Egypt for 1 Month, then Mexico

December 2022 - April 2023
A 114-day adventure by Ladyandtramp Read more
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  • Background Regarding our Winter Travels

    April 10, 2023 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Each of our travel blogs have included an introduction similar to the one below with a new add-on at the bottom regarding new plans. This introduction has been growing and growing but I like to keep this going as a summary of our life’s major adventures. I have decided to add this to the end of the book as it is too long for an introduction! This year's winter trip is number 19!

    Here's how we caught the travel bug...

    In 1999, after taking a one year leave of absence from our teaching jobs, selling our house and purging most of what we owned, Chris and I packed our bags into a van and headed to Zamora, Michoacan, Mexico, to teach English to Mexican students. Our youngest daughter Caitlin had already left home to perform for a year with a traveling group called Up With People. Our other daughter, Amy had studied Spanish at school, so she traveled to Mexico with us, helping us navigate our way to Zamora. Shortly after we got to our destination, she flew home and started her 3rd year of university. She lived in a townhouse, with two other students, that we had purchased to store 1 roomful of our valuables and to have a place to 'come home to' when we returned. During that year that we taught in Mexico, we fell in love with its daily blue skies and sun, and the latino lifestyle. We promised ourselves, that in our retirement we would return.

    Four years later, after retiring from teaching, we went back to Mexico. We spent four months on the shores of Lake Chapala in Mexico, in a beautiful house where we made lots of wonderful friends.

    The second year we backpacked through Central America from Guatemala to Panama taking a puppet theatre and puppets with us.

    The third year we focused on learning more about the Mayan culture by spending a month in the Yucatan Peninsula, a month in Guatemala, a month backpacking from San Cristobal, in the Chiapas, up the Pacific coast of Mexico to Puerto Vallarta. Along the way, we had several visits with friends. Finally, we ended up once more in Ajijic on Lake Chapala, where we stayed for a month.

    The fifth year, we felt that we wanted to venture a little further south so we did something a little different. We headed to South America following a three week layover in Guatemala where we spent Christmas and New Year's eve with our daughters and one of our future son-in-laws. We took and distributed 300 pairs of reading glasses, continued to learn Spanish and volunteered for two organizations in needy communities in both Guatemala and Ecuador. We helped to paint a huge mural on the side of a coliseum with artist, Susan Shanley. The highlight of our trip was the creation of a Grand Circus of Puppets which was performed by all the children in a Biblioteca (library), as well as 25 volunteers, in Banos, Ecuador.

    Year Six was a favourite of ours. We spent a month in Peru, three months in Bolivia and then returned to Peru to see Machu Picchu. Because we had enjoyed volunteering in the Arte del Mundo library in Ecuador the previous year, we looked for another library to help out in Bolivia. We were able to find another wonderful, non-profit organization called Biblioworks, based in the capital city of Sucre.

    <a href="http://biblioworks.org/&quot; target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://biblioworks.org/</a&gt;

    The North Carolina group who runs this project provides disadvantaged Bolivian communities, in the vicinity of Sucre, with access to books and learning materials. Since 2005, they have been able to build 12 community libraries, support teachers and students, and put countless books in the hands of adults in both North and South America. The eighth library opened when we were there and we took part in an exciting inauguration with our amazing 'boss' from South Carolina, Matt Lynn. What a wonderful organization.

    Our very good friends, Pat and Gail, who we met in Mexico in 1999/2000, joined us in February and March. Due to the generosity of many of our good Ontario friends, we took down 6 puppets which were used in a puppet show, puppet-making workshop materials (so that 200 children can make simple rod puppets), an educational parachute for games, and 200 pairs of
    reading glasses. Four classes at Greensville Public School, near Dundas, Ontario, prepared artwork which we took to Bolivia as part of an art exchange. Fun!

    The next three years were spent back in Mexico. Year Seven was in Ajijic, helping at the Tepehua Community Centre. A fantastic lady, Moonyeen King, was trying to help out the extremely poor people in this part of Chapala by forming a centre where people could eat a hot meal and have a shower once a week, get medical aid and feel that they were part of a community. We helped out by distributing food, playing with the kids, performed a Xmas puppet show and organized the painting of a huge mural on the side of the building, once again led by artist, Susan Shanley. We also travelled to the beautiful Sierra Gorda where we met two very special people, Margarita and Juan, as well as a traveling group of puppeteers. Two hundred pairs of reading glasses were also distributed.

    Year Eight saw us in Queretaro, Mexico - a beautiful old city, just on the west side of Mexico City. There we studied more Spanish and helped out a young puppeteer, Diego Ugalde. Once again we traveled into the amazing Sierra Gorda and then went north to ride the El Chepe train in the Copper Canyon in Chihuahua.

    Year Nine. Back to Mexico, but this time in a city south of Mexico City, Cuernavaca. We stayed in a lovely house with beautiful gardens, hidden behind high walls. We started this trip by flying to Manzanillo and spending a week on the ocean with our friends, Pat and Gail. Then off to Cuernavaca where they joined us for a week. We flew to Puerto Escondido for Chris' birthday and saw our friend from Panama, Scott, as well as cottage neighbours, Dale and Michelle. We helped out a young artist who was setting up a business in Cuernavaca. From him we learned how to make traditional Papel Piedra dolls. In March, we flew to Los Angeles and did something that we have never done before. We rented an ESCAPE campervan for a month and camped through South California, Arizona, Utah and Nevada. Fabulous!

    Year Ten had a big change... Where did we go, and why? Well, I happened to read a blog entry entitled, "Ten Reasons You Should visit Namibia" by fellow Canadian travelers, Kevin and Ruth, and I was hooked.

    http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/ladyandtra…

    I easily convinced Chris, and without much effort, in the way of coaxing, enticed our friends, Pat and Gail, to join us in Windhoek, Namibia? We went off on a camping safari trip extraordinaire in Namibia and Botswana! Of course, we took puppets for a travelling puppet show, ukuleles and a parachute to give away to a needy community. Pat and Gail flew home in February and we had a few weeks to kill so flew to Capetown, South Africa, where we rented a car and drove a couple of thousand kilometers along the beautiful Indian Ocean coast staying in guesthouses along the way.

    After that amazing trip, we had to rethink where we would like to spend a winter and we came up with a crazy plan.

    When we were in Ecuador, we heard stories from travellers about the thrill of sailing through the San Blas Islands in Panama and the rugged beauty of Colombia.

    So Year Eleven in 2015, was the year that we saw for ourselves what others have been talking about. But Colombia wasn't the only place we visited. The Yucatan and Cuba were also in the picture!

    President Obama recently made the decision to allow Americans to legally visit Cuba and we know that major changes will take place. We wanted to see the real Cuba before those changes took place. It was an eye-opener.

    So, as we ask ourselves every summer, "Where will we spend our winter this year?".

    We are in good shape, physically, and are still up for some adventure so for Year Twelve in 2016, we decided to go back to Colombia and see some of the beautiful areas that we did not get a chance to see on last year's trip. The difference will be that we will meet up with our good friends Pat and Gail and do some parts of this trip together. Ahhh, more Colombian coffee, birds plus the Amazon and good times with our travelling friends.

    Year Thirteen, 2017. We have missed visiting Mexico but still want to continue heading south in South America. So this year, we will spend a month in Uruguay (and a few days in Buenos Aires) and then fly to Mexico City. We have rented a beautiful house for 3 months in Patzcuaro, Mexico. Dear Texan friends live there. We haven’t seen them for at least ten years. It will be a wonderful reunion. Pat and Gail may also come down for a visit and we hope our daughters will have the time to come down too. (These plans sadly didn’t happen.)

    Year Fourteen, 2018/19. A big change in plans this year. We are heading to Portugal! Not just the mainland, but also to the lovely islands of Madeira and several of the Azore Islands. In fact, our daughters and their families have already bought their plane tickets to Sao Miguel in the Azores and will be joining us during the March Break. What fun we will have!

    Year Fifteen, 2019/20. Back to Mexico where we will spend Christmas and New Years close to Puerto Vallarta, in the tiny mountain village of Mascota, then three weeks with our travelling buddies from Bellingham, Washington, Pat and Gail, in the Pacific beach village of Chacala. But that’s not all. At the end of January, we will fly to New Zealand for an action-packed, two month road trip. A great place to travel for Chris’ 70th!

    Well, that trip was cut short by 2 weeks, when the Canadian government told travellers to return home due to the spread of the Corona Virus. In 2021, we did not go on a winter trip. It was the first winter that we stayed home since 2004.

    Year Sixteen, 2022. In October 2021, we took a wonderful weeklong trip to Vancouver Island with our two older grandkids, Audrey (9) and Cal (8) to visit Great Grandma Peg for her 99th birthday. We rented a motorhome in Victoria and drove to Courtenay where she lives. Totem poles, whale watching, hiking through tall trees, oh my!

    We felt that we needed to get back into the saddle and spend the winter in a warm and sunny place. Our longtime friend Jeremy Ament said that he was building a house in Majahua, Guerrero, Mexico on the Pacific Ocean. If we wanted to rent it, we could. We jumped on his offer and for Year Seventeen, we glamped in his beautiful house with a pool in the jungle, far from Covid sicknesses. A little paradise for Connie’s upcoming 70th birthday!

    Year Eighteen, 2023. Once again, we took a short trip to Vancouver Island with Chris’ older sister Barbara. Chris’ mom turned 100 on October 7, so we surprised her with a birthday party at Chris’s twin sister’s place in Bowser. What a wonderful party that turned out to be!

    In December 2023, off we went to a bucket list country for one month- Egypt! We returned to Ontario in mid January for a week and then headed back to Mexico to rest and to meet up with our good friends, Pat and Gail, in Chacala, Mexico.

    P.S. We are still contemplating several possibilities for 2024 - Mongolia, Spain, Malawi, and maybe we would go back to see more of the Azores, ....

    NOTE: The blog will be written and left in draft form. The way that you see it, is the way it was written, full of typos and bad grammar but good feelings. Lol.
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  • Home Again

    April 3, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    So, here we are again. On our way home, after being away for 4 months. To clarify, we did come home to Fergus for a week between our one month trip to Egypt and our three month trip to a Mexico. Anyways, we are happy to be heading home again.

    After my birthday, we spent all of Sunday preparing for the trip home, reading and relaxing in our lovely hotel. The two week Semana Santa holidays had just begun and the town was filling up with Mexican tourists. A busy time!

    On Sunday, we arranged for a taxi to take us to the Puerto Vallarta airport - a 1 1/2 hour car ride vs a 4 hour bus ride plus taxis at either end. A local restaurant, that made us fantastic ice tea and Cubano drinks during our stay, offered to make us club sandwiches for the flight - ready at 12:30 pm. We discarded some of our clothes and shoes and planned on taking them to the local social services offices (DIF) or church. Dinner was at Tony’s Taco stand. We went to bed early.

    On Monday, we took our time getting packed. Then we went to see Louis, the 39 Tacos chef to say goodbye and wish him the best with his new restaurant. We had had our first dinner in S.S. with him and now we’re eating our last breakfast in S.S. with him. We had wonderful omelettes stuffed with mushrooms, cheese and spinach. Refried beans and toasted pita bread were on the side. As a special treat, he prepared sliced strawberries on honey with walnuts/pecans and toasted pumpkin seeds. So good! It was sad to say goodbye to him and his pup, Momo.

    Our taxi driver arrived right at 1 pm. It was Angel! The police officer that had driven me to the clinic when I hurt my knee! How great was that!

    So we are leaving San Sebastián… During the three weeks that we were there, a lot happened and we became friends with a many of the townspeople. Lucky us.

    The drive to the airport took 1 1/2 hours through lovely countryside. The whole process through the Puerto Vallarta was easy. Actually, the trip home was easy and without hassle. We wore our masks on the plane along with a few others. Red Car was there to meet us at the Hamilton airport at 1 a.m. on Tuesday. it was pouring rain but fairly warm. We got home at 2:30 and jumped into our own beds. All good.

    On Thursday, we tested for Covid and I was positive. Luckily, Chris was negative. At least, we could deal with it at home where I had some good reading materials while I isolated.
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  • Connie’s Birthday Dinner at Villa Nogal

    April 1, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    There are several really good restaurants in San Sebastián. Two have been mentioned or recommended, time after time. One is called El Jardin Nebuloso and the other is called Villa Nogal. Both are a short walk away near the entrance to the town.

    El Jardin Nebuloso has a unique concept where each dish is a “journey through the mountains through the season”. They take the ingredients that nature provides directly from their farm in the western Sierra Madre to create their three menus:

    - Traditional dishes
    - Snacks to eat with drinks from their extensive drink list
    - And a Tasting Menu that “surprises all the senses”.

    The restaurant is located within a beautiful garden and the service is supposed to be excellent.

    Villa Nogal has been suggested several times by Mexicans who live here as being their favourite place to eat a special meal. We made the final decision to eat there and we were not disappointed! What an amazing place!

    First of all, the walk inside the property alone sets the stage for an amazing experience. We felt like we were transported to another place and time and as we got closer to the restaurant it got better and better. The views were breathtaking as we walked into the dining area and looked out over the countryside. And that was just the start.

    I ordered white wine and Chris ordered a margarita. For starters, we had the smoked salmon with asparagus in a mustard dressing. Yum. The salmon and asparagus was so fresh and tasty I would have been happy just eating that. But they also brought in a delicious hot tapenade made of black olives and pesto to put on tiny hot rolls. I loved it that we never felt rushed but the waiter was super attentive.

    For the main course, I ordered chicken cordon blue and Chris had the short ribs. Both meals were very flavourful and presented beautifully. The grilled vegetables and whipped potatoes just melted in our mouths. So good.!

    Their website advertises that the “exquisite dishes are made with unique recipes based on fresh ingredients and natural products. The best view of the valley and a beautiful natural landscape are the perfect combination in a place where attention to detail and spending a pleasant time are the most valuable to us.” Nothing is falsely advertised here!

    We certainly enjoyed our night out and our visit to this special restaurant was an unexpected and unforgettable experience in little San Sebastián del Oeste,

    Thank you Chris for the all round amazing birthday!
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  • La Bufa for My Birthday

    March 31, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    In the distance the Cerro de La Bufa Mountain towers high above the town. Everywhere we go, we can see it. It is a huge rocky outcrop 8,200’ high and for some reason both of us wanted to go up to its summit and see what San Sebastian’s number one attraction was all about.

    So, Chris came up with the perfect birthday present for me. He arranged to have a vehicle take us to the top of La Bufa. How exciting! Chris certainly knows what I like!!!

    About 9 kilometers away, it takes 45 minutes and a hired driver/guide with a 4-wheel drive to get there. Chris arranged for a powerful dune buggie-like machine to take us up. So much fun!

    The ride up the cobblestone and dirt roads surrounded by huge trees and rocks was truly an adventure. It must have taken a lot of work to carve this road out of the side of the mountain.

    We came to a point dominated by a large telecommunications antenna. Vehicles couldn’t go any further. To get to the lookout, we had to walk on a somewhat difficult path that took us about 20 minutes. Doesn’t sound far but I was being super careful as my knee still isn’t 100%. And there was a lot of loose rubble. Finally we came out of the forest. We had arrived at the top of La Bufa. What a rush!

    There are no trees up there to block the impressive views of the Sierra Madre Mountains. There were hardly any clouds so we could clearly see San Sebastián del Oeste down below, La Estancia de Landeros in the distance and 50 km away, Banderas Bay. Bucerias appeared as a line of white buildings on the sea shore.

    Our driver told us that a lot of people get vertigo as the trail is on the edge of the bluff. There is a crude wooden fence. We were the only people up there so we had an awesome experience. We were on top of the world.

    We retraced our way back to the driver who then took us to Real Alto, a very small and old mining town with wood and stone houses nestled in the mountains. I think that only 30 people live there, mostly mariachi musicians, we were told. I am not sure how they can live in such an isolated place, high in the mountain. Its main attraction is the 400-year-old church venerating Our Lady of the Rosary. Apparently, she performs miracles. Despite the church’s very rustic white facade, inside we could feel the importance through the years of this old building.

    On the way back, the driver stopped and showed us a small.plane that had crashed on the mountain. Apparently it caught fire when in the air and dropped onto a farmer’s field. There were 2 passengers who lived but were taken to the hospital in Puerto Vallarta. The plane stayed in the field and no one ever came back to claim it.

    On this special trip, we took the time to see, feel, smell and hear all that this setting has to offer. The pine trees, the wind, the birds, the dust, the peace and the beautiful views at the top.

    Chris nailed it!
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  • El Puente Hotel

    March 27, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    So, while my knee was recuperating, we stayed in the Los Arcos Hotel which was located near the square. We then were able to move into the sweet little El Puente Hotel. Remember, this was the hotel that we originally wanted to stay in but it was being renovated so the taxi driver suggested Los Arcos.

    Well, renos were now done and we booked a room for a week. It was only about a block away from the square and very close to the curved bridge. Super clean and caring owners. If we ever come back, this is where we will stay! A beautiful and quiet place.
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  • Chris’ Solo Hikes

    March 18, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    While I had to rest my knee, Chris continued exploring the trails around San Sebastián for a few hours every day. Using the Alltrails app, he found lots of interesting places up in the hills. He walked to two different miradors, walked the trail to the airport, walked down the main road to an old hacienda that stored the gold and silver before it moved on to Guadalajara called the Jalisco Hacienda, as well as to several other places. The hills are full of old trails! The trail to the mines is still a favourite.Read more

  • Walking to the Mines, and a ‘Trip’!

    March 17, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    It’s Friday and it’s St. Patrick’s Day. We got up early and decided to go for a walk to where the mines used to be. For me, it was a perfect hike through a lovely mixed forest filled with birds and at the perfect temperature for walking. It was fun thinking of what it used to be like here when miners with their equipment and mules loaded with stones were coming and going to the mines that made San Sebastián del Oeste so rich a few hundred years ago. We started at the curved bridge.

    After about 45 minutes of walking, we arrived at the entrance to the Santa Gertrudis mine, which had the highest productivity in its time and remained in operation until the 20th century. It is the only one open to the public, and you can go in a few yards to take a photo.

    We continued up the road a short ways but them decided to turn around and head home. As I was coming down an incline covered in small rocks and leaves, I slipped on a rock and fell forward cutting and hurting my knee. So after cleaning the bleeding knee, but with no bandages to cover it, I hobbled back to town (3km), using Chris as my walking stick.

    On the way, we passed a house where a lady felt sorry for me so she sprayed my cut with a marijuana concoction and gave me gauze and tape to contain the bleeding somewhat. When we got to town, we stopped at a restaurant for breakfast. The waitress ran in and got her aloe vera spray and some clean gauze and tape. She also cut off a leaf of her aloe vera plant for me to take home.

    On Saturday morning, the cut was still bleeding and my knee was very sore so I thought it was time to see a doctor. Luckily for us, there is a tiny clinic that opened at 1:30 pm, just on the outskirts of town. But the emergency doctor said he could see me at 11:30. But how could I walk there? Wouldn’t you know, the local police commandant offered to have a police officer drive me there in his 4x4.

    After a wheelchair ride to the office and a quick check, the doctor assured us that I would be okay. I had sprained my knee and it would take a while to feel better. He cleaned up my cut, wrapped up my knee with a tensor bandage, gave me a prescription for Tylenol, suggested rest, ice, compression and elevation for at least 2 days. Then simple exercises. It all went well, and no charge. The police officer was there to pick me up and take me back to the hotel. Everyone had been so nice. Now time to do nothing for a few days.

    Chris found me a good book to read from a hotel’s trading library and I settled in. The knee got worse but the Tylenol helped. As the doctor had predicted, by the 5th or 6th day, the knee felt much better. A week later, wanting to ‘get into the saddle’, was able to slowly and carefully and with Chris’ help, walk ‘back to the scene of the crime’. I was pretty proud of myself and once again loved the walk. Hope to do it again in the coming days.

    I should mention that we returned to the restaurant and the lady recognized me and wanted to inspect my knee again. She offered me a special salve to help out the ligaments when she saw the difficulty I had while in the process of sitting or standing up..

    The pharmacist, who is also a dentist, suggested a white powder to put on the cut that didn’t stop bleeding for a week, I probably needed a stitch or two. The powder disinfected the cut and dried it up. He also suggested something to bring down the swelling. Everything that I got really helped out. People here are so caring.

    Now I have until April 3 to continue to get better before our flight home.
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  • Places We Saw in San Sebastian

    March 15, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Without going far from our hotel, we were able to visit the church, the Templo de San Sebastián, constructed in 1608, to admire its neoclassical-style entryways and interior. A new golden bell had recently been put in the tower but something happened and it hit the side of the adobe church and broke some of the trim.

    There is a little church museum there, but it was pretty musty and stinky so we didn’t stay long. It was full of old church documents and clothing.

    Close by, the City Hall is another example of the historic architecture that still remains intact. On one side of this building, there was the police station and a very old arched jail with 2 cells and a concrete bed. Cold and damp with lots of graffiti on the walls. Not a very nice place.

    Strolling along the narrow, cobblestone streets, we noticed other unique buildings, with plaques in Spanish and English providing information about their history and importance.

    There is a fortified place, El Pavillon, with a secret tunnel that went to the church, where gold and silver were stored before being loaded on mules to go to Guadalajara,

    There is also a tiny mining museum in Casa Museo Doña Conchita Encarnación, which features a collection of vintage everyday objects as well as photos of the town’s most affluent families during the mining era. A lot of intermarriages occurred! San Sebastian was founded by three families who immigrated from Spain and to keep their blood lines pure, they only intermarried with each other. So through the centuries uncles married nieces and aunts married nephews. Lupita, a great, great, great granddaughter of the original family, said that her mother, Dona Conchita, married a man who was her cousin and nephew and so Lupita’s father was also her nephew, cousin and uncle!

    On weekends, vendors sell toys, trinkets and plants on the square. Tony the taco man sets up and makes a killing. Trucks come in to take people up to the highest point in the area, La Bufa. Traditional music plays on speakers and people come to drink tequila and raicilla. It’s a happening place. During the week, it is much quieter. Last week was family week and board games were set up on several tables for families to play for a few hours in the evening. They had chess, checkers, backgammon, battleship, jenga, bingo and several other games. Games like hopscotch and marbles were chalked out on the sidewalk. The square is really the hub of the town.

    We joined a tour group that was visiting an organic coffee farm on the edge of town. The family’s home and business is located in a building dating back more than 140 years. Out back they tend 11 acres of coffee trees, some as old as the house. The family handpicks 30 tons of beans each year. They’re then dried, roasted, and ground. Sometimes sold just like that, the family also makes blends such as a mixture of ground beans with cinnamon and sugar for the making traditional Mexican coffee–now hard to find. In an interesting aside, we heard that the Sanchez’s parents married early (the Don was 15), a union lasting 68 years and producing 21 children. Their grandfather did even better, having 28 children, though that took both a wife and several mistresses. Lol.

    Walking along the cobblestone road near the entrance to the town and past massive 300 year plus ash trees, we entered Comedor Lupita for a delicious brunch. Here terra cotta platters loaded fresh handmade tortillas, refried beans and something we’ve never tasted before, machaca ( a dish of dried beef mixed with spices and eggs) were placed in front of us. What a breakfast!

    In town, there are several little old-fashioned general stores, candy stores, pharmacies, a hardware store, a good cookie bakery, a shoe store and I think that there may be 2 clothing stores, one with American clothes and another with used clothing. They are all very tiny. There are also several tourist shops with souvenirs.

    Our favourite small restaurant is called 31 Pitas and the young chef is a Panamanian called Louis. He makes delicious salads and pitas and his dog, Momo, greets us every time we walk by.

    Decorations are starting to appear. People are starting to think of Easter…
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  • San Sebastian Del Oeste

    March 14, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We stayed in Los Picos for one more night before going to a magic town in the mountains, San Sebastián del Oeste. Four years ago, we stayed for 3 weeks in the neighbouring town of Mascota but never made it to S.S., even though we wanted to. This is the year the “wind blew us” to this delightful town.

    We once again relied on taking a taxi and then the ETN bus to Estancia and then another taxi. The whole trip took about 3 hours. San Sebastián is only about 50 m away from Puerto Vallarta on a winding, picturesque mountain road.

    Our taxi came at 1 pm giving us lots of time to catch the 2:40 pm bus to Las Estancia. We met a delightful fellow Canadian, Christina, who had just been stung by a stingray in Puerto Vallarta! She was heading onward to Mascota so we were able to give her some tips.

    The tropical vegetation of the coast began to give way to the landscape of the sierra that has forests of oaks, pine trees and a much cooler climate . After approximately an hour, we crossed the Progreso Bridge, an impressive work of engineering spanning a 425-foot-deep ravine. A couple of minutes later, we stopped in the bustling town of La Estancia de Landeros. We got out and easily got a taxi ($7 Cdn) to take us to San Sebastián.

    Back on the road, we spent another 15 minutes on the winding and ascending road that leads to San Sebastián, a pueblo mágico situated 4,595 feet above sea level. We passed agave farms (for tequila) and coffee farms, as well as a chocolate factory.

    We went through the welcome arch and drove on the main street lined with giant ash trees (fresnos), noticing the local architecture, the mansions and the colourful, stately buildings, a reminder of the wealth and importance of this place during its most prosperous period.

    On entering the town, my first impression was that we were in an old time Mexican movie set. It didn’t look like a modern village in the 21st Century. Winding, cobblestone streets, old white and red adobe buildings, columned porticoes where some men were playing dominoes and drinking coffee, street dogs galore and lots of flowers. The main square has a lacey, French-style kiosco (bandshell) with gardens around it.

    San Sebastián was once was the most vibrant zone of a mining and commercial town that grew to have a population of more than 20,000 in its heyday (today it has about 5,000). In fact, during the colonial period between the 17th and 19th centuries, it was one of the most important mining centers in the country, yielding great riches from the silver, gold and lead found here. That explains why there are so many mansions/haciendas in the town. Many of these big houses have been converted into boutique hotels.

    There are 2 stone bridges in town, a straight one and a curved one. We originally wanted to stay in a hotel near the curved bridge but we found out it was being renovated so the driver took us to one called Los Arcos, right on the square. At one time, it was an old hacienda, which was later converted into a monastery and then a hotel in 1951. It has a restaurant on its porch and a large inner courtyard.

    We ended up staying in one of the bedrooms/cells for 2 weeks and really enjoyed the friendliness of the people who worked here as well as the townspeople we met.
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  • Bucerias

    March 5, 2023 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We had a date, to meet our older daughter Amy and her family in Bucerias, Nayarit. How exciting for all of us!

    Years ago, cousin Sue, was staying in Los Picos Hotel in Bucerias and we dropped in for a short visit. We remembered that it was in a good spot with good facilities, especially for families, so we booked a week stay there for all of us. A three bedroom, three bathroom condo right on the ocean and with 3 swimming pools and a big slide.

    Travelling to Bucerias from Ajijic wasn’t too bad. A taxi to the bus station in Ajijic, a bus to Revolucion street in Guadalajara, a short taxi ride to the new Guadalajara bus station where we caught a comfortable bus with movies to watch to Bucerias. Then a short taxi ride to the hotel. About 6 hours total. Looks like it would cost a lot but no, it was pretty economical!

    Our family arrived the next night after a worrisome Sunday in emergency. Their 6 year old son had become really sick (Norovirus) on Saturday and they thought that maybe they would have to cancel their trip. The doctor felt that they would be okay to go wearing masks and he prescribed an antibiotic, just in case. So, they came, exhausted but happy to be able to go on their trip. Whew.

    The whole week was a lot of fun. The condo was perfect with a kitchen, living room and patio and looked out over a big pool area. Audrey and Matt spent a lot of time in the pool and going down the big, scary slide. By the end of the week, Nathan felt well enough to not want to get out of the pool. In fact, he even went down the slide with his dad and loved it! Audrey became a diving queen, and Amy and Matt got some free time to just relax in the sun.

    Pat and Gail came down by bus from Chacala for a visit. They were thrilled to see Amy again and to meet her growing family. A funny thing happened. Pat left wearing Chris’ sandals that were similar except … Chris wears a size 10 and Pat wears a size 13! Pat is no Cinderella so the shoes must have felt pretty uncomfortable!

    It was sad for us when the kids all left but we were so happy that all had worked out well and they were able to come down and enjoy some Mexican sunshine and a fun holiday.
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