Aure

When we boarded we were conducted from the cargo bay (where we boarded) to the reception. Only three other passengers joined at Gerenger, all headed to Ålesund, In fact there was some confusion as the officer who conducted us to reception, assumed that we were day passengers, as it is quite uncommon for passengers to embark on a long voyage from Geiranger. As those who know me will attest; if there is a way to be atypical I can usually find it.

Our cabin assignment was the same number that we had had aboard Nordnorge. When we entered we were greeted by a beautiful view of the fjord through our port-hole and were very pleased indeed... that is, until we realised that the ship was conducting a lifeboat drill and that when the boats were hoisted back into their normal positions for storage they sit directly in front of the porthole. Even so, the natural light in the cabin is better than a truly “inside” cabin. In fact, because of a range of factors, most particularly the size of the vessel and the number of boats she must carry (remembering that she is a passenger ferry, not a cruise ship, so not all passengers have cabins) relatively few of the cabins on ships in the Hurtigruten fleet have unobstructed views.

Chris headed off to the information desk and shop, whilst I stood out on the front of the ship to take in more of the fjord. The wind was much calmer than on our voyage down the fjord aboard Nordnorge, so I stood out on the front and took in the sight of sea-birds swooping low across the water (with no need for a jacket or sweater). The many waterfalls were also that much more picturesque on the bright day, the fine spray of droplets emanating from the higher reaches picked out by the sun’s rays.

When we returned to our cabin, we both spent a period ‘checking our eyelids for holes’, as we were concerned that they may have suffered some damage during our walking.

Our second ship the Polarlys, is one of the newest in Hurtigruten‘s fleet, however her interior is rather more austere than that of Nordlys (but at least the power assisted doors still work properly). None the less she is a comfortable vessel, the third Hurtigruten to bear the name (I rather like that the bar on Deck 7 has half models of the previous ships hung on the wall, much like the Enterprise D observation lounge).

In the early evening, around 18:15, we went ashore during the ships brief call at Ålesund (it is called at both before and after the ship visits Geiranger, as it is at the mouth of the series of fjords that lead to the small village). There isn’t really much that can be done in a few minute long visit, but the very ‘Norwegian looking’ buildings make a pleasant sight against the region’s mountains.

After our brief spell ashore Chris, feeling unwell, took some paracetamol and retired to bed where he remained for the duration of the evening (I just occasionally disturbing him by sneaking in for fresh laptop batteries and the like).

As I catch up on a few days worth of blog entries; converting from my rough notes to its ‘proper’ journal form, I’m sat out on the sun deck of M/S Polarlys in a t-shirt, warmed by the bright sunshine that has stayed with us all day. The only irritation is that smoking is permitted anywhere on the deck (and from observation seems worryingly popular here in Norway). The few fluffy white clouds that are around cast stark shadows on the snow covered peaks that surround us. I’m glad that I decided not to bring my camera to the deck; had I done so I would doubtless have been trying to photograph the scenery around me, however capturing the essence of this experience in a photograph would be an exercise in futility. My energies are better directed into this journal, though I fear putting this experience into words is beyond my skill.

Later as the sun descended the snowy peaks were bathed in appealing shades of salmon-pink and orange as we entered the prolonged Norwegian twilight.

Late in the evening we made a brief call at Molde, where we were in dock alongside the Hurtigruten MS Richard With (lower right of the picture); the newest ship of the fleet (named for the company’s founder). Richard With should have left ahead of us, but she appeared to be in some difficulty; her starboard side ‘man overboard’ launch was away and as we left it could be seen in the water near to the stern (possibly inspecting for damage).

As I continued to work on my notes and pictures in the ship’s cafe’ on deck 4, live music from the Deck 7 piano lounge drifted down to me through the ships 4 deck atrium (a neat flourish that MS Nordnorge lacked). The choice of tunes was, on this occasion, altogether more appealing; I noted Aerosmith - ‘Come together’, Cyndy Lawper’s – ‘True Colours’ and latterly Radio Head’s ‘Creep’ as particularly interesting choices. A pleasant rounding out to a very full day.Read more