Around the World

April 2017 - January 2018
A 282-day adventure by Simon Read more
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  • Day 35

    Day 3 - Mendoza

    May 7, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Following our evening on horseback and anticipating sore bottoms we opted for a spa day at Termas Cacheuta.

    To get to the Termas Cacheuta, it's around an hours drive through the middle of the beautiful Andes mountains. The spa is 100% natural thermal water and there are a number of different pools both inside and outside that you can lounge around in. It was a beautifully sunny day but the temperature has dropped a bit so it was easy to lounge around in the bath like pools. A couple of the pools were boiling though and we only managed a few minutes in them! One of the best bits of the spa however were the incredible views!

    A perfect, relaxing day!
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  • Day 36

    Day 4 - Mendoza

    May 8, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today was the day we had both been looking forward to the most, the wine tour (well second for Simon after the BBQ).

    It was an early start with the guide picking us up at 8:30am. After driving around the city picking up everyone else from their various hotels we arrived at our first winery, Don Manuel Villafane just before 10am.

    Don Manual is a relatively small boutique winery but despite this it seemed like there were miles and miles of vines. The grapes are not grown on a canopy like we originally expected and the way my Grandad used to grow them in his greenhouse. Instead they are grown VSP or vertical standing position. This enables them to control the quality a lot more but means you get a much smaller harvest. When we were driving into the winery we noticed there was a rose at the end of every other row of grapes which they explained to us was an alarm system to protect the harvest from bugs. The bugs would always go for the red roses first so they would know if there was a problem before they started attacking the grapes.

    We were then taken into the winery to see the next step in the wine making process. Once the grapes are picked they are crushed and put into steel tanks with yeast. We each got to try some of the Chardonnay they were making in the steel tanks (yes it was only around 10:30am at this point). The wine wasn't finished yet so it was cloudy and tasted a bit strange but it was interesting to try it. The wine stays in the tanks for around 12 months before it is either filtered and bottled or put into French oak barrels to age, depending on what kind of wine they are planning on making. We were shown the cellar with all the oak barrels as well as the bottling and labelling machine. The lady on the bottling machine was sticking the labels on my hand as the machine had broken but this also gives you an idea of how small the winery actually is.

    Then on to the fun bit, the wine tasting which we learned is a lot more in depth than we imagined.

    Step 1 - You tip the glass slightly and hold it over a white piece of paper to see the true colour of the wine. What we noticed is that the longer the wine has aged in the barrels, the deeper the colour.

    Step 2 - Take a sniff and try and find the various scents that the lady was explaining to us.

    Step 3 - Swirl the wine around in the glass and smell it again. This should release further flavours (although it pretty much just smelt of red wine).

    Step 4 - Check the legs. For those uneducated wine folk like ourselves, you swirl the wine in the glass again and watch to see how long the drops of wine take to fall down the side of the glass. The slower they fall the higher the percentage of alcohol in the wine.

    Step 5 - We finally got to actually taste the wine however you had to swill the first mouthful around your mouth to wake up your taste buds, whilst sucking in air (we didn't do that bit for fear of spitting out very expensive wine).

    Step 5 - Take a normal sip of wine and try and work out the various flavours.

    We tried two different wines during the tasting, a Cabernet Frank which was a reserve and a Merlot which was a grand reserve (what kind of reserve it is depends on how long it has been aged for in the barrel and then the bottle afterwards).

    Our second stop was an olive oil farm and factory called Pasrai, where we were shown how they make extra virgin olive oil. After showing us the process we got to taste a number of the olive oils they make:

    - Extra virgin olive oil drizzled on bread

    - Olive oil infused with orange in bread (this was incredible, we are going to have to try and hunt some down when we get home)

    - Olive oil infused with garlic drizzled on bread

    - White bread with green olive paste drizzled with basil olive oil

    - White bread with tomato paste drizzled with oregano olive oil

    - White bread with a sun dried tomato on top (even Si thought this was delicious however he has been suffering from a cold / feather duvet allergy so perhaps he couldn't actually taste it)

    - White bread with black bean paste

    Pasrai also made dried fruits so for dessert we had some delicious sultanas, raisins and chocolate covered raisins (we ate a lot of these).

    We then headed off to our second winery, Luigi Bosca, a second and third generation, family run business. This is considered a medium sized winery so was a lot bigger than Don Manuel Villafane. It's also considered a DOC for Malbec. To put this into context only 4 out of roughly 1000 wineries in Mendoza have this title. It is to do with the way the entire process is controlled to a very high specification.

    We had another tour of the winery and learnt a bit about their history before moving on to some more tasting. We got to try:

    - La Linda, which was a young Chardonnay which smelt very sweet like passion fruit but was incredibly dry. They call this wine 'the liar' (it sounded a lot better in Spanish) because of this.

    - One of their Signature wines which was a Cab Sav mixed with Malbec. Each barrel is used for around 4/5 years before it is sold. It is therefore used around 3/4 times. This wine was made in a French oak barrel that was in its second use. It was then aged for 1 year. They used a 50/50 mix of 2 different types of grapes from different places. The grapes are aged separately and then they make the blend before maturing in the bottle for 6 months.

    - Gala no 1 (a celebration wine that was 85% Malbec and 15% something I can't remember) aged for 14 months in French oak and in the bottle for one year.

    - Our last wine was an incredibly sweet dessert wine. It is so sweet as it is made from a late harvest of grapes. The grapes are German but grown in Mendoza. The wine literally tasted of apple juice.

    Our third and last winery was Alta Vista which is run by two French brothers. The winery was gorgeous and we were shown to tables in the garden where we would have a picnic style lunch which of course was accompanied by more wine.

    We had drunk a lot of wine by this point so we have no idea what any of the wines were called but we do know that they were delicious and our glasses (we had three lined up at one point) were never empty.

    We do however remember the food which was amazing. To start we had 3 delicious empanadas, one vegetable in some yummy spices, a beef and chilli and a blue cheese and leek. This was followed by a really tasty beef and vegetable stew, in which the beef fell apart in your mouth and was cooked in wine of course. For dessert we had a selection of mini puddings: a forest fruits mousse on a shortbread type biscuit, a passion fruit mousse on a shortbread type biscuit, two different chocolates and a very lemony macaroon. It was lovely to eat in the garden in the sunshine.

    After lunch they gave us a tour of the winery which was very interesting. Apparently you can buy their wine in Sainsbury's in the U.K. so next time you're shopping have a look out for a bottle of Alta Vista, you won't be disappointed.

    That brings us to our end of our stay in Mendoza however Val (our Airbnb host) had one job for us, we had to take a selfie with Buffy and Mancini. Whilst the cats were very friendly, they apparently weren't a great fan of selfies as you will see from our picture.
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  • Day 37

    Santiago

    May 9, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Our bus to Santiago was at 9am so we awoke to an early alarm. It's not actually that far from Mendoza so we didn't need an overnight bus. By not far I mean it was only 7 hours which seems like nothing to us now.

    We had been told that the journey to Santiago would be really nice as it takes you through the mountains however we didn't expect it to be as beautiful as it was. For hours all we could see were snow capped mountains, it was amazing. The roads were narrow and wound themselves through the mountains. On some of the downhill bits, we had to take a few deep breaths though as the bus got very close to the edge!

    I mentioned earlier that the journey was only meant to be 7 hours however that does not factor in the ridiculous amount of time it takes you to get across the border. Whilst the border crossing from Brazil to Argentina consisted of a quick stamp in the passport and putting your bags through a scanner that no one was monitoring, took less than 5 minutes, the Chilean border was a whole different kettle of fish.

    First you have to queue up to get your passport stamped and then you have to wait for them to get all the bags off the bus so they can be scanned. There were 2 coaches in front of us and they only do one coach at a time so this took forever. After the luggage in the hold had gone through we were all lined up like cattle with our hand luggage which then also had to go through the scanners. After what felt like an eternity we were allowed back on the bus and sent on our merry way.

    When we eventually arrived in Santiago, and after Simon got called a gringo (followed by something in Spanish which I have a suspicion wasn't very nice) by the luggage man for not tipping (apparently you have to tip the guy who passes you your luggage from the bus, which seems absolutely ludicrous as he literally passes you your bag and therefore no different they getting your shopping out of the boot of your car) we navigated our way to the subway and headed towards our hostel. We are staying in an 8 bed dorm here however the place is huge and the dorm is split into 2 parts so it's really not that bad at all.
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  • Day 38

    Day 2 - Santiago

    May 10, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌫 11 °C

    Whenever we get to a new place, we always try to do a free walking tour. You learn so much about the area from a local perspective and you only have to tip them at the end so it's a really cheap way to see the city. They are also a great way to find your feet and find out about the various things the city has to offer. In light of this we decided to spend our first full day in the city doing the tour.

    It was a 4 hour tour which covered many of the main sights. Our guide Franco was amazing! He knew so much about the city and Chilean history. I feel like I now know way more about the history of Chile than of the UK.

    The tour started at Santiago's main square, Plaza de Armas on which we saw the Cathedral and City Hall. The tour also took us to the Old Congress Building, The Government House, Santiago Stock Exchange, the Opera House, the Bellavista neighbourhood and the Pablo Neruda museum.

    We were also introduced to Santiago's 'cafe con piernas' which means 'coffee with legs'. Now Chile has never been famous for coffee and nobody used to drink the stuff as it tasted terrible. That was until someone opened a coffee with legs. You still get a lousy cup of coffee however it's served to you by a beautiful lady wearing a very short skirt. Some of the cafe's have blacked out windows so they look more like a place you'd find in Amsterdam than a coffee shop! Apparently they tried something similar for women called coffee with three legs but it only lasted a couple of weeks.

    There are a lot of stray dogs in Santiago and South America in general. A local community in Santiago have come together to help these dogs and built them some kennels in the middle of one of the parks so they have somewhere dry to sleep when it rains. They also provide them with food and pay for them to be done to stop them having puppies and increasing the number of dogs on the street. In Santiago people also love to dress their dogs up so pretty much every dog you see has an outfit. We saw a minion in the park as well as a bumble bee outfit on a chihuahua. When they don't want the outfits anymore they donate them to the street dogs. On our tour we met Gary who waits for Franco at a particular place every day when he does his tours. Apparently the day before Gary was wearing a cape!

    After the tour we headed back to our hotel, popping into a few shops Franco had pointed out during the tour on a street called Merced. We also stopped off to grab some bits for dinner and discovered frozen veg which has revolutionised our meals. Pasta and sauce tastes so much better with added onion, peppers, carrot and garlic which comes chopped in a perfect sized frozen bag. It also tastes better and fresher than some of the fresh vegetables we have eaten elsewhere.
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  • Day 39

    Day 3 - Santiago

    May 11, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Today we decided to have a cultural day and visit some of the museums that Franco showed us on the walking tour.

    We started at the Pre-Columbia Art Museum and ended up staying there for hours. Simon and I (especially Simon) sometimes get a bit bored when looking round museums but this one was really interesting. The exhibits were great and we learnt a lot about the Mapuche culture and other indigenous people of Chile.

    After the museum, we grabbed ourselves some rolls and cream cheese (staple traveller lunch) before heading out again for some more sightseeing.

    We strolled over to the Bellavista district which is the hipster area of Santiago that we had briefly visited on our tour, and had a wander around Santa Lucia Hill. At the top there is a castle and when the weather is good it's a great viewpoint to see the city and the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately the weather hasn't been great so we didn't get the picturesque views we had hoped for. There were some pretty sketchy steps up to the look out though (very steep, narrow and slippery). Miraculous I managed to get down in one piece. Simon however slipped down a number of steps on his bottom!

    After the park we headed to the poet, Pablo Neruda's house, La Chascona. Pablo built the house for his secret love Matilde Urrita back in 1953. Pablo named the house after Matilde's crazy red hair (chascona means wild mane of hair in Chilean Spanish).

    When entering his home we were given audio guides which told us about the different rooms as we walked around. Pablo had a very quirky style so the house was fascinating to walk around. He was a great collector so there are loads of random bits and pieces all over the house. Pablo loved the sea, but being unable to swim and therefore never going in it, he based his house on a ship. There is a bar in the house which was from an old French ship as well as a long galley like dining room. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take pictures inside. I think I am going to have to read some of his poetry now!

    After a very busy day of sightseeing and cultural stuff, we grabbed some bits for dinner and headed back to the hostel. Today's culinary delight was spaghetti bolognese accompanied by a £2 bottle of Chilean wine (we love that it is so cheap over here).
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  • Day 40

    Day 4 - Santiago

    May 12, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We are really enjoying slowing down a bit and taking some time to explore the city. It is also helping us cut back on the spending.

    In the morning we visited the Museum of Memory and Human Rights, another recommendation of Franco's. The museum reflects on the human rights abuse that took place under the Chilean dictator Augusto Pinochet between 1973 and 1990. The museum is free to walk around but everything is in Spanish so we decided to pay for the audio guides. We are so glad we did and we learnt so much. It is truly terrifying to learn about the terrible things that were still happening in our lifetimes.

    After a couple of the hours at the museum and perhaps feeling a little emotionally exhausted, we went for a stroll around a nearby park and watched the ducks before heading to the bus station to purchase tickets for the next leg of our adventure.

    We weren't entirely sure where we going to go next when we got to the bus station however after checking out our options and the costs, we opted for San Pedro de Atacama. Unfortunately there were no bed seats left so we have a 24 coach journey to look forward to with semi reclining seats!

    We were pretty hungry by this point so headed back to Plaza de Armas to grab some food for lunch. When on the tour, Franco told us about a traditional Chilean dish, the pino empanada. This is an empanada with meat, onion a boiled egg and an olive so we both decided to have one for lunch. It sounds a bit strange but it actually tasted pretty good. You have to watch out for the olive though as they don't take the stone out.

    We then spent the next hour or so people watching in Plaza de Armas. There is so much going on, it can keep you entertained for hours.
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  • Day 41

    Valparaiso

    May 13, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We decided to stay a couple extra nights in Santiago mainly due to the rain stopping us from doing a couple of the things we wanted to do. One of those things was a day trip to Valparaiso (or Valpo as the locals call it), a town which was around two hours by coach and had another free walking tour. It's often nice to do the earlier tour to give you ideas on things to do so we aimed to hit the 10am tour.

    We set our alarms super early and crept out as quietly as we could, hitting breakfast shortly after it opened (7am) and were on our way via the subway to the bus station. We bought our tickets and boarded the bus leaving at 8.05 which in theory (the bus taking 1hr 30) should have given us plenty of time. If there's one thing you should NEVER take as golden it's bus duration!! We're not entirely sure why the bus took so long as we were both snoring shortly after departure but when we woke up pulling into the station it was 9.57am. Now if previous tours and GPS were anything to go by this tour wouldn't start until at least 10.10am and it was not going to take 34 minutes to walk there. So we did what any other ambitious Brits would do and headed for the meeting point.

    As we got closer to the centre we could hear a racket echoing through the streets. This racket turned out to be hundreds of school kids in various marching bands, marching through the streets. Because of this various roads were closed to cars so trying to dodge the crowds of parents following their less than talented kids meant we inevitably missed the 10am tour. We later learnt that they were practicing for a big celebration which involved the Navy the following weekend. Valpo has a large port so this is apparently a pretty big deal!

    As the walking tour was going to line up the activities for the rest of the day I hadn't really bothered to research anything else to do around Valpo so Blake suggested we do what any good tourist should do and headed to the nearest Starbucks for coffee and wifi. The coffee you get for breakfast in the hostels is pretty terrible so having a Starbucks was a rare treat!! Unfortunately the Starbucks was in a square which was the central meeting point for these marching bands. They entered on one side, did a few laps then left on the opposite side. Luckily by that point it was the adults walking through so at least everything was in time but still enough to give you a headache.

    We had our coffee and logged onto the wifi and decided we'd walk up into the hillside and explore the colourful town that was Valparaiso. Almost every other building has a mural of some sort painted on it and those buildings that didn't were often painted a bright colour. We slowly headed towards a look out nearer the top of the hill which gave us an incredible view. A little further on and we arrived at Pablo Neruda's Valpo house (the poet who's house we looked around in Santiago). On the way back down the hill we decided to stop on a little square to make some sandwiches. Cream cheese in brown rolls topped up with spicy beef crisps were today's filling of choice!

    After a slow walk down the hill it was almost time to join the tour so we just waited around by the meeting point. The marching bands were still playing at this point, 5 hours after we arrived! Our tour guide Jorge arrived and took us up again into the hillside, this time venturing to the opposite side with more viewpoints and murals. At the beginning of the tour we got to a point where there was a giant slide / slider for the Bristolians. We joked saying we wanted to go down it but then it actually became part of the tour and the whole group went down. The bottom of the slide was in a small square where 4 or more dogs recognised our guide. I think Jorge was the pied piper of dogs as these four legged friends stayed with us for the whole 4 hour tour.

    When passing some of the murals we learnt that there were 3 occasions when one could be painted. The first being your house, your walls. The second for buildings not belonging to you, then permission from the owner was needed. And the third was for city owned buildings, for these you needed to submit a sketch along with a proposal explaining the story behind it. Because of this, many of the murals tell stories of Chilean history and its people. There was a fourth, but this involved the middle of the night with dark clothes and a pair of good shoes in case you have to run!

    Towards the end of the tour we stopped at an empanada shop. These from what were described were no normal empanadas either. We had a menu of 80 fillings to choose from and each was individually handmade to order before being deep fried (normal ones are baked like pasties). They were DELICIOUS!! I went for chorizo, onion, tomato and cheese and Blake opted for cheese, spinach, nuts and cream.

    After the tour finished we were all walked out so we headed back to the bus station and made our way back to the hostel for some well needed feet up time! I can tell you that the marching bands were also still going at this point.
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  • Day 42

    Day 5 - Santiago

    May 14, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    It was our last day in Santiago and the weather was a bit pants so we decided to have a lazy day. Simon wanted to try and find a new blade for his razor as he managed to break it the second time he used it, so we headed over to the mall. It was however a very unsuccessful trip and we returned empty handed. Simon is going to attempt to find a barbers in San Pedro but failing that he will be going for the traditional traveller look!

    After the mall we grabbed some bits for lunch as well as some supplies for our 24 hour bus journey and then pottered around the hostel.

    Around 4pm the rain stopped and the sun came out so we ventured out to the Bellavista neighbourhood to Cerro San Cristóbal (San Cristóbal Hill). At the top there is a 22m statue of the Virgin Mary but what you really go up there for is the view out over the city. We had been warned by various people that it wasn't really worth it if the weather is bad as you won't be able to see anything. But despite the usual fog that covers Santiago, the sky was relatively clear so we figured it was worth a shot. For just over £3 each you can get the funicular up and back which we opted for over the 45 minute walk (I think Simon's words were 'I'm not going if you make me walk up'. It is also quite fun to get the funicular.

    It turns out that we timed our visit perfectly. By the time we got up there the sun was setting and we had the most incredible views out over Santiago and the mountains.

    We are both big fans of Santiago!
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  • Day 44

    San Pedro de Atacama

    May 16, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Now we never expected 24 hours on a bus to be fun and I can assure you it wasn't! Turbus, the company we travelled with do not treat you as well as we have recently become accustomed too. They had run out of the reclined seats so we had to go for semi reclined which wasn't the end of the world however there isn't a lot of space between you and the seat in front of you so it was a little bit claustrophobic! Especially as you have to keep your bag and things under your feet for fear of being robbed which doesn't help with the space problem.

    I can't say you don't get fed as that wouldn't be true but you don't get much at all. Around 11:30am we were given a small carton of juice and a biscuit. We didn't get fed again until 9:30pm when they gave us another small carton of juice and a ham and cheese sandwich! Luckily we had planned for such eventualities and had been rationing our supplies throughout the journey. They do however stop occasionally and let some random get on the bus with cakes, sandwiches or other random items for sale.

    Around 10pm, the bus driver came onto the bus and said something in Spanish. Pretty much everyone got up and got off the bus. We were at a bus station though so just figured that this was their stop until we looked around and realised that only the English speaking travellers were left on the bus. It was at that moment we realised that we had missed something important. Shortly after, the driver got back on and said in perfect English and in the style of Arnie 'get off the bus'. Stupid gringos! Turns out they needed to refuel so we had to get off.

    We eventually made it to San Pedro around 10am the following day. The views towards the end of the journey were incredible but it made you realise we are literally in the middle of the desert in the arse end of nowhere. The bus station is just a shelter with a few seats in and everywhere seems so baron I half expected to see some tumbleweed rolling down the street.

    We somehow managed to walk straight past our hostel so it took us a lot longer than it should have done to get there! As it was early, we weren't able to check in yet so we wandered across to the main street in search of some food and civilisation.

    After a hearty breakfast and some crappy Nescafé coffee we headed back to or hostel to check in. We are staying in a 4 bed dorm which is nice as they are all single beds and is so much better than sleeping in a bunk bed!

    We found another free walking tour on the history of San Pedro so did that in the afternoon. A couple of interesting facts for you all:

    All of the houses in San Pedro are made from adobe.

    Dancing is prohibited and pubs / restaurants can get fined if the police catch people dancing in them - crazy!
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  • Day 45

    Day 2 - San Pedro de Atacama

    May 17, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We awoke to the bluest sky I think we have ever seen. There wasn't a single cloud in the sky.

    For breakfast the lady that owns the hostel made us fresh scrambled eggs which were delicious. We absolutely love this hostel (Casa de Mathilde). It's really chilled and our roommates have been great.

    After breakfast we set off on a 3km walk to Pukará de Quito, the ruins of a 12th century fort. Pretty much the whole way there we were accompanied by 2 dogs which were very sweet. When we arrived we hiked to the top and you could see down over San Pedro which was great. It also once again reinforced how small this place is. On our way back, we stopped in the main street and mooched around the shops.

    Despite its size, San Pedro is full of tour companies. It makes choosing a company to do your tours with extremely difficult. We have decided to do the Salt Flats tour from here and then finish in Uyuni, Bolivia. It's a little more expensive than booking it in Uyuni but if you factor in the bus that you would have to get to Uyuni anyway it works out pretty much the same. Simons good friend David who has been amazing at giving us tips as him and his girlfriend Julia have done pretty much the same trip but 3 months ahead of us, also warned us that the bus journey was horrible and that he had to pee so bad he nearly peed on himself as they hardly let you off the bus. Needless to say we didn't really fancy that so after some trip advisor research we settled on Lithium and booked all of our tours with them.

    Craving some home comforts, we attempted to make baked beans and mash for dinner. We were shocked when what we created was actually edible and resembled baked beans. Simon also found giant chicken nuggets in one of the mini-markets. I think the other British people in the hostel were secretly jealous of our 6 year olds dinner!
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