Paestum National Archaeological Museum

Slept in a bit but still made it to Paestum for around 2pm. Half an hour train ride - was surprisingly full, presumably due to it being All Saints Day tomorrow, so many Italians travelling for the holiday?

Nothing at the Paestum station, so headed down a country road to get to the site. Grabbed a calzone and freshly squeezed orange juice, before stopping at the museum to buy a combined entry and audioguide. Quickly checked out the museum then into the archaeological site itself.

Paestum has a crazy long history - with settlements dating as far back as the Paleolithic period. It was conquered by the Greeks who called it Poseidonia (dedicated to the god of the sea). Then the local Lucanians took over and called it Paistos, before ultimately the Romans came to power - renaming it Paestum. Was interesting to see the changes in buildings when the Romans took charge and renamed the town. Eventually the town was abandoned in the early Middle Ages (as Salerno became the hub for activity) - it remained forgotten until the 18th century when some road workers found it by accident.

Not as well preserved as Pompeii but really enjoyable, in a different way. More like rubble in most places, but the three temples were stunning. And you could just walk around and on the ruins unattended. Not many other people there - didn't see any other Anglo tourists the whole day!

The Temple of Neptune was quite impressive - although it was actually likely to have been dedicated to Apollo or Zeus (but the 18th century archaeologists named it after the god of the sea and the name stuck).

The museum was also quite interesting if a little disorganised. They found tombs just south of Paestum, and the painted slabs were really interesting (the most famous being "the diver" who may be metaphorically diving from death to afterlife).

Also there were some tombs discovered during the war by the Allies. In contrast to Pompeii (where parts were damaged during bombing by the Allies), the ruins at Paestum were left untouched. But while laying an airfield, these tombs were found, so a British engineer and head of the army archaeological corps excavated them (apparently rather well). Cool.

Then took train back to Salerno. Nipped home for warmer clothing before going on to Vicolo della Neve for dinner. Spotted lots of people (mainly the kids) all dressed up for Halloween. Streets very busy for the occasion. Arrived at restaurant for 7.00pm only to find that it didn't open until 7.30pm. Note - most places here open around this time or later for dinner, which we're still adjusting to! So browsed cute store nearby and got our souvenirs before heading back.

The meal was a simple fare of bean pasta (the only pasta on the menu) and main of assorted vegetables. Simple but so delicious! Great recommendation from our host.

Then strolled on to Bar Nettuno once again for brioche and ice cream. Yum!Read more