Italy
Orvieto

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    • Day 4

      Asolando

      April 23, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      After the duomo I walked all over the place. There is an escalator that goes to the base of the wall, so I checked it out. I think that is how you get to the trail around the city.

      I wandered aimlessly for a long time and found myself by one of the restaurants that was on my list. They didn't open until noon, so I rested on the city wall. But I realized that seating was inside, and it was too nice out.

      I walked to the restaurant that Sorrel recommended. I was the first customer and got a seat outside. It is a really nice day!
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    • Day 4

      Pozzo San Patrizio

      April 23, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      I woke up early to have breakfast and get out and about. I heard that Orvieto gets crowded on Saturdays. Boy are they right! The street in front of my hotel has street vendors set up along the whole way between the duomo and the city wall.

      There was a short line at the well, but I got in quickly. It is 497 steps to the bottom. Not steep, but a lot! The views from the windows were great. A lot of people did the "run to a window across the way and get a picture. I couldn't do that, but I did have a few people take my picture.

      The way back up was a little harder, but it was a gentle slope. I guess if you had to carry water up all those stairs, steep would be bad!

      Afterwards, I discovered a park along the old ramparts, and ruins of an old Etruscan temple. Great views, but overrun with teenage tourists.

      Time to see the duomo!
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    • Day 3

      Orvieto underground

      April 22, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      The tour was interesting. The caves were originally wells for the Etruscans 300 BC. The Romans killed all the Etruscans and filled in the wells. Then in the 12th century, they built the city out of the tufa rocks. It was a papal city--never run by dukes. But in both eras, they were an escape and water source when they were under siege. In the medieval times they raised pigeons for food, and there are holes for nesting.

      The tour took about an hour. I learned about a trail around the walls that I may do tomorrow.

      After the tour, I walked around and looked at potential place for dinner. Time for a short break...
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    • Day 18

      Orvieto

      March 20, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

      Orvieto is a small city stop an outcrop of volcanic tuff with near vertical cliffs all around. This has been a city since at least Etruscan times and was actually an Etruscan acropolis.
      It has been an important city for centuries. It's near impregnable, fortress like setting and its location over the main Rome to Florence road has contributed to the city's wealth and the influence. In fact, this is 1 of only 2 cities outside of Rome to have a papal palace. This is shown in the last picture, though it's now a museum.
      The city today is essentially medieval in character as I think you'll be able to see in the pictures.
      The 1st picture looks from above at what people approaching had to see: the cliffs upon which the city is built. The 2nd picture looks down on 1 of the city gates located below the top of the cliffs. This is the Porta Romana.
      The 3rd picture looks into the Republic Square with a small market set up in the square. Immediately to the left in the square is St. Andrew's Church with it's octagonal bell tower shown in the 4th picture.
      The 5th picture is the oldest church in the city, San Giovenale, that dates to 1004. It is said to have original frescoes but wasn't open.
      The 6th picture is a typical street in Orvieto, and the 7th looks over a portion of the city from atop the Torre del Moro. The cathedral (see another post) is to the right.
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    • Day 18

      Orvieto Cathedral

      March 20, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      The cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta (The Assumption of Mary) dates to the 14th century. The facade in the 1st picture is considered a masterpiece of design. With mosaics, bas relief, rose window and more. These works have been redone and completed over the centuries to arrive at its current configuration.
      The 2nd picture looks down the length of the ornate nave. Notice the black and white stripes. These are alternating layers of travertine marble and basalt that are used throughout the building.
      Near the entrance is the large marble baptismal font in the 3rd picture. Near the font is one of the few ancient frescoes not affected by later alterations. The 4th picture show an example of frescoes uncovered after those alterations were undone.
      The 5th picture is a closer look at the apse. The stained glass and the frescoes all date to the 14th century. The frescoes, though a bit damaged, have been occasionally restored over the centuries.
      The last 3 pictures are in the New Chapel of San Brizio. All the surfaces are frescoes, most by Signorelli.
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    • Day 18

      Orvieto Underground

      March 20, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      The ground under Orvieto has been described as a honeycomb of caves, all of which are manmade. Most of them, in fact, are privately owned and serve as cellars. Only a small area of 2 caves is open to the public.
      The 1st picture is in a section of cave that had been adapted to be operated as an olive oil mill. I'm told it was active through most of the 19th century. Because the temperature in the caves was pretty consistent year round, they could store the olives longer after the harvest and could work year round. The 2nd picture is still oni the oil mill, showing some mill stones and other equipment.
      The 3rd picture is simply a look at a section of cave. Marks of picks and chisels are visible.
      The 4th picture is a well. Sitting on top of the volcanic plug, Orvieto has no surface water. So, especially if under siege, having access to water was critical. These hand dug wells were built using steps carved in the walls that you can make out in the picture. The workers straddled the excavation, digging down and adding steps as they went. It could be 100 meters straight down to reach water.
      The last picture is of a typical use for caves around the edges of the cliff: a dove cote or set of pigeon holes. Pigeon was and still is a typical dish here. Raising these birds was very lucrative as they could reproduce monthly and the birds could feed themselves by a exiting for the day to feed and bring home food for chicks. So, once the dove cote was built, there was essentially no overhead.
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    • Day 4

      More wandering in Orvieto

      April 23, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      After lunch, I made my way back to the hotel for a recharge. For me and my phone. It was the lowest my battery has gotten...maybe ever. I napped for a bit, then tried to figure out what to do. I had seen everything that I could on my city pass. I walked around and finally wound up at the same place I had the spritz before.

      Like everything else, it was crowded. I went in and was told to go outside. I had a spritz and met a couple from Sacramento. We were discussing Italian phrases and I mentioned to the server, who was there, that I said, "grazie," and he said, "you're welcome." I said that no one wants to hear my sorry-ass Italian, and he agreed. Ouch. I did laugh and at least I have confirmation!

      I came back briefly to change for dinner. I decided to try the place I looked at the night before. I got there and they were empty, and full. At least where I was concerned. Who knows, maybe they had reservations. But I'd like to have came back with someone else and tried. So I went to the place close to the hotel. They seated me at a table in the doorway. I had a 1/2 liter of wine, umbriacelli with truffle sauce, and pork. They brought me potatoes that I didn't order. Overall the service was awful.

      I walked towards the duomo and got my gelato. Chocolate and Crema. It was good and I was very full! Time for bed.

      Tomorrow...Rome!
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    • Day 30

      Papal Rest Stop

      May 8, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Whenever the medieval popes traveled north of Rome, they would stop at the papal palace in Orvieto. Because this was the boss’s favorite home away from home, the church here received more than its share of attention and funding. Not only was it a rest-stop for the popes, it was our rest-stop as well on our journey from Abruzzi to San Gimignano. This is the only example of Italian Gothic architecture still remaining. Perched atop a volcanic plug, Orvieto occupies the high ground. The mountain around it has eroded, so the town covers the top of a basalt cylinder that rises a thousand feet above the surrounding terrain. The only way to assault this fortress is with a helicopter, and these were in short supply in the 1200’s. The popes felt safe here.

      Though the cathedral here is neither as large nor as flowery as St. Peter’s in Rome, in some ways I like this church better. Glittering golden mosaics on the facade dazzle the eyes in the afternoon sun. The stiff archaic characters painted on its interior walls speak of a faith that transcends time. Each panel tells the story of part of the Bible, and they do it with such graphic simplicity that one cannot miss the story. Adam sleeps as God removes a rib from his side to make woman. Noah rides over the waves in a huge boat. Peter is crucified upside down. Their message is unmistakable.

      It is a Sunday, and when we walked into the church we saw a Catholic praise-and-worship service in progress. All of the frescoes were illuminated. And they were glorious. A chapel contains the church’s major relic, a tablecloth said to be stained with the blood of Christ that once miraculously dripped from a communion wafer. This event is said to show that the communion elements are the real body of Christ. Okay. I won’t argue the point. This miracle, however, gave rise to a holy day called the Feast of Corpus Christi and to the name of a wonderful city in Texas.

      After leaving the church we wandered through this lovely, ancient town. We bought a pizza and a glass of wine just for the memory. I expect that the memory of Orvieto will be with me for a long time. Like it’s biblical images, it’s hard to forget Orvieto.
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    • Day 4

      Duomo di Orvieto

      April 23, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      After seeing the crowds pouring into the city, I figured that I should see the inside of the duomo soon. When I got there, there were crowds outside. Well dressed crowds. It was people there for a wedding!

      The inside of the church is absolutely beautiful. Not sure how to describe-- cohesive? There was a chapel with frescoes of heaven and hell. The best part was that people painting under those pictures seemed to be watching or commenting on what was going on above them.

      While I was walking around, the organ was playing and a singer was singing--presumably for the wedding. It was a nice treat. I was just getting ready to leave when he started singing Ave Maria. Wow... What an experience.
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    • Day 18

      Umbria Countryside

      March 20, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Umbria is a region of central Italy known for its mou tain towns, rolling hills, farms, etc. The video is taken from the top of the cliff at Orvieto (see another post) to provide an idea of what this part of Italy is like.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Orvieto, أورفييتو, Орвието, אורבייטו, オルヴィエート, 오르비에토, Urbs Vetus, Orvjetas, Orvietu, Орвијето, Орв'єто, 奥尔维耶托

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