A Francophone Adventure

October - November 2023
Sebs and my main holiday together would be a 4 week adventure through 3 francophone countries: Mauritius, Madagascar and France.
We'd see how good my French language skills would be after 10 months of learning it via Doulingo and Charles Leclerc.
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  • 32footprints
  • 3countries
  • 26days
  • 283photos
  • 23videos
  • 22.2kkilometers
  • 10.2kkilometers
  • 10.0kkilometers
  • 95kilometers
  • 4kilometers
  • Day 7

    Driving back the Scenic Route with Joy

    October 31, 2023 in Mauritius ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Although we felt as if a whole day has passed, it wasn't even noon yet. As the sun would still get hotter, we decided to drive to the Peninsule de mangrove and take a nap at a completely empty beach. We were afraid that all the Le Morne hikers would take a break at this beach afterwards as well, but we were the only people there which was a great change to Flic en Flac. Later we were woken up by some dance music. We looked around and saw a big sign stating "International Elderly Dance Contest". That's fun, I thought and wanted to dance with them, however, my legs told me otherwise, so I was happy just watching them having their best time. After a couple of songs, we decided to make our way back home on the scenic route. First we drove by the Chamarel Viewpoint, which wasn't that special. Then we drove higher and higher until we reached the top and arrived at the astounding Gorges Viewpoint. From there you could look over the Black River Gorges National Park and in my opinion: That was a way nicer view than from top of Le Morne. The calm and serenity the whole place was quietly shouting... Amazing. Just stunningly beautiful the whole atmosphere. We watched some pretty fat monkeys going through the trast from all the tourists driving by here. One of them looked more like a fluff ball than an agile monkey, another one was playing with its gum like a human. These monkeys have definitely been around humans way too much. And as a tourist bus with twenty noisy phoneholders arrived, we not only knew how but also to get going. So we left the Gorges Viewpoint behind and drove to our final destination of the Scenic route: Ganga Talao. This is a hindu temple located at a holy lake called the Grand Bassin. Hindus believe that the lake is connected with the Ganges from India. There, the biggest hindu procession of the world (outside India) including 200.000 people, is held yearly. That explains the hundreds of parking spaces that were luckily pretty vacant when we took a short break at the lake. It was all calm and quiet, so that we could enjoy in piece.
    After a few minutes, we jumped back into the car and drove back. The landscape changed from tea plantages to villages and finally the sea again. As usual, we were planning to go to Satishs', however tonight he promised me he'd share the secret of Baja with me. Baja is a formidable treat of cheese fried in oil. I am obsessed with it and I wanted to learn, how you cook it. When we arrived, he led me to the kitchen, put an apron around me and introduced me to Bandia, the cook. She showed me how to do Baja and although I could see that she wasn't happy about my slowliness in the kitchen, she showed me everything patiently. When the Baja was ready, I was able to serve my own made Baja (although Bandia did most of the work) and was happy like a child able to choose any sweets of their liking. Only the Baja would have been totally enough for me, however, Seb got a crab for dinner that was killed in front of our eyes (rather brutally, but I can't think of a better way). I got some veggie dinner as well, but after two bites I knew I wouldn't be able to finish it up, as the long day was haunting me now. I was so exhausted by all the physical work for Le Morne, the early wake up and the long hour drives, that I felt sick. The Dopamin rush from the Baja cooking fading away wasn't helpful either. So, Seb and I cut the night short and left with a full stomach and a new recipe for a guilty pleasure. If you want to have it as well... I think you gotta fly to Mauritius and earn it for yourself :)
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  • Day 8

    Bustling & Hustling at Central Market

    November 1, 2023 in Mauritius ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Today we had planned to go to the Central Market in Flacq, which is the biggest market of Mauritius. It's every Sunday and Wednesday basically the whole day, but as today was All Saints Day and therefore a public holiday, it should only be open until 12pm. So, we hurried up and drove to Flacq, where we got greeted by a proper traffic jam. It took us a while to figure out where we could park and then actually get a parking spot. Once that was done, we threw ourselves into the chaos of the bustling market. You could basically get everything there, from vegetables to fruits, clothes, sweets and souvenirs. We went on the hunt for some souvenirs for our friends at home and got lucky, although there wasn't as much to choose from as expected. Seb wanted to try some more fried street foods, so we got a mix of these, as well as some noodles again. We took it with us to the beach, as the many people around the market (which hadn't closed at 12pm btw) were too much for my social batteries. At the beach though, as it was a public holiday, there were hundreds of people. They all camped there and had taken tables and chairs and barbecues with them. They had loud music on and we're just happy about their freetime. It took us a while to find a quieter spot, but we eventually found it and sat down in the sand to enjoy our noodles. They weren't as good as the ones we had at Enrico's the first day, but instead double the price. Well, you always learn, don't you...
    A rainy weather front arrived at Palmar Beach not ten minutes after we finished our noodles, so we called it a day and drove back to our apartment.
    We relaxed on the terrace for the rest of the day and had my leftovers from yesterday's curry and the fried mix for dinner. Then we went one last time to Carambole Snack, to enjoy the company of our friend Satish once more. We got some Samosas and Rum, until the last guests had paid. Then he sat beside us and we explained him how to play Durak, the Russian card game we alqays play with our friends. I had a lucky streak tonight, as I "won" in every round, whereas Seb had bad luck and became the "Durak" (idiot) each time. It's been fun and just wholesome. We stayed until 11.30pm, as we didn't want to say Goodbye to Satish. But in the end, it was time. We made a selfie with him and Ouioui (his cute little doggo) and hugged each other mutlple times. We started as strangers and parted as friends. And that's what travelling for me is all about.
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  • Day 9

    Au Revoir Mauritius, Tongasoa Madagascar

    November 2, 2023 in Mauritius

    Waking up the last morning on Mauritius, we ate our breakfast in peace and packed our luggage again. It was quite a tough task, as we now obviously wanted to put our big autumn clothes into it and only wear some light summer clothes. Nevertheless, we could get everything inside and checked out, thanking Rajesh for hosting us.
    We got in the car and took off to the airport. An hour later, we have filled up the petrol, and gave the car away. Another hour later, we've checked in, got rid of our heavy luggage and sat down at Burger King. Usually, we'd never eat there, as it doesn't really go with our values. However, we craved for some western food and as we weren't sure when we'd get some chips again, we just allowed us to treat ourselves to very unhealthy food. The chips were amazing!
    Finally, boarding time arrived and we took off to yet another francophone country.
    Air Mauritius surprised us with its board entertainment and food, because it is rather unusual for a flight that's only 2hrs long. I played some 2048 and gifted my food to Seb, as I was still full from our BK lunch. Then we descended and landed in Madagascar. After we paid for our On-Arrival-Visa (10€) we got the stamps in our passports and got our luggage. In the entry hall, someone was already waiting for us with a sign, like in the movies. Eugene would transfer us to the hotel today. He was a small, Asian looking guy who had a lot of smiling lines around his eyes. He brought us to the money changer and said "Don't change everything, you can change on the road". We have actually planned to change 1.000€, as we've calculated we'd need about that amount of money for everything. However, when we changed 250€ for a start, we understood why Eugene has said don't change everything. One pack of 20.000 Ariary after another was smashed on the counter until we were literally millionaires. 1€ is 4.773 Ariary... Oh dear. Our wallets aren't used to such a stretch!
    Luckily, we could pay for my data SIM card with cash, and after that was done, Eugene, a porter, Seb and I made our way across the parking lot, until we arrived at a white Toyota that looked as if its best days have been in the last millennium. Our luggage was put in the trunk and Eugene took off to pay for the parking ticket, leaving us alone with the porter. We knew that we should tip him, but what? As we weren't used to that huge of money, and he was saying that the 2.000 Ariary wasn't enough, we just gave him 20.000 and he happily departed. Not ten seconds later, another Malagasy came to us, asking for money and complaining that we would give our porter but not him. "You didn't do anything for us, why should we give you money?", Seb asked and the man got rather angry, but got lost after a few more seconds anyway. Eugene arrived and we took off into the city of Antananarivo (or short Tana). We asked him about the tipping and he said a porter would usually get around 2.000 Ariary. So we made a man very lucky today. As 20.000 Ariary is only a bit more than 4€, we just learned our lesson and moved on from the topic.
    We drove through rice fields and poor looking huts. As we got stuck in a traffic jam, suddenly children were begging on our car windows to give them money. It was hard to ignore them, but I understand why Eugene told us to never give children money. If you give them money, their parents will always use them to get it, e.g. for alcohol or cigarettes. Also, if they beg, they won't go to school, which is the only way in Madagascar (or really anywhere) to become something. Leaving the sad brown eyes behind, we finally arrived in an alley, where Eugene turned the engine off. For a very short second, we thought "Shit, he's going to murder us now", but when he took out our luggage and I saw the sign "Hotel Belvedere", I was relaxed again. Eugene brought us to the reception and gave us his number to contact when we'd need a ride back to the airport. We checked in and went up to our room, which was on the second floor right at the end of the balcony, where you had quite a nice view over Tana. The city was covered by a dome of smog, the loud noise coming from market criers and old engines. Looking down to the hustle and bustle underneath, an older couple came to us and we asked them whether they belonged to the G Adventures tour as well. They did! Paul and Tracy, a retired Jaguar engineer and a retired teacher from Birmingham, England, were a very nice, funny couple we immediately got along with well. We decided to spend the evening together, chatting about old travel stories over dinner in the hotels restaurant. It was very relaxing and if everybody of the G group would be like this, it would be an easy time.
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  • Day 10

    Gecko Morning & City Stroll through Tana

    November 3, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We woke up early, as we had pre-booked a walking city tour this morning. We were ready at 8 o'clock, however when we came downstairs, we found out that the tour wouldn't start until 9am. So we decided to get some breakfast in the hotel first. We sat down outside on the balcony to enjoy the rumbling city underneath before we'd throw ourselves into exactly that. After a while of relaxed eating, multiple geckos appeared around us. They were so curious, they came onto our table and wanted some of my jam and fruits. I know that you shouldn't feed wildlife, but 1. Geckos are just way too adorable to ignore, and 2. they aren't mammals, they are reptiles that function differently than e.g. monkeys do. They would never get used to people like the fat monkeys at the Black River Gorge Viewpoint on Mauritius did. So I put a spoon full of jam aside so that the geckos could feed on it. More and more geckos came and checked out were the delicious smell must come from, and they got so close, that I could actually feed them with some jam on my finger. A gecko was licking my finger off! Whatever might come after this on the tour... This would become my most favourite memory.
    It was time to get going though, so I reluctantly said Goodybye to my new buds, but not before I put some leftover fruits on a tree nearby, so that they could eat the fruits later as well.
    We went to the reception and met another G tour member: Roger, a defense lawyer from Canberra, Australia. His tall figure was impressive next to our guides small stature. However, they shared the same name. After deciding that Bernhard, the other person on the list for the city tour hasn't arrived yet, we started walking. Honestly, after yesterday's begging welcome, we were a little bit afraid to have a swarm of begging people around us the second we'd leave for the town. But our worries were unnecessary, as most of the people went on to mind their own business for the whole of our walk. Yes, some greedy eyes fell on our slippy bag, but I didn't feel unsafe walking through the crowds. The streets were crammed with cars and little stalls on the side to sell whatever they could. Cobble stone alleyways were leading steeply towards the top of the city. We learned lots of things from guide-Roger, whilst befriending Australian-Roger. Madagascar has around 29 million inhabitants, whereas 2.7 million were living in the Capital. They have a so-called democracy, however guide-Roger told us that the system isn't working very well. As we sighted a statue from 2009, we understood why. Rebellious citizens didn't want to suck up the sh*t of the president anymore and tried to fight him at the presidents palace. However, the president just shot them and killed everyone trying to get closer to the palace. Nowadays, the 2009 statue is in front of it, to always remind the poor people about the power of the president which he is most certainly demonstrating of you'd ever say something against him. This story made me very sad, especially because the situation for the desperate people was only getting worse.
    Most households in Tana (or Madagascar as a whole) don't have running water, so they have to be at a well-station at a certain time, when a guard would give them water for the day in exchange of money. So they wouldn't have any water unless they've had money. This is honestly cruel in my opinion.
    We also learned that the Malagasy usually don't wash their own clothes, but that they give it to a washing station, where the clothes were being cleaned.
    Another very cruel thing we've learned was about religion. Madagascar has a very high population of Christians, however in the 19th century the queen of Madagascar forbid Christianity. Whoever would go to a church would never come out again, as they were all held captive there, until the church was burned to the ground with them in it. That's why all the churches are made of stones nowadays. Traditionally, the Malagasy people would built their houses with wood, as stones were meant only for the dead. After killing all these Christians in a wooden church, they rebuilt the churches from stone, as there were lots of dead people on these grounds then. Cruel.
    Speaking of cruel, they used to poison people that were possible criminals in the 19th century as well. Whoever survived the poison was innocent, so they believed. It reminds me of the witch hunts in the US and Europe in the middle ages.
    We arrived at the Queen's Palace right on top of Tana at noon, where we went inside of the museum to learn more about the history of Madagascar. Until 1896, there have always been kings and queens, that were coming from multiple kingdoms that eventually immersed into one. Then the colonists came, first England, then France. I don't know whether I understood guide-Rogers broken English correctly, but it seems as if England exchanged Madagascar for Mauritius, which explains why Madagascar drives on the right side whereas Mauritius has left-sided traffic.
    We started our descend again, which was far more exhausting for my knees than going up. At the end, we got a little reward, as guide-Roger bought us some Malagasy cake made of Pistachio and Tapioca which didn't taste too bad. It looked more like a tree trunk, though.
    We finished our tour by getting some water and snacks from the supermarket and said Goodbye to guide-Roger, as well as Australian-Roger, as we've decided to relax the afternoon in our room. In the evening, we had our Welcome Moment with the other tour members in the restaurant. There we met the following lads:
    Mike, a gameplay product manager from Vancouver, Canada, who ticked every box of a nerd.
    Trevor, a very talkative storyteller from Belfast, Northern Ireland.
    Holly, a sturdy, down-to-earth travel agent from England.
    Kate, a seemingly superficial Australian working in Scotch Marketing from London.
    Bernie, a quiet, nice German-speaking person from Vienna, Austria.
    And Solofu, our very calm, non-descriptive tour leader from G Adventures.
    After a rather long, chaotic briefing about what would happen in the next two weeks, we had dinner and chatted until 10pm. I wasn't 100% sure if I'd like the time in Madagascar, but our tour members seemed alright enough to not have a complete disaster of a holiday.
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  • Day 11

    Driving to Andasibe - Impressions

    November 4, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We started early at 7.30am because we'd have to drive 6 hours to our first real overnight stop: Andasibe.
    We got into the bus and, honestly, I was deeply disappointed. It was a small, grey bus without any purple G design on it, with old seats that neither had lots of leg freedom nor any storage space for e.g. your water or phone. You also didn't have a USB-Charger. But hey, at least we could use our own bought water because G didn't even provided us with water in a country that is known for its lack... Oh, but we had to pay for our meals as well... So, very impressive G Adventures (not)!
    Okay, enough ranting and being pissed off. Let's give Madagascar a chance.
    As we left Tana, we saw hundreds and hundreds of policemen and soldiers along the way, as a protest was scheduled for tomorrow. When Seb said, that you would never have so many safety measures in Germany during a protest, I just plainly answered: "Yes, because Germans aren't desperate when protesting, because we have everything and are just complaining about stuff. These people have nothing, they are desperate and desperate people are dangerous because they have nothing to lose."
    Not to be said, that we were quite happy, when we left the Capital behind us.
    Driving through the Malagasy landscapes was weird, as there were lots of dirty, non-picture worthy villages that were crammed with cars and people, showing off the poorest bits of the country. And then there were endless green rice fields situated between mountains that gave you back the will to care. And then you learn about the once called "green island" of Madagascar is nowadays called the "red island", because of all the deforestation the Malagasy already did, showing off the red colored earth that's left behind. On the one hand, you want to be angry about the locals, on the other hand though they are only trying to survive somehow. Even if you'd educate them and show them how necessary the forests are for them (not only for better air, climate change, etc. but for tourism as well), they wouldn't have any other options. The country is just too poor, the politicians do nothing about it and even if they could, I wouldn't think they could do enough. As I said... These people are desperate, and desperate people don't decide for the greater good but for themselves.
    We finally arrived in our Lodge in Andasibe, checked into our bungalows and got some lunch. The afternoon would be free time or you could choose to go to a Community Reserve to see some lemurs. Obviously, this optional activity wasn't included in the tour price either. It would cost another 50.000 Ariary p.p.
    Anyway, we'd do it.
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  • Day 11

    Afternoon and Night Walking Safari

    November 4, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Everyone except Mike (he had travellers sickness) went on the afternoon walk through the Community Reserve in Andasibe. Our guide there was Liva, a cool guy who talked to the animals just for fun instead of trying to allure them. Going in the rainforest, I felt a little confused, as the forest didn't look that much like a rainforest. But then again: Who am I to judge? We wandered into the green for about half an hour, until we found a small group of common brown lemurs. One of them actually came as near as 50cm away from me, unbothered that I was doing a photo shoot with her and her baby. Then we moved on to find the Indri, the biggest lemur of all. And we did find them, however they haven't read the manual how to please tourists and stuck to their spot high up the trees. It was actually quite annoying that we'd stick around for so much time, hoping that they'd come down. I was just thinking "Please leave the poor animals alone".
    Then we found the most special tree on Earth: It's not identifiable, as it changes the leaves, fruits, blossoms and seeds every other year. Scientists can't say which kind of tree it is, but I most certainly can say that whoever found out that the tree is not identifiable must have magic eyes, because to me it looked just like the tree next to it. Moving on, we found a huge chameleon right in front of us, that was named after its discoverer Parson. It moved so slowly and still was so visible. That was really cool.
    We finished our afternoon walk and got back to our Lodge, we're we had some time to freshen up before the night walk. Liva was guiding the night walk as well and spotted some great things like chameleons and cool looking geckos. However, the most saught after animal (for the group) was the mouse lemur, also known as pigmy lemur, the smallest lemur there is.
    They were crazy about finding it, leading us into the jungle where we hit yet another group trying to find the smallest of its kind. These were way too many people for our liking, so Seb and I distanced ourselves a bit from the group and searched for insects. In the end, we found some dwarf and mouse lemurs and the others were happy. We were happy to be in bed asap.
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  • Day 12

    Andasibe NP - The Real Rainforest

    November 5, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    The next morning, we bought some breakfast and headed out to the Andasibe Nationalpark, where we'd do yet another walking tour with Liva. This time though, the walk was included. But even before leaving the Lodge, we discovered a brown praying mantis, looking exactly like a crumbled leaf. Liva told us, that once a polish photographer paid him for 2 weeks to find this kind of mantis, but never did. And there it was just in the lodge. Lucky us.
    We got to the national park and we're led to a disclosed area, where fish was farmed (very weird for a national park), because they've discovered a black boa there. It was trying to warm itself up again, it seemed. And it definitely was much cooler in the rainforest than we've expected. We froze in our bed tonight.
    Moving on, we found the special, endemic giraffe of Madagascar, and no, I'm not talking about Melman from the movie, but from the insect. This was very cool! Honestly, I'd never expected myself or Seb to be so fascinated by insects, but they impressed me way more than the lemurs did.
    We did see some though. Again some Indris, and common browns, but also the golden lemurs, which were new.
    The coolest discovery on this walk must be the millipedes, though, as it was red like fire and just casually crawling over the forest floor.
    That was a strong end to Livas expertise. The afternoon, we could do some optional activities such a going to yet another Indri Reserve (45k), go ziplining (that didn't look neither special nor safe, 30k per jump) or go canoeing (30k). We decided to relax the afternoon and instead played some cards with Mike and Roger. They taught us the card games 9-5-2 (strictly 3 players) and Jooker (a team game), we taught them Durak our favourite Russian game. That was lots of fun. But for the evening, we've convinced Sulufo to do yet another night walk but only for insects. As only Seb and I wanted to do that, that would be fun.
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  • Day 12

    Hunting Insects Like No Other Pt 1

    November 5, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ 🌫 18 °C

    As Liva didn't have time tonight, his assistant took care of us. We started for 35k p.p. (just as the last night walk), and quickly found a bunch of things. There were so many fascinating tiny creatures in Madagascar, and no one else was looking for that. We asked our guide whether he liked hunting lemurs or Insects more. Lemurs was his answer. Well, that reflected on his abilities to spot insects, as Seb and I found way more little creatures than he did. However, he found the pigmy Chameleon, the smallest of its kind, and a scorpion which was deadly. However, luckily we discovered a trick to save your life whenever a scorpion should cross your way during the night. Just light it right in the eye, then it should try to hide itself quickly. But hopefully, you'd never need that advice, and me neither.
    We searched metre for metre and we're slowly ticking off boxes with all the insects we found. It was a very calm yet exciting walk, as behind every leaf a new species could wait for us. And as nobody else cared for Insects we had them for ourselves and didn't need to fight for the best picture.
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  • Day 12

    Hunting Insects Like No Other Pt 2

    November 5, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    And then we discovered just the best thing I've ever seen: On moldy looking trees wasn't mold, but hundreds of insects. They just looked like snowflakes or cotton, it amazed me so much. These are the coolest creatures ever and nobody else cares about it.
    Now we know about it and care.
    We would get a very good rest tonight, I thought, because I suddenly felt the exhaustion of focusing and searching for Insects for 2hrs straight. We called it a day and drove back home to fall into bed and asleep.
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  • Day 13–14

    Driving to Ansirabe - Impressions

    November 6, 2023 in Madagascar ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    This morning we woke up early and had our pre-ordered breakfast that arrived as fast as if we wouldn't have pre-ordered. The Malagasy service at the Lodge is very mura mura (slowly). When finally everyone had eaten, we jumped into the bus for our longest busride yet. 5hrs from Andasibe back to Tana (for 150km), where we had lunch. And then another 4hrs for the 175km to Ansirabe. Ansirabe means "lots of salt", as the city has lots of salt. You could see the richness in the people there. All children wore school uniforms, nobody was begging. And you could see the poshness when we arrived at our hotel that night. We had nice bedrooms and the hotel had some pool tables and a bar designed in a very westernised US style. Seb and I agreed that it was a good hotel, but not authentic. Anyway, we'd have the authentic Malagasy lifestyle tomorrow with our Local Living Moment.Read more