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Ehime

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    • Day 21

      Matsuyama

      September 29, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      After lunch, I took a tram to the Dogo district. After visiting two shrines, I went to a beautiful museum which exhibited Edo/Mejii glass in many shapes, colours and purposes, e.g. sake bottles.
      I went to the Dogo Onsen Honkan which was on the site of the oldest onsen in Matsuyama, having been used by the Emperors in 596 AD. The present building was constructed in 1894. It was also the smallest and warmest bath I went in that afternoon.
      The Dogo Onsen Annex Assuka-no-yu had two pools with a small garden.
      Tsubaki-no-yu was relatively modern and larger with an outdoor area with ceramic wall panels and decorative wooden panels.
      I took a tram back to the hotel.
      We had dinner in an arcade in the Okaido district of the city.
      A cold and cough started that night and lasted for four nights. It may have been cause by the air-conditioning in the bedroom being set too low.
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    • Day 20

      Spring is here

      March 30 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      I have two nights in Tsushima and it allows me to walk the 700m climb of this 15K Henro section with a very small backpack. It's sunny it's in the '70s spring is finally here and the trees are blooming all over the place. It's just a fantastic day to be alive and free to roam.

      Thought I would run into Steve or Christine as I'm walking the Henro track backwards but they must have all taken the road down below by the coast. It turns out to be a solitary introspective day. I walked almost 30km. Two good days in a row I can definitely feel it.
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    • Day 20

      Nanrakuen Garden to Uwajima

      March 30 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      This is one of the quintessential Japanese gardens. Not the most famous one but definitely a beautiful example. I go early so I can leave my pack in the house. There is nobody in the gardens and I'm here all by myself, it feels strange, but I'm lucky that in such populated place as Japan I can have a solo experience of Sakura at its peak. Some of these cherry trees are over 200 years old.

      In Uwajima I visit the castle and find even older cherry trees. I'm thinking of getting dinner rest in the park but it's Saturday and there is a kids performance on stage with food trucks all around. More fun to be had.

      At the hostel I run into Christine from Denmark again and meet Benjamin from France. But astonishingly Agnes shows up again. I thought I was way ahead of her. Nice kitchen dinner conversation in French after the Onsen with lots of Japanese and Benjamin.
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    • Day 30

      Return bike to Onomichi

      April 9 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

      I knock out the first 6K before 9:00 but it's still raining and it's supposed to rain for a bit more so I immediately stopped for a cup of coffee and regroup. It takes an hour for the rain to stop and there is no point in getting wet this early in the day. I'm getting some trip planning done.

      On the first bridge I run into a Brazilian couple, they were on their third trip to Japan, they really like it here. Then I took the road less traveled again and found this super nice little coastal trail. I love the process of discovery.

      The definition of a national park in Japan and in the US is quite different. In Japan that means that regular life and industrial development still happens within the confines of the park.

      Great ride, by 3 pm I was going to go by the burger place again but they were closed. Onwards, today is a long day again, well over 100 km just what I wanted. With the rain delay I actually realize that I won't make it back before 7pm and indeed I don't get back until 8:45pm just before the last ferry cut off. Good thing I pack my head lamp often. Great day in the saddle. Really pumped out some strong effort.
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    • Day 26

      …von Beppu nach Matsuyama

      April 18 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      17.04.2024, Mittwoch
      8. Radltag, von Beppu nach Matsuyama
      78 km und 525 hm
      4:20 läutete der Wecker,wir packten alles zusammen und in der Dunkelheit ging es an der Küste entlang zum Fährhafen nach Beppu. Dort legte unsere Fähre um 6:20 ab und wir verließen unser erste Insel Kyushu um nach Shikoku zu gelangen.
      Auf der Fähre wurde gefrühstückt und auf bequemen Sesseln und mit einem Becher Kaffee verging die Fahrt von fast 3 Stunden sehr schnell. Schönheitspflege inbegriffen.
      Im Fährhafengebäude angekommen, lernten wir noch Sam(Frankreich)und Lesley(Belgien) kennen, Bikepacker, die schon seit 2 Monaten in Japan unterwegs waren und nun in die umgekehrte Richtung wie wir, nach Kyushu wollten.
      Fertig adjustiert gings dann an der Küstenstraße entlang Richtung Matsuyama.
      Es ging gleich mal als erstes wieder steil und lang bergauf.
      Durch duftende Orangenplantagen, in Glashäusern und auch im Freien auf Plantagen wuchsen die Bäume und standen in satter Blüte.
      Die Fahrt am Meer war geprägt von vielen ärmlichen Fischerdörfern, dem Geruch des salzigen Meeres, frischem Wind und die Fahrt ging teilweise am ca.1,5m breiten Gehweg oder wenn es zu schmal für unsere Packtaschen war, auf der Straße.
      3 mal ging es durch Tunnels im Berg, nur einmal leider wurde extra für Fußgänger und Radfahrer ein eigener Tunnel durch den Berg geschlagen.
      Beim Fahren durch den Tunnel bin ich doch eher ängstlich. Wenn ein LKW sich von hinten mir nähert, fahre ich äußerst konzentriert, mit dem Herz in der Hose, denn es hört sich an, als ob neben Dir gerade ein Kampfjet in den Himmel startet.

      So gings also am Meer dahin, und unsere Konstitution, besonders meine, litt unter
      der unebenen Straße, der langen Fahrzeit und meiner Müdigkeit.
      Trotz der öfter eingelegten Pausen mit eiskaltem Wasser aus den Vending Machines oder einer Eistüte an einem schönen Sandstrand und dem jedesmal Einschmieren meines Hinterteils konnte ich am Ende schon nicht mehr Sitzen. Mein Popi brannte wie Feuer.

      Wir beschlossen also, in Matsuyama einen Pausentag einzulegen. Alex buchte ein Hotel, Check In, und mit dieser Aussicht kämpfte ich mich durch bis ins Zentrum von Matsuyama.
      Im Hotel angekommen, nahm ich gleich mal eine Dusche. Frisch angezogen mit unserer Schmutzwäsche im Sack, konnten wir im Hotel auch gleich noch unsere Wäsche waschen und trocknen. Dann gings in die belebten Straßen der Stadt, denn zu Fuß ging das körperlich gut. In einer Pizzeria gönnten wir uns Salat, und Pizza Margarita, dann gings noch zum Starbucks auf Kakao und Cookie.
      Satt und zufrieden machten wir uns auf den Weg ins Hotel.
      Endlich schlafen in einem richtigen Bett und nicht auf einem harten Futon, welch eine
      Erholung.
      Doch um plötzlich um 23.14 schrillten unsere beiden Handys laut auf! ERDBEBENALARM!
      Wir waren beide auf einmal wach! Und wir spürten wie sich unser Zimmer von links nach rechts bewegte und dann nochmals!
      Wir hielten uns an den Händen und dann war nichts mehr zu spüren.
      Ein Erdbeben! Vor der Küste von Shikoku hatte es Stärke 6,3, bei uns in Matsuyama nur mehr 3,4, und das war schon entrisch.
      Unser Zimmer befindet sich im 3. Stock, Gott sei Dank nicht höher.
      Eine halbe Stunde später konnten wir dann endlich wieder einschlafen.
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    • Day 164–165

      Cycling day 1: Saijo -> Hojo

      April 24 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      We had planned a short(ish) day of 52km/690m ascent so left the ferry, had a salmon breakfast and cycled up the road to the towel museum, which is a weird combination of towel manufacturing and the Moomims recreated in towels.

      Then it started raining so by the time we got to Hojo (a strange little town just north of Matsuyama) we were freezing, hungry and had to wait nearly an hour to be let into our accommodation.

      Spent the rest of the day trying to warm up - thank god for the bath - and eating cut price supermarket sashimi. A total bargain.

      A slightly more stressful start to the week than intended but some lovely hills and views.
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    • Day 165–166

      Cycling day 2: Hojo -> Ozu

      April 25 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      75km and 520m ascent today and the sun came out - hooray! Started by going through the suburbs of Matsuyama and then out into the open and up into the hills, or, one big punishing hill and then a long roll home.

      Some beautiful little villages up in the hills, the soba restaurant we were hoping for was shut so thanks to Lawson for providing lunch, and then into the town of Ozu, which is in a big valley at the convergence of two rivers and feels like it is delightfully stuck in the 80s.

      We stayed in an amazing cat ryokan with the loveliest owner and had a fabulous bath and were woken up by the cats sitting on us.
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    • Day 34

      Blue line

      June 11, 2016 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      I had been looking forward to this day for a long time. I also had several scenarios planned depending on the weather because i wanted to do a famous bike ride called the Shimanami Kaido. A 77km long trip across several islands and bridges that would lead me from Honshu to Shikoku. My original plan was to do it in two days but the forecast for the second day was mainly rain and thunder so i had to complete the trip today. That unfortunately meant a little less sidetrips and a little faster pedaling but hey i'm Dutch and biking is in my DNA. ;-) I woke up early to get to Onomichi, the starting point of the bike ride. Renting a bike was incredibly easy. No ID necessary, just pick a bike you like, pay the man behind the counter 2000 yen and fil in you name on a simple form and you're off. The bike trail starts with a small boatride to the first island and from there the trail is either a separated bike lane or marked with a thick blue line. Easily recognisable and painted over the entire length of the trail. Now you might think this is easy enough but with my renowned navigation skill i g took a wrong turn at roughly the 5th crossroads. The brochure said the entire trail consisted of gently climbing slopes and there i was pushing my bike up a 15 percent incline, while cursing and sweating all the way up. On the top of the climb was a gentle older Japanese man and i asked him if this was the trail. He had to laugh very hard and then told me i missed a turn. He was friendly enough to guid me back to the trail. I thanked him for his help en continued my way on the gentle slopes leading to the first bridge. It was a really nice and scenic trip up to the first bridge and the fact that the bikelanes are separated from the other traffic really adds to the rhustic feel of the trip. Crossing the bridge was a breeze and the views from the bridge into the island dotted inland sea between Honshu and Shikoku were nothing short of awe-inspiring. On the islands the trail mostly goes over the same roads that the other traffic uses, although there often are quiet and smooth sidewalks you can ride on. Every now and then i would take a small break to catch my breath and take some pictures of the surroundings. I kept an eye on the time and when i was halfway down the trail (the distance to Imabari was clearly marked on the blue line), it was time to get some wel deserved lunch and cool off a little bit. The sun was already hammering down at this time so this break was more than welcome. A half an hour and 5 deepfried chicken nuggets later i got back on the back and got reminded of the advantages of prober cycling gear. I was wearing just my normal clothing and it felt like my underwear was trying to cut my legs off. Luckily on of the other side effect is that your butt gets numb since the bloodflow is cutoff so that helped to ease the pain a bit. As i stopped to take some nice pictures of the next bridge i would cross i noticed my mobile phone, which i use as a camera too, had totally crashed, possibly due to the heat of the sun. I had to into a konbini to let it cool down before i could finally reset it and use it again. This had cost me some valuable time as i had to get to the bike rental station at 5pm and i had to cross a small mountain ridge between me and the last bridge. I switched to beast mode and just pushed the pedals like it was nobody's business. I heard some people with carbon bikes and professional outfits growl as i passed them with my 5 speed bike with basket on the handlebars. I've had people actually cheer me on as they saw me passing by, hauling ass on my "old ladies" bike:-P
      The last bridge promised to be spectacular as it spans a total distance of more than 5 kilometers fro the last island to Shikoku. The bridge was really high and involved some spiraling climbs to get to the bridge deck. The view of and from the bridge was just spectacular and eerilie high. After i crossed the bridge it was just a short ride to Imabari station where the blue line ended. I quickly found the bike rental station and got on the train tu Masuyama, home of the Dogo onsen. One of the oldest onsens in Japan. A true treat after a day of cycling. In Matsuyama i transferred to a tram which would bring me to Dogo onsen. At the tramstop i saw Shine and her family. They had been the ones cheering me on. We had a nice talk in the tram stopped at the final stop it was time to say goodbye. I went straight up to the hostel, which was still a climb, for a bath and a change in clothes. I walked down to the tramstop to get some dinner from the konbini. I walked around a bit and took some pictures of the Dogo Onsen before going back to the hostel for some well deserverd sleep.
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    • Day 63

      Mukaishima - Oshima (60 km, ges. 14.980)

      October 18, 2018 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      Wir radeln - 60 km auf dem Setouchi Shimanami Kaido - von Mukaishima über vier Inseln bis nach Oshima. Es geht über fünf Brücken mit herrlichen Ausblicken auf die Inseln der Inlandsee, durch Städtchen, zu Stränden und an vielen Werften vorbei.
      Im Guesthouse Kume, einem japanischen Haus mit Tatami-Schlafzimmer, werden wir sofort in‘s Auto gesetzt und von Ken zum Sonnenuntergang auf einen Aussichtsberg mit weitem Blick über die Inlandsee gefahren.
      Gemeinsam mit Ken und Miyuki essen wir zu Abend - ein leckeres japanisches Essen!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Ehime, 愛媛県, 에히메 현

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