nüm teeret gsi. Uf dr Siite gäge Teesta-River si immerwieder grossi Bitze vor Schotterbischte abgrütscht gsi wüu si vom Flusd ungerspüut si worde..dr schier ändlos Strom vo Laschtwäge, Jeeps, Bösse u Töffe hei sich dert immerwieder müesse Vortit la u sich uswiiche, was zu hausbrächerische Manöver gfühert het. Dert wos nid angers geit tuet dr Staat mit riisige Bagger u Laschtwäge das wo dr Fluss unger dr Strass furt spüut obe wieder drufschütte. Was äbe zu dene erwähnte, stundewiise Strassesperrine u de entsprächende Stous fühert..sobaud de aube aui wieder i beidi Richtige chöi Fahre chunnts wieder zu dene unsägleche Uswiichmanöver. Die vom Fluss usghöuti u vom Räge usgwäschni Strass het riisigu Sumpf- u Schlaglöcher. So das dr Fahrer nid nume viiu gschick sondern ou ungloubleche Optimismus u es riisigs Vertroue i si chlapperig Jeep brucht. So si füf wiiteri Stund vergange..schüttle, houpere, es umeschlaa vo linggs nach rächts (mit Böiler uf de Chnöi), füre, hingere, gasgä, abbrämse, horne u huupe…
    D Batterie wo usgfaue isch, d Brügg wo eigentlech nume vo eim Fahrzüg gliichzitig hät dörfe befahre wärde und dr duurend us de Boxe trällernd Bollywood Schnulze Sound hani itz wägglaa... Uf jedefsu si mir heil, todt müed u früsch düregschüttlet in Yuksom acho!!
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Yuksom, Юксом, یکسوم

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