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    • Sophie And NeveExploring the Unknown
      Day 183

      Komano Kodo - Day 2

      February 29, 2020 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

      Today we woke up and went to the main dining hall for breakfast. For breakfast, on our plates, there was a big piece of smoked fish that still had its tail on it. We weren’t completely surprised, but it was the first time Sophie, my dad and I had fish for breakfast. The fish was good, but I would not eat fish for breakfast on a regular basis. We also had rice, squash, some egg, and miso soup that had a lot of green onions in it.

      Next, we went up to our room to grab our bags to start trekking. The first part of our day was the hardest because it was a 200 m climb up with only a few flat parts. Throughout the day, we saw a lot of cedar trees and still had some uphill parts. Then we stopped for lunch after trekking for 9 km outside of a little convenience store/cafe. We ate our lunch of sushi, a clementine and an energy bar that our home stay had prepared for us this morning. It was very cold and started to rain so we went inside the cafe and had cups of tea and coffee with a small treat. We started out again and got some more stamps and finished our day in a very nice home stay that we don’t have to share with anyone. It has a bedroom, a living room, a dining room, a kitchen, and a bathroom with a shower.

      Neve      Read more

    • Japan Sakura 2024
      11
      Day 5

      Kumano Sanzan Day 1

      March 25 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

      This morning, we got an early start and said our goodbyes to Osaka. I wish I could say that we were leaving after JUST having figured out Umeda station, but that would be a lie. It is insanely big, and we definitely still could not reliably pop out of it anywhere near our hotel or find train lines and restaurants without some mid station u-turns. It'll be nice to be somewhere smaller for the next few days. We also tried out the luggage forwarding service for the first time. We packed everything we didn't need for the next 4 days into our big suitcase, and we're crossing our fingers that we're reunited with it in Kyoto!

      Our train ride should have been very scenic, following along the ocean once south of Osaka, but unfortunately, it's raining again, and clouds obscure the view. We transfer to a bus that takes us into the heart of the Kumano region.

      Our first stop after an unpictured udon lunch is Oyunohara, a massive torii gate at the original site of the Kumano Hongu Taisha, before it was destroyed in a flood. Some ruins of the shrine still exist as well. Also, cherry blossoms! We had seen some on the bus ride in, but this was the first time on this trip we were able to see them up close.

      Next stop was the Kumano Hongu Taisha, which after flooding, was moved to the top of a very steep hill. This is the shrine that all branches of the Kumano Kodo lead to. After exploring a bit, we grabbed some delicious mochi and tea while we waited for our bus.

      Upon arrival in Yunomine Onsen, we immediately put our names in for Tsuboyu, a UNESCO private onsen that sits in a small shack above the river. It has a 2 hour wait, so we check in and get settled in our hotel while we wait. It was a really neat experience, but so hot even with our frequent cold water additions, so we didn't even last our entire allotted 30mins.

      This is our first night in a traditional Japanese style room, so we're sleeping on futons that are directly on a tatami mat floor. Hopefully we both get a good night's sleep, because tomorrow we're hiking an 8 mile stretch of the Kumano Kodo!      Read more

    • Japan
      21
      Day 9

      Große Steine, kleine Schritte

      July 30, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

      Der dritte Tag unserer Pilgerreise startete wie gehabt um 6:15 Uhr.
      Mit 1260 Höhenmetern stand uns der herausfordernste Teil der Nakahechi- Route bevor.
      Die ersten drei Stunden ging es nur bergauf. Dabei überwunden wir Steigungen von 30% und mehr.
      Am letzten Tag der Wanderung genossen wir trotzdem noch einmal alle Details von Japans schöner Natur. Umgestürtzte Bäume auf dem Weg, Moos das einen kleinen Wald bildet und ein 1 Meter großes, versteinertes Drachenei haben wir gesehen.
      Dabei haben wir auch fleißig unser Wander-Stempelbuch gefüllt. Wir sind nun inoffiziel Pilger des Kumano Kodo. Inoffiziel, weil wir die Bestätigung in Hongu abholen müssten. Dafür fehlt uns aber die Zeit und die Lust 😄

      Das Ziel der Wanderung und für mich ein Must-See auf dieser Reise war Nachisan. Die Pagode mit dem 133m hohen Wasserfall im Hintergrund ist für mich ein Symbolbild der von mir so geliebten japanischen Architektur.
      Der rote Shinto-Schrein bildet, zusammen mit dem benachbarten buddhistischen Schrein, den Hauptschrein der Kumano-Region. Da beide Glaubensrichtungen als sehr tolerant gelten, haben auch wir an den beiden Schreinen unser Gebet vollzogen.

      Als uns auf den letzten Kilometern so langsam bewusst wurde, dass dieser Abschnitt unserer Japanreise nun bald sein Ende nimmt, waren wir schon etwas wehmütig. Mit mehr Zeit hätten wir diese Reise gern noch etwas ausgedehnt.

      Nach einer weiteren Nacht in einem klassischen Ryokan sind wir jetzt auf dem Weg nach Hiroshima.      Read more

      See translation
    • Japan Sakura 2024
      Day 6

      Kumano Sanzan Day 2

      March 26 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

      We awoke to heavier and more persistent rain than the past few days, with thunderstorms in the forecast as well. I guess we used up all of our good weather luck in New Zealand last year... Since I'm not crazy, despite what Keanan might think, and don't think that voluntarily hiking through a storm, on slippery rocks, with no views, while soaking wet sounds at all enjoyable, we decided to amend our plans.

      Instead of hiking, we hopped on a bus to Shingu and the Kumano Hayatama Taisha, another of the Kumano Sanzan. When we got off the bus, the rain was coming down in buckets and we were both instantly drenched. We explored the shrine, ducking under cover whenever we had the chance, and then grabbed breakfast on a covered street.

      From there, we took the train to Kii Katsuura, hoping that we'd be able to seek shelter in our next hotel even if we weren't able to check in. By lunchtime, it seemed like the end of the storm was in sight! We got a variety of tuna dishes (Kii Katsuura's specialty) for lunch before hopping on the very crowded bus to Nachisan. We got off before the top in order to climb a portion of the Kumano Kodo, Daimonzaka, to at least get in a little hiking and approach the shrine as the pilgrims. We saw the first blue sky of our trip as we arrived at the top of the stairs to the Kumano Nachi Taisha, the last of the Kumano Sanzan. We explored the grounds of the shrine and temple before going to get a closer look at Nachi falls, the tallest single drop waterfall in Japan.

      By the time we made it back to Kii Katsuura, the sun was fully out, and we were able to check into our hotel room with an incredible view of the ocean! Neither of us slept very well on our traditional Japanese beds last night, but these seem to be thicker mattresses and more comfortable. We enjoyed sampling a bunch of different foods at our hotel's dinner buffet, and I tried my first public onsen experience. It was quite overwhelming, and I feel confident that I prefer hot tub/ hot spring experiences where I'm not naked in front of a bunch of strangers!      Read more

    • Japan
      Day 6

      Also der Zug ist abgefahren!

      July 27, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Man war das warm!

      Heute waren wir bei "Nakau" frühstücken. Das scheint eine größere Kette zu sein. Deshalb war die Auswahl inklusive aller Zutaten bebildert dargestellt. Das spart uns Zeit und Worte.

      Nach dem Essen haben wir uns die Burg Osaka angeschaut. Nur von außen, weil sie innen nicht historisch wiederaufgebaut wurde.
      Und es war wirklich warm.
      36°C und 54% Luftfeuchtigkeit.
      Läuft bei uns!

      Dann ging es zum Bahnhof Tennoji und mit dem Zug nach Kii-Tanabe. Ah da kommt der Zug ja schon...
      "Haben Sie Sitzplätze reserviert?"
      Äh nee
      "Dann können Sie nicht mitfahren!"
      Aha...

      Ja super.
      Das war heute die letzte Verbindung, um zur Unterkunft mitten in den Kii-Bergen zu kommen.
      Wir erreichen jetzt nämlich den letzten Bus ab Tanabe nicht mehr.
      Es war jetzt 13:30 wohl gemerkt.

      Also war die Frage folgende: Die Hälfte des Weges mit einem anderen Bus fahren und dann trampen (laufen wären immernoch 5h) oder ein Taxi nehmen?

      Als wir uns vor Ort, später am Tag, schon fürs Trampen entschieden haben, spricht uns zufällig ein Guide für den Kumano-Kodo-Pilgerweg an: "Das Trampen lasst mal lieber sein. Da oben fährt kaum einer lang und die Menschen sind sehr reserviert."

      Also schlussendlich doch das Taxi. So haben wir nur eine Stunde gebraucht und doch noch ein super leckeres Abendessen bekommen. (Ban-gohan wa totemo oishii desu yo。)

      おやすみなさい - Gute Nacht      Read more

      See translation
    • TravelerKumano Kodo
      Day 7

      Early bath to start the day

      October 26, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

      2 nights in Yunomine Onsen
      Rejoin the Nakahechi route, visited the Hongu Taisha Grand Shrine then a hike back to the Onsen.
      A nice days walking!
      Got my Dual Pilgrims certificate but still need some more stamps and the last 2 great shrines for it to be official.Read more

    • TravelerJapan 2023
      Day 34

      Kii-Katsuura

      October 12, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      I took the local bus from Nachison back to Kii-Katsuura Station and then walked to the fishing port where I ate my bento-box lunch and then an ice-cream. I walked to the Tourist Pier and took the shuttle bus to the Urashima Hotel which was on a promontory overlooking the bay.
      There were loudspeakers and notices about tsunami evacuation centres along the promenade here and in other coastal towns, and loudspeakers in case of earthquakes inland in places such as Takahara.
      Whilst waiting for my room, I went to Bokido, a 4-pool natural hot spring onsen in a grotto with waves lapping the rocks and concrete barrier at the entrance.
      The resort hotel consisted of four sections but some were closed. There were 600 bedrooms in total which could accommodate 3000 guests. Walking around, it was very quiet but 100-200 guests appeared from somewhere at the buffet dinner and breakfast.
      The hotel looked as though it had seen better days but it was in a great location with a view of the Pacific Ocean from my bedroom.
      My forwarded holdall had arrived as always.      Read more

    • TravelerJapan 2023
      Day 34

      Kii-Katsuura

      October 12, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Today would have been a long and tiring hike (1260m up and 960m down) with the possibility of arriving too late to see all the sights at Nachi. Instead, I was up early to catch the 07.00 bus from Koguchi to Kanmaru and then a bus to Shingu Station which followed the Kumano-gawa which as boat trips and forms part of the Kumano Kodo. The bus passengers included smartly-dressed children on their way to school in Shingu.
      From Shingu Station, I took another bus to Nachi Station and, from there, a bus to Daiman-zaka which was the name of the approach to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine, one of the three most important shrines on the Kumano Kodo. The 600m walk to the shrine was up 267 steps lined with ancient cedar trees.
      I visited the shrine plus Nachisan Seiganto-ji, a Buddhist temple, and bought a small black cat, a sign of welcome which was at the entrance to many shops in Japan.
      I went in the lift up 25m to the top of the 3-storied Pagoda from where I saw the Pacific Ocean in the distance as well as the Nachi Falls, the highest in Japan at 133m, across the valley.
      This was my last day on the Kumano Kodo. My conclusions are as follows.
      Over the four days from the afternoon of the 8th until the afternoon of the 12th, I hiked about 65km across the hills and mountains with many steep ups and downs. Much of it was under cover along cedar and pine forest trails and staircases which were uneven at times with roots and rocks. Parts of the trail were tarmac. There was a range of accommodation including camping. The trail was well-signposted with markers every 500m. There was a lot of information in booklets, maps and timetables. There were also toilets on the trail and at the large sights such as shrines. There were some beautiful shrines and scenery. At this time of year, the trail wasn't busy. The locals were very helpful as were the staff at the accommodations. The meals, bento-boxes and facilities at the accommodations were good, and the luggage forwarding was perfect. The weather was kind except on the first afternoon.      Read more

    • Travelerdoms-world-party
      Day 345

      Ruhe und natur

      July 6, 2018 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

      Ich machte mich also gleich morgens auf den Weg raus aus Kyoto, in Richtung südlichsten Zipfel Japans, Kushimoto.
      Gelockt hatten mich Bilder von Stränden, rauen Felsküsten, Natur und die Aussicht auf Ruhe. Und genau so war es, zwar im Dauerregen aber dafür gab es ja eine Regenjacke.
      Es war herrlich. Im Ort selbst wurden gegen 19h die Bordsteine hoch geklappt, was nicht bedeutet dass vorher mehr los war.
      So machte ich mich also 2,5 Tage lang auf, die Gegend zu erkunden und es hatte sich absolut gelohnt. Meine kleine Hoffnung, evtl doch noch zum Surfen zu kommen, hatte sich dennoch leider nicht erfüllt. Es gab schlichtweg keine Bretter zu leihen und auch kaum Wellen.
      Dafür gab es jede Menge Schreine, Japans höchsten Wasserfall, das offene Meer und eine Thunfisch Auktion. Diese war zwar irgendwie interessant aber auch traurig, zumal auch tote Haie versteigert wurden.

      Ps: Der heftige Regen hatte auch Auswirkungen auf meine Weiterreise nach Tokyo. Meine Verbindung wurde komplett gestrichen und auf der ersatz Route herrschte reges treiben aufgrund von massiven Zugverspätungen. Das war das erste Mal, dass ich hektische Japaner und verspätete Züge gesehen hatte.
      Aber auch dabei darf man eine japanische Hektik nicht mit unserer Vergleiche. Alle waren immer noch ruhig, besonnen, freundlich und es ging geordnet zu.      Read more

      See translation
    • Sophie And NeveExploring the Unknown
      Day 184

      Trees along the Kumano Kodo

      March 1, 2020 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Today we trekked 17 km. Our trek started with a fairly steep 1 km climb and then settled into a downhill. The rest of the day was fairly flat and at times, our route took us through small Japanese villages. We collected 9 stamps today including our Komano Kodo completion stamp. We were also gifted some cookies by an elderly Japanese couple driving along our route who asked where we were from. It was so nice!!

      Because I absolutely love trees, I will post some of my favorite tree photos from today. Enjoy!

      Clarinda      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Higashimuro-gun, 東牟婁郡

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