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- Day 350
- Saturday, July 14, 2018 at 11:00 AM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 11 m
AustraliaGardens Point27°28’36” S 153°1’48” E
Back to BrisVegas
July 14, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
After travelling through five continents, 30 countries and over 92 cities/towns for 11 months, 14 days, it was time for these two Aussie boys to fly home, like homing pigeons, to BrisVegas. Our flight didn't leave until 10:30pm so we had the day to tour around LA before heading to the airport to kill a few more hours; that is, after killing a few hours going through the numerous security checks. Welcome to the USA! Except now there is no sign of immigration on the way out. It's self-auto check-in and check-out. This meant even more time to kill at the gates.
We waited and waited for what felt like an eternity. Neither of us were particularly looking forward to the journey and we just wanted it over. Then came an announcement in a thick New Zealand accent (because we were flying Air New Zealand to Brisbane via Auckland). We were advised that there might be a wee bit of a delay to our flight. Half an hour later, we got the call that boarding was about to commence when Jason realised that he had left his tablet, loaded with movies and entertainment for the flight, at one of the security points. We had been practically asked to strip down to underwear to go through scanners, so it was no wonder one of the ten tubs of items sprawled out for customs to inspect went unclaimed. We thought that the point of the body scanners was that it meant that you didn't need to get intimate with customs, and you could just walk through and let technology do the work. But now, it was too late for Jason to go back to retrieve the well-used, cracked-screen tablet. Well, that's what we thought – we weren't aware of events to come. Although Jason did try to make a last minute attempt to find it by retracing his steps, until boarding was about to close.
Again, we waited and waited for what felt like an eternity. Then came an announcement in a thick New Zealand accent advising us that one of the engines failed to start and that we needed to be towed back to the gate. Half an hour ... an hour goes by. We start thinking that our connecting flight in Auckland may not happen and we will be stranded in New Zealand. We only had a two and a half hour stop-over and this was fast starting to look like it wouldn't be enough time. The pilot informs us that the engines are now working and that we had to wait to be towed back out onto the tarmac, and being LA that this would probably take half an hour.
Meanwhile on board, we were entertained by the Air New Zealand crew. The more senior female cabin crew member was a particular favourite of ours. Always worried about the safety and comfort of the passengers, she was quick to remind everyone before each dining service to ensure that everyone's shoulders, elbows, legs and feet were tucked in to make way for the dining cart. We thought she was going to break into the Hokey Pokey. You put your right hand in, and you shake it all about! She even tried to make the garden salad with chicken sound like it had been prepared by a three-star Michelin chef, with its juicy tomato and succulent chicken breast.
Apparently, there were too many people on the flight to Brisbane to reschedule. Either that or they didn't want any more Aussies in NZ. So, Air New Zealand were determined to get us to Auckland before our connecting flight was due to leave. We just hoped that we got there in one piece and didn't end-up like MH370. We landed in Auckland with half an hour to get through customs and to our gate. All you could see was a mob of Brisbanites madly racing through Auckland airport, out of fear of being stranded in New Zealand. We navigated through the crowd to get to the international transfer section and got to the gate just in time for boarding, and just before Jason was deported. Half an hour was probably still half an hour longer than Jason cared to be in NZ.
Eventually, we made it back to little old BrisVegas. It felt like we had just closed our eyes for a nano-second, experienced an intense dream and then had been jolted back to reality, as if the last 349 days had been spent in a parallel universe. Now, only the memories will live on in our minds. Forever, we will look back on all the great times that we experienced and the great friendships that we formed, as we start planning our next destination. It may be the end of this trip but Brisbane will not be our final destination ....Read more
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- Day 343
- Saturday, July 7, 2018
- ☀️ 38 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
United StatesParker Canyon34°2’30” N 118°34’12” W
Laid Back in LA LA Land
July 7, 2018 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C
Early in the morning, before sunrise, we left our Airbnb in Mexico City to check-in to our 7:10am flight with budget-airline Interjet. With the time zone differences, we arrived in LA well and truly before our 4pm check-in time. We had plenty of time to kill and were fortunate enough to be able to drop off our bags at our West Hollywood apartment. The next few hours we wandered the streets like bagless vagrants, Hollywood-style. Our apartment was well-positioned, within walking distance of Santa Monica Boulevard and Sunset Boulevard. Armed with a fistful of dollar bills, which were quickly eaten up by the LA buses, we explored all over the city over the next five days.
At first, the biggest culture shock seemed to be the language. We'd gotten so used to hearing and speaking Spanish that English felt strange (at least with others). For the first few interactions, the automatic response was to thank the person with gracias. It went over well with the Hispanic girl at Subway, but the bus driver who clearly didn't speak Spanish as her first language simply glared at us.
We had been to LA previously but we had only spent a day so this time we planned to see a lot more of the city. On our first trip, we weren't overly impressed but this time things seemed different. While many of the landmarks appeared the same as they did nine years ago, the most obvious change was the amount of billboards advertising the legal cannabis dispensaries and home delivery services.
On our second day, we headed to the ritzy part of Beverly Grove, just past Beverley Hills. We stopped off for lunch. The second thing that we needed to get used to after 8 and a half months in Central and South America was the price of food and drink. But Ricky didn't realise that he would need to take out a small loan to pay for the US$17 (AU$24) milkshakes. At first, he thought it was only $7 but quickly realised that there was an extra digit. The cow that produced the milk must have been a purebred Hollywood star – probably one of the Kardashians.
The following day, we got to experience travelling through the city like a local, as we took one bus, for almost an hour and a half, along Santa Monica Boulevard, and then another after almost an hour wait. Just short of three hours and we arrived at the Getty Villa in the Pacific Palisades. We were under the impression that we needed to have a ticket, that was booked online, and that we needed to attend within the designated timeslot. Well, our timeslot was almost up because of the LA traffic. When we arrived, we noticed a sign saying that walk-ins were not allowed and that it was necessary to show a bus ticket or parking ticket. But we had fed our dollar bills to the hungry bus machine and we didn't get a receipt of any kind. Luckily, none of that was a problem. Denise, an elderly local woman, gave us a spare bus card, which she had received for free because she completed a survey. Now, we were bestowed with the bus card as a souvenir of our dear Denise. We parted ways and set out to explore the reconstructed Roman Villa of the Papyri, which houses a large collection of antiquities.
We felt we couldn't leave LA with at least one Hollywood tour. So we packed our daypack and spent the day at Universal Studios in Universal City. We toured the studios, where we got a behind-the-scenes look at a movie studio. We quickly learnt one of the best tricks to know about a theme park – take the single rider line! We were able to experience most of the attractions in the theme park by using the single rider line and we rarely had to wait more than fifteen minutes. Once again, we found ourselves stuffed and gorged in Simpson's land by the extremely oversized donut for dessert and a Krusty pulled pork burger for the main, followed by a Butterbeer in Harry Potter world. We hope we won't be up for excessive baggage charges for a few excess kilos.
After a day of shopping, we were back on the paparazzi trail as we embarked upon the TMZ tour of celebrity Hollywood and its surrounds. Unfortunately the tour was fairly uneventful, with only a minor celebrity sighting of a comedian who was unfamiliar to us. We toured around low-brow sights, such as the place where Hugh Grant was arrested with Divine Brown, the In-N-Out burger joint where Lady Gaga ordered a burger in her underwear or the now nonexistent signpost that Kayne West smacked his head on while trying to avoid the paparazzi. It was all a bit of an anti-climax. As we fast approach the end of our trip, we are quickly realising the reality of it all. The last (almost) twelve months are soon coming to an end and our next destination is home.
Next stop: Brisbane via Auckland.Read more
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- Day 342
- Friday, July 6, 2018 at 5:11 PM
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 2,233 m
MexicoSan Pedro Iztacalco19°23’42” N 99°7’42” W
Mexico City Part 4
July 6, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
From Oaxaca City, we travelled back to Mexico City for the final time. We almost missed our 1:16pm flight on Volaris because we got distracted chatting to Kyle and Terri from Texas. As we sat in the boarding area, a short Mexican woman came running towards us and asked if we were Ricky and Hason. When we confirmed our identities, she made us sprint to the gate. With our backpacks strapped to our backs, counter-balanced by our fat guts on the front, we took off as fast as we could, despite the load, and made it on-board just as the doors closed. It was as if there was something telling us not to go.
Staying close to the CDMX airport, we arrived at our Airbnb and just wanted to quickly dump our luggage so we could meet up with our los venezolanos, Gerardo and Pedro. But first, we had to get through the check-in process; that is, we had (to try) to communicate with our hosts. The old lady who answered the door had a thick accent and spoke so quickly we had no idea what she said. And we had no clue what language the old man was even speaking. We're not sure if he had a speech impediment, if he had an accent or if he needed to put his false teeth back in, but he was just a series of mumbled hoots and clicks. All we could do was apologise and admit that we did not understand – no entendemos.
The same words needed to be uttered moments later when Police on motorbikes stopped and quickly spewed out a series of their own hoots and clicks. When we admitted to our lack of Spanish speaking skills, the officer responded “English”. The police were in pursuit of two guys – luckily it wasn't two tall gringos from Australia. All of this while we waited for our Über to get to Pedro's house on the other side of the city. We spent our remaining waking hours with our Mexican-residing Venezuelan friends, chatting, laughing and savouring every moment before we needed to catch the next flight.
Next stop: Los AngelesRead more
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- Day 338
- Monday, July 2, 2018
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 1,562 m
MexicoSan Francisco Tutla17°4’0” N 96°40’0” W
Oh Oaxaca!
July 2, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Our time in Mexico was soon coming to an end but we had enough time to squeeze in a trip to another part of the country. Travelling budget-class Volaris airlines, we boarded our flight to Oaxaca City, after a slow Über ride through Mexico City. The Über ride included the obligatory conversation to practise our Spanish, which was almost the same conversation, or a variation on a theme, that we have had with every Über driver in Mexico. The hour flight got us to Oaxaca City a little after lunchtime, which meant we had the afternoon to roam around the historical centre.
Oaxaca City is situated at the foot of the Sierra Madre mountain range, in the Central Valleys region of the state of Oaxaca. While Oaxaca City is not the big smoke and not exactly renown for its party scene, we must have found the only “nightclub” in the city – and it was located at the foot of our apartment building. After the thumping bass of the restaurant-cum-nightclub stopped, we only had a few hours before the thumping sounds of drills and hammers and construction work took place in an adjoining building. We are almost certain that the DJ at the nightclub was playing to an empty room – maybe he turned it up so the neighbours could enjoy the soothing sounds of hardcore techno at 3am. Not!
After a couple of days of exploring the historical areas of the city, Ricky took a tour of Monte Albán, an ancient site inhabited by the Zapotec and Mixtec cultures, and located a few kilometres away from downtown. The site was an important civic-ceremonial centre for the Zapotec people, with artificial terraces and architectural mounds across the partially excavated city. More interestingly are the carved stele that demonstrate the culture’s deep understanding of anatomy, particularly with respect to obstetrics. Apparently early in the civilisation, the culture did not understand the correlation between birth defects and consanguineous sexual relationships (translation: they didn't know not to have sex with their relatives). The stele included depictions of a number of women with physical abnormalities, some illustrating the complexities of child birth. After a quick wander of the site, the tour ended with a sprint through the on-site museum, before being huddled back in a mini-van. The amount of time allocated really wasn't enough to explore the entire site in a leisurely manner. At least Ricky got to meet a couple from Texas, Kyle and Terri, who had visited the ruins twice, and we got to exchange travel stories and contact details.
The next day, we wandered to the Centro Cultural Santo Domingo, a former church and monastery built between 1555 to 1666. Initially, we thought that we would spend an hour touring around the religious site (well, half an hour for Jason and an hour for Ricky). We strolled around the bottom floor before catching sight of the enormity of the building and the collection of artefacts that ranged from the earliest civilisations of the Zapotec to the late Nineteenth Century. Surrounding the church and monastery is the largest garden of cacti and succulents that we have ever seen. Unfortunately, we missed a tour of the gardens but it wasn't too late to do a tour of the local markets, one more stroll through the Zócalo, a wander past the Basilica of Our Lady of Solitude and the Oaxaca Cathedral before heading onto our next destination.
Next stop: Mexico City Part 4Read more
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- Day 327
- Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 11:41 AM
- ⛅ 16 °C
- Altitude: 2,319 m
MexicoMoon Square19°41’54” N 98°50’42” W
Trip to Teotihuacán
June 21, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
One of the most popular tourist attractions forty kilometres from Mexico City is the ancient Mesoamerican city of Teotihuacán. The original city is believed to have been founded around 100 BCE, with continuous building construction occurring up until 250 CE. By the mid-sixth century, the city had been sacked and buildings burned. A little later in the seventh or eight century, the site was completely abandoned. The Aztecs, centuries later, discovered the abandoned city and repurposed it, or reimagined it if you will, for themselves, claiming ancestry with the Teotihuacán culture.
The three amigos, Julie, Jason and Ricky, set out on their Aztec adventure from the main bus terminal in the north of Mexico City. After a little over an hour on a bus, we arrived and headed to the onsite museum before scaling the steps of the Pyramid of the Sun, which left us panting like a sex-worker on a busy night. Needless to say some of us were a little bit relieved to find out that the Pyramid of the Moon could only be climbed to the first level. Apart from the main structures along the Avenue of the Dead, there are residential areas with elaborate murals to explore. Unlike Chichén Itzá, the vendors are restricted to a small stretch near one of the exits to the site, with only a handful roaming around. Bypassing the vendors, we ended our tour with another museum visit, before catching the next bus back to Mexico City.
Next stop: Back to Mexico City.Read more
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- Day 322
- Saturday, June 16, 2018
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 2,235 m
MexicoGran Canal de Desagüe19°25’54” N 99°7’24” W
Mexico City Part 3
June 16, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
After a week in Cancun, the three amigos, Julie, Jason and Ricky, flew back to Mexico City, just in time for Pride Week. This time, the three amigos were located in Colonia Centro, within walking distance of the downtown and historical areas. We were situated amongst the hustle and bustle of the city, with constant sounds of car horns from 7am until late at night. We didn't need to set an alarm. The traffic was our alarm clock and like clockwork the high-pitched sound bellowed at the same time each day. We wouldn't be surprised if most of the long-term residents suffered from tinnitus. There was still a ringing sound long after we left the city.
We had only returned and, after a couple of hours, we had reunited with our friend, Gerardo, who also introduced us to his cousin, Pedro, a.k.a los venezolanos. They invited us for dinner at their work, where were we fortunate enough to try some of the local delicacies, in between jugs of the local beer. Julie even got to sample a vegetarian dish made from cactus – of course without the spines! Although, the spines could have doubled as toothpicks. After three jugs of beer between the five of us (although Pedro was working so wasn't able to indulge), the three amigos and Gerardo stumbled into an Über to go home to get some shut-eye, oblivious to events that would occur as Pedro finished work at the restaurant. We found out the next day that Pedro had suffered a blow to his head and only regained consciousness hours later in the streets. He had been robbed and all of his valuables, including passport, had been stolen. Pedro remembers nada. Fortunately, Pedro didn't sustain any long-term injuries.
Meanwhile the three amigos, unaware of Pedro's situation, gallivanted around the historical centre. Later that evening, we were able to catch up with los venezolanos and hear firsthand about the ordeal. Gerardo was always on hand to be our intermediary and translate anything that we didn't understand, which for Julie was anything in Spanish and for Pedro anything in English. We were treated to a lesson on latino music as Gerardo played (and sang) all of his favourite hits.
The next few days were spent trekking and around taking in the typical tourist spots, such as the Angel of Independence, the National Museum of Anthropology, Castillo de Chapultepec and a day trip to Teotihuacan. The National Museum of Anthropology took a good two hours to cover and includes one of the largest pre-Colombian collections that we have visited. The collection includes all of the different ancient cultures from Mexico, culminating with several rooms of Aztec artefacts such as the Stone of the Sun and the Aztec Xochopilli. We followed up the museum with a tour of the Castillo de Chapultepec, a nineteenth century castle that served as the residence of the viceroy during Spanish times and the home of the Emperor of Mexico Maximilian I and his consort Empress Carlota.
Most tourists don't leave Mexico without taking in a bit of lucha libre, a Mexican-style wrestling. Earlier in the day, Julie and Ricky were tasked with buying tickets to the Tuesday night show, while Jason stayed at home, lying in bed sick. After circling the Roma Arena in search of tickets, we finally stumbled upon the ticket office and managed to buy tickets in the second circle. That evening we rocked up at the arena, took our seats and were waited on by roving vendors. With our beers and popcorn purchased, we were set. Now let the show begin! Immediately, we were treated to scantily-clad women gyrating in unison to loud pumping music (well, kind of, except for the uncoordinated dancer in the back row). It was a two-hour show of masked wrestlers bouncing, jumping and slamming into each other like a mosh-pit of gymnasts, punctuated with scantily-clad women dancing and prancing around the ring with signs in between rounds. We're undecided whether the wrestlers were more entertaining than the three latina women sitting next to us who screamed obscenities throughout the show. Our Spanish is no better than a six-year child but we do have a more than satisfactory grasp of las palabrotas / swearwords and can swear like a fishmonger's wife, especially Little Miss Pottymouth. We're also undecided if we should be offended or not. Most of the words being screamed by the women, and many other audience members, included the word puto, which would be similar to an English-speaking person screaming poof or faggot.
But the main event was Mexico City's LGBTIQ Pride Day, which due to Mexico playing in the World Cup was delayed to avoid a clash with the soccer fans. The parade included a number of corporate-sponsored floats, some throwing out free giveaways as they filed down the street. Jason made out like a bandit with all kinds of goodies. Beside some of the commercial floats, there were some politically-inspired messages that were scattered throughout the parade. After four hours the parade came to an end and we headed back to our apartment to catch-up with Gerardo and Pedro for pre-drinks. After a few drinks, we all stumbled out onto the street and walked to the after-parade party, Pervert, hosted in an old movie theatre. But watch out for the terraced dancefloor in the dark! At the party, we meet people from all over the Americas (including Antonn and his partner) and we got to practise our (poor) Spanish. At the end of the night, well past abuelita’s (granny’s [a.k.a Jason]) bedtime, the three amigos and los venezolanos slowly stumbled home.
After a day of recovery, the Mexican adventure of one of the three amigos, Julie, came to an end and she began her journey back to the land down under. For the other two amigos, it was time to move to another apartment, closer to the historical centre and next to the office of the secretariat. The entire area was swarming with police, dressed in full riot gear, standing around, mostly with their heads stuck in their phone checking their social media feeds.
The next few days were spent wandering and exploring the streets of Mexico City and hanging out with Gerardo and Pedro. The traffic in the city is so crazy that often it was easier to walk than catch an Über. We doubt that there is a street within a 10 kilometre radius that we didn't traverse. One day involved a trip to Walmart, the only shop to stock Jason's latest addiction, Juan Valdez coffee, affectionately referred to as Jason's new boyfriend Juan. Another day was needed to explore the gay area of Juárez, and yet another day to explore la Condesa. There are so many areas within Mexico City that we easily filled a couple of weeks, sixteen days to be precise.
Our final day in Mexico City happened to be election day and therefore a public holiday (and also a dry day where alcohol isn't sold). The streets seemed deserted, unlike when Mexico won a game in the World Cup and the one million people jumping up and down caused a 2.0 on the Richter scale earthquake. After more than two and a half weeks in Mexico City, it was time to move on to our next destination.
Next stop: Oaxaca CityRead more
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- Day 318
- Tuesday, June 12, 2018
- 🌬 33 °C
- Altitude: 25 m
MexicoEl Castillo20°40’60” N 88°34’6” W
Checkin' Out Chichén Itzá
June 12, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ 🌬 33 °C
Chichén Itzá is a Mayan ruin located about three hours by bus from Cancun in the Yucatán region. We arrived at the main bus terminal in Cancun and waited for our bus to Chichén Itzá. The scheduled time passed and still there was no sign of a departure. After about half an hour of waiting around, the bus finally arrived, loaded up with passengers and we were off.
Chichén Itzá became one of the largest cities in the region during the late classic period, 600-900 CE. The site is dominated by a large pyramid in the centre of the main plaza and a large ball court and a number of platforms surrounding the plaza. There are also two main sinkholes or cenotes, where there has been evidence found of human sacrifice. The most famous sinkhole, Cenote Sagrado, was dredged in the early twentieth century and numerous Mayan artefacts and human remains were found. The complex is filled with hundreds of local vendors trying to sell their wares. The sales pitch was almost the same throughout the site – they say that their goods cost US$1, or 20 pesos if they can see that the tourist is non-gringo. When the vendor goes to seal the deal, they say $1 off the price, not $1. Some people find the vendors off-putting, and while they were annoying, we seemed to manage to ignore them and not let it affect our time. Jason did fall prey to their traps and bought a blanket with a picture of a Mayan warrior woven into it.
At one point, the sky rained on our parade and we had to seek shelter under our umbrellas. Soon, we were bombarded by a group of Spanish tourists from Barcelona and Valencia, wanting to share our shelter. Despite their thick Spanish accent, we had a brief conversation before the sky cleared and everyone continued with their tour of the site.
By the end of the day, the number of (narcissistic) selfies being taken was almost unbearable. The monument, which should be the main focus, seemed to be relegated to just a background and the face of some wannabe instagramer or blogger took centre stage. We sat and watched as one couple tried to set up a photo as they jumped and bounced across the site. At one point, the woman fell flat on her arse in the dirt. But that didn't deter her.
After about three and a half hours of wandering the ancient ruins, we had covered the entire area that has been excavated and we were ready to embark upon the long journey home. For some reason, the return trip took almost an extra hour to reach home. It made for a very long day but well worth the expedition.
Next stop: Back to CancunRead more
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- Day 317
- Monday, June 11, 2018 at 11:12 AM
- ⛅ 30 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
MexicoPlaya del Carmen20°37’12” N 87°4’30” W
Passing through Playa del Carmen
June 11, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
On day three in Cancun, we decided to take a one-hour-forty-minute bus trip to the nearby beach town of Playa del Carmen. We first needed to get to the main bus terminal in Downtown to then catch another bus to Playa del Carmen. When we arrived at the small beach town, we were met with tonnes of seaweed that had washed up on shore over night. There was no way that there was going to be any swimming so instead we hit the street markets for a bit of shopping, although the three amigos (Julie, Jason and Ricky) walked away with only a small bounty.
The bigger bounty was captured in their gullets as they grazed their way through the streets, dodging other tourists. After lunching on tacos and fajitas and after a wild goose chase in Walmart for a new umbrella to shade Jason from the harsh rays of the Sun, the three amigos hit the road and returned to Cancun.
Next stop: Back to CancunRead more
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- Day 315
- Saturday, June 9, 2018
- ⛅ 31 °C
- Altitude: 17 m
MexicoPlaya Caracol21°7’60” N 86°44’48” W
Kickin' Back in Cancun
June 9, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
The three amigos, Julie, Jason and Ricky, were set to travel to Cancun to spend a week on the Riviera Maya. We arrived at the airport early and, at this point, our flight did not have an assigned gate. Go budget airline! We kept a vigilant eye on the information screens waiting for a gate number to be assigned but it didn't seem forthcoming. Then, all of a sudden it changed to T. We all looked puzzled at each other, trying to work out what this meant. Was it to be announced or was there some other (hidden) code to all of it? Then, 20 minutes prior to the flight, we saw a sign in the distance with a T on it and we figured this was the correct direction to board our plane. Two hours later, we landed in Cancun and were taken to our Airbnb by a pick-up service, which was actually cheaper than a taxi. Über had been operating in the area, but due to some violent incidences with taxi drivers, this was no longer an option.
The first afternoon, we took a bus for 12 pesos (less than AU$1) to go to La Isla Shopping Centre in the Hotel Zone. We were staying in between the Hotel Zone and Downtown so it took only about ten minutes to get there. Amazingly, or maybe not, the price of food (and everything) was about three to four times more in the Hotel Zone compared to Downtown, where tourists rarely go. On the way home from the Hotel Zone, the bus seemed to be converted into a nightclub as the music blared from the speakers and the coloured lights flashed throughout the bus. It seemed that the bus driver was on commission as he stopped for anyone who might look like they needed a ride home. This meant that the ten minute journey took about half an hour to forty minutes. It felt like a lifetime as some of the passengers yelled at the bus driver, rather aggressively, to hurry up while others started to busk on the bus.
The next day, we headed to el Rey, a Mayan ruin in the Hotel Zone, but little known by most tourists who visit Cancun. El Rey is a site that includes 47 structures from various phases of the occupation from 200 CE until the Spanish invasion, when it was abandoned. After a brief tour of the ruins, we crossed the road to one of the beaches along the Hotel Zone, Playa Defín to check out the crystal blue water and fine, white sand. Playa Defín was one of the very few beaches that we have visited that could actually rival an Australian beach.
For the remainder of our stay, the heavens opened up and flooded most of the area, which meant we were largely house-bound, except for a quick outing to get food or a short tour of the downtown area. On one occasion, we headed to the Downtown area to indulge in some cocktails and Mexican food. The prices were a quarter of the tourist area so why not have four times the amount and become gluttons. Bart, not Bart Simpson, was the owner of the restaurant and dressed us up in traditional Mexican costume, as we sat back and sipped (sculled) on our cocktails before stumbling home.
The rain, however, wasn't confined to Cancun. Many areas of the country were affected by flooding caused by two hurricanes off both coasts of the country. But fortunately, the sky held out for our day trip to Chichen Itzá and the flooding had receded at our next destination.
Next stop: Mexico City.Read more
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- Day 313
- Thursday, June 7, 2018
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 2,254 m
MexicoColonia del Carmen19°21’12” N 99°9’42” W
Mexico City Part 2
June 7, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
After a week at the beach, we flew from Puerto Vallarta to Mexico City so that we could meet up with our friend, Julie, who had travelled from Australia to Mexico to visit us. The hour-and-a-half flight got us into Mexico City airport with enough time to collect our bags and catch the train to the other terminal to meet Julie. We had made signs to hold as she exited immigration but her flight was early and she appeared before we could pull out the signs. Welcome to Mexico Aunty Julie!
We spent the next two days in Mexico City exploring the nearby area and the Frida Kahlo house-cum-museum. The museum, also known as the Blue House, is dedicated to the Mexican artist and avant garde fashion icon, who was famous for her self-portraits (and her unique fashion) that combined popular culture with indigenous and folk styles. The museum included not only her artwork and photos but personal items that provided an insight into her lifestyle. Frida had contracted polio as a child which left her disabled and then was injured when she was involved in a bus accident when she was eighteen, which affected her for the rest of her life. Due to her injuries, she needed to wear corset-like garments to support her frail body, which she incorporated into her fashion. Apparently children would call out to her in the streets and ask her “where is the circus?”. To call it Fridamania would be an understatement. Frida's everywhere, including on the 500 peso note.
We also meet a Venezuelan PhD student, Gerardo, studying in Mexico, who helped us practise our Spanish, although the conversations tended to be more Spanglish, a mix of Spanish and English whenever we were unable to find the vocabulary to express ourselves. However, we did prove to ourselves that we are able to make small talk (really small talk). Maybe we can continue our conversation when we return. Our time in Mexico City was only brief but we will be back to spend more time in the megacity upon our return from our next destination.
Next stop: Cancun.Read more
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- Day 306
- Thursday, May 31, 2018
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Altitude: 25 m
MexicoPlaya Los Muertos20°36’0” N 105°14’18” W
Putos en Puerto Vallarta
May 31, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
Puerto Vallarta was our next destination, well-known as the gay beach capital of Mexico, with LGBTIQ seaside resorts, bars and clubs. We arrived early at the Guadalajara bus terminal only to find out that the next bus to Puerto Vallarta was sold out and that the 8:20am bus was running at least an hour behind schedule. We checked the other companies and the earliest bus that we could find was leaving at 9am. In the meantime, the bus that was supposedly running late arrived and left before our 9am departure. We eventually exited Guadalajara and arrived in Puerto Vallarta around 2pm. For seven days la Playa del Muertos was our playground, as we soaked up the sunshine and slurped on our cold, alcoholic beverage on the beach.
Our apartment was only a short distance from the beach but it seemed perched high in the hills. To get to the beach, we had to descend down a flight of stairs, then a short walk before tackling a set of stairs that were built into the side of a mountain cliff. The journey down wasn't the problem - it was getting back up that was the problem, particularly after a few drinks. The same pattern occurred each day: get up, eat, go to the beach, drink, return home, rinse and repeat the next day. To mix things up, we changed the order of these activities or added an excursion to the historical centre to stock up on supplies or a bite to eat.
On our first day in Puerto Vallarta, we strolled along the beach, puzzled at the colour of the water. It was a colour that we had never seen before. We started to think that the name of the beach, Playa de los Muertos (Beach of the Dead) may have been named after the dark red oceans. Maybe it was just an isolated incident but the next day the colour had returned to a bluish, green colour. Beach life was relatively uneventful, except one day a shark was spotted. Ricky was the last to know about it. He tried as fast as he could to get out of the ocean, but it seemed like everything was in slow motion and the sand had turned to quicksand. All Ricky could hear in the background was the eerie music from the Jaws movies. That was the end of our day at beach and our time in Puerto Vallarta.
Next stop: Mexico City.Read more
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- Day 305
- Wednesday, May 30, 2018 at 1:51 PM
- Altitude: 1,211 m
MexicoTequila20°52’54” N 103°50’18” W
Te Quiero Tequila
May 30, 2018 in Mexico
When most people think of Mexico, they think of big Mexican hats and tequila shots, so a visit to the small town of Tequila and a tour of one of the factories was in order. Most people haven't even heard of the town, even if they are chronic tequila drinkers. It is only an hour by bus from the main terminal in Guadalajara. As we walked the main street of Tequila, tour sellers lined the street all with the same tour but with different branding. Miraculously the prices of the tour were slashed with little need to bargain. But we didn't want to take the first offer so we continued to the end of the street. We excepted the next deal without reservation and then walked away realising that we didn't ask if the tour was in English. We were prepared for the worse, because, let's face it, most organised tours are crap anyway and really don't live up to the promises and the promotional photos.
We had a hour to kill before the tour started so we walked around the historical centre then boarded our tour bus that was the shape of a tequila barrel. And no, the tour wasn't in English and Peppa the Pig hadn't taught us anything about the tequila making process. So we were up shit creek without a paddle. We understood very little of the tour and with each shot of tequila things didn't get any better. We were the only anglophones on the tour but fortunately the hispanohabantes spoke slowly and threw in a bit of Spanglish for us. We did learn that the word fábrica had nothing to do with fabric, that tequila can only be made in this region (with a couple of exceptions) and that tequila must be made from blue agave. We were shown some ovens where the agave is slowly baked before going into a series of vats. The tour lasted about 15 minutes before we landed in the tequila shop with all kinds of merchandise to buy, before we were loaded back onto our barrel-shaped bus and dropped off at the tour company tequila shop for more shots of tequila. By this stage a number of the men on the tour were only just able to stand-up. In the end, the tour turned out a bit better than we had expected but that's probably due to the tequila.
Next stop: Puerto Vallarta.Read more
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- Day 303
- Monday, May 28, 2018
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Altitude: 1,548 m
MexicoColonia Americana20°40’30” N 103°20’24” W
Gringos in Guadalajara
May 28, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
From Morelia, we travelled by bus for four-and-a-half hours to Guadalajara, the Pearl of the West. We checked into our hotel in the early afternoon and then quickly raced out to snap a few photos before sunset. We didn't realise that the sunset was so late in this part of the country. Before arriving in Guadalajara, we didn't know much about the city other than it is the second largest municipality in Mexico and is the location for one of our favourite Mexican telenovelas, Señora Acero. Almost all of the expletives/palabrotas in our vocabulary is as a result of watching this show – chingado pendejo, cabrón!
Not only did the sun stay in the sky longer but it's rays also seemed much stronger. A short walk to the historical centre, where many of the city scenes from Señora Acero were filmed, required lathering ourselves in sunscreen and stocking up on water as if we were going to end-up in the desert, dying of thirst like Burke and Wills. It definitely beats the cold weather any day. But the mild case of food poisoning was unwelcomed by Ricky, who struggled to find an appetite while Jason gorged on all sorts of tacos and ahogadas (which is basically a bread roll filled with either fried pork, chicken and/or beans with chili sauce poured over the top). Maybe a Tequila tour might help Ricky get over his sickness.
Next stop: Tequila.Read more
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- Day 301
- Saturday, May 26, 2018
- ☀️ 25 °C
- Altitude: 1,903 m
MexicoCentro Histórico19°42’18” N 101°11’42” W
Magical Morelia
May 26, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Morelia is a city in the State of Michoacán in the Guayangareo valley, about four-and-a-half-hours away from Mexico City. One of the main reasons that attracted us to the city was that it was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and was halfway between Mexico City and Guadalajara. The city, similar to Antigua, Guatemala, is filled with well-preserved colonial buildings. The main difference is that the buildings are made from stone, which gives it less of a rustic feel. As you walk through the town, you could swear that you were in a small European village rather than Central America.
Based on the reactions from the locals, it was fairly clear that the town was not high on most tourists itinerary. The State of Michoacán doesn't have the greatest reputation but the city of Morelia seemed safe as we walked around the streets at night, bypassing families as they crowded around the main cathedral to watch the lightshow and fireworks extravaganza. At one point, we even had one of the locals approach us and ask us why we had chosen to visit Morelia. Filled with pride about his city, he pointed out some of the significant attractions in the area.
We spent the next day continuing our adventures around the old town and crossed paths with an Icelandic woman. This would be the first of many chance meetings. We crossed paths in the streets as she searched for a nearby museum and then later in the day as we wandered around one of the many free museums. Small world. We swore that we weren’t stalking her.
Later in the day, we had another chance meeting but this time it was with a local couple, Tony and Israel. Immediately we hit it off with, despite the lack of language skills. We seemed to stumble through our conversation. Tony and Israel were kind enough to show us around and to share their local cuisine. As we sat in the park eating our dorilocos and papalote, we exchanged details and talked about our different cultures. It was also a great opportunity for us to practise our Spanish. We had definitely underestimated the city and could have easily spent more time admiring the city's architecture, touring the many free museums and sharing experiences with the locals.
Next stop: GuadalajaraRead more
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- Day 300
- Friday, May 25, 2018
- ☀️ 22 °C
- Altitude: 2,247 m
MexicoColonia Juárez19°25’36” N 99°9’11” W
Mexico City Part 1
May 25, 2018 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
From Flores, we had to fly back to Guatemala City for six hours before catching a flight to Mexico City. We had anticipated the airline requiring proof of onward travel so we were prepared this time with a fake booking from Mexico City to Panamá. And it worked! During the long layover, we amused ourselves, as airport itinerants, passing the time away with a few episodes of a Mexican telenovela or Peppa the Pig in Spanish. We had even set-up our own home office in the food court. Before we knew it, we had boarded our Interjet flight and were on our way to Mexico City for one night. This would be the first of many stopovers in Mexico City as we tour the different parts of Mexico. Mexico City is the hub for all domestic flights, and flying seems to be the easiest and safest way to travel across some parts of the country.
Next stop: MoreliaRead more
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- Day 299
- Thursday, May 24, 2018
- Altitude: 244 m
GuatemalaYaxha17°4’36” N 89°24’12” W
Sunset in Yaxhá
May 24, 2018 in Guatemala
Many people recommend visiting Tikal after Yaxhá to avoid disappointment. The main reason for this suggestion is that Yaxhá is much smaller and less excavated. Ricky disregarded this advice but was not disappointed. Although there are less structures at Yaxhá, it is estimated that there are more than 7000 ruins, the majority of which still lay covered underneath the jungle. The area had been occupied by the Mayans from as early as 1000 BCE but reached its height during the Early Classic period, 250 CE to 600 CE.
Ricky decided to go it alone and joined a sunset tour of Yaxhá. Normally, we avoid tours because, while tour guides need to be certified, generally most tours involve wasted time travelling around picking up other people and many guides present biased, questionable information. This tour would be no exception. It was the people on the tour that made the adventure more interesting, particularly the German Ambassador for Venezuela, who shared with us some of the heartbreaking events that are occurring in the country; he talked about the high inflation and the political issues that do not seem to be improving – not while the current President continues to remain in power. It really is such a great tragedy and has caused such devastation to so many of its countrymen and women who have had to flee.
While the guide provided some interesting information and stories, the “historical facts” seem to be clouded by his wish to portray the Mayans, his ancestors, in a very positive light and demonstrate the continuity of the ancient culture through to modern times. In many of the museums and tours of Mesoamerica and South America, there seems to be a feeling that they need to make comparisons with contemporary European cultures and place emphasis on Mayan astrology, mathematics and calendars. The guide avoided discussions about the Mayan practice of human sacrifice or denied the possibility, particularly related to the games played in the Mayan Ball Courts. While the site can be visited within an hour or so, our tour spent a great deal of time watching the sunset on top of one of the pyramids before making the two-hour journey back to Flores, much of it on a bumpy, dirt track.
Next stop: FloresRead more
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- Day 298
- Wednesday, May 23, 2018 at 12:52 PM
- Altitude: 316 m
GuatemalaTemple V17°13’12” N 89°37’24” W
Trekking through Tikal
May 23, 2018 in Guatemala
One of the main reasons for most tourists to stop in Flores is to visit the Mayan ruins at Tikal. We avoided taking a tour and opted to download the audio guide instead, which allowed us to go at our own place (and probably more historically-based than most tour guides, in our experience). The bus from Flores took about an hour and a half, but, before we set off, we heard some familiar accents at the back of the bus – we were accompanied by fellow Australians from the Sunshine Coast who had travelled through Canada and Mexico.
Tikal is situated in the middle of the jungle, which once covered the Mayan ruins. It is considered to be one of the largest urban areas of the Mayans, although new sites are being found all the time. It is estimated that there are more than 10,000 structures in the area, many of which still need to be excavated. It is believed that the Mayans may have called the site Yax Mutal and that the area was occupied at least from the fourth century BCE, reaching its “golden era” during 200 CE to 900 CE. Most of the surviving structures were built by two main Mayan rulers, father and son, Hasaw Chan Kawil and Yikin Chan Kawil, the latter seemingly wanting to outdo his predecessor. The whole complex is massive and can barely be completed in five hours. After about 20 kilometres of walking/jogging and visiting most of the excavated ruins, except for the Group H pyramids, we returned to Flores on the same bus we started out on. Ricky needed his rest so he could continue playing Indiana Jones the following day.
Next stop: YaxháRead more
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- Day 297
- Tuesday, May 22, 2018 at 3:09 PM
- Altitude: 110 m
GuatemalaIsla de Flores16°55’46” N 89°53’25” W
Fantástico Flores
May 22, 2018 in Guatemala
We caught the red-eye flight from Guatemala City to Flores, only because it was the cheapest on offer, and we didn't have enough time to travel by Bus through the central areas of Guatemala. Staying near to the airport in Guatemala City made the early start a little easier, so did the lift to the airport by our Airbnb host. Considering the flight is only an hour, this gave us extra time to spend in Flores town before heading on tours to some of the nearby Mayan ruins. Fortunately, the short, domestic flight didn't mean a washing machine with a propeller. It did include one passenger that obviously had really important messages to send via WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger before the flight. And we mean on the tarmac. We thought he was about to conference call as we sped along the runaway, and only as the nose of the plane lifted off the ground did he decide to turn his phone onto flight mode. Airline staff seemed un-phased.
We landed in Flores a little after seven in the morning and were dropped off at the hotel by around 8:30am, giving the entire day to explore the island in the middle of Lake Peten Itza. In a similar style to other colonial towns, the brightly-coloured houses contrasted with the surrounding, clear, blue lake. A small bridge connects the old colonial town with the mainland suburb of Santa Elena. The island was the last remaining Mayan state before the invasion of the Spanish Conquistadors, who robbed the indigenous people of their land and claimed it for the Spanish crown. The area continued to be under Mayan leadership until 1697 when the Spanish attacked and destroyed the settlement, driving many indigenous to take refuge in the jungle for many years. The island is so small that it takes only a few minutes to walk from one side to the other. In the three days that we stayed on the island, there probably wasn't a street or lane that we didn't traverse.
Next stop: Mexico City (via Tikal and Yaxhá)Read more
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- Day 294
- Saturday, May 19, 2018
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitude: 1,548 m
GuatemalaAntigua14°33’48” N 90°43’42” W
Little, Old Antigua
May 19, 2018 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
For over two hundred years prior to independence from Spain, the area from the southern Mexican state of Chiapas to Costa Rica was administered as one area, the Kingdom of Guatemala, with Antigua as its capital. Because of this history, Antigua is almost completely filled with buildings and houses from colonial times, some dating back to the late sixteenth century. With cobbled-stone roads and structures that seemed like they hadn't been touched in more than a century, it felt as if we had stepped back in time; that is, except for the backpackers and tourists that had overrun the town.
From Guate, as the locals call Guatemala City, there is the option to take a chicken bus or mini-van. We opted to take an Über, as it was only a little more expensive than the bus. We were fortunate to get one of the friendliest drivers that we have ever had in all of our travels. We learned that Emerson was a Muslim from Guatemala, and in a country that is about entirely Catholic, it was interesting to hear that there is a small Muslim community of about 1000 people across the country. Emerson spoke fluent English, along with Arabic and obviously Spanish. We shared each other's culture, which definitely passed the time as we got stuck in traffic on the main road between Mexico and Guatemala. He was full of praise about Australia, particularly the different produce that he had experienced in Guatemala and in the Middle East, where he had studied Arabic and Islamic law.
We had two full days to explore the colonial town of Antigua and, at one point, it seemed almost overwhelming to see so many beautiful buildings with such character and history. Scattered around the town are many churches and cathedrals that had been partially destroyed by earthquakes and now abandoned. One of the ruins included a former monastery of Santo Hermano Pedro next to the Iglesia de San Francisco, which was originally built in 1579, but suffered damage in a number of earthquakes in the eighteenth centuty. Another nearby cathedral ruin included a museum and art exhibition, the latter including some confronting and disturbing images from across the world, most of which seemed to be related to war and religion or more precisely wars over religion.
The next day, we got up reasonably early to walk to the lookout on top of Cerro de la Cruz. Normally, the climb would have been an easy feat, but after nine months of very little cardiac exercise and carrying additional kilos, known as the guanabana baby, we arrived at the top panting and puffing like a sex worker on a busy night. As we stood overlooking the town, a group of locals struck-up a conversation with us and, while the conversation wasn't deep and meaningful, we actually proved that we could string a few sentences together and get our message across. All that Peppa the Pig must be paying off! Well, that’s what we thought then. Moments like these always seem to be countered with dialogues that demonstrate that we still have a LONG way to go before we are “fluent”. Oh well, we'll keep learning and practising.
Next stop: Flores via Guatemala CityRead more
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- Day 293
- Friday, May 18, 2018
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 1,517 m
GuatemalaGuatemala City14°38’36” N 90°30’54” W
Guapos en Guate
May 18, 2018 in Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Guatemala City is a short, two-hour flight from San Jose, flying Volaris, a low-cost Mexican airline. While we waited for our flight, a woman nearby overheard our conversation about the prices of everything in Costa Rica. Airports are notorious for overcharging but prices were almost as high as at home. This started a conversation and we found out that the woman, Norma, was from Mexico but had been living in Guatemala City for a long time. She gave us the run-down on all the things to do and see in Guatemala (and Mexico). If only we had more time, but instead we would need to be satisfied with a small taste of the country.
Norma was a little worried when we said that we were staying in Zona 1, which includes the historical district. We only had one night before heading to Antigua for two nights so we wanted to be close to the historical centre so that we could get-up early and explore the colonial buildings and houses. We arrived late in the evening and it seemed that the streets were deserted, with a few dodgy-looking characters wandering around.
The next morning, the city looked like a completely different place, with people filling the streets. As we wandered around admiring the architecture and the character of the city, we were overwhelmed by the friendliness of the people – and not because they wanted to sell us something or try a scam on us. The people seemed genuinely nice and welcoming. All of the stories about Guatemala being so unsafe seemed untrue. It is true that the streets are monitored by a large number of police with full-on weaponry but we never felt threatened or unsafe, although we only spent one night before and one night after going to Antigua.
Next stop: AntiguaRead more
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- Day 292
- Thursday, May 17, 2018 at 5:11 PM
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 1,141 m
Costa RicaSan José9°56’24” N 84°4’48” W
No Way San José
May 17, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
San José was never on our itinerary but plans changed when we got to the north of Costa Rica and discovered that the political situation in Nicaragua had worsened. While there were no immediate threats to the personal security for tourists, the number of road blocks had grown across the country and the word was that it was becoming more difficult to travel through the country. Rather than risk getting stuck in Nicaragua, we decided to turn around and head to San José. The only possible way north was to fly to another country, either to El Salvador or Guatemala.
To get to San José from Playas del Coco, we needed to take a one-and-a-half-hour bus trip to Liberia, followed by another five-hour bus trip. We had been warned about San José and told to spend as little time as possible in the city. We were on guard but didn't feel that our personal safety was threatened. We did stumble upon one area that appeared a little dodgy but quickly retreated. The police presence in the area was a little reassuring. What wasn't reassuring was that the Subway manager was wearing a gun on his hip as people casually ate their sandwiches and salads. We quickly scoffed down something to eat and then returned to the safety of our hotel. Now that our plans had changed, there was a bit of re-organising that needed to occur.
The following day, we had a few hours to kill before our flight and, considering that we had only been able to find one sloth in the wild, we decided we would check-out the zoo in San José. Normally, we don't go to zoos but this one was a bit different in that all of the animals had been rescued, including one sloth. The anticipation built as we entered the zoo, walking past a variety of monkeys, coatis and a grey fox before we came upon the solitary sloth. There in an enclosure curled up in a ball was a two-toed sloth. The ball of fur could've easily been an old, disused rug from someone's lounge room. Disappointment set-in but maybe the jaguar would change the mood. Further disappointment came as the nocturnal animal (unsurprisingly) hid away in its enclosure. It was obviously never meant to be. And there will be no other opportunities to see a sloth on the next part of our adventure.
Next stop: Guatemala CityRead more
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- Day 289
- Monday, May 14, 2018
- ⛅ 33 °C
- Altitude: 15 m
Costa RicaPlaya Del Coco, Sardinal10°33’12” N 85°41’42” W
Passing Time in Playas del Coco
May 14, 2018 in Costa Rica ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C
Passing Time in Playas del Coco
From Quepos, we travelled to Playas del Coco, about 280 kilometres north. In order to get to Playas del Coco, we had to take a local, non-air conditioned bus to Puntarenas about 3 hours away, in above- 30-degree heat, and then another three-and-a-half-hour bus ride to Liberia, followed by a third one-hour bus ride to Playas del Coco. Exhausted and dripping with sweat, we arrived at our apartment, about ten minutes from the main street of the town. We then needed to go on the hunt to try and find someone to let us into our accommodation. Fortunately, the owners appeared just before we were about to give-up and set-up camp on the nearby beach.
Unfortunately, the nearby beach was one of the least attractive beaches that we have come across, with brown, dirty sand and dry, dead-looking surroundings. The ocean didn't look overly appealing either. We thought another beach around the corner, Playa Hermosa (Beautiful Beach in English) may have been a better option for a swim. But despite only being about six to seven kilometres away, it seemed that the only way to get to the beach was an overpriced taxi ride. We waited for a bus for over an hour to be told that there are only three or four buses a day. It all became too difficult, and we susected that the beach wouldn't live-up to its name anyway. So we gave up and returned home to drown our sorrows with a few alcoholic beverages.
We had expected beautiful beaches and scenery with lots of native wildlife in Costa Rica, and perhaps we had been unlucky or chosen to stay in the wrong parts of the country, but things didn't quite live up to the expectations. Not to mention the prices of accommodation and food were much higher than we had been used to in many other South American countries, particularly Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador and Colombia. The prices were more in line with the United States, and not too far off those in Australia. Maybe that is due to the fact that Playas del Coco and the surrounding area is home to many North Americans from the US and Canada, who have decided to retire and die in Costa Rica. The stop in Playas del Coco did allow us to continue to plan the next segment of our journey.
Next stop: San José.Read more
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- Day 286
- Friday, May 11, 2018
- Altitude: 9 m
Costa RicaBoca Vieja Creek9°25’60” N 84°9’54” W
¿Qué es Quepos?
May 11, 2018 in Costa Rica
Leaving David in Panama late in the afternoon, after waiting for the TicaBus for over two hours, we headed towards the border of Panama and Costa Rica. Up until this point, border crossings had been relatively straightforward, although often time-consuming. We should have realised that this next crossing may be a bit more involved when we were stopped twice on our way to the border by military police and immigration officers, who checked everyone's ID. Usually most countries aren't concerned about people exiting the country but not in Panama. Everyone was taken into a small room and told to line up behind a row of stainless steel benches that could have been the playground of a serial killer – think Dexter. The customs officer ranted something at us in Spanish but his accent was so strong and he spoke so quickly that we barely understood what he said. We understood that our bags would be inspected before we could continue to immigration to get our passports stamped. Our names were called as if we were at school and then the customs canine entered the room to inspect our bags. As there were no x-ray machines, the next inspection was a manual process with the officer rummaging through everyone's bag. After the whole ordeal, we boarded the bus again and went three hundred metres so we could go through the same process with Costa Rican officials. This time, the customs officer seemed really pissed off and wanted most of us on the bus to pay. Quite a few people, including Jason, had their bags upturned and all the contents thrown onto the inspection table. Now, if anyone has seen our bags, they are jam-packed and the task of reorganising the contents is no mean feat.
After seven hours on a bus, we were dropped off in the middle of nowhere on the side of the highway. The bus driver pointed to a car parked behind the bus and said that the guy would take us to the centre of Quepos for US$5. We took one look at the beaten up car that looked like it had been stolen, taken for a joyride and now was going to take us back to Dexter's workshop so that we could be cut-up into small pieces and thrown into the Pacific Ocean. The driver got out of the car so that we could place our bags in the boot but to do so he needed to open it with a screwdriver. The back door was almost falling off and, not unsurprisingly, there were no seatbelts. The price of the journey also seemed to have increased in the meantime to US$6.
When we arrived to our apartment, we realised that none of the properties had numbers and our so-called taxi driver had to ask several people if they knew where the terracotta-coloured apartments were located. We eventually found what we thought was the correct location but not only did the property not have any numbers there was no bell or way to get the owner's attention and we didn't have any phone reception. It was late in the evening, but fortunately there were a few people in the streets. Ricky went in search of someone who could contact our host, while Jason stood at the front of the property yelling out “hola”. After about five minutes, we were let into our accommodation and we could finally rest.
The following day, we explored the small town that is home to a population of around 22,000. We had expected the images seen in tourist brochures about Costa Rica that show beautiful beaches and rainforests. In the main centre of town, there weren't any beaches as such, just the shoreline and marina. We did stumble across some interesting wildlife hanging out alongside the roads, including colourful iguanas.
One of the main attractions in the area is the Parque National Manuel Antonio, a 1,983 hectare nature reserve with supposedly 109 species of mammals and 184 species of birds. It is named by Forbes as one of the 12 most beautiful national parks. Our main reason for visiting was to go in search of brown-throated three-toed sloths and Hoffmann's two-toed sloths. We've been searching for these allusive creatives for a good part of our journey throughout South America and Central America. We were positive that this was going to be the moment that we would get a chance to get-up and close, two or three toes crossed. But alas, we wandered the national park for hours and found not one. All that we got was a sore neck from looking up at the high trees. We knew that they were mainly nocturnal animals but that they have to come down from the trees every eight days to defecate … and we didn't even see a shitting sloth! But we did see lots of cute monkeys jumping from tree to tree, playing with each other or searching for lice on each other. One specie of monkey, the Howler Monkey, could be heard in the distance as they howled amongst the trees, producing a sound that was more like a pack of dogs fighting.
After a brief swim at Manuel Antonio beach, we went in search of sloths one last time before heading home. Although nicer than the shorelines in Quepos, for two Aussie boys, it's hard to beat Australian beaches. We'd conjured up imagines similar to the Maldives but it wasn't quite the same. It was at this time point that the skies opened up and torrential rain fell. We also thought that we may have also spotted a sloth in a tree. Well, it was a greyish blob sitting in the tree. After eavesdropping in on a conversation of one of the tour groups we ascertained that it was a rare stick bird and not a sloth. During the conversation, we also overheard one of the American tourists say that aliens had built the pyramids in Egypt and in the Americas so that that they knew where to return in the future. And she was deadly serious. With that, we exited the park, completely drenched from head to toe like a drowned sloth. Disappointed. Oh well, we'll have to continue our search at our next destination.
Next stop: Playas del Coco via Puntarenas and Liberia.Read more
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- Day 285
- Thursday, May 10, 2018 at 4:24 PM
- 🌧 27 °C
- Altitude: 56 m
PanamaDavid8°25’42” N 82°25’30” W
David without Goliath
May 10, 2018 in Panama ⋅ 🌧 27 °C
From Panama City, we travelled seven hours by bus to the third largest city in Panama, David. Named after the biblical King David, the city of around 150,000 is a popular stopover for travellers going between Costa Rica and Panamá. During the journey, the bus was stopped twice for inspection by immigration and the Panamanian army requesting to see our passports to ensure we weren't illegal immigrants. Both the immigration officer and the army officer had problems trying to find the Panamanian immigration stamp in our passports amongst all the others that we've collected over the past nine months.
We arrived in David and quickly realised that there was very little to see and do in the town. But at least we weren't down and out in David or had to battle Goliath to pass through to our next destination. The Old Town had been abandoned many years ago and only a few colonial buildings, a church and a park remain. The park, whilst being an important historical site where the first battle of the Thousand Day war broke out, is now a rundown park away from the main commercial part of the city. Fortunately, we were kept entertained by the hotel owner's daughter, who now lives in Quebec but returns home a few times a year to help her elderly mother. It made up for the dingy accommodation and the screeching parrots that woke us at the crack of dawn. Parrots might be pretty but we wish they could keep things to themselves at least until a reasonable hour. Luckily, it was only one night to break up the journey as we continue through Panama and onto Costa Rica.
Next stop: QueposRead more
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- Day 282
- Monday, May 7, 2018
- ⛅ 27 °C
- Altitude: 121 m
PanamaAlbrook "Marcos A. Gelabert" International Airport8°59’18” N 79°32’54” W
Prancing Around Panama City
May 7, 2018 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
With only a short stay in Panamá, we booked an early flight from Cartagena to maximise our time on the isthmus. So rising early and catching an Über to the airport with plenty of time to spare, we were faced with probably the most unhelpful staff member that we have ever experienced at check-in. After collecting our details, she requested proof of our onward journey as per the requirements by Panamanian immigration. We proceeded to inform her that we had a ticket to return to Australia from LA in July, which would prove that we would not overstay in Panamá. Apparently, this was unacceptable and she would only allow us to fly if we could show proof of exiting Panamá. Now with only about 45 minutes before boarding, we quickly scrambled to come up with a solution. Our intention was to catch a bus to Costa Rica after Panamá but now we were forced to leave the country by a certain date and wouldn't allow us the freedom to change our plans, if we decided we wanted to spend extra time in a particular place. Most tourists, like us who are travelling for long periods of time simply mock up fake airline or bus tickets to get through the immigration bureaucracy. We hadn't bothered going to this extent because we could demonstrate that we would leave the country within 90 days. When we arrived in Panama City, the immigration officer didn't even ask how long we were staying let alone ask for proof of our onward journey. So at the end of the day, we needn't have booked our bus trip to Costa Rica and it was just the interpretation of immigration requirements by Copa Airlines. Needless to say, we will never fly Copa Airlines again.
Once we settled into our accommodation, we wondered around the El Cangrejo area, admiring the unique architecture of some of the skyscrapers in the city. The downtown area looked modern and clean, and much more like an American city than anything else we had seen in South America.
The following day, we headed to the Panamá canal, probably the most iconic attraction in the country. While neither of us are engineering nerds, it was actually quite interesting watching a large cargo ship enter into the lock and see it rise as the lock was flooded with water. Prior to the creation of the canal, ships either needed to sail to the bottom of South America, which took more time and was more dangerous, or the ships needed to be transported across land. The history behind the canal is almost as fascinating as the actual mechanics behind it all. As part of the museum that is attached to the Miraflores Lock, there are a number of artefacts from the period when the canal was being constructed as well as a machine that supposedly calculates the amount of water in your body. Apparently Ricky is 70% water and Jason is 78%. So, we're not fat - it's just water retention, probably guanabana juice retention to be precise.
Three days was not long enough to experience all of the wonders of the city. But we did manage to fit in a quick tour of the Old town and Parque Natural Metropolitano. The old town, similar to many other Latin American cities, is filled with colonial-style buildings, many of which are in need of repair. Afterwards, we headed for the Parque in search of sloths, as we had heard that there were some living in the middle of the urban park. The woman at the nature reserve was extremely helpful in pointing out the most likely places to see a sloth. And just as she advised, near a wooden bridge and small pond of water, high in the trees was a sloth clinging onto a tree. Unfortunately, the sloth was so high-up the tree that they were a mere speck in the photo. We continued the hike in the hope that others might be viewed up-close. But alas, we ended our hike without seeing another. We did see lots of turtles, a few agoutis and a very cute woodpecker pecking wood. Maybe next time we will have more luck at our next destination.
Next stop: DavidRead more
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- Day 279
- Friday, May 4, 2018 at 12:30 PM
- ⛅ 30 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
ColombiaCaño de Los Tramposos10°59’18” N 74°47’24” W
Brief Visit to Barranquilla
May 4, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
While we were in Cartagena, we decided to take a day trip to Barranquilla, about 115 kilometres away. The bus was small and while there were no live chickens on-board, we were cramped in the bus as if we were chickens or sardines. With no leg room for two tall gringos, we spent the next three hours trying to get comfortable and avert deep vein thrombosis.
Barranquilla is the largest city in the northern Caribbean coast of Colombia, but it's main claim to fame is that it is home to Sofía Vergara and Shakira (and our friend Steph). Just prior to our visit, Sofía Vergara had returned home causing a media sensation. We went in search of Shakira but could only find buses promoting the city's love for the singer. A bit like our ongoing search for the ever-allusive sloth, we left the city without catching sight of Sofía or Shakira (and Steph exited a long-time ago).
Next stop: Panamá City via CartagenaRead more



































































































































































































































