Spain to Germany

February - April 2023
One year ago today I returned home to Chicago after spending 5 epic weeks motorcycling south to Tierra del Fuego, SA.
Tomorrow I board a flight to Malaga, Spain. I will spend all of March in Marbella exploring the spectacular Spanish Costa del Sol.
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  • 34footprints
  • 4countries
  • 37days
  • 360photos
  • 4videos
  • 15.0kmiles
  • 12.8kmiles
  • Day 37

    Homebound

    April 4, 2023 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 27 °F

    What a great trip! Eager to get home now and prepare for the next adventure.
    Spain was a good experience especially renting snd “living” there for a month. So much to see but did manage to visit four other cities. Next time I think instead of s long term rental I’ll move from city to city inconvenient but will allow greater familiarity with each town. The trains in Spain make that convenient. Snd one can decide to stay longer in one place.
    No complaints about the people, food or prices which seemed incredibly affordable. All was terrific.
    Germany prices noticeably higher especially in a large capital city like Berlin. Dinners averaged 25-30 Euros. This morning I saw Shell gas price for premium at $8.28 per gallon. Museum were reasonable 5-8 Euros. Still the city was vibrant, cosmopolitan with a diversity of neighborhoods and large immigrant population as would be expected.
    No complaints about the food or people although some did show a rougher edge. Not unexpected.
    Museums excellent. The U-bahn subway system runs as efficiently as ever. Clean, comfortable making taxis redundant. I was never asked for my fare ticket. It will get you quickly anywhere in this large metro area even to the furthest outskirts.
    German society is disciplined, efficient, well maintained and prompt. One note: there are cameras everywhere.
    Not sure why I waited so long to return but will surely do so as these few days weren’t enough to cover everything this city offers.
    Marbella’s warm sunny days are missed as the still lingering chilly Berlin weather at times forced me to seek a warm shelter. Yet it does give this Cold War city character.

    Thank you all for joining me!
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  • Day 36

    BMW Plant Tour

    April 3, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    I have not been in a manufacturing plant since I retired from Abbott. But plants no matter what they make are fascinating machines to tour. Yes a plant is basically a giant machine. An orchestrated dance that takes input to produce an output. Similar to a car that takes input(gasoline) to produce output(energy) to move the car.
    2023 is the 100 year anniversary of BMW began motorbikes manufacturing starting with the R32. However, BMW first began by building aircraft engines. The tour lasted an hour and a half covering the logistics warehouse where parts are delivered, inventoried and stored to wait for production. All of the activity is done by robots.
    Next was assembling the frame and all the parts attached such as wiring and harness, handlebar components, etc. The engines are the only item that is produced at the plant. All other components are sourced externally.
    Once the frame is partially assembled it travels via conveyor through multiple station where technicians add more parts this simplifies the assembly process.
    In the final step each bike is tested certifying it is road worthy.
    All the parts carrying robots that move through the plant are designed and built by BMW engineers.
    Much information was share yes but no pictures allowed. Some important points.
    1. Bikes were originally made in Munich production move here in 1969.
    2. The berlin plant makes bikes for the world except countries with law requires final assembly in country assembly, i.e., Brazil.
    3. 4000 employees
    4. 800 bikes produced daily
    5. 1 million parts to make 800 bikes, daily!
    6. The GS is the biggest seller worldwide. I ride a GS.
    7. An electric scooter is in production.
    8. 1,923 RNineT bikes all numbered 1 will be made in celebration of the 100 year anniversary. Get your order in!
    As a diehard brand loyal enthusiast the tour was well worth it. But if any of you have a product you love call the company to ask if they give tours. Many of them do. Highly recommend; great learning experiences.
    BTW, the facility is near the Zitadelle Spandau a fortress built in the 16th century that played a role during WWII. It’s a historic place to visit and it’s fortified inner courtyard hosts open air concerts where my wife and I got to see PJ Harvey.
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  • Day 35

    Berlin Marathon

    April 2, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    A cold, cloudy day to become a bit sunnier as the hours passed. I walked out of my hotel finding the main thoroughfare crossing Wittenberg Platz was closed to traffic and pedestrians. The Berlin Marathon had begun. The first contestants coming through were in-line roller bladers. Ver cool to watch them speed past. Then had to find the morning’s coffee and croissant.
    My day was planned. The Museum of Architecture and Design. Followed by the Art Deco Museum ending with the German Spy Museum on Potsdamer Platz. Again a full day of cerebral stimulation starting with the arts.
    But my plan was quickly aborted after arriving at the Architecture Museum which was closed for renovation. Ok. The Jewish Museum which I intended to see Monday was near. So there I went only to find after checking my coat that I could only enter at a reserved time. Ok. I didn’t want to wait. Plan for tomorrow.
    Let’s head to the Spy Museum I concluded. Again reserved entry times were required. I decided against any museums today so I walked the mile to Brandenberg Gate. Although Check Point Charlie is historic it is quite touristy. The Brandenberg Gate is a more significant monument memorable for dividing the East from the West.
    The city was super busy with throngs of onlooker, runners, families. Everyone was out.
    I reached the Gate and walked underneath to see that the marathon ran through it to the finish line on the other side. It was wonderful to see a Cold War symbol being used in a joyful celebration.
    My own running of a half marathon took place on a hot August Chicago day. It was beautiful running along the lakefront to the Museum of Science and Industry the turning point then back to the finish line in Grant Park. Historic undertaking for me but not as historic I would imagine as finishing under this recognizable gate.
    This would conclude my Sunday. This evening I am going to an Israeli restaurant near the hotel. Tomorrow the factory and one last museum, hopefully.
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  • Day 34

    Museum Island

    April 1, 2023 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    German society is still smoking. Is it because there is always a cold bier near?
    Now that this incredible subway system that rivals or may surpass London’s tube has been tamed I decided to tackle the museums. The principle ones located on an island in the middle of the Spree River.
    A mid morning start found the streets quiet. I boarded the U2 train to Hausvogteiplatz walking the remainder to the island. But decided to cross the Spree to enter the Radisson the hotel my wife and I stayed on our first visit. It was shutdown for renovation. The hotel’s outstanding feature was the AquaDom in the lobby over the bar. Impressive at 82 feet tall, 36 feet across with 264,000 gallons. Quite the fish tank. Magical. Maggie and I would have an evening glass of wine before retiring for the night.
    Last December 16 the tank blew sending fish out the lobby doors into the street. No one perished but a lot of fish died. Local authorities called it a maritime disaster. Hah!
    I first visited the Cathedral beautiful ornate building with Prussian Kings and Queen latex to rest inside. Germans are a tall people but these sarcophagi were half the length of a school bus. What were they buried with? After absorbing the beauty of this church I decided to climb the 282 steps to the dome top. Great views of the city and one can walk completely around the dome circumference.
    Climbing down to street level I headed to the Alte Museum home to classical period masterpieces. It took about 1 1/2 hours to see the collection without the audio phone tour. Housed here are the distinguished German artist plus Monet, Rodin, Cézanne, Manet and others.
    Next the Neue Museum which I skipped due to a queue and headed to the Pergamon Museum filled antiquities predating Christ from Syria, Iraq and Babylon. Remember learning in elementary school about Nebuchadnezzar of Babylon? Well tule remnants of his palace are here. Plus Roman structures from the period. A truly remarkable museum. Among the artifacts is a fully assemble dining room floor from a wealthy Roman villa.
    And of course a visitor dropped her phone onto it. Prohibited to walk on it the gallery erupted in applause when one of the docents was able to retrieve it with a “handy” grasping claw.
    Tonight wanting Turkish food I went for Thai not wanting to ride the subway again. My favorite Larb Gai.
    It’s been raining and cold most of the day but to plan to venture out around midnight to walk the city streets while listening to Bowie’s album Heroes. I’m too far from the Wall or Hansa Studios where it was recorded but the local streets near Wittenberg Platz will provide the necessary accompaniment.
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  • Day 33

    Berlin

    March 31, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Why am I always so comfortable in a big modern bad ass city? As good as Marbella and the Spanish Sun Coast was Berlin is another dimension.
    From the moment I stepped outside the hotel onto Wittenberg Platz I felt at home. Totally comfortable as I walked to Die Creme for früshstück this morning. No longer walking the pretty sun brightened streets of Marbella. Or smelling the ocean breeze. Instead traffic, graffiti, folks rushing, sirens howling. But damn I was home. Finishing my bowl of granola with fresh berries and coffee I exited the small cafe to get my city pass I had purchase on line. This was going to be a day for a little shopping, learning the subway system and walking.
    I headed toward Potsdamer Platz 1.3 miles away to get a proper Berlin public transport pass. Offices close. Open Monday-Wednesday or weekends. Well that walk healthy still took time and pissed me off. So I kept walking almost in circles until fatigue urged me to rest. When my legs were about to give up finding me in a jail cell for sleeping on a cold wet park bench a Hop On Hop Off bus turned the corner headed towards me. It stopped. I got on.
    Not a word of English did the driver speak. I showed him the Visit Berlin pass but in English he couldn’t understand it. In German I had to buy the tour bus pass at the Tor. “Ok” I said. He let me on. No jail tonite.
    Sitting in the upper deck toggling through an exhaustive list of languages I found the English narration. Up and down streets the bus went. Here’s the Opera House, then museum xyz, a decaying Berlin Wall picked clean by human woodpeckers and a remnant of a bomb out WWII building. Past Check Point Charlie into the government quarter where we were forced to stop to allow a cavalcade of police cars, blue lights on, motorcycle escorts and dark Mercedes Benzes. King Charles was here yesterday but had already departed for Hamburg. This definitely was a important politician. It reminded me of the night in DC went we were surprised by Trumps parade of black vehicles on route to the White House. It was probably a late night Taco Bell run. We did “salute” as the Beast passed us.
    Anyway the bus made to the Tor and I jumped off with a quick Vielen dank.
    The subway station that would get me back was nearby by.
    I went down the stairs to the ticket kiosk. Location instructions were difficult to interpret and my phone was of little use. So I went looking for help. And then serendipity.
    There was an older man we’ll probably my ages at a seat waiting for the train. He was wearing a baseball cap and from a distance I recognized it as the Cuban flag it was embroidered on the side and Cuba above the bill.
    Incredulous I stopped and in Spanish I said “¿Tu eres Cubano?” He smiled and replied “Si.” Instantaneously, as brothers from some distant land there was an bond.
    I continued asking if he knew the system and where I wanted to go. As he began explaining his train approached. I said thanks indicating I understood in Spanish of course and shook his hand.
    I continue the short distance to the escalator that would take me to the other side of the tracks. As I walked across, I looked down and saw him still on the platform his train gone. He had not boarded and was waving at me to come back. Weird. I made a u-turn and headed back down.
    He was very apologetic feeling he had not given me clear instructions. Since he wasn’t working today he could take the next train home.
    We talked and I learned how to get back to the hotel. Then a little bit of chit chat asking him if he lives in Berlin etc. Yes he told me for the last 30 years.
    I began to probe further but again the next train approached. Yeah German schedules.
    I stopped the questions and asked if I could take a selfie of us. Immediately he said No, no pictures please. Ok I respect that. Many people are camera shy. But this was different. Summing it up in my mind I knew it was the long arm of the Cuban government. Stretching all the way from Havana it’s authoritarian reach beyond comprehension.
    I firmly shook his hand again and patted his shoulder.
    How many lives has the regime destroyed? For how many more years will the suffering continue?
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  • Day 32

    Berlin die Weiterführung

    March 30, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    The picture is of Mar who came by to say goodby. She and her partner Iciar were terrific hosts very friendly and sweet. Always ready to answer any questions and regularly reaching out to ensure I was enjoying my stay. It’s not often that I meet AirB&B hosts but these ladies took really good care of the apartment and me. Highly recommended.
    When I arrived several weeks ago I wrote a bit about the historic coast wondering about the Roman Empire’s by conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. Now that I am leaving I wonder about the Moors who ruled over southern Spain for 700 years until they were defeated and force back to Africa by the Catholic Kings.
    Those Mediterranean beaches the Romans languidly camped must have been stained by Arab blood.
    The Moors did have a driving culture through architecture, commerce, math, food, art which must have certainly been difficult to leave behind.
    As Catholicism spread across the kingdoms of Spain pushing the Moors further and further off the Andalusian coast it’s important to note that much of their culture was absorbed into Spanish culture thus not lost. Certainly reigning monarchs that came after the Moors were smart to preserve what they had left behind.
    Many Moors did opt to stay and convert to Catholicism and surprisingly were to prove this through inclusion of pork into their diet. I am told it was part of converting to the faith.

    The bratwurst says I’m in Germany; the boots in Northern Europe. No palm trees here.
    Getting here was long. Flights were delayed out of Malaga due to thunderstorms with heavy turbulence slowing our approach into Frankfurt. Missed my connecting flight but with German efficiency I was automatically placed on an 8 pm flight. No human interaction required. iPhone handled all changes.
    It’s been at least 18 years since I was last at Frankfurt Flughafen. The tough and imposing looking military police in their dark olive green, bullet proof vests, machine guns at the ready are seemly absent. Remember Lockerbie? The airport then was constantly under renovation and expansion. Well it’s grown even more as it took me 1.2 miles from my arrival gate to my departure gate. That free weiner dog courtesy of Lufthansa aided my effort.
    One hundred years or more it will be very different. Imagine a a spaceport lifting scientists politicians, business people and the casual tourists up to orbiting cities and beyond.
    Frankfurt to Berlin is a fifty minute flight. Berlin is Germany’s biggest city.
    The flight full. I may be one of the few tourist on board as I have spotted many PowerPoint presentations glowing from laptops. Is PowerPoint still around? Damn those days are long gone and happily forgotten.
    The roar of the engines, the hydraulics audible dance break into the solitude of the quiet darkened cabin. My ears pop and through the windows the city lights appears as we descend in the twilight. Berlin awaits.
    The next few days I will enjoy a hotel room near checkpoint Charlie and Potsdamer Platz. Many historic sites to visit culminating in a tour Monday afternoon of the BMW Motorrad manufacturing plant.
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  • Day 29

    Marbella, End of the Line

    March 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    My final three days in Spain. Marbella has been a restful place living here this past month of March. I have been immersed in a different culture which was my primary reason for spending so much time here. Indeed I have been saturated with Spain so much that I am now ready to move on. But have learned that next time I will hope city to city instead on staying in one place.
    However, Marbella is a resort oriented town so beyond the initial introduction to the city there isn’t much to do. A lager city would have offered more entertainment. What I love about Chicago is it’s vibrant music scene. That seems nonexistent in Marbella although the summer will bring Rod Stewart to play at an outdoor venue. Ugh! I haven’t even found record store.
    Additionally, Marbella is filled with expats from Europe including a lot of Russians and Eastern Europeans. Some are permanent resident with strong roots back home others are visiting. They probably go to Puerto Banus or Cala de Mijas. But certainly they all come for the weather, the good standard of living, and the Spanish laid back culture.
    Yes lunch at 2-2:30; dinner at 8:30-9. Prime time programming doesn’t seem to start until about 10 pm. The surrounding building apartments are lit up well past midnight. When I awake at 6:30 or 7 its a ghost town with all the apartments dark. Life usually starts if not ( Am then 10 AM.
    The condo I am staying at is well appointed in the center of town, grocery stores, markets, shops, beaches and restaurants all within walking distance. Even the gym I have been going to three times a week is just around the corner. So a car, in which we Americans spend so much of our lives in has been unnecessary. Of course I did rent to get up to Granada, Córdoba and Ronda but could have just as easily commuted to those cities using the Spanish train system RENFE as I did for Sevilla
    So what do I think of Spain? I love it. The people are friendly and warm. The food is wonderful. The tapas particularly are a good way to not overeat. The climate here has been terrific. Early in the month the nights were cool but now that Spring is finally here the temps do not dip below 60. And they are a pleasant 75 during the day. The sun shines everyday no wonder this is called the Costa del Sol. The transportation system is top notch allowing me to get to any city in Spain or beyond the Spanish borders by train if I so desire. The local buses are clean, run on time, and are inexpensive $1.25.
    In contrast gas is around $6.00 per gallon which is probably why most cars are small. Scooters and motorcycles are ubiquitous but nothing like the horde of motor scooters seen in Rome. I must add that the discipline of the drivers (no left lane bandits) and the courtesy given to pedestrians at cross walks is incredible. Similar to what I have experienced in Germany or the UK. Maybe hitting a pedestrian will ruin or bankrupt you.
    Marbella streets and sidewalks are constantly being cleaned. But those in other cities were well maintained. Tourism drive a lot of this economy. There are street beggars, huskers and the lookie lookies but overall the economy seems to run well. There is a strong environmental emphasis especially now that the war in Ukraine has driven up utilities.
    Television programming available in this condo has been limited of course. So I have watched mostly news and games shows. Male newscasters wearing neckties are out. A smart casual look is preferred both by men and women. One in particular, a word game show has increased my vocabulary a bit. The news programming is typical of news feeds, politics, fútbal, the Royal Family, fraud, taxes, healthcare, environment, crime. But no gun violence crimes have been reported until today, Nashville. When will we learn? Everyone here is horrified. I’ve been asked about it but have no answers. My trainer Fernando does say that special licensing is needed to own a firearm but it doesn’t include semi or automatic rifles. There are guns in the black market and these are usually involved in family disputes or drug related deaths.
    One story recently centered on the king’s daughter who will be the first female monarch to lead the Spanish Armed Forces.
    It has been a good experience spending this much time in a foreign country. We Americans do love visiting France and Italy but I strongly recommend Spain. The history, culture, people, cuisine are all worth it.
    The shorts and polos are packed the warmer clothing is ready. I’ll have a new entry after settling in Berlin in the next few days.

    Fun news today. King Philip VI and the Queen visiting Cádiz came upon a plaza with a group of box drummers whom they both joined. The King turned out to keep a good rhythm going. So there is good news to be had.

    https://youtu.be/eRsMOT8lbGs
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  • Day 26

    T-Corner Life

    March 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Calle Mateus Gago, Sevilla, España

  • Day 26

    Sevilla Early Morning

    March 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Up early. Out for cafe con leche and churros at El Comercio. Didn’t anticipate how many churros are served but the coffee was strong nourishing neurons with the needed jolt.
    Paid and set off for the Cathedral and Alcazar. A few tourists wandering about but most were Sevillanos headed to their jobs or walking their children to school. Food truck delivery drivers unloading their orders.
    City workers everywhere erecting barricades for the upcoming Easter holiday. Crowd control for the holy cra cra week of festivities. Even in the now empty Cathedral Plaza one can feel the urgency of the preparations. God must smile upon this city.
    Backpack hung on my shoulders a leisurely walk to San Justa train station. There I sit counting how many people walk their mobile devices in hand peering down at the glowing interface. Or tightly at their side for the hurried walkers. Without life is meaningless.
    Of course it is a necessary tool for a traveler whether experienced or a first trip to a foreign land. It serves vital services. Not getting lost, direction, entertainment, news, contact with family and friends, food source, HELP! Not meaningless just an affliction.
    An affliction I propose that hinder the art of social interactivity. We’re mobile gunslingers. Me included as I thumb type this entry. Interruptions do not result in a mortal wound just “where was I?”
    What simplicity past trips to Europe, Maggie and I dependent on paper maps, tickets, francs, liras or pesetas. What simplicity. Or was it?
    My train via Córdoba to Málaga is finally listed on the large electronic departures board. Fifty minutes to go but no track yet listed.
    I wonder if those informational displays will disappear replaced by an active feed pushed to our devices?
    I sit patiently waiting my turn. The Golden Arches in the periphery of my vision beckons me. I resist. My belly churro filled. My system fortified.
    I amuse myself. Gym shoes have become the norm no matter the clothing. Suit, dress or jeans sneakers will take one there comfortably. Still fashionistas and metrosexuals lurk.
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  • Day 25

    Taller Andaluz de Cocina

    March 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Spanish cooking class! Yes 3 1/2 hours cooking and eating!Paella Valenciana, Salmorejo, Spinach and Chickpeas, Lemon Sorbet with Cava, and Sangria.
    As much as I love to cook this was an excellent chance to learn about Spanish food and culture. And make the meal. I walked out stuffed.
    The class was held at the Sevilla food market. It is a large market with eateries, butchers selling lots of pork, beef, chicken, rabbit, bull’s tails, etc., fish mongers, vegetable and fruit vendors, spice, olives and olive oils, and nut vendors.
    The market was built on top of the Castle San Jorge on the banks of the Guadalquivir River. The castle below now a very nice art gallery is worth a visit. When construction of the market began 300 human remains were uncovered. It turns out that this was the original site of the Spanish Inquisition. Poor souls resting below a future market place and food stall.
    We receive a great introduction to all the various vendors with explanations of the meat and produce. The one picture of the lamb head it was pointed out that it’s a delicacy that some cook and eat the whole head including the eyes but the best part is the brain. Yeah I’ll try something once but not that!
    After that we returned to the kitchens divided into two groups of about ten.
    The participants in my group were all from the US except two ladies mother and daughter Allie and Carla from London.
    The food we got to cook and enjoy was wonderful especially the Salmoreja a creamy cold soup made only with ripe tomatoes, bread and olive oil. Served with s sprinkle of jamón and hard boiled egg. Wow! It was exquisite. This will be the first thing I make once back home.
    The paella was more complicated but really not all that difficult. The saffron, pimentón (paprika) and the garlic are critical ingredients. By the way, paella is the pan. I never knew!
    I also learned that saffron comes from a flower each strand picked by hand. And there are two types Spanish consisting of red and yellow strands and Iranian red only strands. Everything else not real saffron.
    The spinach and chickpeas tapas I ordered the first night in Sevilla was also on the menu. I’m glad since I’ll make it regularly.
    It was such a good experience. And I learned how to peal, cut artichokes and remove the hairs from artichokes! My €70 paid off. After the class ended, I strolled to the saffron vendor where I purchased a few grams. Plus pimentón.
    I wanted to see the Inquisition torture chambers of the castle below but now as an art gallery it was hard to imagine the pain inflicted therein. But I got a very good tour of the current exhibition by a young lady. It was just me but before we started three women who are local women artists joined us.
    Bring my last day in this historic city I had to walk the mile and a half along the banks of the river to Plaza de España. I pictured this busy river ships coming and going. Captains barking orders, oars churning the water while sails caught the wind. Mothers and wives crying tears of joy as the men disembarks while others shedding tears hoping their loved would return. Contracts signed, taxes paid, money made, jobs for many. The river banks a flurry of activity. Spain becoming a world power enriched by gold and silver. These tiny ships with brave men traversing the Atlantic made me think of the new frontier. The moon, Mars and beyond. Hundred of years from now our rockets will appear small and treacherous like the galleons that sailed the sea in those early seafaring days. I imaging that spacecraft of the future will dwarf todays rockets and the ISS. And I wonder what riches and new technologies will they return?While touring the Alhambra it was stated that Columbus was promised 10% profit by Queen Isabella. Apparently so much gold, silver and other goods were being brought back from the Americas that 10% would be a great amount of revenue for Columbus and family. So much so that it would have made them rich beyond imagining. Thereby, it is told that they could literally buy countries around the Mediterranean. I don’t recall the final outcome but certainly they were richly rewarded.
    Anyway back to my walk to Plaza de España which I had to see before my departure.
    It is massive. A symmetrical building constructed for the unsuccessful Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. That’s all I know about it but do know that it was used in two notable films, Lawrence of Arabia and Star Wars Attack of the Clones, among others.
    Sevilla or Seville is a city I want to visit again. And if you have the chance I highly recommend it. The neighborhoods, narrow streets, the cafes, broad elegant boulevards dotted with palm trees, fragrant orange trees, large ornate fountains, some in the middle of large roundabouts, statues to heros, the markets such a wonderful city. Welcoming and safe. The people and food memorable. The weather great! Except the hot summer months.
    Tomorrow back to sleepy Marbella for my final week in Spain.
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