Kenya
Nakuru

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    • Day 2

      Karibu Kenia

      November 28, 2022 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Nach unserer 12-stündigen Anreise von Frankfurt über Addis Abeba (so haben wir es doch noch kurz nach Äthiopien geschafft) kommen wir einigermaßen geschafft aber glücklich in Nairobi am Flughafen an. Dort holt uns Andi mit einem weißem Subaru Forester ab, der schon ordentlich nach Abenteuer aussieht - die Reise kann losgehen!
      Nairobis Stadtzentrum lernen wir vom Expresshighway auf Stelzen aus kennen bevor wir außerhalb der Stadt das Escarpement nach Naivasha hinauffahren von dem aus man einen eindrucksvollen Blick auf das Great Rift Valley (Ostafrikanischer Grabenbruch, bei dem zwei tektonische Platten auseinander driften) haben. 25 Grad scheinen vielen hier zu kalt zu sein, um die Wollmütze abzusetzen und so sehen wir viele Menschen am Wegesrand in Winterkleidung. Bei der halben Umrundung des großen Naivashasees auf dem Weg zu unserer Unterkunft sehen wir Zebras, Antilopen, Warzenschweine und drei Giraffen, die direkt neben der Straße fressen.
      Wir übernachten im Camp Carnelly‘s, dessen schöner Garten direkt am See liegt. Vor unserer Hütte wachsen 3-5m hohe Salbeibäume in denen sich bunte Vögel tummeln.
      Am nächsten Tag besteigen wir den Kraterring des Mt Longonot Vulkans und essen in Andis Lieblingsrestaurant in Naivasha (Mother‘s Kitchen) zu Mittag bevor wir uns auf dem Markt mit Papaya, Mango, Passionsfrüchen Bananen und weiteren Früchten, deren Namen ich nicht kenne, eindecken.
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    • Day 42

      Up to the volcano again!

      July 8, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      The best medicine for a cold is a serious hike - this what people told me here seeing me sneezing and feeling down since I came. What can I possibly do wrong, let's try it! A little bit late I arrived at the entry of Mt Longolot National Park. Not very high, but still challenging dormant volcano is one of the main attractions of the region. And not only for Tourist - I met crowds of local students, school trips but also older folks very willing to chat. So almost without noticing I got to the crater, where the actual hike started, up to the top of the highest point of the crater. It was really beautiful and rewarding "warm up" before the upcoming Mt Kenya trip. And unique opportunity to experience locals hiking, exchanging food and sorties.Read more

    • Day 117

      Driving to Lake Naivasha

      August 31, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      We were up at 4.15am and were ready and waiting when Omondi turned up at 5. We had no breakfast or coffee before leaving. We were giving Markson a lift back to his village. It was raining. Omondi drove FAST!! It was African massage at its best! I remembered that I’d read people who were sleeping when they were involved in a car or train crash were more likely to survive, so I tried to relax and not watch the road ahead – just in case! 😂

      We dropped Markson off and tipped him – he had done a good job as our guide.

      We then drove back to Narok. At 7am, we stopped for breakfast. We had omelette, sausage, and coffee. Omondi had told us that coffee wouldn’t be available and that we would have to wait an hour until we stopped again! He seemed surprised when we asked for it anyway and got it!! Breakfast did the trick. I actually felt awake after eating it!

      As we continued our journey, Omondi discussed his views on African politics with us. They were a little controversial, so we concentrated on the views of the floor of the Rift Valley out of the window!

      Our next stop was at a curio and coffee stop for toilets and for Omondi to have tea. We had thirty minutes to look around. I had a coffee and bought an interesting magazine called ‘Old Africa’, full of stories about Kenya in colonial times.

      Just up the road, we stopped again! This time, it was to have the car windows washed! It seemed like Omondi was wasting time. We were questioning why we’d left at the ungodly hour of 5am!!

      We drove through the busy town of Mai Mahia. I shot a video here.

      We passed Mount Longonot, the only active volcano in the Rift Valley. It last erupted in 1860, killing hundreds of Masai and earning the nickname, ‘Hell’s Gate’. In front of the mountain, we could see a railway newly built by the Chinese. It was completed a couple of years ago, but so far, no trains have run on it.

      We were heading for Lake Naivasha, the only freshwater lake in the Rift Valley. Seismic activity under the water creates steam which is harnessed to make electricity. Around 45 megawatts are generated.

      The lake has a surface area of 198 square kilometres. It is surrounded by a swamp that covers an area of 64 square kilometres, but this can vary largely depending on rainfall. It is situated at an altitude of 1,884 metres. The lake has an average depth of 6 metres, with the deepest area being at Crescent Island, where it is 30 metres.
      Lake Naivasha is home to a variety of types of wildlife, including between 250 and 300 different species of bird and a population of around 1000 hippos. There are six varieties of fish in the lake, including catfish, tilapia, and salmon. However, the predominant species is now the common carp, which was accidentally introduced to the lake in 2001.

      Between 1937 and 1950, the lake was used as a landing place for flying boats on the Imperial Airways passenger and mail route from Southampton, UK, to South Africa. Joy Adamson, the author of Born Free, lived on the shores of the lake in the mid-1960s.

      Before visiting the lake, we headed to our hotel, Taphe Guest Resort, in Naivasha town. We arrived there at about 11.15am. The upper floors of the hotel are still under construction, but our ground floor room was nice enough. We’ve certainly stayed in worse places! After settling in, we were served lunch in the garden at 12.30pm. There was an avocado starter (Mark ate mine as well as his own!), chicken with egg fried rice and salad for mains, and fresh fruit for dessert. It was all very nice. It appears that we are the only guests in the hotel!
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    • Day 117

      A boat trip on Lake Naivasha

      August 31, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      After lunch, Omondi drove us to Lake Naivasha Resort to catch a boat across the lake to the national park on Crescent Island, which is actually a peninsula, not an island 😂.

      Omondi introduced us to Rastaman, our boatman, and left us to it. We were kitted out with life jackets and set off on the hour-long boat trip to the island. We were interested to see local fishermen perched on the submerged stumps of dead trees killed when water levels rose a few years ago. In some cases, it looked like they were sitting on the surface of the lake! Rastaman told us they stay out there for hours at a time. Other fishermen were setting Seine nets, just like they do in Tobago. He also pointed out the public beach with sheep being driven along it.

      Rastaman proved to be very good at pointing out bird species as we went along. He also threw tilapia to encourage the African fish eagles to swoop down and get them. This was a successful ruse on a couple of occasions, but I wasn’t quick enough to capture it on video. Apart from the eagles, we saw:

      • A maribou stork
      • Lots of pelicans
      • Egyptian geese
      • Eurasian coots
      • Numerous ducks of various unknown varieties!
      • Some great cormorants
      • A long-tailed cormorant
      • A giant kingfisher
      • African jacanas
      • A blacksmith plover
      • A pied kingfisher
      • Several sacred ibis
      • African snipe
      • An Egyptian egret
      • A few African spoonbills
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    • Day 117

      A walking safari in Lake Naivasha NP

      August 31, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      When we reached land, we met our guide, Joseph. He was taking us on a walking safari. I was absolutely amazed by how close we got to the animals! Joseph assured us that we weren’t in a zoo and that the animals were free to come and go in and out of Lake Naivasha National Park, as well as in and out of Hell’s Gate. He said that there are times when animals go off for weeks at a time, but that they usually reappear, especially during the dry season when they are drawn towards the water.

      We began our walk by the water’s edge. We got up close to a waterbuck. Joseph told us that they feed on the water hyacinth that grows in and next to the lake. He said that they are good swimmers and that they protect themselves from predators by taking to the water and secreting a substance through their skin that makes their coat waterproof. In the unlikely event that they are caught, in the moments before death, they produce an enzyme that makes their meat taste bitter. It doesn’t save them, but it helps other waterbucks. The killer would not prey on another of their species, and he or she would communicate to others that waterbuck meat tastes bad!

      Joseph also pointed out a number of different birds, including:

      • A goliath heron
      • Grey herons
      • Godwits
      • Yellow-billed storks
      • Glossy ibis – apparently, this is a new species to the lake, having only appeared a few days ago

      As we continued our walk, we got really close to:

      • Zebras
      • Masai giraffes eating thistles!
      • Impalas
      • Superb starlings
      • Greenwood hoopoes
      • Wildebeest
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    • Day 117

      Adorable giraffes!

      August 31, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Joseph explained that hefty fines and long prison sentences have reduced poaching in the park to almost zero.
      We spent a really interesting hour and a half with Joseph. He walked us back to the boat where we tipped him and rejoined Rastaman for the much quicker return trip to the mainland.

      We got there at 4.15pm. Omondi was nowhere to be seen! I messaged him but got no reply. We had no choice but to sit and wait. He turned up at 5pm to take us back to our hotel. There, we spent the time before dinner editing photos.

      Dinner was at 7pm. It was OK, but not as nice as lunch. We had French bean soup followed by beef stew, which was as tough as old boots, served with mashed potato. Dessert was the usual fresh fruit.

      We were in bed by 9.30pm.
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    • Day 118

      Lake Nakaru National Park

      September 1, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ 🌩️ 23 °C

      We weren’t leaving so early this morning, so I spent the hour before breakfast editing photos. We both take so many every day that sorting them out is a full-time job! Breakfast was at 8am – sausages, eggs, fruit, coffee, juice, and toast. Omondi picked this time to tell us we would have to pay again for today’s visit to Nakaru National Park and then wait for a refund later for the money we had already paid to go to Amboseli! We hadn’t changed the itinerary! It was his suggestion!! We were not best pleased, but at this late hour, had little choice but to comply. So, I paid another US$125, and we set off.

      Omondi had told us it would only take an hour to reach the park and that we would have a whole-day game drive. Neither of these things proved to be true! We drove through Naivasha town and then stopped at an out-of-town shopping mall for Omondi to buy snacks for himself. His five minutes turned into 20!!

      We drove past Delamere Park and Farm, which Omondi told us belongs to HM Queen Elizabeth II, and that trespassers are shot dead on sight! He also said that planes take off twice a day to deliver fresh meat, dairy products, and vegetables to Her Majesty (or King Charles, as it would be now!). This all sounded very implausible! When I fact checked later, there was no mention of any royal connection with the farm! The British-born owner, 89-year-old Hugh George Cholmondeley, 5th Baron Delamere, is a British peer who was educated at Eton and Cambridge, but that is as far as it goes! I think Omondi’s idea of guiding is to take any grain of truth he has and then make the rest up!!

      Our next landmark was Lake Elementaita. Local legend has it that God dug it out in one day using a spade. He used the earth he removed to create a nearby mountain!

      We stopped for fuel in the town of Nakaru, where it seemed like every other building is a church! We then entered Lake Nakaru National Park through Nderit Gate. There were problems with Omondi’s paperwork, so we were delayed further. He told us that all the drivers were complaining about the entry system. We saw no evidence of this. Every other vehicle seemed to get through without issue!

      We eventually got into the park at around 11.40am. It was a very different landscape from other parks we have visited. There were huge swathes of forest. It was difficult to spot wildlife through such dense bush. There were millions of butterflies, though! There are tree-climbing lions in the park, as well as ground ones. This means that leopard numbers are low as they have to compete with the stronger lions.
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    • Day 118

      Animal sightings in Nakaru National Park

      September 1, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Omondi had opted not to have a guide in the park and was using an app on his phone to find out where the animals were. He was also eating crisps as soon as we entered the park! He didn’t seem that keen to be there and had little knowledge about the wildlife. He soon realised that, after being to 23 other parks in southern Africa, we knew more than he did!

      Having said all this, we did see animals. We saw:

      • Warthogs
      • Antelopes
      • Waterbucks
      • A herd of impala
      • A white rhino mum and her two-year old baby who was suckling. There were oxpeckers on their backs.
      • Zebras
      • Black rhino – these were so far away that we had to take Omondi’s word that they were black rhino! Later, we stopped where several other vehicles were, and Omondi told us that lions had just killed a black rhino. Through the binoculars, we could see a carcass, but it looked more like a wildebeest than a black rhino. Also, it didn’t look like a recent kill!
      • Buffalos
      • A hyena pup sheltering from the sun under a tree
      • Tree climbing lions – this was a new species for us. We didn’t get a great view as they were sleeping under a tree quite a distance from our vehicle. We could, however, make out the markings on their backs, which distinguish them from ground lions, and make them look more like leopards.
      • Baboons
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    • Day 118

      A lunch stop without lunch!

      September 1, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      We drove past the park’s airstrip where a private aircraft had just landed. Wealthy tourists spend a lot of money to see the wildlife this way.

      We stopped for a 30-minute lunch stop at a waterfall. The catch was that Omondi hadn’t arranged a packed lunch for us or told us that we would need to bring our own! Luckily, we had some fruit and snacks with us. We walked to the waterfall and had a chat to a busload of schoolchildren who were visiting.

      After our break, we continued with our game drive. We saw lots of giraffes, zebras, impalas, a pair of waterbuck, and baboons with their babies, all in the same place. Omondi was surprised that we wanted to stop and take photos. I think he thought we wouldn’t want to as we had seen them all before. We tried to explain that it was a different experience, and therefore a different photo, to see them all together. Throughout the drive, we missed some good shots because Omondi didn’t stop at all, or didn’t stop completely, or didn’t stop for long enough! It was really frustrating! It’s not a problem we’ve had with any other guide in any other park.
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    • Day 118

      A visit to Lake Nakuru

      September 1, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      We then visited the lake where we saw:

      • Thousands of flamingos
      • Hundreds of pelicans
      • Herons
      • Egyptian geese
      • Cormorants

      From the lake, we exited the park. On our way out, we saw the mum and baby white rhino from earlier drinking. Omondi wasn’t prepared for us to stop to photograph them. He was in a rush to leave! We actually went through the gate at 3.50pm – hardly the full-day game drive we were promised!

      We drove straight to the hotel, arriving just before 5. We checked in and went to our room to do some posts before dinner. Staff had to go out to get beers for Mark, as there were none in the hotel! When they brought them back, they were warm. TIA!!

      Dinner was underwhelming. It was the ubiquitous ‘tough as old boots’ beef stew with potatoes and spinach, and watermelon slices for dessert. The potatoes were sauteed with onions and were delicious. They were the only good thing about the meal, but there weren’t enough of them to go round!

      Omondi joined us after we’d eaten to tell us that breakfast is at 8 tomorrow. We’ll leave at 8.30am, and I should get my US$105 (US$125 minus charges!) refund on Monday or Tuesday. We will see!!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Nakuru, Nakuru District

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