Italy
Massa Lubrense

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    • Day 7

      Winding our way to Sorrento

      July 21, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

      We continued along the winding road to another picturesque coastal town, Sorrento. Along the way, I was able to catch a shot of the “human head” rock formation along the cliffside.

      In the middle of the town square is a monument for Torquato Tasso, a very rich man in this area responsible for the growth of Sorrento. From this monument, there are pedestrian streets filled with food vendors, leather goods, and cafés. I tried my first Limoncello sorbet and it was like heaven.

      We were mesmerized by how reasonably priced the leather goods were and had to bring a few new, unique leather bags home. The bright colors in the fabrics were also in Sorrento and I finally found my blue and yellow lemon patterned dress 👗!!! The narrow streets were bustling with people and every so often the smell of lemon or pizza would fill the air. We had limited time and by this point had not eaten, so we walked into a random sandwich shop and had them make “whatever” for us. This whatever turned into an artisanal loaf with prosciutto and fresh mozzarella cheese drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette. Delish!
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    • Day 12

      Ciao Sorrento!

      July 4, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

      Travel day! We said goodbye to Rome this morning. Fun stop on the trip, but we’re ready to stop the hustle from one historic site to the next and just relax again in our final stop of Sorrento. We caught an early (but not too early train). All in all it will be about 3 hours of travel; a short local train ride followed by an hour train to Naples, short layover, and an hour train to Sorrento. Very happy to be navigating with all our luggage now despite the extra weight. Also had a pretty good breakfast at the train station; highlights were the fruit / jam / cheese on a pancake and Becky’s Nutella donut sandwich. She was quite excited not to get any chocolate on her white shirt. Since we splurged for the business tickets on the first train, we also got a decent boxed meal. I get pretty anxious around travel, specifically until I’m on the right plane / train / automobile. Beyond a few minor incidents (local Italian train doors open and close very quickly, and get your beautiful wife stuck in them), the travel was pretty uneventful.

      We’re staying at the Grande Hotel de la Ville, and managed to drop of our bags before lunch. My initial impression of the town is that it felt a little more like the Caribbean than the other places we’ve been in Italy. Not sure I can describe why, though once we started walking around and got to the shopping areas the vibe changed back to feel more European. Lots of tiny streets with tiny shops. Lemons are a big deal here: lemon art, lemon candy, and of course limoncello, of which I see a bunch of in our future.

      After lunch it was time to relax, which is the big theme of our last stop. We left the tiny but well located Rome apartment behind for a hotel with possibly the best rooftop I’ve ever been on. There’s a pool, patio, and bar that are surprisingly pretty empty. We’re 6 stories up and maybe two blocks from the water, but because the coast is reasonably mountainous we can seemingly see for miles. My phone seems to think we’re 200 to 250 feet above sea level. The Gulf of Napoli opens up before us, Mount Vesuvius off in the distance, and a bunch of towns littered across the coast and the peaks. Midjourney describes the view as “a balcony overlooking the ocean, in the style of monsù desiderio, cinematic view, transavanguardia, hikecore”. Couldn’t have said it better myself. After a quick swim, we discovered the roof is a great place to fall asleep to the sounds of waves, boats, Vespas, and Dave snoring.

      We had dinner at a beach club (place you can essentially rent space / chairs by the beach for the day) called Bagni Sant’Anna. Remember how high up our hotel was? Yeah that means dinner was climbing all the way down to the beach. The area is known for lots of stairs, and lived up to its reputation. But the views of the sunset on the way down to and during dinner were impressive. We paid for the ambiance, but the food was quite good as well. Fried calamari, sea urchin risotto, potato crusted cod, and some fish we had never heard of were the standouts. The suckling pig was ok. Apparently in this former fishing village, you should still order the seafood. We rewarded ourselves for making it back up all those stairs with some gelato. The place claimed to be the “worlds best ice cream”, which is probably a stretch, but it was probably the best gelato of the trip.

      And now it’s off to bed so we can get well rested for tomorrows boat day! Ciao!
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    • Day 25

      Return to Sorrento

      May 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      We have just driven down the Amalfi coast and have checked into the hotel Bel Air in Sorrento. Our room in the view from it is indescribably beautiful. We can see for miles up the coast, Mount Vesuvius towers in the distance in the bay of Naples, and the city itself basks gracefully in the Mediterranean sun.

      Like most of the places we have visited, the Greeks discovered the bay of Naples. They named their trading post on the coast Neapolis (new polis or new city). Gradually that name elided into Naples.

      It is not difficult to see why this place is the home of the beautiful people. Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt, and Ralph Lauren all have homes here. Our hotel seems about a thousand feet above the sapphire blue water, and it has all of the amenities one could ever want. We just gathered for dinner with friends. I enjoyed a delicious dinner of ravioli and grilled vegetables. I finished it off with a bottle of the local red wine. It was as perfect a meal as I have ever enjoyed. I know why those who can afford to live here do so. The Amalfi coast is literally a paradise on earth.
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    • Day 27

      The Sorrento Death March

      May 5, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      We were excited about walking into Sorrento again today to complete some unfinished business. I wanted to visit a wonderful furniture store that has some of the most beautiful inlaid marquetry I have ever seen. Secondly, we wanted to have lunch at a little sidewalk snack bar we enjoyed when we were here last. Thirdly, we wanted to show our friend Mary the deep road cut the Romans made with slaves captured in their many wars. Fourthly, I wanted to re-take a photograph of Glenda I muffed when I was here last. It was in the courtyard of a church, and I was just beginning to learn photography, and it was bright out in the courtyard and so Glenda’s face was underexposed.
      So I pulled out the maps app and it got us the six tenths of a mile into town quickly and dumped us right at the door of the snack bar. Cool. We went to the furniture store as expected.
      Check.
      We showed Mary the furniture store.
      Check.
      We showed her the Roman road cut and took a photo.
      Check.
      We walked over to the church and I re- took the photograph.
      Check.

      And then I pulled out my maps app and set it to take us back to the hotel. It began by taking us down a flight of stairs that went down at least 1000 feet below the water level of the bay. Mary was panting. Then we had to climb up another inclined roadway which has not been used since Caligula drove his herd of donkeys to market on the same path in the dying days of the Roman Empire. It rose, and rose, and rose until we could see Capri, and Ischia, and Vesuvius, and Rome and even Biloxi.
      Mary does have a little hitch in her git-a-long, so I wasn’t surprised when she asked, “Any more stairs?”
      “Naw, don’t worry about it,” I said. “This app is great. It shows the quickest way back. Look, you can even see the hotel from here,” I told her.
      “Yes, but it is on the other side of Mount Vesuvius,” she said.
      “Uh—it’s not as far as it looks,” I said.
      “Where’s Glenda,” Mary asked.
      “Oh, crap!” I said. We had already been walking over an hour and a half, and we had lost Glenda. I was frantic. Mary was quickly running out of gas and I had lost my wife in a foreign city. In a few minutes Glenda appeared up ahead of us. “Where have you been?” I yelled.
      “I’ve been up ahead asking for directions.”
      “You’ve been doing WHAT!”
      “It’s not a sin,” she said.
      “It ought to be,” I said.
      She said, “I’m getting us back up to the main road and Mary and I will catch a cab. You want to come?”
      “No way,” I said. “I got this map app . . .”
      “Suit yourself,” she said. “Mary and I are taking a cab.”
      So they did. And I walked back to the hotel. And when I arrived Glenda and Mary were there waiting for me.

      So now Glenda is gloating because for the first time in our married life SHE figured out how to get us home. She is ecstatic because SHE got the right directions before I did. SHE is laughing at me because I took them over four miles when we only had to walk six tenths of a mile. Well, all I have to say is that map app is really cool. I think it’s great cause at least with it a guy doesn’t have to ask for directions.
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    • Day 24

      Cinque Fotigrafies-Sorrento Day 1

      May 7, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      This was our first day on mainland Italy. We arrived to Port in Naples around 8 a.m. after a night at sea on a ferry from Palermo. I was a bit dubious about getting much quality sleep as the seas were rolling a bit. Neither of us suffer from motion sickness, but I do get a bit unnerved by the unevenness of the motion, not unlike my response to turbulence in the air.

      I woke up to the light coming in from the porthole and got up to look outside. It turns out that we were approaching the isle of Capri. That passage will likely be the closest that we get to Capri, but it was fun to see it.

      When we disembarked from the ferry, the next task was to find the commuter ferry from Naples to Sorrento. Google maps saved the day, and we easily found the ticket office about fifteen minutes later. I hadn't booked the connecting ferry until 11 a.m., but the ticket agent let us book the 9 a.m. to Sorrento for a modest fee.

      The ride on the commuter ferry was fun. It was a fast passenger ferry and we cruised along the shoreline at a pretty good clip. Our first glimpse of Sorrento was inspiring as we saw buildings built into the cliffs and walls that reminded me of castles from Game of Thrones.

      As we pulled up to port, we started to map the address, but as I looked up from the dock, I recognized our inn from photos. We confirmed the address and, sure enough, our place of lodging was only about 100 meters from the marina. In retrospect, the lodging house is called Marina Piccolo (small marina) so it makes sense that it was close by

      When we arrived at our accommodations, we met Alice. We were hoping to just drop out backpacks off, but it turns out that our room was ready and she let us move in after a tour of the facility and area restaurant suggestions. She was really quite lovely and welcoming.

      Our room is spectacular. We face the bay and Mt. Vesuvius. The song of the dance of the waves on the shore adds to the tranquility of the place. And most of the city is nestled on the cliffs above us.

      We learned that there are only two ways to get to the upper city: the stairs or a lift that connects you to the public garden. We decided to check out the lift and ventured in search of a local laundromat. As has been true for a good part of our trip, the rains have stalked us from Portland.
      Luckily, Alice had made sure that we had an umbrella, and we found a site to do laundry.
      When we arrived, a young Australian couple helped us navigate how the machines worked. We learned that they had both quit their jobs, and they told us that they were exploring Europe ".. until their money ran out." They alerted us to avoid a specific washing machine. In turn, we paid the information forward by helping another traveling young man navigate the machines.

      Walking the streets of Sorrento is festive with many shops and restaurants luring you to their spaces. The old buildings are interspersed with the new, and I love the integration.

      As we returned back toward our hotel, we opted to try some pizza, the food that this region is famous for creating. When we asked the server how big the pizzas were, he replied that they were single serving size. They were huge and tasty, and despite having leftovers, to-go boxes do not seem to be in custom here. We capped the meal with limoncello shots.

      After a nap, we held a family Zoom call with Genevieve, Olive and my mother as an early Mother's Day greeting and catch up.

      We opted for a late night dinner at the beach. We were the last reservation of the night, and the service was disorganized, but gracious. It should be noted that traveling in Sorrento is a bit like the DownEast Mainer expression, "You can't get there from heah." Although we could see the restaurant from our accommodation, the route to get there was a little tricky as we have to travel up and around a cliff to get back to the shore.

      It's time for bed. I go to sleep with gratitude that the travel gods were looking out for us. Happy Mother's Day to all the moms out there. Buona Notte! 💞
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    • Day 65

      Almost at the cape

      May 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Today we've chatted more often with other German hikers on a similar trail. Even PCT experienced ones. Nice to exchange experiences.
      I've planned to sleep on a summit closer to the cape, but there was a flat and green spot with a table before the summit. And it is more protected here. There weather forecast predicts s but rain around 8-9pm.
      So we stay here, and Lupo loves the grass. Me not... Too often I've felt my allergy. From here it is about 1h to the cape to hike I guess. So we hope for good weather tomorrow and explore it in the morning.

      43.500 steps - 31.6km
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    • Day 65

      Above the Amalfi coast and final part

      May 25, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Yessss... We've done the scary part of all hikers on that trail ... The steep downhill to the beach. CAI warning signs....i wondered... Classification EE... Like before in the mountains.
      It was written that Brambles and lots of vegetation are on the way ..
      Actually it was much better.... No brambles. You must only watch to not slide down. But the ground was dry. So.... Fine.

      First time I've heard a nice beach again since south/west of Sicily. I needed to clean my legs because of all the polls of the grass on the way. With the allergy and sweat it is very itchy.

      A fantastic picnic and rest area was on the way, where we've chatted with German PCT hikers. Pretty interesting experience.
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    • Day 5

      Termini

      October 19, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Nach dem Frühstück gibt es heute nur eine kurze Pause. Gegen elf machen wir uns auf den Weg nach Termini auf der Halbinsel Sorrent. Unsere Truppe steigt die reichlich 300 Höhenmeter zur Bucht Baja di leranto ab. Ich bleibe am Auto zurück. Kein so schöner Tag für mich, außer vielleicht dem Blick auf die von Dunst umgebene Insel Capri.

      Mit dem Auto fahre ich dann die Wanderer auf ihrem Rückweg in Nerano abholen. Ein Eis gibt es dann in Sant‘Agata sui Due Golfi. Hier übergebe ich das Auto, ob der Kommentare, lieber wieder an Carsten.

      Am Abend gehen wir in das nahegelegene Restaurant La Baita.
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    • Day 5

      Auf der Suche nach Passierschein A38

      July 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      Unser zweiter Tag in Rom ging weiter mit viel Sightseeing zu Fuß. Dabei haben wir uns nicht nur den Petersdom und das Forum Romanum, sondern auch den sagenumwobenen Trevi-Brunnen angeschaut und eine Wunschmünze über die Schulter geworfen. Am Abend ging es für uns dann in eine Agriturismo-Unterkunft, die wir eigentlich beim Betreten am liebsten direkt wieder verlassen hätten. Da wir für eine Weiterfahrt aber viel zu geschafft waren, haben wir uns für den Roomservice und die Suche nach einer neuen Unterkunft für den nächsten Tag entschiedene.Read more

    • Day 19

      Dinner with Friends

      October 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

      Walked up the hill to the small town above us, out the back of our hotel and up the alley. We entered Lo Stuzzichino, we had dinner across the way the night before and enjoyed the music from their restaurant so we decided this would be a great place. From the moment we sat down there was lots of music, and happy people. We found out right away that it was family owned and run. They grow all their produce. They all work there and the son is the front face of the restaurant. Mom and dad are back in the kitchen, but mom still runs the show. John decided he would go back and ask her about her meatballs. The rest is history. Dinner was great, the place was full. We will be going back tomorrow night for our last dinner here. Such a beautiful and restful place.Read more

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