Simon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino

June 2019 Read more

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Trip start
May 31, 2019
Simon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino Traveler
Day of travel
May 31, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Early rise, last minute packing and travel to Tracey’s work to say “goodbye 😢”. Fly, transfer and Saint Jean Pied de Port - no beds!!!! Split the group up and managed to get bunks. Out for the first pilgrim meal before early to bed. Out walking 6:30am... Here we go...Read more
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Camino Day 1
June 1, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
Day 1: 🇫🇷 to 🇪🇸 over the Pyrenees 🏔. What time alarm 🚨??? But I needn’t have set it, the others in the dorm woke us at 5am!!! Oli and Wes has breakfast in their place (we had to split up as the town was full with walkers - over 30 had to sleep in the sports hall). And we start walking at 7am, a late start. And the first 10km are UP... steep, and some. We stop for coffee and tortilla at 8km and we are still climbing up at 17km where we see the man with the van. Boiled eggs, goats cheese and banana 🥚 🐐 🧀 🍌 boat is on and the old ins teach the young ones what stamina is. It hits over 30c with the sun beating down. Refuge is an old monastery. Shower, washing clothes and a beer 🍻🍻. Dinner at 7pm - and the football for the boys at 9 (but lights out for 10).Read more
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Day 2
June 2, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Ok, on the up side we walked an extra 6+ km than we planned, not by choice though. So many places booked up or full where we planned to stay, so we kept walking on and on and on. Definitely everyone is aching. Tracey opened a blister clinic at lunch time for the two boys. It got upto (and I guess more than) 32oC today. And after walking 38km we were so happy to find a ‘Dimotivo’ by the church - and they had spaces 😀. Today we walked 2/3 in the shade of trees but the last part was more open in the full heat. After such along day walk a shower is such a luxury you don’t appreciate until a day like today. We have had a communal dinner and now chilling out before an early bed.Read more
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Camino Day 3
June 3, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 23 °C
Zabaldika to Puente la Reina. What a fabulous night sleep and breakfast... we are fuelled, the boys blisters patched and ready to go... hmm, still later than liked at 7:40. (At least we didn’t have to sleep in the church porch like a couple of guys did last night). We make light work of 8km to make Pamplona. Coffee and donuts ☕️ 🍩 to fuel us on. We then start the long drag up, slowly climbing for the next 13km to then summit the Ato del Perdon. The views are amazing all around, but especially back on the city we had just left. It had been overcast for the first few hours but the cloud had burn off making the temperatures soar to over 30 again. The blister work in the morning has worn off and there are two limping boys. And the last 11 km (really 12, as we all agree that the Camino markets lie) are long and tough.
Two loads of washing, dried outside within 25mins done. Time to rest.
Dinner out is a treat of the finest local food - and the softest of steaks.
Blog and bed, rest is so needed for another gruelling, but amazing day. #makingmemoriesRead more
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Day 4
June 4, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Ok, we fall behind today for the first time. Landing in Estella just after 2pm - again over 30oC. Breakfast was 5km from the albergue this morning and was a challenge to make! The ‘Blister Boys’ set a slow pace. Oliver and Wesley are suffering so badly with blisters and sore knee ligaments. But two eggs on toast with a coffee picks the pace up. The path is long and steep to start with, the sun burns the early morning clouds off. The heat rises and the pace again slows. Food and drink do the trick again and we push onto Estella. 2.4km on the sign, but Tracey and I know the signs lie (we don’t tell the boys). 4km later we reach the towns edge. Beds found, washing done we go in search of a supermarket and make an awesome pasta dinner (and tomorrow’s lunch). Blog done - and the boys catching up with “Beth” from Halifax (who knows their friends). It’s again time for lights out. Will we make the km’s up? Will we find the wine 🍷 fountain? Tomorrow...Read more
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Day 5 on the Camino
June 5, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C
A cooler day, and one of two thirds and a third... For the first 22km today it was raining 🌧 and then the clouds cleared for the sun to come out, though still cooler with a breeze.
We had breakfast in the hostel and left just before 8am (late for pellegrinos). Waterproofs on, heads down and marching to a typical trudge to get going. The carrot 🥕 this morning was the Fountain of Wine. 4km in. Water bottles filled, we continued walking slowly up for a further 5km. Out into open fields of barley and wheat (with poppies dotted along the way). Olive, fig and vines starting to be more common in the landscape. Even in the rain we are greeted with the chorus of singing birds we have become accustomed to as we walk. The path is softer from the rain and crunches as we go. We have a long stint in the middle of the day between towns, 13km and the want and need to see houses grows. Our feet are sore, the Blister Boys are improving but still have pains. Lis Arcos is a welcome sight - and we rest for lunch. We push on a further 8km to Torres del Rio - perched in the hills in front of us. We arrive just before 4, too late to wash the clothes we settle into our own 4 berth room. A chance to nap after a shower, or natter with fellow pilgrims before dinner and bed.
Tomorrow we push on through Logrono, still a few km behind plan - but knowing we will make it up in the next week all being well.Read more
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Day 6 on Camino watch
June 6, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Today I struggled... to know what day and date it was. I hate to know what I’ll be like at the end of the month.
34km planned today, but an ‘executive’ decision was to stop after 23km in Logroño. (We has been before and had a good night out). But we didn’t make our minds up until we got here at 12 noon.
The Blister Boys are still in some pain and the morning walk for coffee and breakfast takes about 2:30hrs. But we have a lovely coffee, juice and tortilla by the church in Viana.
The next stretch was easier, caffeine fuelled and a couple of horses 🐎 in front of us (on the Old Town Road) pushed all of us onto a better pace.
Next stop Logroño - my legs had more km in them but Tracey decides to rest up a little more. (I’m sure we can make them up in a couple of weeks). Second in the cue, we shower, wash two days of clothes and make lunch before a siesta.
Out wandering in the evening, eating Tapas at Umm’ t and an Ice-cream on the way back home - tithe Albergue. Such nice food...
Lights out at 10, early up 6am. A bigger day of waling tomorrow.
.Read more
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Day 7 on the Camino
June 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
Last night was fab. Logrono was a fab evening of wine, tapas and an ice cream 🍦 to wash it all down with. The tapas bar was very hip, and even had a resident DJ outside. We went to bed positive for tomorrow, being rested and having less km’s on the boy’s feet.
Up and out just after 7am walking. First through the old city and then the modern part. Oliver and Wesley’s feet are slow to get going, so we decide to breakfast before leaving the outskirts. We struggle through the park with them, and it’s obvious that they are not fixed. We wait for 20 mins to get medical supplies from a supermarket and do some repairs - knees today too. We head out slowly through the nature reserve and up towards Navarrete. With nothing in between we have to go on before dealing help or support. The slow pace doesn’t help Tracey or I and we make the 12km in around 5 and a half hours. We lunch and find a knee brace - far better than my make shift taped effort. But, with the pain so bad with Wesley the boys reluctantly get put on a bus for the remaining 18km. But the stop took a while finding, and the frequencies are nothing like those in London... Knowing they are on the bus, Tracey and I break out into a brisk pace. The cool wind and clouds of the morning have burn off and full sun warms us up, but the breeze is refreshing. Just over 3 hours later we make Nájera, Find the first hostel and get the boys to come find us. (They has arrived around 13:30, eaten and fallen asleep on the river bank). We wash, rest and eat. Blister clinic is late this evening. We make plans for the next few days. The boys need to rest so we find the bus details to ship them forward 90km to Burgos. We will see them off in the morning and catch up with them after two nights rest there for them. Sleep now, as I am nearly an hour over curfew, and we have 37km tomorrow to catch a little back on the plan.Read more
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Camino Day 8
June 8, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
So a latish start again today, not because of blisters or anything - as such. We just waited around a little to make sure the boys were awake, had breakfast and ready to get a bus to Burgos. Their feet need to rest, and the slow pace has also had an effect on Tracey and I. We left Nájera about 8:30, and their bus was due in an hour. We were nearly at the next town Azofra when we got a text to say they were safely on the bus. It was a cool clear start today, an incline to start with and the an open path through corn and barley, vines and peas/beans today. The edges of the fields dusted in poppies, corn flowers, elderflower, cow parsley and grasses. We set a fierce pace, adding on a few kilometres to the stage. The gaps between villages were quite long 7 or 8 km each, s plenty of countryside, dusty tracks and our own thoughts to keep us company. Perfect then to listen to the French Open tennis 🎾, until the vital moment when the charge ran out, lol. We passed many people we had stayed with already, and saw more on the way. Some stopped only after 22km to a town over 800 years old - Santo Domingo de la Calzada. We had lunch there, and paced on. In total we walked 36.5km today at just under 5km an hour. Tiring, but rewarding pushing ourselves. The Albergue tonight is restful, quiet (we make up 66% of the population) and needed. After a communal dinner and good conversation I’m now ready for bed.

51,537 stepsRead more
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Camio Day 9
June 9, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
So we woke to a cold morning - maybe 10oC or so. The Albergue wouldn’t let us out until 7, so we had time for a light breakfast there. We were two of only three staying there - so run on the loos or showers.
The morning was more of the same, but under cloud cover. The Camino ran alongside the N-120 road for quite a few kms, before diverting away to a small village. I found the morning tough, I couldn’t get my rhythm at all, whilst Tracey strode with confidence and vigour. We were doing around 5.5km/hr.
By lunch the clouds had burnt away, and we had left the fields. We had a steep climb behind a village and along a wide open forestry track. At first we climbed and in the distance you could seeing rising above you further. But before that a tough decent, making the next climb even harder. Eventually it flattened out. And the last 7km were rightened up by an ‘oasis’ stop for watermelons s a cold can (donation only).
The Albergue where we are tonight is alongside the renovated monetary. From the outside impressive, but never judge a book by its cover right!! This will be the first night of true survival. More like a prison it’s damp and cold, and you cued with a tray for your rations!!! We rebelled, got our money back for dinner and went to the only other place in the village. Phew, food you could eat, and it being hot.
It has been hard walking today, even more so without the boys. They had to negotiate finding another Albergue in Burgos to accept them - you see, you are only meant to stay one night in a town before walking on. They got a place released at 5pm in another hostel and celebrated with beer and burger. Tomorrow we will join them and hope to continue walking with them by our side the next day. Let’s hope they are not barred from all the Albergues in Burgos...Read more
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The real Camino day 10
June 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Well, the path conditions and the pace we have set in the last two days have caught up with me. I too have a couple of blisters, am I a true modern pilgrim now? Any case, Tracey wins the good foot contest.
Today is shorter, around 28km into Burgos but still the horrible rocky paths that rip through your boots and pull your feet in every direction. Care is taken to not get any more blisters.
It’s damp in the air first thing, cold and overcast. Th heat for now has gone, and we start walking in 7 or 8oC... We are on a mission to catch up with the Boys in Burgos (hopefully blisters are healing well). Head down and a short 4km later we stop for a lovely breakfast in Agés. We ask for 2 eggs on toast with our coffees (off the menu, but we know the bars are happy to do them). Unfortunately for the lady serving this starts a run on them from other pilgrims behind us. Fuelled up we set uff, we have a steep two and a bit climb to navigate - and the rocky path!!! Rocky.
We make it down the other side and start the long walk around the air field (why we can’t just walk straight across, I don’t know - we are pilgrims after all!), over the railway and then the overly long 8km walk from the industrial outskirts into the old town.
We make it for 1pm, see the boys just before the Albergue and hug - it’s great to all be back together.
After sweet talking the lady on reception she lets us all in (your not meant to stay more than one night, and the boys were here 2 nights ago). Usual routine of shower, washing (little nap for Tracey) and lunch.
A wonder around the town to see the magnificent cathedral, the castle and many other churches and riverside walk.
Another rest, blog and now out for dinner. Energy for tomorrow, lol.Read more
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Day 11 Camino
June 11, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
Leaving Burgos this morning was cold... At 7am it was only 4oC!!! We fuelled up with a coffee and croissant ☕️ 🥐 at the strategically place cafe - opposite the municipal Albergue entrance. Then walked out the city, past the magnificent cathedral, the university and homes into the countryside. All four of us, back together, were in good spirits. The boys said they would see how the first 11 km went (after resting up their feet for th last few days). That came and went in a flash, both happy to continue. The Meseta begins outside Burgos - a large flat plane area in Spain, where distances can be deceptive. The track though is not flat, usually distort and fine gravel, but at other times stoned and quite painful to the feet; ripping the skin and causing blisters. Sure enough, 5km later I had to perform field meds to one of the boys on a newly formed blister. (Later, after the walk having to deal with both their feet again - draining and bandaging them up). Rain clouds were low but blown quickly past in the chilly wind; only to burn off in the afternoon to warming temperatures of 16/18oC. One ‘spike’ in th walk today rested the pain thresholds of the boys - rough stone gravel steeply up and down slowed the reasonable pace we had been keeping. We stopped soon after to rest and lunch in Hornillos del Camino. 11 more km to go... more painful, but with AirPods in the boys persevered and we kept at least a 4km pace along the flat dust track between corn and maze fields. We hit a 2km sign, a 0.5km one too - but no village insight. It wasn’t until we were virtually on top of Hontanas that is revealed itself from a low valley. (The usual shower and sleep for some, I wandered the village -investigating the church and sorting out dinner for the evening). Food cooked with love, G&T for Tracey and a large sangria to share we enjoyed dinner to the sounds of Spanish singing and guitar playing.
Late to bed now - another blister clinic (coverings i the morning) and the blog to do.Read more
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Day 12 on the Camino
June 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C
Another tough day all round today. We have a team talk over breakfast and agree it best to send the boys forward by transport. Their feet, and other aches & pains, are not letting them enjoy or complete a days walking. We part again as Tracey ad I set off around 9am - late for pilgrims hitting the path. We are aiming for the same place the boys are off to, so we will see them in just over 7 hours.
Most of today is flat, with a ‘blip’ at around 13km in. We first follow a path out of the village and into fields. Soon dropping onto the road we come across the ruins of a monastery straddling it. Again much of the fields are corn or barley ( rarely any grape vines). The road is long and straight, and the swallows are weaving themselves in and out of the trees lining it. They are swooping over th field crop catching the insects, but looking like they are having fun doing it.
The ‘blip’ soon appears on us. As we round a coupled villages at the bace of a steep hill another looms towards us. The path would be too sensible to go around it; instead it climbs at around a 1:8 gradient - constantly up. At the top)some 200m climb) the views are spectacular. It’s surprisingly flat for a while, with fields. But, what goes up must go down, and we are met with a steeper decent of 1:4 - knee breaking!
We keep the pace up on the gravelly track, even when it turns rocky at times. Not great for the feet as it’s not long that I get a hot spot on my right foot and what runs out to be as 3 deep small heel blisters. We push on, stopping 20 mins for lunch before more of the same. We are getting tired and fed up, drained from starting late and walking later into the afternoon. Each of us take time to drag the others along the way.
Skirting around the penultimate village the road enters the countryside and soon along s canal; a welcome change. By now the chilling wind that had cooled us all day had gone and the Spanish sun was warming the afternoon up. Growing weary the sight of Fromista was welcome, though it took another kilometre to walk into the centre to find the boys by the fountain, at around 5pm. The pace today took its tol on me (Simon) picking up three small deep heel blisters. Tracey again is fine!!! How so?
Albergue- double washing (by hand) and out for dinner. The time goes by so quickly and soon it’s past 9. Lights out just before 10, and we have it all to do again tomorrow.
At breakfast (6:30) we will all devise the plan for the next few days.Read more
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Day 13 Camino
June 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
We started this morning with breakfast in the Albergue at 6:30. As a group we came together to see what the plans were going to be for the next few days. Here, the boys made the tough and mature decision to pull out and go home. Both had injuries that were impacting on their wellbeing and was leaving them in constant pain; not getting better.
We packed up and moved to a coffee bar to get sorted. A couple of hours later, trains were organised, Madrid hotel booked and flights home the next morning bought.
It was so hard and emotional to do, leaving them as Tracey and I walked out onto the Camino once more. It seemed something was missing all day as we walked. And we both I’m sure had to wipe our eyes as we walked.
Obviously we checked in, all the time with them - as parents do (too much in their eyes I bet). “Don’t miss this”... “Have you got everything?”... “Do you know where you are going?”. I’m sure they were happy to make the hotel in the afternoon (via Burger King) for the constant checking.
With a late start today we had the option of 20km or 37km. We opted for the shorter to rest and recuperate. Saving the 17km with no cover or water for first thing tomorrow morning; in the cool rather the heat of the day today.
Our 20km today was simple. Straight, east to west, along a gravel reach parallel to the main road; with a slight incline towards the end. There may have been a sculpture somewhere along the way for a selfie, but that was it for excitement.

We are 18km from 1/2 way.

And with one day in hand from the last time we walking it, we are looking to make up another day in the last 7 days or so.

(Missing you two Blister Boys, Oli and Wes xx)Read more
What a great silhouette
6/16/19Reply
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Camino Day 14
June 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
5:50am alarm call, but rolled over. Out by 7am and into the first café for a coffee and a super chocolate croissant. It’s good to have breakfast , and full water bottles. Next town is 17.5km along an old dusty gravel Roman road. The only deviation is an up at the end of the first stage to a town hidden again in the dip. It was good doing this stretch first thing in the day, whilst it was overcast and cool - though the sun burnt the clouds away within a couple of hours and the temperature was rising as we went. To start with there was no cover, maybe a tree or two on one side but nothing to cast s shadow. Further on there were bushes either side of the path - but these brought their own perils in the many flying bees and bugs. In the fields swallows swooped and chased around after the bugs, many different versions of finches and sparrows littered the path. From time to time you would see a mouse scuttle across the path into the corn fields. We even saw agreed lizard!!
At the end of the 17,5 km was a welcome break and orange juice. Half way there... the stage and also to Santiago. Yup, we have made the half way stage 😀.
We pushed on through another 3 or 4 villages, stopping for water or just to rest our feet. The path wasn’t climbing too much today, so we were able to have a quick pace (offset by the breaks). Saint Nicolás was a welcome sight around 2:30... we checked in, showers the dust off and set on doing the washing.
A communal dinner with Dutch,Belgians and the Germans topped off the day.
It was a weird day, one of those days where you were missing something badly. We were checking in with the boy to make sure they left the hotel and got through security at Madrid airport. Had they got on the plane? What arrangements were waiting for them in Manchester. They were with us in spirit walking today.Read more
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Day 15 on the Camino
June 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
We had breakfast at the Albergue before we set off, a little later than though originally - 07:40. We hit the straight gravel track again, by the side of the road. But this time trees and bushes lined it offering shade and perfume to the walk. Alongside the loud bird song you would hear old leaves rustling in the ditch beside the road and path. Mice, would scurry across the path as you would be about to pass them. One even bumped into Tracey’s boot! They evenly lined the path for acre kilometres.
We pressed on, through Sahagun, where railings lined the streets to the bull ring - festival time; and some revellers were still going home from the night before. We passed the old monastery and pilgrim hospital (now a hotel) on the way out of town and back onto the long straight paths.
The fields were still agricultural, and through one we saw a deer walking by.
The weather was perfect for walking, a cooling breeze kept the rising temperature of the sun at bay, and the clouds were as you use to draw as a child in the sky (flat bottomed and curly on top).
Our legs felt fresh and in no time we had walked half of today, without stopping. The second half had a couple of water stops and a break for a lunch (bought from the Bercianos village shop as we passed through). There was an option of routes too, but we kept to the real Camino.
Leaves rustled too along the path, but this time not just mice; but green lizards too.
The final stretch was 13km between villages - the straightness was becoming monotonous and with little variation to see these kilometres seemed to take longer to complete. But the music from our speaker got us there, lol.
We made up half of the four in the “vegetarian” Albergue. Showers and rested we then all ate together. Getting tired we went to the dorm and planed the next few days out, evening the kilometres.Read more
I hope all these translates into a book soon. Will make a great read. Following the journey has become a daily read with interesting curiosity
6/16/19Reply
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Day 16 on the Camino
June 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Saint Nicolás to La Virgen (a hot old day).
So we decided to walk through León. Two reasons mainly, we had stayed there the time before (four years ago), the Parador hotel was closed for refurbishment (so no posh pilgrims dinner) - oh, and also to smooth out the next few days before the mountains.
We set off just after 7am and it was around 7km until coffee. (And it was well worth the walk... we fell into a real ‘local’ bar, the noise you could hear across the square. Beautiful coffee and toast, and the biggest pastries 🥮 you have ever seen.) Set up for the next 18km to León we strode our into the countryside, along our friend the gravel/duty track - accompanied by our friend the mice and the birds. This time we came across four stalks wandering up and down an field of early growing corn. Obviously out for the worms etc, it was such a bizarre view.
The walk to León was easier for the fact it was broke up every 5 or 6km with villages or things to see. Still long and staring, alongside the road - but the time went quickly. Until the drag into León. Through the industrial, rundown areas and then the expanding residential areas. The last 3km took forever, not helped by the full sun and increasing temperatures.
León old town was buzzing with people dressed up to go out on a Sunday. There was some sort of festival season going on, with little stages set up in every square. The cathedral is magnificent and takes centre stage - we passed when people were coming out from a service.
Following the yellow arrows we started to leave the city, over the old bridge (J R Hartley and his son were fly fishing in the river), along side the railway and out in a similar manner as we entered. The idea of walking an extra 7.5km seemed sensible earlier in the day; but after a beer in Leon, and the heat of the day pouring all over us it was hard going along road and unravel cambers on the paths.
We finally made the only Albergue in La Virgen, ready to stop. Only to be treated by two donkeys. It turns out you can hire donkeys from France‼️ Thy will deliver them to the start of the walk and pick them up at the end - just wow... One for next time...Read more
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Day 17 on the Camino
June 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Well, not the most interesting of days as it felt like Ground Hog Day all over. Dusty track, straight mostly and along side (or on) the road.
Leaving at 7am we set off for the first 6km before breakfast. Passing the modern church in La Virgen first thing, where Jesus and his 12 apostles are shown pointing the way to Santiago.
Rabbits replaced the mice this morning, running for cover in every direction as us pilgrims trod the path. Not the best Monday morning travel to work I’ve had, as most of the traffic was heading towards us and into the city of Leon we had left yesterday.
We made good time in the morning, pounding outrage 25km to Hospital de Orbigo by mid day. We crossed the 100m cobbled bridge into the town with 20+ cyclists from Brazil. I thought the cobbles were bad for just walkers, some cyclists got off and pushed their bikes across!
Lunch was had, and the big decision of the day was to be made. Do we do the north route or the southern one? Southern meant we would have a 13km leg in the sun with no village break, to a place that had no Albergues so a further 4km would need to be walked to Astorga. Or north meant over a hill for 5.5km and rest. The latter won, and we were all done by just gone 2pm. A quiet village, and small Albergue with the towns only bar meant a peaceful afternoon. Maybe the third and fourth to arrive here mean we got good bunks (bottoms each) and a shower before a group of 6 others turned up soon after. An afternoon siesta, early dinner (consisting of leftover lunch, biscuits, crisps and the Rioja from the fountain ⛲️ at Irache) and a walk around the village gets us ready for bed. Bed seems to come earlier and earlier, it’s 9pm for goodness sakes!
Tomorrow we start climbing again )not literally with ropes) but a steady 300m gain over the 33km; in preparation for the day after and the highest point (Cruz de Ferro).
Blister watch - well Tracey is a machine, but showing her human side with one small one on the top of her big toe!! How? Me, well it seems I’m growing oblivious of them and the standard low key throbbing foot pain. I didn’t know I had three more, all on the ends of my toes until Tracey mentioned them, lol. I wonder what bliss it will be standing, volunteering at Glastonbury, for 6 hours at a time in just under 2 weeks time - in these same old boots 🥾.
But for now... we are having a Bien Camino.Read more
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Day 18 on the Camino
June 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Santibanez to Rabanal dal Camino. 33ish kilometres.
7am breakfast and then 7 hours on the road... Well, we do walk most of the time, but for a quick water break here and there and a lunch around 20km in.
These recent days have been similar and different,but very much into the routine of pounding out the first 15 or 20kms - it seems to be the last 10 to 15 that take as long and are the harder.
It was 12km to Astorga this morning, along a gravel track next to the road (sound similar?) A steep climb up into the town, past the ‘Spa Hotel’ and then where? It was market day, all the stalls were set up on both side of the street (you know the markets from 30 years ago back home, and the noise was wonderful). However this proved a problem to us pilgrims. We couldn’t see the way, the shells on the floor or yellow arrows were covered by stalls. Other pilgrims in front were as equally confused. So, we looked up towards the cathedral spire and went in that sort of direction. And what a site when we got there... Gaudi’s Palace and the cathedral side by side. We resisted and looked, thought and carried on.
Out of the town we had wide tracks, white tracks, road and rocky paths. We had every sort of path that would cause blisters either by rubbing or just ripping the feet. The road was the best, a little spongy under foot too, but then you had to deal with the Spanish drivers.
Corn fields are giving way to pine plantations and cows. We gradually went 300m as we headed to our abode for the night. The last 7km between villages was tough, but with some BP 109 music we made it. A real rural retreat, a courtyard and collection of connecting buildings. The bedroom feels like a large barn, and we have top bunks pushed together tonight.
We had a washing scare, as showers have been falling this evening - spoiling the clear skies.
Bed seems to be coming earlier too...Read more
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Day 19 on the Camino
June 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
So today was Rabanal to Ponferrada, via the Cruz de Ferro; a 33km stage.
We set off after breakfast, climbing just under 400m in 8km. The scenery quickly changed to trees, brush and green pastures with milking cows. The air was so clean, with an abundance of lichen on the bark. It had showered over night and the morning was cloud covered. Some of the hills around us were enveloped by the clouds. The path was well trodden and good up.
At Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the Camino, we left stones we had been carrying for loved ones. A time to think, pray and reflect.
The top plateaued out for 5km and we continued walking the slate path with purple, green, browns and yellow alongside us.
We then started the treacherous 12km part road/ mainly stone rubble path down. At points the loose rocks and steepness put a lot of stress on your feet and tops of your legs.
Nearly there, 300m to the road leading into Melinaseca the unthinkable happened. Tracey tripped on a protruding rock and went flying forward, down onto her face. Others around us came and helped. Tracey’s strapping Italian angels helped her off the mountain to a place where she could rest; I called 112.
An ambulance was dispatched from Ponferrada and made good speed. Taking us the remaining 8km to where we were aiming for to stop in the afternoon. After overcoming the language barrier, as Bering treated, Tracey left with a broken nose and 3 stitches to a cut above her left eye. (I’m so relieved that we have not left Europe yet!!)
Told to rest and cool down, we find out hostel and mange to get a double scoop ice cream (doctor’s orders). A trip to the pharmacy and an early night. She is adamant to walk tomorrow... I’ve said let’s review in the morning (but I already know what the answer will be...).
Night and God blessRead more
TravelerBe careful Tracey I’m gonna need you in July xx
6/19/19Reply
Wow! looks amazing
6/20/19Reply
from Liam ;-)
6/20/19Reply
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Simon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino Traveler
Day 20 on the Camino
June 20, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Well, we slept well last night. Tracey even got a little lie in until 6:30am. (I’d stayed up a little longer last night and woke earlier just to check on her and see if she was ok). The fall yesterday took a lot out of her, but she was adamant when I woke her that we were going the planned 34km - to be reviewed on the way; but I knew what that meant always, lol.
We took out time and got out of the Albergue around 7:15am, found the first bar and had breakfast. Ready for the day we set off. The first 8km, after walking through the old town, skirted around the new - through some posh neighbourhoods and out into fields of market garden produce. Families were already out there tending their plots. Again into suburbs and rural towns before we hit the countryside again. The crops had tuned back to fields of vines (of which four years ago we remembered tasted the grapes 🍇🍇 in the Autumn).
We stopped around 16km in, to get some fruit and a Spanish “Cornish pasty” in Cacabelos. Every village we passed theology had a small church at least, and here was no exception. Stone brick, rotund and simple inside with wonderful stain glass windows.
The countryside was undulating today with a better grittier teach and road to walk on. No trips or slips today, though Tracey walked with a slight limp and the muscles were starting to ache from the fall yesterday.
We passed through the beautiful town of Villafranca de Bierzo with little under 10km to go. The path followed the road, through a gorge, with a motorway above us. The hill sides changing from grass land and vines to more trees.
The Albergue we planned to stay in (decided 1km before the end) was full - only 12 beds. But, a dear old lady who was sat outside led us along the street, between other houses to another (her’s). This I believe she did for another 8 guests, lol.
We did the usual - slept and chatted to others.
Even watched the rain fall outside and listening to the thunder. Feeling glad we had got there in time.
Dinner ended up to be a self organised communal affair with about 5 languages being spoken. The Italians ended up cooking - pasta, couldn’t argue with that.
Blog and a cup of Twinings English Breakfast tea ad now it’s bed 💤Read more
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Day 21 on the Camino
June 21, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Ok, so just a warning ⚠️ to today’s blog. We have just come from a large (40+ communal dinner) where the bottles of red wine were being replaced like tap water. Such a fantastic feast, and the noise from the conversation was amazing. Everyone has a story to tell and share.
Today you could throw 10 adjectives at and you wouldn’t do it justice. It was the hardest, toughest, most amazing, wonderful, beautiful, draining day so far. So the Pyrenees, they were tough. But once you were over them you came down. Today was as steep if not steeper; with a twist. You thought you were at the top at O Cebreiro, but NO... for the not (and last 10km) you kept going up and down all along the plato top. We were even tainted by two Altos. Seeing the Albergue was such a great sight.
Earlier in the day we started out along the road again, but soon transferred onto a track. The landscape had turned greener, more pastural and market garden. And as we started gently to climb we remarked how much like home it looked. The villages we passed through were so removed from Spanish rule - so remote and rural, looking like they survived on what they could. The initial two gentle hours passed and allows Tracey to loosen up the aching muscles. And the next two hours we sweated the warming day and the steep climb.
Today was also special to us, as the generosity of those following us meant that Tracey hit the £800 target set to raise for The Christie. We are in your debt, thank you.
(Made it with a minute to lights out... Night all)Read more
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Simon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino Traveler
Day 22 on the Camino
June 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Fonfría ending up in Vilei (just past Sarria). 32km give or take. One thing you learn quickly on the Camino is to never trust the measurements. It is what it is in the end, and you can get very frustrated (especially at the end of a long day when 3km turns out to be 4km).
Today we came down the mountain we climbed yesterday, and for 9km it was dropping, gentle at first on a good path but then steeper and steeper with worn out rocky paths again (European money not stretching the whole way down). We were definitely in Yorkshire... Stone walls, green undulating hills and fields, cows 🐄, tree cover and woodland, moss, nettles, daisies, cow parsley. Even starting the day with grey cloud, but that still burnt off with the humidity getting up and the temperature hitting the low 20s.
We walked through farm villages fo most of the day - made up with 6 to 10 houses and the main road littered with evidence of cows. Even when we stopped for a drink and a tortilla we were reminded where we were with cows going past us for milking.
We walked through Serria (modern into old town) as this is the last start for people wanting to get their certificates in Santiago - as its the last town before 💯km. It would be busy with new walkers, and we wanted to be in front of them tomorrow.
Today’s walk was hard for Tracey, and progressively for me too. Tracey’s knee proving to be the worst of her injuries when it comes to walking. It took a while to free itself this morning, as then later on got progressively worse. For me I seem to have pulled something in my shin ankle area. And at the Albergue we shared the ice pack on all our injuries.
Washed, washing and sleep. A beer and then dinner (not great for vegetarians). Some seeing Andy he blog. It’s busier not walking!
Tomorrow we plan to start make the km’s back we lost at the start - depending on our limps. We are still on plan for Wednesday finish 😀, bodies allowing.Read more
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Simon & Tracey’s 2019 Camino Traveler
Day 23 on the Camino
June 23, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Well that was a fun ~33km today, who said the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain? Not today.
As we set off from Vilei this morning, at a leisurely 7:30 we had cloud cover but no rain. It had been pouring all night, but broke for sun rise.
We decided to walk before breakfast and at around 6km through rural fields and tree lined paths we came across a breakfast spot. Perfectly times for a couple of reasons, it was spitting with ran and also they were just open. We managed to string out a croissant as two coffees each for an hour or so, as we watched the rain lash down. Many first time pilgrims, joining the Camino from Sarria trudged past with their new waterproofs and ponchos.
The rain eased enough for us to get underway - rain coats on and backpack covers too. We walked through oak Forrest’s and arable land, undulating all the way. Today’s chorus of song from the birds was also joined by a field of frogs croaking away. We were motoring away to lift the average pace up, our aches and pains being dulled by modern medicine.
Just before Portomarín we came across a Veggie bar - something we had to stop for, as Tracey had suffered a poor offering the night before The food in Spain is definitely orientated to the meat eater. But this was an oasis for all. The veggie burgers 🍔 were to die for and a smoothie to was it all down. The rain had eased, and so waterproofs came off, long sleeves packed away and fuelled we were ready for the last 15km.
We dropped steeply to the bridge across the river to Portomarín and suffered the long haul up the other side. The path for a change followed a road up (a reminder of a week back). Modern medicine was wearing off with 6km to go (or as I had said 5 point something kilometres... it was actually 6.1, but I didn’t want to demoralise the troops).
Again today was a walk through small farm villages, cows, pigs and sheep; and the view of the final village with our lodgings for the night was welcome.
Normal ritual happened, and rewarded with a big beer. Rest and a pilgrim dinner, only one more thing to do (after finishing the wine bottle) - bed. Earlier again!
Tomorrow a shorter day, only 27km and half the lost stage back. Pulpo...Read more
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Camino Day 24
June 24, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
The alarm went off at 6:11. Neither of us moved, I was swift to turn it off before upsetting the others in the dorm. There were 10 in the room today, a couple had left already and another was rustling around in their bag 🎒. Even after 3 or 4 weeks for some, you never pack the bag right for the next morning. You think you have everything for a quick getaway, and then you remember your clean socks at the bottom (or the iPhone charger, fr that extra 10% whilst your getting ready in the dark). I got up at 6:30, and dared to wake Tracey at 6:50 - she was still sleeping. We were not the last out, but at 7:40 we were near the remaking few. 💯m later we stopped for breakfast at the bar. We didn’t set off for real until about 8:30 in the end.
We were walking the shortest leg so far today, 27km to Melide - home of the regional delicacy Pulpo. Spilt into two halfs we would stop for lunch in Palas del Rei.
Much of the walking today was gentle troughs and peaks, slowly descending all along. Mainly the same as yesterday, walking country lanes/avenues with a canopy from the trees lining them (oak and increasingly more so eucalyptus) and fields with cattle or horses. Only a few had crops now.
It was only a few kilometres away from tonight’s resting place did we come across a couple of things that had been regular in our days walking previously. First of all, following a main road and secondly a medieval stone bridge crossing the river at Furelos.
On the was into Melide I tried some of the octopus 🐙, and it amazed me how great it tasted. We found the Albergue easily enough, and just in time... or aches and pains were starting to raise their heads (though the feet seemed to have more life in them).
Wash, cook, drink and wander the town. Pack for tomorrow, blog and now to finish the last beer off before bed. Lights out tonight is 11pm‼️
Two more days... two more days...
NightRead more
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